Replacing Cam Bearings In AFM DOD LS Based Engine

Deep dive into bearing replacement for the camshaft of a LS based engine. I also cover one of the oil pressure loss concerns for the vehicles equipped with AFM also known as DOD which is the main source for all AFM failures.
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Automotive technician

[@thisoldjunk5752]

Glad to see I’m not the only one with a “full table”

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

It just means you're a busy guy right? I had 3 engines torn down during this clip.

[@edwardbarr5163]

"if you don't you will break the inner collar" said in a tone that says I've made that mistake before LOL.

[@jameswag8473]

Thank you for recommending this video after another comment I made on another video.

[@coltond5232]

Great video! Followed your video as a guide and the install was flawless. Appreciate the great content.

[@DrFiero]

@22:50 - I've always installed #1 & 2 with the installer going in from the back. Just take it off the stand and put the block on a table/box/floor. I think we have the identical installer! Case is even the same color.

[@brandondimmitt8467]

Bro I love this channel! Appreciate all the knowledge sharing 🙏

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Glad to hear it I will keep them coming.

[@brandondimmitt8467]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair please do my friend! I'm trying to find a base c6 for my son and i to start building! Keep it up man! Hope this blows up for you!

[@fm-lq7rn]

Just a heads up they do make a wide bearing 0.765 part number is cc433wp

[@Giorobot]

Thanxs a lot man this video is gold to me am about to replace these bearings since I already replaced the 0 ring and the screen and still only 20 psi oil pressure thanks for all of the details I'll watch couple times more and of course subscribe also

[@WendzDarKnight08]

26:15 Thank you! My cam feels stiff when I try to turn by hand. However when I put the bolt in, I can turn it. I think I’ll zip everything back up and just send it.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Yeah it will clean up quickly.

[@JohnDoe-hx1wx]

How'd it go?

[@smithjohn3080]

Use the cone.... don't eyeball it... it has to be in straight which the cone centers it. Also clean your cam and relube with assembly lube

[@gordonbryan8381]

At the 5:15 point in the video you show the parting line where the straight piece of steel was wound around a mandrel to produce a round bearing. I don't know that I have ever heard any other LS content produce mention that. To the GM engineer who came up with this idea: what a CHICKENSHIT cheap ass way to produce one of the most critical parts in the engine. Ever try to change one of these, GM engineer? Crazed: great videos as usual.

[@sanger440]

Very detailed thank you. If you buggerd up one of the bearings with the tool do you replace the bearing or can you file or sand paper the edge a bit, assuming you can get to it if the crank is out?

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

You want to avoid abrasive, instead I find a way to get a knife edge in there. It is usually very easy to peel off a small amount of material and you only ever need to do it to the very edge. Be sure not to cut into the large flat at all if possible. Only the 1/16 or so from the edge part. If you do hit further in use your better judgement and possibly just get another set of bearings.

[@jonperley7304]

Replace the bearing remember what you have been through to get the Motor out and apart for 30 bucks more it's not worth the risk!!!🤔

[@jameswiz]

Hey buddy. Just wanted to give you a heads up on some info I've discovered over the past 15 years.. Alum VS Babbitt bearings. My experience is that Alum bearings hold up much better for long term use, and "race" bearings (are babbitt) which can handle higher HP are used in racing because the manufacturer expects them to be replaced more often.. Here is an article talking about the alum vs Babbitt... I will post the website below the section I'm posting... IMO, alum bearings, Cam, Crank or Rods. Just hold up better.... -------------THE ARTICLE ------- To meet the demands of higher loads and operating temperatures in modern engines as well as the requirements imposed by high performance, babbitt has been replaced by an alloy of aluminum. This aluminum alloy is much stronger than babbitt and will withstand several times the load which causes babbitt to fatigue or extrude. However, this added strength is obtained at the expense of some of the more forgiving properties of babbitt. The aluminum alloy is harder, making it somewhat less compatible with dirt, misalignment and marginal lubrication. This is typical of the compromises or trade offs that are frequently necessary when selecting a bearing material to suit the requirements of a specific application and in this case, higher loading. www.mahle-aftermarket.com/na/en/support/installation-tips/cam-bearings-perf-tips.jsp

[@shaunswanson7390]

I have an LS2 with a spun cam bearing. Have you dealt with this? Are the blocks typically junk at that point?

[@MOAB]

I decided not to go with the delete kit and I put in 8 new AFM lifters. I had one collapsed lifter Cyl. #4. Cleaned everything up very thorough, and reinstalled. I removed the screen at oil pressure sensor. Fired truck up runs on 8 now but quite a bit of ticking more so on cylinder 1 or 3. I let it warm up for at least 10 minutes for lifters to pump up. Oil pressure very good. Removed valve cover started up and oil shot out of rocker arms on #1 cylinder 20 feet in the air. All rockers looked like they were getting lubricated. 2007 chevy Avalanche 233,000 miles. I don't think the oil should shoot out that much, what do you think| thank you Bruce.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

One of the new lifters you installed is junk. These things normally hardly have oil come out of rockers until you rev it up.

[@MOAB]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair That's what I thought. I went cheap made in China crap. I have never seen oil shoot out like that. Usually just a dribble or light spray. How does this bad lifter direct the oil out the rocker, like that? How should it flow. Even old lifters that don't pump up any more don't spray like that. I am just trying to understand what is happening here.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaHMc6CXbLakjbc I think it has to do with the little wave plate in the hydraulic side of the lifter.

[@MOAB]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I did not see that video before. That is exactly what mine is doing. But cylinder #1 lifters are shooting oil out like a squirt gun and I believe cylinder 3 is knocking. I will try your slow motion camera trick. That was incredible. If there is a blockage on #3 than maybe that is making the new DOD lifters in cylinder 1 shoot the oil out the rocker so far. I believe the oil comes from the pump and starts at cyl 1 that 3 than 5 than 7 down the rail. I am not sure of that I don't have an oil flow diagram. Thank you great videos.

[@TheOlah]

Great vid thanks for the info! I currently am working with my 07 Yukon 6.2 L92 without DOD with VVT. Has 140k. Had the heads of recently for a head gasket and replaced lifters while I had the heads off and also replaced the oil pickup tube o-ring. I am getting an intermittent code for a P0011 intake camshaft position timing over-advanced. In conjunction my oil pressure reads at idle when cold around 40 PSI. After driving for a while and letting sit at a hot idle, i am getting anywhere from 14,18PSI. Seems low to me. When the code sets while driving it is usually coming on at a higher RPM which is usually mid 30ish oil pressure. Thinking could be anything from oil pressure issues due to oil pump relief, worn cam bearings, or VVT actuator solenoid? Any thoughts? Originally I was just concerned about the low oil pressure when hot although I am not getting any engine noise. I do have a tech II where I can test the VVT solenoid and the variance checks out to be fine even when the code is current. I was thinking of replacing oil pump with a high volume melling and the VVT components. When the codes not set it runs normal although I do get a very slight miss on a cold start. Thanks for your help!

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Shoot me a message on my website, copy and past if you like. That's a long one haha it's late now so not ready to answer and don't want to forget you. Link in description.

[@TheOlah]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Sent, thanks!

[@tokslut]

Thanks for the video, where is the "screen"(@10:12) located?

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

It is located right underneath the oil pressure sensor.

[@scottringold7584]

Is it possible to diagnose bad cam bearings without pulling the cam? Can the VLOM cause extremely low oil pressure? And if I do the VLOM mod and ECU tune, will I need to do the cam bearings, or can I run much lower pressure with AFM deleted? 08 5.3 LC9, 215k miles, low oil pressure collapsed a lifter (all lifters were done 20k miles ago when I did the top end) oil pump o-ring was good, but replaced anyway. VLOM screen was clean, but replaced, sensor replaced and reading verified on mechanical gauge. I have zero consumption issues, but pressure when hot is often below 20 when driving, and under 10 at idle. Pretty certain this is my issue, but don’t wanna do all the work of course if there’s another way! Thanks for all you do, love the channel and ordered the stuck lifter tool today! Cheers from MN

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Check to see if any lifters are puking oil out the pushrod tubes. If not it is most likely that stinking cam bearing considering what you have done so far. That oil pressure is quite low...

[@stephenjohnston226]

👍👍👍

[@FoFoCowboy]

What's the probability of successfully replacing at least the first 2 front cam bearings like this while engine is in truck? I feel like it is very possible if all that is really worn is the front bearings and all that needs to be remedied is low oil psi.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Very good. Oil pan and windage tray have to come off. Then you have to fight gravity, limited space, the struggle of lining up oil holes, and connecting rods in the way.

[@FoFoCowboy]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair does it really matter if all of the bearings are not the same batch?

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

@@FoFoCowboy no, it will be fine to replace the front 2 only. As long as the rest look ok and they typically do.

[@3madeamps]

i just had my 6.2 out .. i did a d.o.d afm vvt delete .a new hv oil pump .. now 30 psi hot 40 cold .. i didnt do a cam bearing replacement . maybe i fucked up !

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Bummer, well it should be ok for a while still. I would get more concerned if it starts to get close to 20psi hot. After all, with AFM deleted the engine doesn't need a hole lot of idle oil pressure.

[@Hellcat287287]

A new high volume pump? Couple of things, pretty much all LS vehicles i've seen that don't have an oil cooler once hot, i mean like driving for 20 minutes hot idle between 25-30. As long as the pressure goes up with rpm I wouldn't be concerned. Now DoD delete... vehicles with DoD have a 30psi pressure relief valve in the oil pan if you didn't plug that; even if you got a standard pressure pump you're likely to see 30psi at idle anyway, and THEN standard pumps have 20psi relief valve. You're probably good for the long haul but if it bothered you, either shim the HV or replace the pump with a STANDARD pressure mellings or a HP/HV pump. Hope this helps, all information was from experience.

[@shadowopsairman1583]

Disable afm/dod and replace with non afm/dod parts, that goes for any engine, blue oval is the worst on it.

[@jonperley7304]

I'm going through this with my 04 GMC sierra 2500 HD GM needs to be sued for this and recall them all every one of them!!! It's always no 2 they also back out of the cam Journal to remove your oil pan and and baffle plate and look up at no. 2 Journal to the rear of the Motor if you see any part of the bearing pull your motor you will never get good oil pressure out of it!!! Like I said GM needs to be held RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS PROBLEM!!! PS the tool that Sumit sells is a must better tool and is under 80 dollars plus shipping! The last bearing install it from the rear of the Motor and use the centering cone use common sense!!! And one can turn the cam by hand if all the bearings are installed correctly you shouldn't have to put a bolt on the end of the cam to turn it its binding for what ever reason I'm 70 years old and have been working for GM dealers for a very long time!!!

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Gm will never recall the bearing issues. It's not safety related. The last bearing is a bit hard to install from the rear with an engine stand in the way. Especially when it's not at all hard to install with the tool. Why not just leave engine on the stand till you're done? Adding a bolt to turn it is needed regardless of and binding. How else would you propose grabbing it to turn it when all the way in? There's nothing to grab hold of lol. Plus it double as a way to make sliding it in and out more stable so you don't damage bearings. If it does bind it's typically from the install tool hitting the edge funky somewhere do to installer error/mistake. It's not uncommon and as simple as touching the damaged spot in a certain way with a knife like tool. Of course one needs to make sure not to damage the main surface.

[@28ghz]

I did a DOD delete on my 2007 gmc yukon xl 5.3 and guess who didn't change the cam bearings, 🗣ME!!!! THATS WHO 🥲😅

[@smithjohn3080]

Also just pull the crank 😂

[@4real4now]

Great video. But removing and installing cam bearings has to be done with the block on a solid table, not on an engine stand. Front cam bearing have to be removed from the back.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Been doing it this way for years now so it doesn't have to be done on solid table. It does make it easier to do it on a table I suppose. Perhaps my next shop will have a nice solid engine table and I'll try it even though this way works fine.