DIY Glass 3D Printer

[@specific-solutions]

You've outdone yourself, this is amazing. The robust build, entertaining presentation, and apparent ease of construction are a testament to the many hours you've put into fabrication and video editing Been with yah since the hand washing machine, thanks for your great content

[@KimSchlongUn]

Hey man great video! I work in at a 3D printing factory and work in R&D for different types of printers. I have spent a lot of time working on material screeners. Your printer looks like it will work amazingly as is! Focus on your sand particle size consistency! This is extremely important to achieving fine quality SLS prints. Grains of sand are far too big and have tons of space in-between the individual grains hence using smaller particle sizes (think fine powder as in 20 microns). If you want to print glass, it's totally do-able and you are just about there but try either getting your hands on powdered sand/whatever you need for glass making or whack together pulverizer, and seeing your videos you should be able to do that pretty easily. Lastly always strain the powder for consistency. You can buy 20 micron or less mesh and it's simply a case of gluing that to a rigid frame a making a sifter. Ultrasonic vibrations work best for sifting the material through fine screens. Lastly once you are using powdered materials *and I can not say this enough* use PPE! Do not breath that shit! If you can, build an enclosure of throw a cheap box over it while it's in operation. This will also help stop foreign contamination within the prints. What you have built there is awesome and don't underestimate the different materials you can print with that. You can start with SLS which is normally referring to the sintering of plastics. SLM or laser melting which is more what you are doing is awesome. You can totally print metal powders! But you might need to build an oven around the printer itself. Aluminum is a good start for metal printing but beware, powdered aluminum is dangerous shit will give you early onset Alzheimer's if you ingest too much of it. If you were to replace the laser with a water sprayer you can also print concrete which is fun as shit! I love your crazy videos, Hopefully you read this and it can help you out a bit!

[@KimSchlongUn]

Another tip, make sure you have a way for your print to adhere to the build plate. For this we usually do use machined aluminum plates I'm our printers and simply sandblast the surface for good adhesion. Cheers and good building!

[@entropynetwork]

To avoid the heat shock destroying your pieces, the glass bath needs to be at the annealing temperature for the duration of the print and then follow the glass's annealing schedule after the print. At present, the heat in the glass bath is dispersed into the cold sand.

[@scottn9492]

You might have something there, I think that the metal powder 3D printers are heated for much the same reason.

[@DreadPirateSteve1]

It'll be hard to heat the sand with the current platform material he has right now unfortunately

[@voidtype]

username checks out

[@AJMansfield1]

AFAIK the main reason for using a roller for the screeding mechanism is to make the layer more dense and uniform (by compacting it slightly), but it'd also help prevent the print from being caught and dragged to the side since the roller would just push any protrude-y bits down instead of catching.

[@TSiguy1991]

In the sand casting industry, they have 3D sand printers for making sand molds. The sand cores are printed with a binder and inhibitor mixture "printed" on the sand. Since you have a foundry already, you could use what you have stated there to make more complex sand castings by 3D printing the sand molds. The largest most widely industrial available sand printers is the ExOne if you want to check it out.

[@snapo1750]

same as i was thinking... this is perfect for doing sandcasing metal!

[@jacoblee4424]

Curious if you swapped laser modules for a different wavelength or swapped over to a dark glass media to absorb more of the 450nm light, you may have a better adhesion or melt. Also, swapping to a finer mesh media may make better resolution sorta like SLS operates.

[@BentoGambin]

Exactly what came to my mind.

[@gorak9000]

I suspect even if you started with brown beer bottles and ground them up, if the powder was fine enough, it would still look white. The same holds true for many materials - think of salt - if it's all in one huge crystal, it's clear, but if it's in small granules, it's white looking. Pretty sure there's a name for that phenomenon, but can't think of it off the top of my head.

[@thesentientneuron6550]

@@gorak9000 The term you're looking for is scattering. Excellent observation!

[@gorak9000]

@@thesentientneuron6550 Yes, I know in general it's scattering, but I think that's a particular type. The ones I know of are Rayleigh / Mie and Raman scattering, and after doing a little wikipedia-ing, I don't think it's any of these. Rayleigh scattering is caused by particles smaller than the wavelength of light, and Mie scattering is caused by particles approximately the same size as the wavelength of light. In this case, the salt crystals, or glass dust particles are MUCH MUCH larger than the wavelength of light. I suspect it has to do with reflections off the inner surfaces of the salt crystals, or glass dust particles.

[@thesentientneuron6550]

@@gorak9000 Hmm, after digging around a bit, I found a wiki page describing "Anomalous Diffraction Theory". My search began on a wiki page titled "Light Scattering by Particles" if you're interested in the other methods. Thank you! I learnt something new.

[@johnconphoto]

You're on the right track with the fabric around the build platform as a seal. I work with metal SLS machines, and our build platform gaskets are felt! Not sure what type necessarily, but its pretty stiff, lighter white-ish color. Our frames are about 2ftx2ft and the felt is around 3/8" thick and tall. Not so sure thickness matters as long as it contacts well. Would have to be high-temp felt idealy

[@donhalley5622]

Your projects alone blow my mind, but the video post raisins everything to a new level. You resist the temptation of including repetitive material and thus keep the entertainment quality rocking. On top of all this, you don't even seem to know how amazingly good this all is!

[@Rogue-Scientist]

The reason companies use a roller instead of a scraper, is that the roller fluidizes the powder so that it flows better. This decreases the likelihood of the recoater getting stuck in your printed part. But its not necessary if you have good control over the temperatures in the print environment. Also, keep in mind that the smoke from the sintering will slowly coat your laser optics, which will decrease the laser power over time. A heated enclosure might help with your curling (warping) problems, but im not sure how hot you need to go for glass.

[@bowieinc]

This is just insane. The amount of work you put into this is inspiring. I am so looking forward to when 3D printing metal becomes affordable at the hobbyist level.

[@theclintified]

Cool, I think you might try using a low fire clay material rather than glass. If you could get it in powder form (or dry it and crush it) you may be able to get better bonding due to the smaller particles. It may be worth making it into slip (thick pasty clay) and see if it will hold in the bins. You may be able to produce a ceramic like piece... who knows..I always enjoy your vids!

[@timmeh87]

Look into ferro frit which is borosilicate glass, dont bother sintering, go for full melt IMO

[@roberthercules3159]

I actually came back to this video intending to leave a comment extremely similar to this. Using a finely powdered clay will give the ability to use MUCH thinner layers (== higher resolution), while allowing the laser module to heat smaller quantities of u sintered material at a time, thus achieving faster heating (for higher temperatures &/or faster print speeds). Also, if you add a fit of wood-fire ash to the clay, it will flux the clay & lower the vitrification temperature significantly, further enhancing speed, or maybe even allowing that 20W laser to actually convert the clay fully into glass (or at least HIGHLY glazed ceramic)

[@davidchanget2563]

Love your content. My wife and I both sit down and watch every time you post a new video. There is a ton of science behind the wipe arm which you'll find out if you do any digging into it. I think I would probably start by using a piece of maybe .250 inch rubber about 1 inch wide and cut some grooves in it long ways with a table saw so that is it stiff on the initial wipe but bends up out of the way on return. You could also build a second sand fill chamber on the other side of the print chamber to speed up the printing process. Most sls printers that I know of use a laser focused on a mirror and just move the mirror to direct the beam. (Very complicated calibration process) I recommend reaching out to metal 3d printing companies and talking to someone about what size particles are best suited for printing. You definitely could use finer particles!

[@blazehenot2536]

I love how basically everything you make is the epitome of JANK, and yet everything works 80% as good as an industrial product for 1% of the price. truly inspiring!

[@jordan1081]

It's awesome to see a proof of concept v1 work so well and not set on fire. Happy things are going good for the channel, you know you've made it big when people start sending you free stuff.

[@alexandrevaliquette1941]

I like your "old tony" delivery. Seriously, you are on your way to get into the 100k subs within a year. You work hard, you entertain us, you deserve it. Love from Montréal

[@CharlesVanNoland]

That spring-loaded conformal platform rig was awesome looking!

[@dr_gotheem3899]

This is the dark souls of DIY projects on KZbin. Fantastic!

[@blazinthat7439]

The things you do man, blows my mind.

[@smellycat249]

This is such an amazing printer you made. It’s so cool what a garage genius can make.

[@noonecz5201]

Nice one 👍, to my limited knowledge they usually preheat the material, so that the laser just adds few degrees to melt it. And as you might have noticed excess box for the extra material would be handy. Maybe even finer glass particles.

[@Jimmy___]

The result was pretty incredible! Also I laughed at how you can hear more and more sand on the floor when you walk around as the video progressed.

[@bane3727]

It's pretty easy to make an automatic grinder for sand and stuff like that with some steel ball bearings and a motor. Making your own print media would allow you to control the print a whole lot more. For a glass sls like this something like boric oxide or zinc oxide for flux would be really good. minimize the thermal stress. The best improvement your gonna get is by increasing the absorption. Problem is glass really doesn't like absorbing light, if I remember right its peak happens in the 200-300nm range. So, while there's no way you're getting a laser with that wavelength, aim for getting the lowest wavelength laser possible. The other option is to mess with glass fillers. Getting one that has a high absorption and get it to coat or glass media. Lastly there's always the tried and true method. Throw money at it and get a really high power laser. For other projects with this you could definitely try iron. It has a darker oxide and you could use a eutectic to slam the melting point. Should be able to print a good enough part that would post process sinter to something pretty strong.

[@isaacbrewer5616]

This guy has so much skill in making crazy stuff. It’s awesome! Keep up the good work! Your content goes way beyond the typical KZbin video! You rock!

[@lisakingscott7729]

Amazing results from a quick and 'dirty' build. Quick being a few days at least, I guess, but that's still amazingly fast to get something doing this! It would be interesting to try metal powder. Aluminium is fairly low melting temp, but dreadful at absorbing light energy. However if you can melt glass, should melt aluminium. 2 basic things which could improve it, although commercial printers have a load more differences to make commercial grade prints. 1. The powder bed needs another bin so that when you sweep a new layer across, the excess doesn't all pile up at the end. In fact if you added a bin with another 'piston', you could sweep layers in both directions, alternately swapping feed and dump bins, lowering the dump bin and raising the feed bin each sweep. The hopper bins wouldn't need the accuracy of height control that the sintering bin would need, so long as more than enough powder is swept across each time. The 'dump' bin just needs to be low enough on each sweep to get all the excess powder without it piling above the level of the sweeper. 2. To minimise laser power, SLS printers often keep the powder at a temperature only a few degrees below the melting temperature. This way the laser only has to heat a few degrees to fuse whatever is being sintered. In this build that would mean heated supply hopper. Even if you only heated a couple of hundred degrees, it would lower the extra energy needed from the laser, which should mean better sintering.

[@hiddenloaf2302]

If it can melt glass you could probably try aluminum powder as well. I've also seen that heated enclosures or powder beds can help with melting high temp materials, I've seen most professional applications try and get the materials almost to their melting point to ensure that it melts with as little exposure needed to both increase speed and definition

[@humanistwriting5477]

Definitely got idea Use plastic powder Make an Fe-silicon core for a motor using quartz, boron, and cast iron powder Make a heated bed so that steam will no longer cause porosity.(Definitely would cause issues with your current setup but.... more faster prints...) See if you can make a simple lense that bakes to clear

[@cylosgarage]

This is a very very slept on channel. I’m glad I’m here

[@baileescott401]

Btw the exhaust points down to remove all smoke particles from collecting on the lens. The lens blackens from soot then absorbs the heat and breaks. Good luck, it looks super awesome!!!!

[@properprinting]

Well that was an awesome and interesting use for a laser cutter.

[@ChiralSymmetry]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing Although, all I could think about is making a sugar SLS printer that prints sweet crunchy benchies. XD

[@cranktowncity]

holy shit this is genius

[@kob8082]

@@cranktowncity if you do this see if pixie sticks or other flavored sugars work

[@Tubaii25]

If you could adjust the spot size of the laser, then I think you could get a finer line even though the end result would be limited by the grain size of the powder. Adding finer control to the bed movement might get you better layer heights. That might be something you could do. And vases!

[@squelchstuff]

That, my friend , is inspiring. Well done on building a home brew SLS printer as a proof of concept. It definitely leaves plenty of scope for further experiments with alternative media and wiper configurations. A ball mill might produce a finer powder from either the blasting media, or you could even try beer bottles 🍻

[@kyleeames8229]

That’s awesome! I’m fact, subCount += 1; Glass is much more complex than most people intuit. It’ll work if the correct glass recipe is used. You’ll be printing bongs in no time!

[@blakemeding7917]

Dinger laid! Nicely done!

[@Oroborus710]

Awesome video, I love the Trogdor the Burninator reference

[@MarioIArguello]

Dude, you got me interested, great approach to execution. Back in the early 90's I operated and managed a 3D Systems SLA machine no wiper, which was a tedious process because of the time involved waiting for the Ciba Gigi resin to level, I had plans to retrofit the machine with one, but the owner of the company decided to stop using the machine and my job went out the door. While at it, we made a lot of cell phone case prototypes in it. My early intro to 3D printing. The best way to approach projects, just dive right in if you have the inclination and skill level. I enjoyed your video. Thumbs up.

[@blazehenot2536]

if you ever come back to this project you might be able to accomplish the rotating spreader by adding a rack and pinion to the spreader so that as it moves it spins, should also help prevent the rotation from shifting layers.

[@Supamic1]

NEXT PROJECT IDEA: a bolt of lightning ⚡ just hit my brain for your next project! You should make a glass grinder for household recycling to use your laser printer on! Gonna have to make really fine particles.

[@killsalot78]

This is awesome, I really hope you build a v2 with more power because it seems like you could get some really good prints from this

[@Kwilson2O14]

Super glad youtube suggested your channel, gonna be catching up on the rest of your videos. Incredible work!

[@JohnJaggerJack]

There is this age old trick for rectifying motor heads that you could have benefited alot in your pursuit. It uses flat glass rectangle, large enough for two piese side by side in the longest dimension, sand paper and water. First you lay the glass rectangle on the flatest surface you can find at home, wet the sand paper, lay it over the glass and use papers clamps on the 4 edges to keep it flat to the glass, drip some water on that paper, place the piece to be fatten on the sanding paper and in continuous controlled motion you drag it across the sand paper.

[@jaggederest]

Trading off time for quality, I would have it retrace the layer a couple times, should get better adhesion and melting. You could also mix some feldspar into your glass as a flux, and maybe some carbon black for better light absorption. You could also think about sintering lower melting point metals, maybe bismuth, depends on the toxicity profile of what you're doing (I would say zinc but nobody likes metal fume fever)

[@Spirit532]

Next step is to build a DIY galvo scanned CO2 laser. Glass is completely opaque to 10600nm light, and since it's fine sand, it's also not going to reflect much, which makes it a perfect solution. For this you can get away with the cheapest, crappiest 10-20W tube - don't need much more. All galvo heads speak XY2-100, which is easy to run through a teensy or a Pi Pico, there already exist G-code parsing solutions for that. For the media, go buy some regular pure silica powder - it's cheap and the particle size is way smaller and more uniform, perfect for printing. Just don't breathe the stuff, or you'll end up with a really nasty case of silicosis. It's also a good idea to preheat the top surface with infrared heaters(the regular cheap ones from toasters). Also: You *need* goggles for this laser! It's very easy to burn your eyes out. For CO2 you just need regular glass or polycarbonate(not PMMA!) and you're fine, both are completely opaque. For this atomstack, you need OD4 or higher rated goggles for the right wavelength(in this case 405nm) from one of the following brands: Laserglow, Kentek, Lasertack, Thorlabs, Honeywell, Glendale, Sperian, Newport/MKS, Edmund Optics, Laservision/Uvex, NoIR (LaserShield). If the manufacturer is not in this list, THEY ARE UNSAFE(personally tested). The ones included in the kit(if they are even included) are just colored plastic garbage, set it on fire and put it in the trash bin.

[@cranktowncity]

Dude through all the trials and tribulations of this I was just dreaming of using a CO2 laser, that'll be next time! Also don't worry, I've got my edmund goggles for this, I'm not too keen on surprise blindness. Thanks for the support and the input!

[@RemiRafael]

Nice project! Just a suggestion: a small amount of airflow from the laser module can evacuate the gasses and avoid screening of the laser beam. You may gain the equivalent of a watt or so and have a more homogenous effect.

[@InfinitePerspective]

Master maker man! Epic use of many various making modalities and epic determination and focus. Inspiring and educational! I appreciate the depiction of the trial and error in the design process and commitment necessary to realize your goal. And the amount of mediums necessary to succeed in accomplishing it. Great work!

[@azazeldeath]

For the wiper you could use a brush, foam or the likes, can also try car wiper blades, silicon ones might be best. Can also try drop down the print bed slightly more on the adding, then back to normal height before it comes back. Finally might be worth adding an excess sand bin/trap at the end of the adding process of each wipe, could literally be a plastic bin with some ramp might catch some of the overflow.

[@Kitemangek]

You're a genius! id like a wine glass like the LSA Elina !! with massive stems, sleek design

[@trashpanda9433]

Amazing. The EOS sls printers use a fire rope thing as their sliding surface for the plates similar to what you did. And they use 2 plates for their roller mechanism so they can recover the "sand" so it doesn't build up at the end. Overall sick

[@Genjure]

I cant wait to see this on Hackaday news lol. For the roller screet you can run a timing belt in parallel over the ballscrew, go under a pulley, over the drum, and under a pulley while anchoring both ends. Its harder to explain but Im sure you can figure out a simpler solution.

[@cranktowncity]

That is so much more elegant than the design I had in mind. Thanks!

[@Genjure]

@@cranktowncity as far as the lifting mechanism you could make it where it picks up onto a small wedge when going in the opposite direction. The rolling drag will naturally want to pick it up. Unsure if it will work as I was stumped until I started typing this out and have no idea the accuracy you can acheive. Think of it like the slot youd see on one of those self gripping tiedown buckles.

[@eusclepius]

I wanna thank KZbin for recommending this video to me. Mate, your content is awesome! You're as genuine as it gets and things you make impress. These videos will inspire a lot of people, I'm sure. Keep up the good work!

[@MegaSugarPlum100]

What if instead of lifting the screed on the back stroke you changed the sequence to screed, laser, z lowered, backstroke, hopper raised, screed rinse and repeat 😎

[@BeetleBuns]

that's so cool... even the failed benchys looked cool in their own way, they REALLY looked like wrecks that had been wasting away in the salt for a few years

[@1992jamo]

Holy Fudge. That came out freaking amazingly!

[@alex4alexn]

almost 50k subs, you are reaching critical mass! thanks for the vids

[@marsrover001]

Worked way better than expected, that's a win.

[@XenKaidos]

This is actually really cool, even with the 'defects'. Could you try to make a glass sphere like that? Obviously it won't be solid, but you could try to do a close-to solid version and a hollow version. Hollow version would be cool for putting fiberoptic lights throughout. Even filling the 'finished' print with resin would be an amazing effect.

[@SciFiSi]

Brilliant build.....just goes to show what you can do when you put your mind to it.

[@Vikingwerk]

That worked way better than I would imagine!

[@britzwickit]

This deserves a follow up, really cool project!

[@cheezwissle5]

Use cam rollers and a plasma cut track to raise the wiper.

[@k992-o6r]

7:10 that AL peice falling into the melting was super satisfying (idk how readable my writing is, I'm drunk as fuck rn)

[@onesadtech]

I got a couple minutes into this video and went, 'Hold on, is this the DIY metal 3D printer dude?' Hahaha, should have known, good stuff man!

[@deepmaze1]

Amazing craftsmanship. So satisfying to watch the metal work.

[@RPrice_OG]

If you can find some I'd like to see powdered aluminum instead of sand. Also, some kind of removeable plate for the first layer to bond to to reduce failures. Thanks for another great video.

[@ericmeyers8787]

That is so fucking cool man. Which is really the important point.

[@WeBeGood06]

3M Glass Bubbles, instead of broken glass medium. Tiny little spheres, floating bubbles of glass, with tiny wall thickness to allow the tiny laser to melt the glass quicker. Not sure what the the contraction will look like, but maybe you'll be making a glass foam benchy that actually floats. Even with all the holes in the hull.

[@wildniscamper7276]

a rolling recoater compacts the material so the part will lose less volume while melting and cooling.. awesome result! try a vacuum chamber and preheating and try pa2200 nylon powder..could be an very usefull upgrade. cheers

[@yutub561]

i feel the same way about the 1mm nozzle. I went from 9 hours to 45 minutes with one of my parts switching from .4 to 1 mm. love that thing ps your vids are so sick man. youre insanely talented and smart. Im an engineer and tinikerer/builder/machinist/fab and couldnt do half of what you do.

[@CNCKitchen]

Impressive work, man!

[@cranktowncity]

Thanks a lot man!

[@FinlayShellard]

That's so nice man, really came out a treat. Also absolutely after you use a 1mm nozzel you can't go back.

[@randomname4726]

Lol I have tried 1mm and it's great for big prints but it's all about the right nozzle for the job... I'd like to see anyone print what I print with a .15mm nozzle with a 1mm 😜

[@dav1dsm1th]

Very cool. I wish you lived closer - as I've got several kilos of magnetic laser toner that could be interesting to experiment with. It's used to print bank cheques that are machine readable. Really fine powder - with the added bonus of being partially iron... Maybe you could source some locally and have a play with it. Stay safe out there.

[@Nobe_Oddy]

THIS. WAS. AWESOME!!!

[@scottn9492]

I'm sure the "rotating screeter thing" helps pack in the material to smooth out the layers and reduce gaps.

[@thought_farm]

i appreciate how much work goes into these videos

[@MrLiamHenderson]

This is amazingly good. This is a 20 watt laser, just imagine the damage the 60KW US military laser is capable of. I wish there was a demo vid on YT :/ New subscriber mate, excellent work. Love ur vids

[@customsolutionsinc]

Could try plastic powder like a usual sls, might check laser focus as well.... pretty cool project dude.

[@USA0312]

My recommendations have once again blessed me. Dude this is one of the coolest things ever, and the fact you made it yourself is awesome!! You're also super funny, definitely sticking around after watching this!

[@chriscalderon1337]

This is awesome! I love how you hack together crazy stuff like this.

[@SKYWURX]

Great DIY engineering. Really nice fabrication. Sorta dry humour coupled with funny edits. Totally subbed to the channel 😃👍

[@obsidianjane4413]

@12:35 "Like a spider wearing a sombrero" Now you have a paint scheme for it.

[@dontquestionjustbelieve5757]

This is the best editing ive seen in a very very long while. i just found your channel and i looked to see how many subs you have and i'm in awe that you dont have a few million, youre content is so good

[@FCFDave]

You can also sinter powder coat paint, the stuff is cheap and can be sintered even with a 5w output power diode.

[@jafinch78]

Different! 🙂 Scissor jack style design came to mind, maybe even one(s) from the salvage yard? Might even be able to use one on a lever for the two. Wait, that'd be too easy. Wondering, since I don't follow the SLS printer designs, if like the spray foam wall shaver things are anything... though yeah... probably nothing alike. Maybe tubes from free treadmills? And now for something completely different, that air line dryer is like a sign or something since was commenting earlier today regarding a prior comment regarding cost effective sources for homebrew screw compressors so can make a tankless system to feed the tank'age.

[@RamesTheGeneric]

Bruh this is actually insane

[@TheLophius]

This is so awesome you could try to sinter some low melting metals like tin, bismuth or higher temp metals mixed with binder which will later burn off in sintering oven. Just found science paper "Laser-Induced Tar-Mediated Sintering of Metals and Refractory Carbides in Air". What could be interesting is to use wax powder for lost wax casting or sugar or pine rosin?

[@seancriggs]

Dude, love it. Major inspiration and ingenuity. Now you can open a shop and sell fish tank ornaments!

[@barabolak]

I've never seen anyone 3d print glass! Good job man! Try using finer sand, and maybe "paint it" black so it could absorb more heat. Mix some kind of graphite powder to it or something.... Also you could try replacing sand with sugar...

[@enpugin]

You're a madman and I'm quickly becoming a big fan of your channel. Great work

[@TheRossWilliams]

Cool, nice work. Would be cool to try using kaolin clay which would make porcelain. Great thing is it super fine and readily available. You might be able to have it a bit damp (glass also) to minimise your dust problems.

[@notsam498]

ah yes, my favorite sell out! 🤣 Awesome work my dude!

[@Coastal_Cruzer]

You've basically made an SLS/SLM printer, nice!

[@ivprojects8143]

Incredible. Really promising results.

[@RkRk-xi7wi]

You just need to build a universal 3d print platform from which you can swap your heads depending on medium. Even that HOTGLUE im waiting for.

[@jerrydaugherty4657]

Dude! You continuously outdo yourself! Well done!

[@FreedomAirguns]

I've seen 40watts (4x 10 watts laser diodes assemblies) upgrades for that model. Also, you may try metallic powders now. It's the most obvious next step. I've seen people cutting through metals in one pass with that laser, it might work fine.

[@zachthomson8689]

Buddy, I just found your channel and I'm hooked. keep doing the thing and I'll be here forever

[@keysimfr]

I love your "joie de vivre", Thanks for your interesting content !

[@sandheaver44]

Hawaii has black sand beaches, maybe black sand would melt better? Or magnetite sand might do something interesting?

[@Thorbrook]

That's cool af tbh. Man always doing some cool.stuff

[@randomname4726]

Epic work dude. Truly inspiring shed engineering.