Unboxing And Review Of Cheap Amazon Cam Bearing Installation Tool

We were looking for a moderate priced cam bearing installation tool when we noticed this ultra bargain set was made up of exactly the same components as name brand examples selling for more than twice the price, so we pulled the trigger and put it to use on one of our engines.
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[@kenadams3385]

I have that same cam bearing tool. If I'm not mistaken you can put the expander on the longer handle and leave the shorter handle in the box. It's a little easier to work with that way. I think the shorter handle was made as an extension for L6 engines where you need to reach deeper into the block. Also, when I do cam bearings, I set the block on the floor, standing straight up. That way you can swing straight down and use gravity to your advantage.

[@iamnoone.]

Yes I have the same one you can put the end on the long bar you only need the long and short one on inline 6 cylinders

[@UncleTonysGarage]

AaaHA!!! I probably should have read the directions....

[@rafaelallenblock]

@@UncleTonysGarage RTFM

[@baby-sharkgto4902]

No joke, on KZbin I learn just as much in the comments as I do the videos

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@grandmasmalibu The best part is when years after the fact people are still commenting, despite pinning the comment, telling him how to use the tool. So... It's more like your Dad has dementia, or you're stuck in ground hog day, and you hear about the same mistake over and over and over and over... KZbin is fun. 🤣😂

[@gofastparts4u]

Enginetech bearings are produced for them by King Bearings in Israel. Summit's house brand bearings are the same thing. Enginetech piston rings are Hastings and the gaskets are Victor Reinz. All of that stuff is actually very high quality.

[@autohospitalcarcarellc.1116]

Thank God somebody said it. Most people just don't take the time to find out

[@jjbailey01]

I occasionally sell Enginetech sets at work. Haven't heard a complaint from customers.

[@TheNachris720]

I have that same cam bearing install tool set, I've used it about 3 times now. Works every time like a charm, no complaints here. I was in same boat seeing about $150-400 and decided to just go with a throwaway cam bearing install unit.

[@topenddean]

@13:15 something falls out of what should be a clean engine block.

[@Chevyv8man1]

Hey Tony, You can take the lock ring and stuff off of the short shaft and put it on the long shaft so you don't have to use both shafts according to the instruction video. This way you don't have to use both shafts and have to be so far away from the bearing when hammering them into the block. Hope this helps you to make the installation easier. Later

[@mikemaccracken3112]

Yup. You can also twist the shaft and hold the wrench to expand the arbor.

[@christinamoneyhan5688]

Tony is like a friend I know, he never, never reads the information papers. It more than likely said about different assembly procedures for the tool.

[@kurtzimmerman1637]

I made a cam bearing removal/ installation tool back in about 1982. one piece of billet steel turned down on a lathe. set it up like a slide hammer. worked perfect! thanks Tony.

[@mitchbertone3809]

Great line " Who's got time to read it". Says everyone who has time to do it twice.... As always, a great video Tony !

[@TomSmith-cv8hk]

Yer but who's got time to watch a Video, unless of course Tony's in it.

[@msmeyersmd8]

Of course, the English translation from the Chinese in the abbreviated* instructions/manual always makes things perfectly clear. *that's being generous

[@colesgarage666]

Made at the factory across the street from the plastic glasses, nose and mustache factory, next door to the rubber dog shit and whoopee cushion assembly plant...

[@davelewis2174]

the expander will unscrew from the short shaft and attach to the longer one making it about a foot shorter

[@tomcummings655]

bought the same tool-since 90% of home builders are doing small-block Chevys,a couple of notes= the bearing holder that works for SB is a snug fit without being expanded at all,next smaller one is Too small.Next surprise is the bearing has to be put on the holder AFTER bearing and holder is put in the cam tunnel-put it together first and it's too big to fit between the bottom of the cylinder walls. Then discovered the black tapered steel expander on the driver is slightly too big to slide into the bearing holder since there is no room to expand with the snug bearing fit-grinder reduced dia enough.Another tip is do cam bearings BEFORE putting engine in the stand OR modify your engine stand so you access the bearings through the back of the block while in the stand,#5 bearing is tough to get in the right location front to back and sometimes need to drive it forward to correct position.All that being said,I was able to install my fisrt cam bearings since tech school 50+years prior!! nice smooth turning cam with no hand fitting needed!!

[@u121921]

Had a similar experience at a chain parts store . Was finally the time to replace the factory starter installed in nov 95 in my work truck . wanted the basic rebuilt since i had 2 other used up starters that i had been using to replace wear parts . I found the bargain rebuilt in stock and went to pick it up . The kid behind the counter is telling me i want the "Gold" version as the cheapo is nothing but trouble - I told him i used to work the counter back in the day of Real Auto parts and just bring both out so we can compare to see if it's really worth twice the price . Both the fancy box and the white box had the same new Chinese starter inside .

[@DerekCastleSr.]

The only difference is the warranty. Same as batteries.

[@davidfarrell1167]

I love the engine blocks laying everywhere like cadavers in Dr Frankensteins lab waiting to be re-animated. Lol

[@johnnydodge]

Do they serve the #3 Hunan Chicken or #6 Foo Yon You in this place

[@msmeyersmd8]

This video is why it's great for someone like me to watch Tony charge right ahead to get things done. My Dad was like that. But, since he was USAF trained P-80 mechanic, he never winged it. No pun intended. Aviation is incredibly unforgiving. He got things done. As a kid, I watched him build a 1929 Model from junk with 1940 Ford hydraulic brakes and wheels. Initially with poured Babbitt bearings that I watched him fo with his friend and B-52 Navigator. All done while he was an Aircraft Commander and flew 10-engine B-36s (6x 28 cylinder R-4360 ci radial piston 3800 HP engines plus 4 J-57 turbojets). That he always said he was glad he didn't have to maintain. Then 8-J-57 turbojet engined B-52s. Look up "6 Turning and 4 Burning" on KZbin if you've never seen it. Amazing. Less than 10 minute video. I've never installed cam bearings. It's not that I'm afraid...No..it is because I'm afraid I'll Eff it up. I'll read voluminous amounts of information which is always conflicting. Use this lube or this grease. By god, don't use this oil or grease. Same with videos. After all that I'll be totally confused but I'll have learned how the cam bearings were installed differently in an American built Packard Merlin V-12 vs a Rolls-Royce British built Merlin V-12 V-1649 ci aircraft engine during WWII. www.jrcengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Packard-Merlin.pdf And I'll still not be certain as to how to install the cam bearings in my engine. It a tragic synergism between OCD and, very easily distracted ADD. I become like Tony who has incredible amounts of of knowledge AND experience. Except I never finish anything. C'est la Vie.

[@TomSmith-cv8hk]

Just get my local machine shop to turn up individual one piece installers as I need them, no expanders etc, all solid steel correctly sized, yep a lot of them only ever get used once. Too easy.

[@bradeggebraaten2141]

I sure am grateful for your channel. I'm about to install some cam bearings using the exact same tool into a 99 ranger 3.0 that I've been rebuilding. I've learned so much watching your channel, and have used a lot of your advice. Thank you for your willingness to share all your hard earned experience, it's greatly appreciated.

[@baileyhatfield4273]

I bought a cheap amazon kit like that for winding in the screw in calipers for my familys car...was like 30 40 bucks MAX, Canadian, has all the adaptors ect you need from VW to Hyundai ect. Only time it ''broke'' was when i put a wrench on the pre supplied handle. Caliper was seized. Not product fault just a user error. I still use it too. Handle just bend and i said oh well. One job and its paid off already.

[@tpcoachfix]

How do you remove/install the front cam bearing if you can't seat the cone against the front bearing? Do you put the tool in from the rear of the block? Oh wait, maybe I should read the directions.

[@rcnelson]

As usual this is a very instructive video. And Uncle indirectly points out the problem that faces most of us: buying cheap Chinese/Taiwanese tools that work adequately well instead of better quality American tools. I have a 1997 Lisle cam bearing tool that was made in America. I bought it from a local auto store in a small town knowing that I wouldn't get the lowest price possible. Adjusted for inflation, it would now cost $316--a whale of a difference from $64, needless to say. So I get it. But if we always insist on the cheapest price no matter what, we will often (not always, as Uncle showed with the above useful cheapo tool) get inferior garbage tools and parts and then wonder why. Somewhere along the line we either support better parts by being willing to pay for them, or stop whining about trash that we inflicted on ourselves.

[@TheBrokenLife]

My Front Wheel Drive bearing service kit is from the same company (OMT/Orion Motor Tech). I've put it through a shocking amount of abuse and it's been fine for a guy at home doing this and that once in awhile. I can't even find a US made version to compare it to, but I probably couldn't afford it if I could. Snap-On's master puller kit doesn't come with bearing adapters and it's $4300...

[@JimmyMakingitwork]

I find most of the inexpensive tools I've bought on Amazon have done pretty well. When we aren't using them 2 or 3 times every day for years, these inexpensive versions are fine, usually.

[@ronaldflack2840]

Just picked up the same tool off Market Place and expected cheap. Turned out not bad at all, used it to knock out SBC Cam Bearings with ease. Used a dead blow hammer, just to see if it would work, and to my surprise it worked like a champ. Yes you can leave the short extension in the box until needed for the longer blocks. The one problem I see with it is that the hammer end does not transfer to the short bar. We will make one to use on the short bar. Going to try on a couple race engines and see how long it lasts.

[@lau12342]

I bought the same tool, came from Germany, works okay. My two previous sets of cam bearings were made in Colombia. This tool comes in few different flavours (depends of where you buy it) 👍

[@scottrobertson6949]

I just used this unit to do my first cam bearing removal and install on a 351C block. It works fine for you to drive the cam bearings out with the cone positioned at the front for the rear 3 and at the back for the front 2. I found out the hard way by damaging 2 cam bearings beyond reuse that this block could only have bearings fitted pushing in from the front because is has a chamfer to the tunnel hole where the rear of the hole doesn't. Fitting the rear 3 from the front. You have to have the correct size arbor and rubber sleeve firmly tightened. The bearings with a film of oil in the tunnel and the back of bearing went it beautifully with not a mark on them. I started to think this would be a breeze. I test fitted the cam in the rear 3. Spun beautifully. Okay this is where the trouble began with this tool. I thought I would knock the front 2 in with the centering cone at the rear. Even with the chamfer on the leading edge of the bearing it wasn't happy going in and the mandrel bruised the back edge up in some places. After I knocked it through I noticed the block machining difference. Fortunately I had another set of bearings to have a new no2. It has to go in from the front. You can't easily remove the steel cap to put on the shorter extension so you have to use the longer one only which does put your eyes further away from where you want to watch. You don't want the m/caps on so you can see the hole in the cam bearing center. No 2 went in beautifully. (BTW you need a heavy weight hammer). Now the tool is not reversible where you can cone center from the rear and drive the front bearing in from the front. I tried from the rear and it cocked and I ruined another bearing. To ensure you're driving in true you really need to use the center cone but how do you do the front bearing??Unless you have another Cleveland block to put in front. The tool has a short coming- is the problem. Because the job took way longer than I anticipated and needing to get it done I took a careful punt and eyeballed the extension on the two planes. Fortunately it went in nicely and I got it square .030"from the thrust plate face. Tested the cam and it spun freely! The rubber on the inner expander had already started to split. That will be a problem because it holds the colletts together. I'm sending it back because it's not a long term tool you can be confident in doing any block. I hope this helps someone. Regards Scott

[@glennjames7107]

Every time I buy any of these cheap tools, (of which it seems I buy many as of late) I take the tool, or set, completely apart, and deburr, polish, lubricate, or anything else I see needs to be done. Then I put it back together, clean, and well preserved, or use it to do the job. A lot of these tools aren't too bad, they really just need to be finished. Of course the metals, and the materials are usually of lesser quality than a higher priced tool, but in the hands of an experienced mechanic, they'll work fine. Often, surprisingly good!

[@jamesblair9614]

In keeping with your new policy of verifying all dimensions first, should you try each bearing on a camshaft first, or measure them to reassure yourself that they are what they claim to be. Another thing, I saw this done on Nick’s Garage, and I thought it was smart, he test fits the cam for rotation smoothness after each individual bearing is installed, so you know where to look for the bad actor if the cam suddenly gets tight.

[@throbbinwoodofcoxley6830]

That’s a lot of in and out with a cam, not sure I’d risk damaging a bearing. As long as you keep the tool tight and be careful, the cam will fit fine.

[@RickBurris]

Hello UT. I just got my cam tool from summit today. Using it on a 302 ford. Just watched your video and it made it easy to get the bearings out. Tomorrow putting them in. Thanks for the info on the video.

[@bobkasparek7814]

Lisle is still made in the USA just got another one since my 30 year old never returned for whom ever lol

[@karlbaker1943]

You have shown your real colors on this one! Take the extension off so your not so far off the front of block? Do cam bearing with block on a sturdy table, no stand! I could go on??

[@mackyarbrough570]

I have a lisle I love it when it comes to engine building I am a firm believer quality tools help give quality work

[@prancstaman]

I got the same one. Summit racing for like $70. Worked good, no complains.

[@peterchristlieb]

Truth be told, I’ve had the Lisle since the 90s before we had Amazon, and the manufacturer wasn’t selling the same thing on eBay yet. I was working for Valley Head in Northridge CA (A few blocks from Landy one direction and Lambeck in the other at the time and everyone out here had the Durabond Remover/Installer. I used the Lisle way more often for installation especially on small Chryslers. As you probably know the Durabond expanders all have super sharp edges and it’s super easy to scar up the cam bores on a 273-360. The Brown bands on the Lisle and you have zero issues. I spun up a shorty handle for mine about 6 or 7 inches long in case you have to do a front cam bearing in the chassis.

[@paul44235]

I was hoping you were going to No Name Nationals.

[@slickrick5735]

Fiddling around dropping stuff running to the toolbox for a wrench … just like real life and keeping it real. Awesome!

[@Barncaster1]

Hi Tony, would throwing the bearings in the freezer before installation help by reducing their OD a few microns?

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

I've always used a set of nuts and washers on a long piece of 1" all thread and a wrench so I could slowly press them in, rather than hammer them in. In the future I aim to use my new 250 ton press which has been expressly designed so I can press anything up to 36" deep [which includes most non-commercial engine blocks and some commercial ones]

[@royderouin7510]

Great idea ,....that's what I would do

[@wainfiggitty]

I only go hand tight on the expander. If you wrench the bearing tight it'll ever so slightly expand the bearing and makes it harder to hammer in. I also have an end piece I made to thread onto the short portion I can hammer against and use that for the final bearing if I am doing it with it on the stand. Lastly I shine a light in the bore and look down the oil passage to see how well it's lined up.

[@Mynextproject_74]

Would you do a video on how to properly correct misaligned cam bearings?

[@creeksidegarage852]

I got 1 of those a couple years back. It has gouged some bearings on me because it never seems to have the right size for ID of the bearing I'm doing.

[@kendriver9139]

Few months back picked up a durabond ct-1 install set. Guy was done building and getting rid of his tools ended up with it and 2 sunnen p190 guide hone sets and various mandrels.. Bought all for $350. I consider the cam bearing tools a freebie.

[@faulknerfixesall]

thanx again uncle Tony,watched your video and then installed new cam bearings in a ford 300 six. my stand kept wanting to roll so i wedged it against a work bench.and the extension is handy for the 6 bangers for sure.the cheapy tool worked ok as long as you line up the oil holes it will be golden.

[@johnshackelford6965]

East Coast who gi Bob tool $65 cam shaft bearing universal tool got the job done UTG successful.

[@jfiore07]

It's like a 1 time use unless you can make replacement sleeves. It worked for me, but I had 2 rubber peices on and they get shredded but it was the only way to get the results I needed. It did work great though.

[@richardgarris9305]

I just bought an received the same tool. I didn't wanna spend the extra money on something imma use once maybe twice. Good to know that it'll get the job done. Appreciate you doing this review 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼

[@egodeathplease]

If the oil feeds are grooved in the block? I never line the oil.holes up. Seem like you get a little better oil pressure n you have your full bearing on the bottom where all the load is at? What ya think?

[@docfischer7291]

Not for nothing but that set you have is no different than the 12 other companies like ATD, ProTool Snap On , blue point. etc . that slap their sticker on it . Just different color rubber and box colors. I have the Lisle set . Had it probably 30 years now . Same shit , different color . Set yourself up for success but placing the block on the floor and place a couple 2x4 chunks under it to elevate . Oh, and the threaded rod comes out of that short extension. Makes it less “warbly” as Don Olson would have said, LoL

[@andysteele4056]

Cam bearing install tools are for fancy boys. A good assortment of 1/2" drive sockets and a couple feet of extensions and you're golden.

[@michaelvrooman5681]

I have and use one. Make sure the expander piece is aligned with the bearing mandrel or it will break. I also use the long driver with the shorter one as an extension. About the only place I have used both pieces is on a inline six Cummins truck engine..I had a machine shop make me a mandrel for the 855 Cummins engine that works much better than the expandable one in the kit

[@nicholasbentley7351]

Love this style of video Tony, I’m planning on opening a shop in the near future and love seeing reviews of these type of low budget entry tools! So many other content creators try and make the videos into entertainment or are just paid off by the company to falsify a review. Keep it up!

[@petar443]

Thanks Tony for helping the backyard mechanics 👍

[@matthewbegin3462]

I had a snap on can bearing installer. Never used sold it on ebay. I bet you can get a high quality used one for the same price as a cheap one!

[@blacksheep4666]

I have a Blue Point set thats identical to that one, I have used it for about 40 years with no problems.

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

I bought one almost exactly like this from the jungle website, as a feller calls it. I don't remember the brand name but it looks pretty much like this one. I used it on my 6.4l BGE and it worked flawlessly. I love it and will be using it regularly. Even if I have to replace it 2 times it still costs less than the one on JEGS or other parts dealers. Thanks Uncle Tony, you saved me a bunch of money. I love your channel, it would be super cool for me if you took a look at my channel. Keep teaching and I'll keep learning from you.

[@peterchristlieb]

You always gotta check the bearing number against the key in the box or the bearing book. They aren’t always in order

[@scotteric8711]

This is a great tool! The only thing I would do is keep it lightly oiled or otherwise some type of corrosion protection.

[@jodypierson3137]

You didn’t attend the NNN, I thought you were apart of that operation

[@427_FE]

My eyes aren't so good anymore, so I mark the oil hole on the outside of the bearing with a Sharpie, and leave the main caps off to get a better view of the oil passage alignment. You got a nice tool for the money, we had a Goodson, and that cost 450 in '83

[@stuartphillips430]

Was hoping to see the money shot inside the block u.t. your hammer technique has some production value,i guess. I'll wait for part 2.Cheers.

[@TheColors90]

Please do more stuff like this. I quit my engine machining job for better pastures and am finding it very difficult to decide which tools to buy for my home shop. Example: I’m looking at spending 200 for a nice rod clamping vise from Goodson vs a $70 one on Amazon.

[@ericfaley9019]

Like you Tony I normally have a machine shop install cam bearings. I’ve done a few home throw an engine together because you need that vehicle to run. I’ve installed cam bearings on those engines. I used a Snap On set. It wasn’t overly hard or complicated. You just got to make sure to mark the oil holes on the block to get everything lined up. Yes I’d buy that tool if knew I had to do cam bearings on a couple quicky home rebuild jobs.

[@jeanlawson9133]

Tony have you ever used the OTC cam tool that pull's the bearings in place....😎 ,,And yes alignment and trying to be as clean and precise create an oil pressure difference.... completely changing the life of an engine , chamfering also the oil hole and edge's...

[@billrhallowell]

The cam bearing puller I was familiar with in the 1960s also pulled the bearing in place. We would put the bearings in the freezer to reduce the diameter and add Christo to the block. I like the expanding bearing locator your tool has.

[@jeremyhanna3852]

Tony its a 63$ tool I'm not working on any big straight engines so I cut mine off with hacksaw after attemp at using it now its just right for v8 v10 engines

[@pllinc7014]

Put the expansion end on the long push rod, forget about the short extention

[@edmundanderson657]

I've used a few different brands and costs, can't say I was happy with any of them for all engines. The one I hated doing the most was a pinto 2300. There was one or two bearing that were almost impossible to install. You did alright with the cheap tool, with the exception of the handle.

[@topenddean]

"Oh hammer where are you?" If I'm where I should be, I'm in the Tool Box in the drawer with the rest of the hammers.

[@fastcars1173]

I've installed many cam bearings with the $60 set! I have mine set up to use the short bar for the front two bearings and the long bar for the others. It's too long with both and not needed to reach the rear bearing, for V8's of course.

[@itsjustnotlikethat]

Question????? have you ever seen an oil galley plug with a valve to bleed the air out? 1965 mercury 390

[@arthurrodesiler3109]

I hope you put the back one in first and work yourself forward. The first one you install from the back of the block. If you try and put the bearing in the front the bearing will not center itself straight and the cam will not turn very easy. Years ago I bought one just for sbc and bbc and they were solid blocks. Work great. Still have it. Also have one of those universal ones with the rubber rings that hold sleeves together. And it was not cheap. Made by Hasting. A pain to use those. When the rubber rings rot away they cost more than the tool does.

[@leinie6683]

found the same kind of deal on Torque wrench. Cheap store brand vs name brand. Both were fricken Junk. Bought the cheap one- broke it on the first nut. Took it back and bought the name brand and it lasted 3 lug nuts

[@samohtnotslar]

How do you know the bar is fully supported and centered, I see that one end is centered with the cone, but the end with the bearing doesn't seem supported and centered? I have never installed cam bearings, so I am asking.

[@rickkings2071]

I usually install them with 3-5 hits. Hand sledge works nice for me. The machine shop I worked for told me the less amount of hits the better. Not sure if thats true but I imagine he would know. I used a cheap one worked fine also. My engine broke in 500 miles no cam issues so does it matter maybe, maybe not

[@MrOnelegnick]

Still use my dads cam bearing installer that he machined in high-school!

[@christophersambuco9414]

I thought that you were going to bring the Bottle Rocket to No Name Nationals

[@greghardy7239]

Am wondering about the clearances, as in crank and rod bearings?

[@pghgeo816]

What tells you what cam bearing goes in what journal ?

[@ben68442]

good to see a tool demo. I'm about to pick up a piston ring compressor. How about doing a video on all the tools needed for an engine build, micrometer, dial bore gauge etc....

[@scotcoon1186]

If you can swing it, get the compressor with the handle. Almost lost a finger to a tin sleeve one. I will spend the money before rebuilding another n14.

[@alexandertaylor1954]

That would be a great video

[@alrui]

A piece of metal with a couple holes and bolts (maybe some spacers between the metal and the block as well) to secure the cone to the block would help a lot so one wouldn't have to worry about the cone moving, etc.

[@jimmattingly4234]

I do around 50 sets a year I use my old driver set to remove and new 1 to install driver I have looks just like the one you have it has install around 200 set of bearings

[@michaelosborne513]

I have the same one used it for my flathead worked great

[@davidedgar2818]

I remember my boss buying one from Snap On in the 80's. It cost in excess of 200 dollars. There wasn't much difference from that. I always consider the cost versus the amount of use. If I might use it once, against a tool that I might use in multiple uses, ( I live on a farm) , I might buy an adequate tool at a cheaper price.

[@phoenixrising4573]

So I have a stupid question. The cam bearings are a slightly smaller OD depending on which hole they go in? I've never atually seen this done, just "the cam bearings need to be refit.....*video cuts*....now with our new cam bearings installed..."

[@scotcoon1186]

Larger in front, smaller in back. Gives you clearance as the cam journals go through the other bearings.

[@edmundanderson657]

Some not all are this way, some are all the same size. I used to scratch the top of the inside of the bearing for orientation then number them while taking them out.

[@95Sn95]

I have a cheapie cam bearing installer probably 2008 or so and I tappy tap tapped the new durabond bearings in my SBC no problem.... But it does not look like that one, I think it was over $100 back then can't remember, there's no universal anything all the parts are just 1 piece different color anodized billet aluminum ,I can't remember but It may have been SBC specific. It came from jegs I think. I haven't touched it since.

[@richardbates2367]

I have a Orion motor tech fuel pressure tester kit, and it's cheap made but honestly take the cheaper o rings that comes in the set off and find a set of decent ones in the assorted sizes you need and it's a ok set,I'd still trust my actron fuel pressure tester kit first but it doesn't have the assorted attachments or a way to add Them lol.

[@fredpierce9363]

Hey Tony, can you cut it down and put the black end back on the new end to make it easier to use on the engines you usually work on?

[@fredpierce9363]

I just read the other replies. Taking the short shaft off makes much more sense.

[@daveo532]

I have a good cam bearing tool. I have actually used it more for replacing bushings in automatic transmissions than replacing cam bearings.

[@ericwilkinson9447]

We Mainers Absolutely Love Uncle Tony & Uncle Kathy❤️❤️ PS.. We also Love Mopar Al... DD Speed Shop... Puddins Fab Shop'... SleeperDude... VGG..etc. etc. etc. All the Greats!!! 👋🤠👍

[@DoktorJeep]

Thanks Tony. I never saw anybody do that before.

[@electrix6751]

Lol. No need to use that short extension on the long one. 😁

[@app4902]

Glad to see Cathy back behind the camera!

[@MrZdvy]

I once had a 360 build by a self-proclaimed “Mopar expert” who was into dragracing. Took him months in his spare time, I didn’t care as long as he did a good job. Long story short...the engine had a vibration (crankshaft not balanced) coolant leak (core plugs not replaced) timing chain installed incorrectly (1 tooth off) AND cam bearings installed incorrectly resulting in worn out rockers in just a few hundred miles. It’s been years ago, but it still F pisses me off. An expensive lesson learned.

[@savagenomore]

I was looking at the pics on amazon, looks the expandable tip will screw into either stick so looks like you can use it with just the long stick, the short stick or both for super long like Tony had his

[@stevenbland2736]

It's inexpensive alright but it works perfectly fine. I have used mine many times without fail. It's not crap.

[@318Magnum]

Are you going to the no name Nationals?

[@greasyHands66]

I've a doubt about this. Can't you just press the cam bearings in place? I mean, if you turn the engine sideways, you can easily press the cam bearings in place, you can even use a plastic cone to center the pressing rod (I'm sure you'll find one in some old junk stored around the house, I've used an old spray gun reservoir). Throw in a rod an find a reasonable size and press that sucker in place. You can also use threaded rod if you don't have a way to press it, like a shop press. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.

[@eric63377]

I have the Lisle 18000 cambearing installation tool and I've used it for years with no issues and what you have there is a direct knock-off of the Lisle tool.

[@stevenkirk2563]

Every Ls owner needs a cam bearing install kit. Ls engines chew cam bearings.

[@SteelSurgeon]

Newb question, what makes each bearing numbered for specific positions?

[@classicreaction5340]

Each bearing is numbered because each one is a slightly different size. The cam journal in the back is the smallest size, the next one forward is slightly bigger, and the next one slightly bigger.....until the one at the front of the block, which is the largest one. The difference between the sizes is very small....just a few thousands of an inch.

[@mpetersen6]

Myself I'd rather have a spacer that seats in the back of the hole with a shoulder to seat against the block. Another disc that holds against the bearing shell. This should have a diameter that matches the actual cam gearing diameter. Press it in with a screw and nuts. In the factory these were all pressed in at once hydraulically. In some engines the bearings were bored after install to ensure concentricity.

[@paulcraven4652]

Thank you tony gust ordered on I’ll give it a try on my la 360 going together soon

[@AndreS_-df2nw]

bought one, and proceeded to break it and destroy the bearings. Then bought a better one that is steel, and has a well fitted machined bearing arbor..... install went perfect.