Custom guarding on the Hardinge HLVH

I cover the use of neoprene diaphragm sheet material to make way covers on the Hardinge HLVH lathe and other machines. Also cover aspects to consider on mounting digital readout scales.
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I am "robinrenzetti" Instagram lots more content there!

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I love the fact that you put so much thought in keeping your machines in good shape - A lot of jobshop machines look like they where burried in a pile of dirt for thirty years. I consider building a sheetmetal guard for my crossslide too, especially as I will have the glass scale mounted to it. Your scale mounting on the bridgeport is something I have so far only seen on the swiss Fehlmann machines, they have the scales also integrated in the slides. Thank you for sharing!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Stefan, glad you find the content useful. Thanks for stopping by and commenting! ATB, Robin

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Always happy when you invite us to your shop :) Beeing in the process of doing some work to the lathe - Including mounting glass scales, your video came just about the right time :) I will do something in the line of your covers with the sheetmetal and the neoprene. I always have rags or shoptowel on the bed of the lathe, but thats anything but convenient.

[@rupertpowell]

As I get more and more in to metrology and precision myself I have to constantly think of Abbe's error and your DRO strategy is a great example of how variability can creep in when you are hunting the highest precision. I like the way your mind works Mr Renzetti - Your videos are among some of the most informative on KZbin. Many thanks.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks for the kind words Rupert and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@ianjoubert7505]

Robin, once again, thank you for taking the time to show how you do your operations, this is where the difference between theory and practice is clearly visible, book knowledge will educate one to a certain point, but practical knowledge is PRICELESS!! thank you for sharing yours

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Ian and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@paulanderson2803]

Novel approach on the glare control, and much more comfortable than my sand paper suggestion. Thanks for the ideas and the videos.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Paul and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@amundsen575]

thank you so much , I see this is the highest quality way to do way covers. I understand not to rush to get a mundane task done, every time I go too fast I wind up doing it twice, so take your time and cry about the time spent one time! I appreciate your material and adhesive choices well engineered.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Amundsen and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@RobB_VK6ES]

For the first time in 30 years of running milling machines and borers I find myself running a lathe in a serious way and the first lathe with a digital readout. This Video has instantly pointed out the errors I am seeing as the machine begins motion and engaging the work.

[@ROBRENZ]

Glad ;you found it useful Rob and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@io3204]

Very nice video on machine conservation in the home shop. Another technique that worked quite well on my minilathe is building a sealed acrylic housing around it and filling that up with preferably clear epoxy. It minimized corrosion and wear on the ways to an absolute minimum and I also saved some money on the digital readouts, a plus I hadn't even thought of before. Haven't had any trouble with the machine after this modification. Thanks for sharing.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks io, that is pretty funny. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@jonrbryan]

Your concept of "quick and dirty" (at 21:00) was good for a chuckle. I salute your commitment to your art, sir.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Jon for the kind words and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@MrJugsstein]

Robin don't worry about the glare Did not notice it in the first place. I think we are more interested in what you have to say. Thanks again for your time Will

[@WacoA.I.]

He's just streamlined for speed!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Guess Robin is a "Brilliant" guy... ;)

[@g00167015]

Pierre's Garage .......bald heads are solar panels for sex-machines 🤓 Therefore, us sexy beasts often need to consider glare control 😎😎😎 Thank you Robin, excellent video as always 👍

[@notsofresh8563]

I suppose that belly is the gas tank eh pierre?

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Will and thanks for watching and commenting! As for the other comments below it is probably safer to not reply! ;)

[@toddpeterson7316]

Robin, amazing attention to detail. You get more style points for the artistic glare "control". Thanks as always for letting us learn over your shoulders.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Todd and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@artmckay6704]

Some might think you tend to go overboard on details but I don't feel that way. I believe that the steps you take are quite reasonable and the criticisms that others throw your way are just excuses to cover their own laziness. Of course, doing it right takes more time and effort but, like you say, the extra effort does payoff! I like your approach. It's the right way! :)

[@guywihn1658]

yes sir, very interesting! and as always, much appreciated

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Guy and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@honi9]

Deffinately THE most talented and experienced machinist/engineer that their is without parallel on here. The range of this guys work knows no bounds. the quality of his work shows true professionalism. I don't ever see him stressed or challenged with any given task and I doubt hes editing out any mistakes neither. I would guess he sets a task and carries it out flawlessly. pleasure to watch...

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks honi9 for the VERY kind words. Glad you are enjoying the content and thanks for watching and commenting.

[@r777w]

Another fantastic video. You knowledge and experience are appreciated.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@glmphoto]

Your an amazing guy. As I watch each of your videos I try to see all details ahead of you and I fail every time. Simply amazing. Thanks again for sharing.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks LEAF for the kind words and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@isidoromaich7226]

Great stuff Robin, as always. Thanks for taking your time to sharing your valuable info with us.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Isidoro and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@warcube91]

A great video as always. It is amazing seeing some of the ultra precision machining that you do.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks warcube91 and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@cdbflynow]

Thanks for sharing some of your working tips. Good information and well done video. Paul

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Paul and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@MaturePatriot]

Am in the process of cleaning-refurbising an import lathe I purchased. I plane to include way covers of some sort. This is very helpful. Thanks

[@spartafly3014]

Hi Robin, thank you for the great videos! With your matter of fact way you come across as fountain of knowledge and a really sweet guy! I have a new (old) EMCO Super 11 and a F45 mill and hope to improve their accuracy using your videos! Thanks a lot!

[@BuildSomthingCool]

Great info. I really enjoy seeing how you do things.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Dale and thanks for stopping by and commenting! looking forward to see your new shop! ATB, Robin

[@daviddominessy]

Very informative and carefully executed work! Pleasure watching, Sir!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks David and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@natevanbynen6595]

You sir are the best type of previous owner I would love to buy stuff from :-) thanks for sharing and inspiring us to take care of our machines!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Nate and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@cavemansmancave9025]

Nice haircut. 😊😊 Does a great job on glare. Thanks, John

[@kmcwhq]

I didn't expect anything LESS clever from you Robin! Very nice and effective setup

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks kmcwhq and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@bulletproofpepper2]

I was over thinking guards, you guard video have all or most of the answers. Thanks for sharing.

[@ROBRENZ]

You are welcome, thanks for watching and commenting.

[@reps]

On the topic of guarding ... are you planning to make some more electronics videos? This is cool, but your combination of mechanical and electronic engineering was really special!

[@ROBRENZ]

There may be some but I am just a wannabe when it comes to electronics.

[@artmckay6704]

I have always shuddered at the sight of machine tools that are completely open to swarf raining down upon mating travel surfaces..... so much money, time, and energy spent on magnificently accurate machines only to undo all of that effort by laying bare all of the critical surfaces! Kudos for doing the sensible and the obvious that few do! :)

[@tombellus8986]

Very nice modification, and well deserved on such a fine machine. Thanks for all your videosyou truly are a master of the craft and many other talents.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Tom for the kind words and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@VinceSaluto1]

You give good information Robrenz. Thanks for sharing.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Vince and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@SkylerOlsen]

Excellent as always. Thanks again.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Skyler and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@armdaMan]

Hi Rob Yes. Both Stefan and Tom Lipton lauded Your impressive workmanship and accuracy ideas. Nice on their part. This was not only informative with clearly good examples but inspirational for us. Thanks again for taking time out to show and share Lord Bless aRM

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks again for the very gracious words and thanks for watching.

[@Signmonkey]

Your level of detail is amazing...

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Sign Monkey and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@CalPil0t]

Dale Derry sent me over. Glad he did, nice videos, just starting to work my way through them.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks CalPil0t and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@outsidescrewball]

Great video discussion/instruction

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Chuck and thanks for watching and commenting! ATB, Robin

[@JBFromOZ]

Another well timed (coincidence? ) video Robin, thank you! This is something we must consider on our lathe salvage project

[@ROBRENZ]

Glad to be of service.

[@JBFromOZ]

I was wondering how to get to the oilers underneath these way covers, then I saw some of the recent mods Keith made on his Rutland, could be the solution to keeping it all well lubricated under the hoods as well

[@turningpoint6643]

Connellys book about machine tool reconditioning changed my opinions about the importance of clean and well oiled slides since I read it the first time Robin. The proper bellows type lathe way covers are more than a little expensive for what they are. This is a great solution. And the Bridgeport internal scale mounting is sure something I'm going to be looking into. That solves multiple issues and the extra time and sorting out the mounts would be well worth it. As always another great and informative video.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I have the bellows on my milling machine and I dont like them very much - They get filled up with chips and then the chips get compacted between them and shredd the bellow material.. On my cnc I used leather as a way cover, that worked out quite well, but now I will give the neoprene a shot.

[@douglasclockmaker8779]

Hi Have finally pulled the HLV-H apart , machined the slide as per your machine Have have a stainless steel plate water jet cut and bent Looking forward to installing it Next have make the solid block to mount my tool post

[@ROBRENZ]

Great, your going to love it.

[@gregghooper]

Thanks for the videos, so much to learn thanks for sharing

[@ROBRENZ]

You are welcome gregghooper and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@lapoint7603]

When it comes to men's hairlines, the Lord only made a few perfect heads. The rest he covered with hair! Shine on!

[@Simon28298]

Hi Robin I'm following your lead on this topic. I shop around and talk with my rubber supplier here in Canada and come with a Tyflon fiber glass reinforced .016 think very flexible material. I'll keep you with the result try to make a little video of it maybe! Thanks for the inspiration.

[@ROBRENZ]

Sounds like that could be excellent. That would definitely require the clamp strips since the teflon wont glue without being etched.

[@jagboy69]

HOLY CRAP! That DRO scale is INSIDE the knee? I'd pay money to see that sucker apart and how they did it. Too cool!

[@frankmuller5649]

Priceless! Thank you for sharing...searching for the Neoprene stock already. ;)

[@ROBRENZ]

If you are in the US. Phelps Industrial Products www.phelpsweb.com " ask for 0.030" or 0.020" thick. Last time I bought it was $135.46 for 60" wide x 10' long. You don't have to buy that much.

[@frankmuller5649]

Europe... but thank you for sharing your source... at least I can get the specs from them and maybe even a distributor. Very kind... thank you so much!

[@frankmuller5649]

Germany... but I guess I will check the specs on the Phelps website and try to find something similar over here. Anyway... thank you so much for taking the time to write down the info... awesome and very much appreciated! ;)

[@martinpoggenclaas4789]

Hey @@frankmuller5649 could you find some reseller in Germany?

[@arichardson46]

Excellent video.👌👌

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Alan and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@bobolander]

"glare control"...nice. another great episode - thanks for sharing! also bought that Bridgeport...I'll be makin' chips soon enough!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks bo, you mean makin chips? Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@bobolander]

ROBRENZ yep, late night commenting is apparently i'll-advised...

[@priority2]

Thank You!

[@zomie1]

I am really looking forward to see what you do with the Tormach lathe. Keep up the great videos!

[@ROBRENZ]

Lots of Tormach stuff coming up.

[@zomie1]

ROBRENZ I would be very curious on the choice of tormach as a tool and die maker? It will be interesting to see if they are up to you precision requirements.

[@ROBRENZ]

I considered it a kit and it did need some serious mechanical tweaking. So far I am very impressed with the control and its performance.

[@nameofdane]

Thanks for this! It is really going to be a struggle to avoid just copying directly what you've done to customize this machine once I get going on my Hardinge. It will have to be a day I'm feeling pretty sharp that I'd start milling on the cross-slide 😂

[@travisshrewsbury7169]

sparked some ideas he said,you just changed an entire shop

[@ROBRENZ]

Glad you found something useful Travis. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@Skarberian]

That was interesting! Thanks!

[@ROBRENZ]

You are welcome Dean and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@robert5]

Hay Robin, here is a tip for you on the way covers, you can mount your neoprene sheet on a window shade roller that is spring loaded so it rolls up the excess way cover slack automatically. You can get these any width so I'm sure you could get one 16" and mount it under your chuck and dispense with that bunching up way cover situation. And, I'm sure every one would think it was "WAY COOL" haha. I made one for my front way cover on my Bridgeport. I was having issues with my neoprene one bunching up and ending up out over my crank handle. I bought a cheap auto window shade you can mount on your car window and replaced the shade material with rip-stop nylon as it is oil proof like most nylon is. It works perfect. It was made with a walmart el-cheap-o car window shade though so it will eventually break as it is just all cheap plastic. if it does I'll rebuild it from quality window shade parts and the rip-stop nylon again as I bought a bunch of it on sale. The rip-stop nylon would not work for a lathe front way cover if it gets hot chips on it, but works fine for my Bridgeport front way cover as the chips that land there are usually not super hot. Not a good idea to let it roll up with chips on it, just saying for all you clueless types out there. The rip-stop nylon is super cheap at fabric shops. Almost forgot, could you post your source for the neoprene diaphragm material you use? I'm having a bit o trouble finding that exact type. Thanks

[@ROBRENZ]

The roller shade is on the to do list. Phelps Industrial Products www.phelpsweb.com but they don't always have the thin stuff in stock

[@stephensarkany3577]

I have a good book "fundamentals of dimensional metrology " that discussed abbe error. I don't do enough high class tech reading, but that is the only ref I recall that discussed it (I haven't read the Moore books yet), so thanks for covering that idea.

[@neffk]

Yeah, by Ted Busch. That's a good one.

[@Dans-hobbies]

Excellent video Robin, it gives me some ideas for my own equipment (if i ever get around to ordering a dro). :-)

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks dans-hobbies and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@johns208]

Good stuff. MORE!!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks John, more to come and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@maple5793]

You deserve your Hardinge!

[@stefantrethan]

Now you have to make a video about that interesting feed box you put on the leadscrew. ;-) The problem with your shop is everywhere you point your camera there are about a dozen unique video-worthy items. You don't need glare control, you need blinders for your camera! Tunnel vision!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks stefantrethan, that is the standard HLVH feed box except for the custom inch per minute calibrated graphic. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@andrewaustin6941]

excellent!!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Dru 86 and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@andrewaustin6941]

ROBRENZ you are welcome, and loved the humorous "glare" control!

[@Stephen1455]

Brilliant! If only I could have convinced my last boss!!!!

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Stephen and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@prestonengebretson5043]

Thanks Shotgun!!! I was also about to ask Robert where to find this as I have searched Ebay and other sources for several weeks now...

[@skjoldhjvrkstedsforening4930]

Good advice..! :)

[@Simon28298]

very good video Robin, love what you did on the bridgeport, I'll think about that to mount my scale on my Hardinge TM since space is a big issue here. Any chance you are thinking about filming the stone grinding video soon? You're overall my favorite channel here.Thanks for all.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Simon, stone video is soon. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@rocksolidhugo]

Any type of maintenance work will take twice as long if you're shooting . I hope in ten years time I am as patient and thorough and you are. Thank you

[@wktodd]

Thanks Robin , Interesting to compare how badly protected manual machines are when compared to their cnc counter parts. BTW I certainly don't think your BP scale placement is insane (well not completely - I have to repair these things! ;-)) . Just today I've replaced an Acu-rite scale on the back of a BP table that had taken a knock and cracked the glass (several hundred quid's worth of small knock) And, (in keeping with my usual 'themed' days at work) I'll be replacing another scale on the back of a Hurco sparker which has been killed by it own rubber seal . The rubber had evolved (yes, it is quite old!) in to a sort of wax which, while brittle, was rigid enough to break the glass comb on the reader head ... (you may understand why I'm a big fan of magnetic scales). Thanks again for making your videos , everyone's a gem :-) Bill

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Bill and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@machiningbasics1729]

Yeah nice guarding I have similar guarding on a specific lathe I use for small production runs

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Machining Basics and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@garyrobson6183]

Hi Robin, I thoroughly enjoy your channel and watch your presentations in awe. I recently acquired an old HLV-H which is in relatively good condition. I’d like to fit the scales and protective cover exactly as you have. I was wondering if you may be able to explain and hopefully show exactly what method you used to fit the Z (long travel) scale and head bracket please. Thank you, Gary

[@tinkermouse-scottrussell3738]

Good content Robin, only wish I found it sooner.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Scott and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@billdlv]

Great info again Robin. That is a great way to mount the scales on the Bridgeport I've never seen it done that way. Very clean and no need for the scale guards that take up space. I notice you have what looks like a feed rate dial chart on your power feed? I need to make one of those for the lathe in the shop. Without a DRO I will be using a stopwatch and dial indicator though.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Bill, the IPM label is really handy and save a lot of time. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@moeszyslack4676]

It's quite unfortunate that the possibility of being your apprentice is between slim and none. Great work Robin, your attention to detail and precision is beyond the ordinary.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Moe and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@newtsfarm]

Very good solution to a common problem. I can't find where to get that thin neoprene diaphragm material. Looked in mcmaster carr and the thinnest they show is 1/16 and it's incredibly expensive.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Dale. Phelps Industrial Products www.phelpsweb.com " ask for 0.030" or 0.020" thick. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Robin, Does it mean I can toss my sunglasses now....??? lol Those covers beat installing towels or blankets over the ways, also like your discussion about the placement of the scales in order to get better tracking... Thanks for good advice, Pierre

[@somebodyelse6673]

I'm puzzling out how to put DRO scales in my little Atlas benchtop mill, and looked at getting the scales inside the machine just for protection. I didn't realize there were other benefits at all. More motivation to make less compromises of convenience! I do wonder why the adhesive is necessary on the guard material though. A compression seal with the metal mounting strips is not adequate for resisting a zero pressure fluid? If it's just to guard against corrosion, wouldn't ordinary gasket goop serve the same purpose?

[@ROBRENZ]

The adhesive makes sure the material cant squirm out in the areas between the screws as the neoprene deteriorates with coolant.

[@motorbreath22]

I very much enjoy seeing your attention to detail, I wonder if you have been able to gauge when things are good enough for you, I imagine time is your reminder of when to move on because of deadlines ?

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Hiram, it is never good enough but you have to move on as you say. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@lmsaltest]

Your work is great, so well thought out and with attention to detail! Thanks so much for sharing! You've inspired me to want to make way covers and hopefully add a DRO (so expensive!) to each of them and eventually replace the compound with a solid toolpost mount. One of them is an HLV-H and the other is a Webb/Whacheon gap bed. For the Hardinge, I'm going to follow much of your lead on doing the way covers and I'll save my pennies to get a DRO. The Whacheon is a gap-bed, where the bed is the more common V/flat ribbed cast iron, designed to have chips fall through into the chip pan and seems more challenging to come up with way covers that also still allow chips to fall through. I keep thinking telescoping way covers, but that seems like it would cost a lot. Do you have more details on your DRO scale mounting on the HLV-H?

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks, all that was done with napkin sketches.

[@lmsaltest]

@@ROBRENZ Thanks again! So, now that I’m isolating with a mild case of COVID-19, I am looking at doing some way guarding and at swapping out the compound for a solid toolpost mount. I have an Aloris CXA post I was thinking of using and figure I can get away with the larger size with the height drop removing the compound. I’m looking for some stock to do it with. I’d prefer to use stainless if I can.

[@janstaines5989]

Hi Robin, great video, thanks! May I ask if the placement of the DRO scales reduces the travel of any of the axes at all?

[@ROBRENZ]

They do not.

[@janstaines5989]

@@ROBRENZ thanks!

[@robertengl9152]

another great video. thanks. can you give the particulars on the handwheel for the bridgeport quill?

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks, a place called Ralmikes Toolarama used to carry them but they are no more. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@hdheuejhzbsnnaj]

Robin, I'd love to hear more about this Hardinge lathe and it's features! What makes them "super precision"?

[@JP-kk5vw]

Drew Hamilton Superior build quality. Best materials. Best spindle in the business. USA made. High Cost. Great lathes. Both manual and CNC. I love mine like my children!

[@notsofresh8563]

This is awesome Robin, thanks. As to the neoprene, have you looked into any of the newer silicone coated fabrics? It may be better with the coolant absorption issue than the neoprene. They have all sorts that they use in kitchens now. Made for dishwashers, ovens, microwaves etc. Also, On those corners where you put the brass crimps, I would also cut a little 1" square of the neoprene to fold over the edge and glue down extending out into the fabric some, and under the crimp kinda like the strain relief on a power tool cable, spreading out the stress of bending.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Notso Fresh, Silicone is not significantly different than Neoprene on resistance to coolants but all but impossible to bond to and much less abrasion resistant. The reinforcement is a good idea but from experience the fabric in the material does not give up unless cut. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@rayb2420]

Great Ideas there Rob, thanks! I looked at phelps but only see 1/16" and greater in fabric reinforced. Did you find .030"? Also... I wonder if Buna N (Nitrile) might be a good choice... it's very good with oils. I see, McMaster-Carr sells both Nitrile and Neoprene.

[@ROBRENZ]

You have to call them and ask for what they currently have in the thinner sizes

[@guytech7310]

Where do you purchase that neoprene with the embedded cloth fiber?Thanks for sharing!

[@riaandewinnaar5040]

Prettier and more cost effective than a wig ;)

[@jacka.4774]

First thank you for your video. I am about to install a scale on the my lathe. Differently gone try to follow what you are recommending. I have a question regarding maintenance, I hope you see this and wouldn't mind answering. I have a Hardinge HLVH. I was wondering how to grease the lathe head. mine is getting a little loud the first 10 minutes it is running but then it quiets down.

[@ROBRENZ]

The bearings are permanently lubricated with grease at assembly. There is no way to re-grease without complete disassembly of the spindle. Are you sure it is the spindle bearings and not the collet closer bearing?

[@jacka.4774]

thank you. I will check the collet closer bearing.

[@bcbloc02]

Ever consider adapting a window curtain roller without the latch to keep the slack material taken up and make shedding the chips and oil easier?

[@benrivenbark]

If it were to roll then the bottom of the way cover would contact the messy top when rolled up, wouldn't it?

[@bcbloc02]

You would want it to roll from the top so that chips would go off the end. These machine used what I had in mind. www.mcspt.com/shop/media/HydtelEM.gif

[@ROBRENZ]

Its been on the to do list Brian!

[@jeremytaylor9213]

Robin, throughout various videos you briefly mention your use of uncommon materials or methods or custom tooling. Two examples are; mixing white graphite with cool tool 2 for tapping, and the precision stone you ground for lapping across your surface grinder magnet. Any chance you could go into more information on things like that on a video to share your "tips & trade secrets"?

[@ROBRENZ]

All will be seen eventually

[@apfyts]

The Moore Jig Borer quill hand wheel is a nice improvement to the Bridgeport.

[@ROBRENZ]

A place called Ralmikes Toolarama used to carry them but they are no more. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@johnstewart3519]

Hello Rob, I have been watching and enjoying your videos for some time and have a request for you. You have a video that describes putting an elastic impregnated fabric covers on your Harding’s lathe. Can you tell me which company/supplier you got your material? I would like to use this method on my mill. Thanks for the help and the videos.

[@ROBRENZ]

McMaster # 8698K31 or 8599K11

[@joeldriver381]

Wondered if that was the stuff... Should have searched the comments sooner! ;)

[@tesladrummer]

"Shop Notes"* "• Quick look at guards on the Tormach lathe: www.tormach.com/15l-slant-pro-lathe/ • "Spend the time to make the machine right from the beginning and it will pay you back..." • I couldn't find a link for the exact material mentioned. McMaster Carr has some thicker conveyer material (.06""): www.mcmaster.com/5751k301 and Neoprene, BunaN/Nitrile, and Viton in similar thicknesses: www.mcmaster.com/#gaskets/=f5cff62fcdf84ee88a03a945a9815924jspnmo3e Can be found, but not in convenient online shops. • Stainless (16ga) used for the flanges • Permatex Gasket Maker Sealants Ultra Black: (Amazon): www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U Ultra Grey: (Amazon): www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K • Brief discussion on linear scale DRO mounting locations from Abby errors • Linear scale locations on the Bridgeport • Loctite 380 (BlackMax): KBC Tool: www.kbctools.com/products/FLUIDS/ADHESIVES/ADHESIVES%20@@26%20EPOXY/4098.aspx McMasterCarr: www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-380/=19rh7aq Amazon (tube 0.1 oz): www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Instant-Black-Loctite-Corporation/dp/B000132VKI/ (bottle 1.0 oz): www.amazon.com/Loctite-135423-Toughened-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B000132VEE/ Loctite website: na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797890609153&msdsLanguage=EN_US&selectedTab=technical • Flap Wheels,not sure what grit/dia. McMaster: www.mcmaster.com/#sanding-abrasives/=14ef7a8fc5014dc1b026556d4b8bababjspnznpy KBC: www.kbctools.com/CatSearch/672/mounted-flap-wheel • Flex-shaft rotary grinder 22K RPM*: Not a Dremel, not a Foredom, not a DuMore(money), It's an inexpensive import from a company you've never heard of: SE. American Science & Surplus (all around cool company, different handpiece): www.sciplus.com/p/VARIABLE-SPEED-FLEX-SHAFT-GRINDER_43486 Amazon (different handpiece): www.amazon.com/SE-979FSG-Flexible-Grinder-Switch/dp/B000NW4YRK/ *Note that the similar looking tool sold by Harbor Freight only goes to 15K, which is ~68% of the SE. • Apply the 380 to the steel not the rubber. • Brass crimps for corners and high-flex edges" *Not affiliated with any manufacturer or retailer.

[@bgpnu]

Thx for the notes, very useful. Neoprene is not oil/coolant resistant, nor is it particularly heat or abrasion resistant. Ideal material for this application is Viton or Fluorosilicone but they are generally more expensive. Silicone would be my next choice as it has higher temp and higher abrasion resistance and more importantly is resistant to oils and petroleum products in coolants. Even Buna-N would be better than Neoprene in terms of chemical and abrasion resistance and is about the same price.

[@Simon28298]

great video again Robin, can I ask you why are you using metric screw for most of your projects?

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks, I have a very large selection of metric screws for customer work.

[@Azathoth43]

Is the bed of that lathe one giant dovetail? Neat

[@ROBRENZ]

Correct, hardened and ground tool steel to boot!

[@shotgunreloader4964]

Rob, I have looked over most of the videos (in which I thought you mentioned) twice now trying to find the two sided tape that you showed that was just the adhesive without the thick foam core. I cant find it can I trouble you for the part number? thanks in advance.

[@ROBRENZ]

3M #467 transfer tape

[@shotgunreloader4964]

Thank you very much.

[@jessemendes9491]

Ótimo !

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Jesse and thanks for watching and commenting!

[@EZ_shop]

Nice video. Where can one get the neoprene material you use?

[@AD4MRick]

Great video. Did you choose the Black Max because of the Oil resistence over the grey or was there other considerations? As far as you glare problem. I never even noticed. I think that kind of thing is thought about by the individual more than anyone else. Please keep up the wonderful content. R

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks AD4MRick, the black max is the adhesive I used. The Ultra black or grey is the silicone based sealant I used. No difference between the black or grey sealant other than color. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@brrnot]

Have you considered putting a book out? Maybe a series.

[@ROBRENZ]

No but I plan on doing a ton of videos!

[@dlstanf2]

Neophyte question; do you keep a log of ABBA errors? And, do you use those for error correction in averaging? Really enjoy your amazing level of detail.

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks dlstanf2, I do not log Abbe errors, it is just important to design to minimize the possibility of Abbe errors. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@moms762]

You may have a taper attachment for your Hardinge I don’t know, but I was wondering how you would cut a taper without the compound and if you don’t have a taper attachment? Thanks

[@ROBRENZ]

Yes I often use a wide plunge tool set at the angle needed.

[@moms762]

That works too. Thanks for the reply.

[@douglasclockmaker8779]

Hi I have a Hardinge HLV -H , the model that had the steel wear strips on the cross slide The original owner used water based coolant instead of the correct oil coolant I discovered this after purchasing the lathe that the water causes the strips to lift and hence jamming of the slide I have reconditioned the lathe , slide way grinding etc etc I am using an oil coolant but absolutely hate it. Oil every were , not pleasant when doing a lot so machining Would you know by any chance if modern water based coolants can be used on this version of the lathe There are very few of these lathes inAustralia and hence difficult to get any ideas Thanks douglas Ps I love what you have done , have copied it what not done as well that’s a project down the track

[@ROBRENZ]

With my guarding almost no coolant gets on the way surfaces. I use Houghton 795-MP semi-synthetic coolant that has a very high mineral oil content. It leaves a nice thin oil film and is bio stable. I have never had to change out coolant in 10 years of use. But I do use distilled water in my coolant. Like all synthetics it is also a good paint remover ;-(

[@dennisa6132]

@@ROBRENZ Do you do anything to clean the coolant or keep it fresh?

[@benalexander7388]

Where do you source your sheeting from? I can't figure out if the stuff on mcmaster has the reinforcing or not.

[@gbowne1]

Robin, what would you recommend for the DSM or DV?

[@ROBRENZ]

Different animal as there is no motion on the bed itself.

[@gbowne1]

@@ROBRENZ yes, thats true I was just having a thought about gaurding the 59 that I have. I also bought the speed lathe, essentially a very short Hardinge.

[@bertr5650]

I love how your mind thinks Robyn. How does you son cope working with you and your level of detail? Does he appreciate it or is it lost with the newer generations?

[@ROBRENZ]

Thanks Bert, he does very well and is getting more skilled every day. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@EdgePrecision]

Do you know if they make that material in a silicone rubber? I don't know if the Black Magic would bond to the silicone but the coolant won't attack it. Also the silicone usually is that ugly orange color.

[@ROBRENZ]

There would be no advantages to silicone that I am aware of and would definitely be less abrasion resistant.

[@EdgePrecision]

ROBRENZ , I asked the question not to imply that it would be better than what you are using for your application. I have a different use in mind. Perhaps I didn't word my question correctly. I have used both neoprene and silicone rubber sheet but without the reinforcing and a bit thicker. You are correct the appears to have less abrasion resistance than the neoprene before exposed to the coolant. But the neoprene gets soft and tears after it absorbs the coolant. The silicone doesn't have this problem and can withstand high temperature shavings landing on it. I just wondered if you were aware if the silicone was available with the fabric reinforcing.

[@Trent-tr2nx]

With respect to your surface preparation at 15:15, what do you think about Dan Gelbart’s favored surface prep of using Ajax to clean surfaces before finishing (covered in his powder coating video I believe)?