Please post more !

I never cared for the moore pattern scraping. I think it addresses problems that are best handled otherwise. Form(flatness usually)is usually the paramount goal and moore scraping does achieve that but at a cost. Bearing texture is also required in may sliding parts and again Moore scraping achieves that after a fashion but again, at a cost. Whitworth's scraping method achieves flatness as well or better and is faster. The Whitworth method can also achieve a good bearing surface if desired. We are 200 years past Whitworth's work and still have not evolved the process , in fact it has devolved into a search for "points". Whitworth was not trying to get "points" he was trying to get as flat as possible, points were just a by product of his method but they happened to provide a great bearing surface at the same time. The ideal surface for a bearing is to be dead flat, dead smooth and scientifically textured for lubrication and debris removal. We are not doing a good job of that with current scraping methods.

Re-watching I am getting more and more ideas. I don't really need a set-tru chuck but stiffening the system with two bolt patterns is a game changer IMO. In fact a thing I have been irritated by is the fact that on the chucks I currently use, chips get caught in the annular space between the backing plate and the chuck. It gets worse because the type I have has a keyway. I was thinking about somehow filling up the space with a sealant or something but that would be so permanent it would be a huge hassle when the chuck would need disassembly. Right now I am always taking the chuck off the backing plate when swapping them. Now, I think there is a great opportunity to kill two birds with one stone. First, make a thicker chuck end/ stiffener plate that lines up with the outer mounting surface of the chuck, so there is no shoulder anymore. Then, post-machine the two in assembled condition and add bolt holes as required (for front mounting if that is not already the case). Then, machine the backing plate adding the threaded holes and get rid of the stepped shoulder. Next, mount the to together and indicate on the lathe to run dead center. Take the assembly to the drill and add to conical dowel pin holes. Add dowel pins for future alignment. For disassembly, dowel pins with internal threads may be used for a slide hammer or threaded holes may be added for pressing the pieces apart with screws. When all is done bore the (hard) jaws as is now well known. Notes: - The chuck end/ stiffener plate does not need to be an interference fit per se when the set-tru feature is not added, however I feel that it will only add to the stiffness. The plate may also be fitted with screw holes for push-off disassembly. - Making the end face of the chuck flat will make it very easy. After all making two parts with the same axial dimension on two shoulders is over-constrained by definition, with the set-tru feature it is necessary but pretty advanced skills and equipment are required to do it right.

Dear Sir Robrenz, I am Abay from Ethiopia. First of all, I thank you in advance for taking your precious time to consider my request. Could you please assist me in order to rectify 'ZANROSSO 1500Y Cylinder Block and Head Resurfacer Machine, which is giving a hyperbola surface finish. Deviation ranging 0.15/.1 mm. I couldn't even find the manual. Previously, four times other Technicians have tried to solve the problem but nothing pays off yet. Now it's my responsibility to bring the machine to life and before I attempt to start working on the Resurfacer , I humbly seek assistance. Thank you so much. I am also addressing this to anyone who come across to this comment of mine.

is it possible to generate pulse with the help of this one in pA (cuurent as source)

Hey Robin! @ 49:53 you spoke of the twisting and flex forces on your stick-out piece. We-all have this problem. Where are your HD extended jaws for the Kurt vice? Half-ass Ross uses his often in his 2 car machine garage.

2nd time I've watched this. I always learn something new with you. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge!

just watching this as i bought a u3 version yesterday for 500euros with all the accessory's and a full 5c collet set from 1.5,2,3,up to 30mm as it was the last one and they now only have the u5 which is as far as i could see the same machine.but cost 899.

What type of hardened linear shafting did you replace the original one with? Did you get it from McMaster also?

The quality of parts/work that gets cranked out on this channel is top fkn class!! Gives us a real insight into how engineering actually practically playes out when high tolerances are required! Even tho i have done some highly accurate work myself ik constantly suprised and learning new things with ROBRENZ!! LOVE IT!!

I have a 1/2" CBN wheel I wonder if it will work?

Incredible again Robin. Thank you👍👌🇦🇺

Love the math at the end.

Should doing this cause rust to develop faster? Lathe is 6 months old and I keep getting surface rust showing up. After using coolant I will blow all the ground surfaces down and then wipe clean off using wd40. A day later with no use I will notice rust that stains into the surface

Sir, As an engineer, I can say that you are a spindle expert, just one of the various types!

HA - a couple of minutes in and you said, correctly, 'orienting' not the far more usual incorrect, and very irritating 'orientating'. Well done you!

1:02:35 hands down, best part of the video! Great job man!

absolutely brilliant!

6 jaw chucks inherently have more deflection due to the fact there is less material between jaws. This is why they are inherently more fragile than an 3 jaw. 6 jaw chuck also have the problem of the jaws not making contact with round work, unless the round to be held is ground absolutely round only a few of the 6 jaws will make contact with the round. Overall grip force is distributed over 6 jaws which is lower overall compared to a 3 jaw chuck or more so with a 4 jaw chuck. 6 jaw chucks work best on tubing that can slightly deform to conform to the gripping forces from the 6 jaws. 3 jaw chucks are inherently self compensating for slight out of round work and why 3 jaw chucks have more holding power than a 6 jaw on round bar with less chatter far fewer issues with holding round bar/work than any 6 jaw chuck. 3 jaw chuck are inherently more rigid due to the larger amount of material between jaws, this also make them far more abuse tolerant than any 6 jaw chuck. 4 jaw chucks have the highest holding power with the ability to hold non-road shapes and ability to be adjusted to very small amounts of runout. Grinding chuck jaws can be a good thing, limits are the reground or recut jaws are only truly round at the diameter they are cut or ground at. This means the rounds to be held that are not very close or identical to the cut or ground diameter will not seat properly into the radii cut or ground into the chuck jaws. Better results can be had by using a collet. Once the first cut has been made chuck runout will be essentially negated, or why small amounts of chuck runout is not relevant unless the precision part must be re-chucked for further work to be done. In specific cases like this a 4 jaw chuck is the chuck of choice for many reasons. Or making a set of soft jaws specific to the size of the round to be held as exampled in this HAAS video.. This is extremely common practice in modern cnc or similar lathe work. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipLJqWqkhL-faZo

Interesting fact is that a chuck will effectively always lift the part a bit clear from the stop(s). It's repeatable to a high degree so it does not have to be an issue but it's good to know if you have a part with tight axial tolerances

Do you have an idea of the radius of the large roughing blade?

my lapped stones: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYGaaIVug513r8Usi=fj3FlDLOVF8dYX_1

Hi Robin, excellent material, thank you! I have a home hobby shop and I need to replace the spindle bearings on my HLV-H, would like your advice. I'm thinking to use sealed bearings (correct grease, correct amount of grease, protected from dirt especially for the rear bearing) but would they run too hot? How much preload would you recommend for this application? It looks like location of the spindle cartridge is by the front flange and the taper pin, is that correct? So remove the taper pin and pulley/spindle nut and the cartridge comes out the front? Thanks for any help you can offer.

Robin. Thanks for your patient kind and considerate manner. You're an educator and a great mind. Cheers Ken

Great job man

Robrenz is a legend!

How do you know if you've turned the plate by 90°, without any other measuring instruments?

This may be the most influential machining video on YT. Who'd even heard of the stones before this? Yes, I was using honing stones for various applications, but this is whole different deal. The vid came up in my feed; hard not to watch again. Now I own 3 pairs of diamond ground stones in various configurations. So remarkably useful. Just yesterday, got some inexpensive 1-2-3 blocks in the mail. One didn't indicate within spec. Ran the side of the block lightly on a stone and what do you know, meets spec.

49:10 No Si3N4 balls?

nobody is showing how to actually use this meter. everyone is showing it taking readings in auto mode. I want to use it manually because i have some components that test fine of my other meters but this one in auto mode seems to hunt all over and cant figure out what is connected to it. I cant figure out how to use the manual mode because when i try i get ambiguous incorrect readings that dont agree with any of my other meters.

Thankas a million. Where have you been all my life!

name this mashine and model?

I worked at a place that our product lived and died by microns. Literally we had tolerances at a +5 -0 microns on our highest precision part. I was tasked with making new stuff and working out processes. I so wish I had this information available to me back in 2000. Here is what we need, make a million of them, and BTW also make the machine and the process as this has never been done. Vibration and run out were my biggest challenges.

Those are some very interesting mods. You are very meticulious and put alot of thought into your work. I have used a Deckel grinder for many, many years and would have a lot of trouble adapting the shaft stop being moved from the left position over to the right side. Many things that I would grind, I had to use two hands and adjust the stop on the fly while grinding. So in order for your system to work for me, I would now be moving the tool in and out or rotating it with my left hand rather than my right. This would not be ok with my brain lol. I hope it works for you. Thanks for the video. You explain yourself very well. It was a pleasure to listen. No disrespect to all you guys buying these clone grinders but if you used the Actual "Deckel" brand grinders all your years in the trade, then try one of the clones you would likely be very dissatisfied with the feel and function of the clone. I just bought a used Dekel brand grinder very cheap from a local shop who was closing. The tool holder to the main shaft was siezed up and took some work to free up, then I took it all apart, cleaned it and reasembled it. Nothing needed modifying or replacing and now it works perfectly. The Deckel brand grinder is a very high quality grinder that will last a lifetime with som simple maintenance.

Shouldnt you also protect from head and body hair during assembly? Or, is hair soft enough to not be a problem?

Watching this for at least the third time. Received a TMX six jaw chuck for our Hardinge lathes at work yesterday and was disappointed to find that it is just about as much a chuck 'kit' as the Shars chuck, but at multiples of the price. The quality of the deburring especially is shockingly poor - raised edges around pretty much every hole, very uneven chamfers on holes, not to mention dents in the back plate face that bears on the chuck body from where somebody tightened the two together with chips stuck in between. The upside is that I had a great excuse to tear it down, and since I have to modify an adapter plate for it anyway I might as well give it a bit of the Robrenz treatment while I'm at it. If only I had that beautiful rotary grinding setup or a dozen or so fewer open projects so I could think about making one.

are you ok robrenz? been quiet for so long

What would be handy is the names of the tools you use in particular the level tools etc.

Very very good thank you

I tried acetone to liquefy my shoe-goo/goop because it seemed obvious to me but it didn't work. Now I know the secret solvent, many thanks mister !

Fantastic

This was very helpful. Thank you so much for the information you have shared. I'm scraping in a shop-built Gingery metal shaper.

great work!, actually im thinking of making one the same, to complement my H&W angle dekkor , can you please share the design?

Love the chuck..... I would like to know how many hours you have in it

Why do some chucks only have one pinion gears and others have three ? And which one is better? The ones with only one pinion seem to have the adjust thru.

@robrenz do you use norton brand name stones or prefer some cheaper version?

Hi Rob, thanks so much for taking the time and effort to produce & upload these videos - pure gold.

I apparently need help. 😅 Found this totally fascinating!

We are waiting for part 3 :)

after about a month of using them after eeeing this video, I'm seeing a general improvement in the parts that come off the mill! mating the vise to the table, the jaws to the vise, etc... small things adding up to a big improvement! Thanks for this!