How shoulder retraction will transform your climbing

The shoulder complex is one of the most complex joints in the body and it's really important for all climbers to fully understand how it works to prevent shoulder injuries and improve climbing performance. We'll specifically be focusing on scapula retraction, and how it affects the rotator cuff muscle function. We'll also talk about common rotator cuff injuries and subacromial impingement syndrome!
The aim of these videos is to really understand why to do things a certain way instead of blindly following techniques. If you enjoyed it, check out:
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Fixing the arm pump: • 6 ways to fix an arm p...
Biomechanics of the deadpoint technique: • Biomechanics of the de...
👉 Consider subscribing if you found this interesting! 👈
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Contents:
0:00 Intro
0:21 Anatomy
2:03 Biomechanics
2:21 Improved stability
2:36 Improve strength
3:19 Reduce risk of injury
4:17 Subacromial impingement syndrome
5:31 Summary and caveats
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Who am I? A junior doctor working in Australia with a special interest in the musculoskeletal system and biomechanics.
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Follow me on:
🔥 Facebook: / curiousdoc99 🔥
#climbing #biomechanics #rockclimbing

[@telestix6606]

As someone with well over 36 dislocations, 3 shoulder surgeries and lots and lots of rehab. I have to say this was really well done. I have done a lot of shoulder research and reading and found this totally on point and concise. Nice video

[@jonny4233]

I've had maybe 15 dislocations/subluxations (probably a lot more) and 1 surgery. I always try to focus on retracting my scapulas while climbing, and I always feel quite nervous performing big dynamic moves.

[@telestix6606]

@@jonny4233 Me its 90 degree hand raise,(arm out sideways then hand straight up at elbow) my last sugery included a bone block so it should never come out but still scared when ever I need to make that move.

[@RyanSmith-mz1rp]

how did you dislocate your joints so much?

[@manuelb9294]

I'm in the same boat i have had about 80 dislocations only one surgery. This is a good technique. But if you are doing reachy climbs its not practical to retract the scapula like he says. I'm scared of more surgeries i dont want to limit range of motion

[@telestix6606]

@@manuelb9294 For me the issue was it was just falling out. these are actual dislocations puppy pulled it, doing laundry, sleeping. I had to get surgery and while there is a loss in range of motion for sure it actually hasn't been too limiting

[@ravnicahistoricalsociety5660]

My climbing improves more from watching these videos than it does from actually climbing! Thanks doc!

[@radimm5936]

super comprehensive summary, thanks for the time and energy making this video

[@sakaricajanus90]

Another problem that contributes to subacromial impingement is not being able to posteriorly tilt (or tip, in some sources) the scapula! I feel like this also comes up in climbers as it's made worse by tight pec minor, also pretty common for all of us :)

[@joemorris5887]

Very clear and concise informative video! I'm currently researching to be a coach and really appreciate your work. More on the wall climbing video examples of the concepts you describe would be great :)

[@ibbumpn]

Could you show some exercises so we learn how to properly engage the scapula? In particular how to train on a hang board?

[@bouldernodenwald6530]

This would make the videos much more significant for beginners and could also solve problems for good climbers

[@alexcouret]

I'd suggest scapula pull ups: hang on a bar or hangboard (I'd suggest a bar if you're a beginner), completely relaxed, and then lift yourself without bending the arms at all. The only way is by retracting the scapula. Do 10/12 of those and repeat 3 times. You can try to mimic the movement without the bar first if you're not sure basically pull your shoulders down while having your arm up.

[@CuriousDoc]

Great idea, not an area of expertise for me but I'll look into it, cheers

[@SBW23901]

Some really common and easy-to-perform exercises for scapular mechanics are seated scap pinches (just pulling your shoulder blades together and holding for a few seconds), seated or bent-over rows, and scapular push ups. The key to these is making sure you’re keeping your scapular retractors engaged while you do them! It’s easy to “cheat” a lot of these by using more posterior deltoid and biceps to perform the motions. You can also advance to hanging scap retractions or some different forms of TRX band exercises if they’re available to you.

[@mariamueller1946]

There are plenty of videos from climbers about beginner hangboard training!

[@AlecARGH]

I find these videos to be fascinating and so helpful for climbing better!! Thanks!!

[@FiVorT98]

Just found out about your channel through some climbing videos and i love it, keep it up!!!

[@pieterboning]

Very cool and informative! I love your videos on climbing

[@rafaskocho]

I really enjoyed the way you explain everything in the video, it would be awesome to have one about the wrist!

[@guillaumevanparys2365]

Hey! Just stumbled upon your videos and I think that they are amzing! Nice work, clear explanations and interesting topics.I would particularly be interested in a video of the biophysics of piano playing but I know that it is a vast topic. Thanks for the videos!

[@WonderfullyWendy]

Loved the climbing related content!

[@rikvdmark]

Awesome video, this gave me a lot of vert valuable insight 😁

[@yoelmorales208]

The explanation is so good

[@toddoskin]

Awesome work wasim! Great work and thanks for making this video!! The 3d animation of the skeleton and muscles is also very helpful.

[@CuriousDoc]

The man, the myth, the legend

[@toddoskin]

@@CuriousDoc Hahah. I love the shout out too 👌. Keep up the great work! It's impressive how you can make these videos while also training to be a doc!

[@anthonycraven7147]

Very useful, all climbers should see this analysis

[@willtsaivlogs8504]

Yes sir !!! great work bruz

[@Sven-cw1dz]

Wow i’m really glad i found this! This is my first year of bouldering so i think that learning this now means i can get change my way of climbing easier than if i learned this later (i’ve only been bouldering for three months at most)

[@darinanikolova6987]

That is exactly my case. I just found this video and I have been bouldering for 3 months as well.

[@BeingManda]

That was so useful thank you!

[@charlieweston5588]

Great video! Im an orthopaedics implant designer with multiple dislocations and surgery (largely from climbing) and still learnt a ton. Very concise and well explained with animations. Ps great bit of chillhop in opening!

[@sicksidemadness]

I would never hire you if you learned a lot from him :(

[@frankheiser2775]

very informative! Subscribed :)

[@trimax23]

Great video! Thank you for making it and sharing your knowledge. I will definitely use your insights in my next climbing session at the gym. I am curious though about one thing: how did you create those fantastic animations with the moving arm up and down an the muscles adjusting to the movement? Those animations showed very clearly the concepts you were explaining and would love to see more of those for other climbing movements: like what happens when holding a sloper, or pinching a hold. Thank you!!!!

[@CuriousDoc]

A software called Complete Anatomy :)

[@DavidGilling]

Fantastic video. Loving the nerdy content :-)

[@jeancammas2134]

Thanks a lot man for your content. I’m going thorough a phase of a lot of pain in my shoulder and I’m not quite sure whether it’s tendinitis or something else but this made me really aware of what I’m doing wrong. You certainly got a new subscriber here 💪👏👏

[@sicksidemadness]

Ypu should certainly contact a practitioner that knows how to treat your shoulder. This lad here does not seem to have a deep knowledge of shoulder problems and kinda lacks some important biomechanics too.

[@allezvenga7617]

Thanks for your sharing

[@geemail369]

Good one! subbed.

[@pascaljutras178]

It also helps to keep your upper body closer to the wall, in most of situations it is an advantage.

[@augustinechao1685]

Love this series! I'd like to know potential injuries of the elbow of climbers,THX

[@michaellika6567]

Hi! Loved the video and the level of depth and detail, what software are you using for the simulation?

[@WontTrout]

Wow, subscribed

[@MrHancholo]

Thank you learning something new to apply for climbing and overall use. I'm 256 pounds and enjoy climbing.

[@s10blazzing]

Love this video, as a medical student and novice climber!

[@ImTooSwFT]

I used to get repeated shoulder/rotator cuff injuries that would cause the thumbs down test to cause pain, it was incredibly frustrating but after a year or 2 of direct strength and conditioning focused on making the whole shoulder joint as resilient as possible I've been pain and injury free for quite some time :)

[@tsotnedadiani7407]

thank a ton ! can you do video on the scapulo muscle injury too ? how can one detect the problem and so on

[@europekate3832]

Thank you doc for the excellent videos and the simple explanations. I am a pediatric physio from Greece interested in finding exercises for strength and flexibility specifically for children involved in climbing.

[@hapmaplapflapgap]

I used to practice archery, that really helped in learning to retract my scapulae. Sadly I cant really train it too well outside of archery and climbing.

[@iangarnerlerose]

This is fantastic! Can you Please do this same analysis for archery??? Nothing like this exists for archery and I have been searching for over 6 years.

[@besiix]

Really helpful video. I find myself chicken winging when I get tired. Interesting to know why! I could have done with a good overview of what it means to retract the scapula correctly

[@jaasoonl]

3:25 is the money shot!

[@sibrilliant]

Love this

[@LucasdaMatta]

jobe's good here. thanks for the vid

[@themainz10]

Hey really great video. I wanted to ask a question as recently I got a shoulder injury and did an MRI, I was detected with Type-II acromion. What are tha chances that it will hinder my climbing if my goal is to climb harder grades in the future. Thank You!!

[@dumplingbao2238]

u r a legend

[@kajizman8848]

great vid, can u make videos about biomechanic of paddling in whitewater? or maybe kayaking. i would love to watch those

[@CuriousDoc]

Great idea.

[@DrBoFitCare]

What are you doing for your positive impingement test doc?

[@elias3026]

Can you do one for volleyball spiking?

[@ethangreyling553]

Been experiencing some shoulder pain after climbing for the last week. After watching this video I now know that it is subacromial impingement

[@saraayala895]

I really like your videos but...am missing completely you mentioning the Serratus Anterior muscle and how important is in all of the shoulder problems

[@Deathbynature89]

I have rewatched the first half of the video twice but I don't know what scapular reaction actually looks like, what is the actually technique, and that makes the rest of video hard to follow. When I do Assisted Pull Ups am I trying to pull my shoulder blades together? Are my Traps pulling the Scapular bones in towards each other?

[@ek9155]

PT here. There are many more aspects to confirming if you have true subacromial impingement than just an O'Brien's test. Seek a full evaluation if you have shoulder issues

[@sophietwyford6866]

Are there any ways to treat/lessen the pain of these problems?(I am a climber and have previously been to physios but have crunchy shoulders)

[@randomdamian]

Question, why are my shoulders making cracking sound when moving? It happens when I do "circles" with my shoulders.

[@ingaming5722]

Great and precise video! What program do you use for anatomy visualisation? Looking for a program for this.. Thank you

[@CuriousDoc]

Complete anatomy! Really helped me through the med school days

[@ingaming5722]

@@CuriousDoc thanks!

[@silentdiscretion2657]

Didn't even know I should be doing this. I've always just done it as a way to get closer to the wall lol

[@badboy860000]

I would have liked some examples of what does mean for actual climbing. I didn't understand how I should climb differently from only listening to medical terms. Kinda disappointing :(

[@fred4925]

agreed. definite room for improvement in defining his terms for the layman, and more important (as you can look up terms), is demonstrating the movements clearly.

[@j1o5n9a8s]

In archery you also rely much on the shoulders, are there similar injuries possible?

[@CuriousDoc]

I would imagine so!

[@Goofygreyhoundgoober]

Although I am hugely in favour of climbing with “active” (retracted) shoulders, retraction won’t really change the length of rotator cuff, as retraction is a scapular movement, not a glenohumeral one.

[@CuriousDoc]

The rotator cuff muscles originate on the scapula and retraction is a scapulothoracic movement. The idea is that it engages the rotator cuff

[@TheXeeman]

so how do we strengthen our rotator cuff muscles? i have a bit of impingement in my left shoulder :(

[@SBW23901]

A couple major functions of your rotator cuff muscles are external rotation and abduction of your arm (abduction=making a “t” shape with your arms and body). If you have some free weights, lie face-down on a bench, tuck your elbows at your side, and rotate your arms outward until they are in the same plane as your body. If you have resistance bands, shut on end in a door or tie it around a handrail. Stand with your body oriented 90 degrees from the door or rail, and grab the band with the arm that’s farthest from the band. Tuck that elbow, and rotate your arm out (slow and controlled). You should feel all of these in the back of your shoulder. Also, use bands or free weights to make a “t” pose and slowly let them down to work on that abduction mentioned earlier.

[@TheXeeman]

@@SBW23901 Wow thank you

[@crimsonraen]

Definitely great points, but without showing what it looks like, wont be helpful to a lot of people new to climbing. (A lot of hangboard videos show what this looks like.)

[@kristinapipova5572]

With all regards very nice Video, but Empty Can has 74% sensitivity 30% specificity when it comes SA impingement....so not sure this is ideal Test to showcase...you would need whole testcluster....

[@2funk2bpunk]

The thumbs down test applying pressure down with the other arm doesn’t hurt. But getting my left arm INTO that position, the internal rotation itself, hurts. Can’t empty a kettle without pain. Do I have SIS? 🤔

[@SBW23901]

We call this the “empty can” test, and it’s usually performed with the arm totally out to the side. This lets it isolate rotator cuff better. Internal rotation with cross-body adduction can be indicative of shoulder impingement, and we normally use the Hawkins-Kennedy test and Neers test to check for impingement. If you’re having pain getting into that position, there may be a little irritation from impingement. Work on your posture, stretch your pec muscles, and work on those scapular exercises!

[@TurnerWFU]

Would have been helpful to show some individuals actually retracting their scapula, something more clear to demonstrate what it looks like and how to engage them.

[@TheMnnoa]

Cool video! Could you do something about why it's so much harder for women to do a pull up compared to men?

[@user-qn9ku2fl2b]

in the absence of specific training women typically have much, much less muscle mass in the upper body (arms and shoulders, lats for instance). Plus men tend to do more upper body activities than women

[@sigmastodon]

If you lack ideas: how to prevent and cure climber’s elbow tendinitis… a loooot of climber’s experience it. I still have mine for 3 years now.. and it doesn’t go away whatever method I try…

[@CuriousDoc]

Thanks for the suggestions

[@user-qn9ku2fl2b]

2:42 I don't think you actually mean rotator cuff muscles here

[@sabaca304]

cool, my shoulder didn't hurt like yours

[@Sepp2009]

climber here: do you havea good mental cue to remind me to retract the scapula correctly while climbing?

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

You only need to lock in shoulders for hard crux moves. Most of the time keep them relaxed. Learning proper breathing is key.

[@jaimeanderson9348]

Awesome video! So I very painfully failed the thumbs down test on my left arm... now what?

[@CuriousDoc]

Thanks! See a physio or a doctor - really common issue and can get better if you do the right things :)

[@SBW23901]

I second seeing a physio (or doc first depending on your insurance/country). Until then, work on your posture, stretch your pecs, and strengthen those scap muscles!

[@Joseph-mv3rz]

Well I learnt that I don't have that thing

[@Mylada]

I disagree on the chicken wing point. Its completely safe and effective position if you have to mobility and strength to do it. Chicken wing allows you to pull on a incut hold if you must keep your body close to the wall, as it would be hard to get your arm between the wall. This is why sometimes even the strongest and most skillful climbers do this e.g. Aidan Roberts.

[@CuriousDoc]

Good point, thanks for the insight.

[@worelogi9]

I don't think you're describing the regular positions climbers (at least beginners) find themselves in here

[@Mylada]

@@worelogi9 My point is just that there arent any rules. Positions are not inherently injurious. If you never use them, they can be as you are untrained in them. Still, if you find a technique that makes it easier, but is"not correct" dont care about it and use it anyway.

[@climbonlinecouk]

“Bad” movement used occasionally for climbing isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Frequently used “bad” form will more likely lead to injury.

[@k-yo]

Squidward is not amused.

[@playermartin286]

You need upward rotation and medial rotation when the arm goes overhead. What the hell are you talking about?!