Contractor Table Saw Modifications

Contractor Table Saw Modifications.

[@TKevinBlanc]

I'm looking for a used saw. I don't have a lot of space, either. Watching this video just made me change my mind of the fence/fence rail. Thanks for posting it.

[@ghostses]

+Kevin Blanc No problem Kevin! Space is a huge problem of mine as well. This mod allows for a smaller storage footprint. A saw like this, in my area, can be had for $1-200 all day long. Good luck, G.

[@LyleAshbaugh]

I’ve been looking for ways to upgrade my ‘60s craftsman, but most videos are way over-engineered for my needs. What simple effective way to upgrade it. I especially like the fence rail using angle iron.

[@ghostses]

Thanks Lyle. Glad you like it. The fence rail using angle iron was factory on this saw, I just cut it so I could fold down the wings. Good luck with yours, G.

[@joer5627]

I have my Grandads ‘64 craftsman. Link belt and 2 new pulleys helped a lot. Several newly made inserts and I’m good to go. An interesting idea about the hinges. Thank you for the video

[@ghostses]

That's cool Joe. Hope it serves you well. The hinges work great for storage. Take care, G.

[@28yogy4todd]

I wonder how many of these saws Sears, Roebuck and Co. produced over the years? I finally scored one on an online auction company that was doing an estate auction off site of the normal location. I took a chance and bid on it only looking at the pictures and “hoping” winning the high bid. I got lucky. The saw was not used very much, and being able to down load and print an owners manual was very helpful. I was able to sand off some rust on the top and some other detachable parts to make it more attractive. I really like this saw being it is 33+ years old. Thanks for the video.

[@ghostses]

TONS Bryan! They're great saws in my opinion. I have some videos posted on Boeshield Rust Free. If you still have some rust to deal with, check them out. It's a great product. Good luck, G.

[@northwoodshermit6036]

I have this saw--purchased it so long ago I can't remember! Great saw. Cast Iron! yes!!!

[@ghostses]

I agree. Take care, G.

[@dessertman1181]

Enjoying viewing again! Was curious to know if there is a screw or setting/adjustment to get the table tilt wheel out to at least 90 degrees? I am trying to square my blade to the table top/deck .I have a Craftsman 113.298842 I am almost at 90 degrees just need to squeeze 1 more degree out of the crank. Any advise or direction would be greatly appreciated. All other set up factors are spot on.... Than you again

[@ghostses]

Dessert Man That's cool! On the top of the table there are two holes near the throat plate- one on the left and one on the right of the blade- probably both packed with sawdust. These two holes are for adjusting the stops at 90 and 45. The one on the left should be for 90 and the right for 45. There is a setscrew in each hole you can play with to get it dead on. Back away from the stop, turn it a little, then put it back and test. That should do it! Let me know how it turns out. G.

[@fisharmor]

The link belt is apparently available at Harbor Freight. I hear that it does more to reduce vibration than just about anything. Great video, thanks for the tips!

[@ghostses]

Yes they are! I've had many folks comment on the HF belts in the positive. I've not used one yet, but will at my next need. It would be nice if they would also carry 3L belting for drill presses, etc. They do eliminate most vibration for sure and I use them on all my tools. Glad you liked the video. Take care, G.

[@jeffersonlink9882]

thank you for the video. was looking for other improvements for my old saw and ran upon this really smart improvement. I need space as well. working out of a two car garage. looks like im going to need to have bolts made..

[@ghostses]

No problem Jefferson! You might be able to find some countersinking bolts that might work. Or use standard bolts like I did and go after them with a bench grinder. I'm sure you can figure something out. Good luck, G.

[@DavidRFortney]

I used standard Phillips bolts and then, once installed, I hand filed the heads down. My hinges have a small gap too that helps by allowing a bit of space for the remaining heads.

[@BradsWorkbench]

This was exactly what I needed to see. Since the video have you had any issues with those hinges handling the weight? Also I have an issues when I go to clamp my fence down, it just don’t clamp as tight as it should. Any suggestions? It’s the same one as you have

[@ghostses]

No problems at all with the hinges. Look under the handle on the fence and you should see a threaded rod with a nut on it. The nut has two slots- one on each side of the rod. You need to tighten this nut. I think it turns in 1/2 turn increments. You can either make a tool to span the rod, or use a thick bladed driver on one side. I just use a driver. That adjustment should tighten up the fence locking mechanism. You might need to remove the fence to adjust- can't remember. Good luck, G.

[@BradsWorkbench]

ghostses thank you so much. I was thinking that was it but then since it was a normal looking nut I was afraid to mess something up lol

[@ghostses]

No problem! Glad you help. Take care, G.

[@blmeflmm66]

I know this is an old vid, but new to me. I've been digging your videos. You and I would get along famously. Good stuff. You mentioned that you can't get around the gap between the original fence and table. This is adjusted by raising/lowering the rails with the slop in the bolt holes. I got mine used and it was 1/8 high at the back and scraping at the front. Their now both dialed in at just under a 1/32 and it is surprisingly smooth after adjusting the fence spring and lubing the roller.and rails with dry wax spray. While I love your fold down wings, that just seems like an incredible amount of force concentrated on one bolt in the center of a cast web even under just its own weight. Crack city if you forget and lean some weight on extreme end of it. If there's only an inch or so difference in the elevation of the bolt and hinge pins, any force applied to the edge of the 12"? wing is 12 times that on that bolt and casting. It may work fine forever, but I'll be adding removable struts for additional support if/when I steal this great idea, which it is, of course. I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on this if you get a chance. Not trying to be a troll, just throwing in my concern. Keep up the good work.

[@ghostses]

Thanks man! The video might be old, but is still relevant in my opinion. You are correct about lowering the rails to close the gap to the table. When I got the saw, and changed the mdf on the fence, I guess I didn't pay attention as to why the gap was so big. I used to use two bolts in the center of the wings, but guess I got lazy and started only using one. It doesn't seem to be a problem, but the casting could crack. I think I'll go back to two for a better measure. Struts are a good ideal. Being constructive is not trolling in my book. Take care, G.

[@RadicalRC]

I have the same saw and wheel set. Been thinking of going through it for a clean up and tune up. Love your idea with the hinges.

[@ghostses]

That's cool. I really like the saw. It does take some effort to get everything dialed in, but it's well worth it. It's got plenty of power for me and it's super quiet and smooth running. The hinges work great as well. It was a pain to knock it down for storage and set everything back up for use before adding them. Glad you like them. Good luck, G.

[@perillodanisi2505]

Great jobs. Well explained.

[@ghostses]

Thanks, G.

[@dessertman1181]

Ghostses..... wall done! What type of saw/blade did you use to cut through the wings? Also was it difficult to drill through the wings to install the hinges? Thank you for your feedback and again great review and modifications!

[@ghostses]

Dessert Man Thanks! I didn't saw through the wings, only the angle iron that the fence rides on. For that, I used a horizontal band saw but a handheld hacksaw could be used. The wings already had holes where they're attached to the main table. I used these holes to bolt on the hinges. I did drill one hole in the wing to mount the rail back on. I used a punch to mark the hole then drilled a small pilot hole. Then drilled it out to size. Since mine are cast iron, no lubricant was used when drilling. Hope this helps, G.

[@GamingJeffro]

Hello. I picked up this saw last night from a guy on craigslist. The saw is in damn near new condition, but for some reason i cannot get the front side of the fence to slide like that. I really have to put force on it to get it to move. Its not dragging on the surface.

[@ghostses]

+jeffro1265 Jeff, If you have the exact fence I have- this is what I would do. I'm providing a link so you can refer to what I'm talking about. As I know it, there are two adjustments that could cause your problem. Start by releasing the lever and then loosen the tension adjusting nut (part 18 in the diagram) to see if that frees it up. If so, tighten it up just enough so the fence clamps tightly. If that wasn't the problem, leave the nut loose, then remove the fence and turn it over. Loosen the screw(s) holding part 13 and move it a "little" to the back end of the fence and tighten it back down. You may have to try a few times to get it just right. It it moves freely now, go back and adjust the tension nut so the fence holds tightly when clamped. Hope this helps! Let me know how you make out. Good luck, G. www.searspartsdirect.com/model-part/113241691/0247/0744600/00012438/00003.html

[@JasonMichaelKotarski]

Your "gull wings" are brilliant, thanks! I was hoping to see the alignment for the fence rail as my saws previous took them off to save room.

[@ghostses]

Thanks! Once you get the rails installed, leave them a little loose so you can tap them up or down with a hammer. Then move the fence to the right side at the end of the table and slightly lock it down. Tap the front and back rail up, or down, to set a small gap under the fence that's equal from front to back. Then move the fence to the left side and do the same thing. Check, check, then tighten the fence rail bolts down. I think that is what you were asking about. Good luck, G.

[@philipshields1183]

Does it matter if you cut the angle rail on the blade side or outside of wing side? I was thinking of new angle and have no gap for the fence to slide seamlessly....or would up/down adjustability for a flush top be better with a gap?

[@ghostses]

I don't really understand your questions Phillip. Perhaps you can frame them differently so I might be able to better answer. Take care, G.

[@Danman1972]

After many years.... how are the wings? Still holding up and level? I have same saw and the same problem!

[@ghostses]

Still working Great Danny. No problems at all. Good luck, G.

[@wadeignacio7773]

Any videos on how you actually put the holes in the saw whit those hinges did you have to adjust any other holes because of the thicknessof the hinge

[@ghostses]

Wade, I used the existing holes to mount the hinges. I believe there was a hole or two I drilled for the rails to make this work. It should be noted in the video. Good luck, G.

[@cathygriffee1724]

Thanks for the video and confidence to make modifications. Can you tell me if the tape measure is accurate past the rail cut that you made? It would seem that with the addition of the hinge that if would be off. Thanks

[@ghostses]

Thanks Cathy. I will start by saying that I never use the tape on this saw. And to add to that, since my fence has a 3/4" face on it- the rule was off by that much to start with. I measure from the fence to the blade for my cuts using a rule or tape measure. But, even if the rail is cut, there should be some lateral movement on them (You now have two) to account for the hinges and the cut itself. The rail should have slots to allow to dial it in. In addition to that, there should be a window pointer on the fence itself that can also be adjusted somewhat. Another option could be to cut the rails, then apply a new stick on scale across the gap, then cut the scale at the gap. A quick search should reveal the scales. Long winded and not too though out- but hope it helps nonetheless. Good luck, G.

[@cathygriffee1724]

ghostses. Thanks, your response confirms what I was thinking! C

[@ghostses]

No problem C, G.

[@YknotLearnall]

I realize this is an old video but thought I'd chime in after listening to what you were saying about the gap on the factory fence being too large. In a nutshell they can be adjusted. In fact they tell how to adjust/ set the gap as well as tension in the owner's manual. At least in mine which has the same top and fence as yours. Too much to explain on how to set the fence as there's a bit to it. But once adjusted it should ride around 1/32nd above the table. Or an 8 layer newspaper page thickness which is how you set it in part. Anyway, hope that helps if you still have it or someone else that may have the same. cheers...

[@ghostses]

Very helpful Chase! I didn't/don't have the manual for this saw so I guess I was speculating why my friend did what he did. Good to know there is a procedure to reduce the gap. I'm sure it will benefit others so thanks for chiming in. Take care, G.

[@MarcoACasco]

Some minds are really gifted .!!!!!

[@ghostses]

Don't know who your talking about Marco...lol. Take care, G.

[@alreadyfalling]

after you added the auxiliary fence how did you align it with the measuring tape? i added 3/4 mdf version similar to this and there is no where near enough room to move clear plastic measuring piece over.

[@ghostses]

Matt, I don't use the tape on mine. I measure directly from the blade to the fence with a scale. You can get a new adhesive backed scale and position it so the plastic viewer is within it's range. Take care, G.

[@darrelduke]

i have the same saw and the fence is adequate but, could use improvement. you mentioned mdf in the fence mod, it looks like polycarbonate [cutting board material]. is it completely made of mdf? thanks and great vid.

[@ghostses]

Thanks! It is an mdf fence cover that I painted white. That might explain why it looks like it's plastic. I did add "slick strips" to the face though. I picked it up at Woodcraft. Good luck, G.

[@Creator_Nater]

Great innovation! Thank you for sharing

[@ghostses]

Nathanfenn1 Thanks! I'm glad you liked it. Good luck, G.

[@mrgroovestring]

Good video, I have a Model 113 Craftsman that was given to me, and was built in the 1960's. I would like to upgrade the wings and the fence on mine, can you tell me if the aluminum grate type wings have any advantage over the cast iron grate type, other than the aluminum type being lighter? Both types, aluminum and cast iron wings basically cost about the same when you can find them. My saw came with a single old sheet metal type wing pan and the crappy stock fence. But the saw runs smooth, even with a V-Belt, and cuts dead on, every time. She just needs some upgrades, which wings do you suggest would be the better choice?? Thanks in advance.

[@ghostses]

Thanks Kenny. To be honest with you, I don't know of any advantage in using aluminum over cast iron besides weight- like you mention. I would think the aluminum would be more prone to dings and nicks and for that sole reason, I would go with cast iron if it were my saw. Sounds like you have a fine saw. I love mine and it runs and cuts great too. Not that I was much help, but I hope it helps is some way. Good luck, G.

[@mrgroovestring]

***** Yes, you have answered my question with honesty, and that is the best policy. I had thought about the aluminum wings getting "snags" on top of the grates after I asked you about them. It makes sense, that I would have to be careful not to drop a hammer or something with an edge on the aluminum for that reason alone. The light weight would sure be nice, but I really think that you are spot on with the cast iron being "the better choice" even if they are heavy. I found a couple of iron wings for sale, but I'll have to wait until next month. The shipping charges are outrageous nowadays. Have you had any issues with getting the rear end of your fence to slide easily, and accurately, along the rail with the front end when you try to get the fence parallel with the blade? Man, mine is a mutha to get lined up straight. Thank you for your help sir.

[@ghostses]

Kenny Starr It sounds like you're getting close to a decision. I know it's not best practice, as I hang my head in shame, but I use my tablesaw as a workbench from time to time. Or it becomes a storage unit when not in use- another shameful moment...lol. If you're anything like those of us that do, cast iron would be the best choice for sure. You will have to pony up more on the shipping- which is getting expensive. At one point in time I had the fence running smooth, accurate, and repeatable. It's not as nice now- but it's OK. I just bump it around and check the front and back of the blade for parallelism. I need to dial it in again, but it's not bothered me enough just yet I guess. I recall getting it parallel to the blade was an act of perseverance and patience. As for it sliding easily without canting, I might be able to help out with that problem- maybe. I'm not sure if you have the lever locking fence like mine or a twist handle- but the procedure might be the same for both. Take your fence off and turn it over. At the end near the lever, you should see a spring tension bracket with a 90 degree bend in it. Mine has a white piece of plastic on it. There should be two screws holding it down. You can loosen them up and slide the bracket towards the locking lever to tighten up the spring tension. The tension is what holds the T part of the fence tightly to the front rail. It's one of those fickle adjustments where a little means a lot. Too tight and you can't move the fence with ease- too loose and it will cant over at the back. Give that a go and see if it helps it out. G.

[@mrgroovestring]

***** Oh my Lord, the shame of it all LOL!! I have my wooden chainsaw toolbox sitting on mine, and several other tools (circular saw) etc. LOL! You ain't by yourself my friend. I'm just an old man, who likes to tinker, and try to build small projects around the house, when I feel up to it. And I still love the old stuff that was Made In The U.S.A. (a sentimental old fool) I guess. To answer the fence question, mine is the "twist handle type" and I have read on some of the forums, that the "lever type" like you have, were actually the better stock design of the two that were offered in that time period. I do have an operators manual that I printed off of the internet, and I was looking at the fence adjustment section today. You are correct, on the one that I have there are (2) bolts on top at the front of the fence, and another adjustment at the rear. My saw needs a GOOD cleaning, AND WAXING of the slides. I have some projects coming up this Winter, and the (2) wing extensions, along with a complete cleanup are on my list of things to do. Yep, freight prices have gone completely outrageous, along with everything else these days. From what I am seeing on Ebay, a pair of 27"x12" wings are going to set me back around $150.00 or so. But, it's a heck of a lot cheaper to buy wings for these nice old saws, than it is to buy a new high dollar saw, just for my meager back yard cobbling efforts. By the way, wont I need (2) rail extensions for wing support, and for extra fence travel? Thank you again my friend, for all of the advice, and the help. Greg

[@ghostses]

Kenny Starr No doubt Greg! OK, so you have the twist type lock. The two bolts on the top should be the ones that allow you to adjust the fence parallel to the blade. The ones I was referring to are on the bottom side of the fence- at least on mine. I don't know if the one you have has the spring bracket, for lack of a better description, that can be adjusted to eliminate the fence from wanting to cant when you slide it from side to side. If you have a link to the manual, send it to me so I can look at it. I did find a fence on ebay that has a pic of what I'm speaking of. Check out the last picture. You can see the two screws, spring bracket, and white plastic piece. Is this the type you have? If so, that's the adjustment. www.ebay.com/itm/Sears-Craftsman-10-Table-Saw-Rip-Fence-Guide-Rails-for-27-deep-tables-/221544427646?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339513b07e 150 or so for the wings seems crazy to me. Around here, I can buy an entire saw like mine off Craigslist for that, or just a bit more condition considered. But, your model might be a different story. I would say yes, you will need rail extensions- or longer rails to replace the ones you have on your saw now. On my saw, they're just angle iron with holes/slots in them. If you have the ability and tooling, you might consider making your own- as a thought. G.

[@akivazohar2502]

Thanks, just asked for this on the rust removal video Those hinges really stay with just one bolt?

[@ghostses]

I see! They do stay put with just one bolt. It's been years and all is still good. Good luck, G.

[@DennisMathias]

Weird to see my saw on your video. Great mods! Have you ever adjusted the squareness of the blade to miter? I'd like to see that done. Involves bolts on the trundle I think. Also, I'd like to see that zero clearance plate. Hinges are a good idea. You could put a wing nut or spinner knob on that bolt so you don't have to use a wrench! My table came with metal handles so must have been some variations.

[@ghostses]

Yeah Dennis, there must be a million of these out there. The mods work great- especially for storing it in a small space. There is enough wiggle room so I can put the nut on my hand. I lift the table up, then adjust the nut so the wing is level to the table surface. It's not fully tightened up and the weight of the wing keeps it from moving. You're probably right, they had variations here and there. My replacement handles still work great- about 14yrs later. The zero clearance insert is simply a 3/4 piece of MDF with an oak veneer. It's been routed out to form a ledge so it sits flush with the table surface. Hard to explain, but simple in construction. Yes, I have adjusted the blade to the miter slot. A very important thing to do with any saw. Yes, it's adjusted by loosening up the trunion bolts. It's a painful process on this saw, but the way I went about it was something like this: It starts with making sure the blade is raised all the way up, is perfectly 90 degrees to the table, and the blade locked using the lever on the front. I made a wooden runner that fit snugly in the miter slot. It has a block of wood attached that extends closer to the blade. On it a dial indicator is attached. I move the indicator pointer to the outermost edge of the blade and make a mark where the pointer contacts. Then move the indicator to the other end of the blade and rotate the blade so the mark is under the pointer. Depending on the readings, the trunions will be manipulated until the blade is parallel to the slot. To move the trunions around, the bolts on the front one are loosened up slightly, and the rear loosened up a little more. Basically just enough to allow them to move, but not so loose they're flopping around. Then I use a block of wood to tap the back trunion around and recheck the readings. Tap, check, tap, check, tighten, check, loosen, tap, check, tighten, check, etc. until I have it parallel. It's painful and slow- but can be done with persistence. They sell a kit, or used to, consisting of small brackets with setscrews that are supposed to make the process easier. I've never used them, so I can't say either way. Long winded, but hope it helps, G.

[@philipshields1183]

Haven't tried on mine yet, bit looks like there's 4 bolts underneath you can loosen for truing the blade to the miter gauge slots.

[@major3078]

hi thanks for the vid. Im curious to know if you have a riving knife on this table saw? and if not, would you be able to install one with some modifications?

[@ghostses]

+MasterMIND Major No Master, I don't have one mounted and I've never considered modifying it for one, so I don't really know if it can be done- or how. You could probably find an insert that incorporates a splitter- but that's not really your question. I don't have my saw with me to see if it might be possible. Not much help, sorry. If you do find some info on how it might be done, please let me know. Good luck, G.

[@cencotech2088]

+ghostses The riving knife on this saw is part of the blade guard assembly. You may not have gotten it with the saw. Here is a link to a picture of the guard. www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-10-Belt-drive-Table-saw-Blade-guard-complete-113-xxxx-GOOD-Cond/111806674337?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33665%26meid%3Da85b20a3d7af45aebde295fd985a2e87%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D111781641826 I have actually have 2 of these saws. This one (which is in storage) and one that is a little newer with the new Align a Rip fence that I bought a few years ago. Very nice fence. Here is a link for a picture of the fence. toolreviews.woodmagazine.com/power-tool-reviews/saws/tablesaw-accessories/rip-fences/616-craftsman-align-a-rip-xrc-rip-fence The saw also has the built in router table section on the right side of the right side wing. Would not be a good set up for your shop, as it is about 5 feet wide all together. Thanks for sharing the video.

[@ghostses]

+Cencotech Yes, I do have that setup. To me, what I have its a splitter and not a riving knife. I could be wrong, but I believe a riving knife sits right behind the blade, and travels up and down with the blade. So he gap behind the blade and the knife stays constant. A splitter stays in one spot and the gap behind the blade will change as the blade is raised and lowered. It might be a tomatoes/tamotoes kind of thing...lol. The fence you have looks really nice- way better than the one I have. That's really the only complaint I could have with my saw. It's been a great running machine and is super accurate- after tuning it of of course! Yeah, I couldn't use one with a built in router due to my space problems. I have almost enough space collectively just to store my tools. Actually being able to use them is another story...lol. It's a real pain. Take care, G.

[@cencotech2088]

+ghostses The knife thing may have to do with being a belt drive verses a direct drive. I really don't know. It's funny no matter how much space I have in my shop, I can manage to fill it. I got that fence years ago online on sale for $99.00. The rail is the long one so It will rip 30 inches right of the blade and 24 inches left of the blade. It has been very accurate, and it just glides effortlessly from side to side. Also has T-slots in it so I can bolt on face boards, feather boards and other attachments. Take Care

[@ghostses]

+Cencotech Yeah, I don't really know either. LOL... I know what you mean, when I think I'm full, I always find a way to drag something else in. You got a deal on the fence for sure. T-slots are a great thing to have- extremely versatile. I don't have any, but the uses are endless. I aspire, one day, to have a 52 right of the blade! and about a 4' out-feed table. When I dream-I dream big...lol. G.

[@asdf21819]

Any way to add a riving knife to this? I'm afraid to use this without one.

[@ghostses]

Not that I'm aware of Ethan. If the saw blade is aligned correctly to the miter slot and then the fence is aligned correctly, it should work just fine- but always be safe with any operation. Good luck, G.

[@jimwiskus8862]

Amazing job, as usual. Just wondered what your thoughts are on using a small sliding latch on each end to hold the wings in place once they are in the upright position? Another thought was a clevis pin with the “hair pin” keeper that slides through. Thanks for all you do. Merry Christmas! Jim

[@ghostses]

Thanks Jim. I guess if the latch is heavy duty enough it might work. The same would go for the clevis pin. The bolt I use does allow for adjustment so I can get the tables co-planer. That could be a problem with either a sliding or clevis pin. Merry Christmas to you as well, G.

[@eltee9547]

Great vid and thanks for the info. I have the same saw and my frustration is with the flimsy fence. I love the mod you did on your fence. Do you have a set of plans for the fence mod? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

[@ghostses]

Thanks! No, I don't have plans. It's just mdf on the sides and top. It was built over the original fence. Not much help, but hope it helps. Take care, G.

[@eltee9547]

Thanks for taking the time to respond. Cheers!

[@ghostses]

No problem! G.

[@rodyy72]

Can you tell me what year they make this kind of table saw ? Thanks

[@ghostses]

I don't know. I would guess late eighties to early nineties.

[@guitarman_3693]

my model / sub-model numbers have worn away and my uncle gifted mine to me. . mine is exactly like yours, cast web wings, lever lock fence, ect. if possible could you tell me our 133.**** sub model numbers. thank you so much.... ohh , great idea on the flip up wings !!! im extremely limited on space also...

[@ghostses]

@@guitarman_3693 Sorry for the delay! The model number for my saw is 113.298762. Hope this helps, G.

[@kodiham7532]

Great job! I will be doing your mods to my craftsman, how did you cut the the forward and rear rails? Looks like a very clean cut.

[@ghostses]

Thanks Kodi! I used a horizontal band saw to make the cuts, but with care- a hand held saw will get the job done just fine. Good luck with your mods, G.

[@otiliovallejo]

Any idea where I can buy a (on and off switch) for this can of saw?? Thank you!!

[@ghostses]

I would say eBay would be your best bet. G.

[@otiliovallejo]

@@ghostses thank you very much!

[@ghostses]

@@otiliovallejo No problem! G.

[@dessertman1181]

Did you find the hinges right of the shelf at a Big Box store?

[@ghostses]

Dessert Man Yes, I used standard door hinges. Mine have square corners, but I don't think it matters if they have a radius on them. Just try to find any hinge that doesn't have a lot of play in them. Good luck, G.

[@webslinger67]

Ok , that fold down locking handle fence didn't come with that table, I have the very same one. Where did that fence come from....I hate the factory one.

[@ghostses]

+webslinger67 It did come with the saw. I think they had a couple of different styles. My Dads is a twist handle and I can't stand it. It sounds like you might have the same style. I think the model number of my saw is 113.298762. You might be able to find a fence on Ebay for a good deal. Good luck, G.

[@webslinger67]

+ghostses thank you much, I will take a look there

[@ghostses]

webslinger67 No problem! G.

[@mattperez7580]

So I have the same saw but the model number is gone. Any info or links that you have to the booklets or guides for it? Or even just the model number would help. Thanks!

[@ghostses]

Matt, I can't get the exact model number at the moment- but will try to post it for you. If you don't hear from me in a couple of days- hit me up again as a reminder. Don't be shy, G.

[@mattperez7580]

Any luck with he model number? Thanks

[@KhanJohnston]

Here's a historical page on craftsman stationary power tools. Find table saws in the table then click through until you find a similar photo. Yours is LIKELY a 113. made by emerson, so I'd focus there: vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=4&sort=1&th=false&fl=

[@ghostses]

Sorry Matt, I wasn't notified of your comment. My saw is model number 113.298762. Hope this helps, G.

[@ghostses]

Thanks for the info Alex! Mine is a 113- like you said. Take care, G.

[@joebaharian]

What did you use to cut the fence rail with?

[@ghostses]

Joe, I used a horizontal band saw to make the cuts. It can be done with a hand held hack saw as well. This is the exact tool I used- for reference. Good luck, G. www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

[@UpcycleElectronics]

Very cool idea. Ancient video, but if anyone here has one of these saws still, replace a wing with a Bosch RA1181. It fits perfectly. I need to do a video to show it, but the thing fits like its designed for the saw (on my 315).

[@ghostses]

Thanks! Great info! Take care, G.

[@ERone43]

Very kool!

[@ghostses]

Thanks! Good luck, G.

[@dessertman1181]

Thanks for your reply's I really appreciate the advise!

[@ghostses]

Dessert Man No problem! G.

[@Paul_C83]

Very nice work

[@ghostses]

Thanks Paul. G.

[@stubbornfive]

thanks for the design modifications was looking at doing something similar

[@ghostses]

ken noble Thanks Ken. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Take care, G.

[@jameshochstetler6093]

Can you explain how a belt can take out vibration?

[@ghostses]

No pro here James, a standard V belt will take on a set over time and basically shape itself to the pulleys. As it is used, it will tighten up and slack off as it goes around causing vibration. The link belt does not take on a set so it will be much smoother running. There may be more to it, but that's my take. Good luck, G.

[@jameshochstetler6093]

Thanks sounds reasonable to me on the belt do you think replacing my pulleys are necessary in reducing vibration. I believe mine are original

[@ghostses]

No problem James. I don;t think the kit which includes the pulleys are available these days- but I could be wrong. But the pulleys themselves can also create vibration. Not sure of your setup, but mine were a die cast pulley and they did have a lot of run-out. Steel machined pulleys are the way to go in my opinion. If you can't find a kit with pulleys, I would start with a link belt. If that doesn't satisfy your needs, I would then look for machined pulleys. Hope this helps, G.

[@woodworkingtao4246]

great idea!

[@ghostses]

+WoodWorkingTAO Thanks! G.

[@JAYJAYJAY53]

nice work

[@ghostses]

Thanks Jay! Good luck, G.

[@Bigwingrider1800]

Great idea but i"m not going to cut my Incra fence system.. but nice

[@ghostses]

Thanks! The mod shown here is for a stock saw- not any aftermarket fences like the Incra/etc. Take care, G.

[@ivanygnaciomalca8500]

Cuánto es el precio d la máquina q lugar esta

[@ghostses]

They don't make this one anymore. You can find them used on Craigslist for 100-250 depending on where you're located. Good luck, G.

[@paulmcfeeters5554]

First rule of table saws. Make sure saw barely clears the work. Stops the saw binding, reduced risk of kickbacks and if you trip and fall onto it you might survive.

[@ghostses]

Exactly! Thanks for the post, G.

[@JayRCartor]

Never cut your rail system. your accuracy goes out the window. Hinges on the left side is ok nut not ok on the right side. I put dowel pins on mine and welded the nuts onto the table. That way I can install the wings one handed.

[@ghostses]

I disagree, especially with the way I attacked what I was doing, but do appreciate your comments. It gives others something to think about. Good luck and take care, G.

[@mrgcav]

I like your hinge Idea. But door hinges have alot of play. A commercial grade continously door hinge would be much better. Cutting the fence rail creates a gap of varying and unknown width. So while you may disagree because you ysinf an inaccurate stock fence you do not notice the slop you have introduced into your system. If you go with a better independent fence like a U26 Vega Then that would eliminate the slop you introduced. Put another way... Go try a professional Cabinet saw then you will understand what I am talking about.

[@ghostses]

@@mrgcav Um, my stuff works just fine. It's all about setup. Perhaps you should read your comments again and realize the comments really make no sense. Just saying. Or, fix your shizz and try again. Your choice...

[@JayRCartor]

@@ghostses My comments make perfect sense. If you can not understand them.... I am a professional woodworker and Machinist for 35 years. Having one solid reference rail is way more accurate than having a sectioned rail without a reference.

[@ghostses]

@@JayRCartor No, it doesn't. You just can't, or fail to, see it. And I don't care what your pedigree is, you're still WRONG. You can't make a determination without trying my saw as it sits. It's accurate. Be gone now...

[@jeremymcclanahan2389]

why is the video pausing every few seconds

[@ghostses]

Not sure Jeremy. G.