Crawler Canyon Presents: ICFTW Vol.16. Ep.3, BEHOLD! The inexplicable

[@donmichaelcorbin4417]

Chassis - $150, Electronics - $275, Wheels and Tires - $125, Being entertained while learning to build your own crawler - Priceless

[@nikolus24]

Is there any way too flip the cantilever rockers over? So there is more stroke on the shock side.

[@mfnJOSH]

As with the cantilever rears. Can you please try turning the rockers around? That will swap your mechanical advantage to the other side of the pivot, giving the shocks and springs more leverage.

[@EddieDesigned]

Couple of ideas for those rear shocks. If you have some delrin rod, you could turn some new, more suitable pistons for them. To stiffen up the spring rate, you could add a 2nd set of smaller springs around the shaft, inside the main springs, a little like how internal sprung shocks work , but used externally.

[@dkmgm2011]

There are several good ideas in the comments. Flipping the rockers (if possible) to change the mechanical advantage. Diff fluid in the shocks to add damping. Adding a second spring. Either around the shaft or in the body... maybe both. We believe in you. ❤

[@NTX_RC]

Really highlights how much a fenderless body can increase performance on just about any chassis

[@TheAmericanUhate]

Crows & ravens will purposely poop on people that upsets them, and they'll hold grudges forever, and teach their offspring to carry that grudge, and so on lol. They'll also be your friend for life if you help them out.

[@letsgetitrc]

Am I the only one that watches the intro twice!? 😊

[@francotarantino982]

Me too. I even took an audio clip for my text notification. It's funny. My next one... "A bird almost pooped on me !" Fantastic !!!

[@letsgetitrc]

@@francotarantino982 🤣

[@BrandonM83]

Happppy Sunday Mr canyon 😎😎😎😎😎

[@Loose_Lucy]

That thing is awesome Throwing in some Grateful Dead quotes in the end., I love it

[@brianmassey7563]

My Gmade Pro chassis kit came with the cantilever option (Gmade BOM option). Hardest springs I've ever felt for RC, and had 3 pairs of stiffness. Issue is, as you've noticed, the Gmade shocks require diff fluid for proper dampening, and I don't have any. The shocks were 70mm or less and worked well, but being under-damped it had a tendency to snap-roll on you. Oh, and those were mounted INSIDE the chassis rails. It always felt planted, but was too quick to unload. That rig can CLIMB when attacking straight, but the rear wanted to flex too easy to keep me planted. Gmade also has anti torque twist trans to help with that torque twist. Also, how much of the rear end performance is shock geometry vs. just being fully drooped? just curious.

[@Gibsonlife573]

So very true what a boy said so very true I was wondering about those kyx Knuckles on the SCX10 now I know thank you

[@mfnJOSH]

I experienced the same panhard binding issues. To remedy i used angled and an offset ball ends. Then shaved the top side of the upper ball end to juuuust clear and everything worked perfectly.

[@Andy_Yates]

It doesn't make sense but this guy goes on 3 wheels and you know he's about to pull a line 🔥

[@craigseary2368]

Drill a 1/16" hole just under the seal land on the shock cap, it will let you bleed them properly and they dont leak anywhere near as much and work quite well. Oh and ae green slime the orings.

[@francotarantino982]

"A bird almost pooped on me !" 😂

[@francotarantino982]

20:10 in.... I've been laughing all morning.... Drycleaners!

[@robertvukonich5003]

Try putting them on with the pivot on the cantilever in the back of the truck like a swaybar setup

[@SivartCustomRCs]

I've used the same if not similar cantilever shocks on a TRX4. I ended using an 80mm shock and moved the rear mounting of the shock so that it was already partially compressed. I feel I used 70wt Losi shock oil. They did still feel a bit spongy, but they worked, therefore I didn't mess with them any further

[@SivartCustomRCs]

If ya notice on steep climbs, the cantilever suspension will not unload and almost counter act the weight transfer from the front. I feel almost all successful crawls involve proper weight transfer.

[@fejwe]

I had almost talked myself out of a Gmade because of the pinion issues but now I’m thinking about whether I should pick one up just to have a cantilever setup in the fleet. It’s really impressive. Not sure it’s work for trailing though.

[@tocacarcraze]

Just raised the servo up with spacers and it resolved my issue.

[@snoprosledneck88]

Generally don’t you want the rear springs to be a little stiffer than the front? If so, could you switch the front and rear springs?

[@brianargo1659]

I guess it could be worse. U could be pissed on by an elephant😂😂

[@TheAmericanUhate]

The cantilever triangles have got to be 100 to 1 on the ratio lol. Revo's sold different cantilevers to change the suspension from softer to harder. Basically the long arm going to the axles have all the leverage over the tiny little short side for the shocks. Shorten the long side or extend the short side and it will feel worlds better. If you made new ones with equal length on each side, the shocks would feel the same as if they was mounted upright in the standard setup.

[@fromfin90]

speaking of cantilever, i will have to look into softer springs for the cantilever in my Trailrunner with the Hobbytech Peugeot 504 pickup body :D currently a work in progress so no idea how to adjust it yet

[@lastcreations8845]

4th link the front, offset rod end skinny shaft, or even bent shaft. your upright from r axle is extremely too angled, full compression ideally less then 45 degrees, 10 unloaded, 20-30 ish ride height. long side of pivot can hang down as far as it wants and does not bind the shock throughout travel. Distance of full travel, ratio of pivot, will tell you travel of shock length required. GTS green are .54 or 4.7in/lb, blue is .61 or 5.4in/lb, dont know your rear weight or ratio of that pivot to find a range but you are going to need more.

[@derrickhays3627]

Traxxas makes a 1/16 slash-revo that uses cantilever the shocks are shorter and smaller diameter maybe an option? Was thinking of doing cantilever on my 10.2 so this really helps thanks!

[@Shakermt]

The nameless one vs Daphine vs Hardline, the battle of the truggies.

[@JPWirt]

I think you've accidentally named this one too..."Nothin' Fancy"?

[@ekpauly]

Flip the yellow springs to the rear, swap the rear towers R to L, move them as forward as possible. 10.2 honcho free mods 2016. Don’t do the cantilever, a waste o& time on this build,and dd rear weight. Save it for a drop bed that you can’t cut.

[@brianargo1659]

Dont change springs try putting some really thick diff oil in those back shocks

[@brianargo1659]

Thats y i think a 4 link setup in the front with no panhard is a way better setup because u get a way better articulation even with a chassis mounted steering servo. And what I did to keep my shawkat's really cannot took and cut a small strip of Teflon tape and put on there

[@donmichaelcorbin4417]

I never understood the getting pooped on by a bird being good luck trope. Chicken farmers must be the luckiest people in the world....

[@brianargo1659]

Try putting some thick diff oil in those back shocks

[@brianargo1659]

If u havent tried putting some thick diff oil in those back shocks it might work. But im sure someone had already told u that😂

[@brianargo1659]

And his name can be KENNY LEVER!😂😂

[@brianargo1659]

Put some thick diff oil in those back shocks

[@Team_ReVolt]

14:31 REDCAT cough cough 😂😂😂

[@Team_ReVolt]

@Crawler Canyon this was an awesome, very educational episode! About your reference to the Element builders kit... Wouldn't the shocks be better? Which cateliver set did you buy?

[@brianargo1659]

I agree about the diff covers. Can u not paint those black? Ive asked many of KZbinrs if they can do that no one has said or done it

[@johngleason9667]

Try 1/16 revo springs

[@brianargo1659]

Put some 1million diff oil in those back shocks

[@michaelbiermaier9395]

The name L.S.T from your words long strange trip.kind of like a drug but not quite

[@brianmorrison2846]

Lol 2S hardbody 😂

[@Loose_Lucy]

They did the same thing with the RYFT you only get the bottom of the servo saver if you use the Spektrum micro servo ! Total BS

[@CrawlerCanyon]

Yeah Racing makes an aluminum adapter that allows you to use the standard Spektrum saver with any 25T Futaba spline servo. amzn.to/3pPhsgp Now we just need one of two things to happen: Yeah Racing to make the same adapter but for 25T micro spline (so we can use "proper" micro servos in applications that require them,) OR Axial to end their love affair with the SX107, which is one of the worst servos I've ever encountered in my entire life. Just put a full-size servo in there. I still hate paying $50-60 for a micro servo, because the same money buys 800oz in fullsize. And a JX4409MG is 15 bucks.

[@Loose_Lucy]

@@CrawlerCanyon Thanks It just came in the mail yesterday I made my own which seems to be working for now

[@neildaniels5443]

Please cut da fenders , too much angry lexan noises 😢

[@brianargo1659]

Read my other comment and if u have a free moment let me know what u think

[@idiot_RC]

I'm probably in the minority here, but I prefer brushed setups. Brushed > Brushless Outrunner > Brushless Inrunner. I don't know what it is, there's just something about the feel of a quality brushed setup. Now, I've got plenty of outrunners in the fleet as well, but my go-to is a good Brood brushed motor and a Holmes BR Mini ESC.

[@CrawlerCanyon]

That's the real Achille's Heel of the brushed setup-- to get that feel, you gotta spend more than you would for a near bulletproof outrunner/inrunner setup. And those theoretically never wear out. I sometimes get the feeling that holding on to brushed is like holding on to a carburetor. The market for $100+ brushed setups has to be small now, as a Fusion SE is around 70 bucks.

[@idiot_RC]

@@CrawlerCanyon yeah, it's definitely not economical. Funny you should reference a carburetor though, as one of my daily drivers is still a carbureted 454. Part of my love for brushed setups is the maintenance aspect...I have a comm lathe and I enjoy truing comms and replacing brushes and springs, playing with mechanical timing, etc. I suppose if I think hard about it I might consider outrunners a bit of a "cheater" motor in that they're just "installed perfection," but at the end of the day I'm probably just a motor snob.