Create Custom 3D Printer Toolheads With The WhamBam Mutant

[@marsgizmo]

Very well detailed review! 👏😎 Happy to see they listen to feedback and improved it in V2.

[@fallensmoke8368]

holy shit marsgizmo is here

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

Price is good and with 15% discount it is worth every penny

[@oglaucio]

I was on the fence for getting one but your detailed and down to earth review made me pull the trigger. Used your discount code as well. Thank you!

[@ModBotArmy]

Awesome! Thank you for your kind words. Please let me know your thoughts when you get it up and running :)

[@RalliART1238]

Great video…. On the Klipper front, recently converted my E3V2 to Klipper, best move I’ve made in this hobby. Didn’t know I could wire the pi that way though, I appreciate the extra info!

[@cozmo4694]

i love how just 10 minutes after i finished the first iteration of my diy toolchanger quick swap system a video comes out about a wham bam quick swap system. fml

[@jneilliii]

You should consider putting blocks where the belt attaches to the sled, because that increased angle will effect the accuracy of your x axis movement. Ideally you want the belt to be parallel to the x axis extruded aluminum.

[@LisaHarsh]

I love that idea, not that I need it or want it for my purposes. But love the idea of being to turn a printer into a 3 in 1 printer. Look forward to seeing the diode addition.

[@jon9947]

Great video! I would double check that H2, I have two of them and neither of them are all metal. BTT might sell an all metal version of it, but Iv not seen it. They do sell all metal heatbreaks for upgrading it to all metal, but the people Iv seen use them have had issues with it. I think one of the best use cases for something like this is different size/type nozzles. I am ultra lazy sometimes. Its not like changing to a .6mm hardened nozzle for printing marble is difficult, but I sure would print marble a lot more often with something like this.

[@avejst]

Interesting video as always 👍😀 A simple Gcode in the slicer is also an option, when you are Changing toolhead. Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀

[@brandoneich2412]

Heads up, biqu h2 is does not include an all metal heatbreak out of the box. It comes stock with a PTFE lined heatbreak. They do sell stainless steel, titanium, or bi-metal heatbreaks separately.

[@SoulRetriever]

I've had the mutant v2 system for about 6 months now, while it's not for everyone and rather expensive I saw it as a way of having the hotend that i was testing/wanting to use and a hotend that just worked after that I got into using mixing extruders (there are some rather nice cheap ones on aliexpress that i wanted to try). My main issue with the mutant system is there should be a way of mounting a BLtouch or similar to the fixed plate so that you dont have to run multiple homing sensors for each hotswap plate you have. Like a lot have suggested here I jus have multiple 'printers' set up in my slicer with start gcode to make sure my printer has everything set.

[@ModBotArmy]

I wonder if they could make an adapter. I do like the idea of that though. Then you could use the fixed plate to level and all you would need to adjust is the z offset. Someone else mentioned that in the stream that I did on it.

[@jjpaq]

Curious, is there enough "meat" on the side of the fixed plate to drill and tap (or heat-set inserts, depending on how the GF nylon behaves) M3 holes for a BLtouch adapter? Could use the right side to avoid interfering with the X homing switch, or sacrifice build volume.

[@whambamtechnical955]

I am working on such a system and will be uploading it to Thingiverse soon.

[@SoulRetriever]

@@jjpaq Not particularly, from what I measured there's only 2mm of 'meat' with the rest of it hollow to accept the provided square nuts, not that you couldn't try putting an insert i just dont think theres enoguh there to hold it in place.

[@SoulRetriever]

@@ModBotArmy I'd hope so, the only issue i can see with the idea would be how not every hotend can be mounted in the right place so the nozzle sits between the sensor's extended vs retracted range (talking about BLtouch only here, i havent messed with other ABL probes)

[@celsotardeli9623]

Hi, is it possible for you create a video guide to add klipper on the Neptune 2 using the rasp zero? There is absolutely zero information on KZbin about it and your setup is amazing. Thanks from Brazil.

[@robertbeech888]

Another thing you could do with Klipper is add multiple printers, this way each printer you add will be setup to work with each new end you attach.

[@BH4x0r]

By the way if you have a board like an Octopus (higher end printer for example) you could use a spare driver if you have unused stepper drivers and switch between E0 and E1 for example or however you name it About e-steps and such you could add a small NFC scanner for an Arduino for example on the fixed plate, add a nfc tag to each mobile plate so the Arduino/other MCU can tell over UART or SPI what the esteps should be, and eventually even the offset to the nozzle for a BLTOUCH or other sensor, which is what i'm gonna do on mine as i just bought a Mutant V2

[@earidescentgenie1166]

I was considering getting one of these for the exact same reason you did. I love my Neptune 2D but I can't resist modding it. I wasn't sure if the mutant would work for my use case but after seeing your video I am more confident in trying it. Thank you for this very informative video! I tried the links to the endstop housing and the fan shroud but they didn't work for me. Can you check them? I would like to download them for my use.

[@DanRogers1985]

I want to pick one up just so when I upgrade parts I a can pre plan and print everything. But I also print a lot for our local FPV group.

[@hansdampf3172]

Does there exist a mutant or similar adaptation for Voron Stealthburner? A quick change functionality for swaping hotends would be nice also on the Voron.

[@TripodsGarage]

Great informative video 👍

[@DamianReloaded]

This video made me take look at my ender 3 hotend and realize how easy it would be to cut the cables that go into it and add a male/female molex for easy connect disconnect.

[@ModBotArmy]

Definitely! That is not a bad idea if you want some form of replacement option. It would be a few more steps to unbolt but if you just want replacements of the stock setup I cannot see why not do something like that. E3d does something similar with their thermistors and (maybe heater cartridges)

[@DamianReloaded]

@@ModBotArmy True. Maybe have setups for different materials already assembled? You know, different coolers and all. EDIT: Instead of Allan maybe use tumb screws for easy removal?

[@debonh3828]

I guess you need to adjust all the offsets when you change the head- x, y and z, although slight variation in x and y won't matter much. If you are using Klipper, try writing some gcode macros, then a number of adjustments could be made by including a single line in the gcode file.

[@whambamtechnical955]

The easiest way to deal with this is to create a profile for each tool in your slicer and include a G92 command in the starting script. Something like G92 X-5 Y-10 right after the G28 Command. You can also use M92 to change the e-steps if you are using a different direct drive extruder.

[@JohnMeacham]

If your belts are not parallel to the axis you will get cosine error, if you look at where you mounted the belts the triangle formed by them with the x axis will be of different perimeter based on where the carriage is on X. this causes distortion as well as varying tension. You should make some shims to attach the belt to so it is exactly parallel to the x axis or you will run into subtle frustrating issues.

[@ameliabuns4058]

you could've also added slicer profiles for each tool and make the start-gcode set them :) tho for klipper that's more complicated cause no gcode for setting e-steps

[@Eadsn]

The macro capabilities of klipper is really good, G29 is not present but can easily be added as a macro. I believe it would be quite easy to set the esteps in the start gcode and have a macro update the esteps, but I could be wrong 😄 I'm by no means an expert on klipper

[@6yjjk]

Take a shot every time he says "go/went ahead and" :P

[@MisterkeTube]

For Marlin you could create a gcode file for each config which would load eeprom values, make all modifications for that config and store to eeprom again. Keep all of those files on the sdcard and the after installing a certain "head", just start the printer, "print" the associated gcode from sdcard using the menu and you're all set ...

[@steve1]

In klipper you could make a .cfg file for each toolhead with [include toolhead1.cfg] [include toolhead2.cfg] at the top of printer.cfg and uncomment whichever one you are currently using, it would also allow you to set different offsets on different heads or for lasers.

[@Eadsn]

As you can use logic in macros it is perhaps also possible to include the correct config file automatically, given a start Gcode input from the slicer. I do love Klipper and the possibilities it offer 😁

[@steve1]

@@Eadsn I'm not sure about the start Gcode as I think klipper needs to restart to apply the settings but I could be wrong.

[@Eadsn]

@@steve1 True, it needs a restart if you want to read in separate config files. But a macro that just updates the values don't need Klipper to restart. Could perhaps work

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

OUCH OUCH ...... the belt you installed it upside down..... always put the loop so the belt teeth's / grooves interlock with each other when you than zip tie it. this way you avoid slippage on the belt.

[@ModBotArmy]

Yeah it’s been a minute. I have spares I will get it swapped out. In hindsight it makes a lot of sense.

[@whambamtechnical955]

For those interested in hooking up a simple laser, we did a full tutorial video on just that kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYDbopx6osx_Z9E

[@Luigik99tv]

I love this kind of stuff

[@robertlinder6414]

Thanks!

[@pieyed1302]

Another great, informative video. Thanks. PS: You think you have enough pegboard for those 4 tools!!! :)

[@ModBotArmy]

haha! I had a plan for it then changed my plan. Biggest issue is figuring out what I even want on it. Hopefully I can begin adding to it in the coming weeks. There is a lot of real estate :p. Open to ideas as well.

[@leloctai]

Is the mount repeatable enough to get perfect first layer every time without re-level?

[@whambamtechnical955]

Yes. You just need to setup each mounted tool to be the same. If all of your hotends are the same such as in a print farm its relatively easy. If you have different hotends than this can get tricky.

[@6yjjk]

@@whambamtechnical955 Easiest to have each tool resting on the bed when screwing it into the plate, so it's close? That's how I'd tackle it, without reading the instructions...

[@rms-repairmainanseremban8403]

How about mounting a waterjet cutting head?

[@Dsk001]

Your links to thangs are not working.

[@Jynxx_13]

5:11 Always zip tie belts tooth side to tooth side for "NO SLIP" 8:14

[@ModBotArmy]

Yup that makes a ton of sense. The teeth would bite into eachother and help to prevent slipping. I have a spare belt and will likely rerun it. Thanks for catching that.

[@Deathbyfartz]

man this is really awesome, it's just a shame with the price point. 37$ for every new mobile plate seems really steep, wish we had more projects like this at a affordable price point, if nothing else then a cheaper version. it just seems like overkill spending 100$+ to have have the ability to swap between just two tools on a sub 300$ printer. when you could literally just ghetto fix it with some terminals spare wiring, and a little 3D printing. i might just be cheap tho :D

[@TripleJAu]

Am I missing something.. Where's the thangs link?

[@ModBotArmy]

Nope I forgot to post it. It should be in the description now. Thanks for the heads up.

[@TripleJAu]

@@ModBotArmy no problem loving the work your doing... Sydney 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺here

[@AkiraFurball]

you cound easily put the gcode for e-steps etc into files and store on the sdcard, then just print the relevant one.. Direct_drive.gcode.. Bowden.gcode.. The cable connectors, that is just crazy, as soon as i saw it I thought wtf were they thinking!!! Besides it looking very UN-polished, you are poking screwdrivers between cables etc.. I am an electrician by trade and I cannot for the life of me think why that would be necessary.. That should be rectified right away IMO I get what you are saying about it resulting in a loss of build plate volume, I created a mod to relocate the BLTouch to firectly behind my hotend to get the closest possible offsets, it pushes the travel of my bed to the absolute limit to get dull bed coverage but I just could not reduce that print area by a few MM, yet i have never once used the full y print range, and likely never will, but psychologically its a big thing LOL

[@3D_Printing]

Two heads missing?

[@ModBotArmy]

What???

[@3D_Printing]

@@ModBotArmy only one hot end wires

[@BreakingElegance]

Once you Klipper you never go back

[@Luka1180]

The one thing that keeps me from buying a Wham Bam plate is that they all have to have that annoying "Wham Bam" logo...

[@ciderhat2760]

Its a cool product but for that price? Yeah no way...

[@ahmetmetinuzun]

Am I the only one seeing the issue with the belt at kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqOyZ6qJd8yUfs0? Both with the angle, and tightness. These would result in significant quality issues when printing towards the side edges of the printing plate.

[@ModBotArmy]

The angle I am not 100% on but the belts have been tightened. After that shot I did add tension to the belt tensioner.

[@ahmetmetinuzun]

@@ModBotArmy Tightness should be an easy fix but the angle is probably not. I think it would require the backplate to be redesigned. With that type of an angle drop with the belt, the amount of travel per each step closer to the edges of the bed would vary enough from amount of travel in the center of the bed. In which case, you would find dimensional precision issues. Obviously, this would not matter unless you print large objects such as helmets, or large objects that require precise fitment.

[@ahmetmetinuzun]

Regardless, great content, and educational as always. Quite a big fan of your objective, facts based, non-over-editorializing style.

[@ModBotArmy]

@@ahmetmetinuzun thank you very much for the kind words 🙏. Have a great weekend 😬

[@ameliabuns4058]

Insanely overpriced IMO. can 3dprint one that's much nicer for 1$~-5$ honestly also honestly they call it a tool changer but it's a quick swap system, not a tool changer! 149$ is insane. My actual tool changing addon for my printer costs less than that. and that's 2x bmg extruder 1x pancake nema 17, 1 motor, 1 motor driver, 1 step down, dowel pins, spheres for the joint. all that is still less than 149$. (I'm talking about an e3d style tool changer, like an actual one) not a fan of this product at all. even the jubilee REL system alone costs 45$~-40$.

[@odinata]

You decided to use the Elegoo Neptune 2 because absolutely NOBODY owns one. Show us an Ender 3...

[@ModBotArmy]

It is a super popular printer lol and what difference would an Ender 3 have made? Nothing would have changed. It is a very similar printer.

[@odinata]

@@ModBotArmy its not popular at all compared to the ender 3 not even a little

[@odinata]

@@ModBotArmy and here's another thing you might want to try:. Showing some video of different tool heads on a machine, in action.