COSMETOLOGY CLASS: HAIRCOLORING 4: GRAY COVERAGE

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

Direct aniline derivative haircolor is the permanent color straight out of the the tube or a bottle without being mixed with the peroxide. So you just use the haircolor without peroxide first on the grey areas, and then mix the same color with the peroxide and apply it over the grey parts that you pigmented first then to the rest of the regrowth. That's the double pigmentation process.

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

You welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

Use high lift ash color; like level 12 ash base color with 30 volume or double the amount of the peroxide: note, this works on virgin hair, it does not work well on previously colored hair.

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

The midshaft if also called a cold-shaft of the hair; the roots have a lot of heat comparing to the middle of the hair. Do the middle and the ends first, then reopen the foils and do the root area to get more even results; the midshaft just needs more time. Hope this helps.

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

If the client has 50% gray, then, usually, you can add 50% of neutral color to the desired color, in your case-the red to cover gray. But, if your client wants a very vibrant red, you can mix 1 and a half ounces of RR with half ounces of neutral; that will work, too. I just don't want the neutral to interfere with red, since too much of it will take the vibrancy of red away. But, usually the neutral and other colors have to be 50-50 for the 50% gray. I hope this helps.

[@paula3280]

Great info, I have learned alot listening and watching you. Thanks so much for taking the time to do these great learning videos

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

You don't have to pre-soften, just mix the the level 6 Red with level 6 neutral. If you are not sure, you can do a strand test on a small piece of hair. Try it, it will work.

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

With the presoftening, you can follow with the color mixed with peroxide over the presoftened hair. You can use 20 or even 10 volume on gray hair for deposit, if the hair is not too stubborn for 10 volume. Yes, you do need the 3 primary colors to cover gray.

[@Briannafrancis-e9g]

10volis never used on grey hair unless it’s a semi permanent

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

To cover gray, you need to add some neutral for most haircolor brands, even if the client wants auburn hair. In some cases you need to mix two colors; one would be auburn + neutral for gray, and the other would be for the dark hair; a little lighter auburn, but no neutral necessary. In any case, strand test would help determine the right color mixture, application and processing time. Hope this helps!

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

@realvanillahair You can presoften 30-50% gray hair, too, if it is resistant to haircolor.

[@khanhlytran]

Hi, I am not quite sure I understood the double pigmentation process? What would be a direct aniline derivative hair color? Your videos have been so helpful. Thank you.

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

Answers to your questions: 1. Do you mean pre-soften the virgin hair that has gray all over? Yes, you can, but only if it is resistant to color. 2. Gray magic is a liquid product that is added to permanent haircolor: 10-15 drops into the color will help the gray take the color better. It is not used alone, but it helps the color take better. 3. Double pigmentation works better on partially gray hair that has some gray on some parts only. Add the color pigment alone only on those areas.

[@mulliganstew72]

BeautyHealthTravel double pigmentation is new to me!! So this Is only color, no peroxide? I know some color lines offer a double pigmentation formula like 6NN (double neutral)

[@Briannafrancis-e9g]

No peroxide. Some mix the tint with water. Let it process for 20min then add your mixed tint with peroxide to your hair. Do not rinse the previous application that was for pre softening

[@SonaliMNarkar05]

Nice knowledge mam... Thank you.. I am from India🙏

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

Most welcome 😊 I really enjoy Indian culture, the movies, and know a great deal about your history. Thanks for watching the videos and visiting our channel.

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

Yes

[@taiya618]

THANK YOU BeautyHealthTravel

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

You welcome! Any time.

[@buthainaf]

thanks for this very important procedure , however after softening do you mix hair color with developer to apply after. thanks

[@MsTipsycolada]

I know you're asking her but since I've been researching the best way to get better gray coverage this is what I found out: Do this pre softenning step and then rinse 5-10 min. later . You dry the hair then apply the mixture of hair color and developer as you normally would. Hope this helps.

[@taiya618]

Can you pre-soften before box coloring? I have lots of gray in the front and crown area. I would like to use a box color to color my hair lighter. ???? tks

[@shavonnecarter]

I have the following three questions: 1) If the client's hair is spotted with gray all over is it wise to pre soften the entire head of hair? 2) How long does the Gray Magic last? Is it permanent? 3) For the same client that has spotted hair all over, how do I employ the Double pigmentation method?

[@realvanillahair]

let's say if we need to presoften gray hair, is it supposed to be like 100% grey or can be done on 30-50% of grey as well?

[@robinalvarado9201]

when doing highlights on dark hair can you add hair color to the bleach solution to get caramel highlights?

[@Snowflakes.2]

Hi. I have a question if u can help me plz,,,,,, when I do regrowth of full head foils then I use tonner. The roots to mids go white blond but from the mids to ends it looks different. It becomes two different colours.....what can I do to even the foils out please

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

Unfortunately I don't have a pdf file for this video, they are all in a video form.

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

The bleach will neutralize the color added to it, so you will waste color. dark color has a lot of worm tones, so you will get it without adding any color to the bleach. Better do the highlights, then tone with caramel toner; works better that way.

[@abdelrahman22781]

how can i go from darker hair to light hair without bleach

[@mrsnewtonton]

Grey magic didnt work for me .i used loreal oreference hair color and add 20 drops of grey magic.can you tell me what i did wrong.

[@prunnella]

50 percent gray and dark pigment (level 3) in the back, the color to have = level 7 natural cool blond. Is it possible WO bleach?

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

If your hair is not colored at all, you can use level 12 ash color to lighten the dark color the level 6-7 gold, since your dark hair has a lot of red that will turn to gold orange, and the gray hair will gain little or no color; the whole thing will look like highlighted hair, if your gray is evenly distributed. I hesitate that the dark hair will pull to light level 8 blond. You can do a strand test to be sure.

[@trendyfashion4539]

How to know that the customer's hair is resistant before apply the color ? Is there any way to judge it before coloring?

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

You can feel it with touch, also by asking the client how his/her hair behaves; they know their hair. A quick strand test will help, too.

[@realvanillahair]

@BeautyHealthTravel ....tnx love :)

[@abdelrahman22781]

please i need your material pdf to save it and study it very well to get your licence can you supply it to me

[@JG-hy8kv]

This is the same guy these videos are the best but you can learn from everyone but thanks two you again

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

You welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@Briannafrancis-e9g]

Aren’t you supposed to add water or the tint for pre softening ,then apply the colour as usual on top

[@BeautyHealthTravel]

One way is to add 10V peroxide first, then add the color mixed with peroxide. The other way is the double-pigmentation technique; first use the haircolor straight from the bottle on the gray spots, then add the mixed color (color+peroxide) over. That's what color companies suggest.

[@Briannafrancis-e9g]

@@BeautyHealthTravel yeah but it’s too thick to apply straight from the tube with no liquid at all. I read many times that using peroxide only on the hair is an old wives tale

[@hoahua1]

hoahua1

[@franceneerdmann9925]

You keep saying "natural" the word is "Neutral" as pronounced "NEWtral". You will confuse people if you can't speak right.

[@mulliganstew72]

Francene Erdmann :) Awww love her accent. In some color lines like Kuene, for example they refer to their main colors as “natural”