Creality Ender 3 V2 - My Cleanest Print Ever and You Can Too!

[@jam732]

As someone without a 3d printer, I find this very useful.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

You can also do this without a printer, it is just about 1billion times more difficult, good luck!

[@ibrahim47x]

Just keep your lighter steady while heating up the nozzle to 200°C manually

[@famijoku7631]

@@NeedItMakeIt perhaps he has a 3d pen, if not, perhaps a hot glue fun might do the trick

[@Bannnnnnnnnn]

@@NeedItMakeIt glue gun very love this idea

[@Adiop4]

Same

[@ryanvargo4907]

You could also use vase mode to get rid of the seams and help with over extrusion on the backside

[@quintenvanagt3296]

what is vase mode?

[@LombardoJoe]

@@quintenvanagt3296 Basically there are no seams because the print limits outer walls and continues to print upward without stopping with fluid Z motion. I think it's called "Spiralize Outer Contour" in Cura.

[@SeamusHarper1234]

Vase mode is not a good idea for a tutorial like this, because it has limited usecases. You can't print anything that needs infill, supports, or more than one line wall thickness. Seam management is one of the major quality issues for me.

[@supernielsen1223]

There is NO over extrusion on this model at all aswell.. But the term is misused alot

[@mraleko]

how would you fix the top

[@joemulkerins5250]

The z-seam can be reduced by reducing retraction and turning off "retract at layer change".

[@ViralKiller]

Remember you can use epoxy resin/hardener on a low quality print to get this result too...after sanding

[@KingMarcellous]

So pour the resin over it?

[@digibluh]

@@KingMarcellous brush it over usually and it fills the gaps, then sand it. best result is just buy all natural filaments for everything and use primer/filler and paint them. smooth, clean and any surface finish, matte, satin, gloss...etc.... it would be next level to have a printer or another machine that specializes in post processing prints like this for you.

[@Graham.556]

@@digibluh You can even sand it then apply wood filler or any filler putty and finish with a few coats of primer/filler primer

[@collegestudent6071]

Or just get a resin printer

[@Just_Some_K]

@@collegestudent6071 Only issue with a resin printer is that resin prints are usually not as strong as filament prints. Resin is great for small details whereas filament is good for the building of larger prints. Nothing is stopping you from using both to get the best of both worlds!

[@gusmaiawork]

used the 0.4mm G-Code on my Ender 3 Standard and got to say that it's the cleanest print I've ever done, huge thanks for sharing this!

[@shiftyjesusfish]

just use vase mode and set your layer width to 1.2mm with your .6mm, adjust flow and temp a bit to compensate and just trust me. not only will it work, be faster than you imagined possible, it will look incredible and be REALLY strong for a vase mode print.... bonus points for using a translucent filament (the super thick single extrusion looks amazing when its clear). hope you read this, try it, and have your mind blown!

[@ChefofWar33]

Interesting

[@newunderthesun7353]

I'm a noob with this type of gear. I come from CNC machining, and making things manually with lathes and hand made molds - not to mention carving by hand out of wood and stone. Question -- why is there a seam on "any" 3-D printed object?

[@omegaPhix]

@@newunderthesun7353 Are you talking about layer lines?

[@newunderthesun7353]

@@omegaPhix No, about 3:30 into the video he shows vertical seam lines. If the filament is contiguous, why are there any seams?

[@fhpwnage8872]

@@newunderthesun7353 This is caused when the nozzle moves up and starts the next layer. I am rather new to 3d printing but I think its possible to reduce that by quite a bit.

[@Aditya-wg3lp]

i think it looks pretty 🗿

[@PiefacePete46]

Aditya 999: Reminds me of my Mother-in-Law! :o)

[@enriquemp3424]

Based

[@enriquemp3424]

@@Aditya-wg3lp what?

[@enriquemp3424]

@@Aditya-wg3lp ok, i guess

[@thebagelboyjr9351]

@@Aditya-wg3lp what?

[@duckie112]

Tested it out tweaked it a little bit added bottom layers and infill and now I can use this with all my prints. Never had this clean prints and fast prints! Thanks!!

[@DrMoofK]

Everyone I knew that had a 3D printer told me not to get an Ender 3. But with about $40 of parts I got it to print better than all their Prusa printers. The ender 3 is such a good beginner 3D printer because of it's flaws out of the box. You end up learning so much through trial and error. I print some pretty complex figurines and print in place parts on mine. It's insane what you can actually do once it's completely dialed in and maintained.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I couldn't agree more, definitely a good starter printer. I suppose the 'printee' needs to be in the right mindset and be able to problem solve and learn the new skills. The people that will have success 3D printing I think have that type of though process anyway (maybe I'm wrong), but the maker type people. Mine are both working with very few mods, I've replaced only a few parts and they've each printed hundreds and hundreds of parts. Seems like an okay deal. The next gen has more tech, a little harder to wrap your head around. I just received the K1 Printer the other day, it is a nice printer as well, I'm curious to see what types of features they've packed in there. It is very professional looking, sleek design. What will the next gen of printers look like. I still think some company will go a completely different direction, there is a lot of opportunity to make stronger parts faster with different techniques. That's me being hopeful! I can honestly say I've never tried a print-in-place, that's impressive you've been able to get it working for you that well, there is a lot that can go wrong with those kinds of tight tolerances.

[@PatchCornAdams723]

Totally agree! I have an S1 pro and it's my first printer, but the many, many roadblocks I've ran into really has made me learn more about the hobby. Before I got a 3D printer, I thought you just hit 'print' and it was basically ready to go. Lol.

[@joelstolarski2244]

It really is amazing printer. Got a Sovol sv06 which I thought would do better, and it doesn’t. Changed springs to silicone on bed. It’s still losing level very often. Was fine for awhile. Glass bed warped as well. So shimming it until it levels out again. Even with issues still makes some really nice prints.

[@paulguy8779]

What are mods that youde recommend? I have an ender 3, very familiar with tweaking lol

[@steamtraintom]

Try printing with PLA-F, it is supposed to be a pla with more abs like qualities. I've only tried black and white filaments so far, the black printed like any other pla, but the finish and quality of the white was sublime! I've shown it to a few other friends with 3d printers and they've all said that they have never seen such a quality print before! I did it with a 0.4mm nozzle and I think it was 0.12mm layer height

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Okay, I'm going to have to look that up. I had no idea they'd be able to combine the two together, they don't seem at all compatible, they are not soluble by the same chemicals either. I was thinking about making a video about the most expensive filament vs the cheapest, and see how far off they are. I'd need to get a filament dryer for this to be an accurate test I think.

[@steamtraintom]

@@NeedItMakeIt I'm not sure what makes the difference, but the white pla-f has never missed a beat. Never had a bad print with it, good adhesion, brilliant layer adhesion, flawless finish... I guess it is down to the pigment used compared to the black. With your comparison video might I suggest throwing amazon basics filament into the mix, would also be interesting to see where that places! The ones I have tried i found to be reasonably priced and printed well.

[@parrapaTh3Rappa]

@@steamtraintom is there a certain brand of PLA-F that you use? Mainly asking about the white filament you mentioned.

[@parrapaTh3Rappa]

@@steamtraintom interesting..thank you!!

[@thehighwayman78]

Wow, just-wow, this profile prints soooo clean! Thank you! I had serious ringing problems but this is soooo smooth!

[@rihis007]

Where did u find this profile?there isn't in the description

[@DJVoyagerXue]

That was an amazing result, sir.

[@nicholasborrelli7544]

You might always wear a skirt when you print but I prefer shorts

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Anything goes, and I won't judge.

[@austinhebbrecht405]

So clean man

[@luke5kr]

They're comfy and easy to wear.

[@fireaza]

Personally, I like to do all my prints in the nude.

[@beanieteamie7435]

I just wear a skirt in general

[@JoepSwagemakers]

Super clean! You could get a more smooth result if you increase the polygon count of the model. On the highlights I think I can still see some facets appear.

[@BassMaster.454]

🗿

[@Macgyverjrofficial]

How to make this work the same with a 0.4mm nozzle ? 😫

[@nawainrukalfank1703]

Woah amazing results, very smooth 🗿🗿🗿

[@joelstolarski2244]

That’s amazing. Struggling with a 0.2 nozzle in order to print a less than dime sized Sherman tank. Thought trying small would be different than so many people making big stuff. I’m thinking a steel 0.2 might have been the wrong nozzle to get made some little test squares that printed extremely smooth, but the tank hasn’t done well. Bottom layer ok and as it goes up 5 layers or so it clogs. Was using wood Isanmate as well which took some time to get right with a 0.4. Anyway thanks so much for the tips and beautiful print tips.

[@TaliwhakerRotmg]

First patreon must feel like a big step forwards. Congrats!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

For sure, I am pretty lucky that I'm starting to gain some traction, it has been quite a few years making videos with little progress. I'm still working on making better and shorter videos with less waste. Felix C. has a video idea which I think is really good and fairly easy, so I'm going to make one for him. Thank you for the comment and for the support!

[@BitSmythe]

0:15 Using an actual tie-wrap gun will cut the ties cleanly without leaving those sharp edges. They can be very dangerous (to your wrists) in a busy networking installation.

[@tro7e]

well, using the cutter supplied with ender machines you can get the same result.

[@DaStuntChannel]

Or just twisting them

[@Shorts-GO-GO]

kzbin.info/door/W2ja1uLvqjs9mzjVzkglVA

[@3atsleeprepeat]

Please make a tutorial on bed leveling. I am having a lot of problems with that. Also what is your print speed ? Thank you ! great print !

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's a pretty easy one, probably could do a 2 min video on that.

[@3atsleeprepeat]

@@NeedItMakeIt It would really help me out, I am have so much trouble just setting the bed. I moved my printer to a new place and I havent been able to get ONE print ever since I did that.

[@timothymusson5040]

@@3atsleeprepeat did you recheck all the screws and belt tightness since moving it?

[@AgnosiaAgnosis]

If you have a V2 and problems levelling, it's because you have a 4 point bed.

[@joeybergeron376]

STEP ONE GET A BL TOUCH

[@Gromic2k]

Nice nice. Now let's see the view with light from top

[@abdulghaniabdulaziz9679]

i will fix my 3d printer issues, thank you for this video suggestions

[@509drone2]

Very nice! Excellent print!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thank you!

[@evan.soloss]

@@NeedItMakeIt PLS CAN I HAVE THE FILE

[@WarHackz123]

Its in the discription

[@papermind4010]

I don’t do any of this I just send it and usually it’s pretty good as long as the bed is levelled at the right height and you got the right settings

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's cool, you're right about getting the setting just right, some people have a knack for it, some people struggle quite a bit to understand what to change to get it there.

[@papermind4010]

@@NeedItMakeIt oh for sure, I definitely wasnt saying anybody shouldn’t do any of these, I’m definitely gonna give them a try when I print next!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@papermind4010 No problem, I really enjoy the feedback and conversations with everyone, so keep 'em coming! With advancements in 3d printing, I really think someone needs to come out with a kit that anyone can install onto their Ender 3 printers to upgrade them to run Klipper with a sensor to mitigate resonance. It would go a long way towards having great prints but also saving money. I'm saying that, but I haven't really looked that much, maybe someone already has.

[@AmericanRailClub]

Looks fantastic, definitely going to try combing and coasting! Quick question, what's the name of the song used at around 2:20? Keep it up!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'll probably be making a video on the results of coasting with this printer, we'll get some super high def video to see the subtle differences (hopefully). Instant Crush - Corbyn Kites, this is free youtube music, I sped it up a little for the video.

[@Junkysnake]

dude, the grenade/container on thingiverse printed amazingly.

[@m_vergil85]

an ender 3 V2 can print such good looking objects ? " shut up and take my money " I'm definitely buying one

[@merlinjim]

One thing he didn't mention; use fresh filament or keep your filament in a dryer box. PLA particularly absorbs moisture from the air and will degrade over time.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I find that PETG is worse, it could be the quality or the brand as well. Yes, it does make a difference for sure. I've never had an issue with ABS, I always have problems with PETG and my PLA is pretty good, but could use a little drying. Great point!

[@zigapauko1]

I found out that combing makes my models worse, so I started using the default settings with some tweaks here and there. The results are much better.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Can you send me a profile to test? Some prints might not benefit from it, and there are different combing settings which could affect the results. My email is [e-mail] .

[@mitofun6967]

in order the combing to work perfectly - try activate retraction distance in combing mode 5 mm!)))

[@mitofun6967]

max comb distance with no retraction set it to 5 ) and everything will be gooooood!

[@zigapauko1]

@@NeedItMakeIt Sory I have to correct myself, only one model came out worse, on all others it makes 0 difference.

[@evan.soloss]

@@NeedItMakeItPLS CAN I HAVE THE FILE

[@SianaGearz]

Try M413 S0, i can feel a chug. If you run inner perimeter first, the start of seam is inside the model and the end of the seam can be wiped over to disguise it, i think you need Wipe Nozzle Between Layers. I forget whether you need to enable or disable retraction between layers then, i think ideally you don't want a retraction here, but i don't remember how it interacts with Wipe.

[@fns58]

wtf does the power loss recovery function in Marlin (M413) have to do with seams lol

[@SianaGearz]

@@fns58 Because it writes a cookie file to SD-card whenever the parser/planner detects a layer change. If the SD-Card isn't very great and isn't reporting instantly that it completed the write, Marlin just stalls completely until it does.

[@Shorts-GO-GO]

kzbin.info/door/W2ja1uLvqjs9mzjVzkglVA

[@elHippieSupremo]

Why have I not considered printing something with 0% infill before? Almost 2 years 3d printing. I learned something today.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Some parts can be done this way, not all, but it can certainly save some time. Some people print hollow and pour resin inside, or even print hollow to create a mold to cast. I'd actually like to use that technique in an upcoming video to see if we can use printing to create a mold, but instead of burning the plastic out, we just soften it enough to remove, the mold would still need to be 2 parts, but I think it can work...

[@DaGaitaHBas]

I printing with 0,8 too solve Very problem; Nice vídeo.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I find the 0.8vworks well for strong and fast prints as well

[@theorgangrinder1743]

I always print with a skirt on too, it makes me feel pretty.

[@daveanything]

I am certain I cannot do better than this (per your comment at the end). This is so smooth and beautiful. Mine look horrible, like I am creating Frankenstein every time I print. I am a sub now and hopefully can find some helpful tips. For instance, I have no idea what coasting means or combing for that matter. I had been using Prusa for the longest time (2.5 weeks) and now I am trying to learn cura. But, there are sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo many things in there and I have no clue what they mean :)

[@Gromic2k]

Well he uses only a frontal light to hide imperfections. If he would have shown a light from top, i bet it would look much worse

[@VinayVarsani]

If you randomise the seam on cura you can reduce the appearance of the line down the back

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I don't find much success with random seams, I am working on dialing in the settings and maybe it can work. I am running tests over the next week to see what works the best. I also have a bondtech LGX on order, it might make a difference too.

[@VinayVarsani]

@@NeedItMakeIt yes true I find it causes lots of small spots to stand out but maybe try slowing the jerk settings?

[@eg39701]

So wait, why would a .6 nozzle print more aesthetically pleasing than a .4 nozzle?

[@GiovanniMorenoMusic]

I am so gonna try this when i have the printer

[@DiscoStu30]

No mention of calibrating the printer. - esteps, temp towers, retraction settings... do all that and you will have good prints.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I can agree, dealing with the printer tuning is a portion of producing good results, the slicer and settings as well as other factors like cooling and material being printed as well as nozzle size all play into the result. The videos I make a short to make them easy to digest and fast to make, I have a collection of other videos which cover a lot of these topics and will have more.

[@40kwarriortuber92]

For an FDM printer this looks awesome!

[@jaysoncummins]

You need adaptive layering for the top of the head

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Excellent point

[@sharpy3453]

dam, wish my ender 3 with a hemera printed this well right now,

[@ryn1986]

I would also suggest picking up a bltouch. This will greatly improve print quality

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I have one waiting to be installed. How does it improve the quality? Getting the first layer perfect?

[@ryn1986]

@@NeedItMakeIt If your bed leveling is not perfect or you have a warped bed the bltouch compensates for that and produces a perfect first layer.

[@OArchivesX]

You basically just have to use standard settings and it will come out fine if you have a decent printer. Prusa slicer already has settings optimized. Use the standard MK3(now 4!) settings and modify them. The only thing you really need to learn how to do is speed up your machine while maintaining the quality, that's the tricky part :) I run mostly everything at 80mm/s, with outside perimeters at 60, but I know I could go faster., up my nozzle size.

[@etzmannschnappuleck1181]

I like your NRW music background!

[@MultiSteelking]

It would be nice if you made a 0.4mm profile. I think its more common and people would love it :) Nice work!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I will do that! I'm going to provide a set of profiles in any future videos for 0.4mm right up to 0.8mm, most of the settings are the same except for dialing in the seam and the amount of walls/infill etc. Some of my testing will include this nozzle size as well, thank you, I am normally printing with 0.8mm, so the change is a bit foreign to me.

[@KarlosCastillo420]

@@NeedItMakeIt I'm waiting for the 0.4mm profile as well! i've printed one and im blown away with the results. i will wait for the profile

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Most current PLA Profile 0.4 nozzle: drive.google.com/file/d/1Y6DBhFdZ6BdNJMD_Ff39EO3yZTqTEHRN/view?usp=sharing

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Most current PLA Profile 0.4 nozzle: drive.google.com/file/d/1Y6DBhFdZ6BdNJMD_Ff39EO3yZTqTEHRN/view?usp=sharing

[@marcopasta6274]

@@NeedItMakeIt cheers

[@AgnosiaAgnosis]

I have been told by Bondtech that an enclosure for this printer is not recommended.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

There are certain risks involved, at higher temps, cooling of the electrical components becomes a problem. Mine was in an enclosure for about 6 months with no issues, however it only reached as high as 50C. Any higher and plastics will begin to soften and the electronics could suffer. Creality makes enclosures for these printers, however they are not well insulated (maybe by design) if the temps can be kept low enough, the printer will be fine. Sound will be deadened a little, airborne particles will be reduced, the printer will stay cleaner longer. Bondtech is a good well known company, I'd want them to be more specific about the reason.

[@AgnosiaAgnosis]

@@NeedItMakeIt I'll look at my emails from months ago and see what the reason was if they said

[@frankdearr2772]

Great video, thanks 👍

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thank you!

[@sacrificialrubber779]

Maybe a good candidate for vase mode?🤔🤔👌🏻

[@underourrock]

Looks great. Would really like to see the same print done with Arc Welder plugin enabled and see if there is any discernable difference. (Or maybe you had Arc Welder on and it would be good to know.)

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I will have a look into that, no arc welder on, I've been trying to keep as much stock as possible so people have a chance at getting good results from the start.

[@underourrock]

@@NeedItMakeIt I found it really easy to add to Cura and greatly simplifies the gcode. (More curves = fewer short line segments and fewer commands per second the controller has to parse and process.)

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@underourrock Sold, I'll try it on my next print. Are there any useful prints that would also serve as good test subjects? I hate to print these models for no real purpose.

[@user2C47]

A lot of printers do not support G2/G3.

[@evan.soloss]

@@NeedItMakeItPLEASE FILE

[@AviDarks]

Great video. What glue do you use? Can you link?

[@DavidMiOo]

Thank God for those gloves, all would have been lost without them

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Truth be told, I would wear the gloves because I would bite my nails, and they looked terrible. I had been doing it for my entire life. Since then I have finally stopped, so the gloves come on only when I need cool looking hands, or I actually need gloves!

[@dawson8715]

When I first saw it I thought it was a resin print it looked so good in the thumbnail

[@dftdbs1010]

I used a .4mm nozzle and a .09mm layer height, a speed of 55m/s and at 218c - 100% infill - 6 walls with Esun PLA+, I have stronger bed clips also in a aluminized fiberglass enclosure, and I used weights like your method... let's see how it turns out.

[@ModelAirportDutchie]

and?

[@dftdbs1010]

@@ModelAirportDutchie My hot end literally caught on fire and melted, not sure what happened... I'm getting a Prusa now, fuck Voxelab. Shipping is taking forever.

[@LimpiezasMyG]

coasting makes the seam bigger, turn it off. Cleaner. Turn Wipe instead. For a cleaner print calibrate linear advance and go MUCH slower

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I am in the process of testing all of the variables for seams right now, I will turn Coasting off on some of the tests as well. If I have it off there is normally a slightly raised area though speed is probably a factor.

[@shankswrc3509]

Nice print. To reduce vibrations you could try to fill the frame with fine sand.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's a very cool idea! I'd really like to see how fast this printer can go and that's where these ideas could really help. I recently had the spool on the front because of the setup with the printers for the video and the frame was vibrating a lot, I've since moved it to the side, but probably off of the machine completely will help too.

[@shankswrc3509]

@@NeedItMakeIt Nice to know that you will push those machines. Yes the spool on the side or of the printer helps. Mine has the stock spool holder bolted on the rear left side profile. The normal size filament spools fit's just right and it's close to the extruder.

[@kevinjones6924]

@@shankswrc3509 did the exact same thing, helps immensely especially since it feeds almost directly into the extruder. Never could figure out why Creality put the spool holder on top since the filament feeds in at 90 degrees! Gotta love those engineers/designers! 😅🤣😂

[@kevinjones6924]

How do you fill the frame with sand, it's solid aluminum?

[@jamessowin2505]

@@kevinjones6924 don't fill it with sand. That's just dumb. Instead mount it to the table. And mount the table to the wall. Much easier. And sand is a pain to deal with.

[@Xenotester]

Really pretty. And it done by FDM printer with moving table

[@Mahar4ja]

The 0.4 variant of the gcode doesn't work (if you view it in a gcode viewer its pretty messed up as well), but would it be alright for me to use the 0.6 gcode with a 0.4 extruder, considering the layer width is still 0.16? I have banding and what I believe to be overextrusion issues ('scars' down the side) and im not sure if it is mechanical or slicer based, so im trying someone else's gcode to find if its a mechanical or slicer thing.

[@digibluh]

So just print at 0.1-0.6 layer height....pretty much. at the right angle you can see the some issues/banding but it is what it is, fdm will always have that. using a flex3drive or zesty nimble would give the bowden benefit of having direct drive.

[@youngster30uk]

He is printing really slow, a DD will be perfect at the speed. DD is only an issue when you start increasing the speed

[@lajoyalobos2009]

I always get bad underextrusion after retraction with any type of coasting turned on. That said, everyone wants 15 minute benchys nowadays but sometimes there's nothing quite like small layers to make a near smooth print.

[@3DPrintFarm]

Nice job!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks, by chance do you have a direct drive setup on your printers? If so which brand have you chosen?

[@LOTMAXX]

Cool. Thanks for the useful video.

[@Aceb_k]

The V2 is a much better investment than the other Ender 3’s, much cleaner in prints and build

[@_nom_]

V2 isn't good. Lacks everything. S1 or cr-10 smart pro

[@Aceb_k]

@@_nom_ And you lack a father

[@Congtalks.English]

It is very cute. I loved it. in the past time, I was built this sample, but unfortunate This test not smooth❤❤❤❤❤

[@jordyv.703]

Might I suggest enabling coasting to get rid of most of the z-seam?

[@jochemlaurenssen9440]

I have this printer, but have a lot of problems with stringing. I watched all videos on this, but nothing works. Only thing that helps is putting the temp all the way down to 185, but worried about delayering. Maybe my pla is not dry enough? I live in a hot humid country.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Yes, this is likely a moisture problem, I have this problem with PETG and need to dry it in the oven and also turn the temp down. With PLA you'd need to dry it at no greater than 60C so it does not soften and bond to itself on the spool.

[@_t_9494]

Hi there, really sorry...but im a newbie looking to start 3d printing. I dont find the details about the solid surface u putted instead original one and what was the product u passed on it, before start printing. Many thanks for all the nice videos and ur time here helping. 🤜🏻🤛🏻

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Don't be sorry! When I started I had so much trouble... in hindsight, starting with ABS was a mistake... Do you mean the Cura profile linked? Let me know if that's what you need and I'll have another look. Are you using Cura or a different slicer?

[@masonreed5684]

Could you post all your slicer settings?

[@Ender07]

That looks awesome! I have an Ender 3 V2 as well and I keep having issues with sagging and quality issues directly above supports. I have a stock setup and everything else is calibrated really well, I get great prints when they don't have supports or overhangs that are too much, but as soon as I do either they look really bad. It is especially annoying because I want to print miniatures for DnD and the weapons, capes, and arms tend to look horrible underneath where the supports are supposed to meet the print. Do you have any tips besides orientation, or aftermarket parts? Thanks so much!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I normally print super heavy duty structural parts, but I think this printer is precise enough to print small guys, they might need to be sliced up and re-joined afterward for the best results. Initial comment is to print with PLA, lots of cooling and print slow with a small nozzle, for extra cooling use a large fan, this works really well, Voron speed printers need this to cool the parts rapidly. I can have a look after I've finished a video or two, please send me the file and I'll see if I can make it work. [e-mail]

[@kill4all188]

@@NeedItMakeIt what resolution are you printing at and what speed and type of supports are you using?

[@leach_]

If you have the money you could look into investing into resin printing, when you overcome the fear of it, it really is an insane upgrade.

[@notsam498]

There are a lot of settings controlling supports in cura. The roof density of a support and the z gap distance are what your gonna want to mess with. Simplest upgrade that will improve your printer for pla is a bigger fan... A single 5015 will absolutely handle business on an ender 3.

[@MrAbenavides]

@@kill4all188 in the video he has print speed at 70, and he doesn’t use supports, and he used .16 resolution

[@frankbetterton]

sometimes when modeling there are parameters that don't connect when you zoom in and see them and may cause this potential for a seam.....some times a circle is only a number of arcs, this can cause cnc's to start at the beginning and stop at the end of the arc creating the seam.....not saying this can't be overcome by the slicing software.

[@kevinjones6924]

Why would you use a glue stick with PEI???? Never heard of it. I've been using 2 different brands of PEI sheets on 4 - Ender 3's and 1 - Ender 5 and have yet to have a print not adhere properly. Also just wait for it to cool down to room temperature and the print(s) will fall right off! PEI sheets are the best thing I ever did for my printers! Btw, your print looks good except for the big seam at the back.

[@parrapaTh3Rappa]

Is there a certain brand of PEI sheet that you like? I've been looking at glass, but a lot of people like PEI and it seems to be much lighter.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I've also tried 2mm borosilicate glass, it does work, I've only broken 1 piece while testing a 1mm nozzle with heavy infill and it pulled up on the glass so much that it shattered. Normal prints don't cause any trouble. For PEI, I'm no expert yet, I only have this one sheet and I am liking it, except that it likes to curl when heated around the edges.

[@kevinjones6924]

@@NeedItMakeIt Sorry to say but you should have went with the magnetic sheet. Never experienced that with mine nor have I heard that complaint with magnetic.

[@parrapaTh3Rappa]

@@kevinjones6924 which one do you use?

[@parrapaTh3Rappa]

@@NeedItMakeIt thanks for your input! I looked at borosilicate glass, too..but from what Ive heard around, PEI is a favorite. You're really great at being active in the comments..it's cool!

[@waynefilkins8394]

How would you modify the profile for ender 3 s1 or s1 pro? Just change retraction settings and keep everything else the same?

[@W8DEY]

Looks radical

[@abcdefghij274]

Wow you are amazing. Thanks for the help. Straight to the point easy to follow and no extra bd

[@NkRemTeh]

Все зависит от пластика, у меня Ender 3 S1 качество такое же, но если пластик плохой, то ничего хорошего не получается.

[@aerodrone2376]

Looks great

[@guinso]

Wow so clean! im wondering if this also achievable in a TPU material using same printer and slicer?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I've never tried, but I think it is possible with the right setup. I will order some and try it out in a future video.

[@guinso]

@@NeedItMakeIt thanks man! Will wait for the new project keep em coming! 🙌

[@NoHemlockForMe]

Not bad. for first layer, I really recommend adding a bltouch. It really does make a considerable difference. Also, use buildtak instead of PEI, no glue, heat is optional for PLA. Then you don't need an enclosure. Randomize the seam and make sure to set travel to within the model. Tension the Y-axis belt on the printer, the ender 3 lacks anti backlash, so it makes a difference. Tension the X as well, it should be ok already, but it could help. Also, adaptive rate control makes a HUGE difference and should be enabled. To do it better, get two inexpensive accelerometers. Dumping the entire Marlin based firmware and just tossing out the screen and replacing it with Klipper and a touch screen with fluidd can help a lot. I recommend considering a proper motherboard as well. Finally, if you're going to stick with Bowden, replace the nozzle and extruder with a 2.85mm E3D configuration. Bowden on 1.75 is horrible. You really don't want direct drive on an ender 3 since the benefits you gain in extrusion is lost in motion. I know I'm basically saying "throw everything out and start over", but that's the point of an Ender 3, it's so cheap that gutting it and hacking on it is REALLY REALLY fun.

[@simont3686]

For that purpose an Ender 5 seems more hackable. What do you think?

[@JonDotExe]

If you're going to do all that, you should start with an ender 3, not an ender 3 v2, since then you're paying for upgrades that you're going to toss anyway

[@darrenstarr1167]

@@simont3686 the Ender 5 has some pretty serious problems. It's an amazingly hackable printer and I have bother the Ender 5 and the Ender 5 Plus. The Ender 5 has a horribly unstable print bed, but this is easily corrected with a few 3d-printed brackets. The Ender 5 Plus is a disaster of a printer, but is REALLY REALLY hackable. But if you're going to go that route, I'd recommend just building a Voron, it's cheaper.

[@darrenstarr1167]

@@JonDotExe haha agreed or better yet, just buy the latest Ender 3 which has almost everything already in it. :)

[@simont3686]

@@darrenstarr1167 I'm using the Ender 5 pro for about a year now. I got the dual Z mod dnd the microswiss direct drive extruder. It's a really solid, fast printer now.

[@briancoleman2177]

Wow! That's a great print....can I expect same from a Bowden extruder setup?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I have Bowden on my printers, it is possible to get results like this yes. It really does depend on the object complexity, but being able to spiralize the print will give excellent results.

[@briancoleman2177]

Thank you

[@sedled2829]

Places like under the ears and top of the head, is there a way to keeps layers width consistent. It seems to hate spherical corners even when everything else is perfect, issues arise when printing small nubs.

[@patrickbodine1300]

Yes, fastening the printer to a stable platform works great.

[@patfilice]

Looks great, how do you get rid of the blobbing at the start of each layer

[@daddychristmas9257]

As someone with a 3d printer, I find this very useful.

[@adam2943]

The Rock would be proud

[@dutchtrucker]

I'm getting seperation on the shoulders, nose and forehead. All the vertical overhangs print perfect, but not the ones where the diameter of the form gets smaller. Any ideas would be great, cheers.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Any chance you can send me an email with a photo or two?

[@dutchtrucker]

@@NeedItMakeIt thanks, I've solved it now, it was e steps. They where about 35% out. Cheers

[@larryroberts2963]

I just got my inter 3 1st one I'm really having fun whether need lock help thanks for all the videos

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Excellent, it is a great way to learn and be creative. I have lots more videos planned and in the works!

[@federicomilano5272]

Hi!I can't import profile in cura:" Failed to import profile from C:/Users/vlad/Downloads/PLA_0.4N_200N_60B.curaprofile: Quality type 'standard' is not compatible with the current active machine definition 'fdmprinter'." Maybe do you know why? Thank you very much!

[@Aito-Hikari]

With the Inner and outer walls you printed with 35 and 55 this is faster then my settings (I think may still be default both at 25, with printing faster dose this help with print quality? Or if not what would be the reason to increase this speed?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Slower is better in most cases, the only time it tends to give better results is when printing PETG and moving from island to island causes small amounts of filament to leek from the nozzle. It depends on the distances they're apart from each other of course. To some extend the nozzle size and also the quality of the filament.

[@Exarvi]

Certified ÖÖÖÖÖÅÅÅÅÅ classic

[@tanujak98]

do you have a profile for TPU? i could really use one!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I've never tried TPU, it doesn't work well with a bowden setup, I've been very reluctant to try it out.

[@lozD83]

"I always print with a skirt on". No judgement, man 😉

[@NeedItMakeIt]

A miniskirt perhaps?

[@foureight84]

Great video. That PEI sheet is exactly what I have been looking for. Btw do the clips damage the sheet? Also do you notice warping from flexing the sheet to remove the prints?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It works well, the clips haven't damaged the sheet yet, but I need a few thinner clips around the sides that don't hit the frame as the Y moves. The PEI sheet does warp a little bit as the print is going, maybe 0.25mm on a print like the one in the video, it does not lose bond at all, and I've only used it for small prints so far because I need something to hold those sides down better (maybe something can be printed). I'd also like to try a CF board, I have one on order from Banggood right now, I'll have to cut it to size, it should stay flat and should also be super light weight.

[@foureight84]

I've been using a 3mm Lexan with 235mm cctree build plate sticker. That works a bit too well since pla will not come off if the nozzle is too close. There's also a bit of warping about about .5mm on large prints. I am hoping this PEI sheet will be a bit better. Do you have links to the CF board? Wanna check that out. I have thought about using circuit boards as well but I haven't been able to find any that's precut to 235mm

[@specialingu]

@@NeedItMakeIt might want to be careful with that, on a video about the speedboat challenge, somone said the expoxy on the cheap cf tube goes soft at 60c...

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@specialingu I'll have a closer look, I'd assume they haven't used an epoxy rated for higher temps like the ones for sale by visionminer. Thanks for that.

[@eideticex]

The clips shouldn't hurt the sheet. That material is so strong against crushing force, we use it in automotive repair to cut our own gaskets sometimes.

[@archerjackson690]

I just bought this, I can't even get my first layer to print, I'm on the verge of tears lol. I spent all night manually leveling the bed, printing test sheets, adjusting settings in cura, playing with temps, soliciting advice on the internet, I'm losing my mind. I wish I never bought this thing. I bambu mini was $20 more, even a Neptune 4 was $40 more :')

[@dirkhorn9695]

About this printing in enclosure... i bought one to protect my ender3 from dust in the workshop. and with the enclosure closed, every single print filed. can it get to hot in the enclosure??? mostly the filament broke after 1 or 2 houres

[@mostafakhaligy857]

Hi. Whenever i try to do time lapse for vase using the plugin it makes a gap within the layer. I use a plugin where the head goes to the end to press the shutter button. When it comes back it skips part of the layer. Can u help ?

[@peterevenhuis2663]

the idea to but the weights on the base frame is smart. i will try this.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

A viewer also suggested a yoga mat, apparently that works very well also. I'd go the other way, when we have large machines we need to have no vibration, we attach them to the floor. Lathes, CNCs.

[@halldirector]

Where is your filament? I've found that taking the filament off the top of the Ender 3 v2 really helps the print quality - a full 1kg roll can really alter the centre of gravity.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I used to keep it on the front only because I had the two printers beside each other for the videos, but that's not a great idea, so I hold them at the top of the frame handing off of the side, the printers are at angles to each other now and the rolls don't interfere with the printers. Hanging it from the side in the direction the frame is stronger seems to help a lot with reducing vibration. I'll be purchasing a filament dryer soon for testing so I'll probably have it on the desktop soon. Let me know if you need a photo and I can upload and link one.

[@halldirector]

​@@NeedItMakeIt An interesting idea would be to test how these different locations affect quality. My spool is attached to the bottom of the printer to the side. It _seems_ better (especially with models that have a lot of direction changes) but I don't have side-by-side prints.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@halldirector I think that's a great idea for a test. I have a video idea already in the works about stiffening the printer up to improved print quality, this could also be added to the video, or it could be one on its own as well.

[@Eyenstein-ex9vw]

@@halldirector I bet mounting off the printer would be the best bet. Thanks for this post because I never thought about it before. I bet the side and back mounts for the ender 5 pro and plus I have are adding considerable vibration every time the retraction makes the filament roll rock back and forth on its holder. I will definitely be making holders to sit on my table and see if it helps. Thanks again.

[@jasonspencer9246]

Just looking at .buying the ender 3 , how long did this print take ?

[@claws_3200]

I’m new to 3d printing, and don’t quite understand one thing. Why did there need to be a seem on the back?

[@FrancescoLonghetti]

I cant load the curaprofile because it says it is "standard quality" and my nozzle/filament combination is not compatible... how did you guys load it in cura?

[@Im_The_Slep]

The moyai is strong with this one