Contouring for Lowered Necklines & Cutaway Armholes (Part 1: Variations on a Silhouette)

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Here is a list to the Videos in this series (Variations on a Silhouette) Only 4 videos so far: (1) Contouring This video (2) Empire Bodice kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIeth6V8o66mqbs (3) A-line Skirt kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4qnhIl_frtkobc (4) 6 Panel Skirt kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIOoXnqur9CnnLs

[@kajalbathija4608]

Beautifully explained❤

[@aimster2084]

THANK YOU, I've never understood how to do the neckline contours. You're really good at teaching this.

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Thanks Amelia.

[@aimster2084]

@@Dresspatternmaking You're very welcome. I've been working on making blocks using your videos but I ran out of supplies. I will finish the pants block next. Thank you again *SO MUCH* for the fantastic tutorials. I love all the math involved.

[@foggylog19]

Thank you, I have only found your website and here tonight, and already learnt so much, I know I will forget, but excited to learn more details, and makes some stuff others have said make sense. I love you teaching the why, because that's how my brain works, when I want to know something.

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Welcome!

[@ramonapereira128]

Thank you teacher for this valuable video tutorial. Hope to see more video tutorials. 🌸🌸🌸🌺🌺🌺🌺🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌷🌷🌷🌷🌷🌷

[@larkkay]

I have never subscribed so fast... Brilliant.

[@Ninjozata]

I'm so grateful that you share your knowledge with us ♡ Thank-you so so much

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Thank you Rae for taking the time to show your appreciation.

[@hira6718]

You're the best 💗 I'm always looking forward to seeing more videos from you addressing problems that are usually ignored in classes , assuming everyone has a standard figure. My best wishes to you.

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Hello Hira, thank you for your kind words. I've just finished my next video (very late, but I'm really hoping to get them out on a regular basis after this one). I just have to watch it through once more to check for mistakes before I upload it to KZbin. But it is extremely (!!!) stormy here tonight where I live. I'm half expecting a blackout (that would be my luck!). If the power goes out then the video won't be uploaded until tomorrow.

Your explanation is the best I have found, thank you for this💐

[@Dresspatternmaking]

You're very welcome!

[@MariaPinto-pf5cc]

tks

[@jenniferclifford4669]

Wow thank you, I'd never heard of contour darts until yesterday and was feeling really frustated with gaping necklines on an otherwise well fitting block. What a great resource your videos are. I've just bought your bodice pdf.

[@Dresspatternmaking]

I learned about Contouring through my studies at TAFE, but the beginning I just kept using the Standard amounts for myself and could not understand why I still kept getting such a lot of gaping. It wasn't until I got the body cast made of myself that realized that I needed a lot more contouring and could finally make dresses and tops with lowered necklines and cutaway armholes that fit perfectly!

[@angelafindlay7123]

Love your effective teachering i learnt so much in a few hours amazing learning ..thank you for being so professional ...

[@zakiurrehmaan2202]

This is the master class of contouring 👏

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Thank you.

[@phyllisgordon6577]

You are a great teacher.

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Glad you think so!

[@cecileleclerc11]

This is exactly what I needed! Currently working on my bodice moulage !

[@foggylog19]

What is a moulage, I know she mentioned it, but I haven't heard the term before

[@hira6718]

Hi Maria, please consider doing a video on the different types of collars. Especially the shirt and coat collars. I enjoy your patternmaking instructions because they make sense and not just a set of calculations and assumptions.

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Hello Hira(?) I have been focusing on built up necklines and collars recently, but it will probably be a while before I get to writing instructions for them. There is so much that I could do but I am limited in my time given the amount of work it takes for me to create a video. I have decided that I am going to focus on Pattern Videos for the first half of this year (patterns from beginning to end). First I will be doing dress patterns, each with different skirts and/or sleeves, etc. The last couple will include (a) a built-up neckline (my Willow Dress), and (b) a dress with a collar (convertible/camp collar). After that I want to do a couple of jacket patterns - one with a tailor collar, and then a shirt pattern. So.... at this point it's not likely that I will do a video just on collars, it will be along the lines of doing one collar in a pattern where I have used it. But collars are what I've been working on lately. I've done quite a bit of testing to figure out why I'm having the issues that I'm having. I have learned a lot and will eventually pass on that information. (In the past I avoided high close necklines with collars (compared to, say, a tailor collar which sits away from the neck) because I just couldn't figure out why they always seemed to feel too tight. I always ended up lowering the front neckline and/or opening up the whole neckline. That created other problems and I also didn't end up with a high close neckline. I have finally found out that a bottle-neck adjustment fixed the problem......)

[@hira6718]

So ture, finding comfort and a good fit is so rare but I'm glad that I found your channel. I feel like your videos have answers to my questions that books don't answer. Looking forward to your upcoming series. Sending love and best wishes ❤

[@kajalbathija4608]

Mam pls also make a video on one shoulder counturing

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Here is a list to the Videos in this series (Variations on a Silhouette) Only 4 videos so far: Contouring kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3bWgKSYjJyiq68 Empire Bodice kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIeth6V8o66mqbs A-line Skirt kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4qnhIl_frtkobc 6 Panel Skirt kzbin.info/www/bejne/jIOoXnqur9CnnLs

[@nubiasamuel2114]

Thanks

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Welcome

[@hannabusse8137]

Question: What do I do if my bust mound circle goes off of my pattern block at the center front? I have a large bust-waist difference, and it's been impossible to draft anything with triangles or cups in the bodice, like a halter-style dress, for example.

[@civanguloglu9183]

Hello, is there a base pattern for the wedding dress and why do we use the prince on the shoulder, thank you.

[@zakiurrehmaan2202]

How to do contouring of back bodice for deepest neckline?

[@mistihamon9686]

Confirming, when measuring the bust radius, this follows the tissue (use a flexible/fabric tape) and not a straight measurement (use a rigid ruler)?

[@Dresspatternmaking]

When measuring on your body, then yes, you use a tape measure from the Bust Apex (basically the nipple), following the curve to where the breast tissue meets the chest wall. (This measurement can change depending on the bra you have on).

[@joanamoreira491]

Hi Maria! I was wondering, since the bodice block is made with the upper bust measure, if I use the moulage as my base, part of the gaping that happends above the bust is already covered, right? I usually use the moulage as my base as I prefer to add ease after depeding on the style I'm drafting!

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Hello Joana, I can't stress enough that you do need wearing ease when drafting clothes with woven fabric. Drafting patterns using your moulage is not going to get you a good result. If you think the ease that I've suggested is too much then reduce it, but you really need some wearing ease included in the block that you use to draft your patterns. DESIGN EASE is added depending on the style of garment, but WEARING EASE should be included in your block. The gaping that occurs has nothing to do with using the Moulage or using the Block - it is usually the result of the wrong angle of the side seam - i.e. a side seam drafted for a smaller bust cup than the person who is wearing the garment. I explain and show that that in my Bodice Block Essential videos - Patternmaking Bust Cups vs Bra Bust Cups. That gaping is more often than not a 'trapped' bit of fabric due to the wrong side seam angle.

[@djsiminoff]

I’d love to draft the skirt portion of the dress you’re wearing at 8:40, the one with the mega flounce but I can’t find info on it in your skirt videos. Can you let me know more details about it?

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Hi there, sorry but I haven't posted any new content for about a year now. I was going to cover that dress in the final 'Variations' video. I am, just this week, starting on my next video (the first dress pattern), but I won't be getting to that skirt/dress for a few months yet....

[@electrictofumuffins6384]

What do you do with the back? What do you cut out and what do you do with the dart?

[@Dresspatternmaking]

The contouring that relates to the front is essential for avoiding gaping in the neckline. Contouring as it relates to the back is limited to reducing ease to get a CLOSE fit. What you do with the Bodice Back depends on the pattern you are drafting and your preference. The 'standard contouring' amounts I show are for reference. If you want an Empire Line pattern, then you would cut off the bottom portion (making sure that the side seams match the front). If you want a closer fit in the back, you would use the bigger and higher dart that is shown in the directions. However, you don't have to use what is shown. The back pattern will have to match the front at the side seams and the shoulder, but what you do otherwise if up to you. I show the 'Standard Contouring' amounts and standard contouring shape for the Bodice Back for reference only. (I.e. marking the Empire Line and increasing the dart width and height for a close fit). However, you do not need to use them if they aren't relevant to the pattern you are drafting.

[@sherinyousef1512]

جيد نريد المزيد

[@Dresspatternmaking]

The translation said you wanted more? I haven't had time this last year but hope to start posting again soon.

[@sherinyousef1512]

تدرج باترون الاعراس

[@Dresspatternmaking]

Unsure of the meaning of this comment....