Custom CrossGanty 3DPrinter

[@VaporizationEnt]

Nice Work! Looking forward to the first Prints on this machine!

[@JaredHoush]

Beautiful! I should stop being lazy and get my cross gantry in less embarrassing shape. Thanks for sharing. It's motivational.

[@MrRocksalt]

It's a tough job to align those rails. Never again this way as it needs a steel halo on top. Lots left to do, but that is not tedious and goes fast.

[@_krazy_198]

When showing details need to bring the thing you want to show into focus then hold steady for a few seconds so peoples brain can take it in. I felt like I was on one of those amusement rides where your in the cart and there is just flashes of stuff jumping out and then gone. This isn't hate, just letting you know. nice work on the machine. Had to look back through a few videos. If you still need to dampen the frame, the big industrial cnc lathes sit on a metal tub that is then filled with sand and the holes sealed shut. The linear rails are are bolted to the solid part on top, under it is basically a sheet metal tub. To move them the sand is vacuumed out into buckets then put back in again.

[@MrRocksalt]

I don't disagree, and I understand what you mean. The video was a "fly by" type video. No comments, no text, just an overview. You can pause at any time and look. I will fill the top 4040 gantry with epoxy. But you know... sand does sound neat.. but I think it will go everywhere in there as I didn't seal up each cavity.

[@_krazy_198]

@@MrRocksalt With sand. Think about making a sheet metal table that is basically a tank with thick top that the printer bolts to. The top is were you shim and square it up then fill the lower half with the sand. Any that ever falls out goes to the floor and not on your machine. Five plus five gallon buckets of sand in the base and you are getting some big boy weights and sand kills vibration. Might be over kill too depending on how far your wanting to push. Again. nice work.

[@MrRocksalt]

@@_krazy_198 That sounds easy to make. I was hoping to aim directly at the COM the moving mass is to get the best effect, cheap.

[@TheGunslingerman10]

T2209 Steppers? Awesome build!

[@MrRocksalt]

5160 @ 48V for XYE, 2209 for Z, Z1, Z2

[@TheGunslingerman10]

​@@MrRocksalt very nice! T5160's are awesome.

[@wildniscamper7276]

use ball screws on the z axis instead of belts! (but make sure the ballhead is only tight in z direction and is free to move in xy - this way the curve of the spindle is not transfered to the bed)

[@jamieclarke321]

What’s wrong with belts though? There’s no real benefit to ball screws in this application and they only add complexity

[@wildniscamper7276]

@@jamieclarke321 its not wrong, but just because it works doesent mean its good.. its percision. the linear rails adding friktion to the system. the belt is elastic. so you get backlash. also you dont need fast movement but high position accuracy and repeatability. so belts are a wrong choise on terms of mechanic. cheers

[@jamieclarke321]

@ ball screws can gyrate around their axis leading to large z banding and layer inconsistencies. To prevent that you need additional mechanisms. Vorons run belted Z and many people have them tuned to get great print quality. Hevort uses ball screws with wobble X and for the cost it really doesn’t seem worth it

[@MrRocksalt]

@@wildniscamper7276 If that were true then the top gantry should be screws vs belts? I think your logic is flawed here.

[@wildniscamper7276]

@@MrRocksalt if you forget about mass and acceleration yes.. but like i said in z you have a high mass and you need low speeds but high stability..... but in x y you need speed and as low mass as possible.. so i dont know what your logic is... for sure you get away with belts but its just not the BEST solution . cheers

[@chrisgray21]

That is a proper piece of kit, great work, is this the one with the welded frame?

[@MrRocksalt]

Yes, most of the frame is welded. But it is not full out welded, if you understand what I mean. The extrusions only have so many accessible t o weld. So it's all bolted together and welded. The top hat is full welded and no corner plates or 90° brackets. Very stiff.

[@chrisgray21]

@MrRocksalt love hearing and seeing updates on your build (and ducts) keep up the great work 👍

[@skimachco4198]

Thing is rad! Af. 👍

[@dicaspero]

hype, but where part/hotend cooling fan? Are you going to run a tube from the "vacuum cleaner"?

[@MrRocksalt]

In the video there is a port in the back of the printer where the air is coupled to a hose. I had the duct off the printhead in the video. My current situation is that I may be moving the pump to the top of the printer vs under the bottom. To make work from the bottom I need a large diameter pipe leading to the top to reduce the losses of the long hose. So at this state, I am on the fence as to use the pump from under or on top.

[@dicaspero]

@@MrRocksalt Nice, I'd suggest top for easier tube routing, but I don't know if the printer needs to be compact or not. Keeping it in the bottom would be more compact.

[@specialingu]

whats the foam? for? insolation? :) just curious, nice build :)

[@MrRocksalt]

I found that floor mat and wanted to see if it dampens noise. It does a little and gave me a chance to see how it fit/ETC to see how it would go with normal insulation. Another test basically.

[@cristianboivin5832]

What are you calling this crazy thing?

[@MrRocksalt]

MelT-N-AtoR