Cub Cadet 3205 Charge Pump Repair & Testing

[@NeilLB7]

In 2000 bought a 3235 with a 54” deck to replace the 782 50” mower. In 10 years I went through 4 of these pumps. Hydro Gear and Cub had no explanations for me. It was always $300 each time plus the down time. It was only used to mow. I ended up selling the mower for $100 just to get it out of my way but I kept the Kohler 24 command with only 750 hours on the clock. It was a junk design and I recommend nobody even bother with this series. Glad I kept my 782. Still going strong with 2300 hours on a KT17 II and the Sunstrand hydro.

[@NeilLB7]

PS: Each time mine broke it was on flat ground just mowing along. I’d go go turn and no power steering. Then no forward motion. I never used the mower for plowing snow or anything. It was really disheartening since I paid around $7000 for this tractor in 2000.

[@SolunaGarage]

The problem with these tractors is that the tolerances on the charge pump with the single shim were not sufficient. It's a Hydro-Gear issue, not a Cub issue, technically. But it really is sad to pay that much for a machine and never really have it properly fixed.

[@NeilLB7]

At the time I was having problems there weren’t any known reasons and the cost to keep repairing was really starting to wear on my nerves. I lived the tractor otherwise. Power steering, foot pedal control, locking rear, lots of power over the KT17. And I really liked the shaft drive deck clutch system of vacuum idler engage on a dual belt drive off the PTO. The charge pump was the demise of a wonderful machine otherwise. At least for me.

[@bloajmj2680]

Did the output shaft have any side to side play? . Tore one down where the aux pump shredded , shaft was sloppy. metal entered the case where the needle bearing then got gritty. Shaft ate into the case causing any new pump installed to be shredded in 20 min. Fix was a new hydro case 900$ and shaft .

[@chrishart2064]

Having same problem with mine, im going to check that pump. Great job explaining everything, I appreciate it!

[@SolunaGarage]

Good luck Chris, let me know how it goes.

[@chrishart2064]

@@SolunaGarage ty will do

[@chrishart2064]

Mine drives fine but no power steering or lift, this is after adding the front hydraulic plow and lines valve etc. to it. It was fine before that.

[@mitchrenee]

Thanks for doing this series of videos!

[@SolunaGarage]

Absolutely - it's a common failure point and one that I haven't seen covered much, at least in video content.

[@mitchrenee]

I drained the hydro on my GT3200, the tractor only has 300 hours, but there is definitely metal rainbows in the oil. I do have the filter, and then had to win the lottery to buy the Cub tranny oil- lordy! 60 bucks a gallon. So before I dump that priceless oil in, I am going to pull this thing apart, and check into the charge pump, I have a feeling it looks like your broken one.

[@SolunaGarage]

I personally use 15w-40 heavy duty engine oil in the transmission. The spec for the hydrostatic pump is 20w-50 heavy duty engine oil. The Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid Plus is basically a semi-synthetic 10w-40 engine oil. Nothing that fancy.

[@SolunaGarage]

Fingers crossed it isn't the change pump, but it's not unlikely.

[@mitchrenee]

@@SolunaGarage Will keep you posted-

[@SolunaGarage]

Good news is that you can still get them. If you plan on keeping the tractor for another 10 years it's probably better to get the repair over with now before parts become scarce.

[@mitchrenee]

On to part 3!

[@SolunaGarage]

Enjoy! Hope it helps.

[@marvinmiihlbach7007]

Where do you get shims or would it be alright not to use them??? Thanks for the advice

[@SolunaGarage]

One shim is required from the factory setup, but I absolutely recommend two. You can get the shims through a Hydro-Gear distributor or through us, as we usually have stock. [e-mail]

[@GummyDe828]

All signs led me to this and mine wasn’t broken… any ideas? It sounded EXACTLY like yours and was giving me the exact same issue. 2007 got 3200.

[@SolunaGarage]

Hey Daren, If you are already in there, and this is the original charge pump, I would go ahead and replace it if you can afford it. I don't recommend replacing parts without a proper diagnosis, but it is the most likely cause. Even if it isn't broken, the internal clearances could be worn and if there is scoring at all then the flow and pressure that the pump delivers will drastically decrease. I would make sure you have the proper and new transmission filter installed as well. This can cause a lack of flow to the charge pump. There are more detailed diagnoses to go through, if you are curious or would rather put it back together to test. Send an email to [e-mail] if you like.

[@IceScreamRock]

the splines on my shaft are destryed, can the shaft be repaired?

[@SolunaGarage]

You will have to take the entire pump apart and take the shaft to a machine shop and see if it the splines can be repaired. You are probably better off getting a new (used) hydro pump assembly.

[@IceScreamRock]

@@SolunaGarage thanks I saw some on ebay!

[@SolunaGarage]

@@IceScreamRock I'd replace the charge pump on the one you get to be safe.