Cummins ISL Exhaust Manifold and Turbo Replacement

Exhaust manifold and turbo replacement on Cummins ISL in our 2003 Monaco Dynasty motorhome.

[@rotorhead8006]

Thank you so much your videos are Great Mike ! I am new to the coach world as we just bought a 2000 Dynasty. We put 6500 miles on it this summer and for some reason blew out ¼ of a gasket in the #3 hole. Thank goodness the gentlemen before me used Anti-sieze not one broken bolt!

[@zmotorsports62]

Thanks for the comments and thanks for watching. I'm glad you like the videos. Mike.

[@ro-cl2do]

Very Interesting and informative. I have to get my exhaust manifold replaced on my 2000 MADP and this gave me an excellent idea of what needs to be done. Thank you very much for doing this video. Wish I could have you do mine, but we're in Northern Wisconsin.

[@zmotorsports62]

Thank for watching and glad it was informative. Mike.

[@foretexas]

Nice work Mike.

[@jimbeam3286]

SD recommended your channel. Nice video. Good luck with your channel!

[@zmotorsports62]

Thank you. If you’re a gear head please check out the other videos on my channel. Thank you. Mike

[@eileenh4772]

Another super job Mike! JWH from Garage Journal.

[@zmotorsports62]

Thanks John and thanks for watching. Mike.

[@jamessmith7918]

Nice video . I wish I would have watched it before I had both of mine replaced. Cummins suggested I replace the intake and exhaust. It does look like a advanced job for most guys that just change their oil. I still feel $2000 for both side with parts, could have been worse. Thanks again

[@ScottKirby67]

I just found the same exact crack on my Cummins ISL400 in the 2003 Holiday Rambler Imperial. Your video is invaluable because I will have to go through the same exact procedure! This has got to be a defect.

[@zmotorsports62]

Scott, I am glad the video was helpful. It was quite common in these engines as well as its predecessor, the 8.3 mechanical engine and then the ISC, they all experience similar issues. The earlier 8.3's were a one piece manifold then Cummins came out with the "updated" two-piece manifold. I believe the ISL engine has been the two-piece design from its inception around 2002 but unfortunately they all seem to suffer from the same issues. Mike.

[@ScottKirby67]

Thanks Mike. I just got the exhaust manifolds out and upon examining the turbo, I see a bit of impact damage on the air intake impeller. I have no idea how that happened because my filter is in really good shape. I also can't tell how long it's been like that. Now I am reviewing the procedure for replacing the impeller, doing a complete rebuild, or buying an entirely new turbo.

[@lionelgreen5318]

Scott Kirby llc

[@bombay6760]

ScannerDanner referred me to your channel. This was an informative video.

[@zmotorsports62]

Thank you for tuning in and watching. I hope you will enjoy my other videos as well. Mike

[@michaelmurray9154]

Nice job Mike. I use the permetex as well. The next person in the future loosening the bolts could be me! Working in the heat multiplies the difficulty by three! lol

[@zmotorsports62]

Thanks Michael. You're right about the heat, makes it feel like it is taking forever. Thanks for watching.' Mike.

[@AP9311]

Hey Mike, great job on surfacing the manifold. I would never thought doing that after you just bought it. But gave me ideas :) But Scanner Danner sent me here to check out your channel :) just subscribed :)

[@zmotorsports62]

Thanks for checking out my channel and subscribing. Please check out some of my other videos. Mike

[@zebmullins4633]

Scanner danner sent me, very well made video you have a new subscriber here! And also I have a small ball peen hammer exactly like you were using and I never thought it would be so handy when I got it haha

[@zmotorsports62]

Thanks for subscribing and taking the time to comment, I appreciate it. As for the small ball peen hammer, I too use it much more than I thought I would. It’s pretty handy. Mike

[@tomdorman2486]

Thanks for the video. I'm about to try this same thing, broken manifold. The main concern is broken bolts.any advice to remove them if it happens?

[@zmotorsports62]

If they are broken above the mounting surface you can grab them with a pair of Vise grips after the manifold is removed. If they are flush or below the surface just be absolutely certain when drilling to remove that you are centered in the fastener. You definitely don’t want to get off to the side and into the head material. When I had broken bolts on mine when we first purchased the coach in 2007, I had a couple of each. They actually came out pretty easily but that was due to being drilled on center and extracted. I also recommend soaking with either PB Blaster or Kroil the night before to let soak in. This will also help to ensure you don’t break any more fasteners when removing. Lastly, replace all of the fasteners and don’t reuse them. I prefer to use all OEM fasteners and gaskets. Good luck and thanks for watching. Mike

[@kmclaren1987]

A job well done

[@zmotorsports62]

Thank you. Thanks for watching and following as well. Mike.

[@donaldross213]

Thank you for making this video! I have a 1999 Allegro Bus with the manifold leaks, patched them last year with some liquid steel to get me through the summer. The fix finally failed, now I need to do the replacement. My ONE fear, is breaking bolts, I understand they are hardened. Any tricks you can share as to how to remove without breaking? The coach now has 86K on it. In trying to spray with penetrating oil, the bolt sleeves block the liquid from reaching the bolts. Thanks so much! Don R

[@zmotorsports62]

I soak them the day before with either Kroil or PB Blaster then just before putting a wrench on the bolts firmly strike the head of the fasteners with a hammer to shock them and break some of the corrosion loose. The couple I have done came right out afterwards with the exception of the couple of fasteners that had broken. I also replace them with OEM fasteners as well as gaskets upon reassembly. Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching. Mike

[@Just2362]

ScannerDanner sent me here😋

[@zmotorsports62]

Thanks for checking it out. Please check out my other videos. Mike

[@rayzeller3269]

Lucky for me all of my bolts broke loose, I did weld some 1/2 sockets to a piece of 1/2 solid bar stock so I could show a little love with a hammer, one short one long. One note..... if Cummins tries to sell you a $412.00 bolt don't buy it. There are 11 exhaust bolts that look the same, there is one with threads that extend past the nut. Mine had nothing connected to the threads after the nut, needles to say I'll be returning the bolt. I cant stress this to much...... Warm the engine spray the bolts, repeat, repeat, repeat..... Brake Ease was invented for a reason. if you get stuck DM me.

[@ScannerDanner]

Nice job man, I'm about to tackle this on my 2001 American Coach. Just gathering data lol (aka watching other creators KZbin videos).

[@zmotorsports62]

Thanks for the comments and thanks for taking the time to watch. I’ve really enjoyed your videos. The American coaches are nice rigs. 👍 Mike

[@ScannerDanner]

Mike, I need some advice. My 8.3 Cummins engine has only 55k on it. 1. I am surprised to find my waste-gate frozen! Is there a way to free it up? What caused it to freeze up with such low mileage? I do not think I can take this front plate off this turbo without snapping all the bolts. (Major rust) 2. My exhaust brake is also frozen, unless there is a super heavy duty spring that keeps it open? I swear it works when I use it. And not just because the transmission downshifts, but I am almost 100% positive I can hear an exhaust tone change (though it is 40 ft behind me). I removed the actuator and I cannot even budge that arm that controls the butterfly plate inside. What made me check it was the frozen waste gate. Any advice you can give me will be much appreciated. I'll plug your channel in my repair video too. In fact I already mentioned you in the removal part of the exhaust manifold video. I love helping and working with other creators.

[@zmotorsports62]

Thank you. I would appreciate the plug. Like you I try to support and promote fellow KZbin creators as much as possible. As to your issues, unfortunately you are experiencing the negative aspect of a low mileage coach. Things that are supposed to move such as linkages seem to get corroded and freeze into position when not cycled on a regular basis. In order to free up both items I’m afraid you will have to remove them as I have not been successful freeing them while in position due to poor access on these coaches. The turbo wastegate itself should move freely once the linkage has been disconnected from the actuator. It may also be a good idea to remove the linkage just to confirm whether the issue lies with the actual wastegate or the actuator. Once the linkage is removed I use something to dissolve rust as well as carbon and work the linkage while liberally spraying the chemical to dissolve the carbon and rust while working the lever back and forth. Again, this is much easier with the turbo assembly on the bench vs. in the engine bay. I have found intermittent uses if both Kroil and Seafoam work well to free the valve. Similar advice for the exhaust brake. I’m assuming you have a Pac brake on your Cummins ISC. These will have some resistance when trying to open but you should be able to move the valve. I also recommend removing the linkage from the air cylinder to determine exactly where the problem lies. There is also a maintenance procedure listed on their site that mentions regular lubrication intervals to keep them functioning properly. I hope that information helps but I’m sure it probably wasn’t what you wanted to hear. 😜 Thanks again for tuning into my channel and I hope I have been some help. Mike

[@ScannerDanner]

Absolutely Mike. Thank you! If you're on Facebook I just posted some very quick clips of these issues with questions. Come over and say hello and I'll introduce you there too. ScannerDanner is my FB business page (of course). I put 90 psi to the exhaust brake actuator and it doesn't move. Not sure how much psi these need to open. The coach runs about 120 normally but again, I don't know what is put on these actuators. Butterfly is definitely frozen too based on your description (I separated them too if course). Same for the turbo waste gate. I pulled the actuator off first. I think it's all going to need replaced. Crazy part is I had no symptoms! Waste gate stuck closed helped with that and then I guess i was fooled by the strategies applied with the exhaust brake switch on? (Tranny downshifts and so on)

[@zmotorsports62]

I’ll check out you Facebook page. Ninety PSI should be adequate to move the cylinder and valve unless it is froze so unfortunately I think you’re going to be looking at least a removal and then trying to free the valves. I would definitely try to free them before replacing I think you will be surprised what you can do once you get them on the bench and work some chemicals in and moving the linkages little by little. Mike

[@davestallings7087]

Thank you sir for ther great video, I have a blown exhaust gasket on my 400hp 8.8L ISL its the #3 cylinder .....i have been told the 400hp is just a stroked 350 6bt so i can assume it would take the same Exhaust gaskets? Want to tackle this project myself and see next to nothing for parts for an 8.8L motor....crossing my fingers on bolt breaks{ i have about the same access as you did next to the bed in the back of the rig....but fortunately it is winter atm and should be cool and dry thanks again Dave

[@zmotorsports62]

Dave Stallings you are very welcome and I am glad you found this video helpful. As to the 8.9 ISL being a stroked 6BT, these two engines are not from the same engine family. The Cummins ISL has more in common with the smaller ISC (8.3 liter) than the "B" engines. Both the 8.3 ISC and the 8.9 ISL are sleeves engines whereas any of the smaller engines (6BT included) are parent bored engines. Some of the gaskets may be interchangeable but that is where the similarities end. Good luck on your repair. I hope it goes well for you. Be sure to soak your fasteners with penetrant beforehand as well as use some antiseize when reassembling. Mike.

[@pvcarmon1]

Manifold must be flawed design gas flow must be crashing into a curve causing uneven heat. Sux should look for after market manifold and ARP bolts with nuckle antiseize.

[@wayneszetela2179]

What a great shop and subject! I have a 370 so just trying to learn what could go wrong. How much was the Turbo?

[@zmotorsports62]

Thank you. This video was shot in my old shop. You should check out my new shop which is larger and much nicer. I have a shop tour video on my channel. If memory serves the turbo was approx. $1400 but I can’t remember the exact cost. Thank you for taking the time to watch and I hope it was helpful. Mike

[@TJ_Actual]

Great job, certainly doesn’t look the most easy to get to manifold! New subscriber here via @ScannerDanner

[@zmotorsports62]

Thank you for tuning in to my channel and commenting. I hope you enjoy my other videos. Mike

[@FixItStupid]

You Did Nice Work. My 2005 Newmar ISL Now Fuel Pump Job coming Up For Me Will Be checking The Manifold Too Thank You For Posting Your Work ! Sub You Too Gear Head I Am Too

[@zmotorsports62]

Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Mike

[@robertlozano7144]

How does my turbo work? Looks like the VGT ACTUATOR opens up a valve for the turbo to receive more air from the air filter for it to kick in.

[@zmotorsports62]

Google Variable Geometry Turbo and it will explain how your turbo works and how the vanes expand or retract to match demand.

[@marcocasillas5023]

Have you done the brakes on your Monaco and if so do you have a video on that and where did you get your parts thank great video

[@zmotorsports62]

I have not had to do my brakes yet. I’ve had them off to clean after a seal leak but I have not had to replace them. I’ve purchased brakes for others through my local NAPA but we also just had a new Fleet Pride go in near me that I may have to try as that is who we use at work. Thank s for watching. Mike

[@marcocasillas5023]

Thanks for the information

[@marcocasillas5023]

Have you found a way to get more horsepower out of your Monaco I have a '03 also I'm looking to get 100 more horses

[@ChrisClutter61]

I I'm catching up on all your videos and they are very interesting as well as informative . I have the same motor in my Allegro I'm wondering if you could give me a web site to source a manifold ... went to Cummings and they want me to sigh up for stuff

[@zmotorsports62]

ChrisClutter61 thank you for the compliments and for watching my videos. I am glad you find them helpful. As for a Cummins source, I have had great results using quickserve.cummins.com where I am able to look up all OEM part numbers. I purchase most of my parts from my local Rocky Mountain Cummins parts department. Once I have the OEM part numbers I also check on my NAPA account and cross reference to see if the part is available through NAPA where I have also sourced good quality aftermarket parts. Hope that is helpful. Mike.

[@ChrisClutter61]

thank you very much ... had a repair shop tackle the job

[@philliplively1905]

My 1999 country coach manifold cracked all the way thru and had 6 blown gaskets.

[@headforthehills3353]

I have broken bolts I think about 3. Manifold looks to be crack free. Do you think just replacing gaskets and bolts would be fine or also replace whole manifold also? When idling you really can’t hear the exhaust leak but when driving under load it’s pretty loud. Do you think it would be ok to drive for one last trip before I can get it fixed over the winter. About 500 mile round trip. 2001 newmar DS 8.3 330 isc

[@zmotorsports62]

I would advise against driving it if there's much of an exhaust leak as there is a possibility that you could burn a valve, however a little less likely than with a gasoline engine but still possible. I wouldn't replace the manifold if it's not cracked as it is now what is referred to as "seasoned". With a new manifold it is referred to as "green" and they can move around a bit at a molecular level until they become seasoned and take set. I would however suggest lapping the sealing surface because it will more than likely be a bit warped. I think I show in the video how I test with a feeler gauge to measure for flatness. Thanks for watching. Mike

[@headforthehills3353]

Thank you for your reply. I finally got around to removing the manifold today. I actually didn’t end up having any broken bolts. Had to use a little heat and soaked the bolts a few days before. Needed plenty of patience and it took about 2.5 hours getting the bolts out. One of the gaskets was completely blown out and manifold had two small cracks. Can I go online with Cummins to order or is it easier to just call. I want to get install kit for manifold and turbo also. On a plus my turbo looks alright. Thank you for making this video it was a huge help so far.

[@zmotorsports62]

You can order the parts from Cummins online or if you have a local dealer you can purchase them there. Personally, I like to use my local dealer whenever possible. Glad the fasteners came out without too much drama. Mike

[@64ls1nova]

Do you happen to have the part number of the manifold assembly you used? I have a 2001 ISC 350 in my motorhome that is cracked in the exact same area, but i'm having a hard time finding a replacement part number.

[@zmotorsports62]

Sorry I don’t have it handy. Your Cummins dealer should be able to pull it up by engine serial number. Mike

[@jimmcmaster6227]

There is a lesson on your turbo here. When you come to a stop, it’s a must that you let your rig idle for at least 5 minutes so the turbo can cool down. Remember, it is spinning way faster than the engine

[@zmotorsports62]

You don't say? And there is no time allotment necessary as long as it cools down before shutting the engine down. Most of the time coming off a main road and idling into a parking spot is sufficient. No need to sit and idle for 5-minutes if it's already cooled. Once it's cooled down it's cooled down regardless of if it's been five minutes or not.

[@jimmcmaster6227]

@@zmotorsports62 wow, you don’t have to be a dick about it you fat goof. A lot of people just pull off the highway and shut it down.

[@derekmurphy1996]

Where are you located? I was wondering if you recommend going with an aftermarket part or OEM for the turbo and manifold

[@zmotorsports62]

Northern Utah. I have had best results with OEM fasteners and gaskets. I also prefer to use OEM turbo components where feasible but I haven't had any issues with the aftermarket turbo parts I have used but that is based on quality research, not just the price. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike

[@derekmurphy1996]

Yeah that’s what Cummins says. Your video really helped understand the process. I’m thinking of tackling the project myself. I got a quote of $5,500 from a shop just for the manifold replacement not including a new turbo.

[@zmotorsports62]

It's not that terrible of a job to be honest. If you're at all mechanically inclined you should be able to tackle this job with confidence. Mike

[@robertlozano7144]

Do I have to put some kind of sealant when putting the two pieces together?

[@zmotorsports62]

Nope. It’s just a slip fit that allows for some expansion and contraction. Mike

[@robertlozano7144]

Thank you, you have been a big help

[@robertlozano7144]

@@zmotorsports62 I have a ISB 5.9 L CUMMINS diesel. My turbo has a VGT Actuator .I am having trouble getting the new turbo to start up when I need more power.

[@zmotorsports62]

I don’t understand what you mean the turbo won’t “start up”. A turbo rubs off the exhaust and spools up to build boost as the RPM increases and exhaust volume and pressure increase. You may have to take it to someone to diagnose as things like this are difficult to diagnose via written communication. Mike

[@marcocasillas5023]

Can you help me on setting up my trailer break controller on my '03 Monaco I hooked it up to the tail lights and it's locking up the trailer brakes what to do

[@zmotorsports62]

Not sure I can be if much help. There’s a lot of controllers on the market. I didn’t tap into my lights however, I hooked up my controller input signal from the air brake switch. Mine is located on the firewall in the generator compartment. Could also be an adjustment on your controller itself. Mike

[@marcocasillas5023]

@@zmotorsports62 thanks that's a lot of help I'll look for that switch

[@johnnordstrom7171]

You said something about replacing all the fasteners. Did you mean you replaced all 12 Manifold bolts

[@zmotorsports62]

That is correct. I’ve had issues with the exhaust fasteners on Cummins engines so whenever I have a manifold off I replace all of the fasteners with new OEM. Mike

[@rfesenko82]

Hi guys! Im recently got 2003 Monaco with ISL engine it has missing turbo, I bought HX40W turbo installed it and have only 5pound boost pressure, what it can be wrong? Thank you

[@zmotorsports62]

It's hard to say, it could be a multitude of things that affect low boost. Are you testing the boost while sitting still? It really needs to be worked to get accurate boost readings. Otherwise I would say more than likely you have a leak somewhere in your intercooler system, a boot possibly as that seems to be the most common.

[@rfesenko82]

I drove the coach with new turbo the gauge show 5psi at 2000rpm and the coach has no power

[@zmotorsports62]

I would start checking for boost leaks which are quit coming then fueling issues. Fuel filters possibly restricting fuel supply?

[@rfesenko82]

I’ll try that thanks, but the way, what is the original turbo should be in the 400hp ISL?

[@zmotorsports62]

Can't remember the nomenclature on the OEM Holset. Earlier ISL's were wastegated and later were VGT's.

[@normogaard1]

How much were the parts?

[@zmotorsports62]

I can’t remember off the top of my head as that repair was 5 years ago. I would have to go back through my maintenance records and I don’t have them with me right now.

[@AmmoMaster]

ALWAYS !!!! Pressure wash your engine compartment before starting work.... do your self a favor