Anet A8 Full 24V Upgrade

[@Drxxx]

I upgrade my ANET A8 ( video on my profile) with metal frame and glass bed. I testet him and result was amazing. It's more stabile, no ghost print, no vibrations. The 3d printer is 2 years old. I change a nozzle and works perfekt like first time.

[@ituneca1862]

you save me so much time. Thanks

[@LT72884]

If the y axis motor is hot, check resistor 16 on the board by the y motor pinouts. Its supposed to read 15000 ohms but mine read 23k ohms, meanimg on 1 volt was getting to the y axis motor which made it extremely hot

[@vn1500g3]

So, I forgot to also ask, why go with another Anet A8 Board? If going through the trouble to upgrade to 24V, why not go with and SKR 1.3 board instead? First, the SKR board is about the same price if you include a set of 4988 drivers and you get the benefits of having a new 32 board and being able to run Marlin 2.0 (Marlin 1.1.9 is the last of the 8-bit firmware, by the way). Not only that, but you would be able to easily upgrade the stepper drivers overtime whereas you have NO option for driver upgrades on the Anet board. I'm not trying to beat you up about it, I'm just trying to understand the decision. I do enjoy all your videos tremendously. Keep up the great work!

[@Михаил-л2ю3н]

Hello. we have Anet A 6 in 1.5 is 24 volts suitable?

[@garytoth8152]

Another great vid, I can recommend one cheep upgrade I’ve done on my a8, simple micro Sd card reader extension, makes for convenience with changing memory cards and also fingers away from the electronics

[@RCYIJustinizer]

#Crosslink Why am I getting my hotend and heat bed is shooting so up higher after the upgrade of the 24v Power Supply. Was it because I did not upgrade the heater for the hotend to 24v so, it shoot way higher than the expected temp?

[@Crosslink3D]

Yes, this might be the reason. A 12V heating cartridge on a 24V PSU ist going to overshoot quite a bit because it heats up much faster.

[@RCYIJustinizer]

@@Crosslink3D Thanks #Crosslink. And i had just installed the 24v heater and it is back to normal now.

[@yaaminahmed9727]

What spool holder are you using can you put a link please

[@thetruemystic_]

Great video! Can I ask where you found the Z frame braces? I can't find them anywhere!

[@LT72884]

Those ar3 called hulk braces

[@LT72884]

Just got my anet a8. It has v1.7 board and i have no idea how to flash marlin onto it. I dont need anything fancy, just want thermal runaway haha. I know my board has a bootloader all ready but no idea where to go

[@shuttlefishing]

Hi Daniel great video could you tell me if the new Anet 1.7 board comes with a bootloader installed.

[@Crosslink3D]

Yes, the board is pre loaded with a bootloader. However, you might be better off to flash the optiboot bootloader to free up some space if you like to enable features like mesh bed leveling.

[@shuttlefishing]

@@Crosslink3D Thank you for the reply.

[@GnuReligion]

The bridge drivers should control current to your steppers, so they should be alright. May run cooler.

[@jaseduar]

hi , do you have to change the pid values when upgrade to 24v?

[@Crosslink3D]

I would suggest to do a PID tuning after the upgrade

[@bikramnarayandashchaudhury]

how is your cold ?

[@Crosslink3D]

Getting better, still recovering...

[@StrangeRanger89]

Any feedback regarding the heat in the standard motors on the 12V versus the 24V? I recently bought an AM8 paper weight and in the process of making it a printer. I am considering this but don't have the money to upgrade motors at the moment

[@Crosslink3D]

I made a video back then: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIeyhXx_d7qKj7M

[@youris4095]

I have the 1.7 mother board but raited for 12v van i use that one 2

[@berndsandner7]

Großes Video will meinen Anet AM8 ebenfalls auf 24V mit einem SKR v1.3 und TMC 2209 umrüsten Anycubic Heizbett kostet ja auch nur noch 17€

[@isaac-h]

Good video!

[@youris4095]

I have a mks gen 1.4 but i dont get it working

[@vn1500g3]

Also, I see you're using a 24V, 15A supply. Any particular reason for this? Did you consider a slightly more powerful supply such as a 24v, 30A supply? I only ask because when printing ABS, the bed temp needs to be something north of 100C and a power supply with a bit more current capacity would help with heat-up time and maintaining such high bed temps (The bed is definitely the power hog in these systems).

[@Crosslink3D]

I measured out the power consumption. Unless you like to power a lot more stuff like lights and more fans from it, the PSU is powerful enough.

[@Crosslink3D]

I will test 100 degrees, let's see how it keeps up

[@vn1500g3]

Great!! Another great and informative video. Thanks! So, on the new Anet 1.7 board, did you copy and install your old firmware from the previous board or did it come with the factory stock Anet Firmware?

[@Crosslink3D]

The board came with stock firmware. I immediately flashed Marlin to it. Bootloader is already preinstalled.

[@suatsaltk4565]

Risk like a real men or just buy a new printer what is this plessure to change original parts of the anet a8 i relly dont understand you man but good video btw thanks

[@Blinkation]

the wires are not the problem, it's the bed connector. it jitters and move as the bed move and make bad connection that is what heating up. all the bed burns started at the connector. i replaced my connectors and never had a problem, if you are worried about the wires just replace to a thicker guage.

[@ahmedagbabiaka]

I think i'll upgrade my A8 to 24v, but if i'm buying a new board, i'll get a ramps.

[@jase171973]

Ramps doesn’t do 24v look into skr1.3

[@emegge]

Why 24V 15A and not 24V 30A?

[@dominicandashcam6763]

If your system requires 15A then you don`t have to use a 30A power supply. It would just be more expensive and require more space. the amp rating is what your power supply is capable to deliver as maximum. If you only connect 1A load to a 15A power supply, it will deliver 1A. 14A spare to connect more devices. if you connect 1A to a 30A power supply it will also deliver just 1A, 29A spare for other things that you could connect. But if you are not going to connect anymore then what is the advantage of using 30A? if the heat bed is 200 Watts and the heater 50 Watts, your load on those two items is 250 Watts. 250/24=10.4A The board doesn't consume much nor do the fans. There is only two motors moving at a time, the Z-axsis barely moves. I think it's enough but I could be wrong. when I get time I will attach my oscilloscope to my printer next time and check the voltage drop, ripple and current draw when the motors are running. what of an advantage would have a 30A power supply in your eyes, can you please explain the reason behind your question?

[@AlexV6]

24V is in no way safer than 12V. The lower the voltage, the safer it is. What was really meant is that the wires you use may melt due to a high current if their gauge is not enough. So, how much money has been spent on these heat-up time/safety upgrades? (New 24v heat bed, new 24v power supply, new 24v motherboard, new 24v heating element) And what you get in return? 2-minutes-faster heat-up time and a unique experience of buying new stepper motors that are overheating hence have a smaller resource now? In order to make it safer, I connected the MOSFETs and the motherboard using three different pairs of wires. I used the thicker ones for my heat bead MOSFET, the less thick ones for my hotend MOSFET and I connected the motherboard with my own wires. (the gauge is approximately the same as that of the thinner wires)