Creality K1C Review, Important Upgrades & Mods

In this video I review the Creality K1C, talk about the good, the bad and the most important upgrades and mods. Happy to take your comments on your favourite mods as well so we can show them in a next video!
Get the Creality K1C here:
Amazon: geni.us/k1camzn
Creality: geni.us/k1ccreality
3DJake DE: geni.us/k1c3djde
3D Jake International: geni.us/k1c3djuk
Nobufil ABSx, best ABS I've ever used:
3DJake DE: geni.us/nobufilabsx3djde
3D Jake International: geni.us/nobufilabsx3djuk
PRINTED UPGRADES:
All the files in a Printables Collection: www.printables.com/@Crosslink...
Top Cover Raiser: www.printables.com/model/7702...
Top Spool Holder: www.printables.com/model/6248...
Filtermount: www.printables.com/model/7809...
Adapter for Filtermount: www.printables.com/model/8048...
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0:00 How we got started and first results
1:23 What's new and different?
2:34 Look and feel, technical specs
3:16 Projects I printed with the K1C
4:46 The "heated" chamber
5:23 A few more words on the unicorn nozzles
6:40 Heated bed and built plate concerns
8:06 Touch screen
8:30 How to upload print files
9:07 Klipper
10:19 Issues
11:49 Most important mods and upgrades
15:02 Things I miss and that should be changed
15:54 Who is this printer for?
16:57 How to filter toxic fumes most effectively
17:19 What' next?
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[@iroo_h7604]

I have watched several K1C reviews, this was the most helpful by far.

[@Crosslink3D]

Thank you so much! What did you find most helpful in comparison to others? I would love to hear!

[@saddle1940]

I wonder if you can buy a small thin sheet with a nozzle wipe on it and place that at the back, then use any two sided sheet infront of it.

[@aleksandartodorov5992]

Hello, my orca slicer device tap stop working and shows blank screen, could you please advise how to fix it. Was working perfectly and this morning just stopped?

[@devluz]

I am still a bit suspicious of my K1. I tried the "resume print" feature after a power cycle and it just smashed the nozzle into the heatbed then dragging it for a few cm. Smashing the stop button didn't work and I had to unplug it. It works 99% time but if something fails it does so spectacularly and klipper isn't fast enough to stop any damage. I miss ocotoprint

[@ryanherrera9171]

Fantastic review.

[@Crosslink3D]

Thanks!

[@SidneyM]

Hi , are the lid riser vents sufficient to keep the chamber temp down for printing PLA?.....

[@mec7167]

Hi Daniel Again a very nice Video. I tried to find the side spool holder since i have my K1. Can you tell me where i can find it?

[@domi1617hun]

Creality K1 Side load spool holder Version 2 on Printables

[@mrcarlpaton]

Cool review mate, I changed the door hinges too. Can't post links because KZbin deletes the comments with links.

[@Crosslink3D]

You can post a printables number here!

[@AndyRC]

Still love my k1. I have done quite a few upgrades mind you. It is now my best printer by far. I may pick up a k1 max soon once k1 plus comes out and price drops. Do you think the new nozzle is worth it? I have so many spare hot ends and nozzles for my k1. And keep up the good work Daniel. Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦

[@Crosslink3D]

Hey Andy, I think the new nozzle is making things easier to handle for the average person however if you have lots of k1 spares like me it’s probably not necessary to make the change. Thanks and greetings back from Germany 🇩🇪

[@dbeelee8564]

There are 2 differences between the extruder assemblies of the K1 & K1C. The K1C was built for abrasive filaments with it's hardened extruder and the unicorn nozzles are super easy to swap cold. In fact, the only way to swap nozzles is cold. Simply use the retract filament setting. This will heat the nozzle, retract the filament and extrude the nozzle clean. Be sure to unlock the extruder wheel before pulling out the filament. Next, use the nozzle temp control to room temp which will turn on the cooling fan until cool. Added note: I recommend extracting all filaments when a printer is not in use. Now that the nozzle is cool, use the supplied wrench to lightly unscrew the nozzle. In other words, if the filament has been retracted and I'm ready to turn on a cold K1C, I first install the proper sized nozzle (.4, .6, .8 sizes in the unicorn pack). Insert the nozzle and lightly tighten. This info is available on Creality's channel. The improvements in the K1C simplify's things closer to plug & play printing. So much so and as this is my first printer, the most trouble I run into is following all things printing how to's and troubleshooting tips from earlier than the K1C designed printers. These tips are not intended for the K1C, which in many cases, these previous 3D community problems have been resolved within it's design. If a problem pops up, follow Creality's K1C fix ONLY or problems/damage may occur.

[@dbeelee8564]

Replacement print bed with the silicone head cleaner are available purchased from europe OR by joining Creality's "club" in the USA. C'mon Creality, make the K1C bed available in stores ... like all your other printer beds.

[@notchipotle]

I wish they make an open frame version of this at lower price, I don't need an enclosed printer, I just need a fast corexy printer like the P1P

[@NathanielTeel]

After watching this video, I took the plunge and ordered the printer for myself. I'm curious though....have you found a way to load new filaments without having to work so hard to manually shove the filament through the tube to the extruder? I had my first spool run out mid-print and the slow, agonizing process of hitting the extrude button over and over to get the last length of filament out of the tube, and pushing the new filament through the tube....took forever. I'm tempted to try the top load option you shared, but then that means the run-out sensor is bypassed and the printer won't pause the print to allow a new roll to be added. Thoughts?

[@chrisbloem6639]

Bought a k1c very happy with it, unfortunately my screen is damaged and got a purple hue. Support was very helpfull and a new screen is on the way. Other than that im rly happy with it.

[@Steve_Smith65]

Great review. I love my K1C.. I plan on trying the Filtermount as I would like to dip into ABS printing.. I think its a massive miss on Creality's part not to include a spare nozzle.. 3 months after release and they are only just being seen.. Its really poor.. I am waiting on my delivery of the Microswiss hotend for the K1C..

[@Crosslink3D]

Oh Microswiss sounds expensive, too. Let us know how it went. Maybe join the livestream so we can chat

[@Steve_Smith65]

@@Crosslink3D Yeah its about 85 Euro for the kit.. but they have plenty of flowtech nozzles and always have good products, so it will be worth the money in the long run.

[@Crosslink3D]

Sounds great, let me know how it went

[@fintiki80]

Hi Daniel, Nice and informative video. However, you have installed this riser incorrectly. This front right corner riser should be in camera corner to avoid toolhead from hitting the riser.

[@cthulpiss]

Would love to see that video about Unicorn nozzles.

[@Crosslink3D]

I’m currently finishing the edit 😉

[@kckfen]

Which one is better, creality K1C or Flashforge Adventurer 5m Pro... i want a trouble-free out of box printer that dont need much to tinker.

[@Crosslink3D]

K1C would be my best choice. Better 3rd party support for add ons and a bigger community.

[@ductran5566]

I been using the K1C for the last 2 months, super happy with it, you can get great result, but for best quality, i would recommend upgrade the hot end to micro swiss, it's amazing.

[@DoRC]

If you want hassle-free get a bambu lab

[@AndrewAHayes]

Anything Bambu Lab, I have the X1 Carbon and its trouble free and the best print quality I have seen on a FDM machine!

[@kimmotoivanen]

5M and 5M Pro have real quick change nozzles, but they seems to have too little memory for proper Klipper. No Mainsail nor Fluidd web UI from FlashForge. I don't know if Creality named their new nozzle based on how difficult it would be to find a replacement 🙄 But with smaller motors and pulleys the print quality seems to have improved over K1. Creality Klipper printers have been unlocked to open source. BL is closed source and will be (did they try to hesitate publishing modified open source slicer sources?). Open source means something to some of us. BL X1C (without AMS) costs as much as K1C *and* K1 Max together, but it's not my money 😅 Bambu Lab A1 (when back in business) on the other hand might be really good choice, if coreXY or enclosure are not required.

[@heflar]

my K1C nozzle snapped in half right at the end of the hotend, i took the whole hotend off so ended up having to do a hotend swap so now i'm using the microswiss hotend for the K1C, wish i didn't have to do that tho.

[@Crosslink3D]

Was there a grub screw holding the upper part? I discovered on the Ender 3 V3 there is a grub screw pressing against the brass ring on the upper part. I did not know this and so broke off the nozzle from the tube

[@heflar]

@@Crosslink3D i managed to get it out once already with no problem so thought it would go in and out just as easy again... i was wrong. my new nozzle is working great tho, just it cost me as much as i sold my Ender 3 for.... also i'm going to buy a "BIGTREETECH SFS V2.0 Smart Filament Runout Sensor" because it can detect flow problems like clogs or jams which the stock one cannot detect.

[@Crosslink3D]

Great tip with the flow sensor!

[@AndrewAHayes]

Despite buying many Creality printers over the years I chose another machine when I wanted the latest super-fast printer, I did not even consider the K1 or K1 Max as I knew full well it would have issues, and I was correct, I think they are on the 3rd iteration of the extruder and the bed had warping issues. I chose the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon and AMS unit, and it has been an awesome printer, yes it is not perfect but compared to the issues I have had with Creality machines over the years it is almost perfect!

[@Crosslink3D]

Hey Andrew, thanks for letting us know! It’s fair points and my feeling is that everyone is still trying to catch up with Bambu Lab but still making a lot of compromises due to manufacturing costs and lack of time. Hope this is going to improve though

[@kennethewald1189]

It took me two days to get it working. All because of a problem with the documentation. They show a toggle switch on the main diagrams. I saw the hole where the switch should have been, but there was nothing there. The setup routine on the printer did a test that always failed when heating the hotplate. Contacted support and they asked me to check the voltage setting switch. I couldn't find one. So, since the unit shipped with a standard US 115V power cord, I assumed (incorrectly) that the voltage must not be changeable. We do not use 115V cables for 230V connections! Several support contacts later and me checking all the internal cable connections, another support tech said to check the voltage setting and sent a photo with two big red arrows pointing at that hole in the side! Sure enough, after leaning the unit so I could see inside the hole, there was a voltage change switch that was set to 230V! It wasn't a toggle switch as noted on the diagram, but a sliding switch. Being very precise in my use of the English language, I was looking for a toggle. Also, nowhere else in the documentation was there any mention of that toggle switch or about setting the voltage. Two days wasted because of unclear documentation.

[@TheMoye]

Hi @kennethewald1189, I've just checked in the "Quick Installation Guide" there's no mention of a toggle, it also says to use a flathead screwdriver. In addition, this type of switch is fairly standard in power supplies. 🤷 On the other hand, you need damn good eyes to see into the tiny hole on the side of the machine 🤣 I had a hard time! Personally, I had more trouble with the filament insertion step: "until you can't push it in any more". As soon as I felt resistance, I didn't dare go any further into the extrusion head, with the result that nothing came out when I printed.

[@kennethewald1189]

@@TheMoye I don’t recall seeing a Quick Installation Guide. But, I don’t recall lots of things! 😏😏

[@TheMoye]

@@kennethewald1189 👍🤣🤣

[@matuskunik2068]

i bought K1 Max 2months ago, but it's still in the box, because i don't have time to unpack and test.. maybe in summer during the summer holiday.. 😂

[@Crosslink3D]

Man, get this thing out the box and start printing the upgrades! 😉

[@gauravLDH]

And I thought I was the only one😂

[@erickruse4679]

After having the V3 SE for 2 weeks, I'm already seriously eyeballing this printer. I think I should have gotten this one instead.

[@skywalkr2]

lol agree. I gave up on my V3 due to needing CONSTANT maintenance

[@tytechguy]

Mine came with a piece of rubber that goes inside the top polycarbonate cover that guards against scratching of the cable chain. So that is fixed now. However, mine scratches the top cover because the cable chain rubs the top as it moves. Not a huge deal to me but they need to raise the cover a few millimeters. That would solve it. Other than that it's been a great printer. Coming from 3 VZBoT's the speed isn't out of this world but it is fast and doesn't sacrifice quality very much if at all. I have printed several spools of ABS, a spool of PPC, and some PETGCF and it handled all of them perfectly. Decent printer for the money.

[@frankcastle2814]

Why these people slap the filament on the backs of these machines..???? Such a lazy design.

[@notchipotle]

they want the side to look clean on the product picture, which is dumb