Bypassing Door Latches ("Loiding")

Today, we quickly run-through some of the most common ways to bypass spring latches.

[@Cole.Varial]

Locked myself out of my room. This video saved me. I was able to use a can opener as a prybar to wedge the handle further away from the door frame, which extended the plunger enough to release the latch and allowed me to slip a wire in to actuate the latch.

[@ContingencyLabs]

You discovered an advanced technique! We usually use air bags but it's the same basic idea: separate the dead latch plunger from the strike plate just enough to disable it. So congrats on your excellent mechanical reasoning! I'm glad to have gotten you started but it's sounds like you saved yourself.

[@tehshittiestlogin]

Wonderfully explained, thanks for the video

[@ismistarick70]

Rainy intro got me good, as it is storming in Louisiana at the time of writing this.

[@ContingencyLabs]

That was my plan all along!

[@nitenite8946]

Another thing to keep in mind: If the fitting of the door is off even a little, you can walk the door a little and get the plunger to fail. Most people don't even know what a dead latch plunger is in the first place, but even those aware of these things still get it wrong quite a bit. I'll try and post a video at some point to demonstrate. For now, take a like and a sub.

[@ContingencyLabs]

Definitely. It's fun when you find the rare door that is sloppy enough that an airbag can be used to achieve this separation. I've always wanted to use a hydraulic spreader for this application but have yet to find a client who is comfortable with the potential damage that method can theoretically cause.

[@justinsigmund6200]

Great videos man. My favorite tool to use is basically a traveler's hook, however I get the 90° pick out of a tool kit and use that. It's a bit longer and a bit thinner and works great. Plus it's cheaper too. Get a set from harbor freight for $3

[@ContingencyLabs]

Thanks, man. Yeah, I own a few traveler hook-style tools but, for some reason, I hardly ever use them. I guess I feel like I can explain-away some plastic sheets and copper wire better than an unusual tool, if searched. Or maybe it's just that my hooks are pretty sharp and stab me, if, if I don't carry them off-body. Regardless, I'm not bashing the traveler hook at all--it just isn't something I use much.

[@justinsigmund6200]

@@ContingencyLabs I got ya. I work industrial maintenance so I have a excuse to have odd end things on my person.

[@kdarban]

I remember figuring out these techniques on my own when I was 12 just from curiosity 👍

[@ContingencyLabs]

Good for you! This is probably the most universally known bypass method but many don't understand the "why" behind this method. Understanding the "why" is essential to consistent application of this method.

[@michaelkulman7095]

If door is tight and plate good, depressing the plunger as designed, then would these attacks fail? It seems like they would...

[@ContingencyLabs]

That's correct. These attacks exploit a common vulnerability that's caused by incorrect installation.

[@michaelkulman7095]

@@ContingencyLabs Thanks for the reply. I suppose an air bladder or pry tool could pry just enough to lessen the amount the pin is being depressed to allow shimming so that may be a vulnerability with the dead latch over the deadbolt I suppose. Still with proper tight heavy construction, possibly commercial, possibly metal door and jamb that might not be so easy... but easier than prying past a one inch deadbolt I suppose. It sort of depends on how far the pin needs to be depressed to lock the latch in place and make it dead... Still, properly installed a dead latch is pretty secure, especially with metal door and jamb...or at least reinforced jamb with metal plate... Comments?

[@ContingencyLabs]

Yes, you have the right idea. Air bags and/or pry tools can help defeat a dead latch plunger. It's just highly specific to the individual door. The door frame and actual door's composition can play a factor, yes. Would I call it "secure"? No but that's such a relative description. I would never trust an automatic latch, alone. Deadbolts are preferable.

[@michaelkulman7095]

@@ContingencyLabs I guess my point is, it's more secure than people think it is with a proper install and if install is such that an airbag or pry tool don't easily defeat the pin and allow for shimming, it's pretty good in situations where there is only one door hole now and another isn't wished. And yes, "secure" is a loaded word that can only be relative to time, tools, knowledge, skill, noise and degree of brute force used ... In some situations I don't know that you gain much by adding a deadbolt, I guess that's my point that some people don't get, not you personally, just people in general... I'm not that motivated to add a deadbolt if needed conditions are met, I just don't see much advantage in general, in some situations...

[@Nckolas20]

Another trick to defeat latch guards. Having a large card thin piece of plastic cut into an L shape then cut the long end into a tapered point. Take the long end pointed down, slip between the door and frame down behind the guard and the tapered end will shove the latch open.

[@ContingencyLabs]

That can be a handy way to defeat latch guards with trash you find near the target door (even using heavy cardboard, for some industrial doors--they are THAT insecure). However, I don't think of this as a very practical approach in terms of a pre-fabricated tool to carry on one's person simply because the material can loose strength by folding. That's why I go with insulated wire--it's cheap, easy to find, easy to conceal and deploy, more universal in application.

[@JohnSmith-wth]

My closet door wouldn't open when I was a kid and we used a butter knife to open it like that.

[@ContingencyLabs]

Yep, its a classic maneuver. And it's usually the first/only bypass that folks learn. But it's good to understand the mechanism to expand it's usefulness to more real-world applications.

[@franciscodiez5907]

with a grade 2 knob it would be more difficult to open with that technique due to the additional plate on the latch

[@ContingencyLabs]

I don't believe that the ANSI grade of this hardware is applicable to this situation, unless you're referring to a completely different ANSI standard than those usually used to describe the quality of locks. ANSI, as an organization, makes my eyes glaze over so maybe there's something more relevant out there...who knows? Anyway, the issue is that the strike plate is installed incorrectly. I'm not aware of any additional plate that's defined by an ANSI standard but please educate me if I'm wrong--I'm completely blanking. But, regardless of all that, these are real world examples--mostly in the facilities of a company with a decent security budget. This level of vulnerability is out there and it's common. Therefore, basic loiding is still a valid method for nondestructive entry.

[@franciscodiez5907]

@@ContingencyLabs I recently installed a knob that, according to the label, meets ANSI grade 2 standards. That knob brought an additional plate that is installed on top of the latch that make more difficult to insert objects through the latch avoiding forcing entry.

[@ContingencyLabs]

Oh I see whats happening. The lock meets Grade 2 standards and also has this extra feature. But that extra feature is not a defining part of the ANSI standard. Anyway, now that we got that figured out, can you tell me the model of the hardware? I'd like to see.

[@franciscodiez5907]

@@ContingencyLabs Of Course, Toledo Platinum Series Navarra Stainless steel grade 2 Keyed door Lock Set

[@ContingencyLabs]

Thanks for providing that. I'm still not seeing anything in the manufacturer images that would prevent loiding. If you ever decide to do a video or something along those lines, let me know.

[@ashleymarie7452]

What guage copper wire was that? Thanks!

[@ContingencyLabs]

I don't recall the gauge I used but the exact gauge is unimportant. All you need is a wire that is (1) strong enough to handle the force of restraining the latch and (2) stiff enough to maintain its shape so that the leading end can be easily retrieved after passing behind the latch.

[@ashleymarie7452]

@@ContingencyLabs I went to Home Depot and got three feet worth of the heaviest solid copper wire they had. It should work great. Thanks!

[@maxames6686]

can't tell weather he is being funny or not..

[@ContingencyLabs]

Regarding what?