Cub Cadet 125 Plow Install and Testing

[@traderjack6151]

One week you’re chopping leaves the next week you’re plowing snow ❄️ thanks guys these old cub cadets are blast

[@Ihanginthemiddle]

love seeing the torque in the old K's when they cold start

[@garypaul1033]

Hey there. Your 1968-69 Cub 125 has what is called a Quick Attach system which continued on beyond these years. Once you attach it a few times it really is quite easy & you wont even think about it. The front of the connection has a spring loaded bar (latch assembly arm) that you press against (you were doing it for a moment) to allow the access points to open and allow the front pins to slide in therefore allowing it to attach without any need to bang it into place with a hammer. The rears attachment point bars are long enough to stay in place while you do this so they won't fall to the ground as you may already know. Regarding the bolts that were attached to the frame, I always thought those were for earlier Cubs before the Quick Attach system and I never use them & it works swell for plowing. I imagine they would add to stability if doing really rough dirt plowing and back dragging but I have never put any in place over about 40 years of use. (It's an original 125 in the family since new but was stored for about 14 years) The lift bar connected to lift the plow from the handle has two 90 degree bends on either end with two little holes so you can slide pins through it so you won't require a double nut to keep it in place. --But anything that works for you is swell!. Good Job! Check this out for more details on the blade for the 125 & other models from International: ccmanuals.info/pdf/Front%2042%20&%2054%20Blade%20Operatorsll%20Manual.pdf

[@gittyupalice96]

hahah thats too funny, I got the exact same tires on my 1967 cub 104. And use it as my plow tank. The reason I call it a tank is because it plows snow mounds as high as my neighbors Cummins plow truck does. Good tractor, always fires on the second rotation. I threw a honda car battery in mine. 600 cranking amps.

[@garypaul1033]

You did a great job!! Nice machine! You don't seem to be having much concern, but Rear wheel weight is a big help especially when it gets real slippery and the incline gets significant. I added weight as follows: Windshield washer fluid (about 38lbs for each tire = 77lbs total, or a little bit more as I cant recall if I filled them entirely); tire chains (about 25 pounds added for two good 2, two-link chains on each tire (12.4lbs each chain set)---You might not want to use chains if you are worried about the drive if you get a lot of snow and are always banging over the drive since it doesn't have much incline---I have a sizable incline so they help). Original iron wheel weights are about 50 pounds (25 pounds for each wheel). The two rear tires and wheels weigh 54.8 pounds together. I also live on a street of 3/20ths of a mile uphill and I like to get out in my rear drive car after a storm and I can really tear up the snow. I also clear a 2/5ths of a mile uphill walking path at the top of the street and the chains & weight keep it on track to clear the snow away. Regarding your drive I have a really heavy duty semi truck mud flap & I will soon be installing a strip of it on the bottom edge to slightly cushion the blade edge and also allow it to still clear snow & ice well. I have heard from other garden tractor owners that it's a swell way to clear the snow and keep the drive in good shape as those semi mud flaps are made of tough tough material...

[@traderjack6151]

Maybe your gas went bad , they normally don’t start that hard . Here in northern iL. I’d recommend 5w30 full synthetic, I made a weight box also mine was a 149 hyd lift I jst kept blade straight to push snow off property

[@deansarow6259]

Nice video,you don't need the sound of the angle grinder cutting the plate.Most of us know what that sounds like