Cutting an uprooted tree - Jonsered 2045

The tree fell during a stormy night. The pine-tree was 0.6m in diameter, about 30m long and 60 years old.
Towards the end you can see the decay that started in the center of the tree. So it's time had come anyway.

[@lisawaters2585]

Thanx for this. Very clear, concise and helpful. 3 pine trees came down on the fence and house during hurricane Ian. We've got to get them taken care of.

[@McmWolfDavid]

I was in Florida a month ago doing tree work for hurricane Ian

[@tooge47]

simple, easy cut. Now, tree that size or bigger, except TOP of tree is way up in the air, hung on OTHER tree. In addition to the root ball wanting to sit down, you have the added feature of the trunk wanting to come down.

[@Raimoti]

Wow Amazing hard work

[@ivanmiljkovic862]

This is much better than 2036 turbo. 💪

[@henryalvares7672]

Good job

[@nathanduckeorth806]

Very skilled

[@cbb4817]

Your hired when can you get here

[@scottwebber652]

I got one too to do sure hope it goes slick like urs did

[@MartyInTheWoods]

Good luck!

[@Gasteraner]

gut gemacht ! vg und pass auf dich auf

[@MartyInTheWoods]

Danke und mach ich. Bin halt nur Hobby-Holzer ;-)

[@MrWhoevr]

I’m surprised didn’t he start off with an undercut.

[@andycapp8843]

He was no doubt waiting for your video to show him how it should be done.

[@MrWhoevr]

@@andycapp8843 Don’t need a video. The tree was supported on both ends by the ground. So a top cut would pinch and an undercut wouldn’t. So I’d try to clear a spot under the tree for the blade. Then cut up about a third. Then from the same position then reach forward and put the spikes in about 3/4 the with of the tree. Then start cutting pivoting the saw blade downward until it’s straight up and down. Then do the top cut to finish. I do use a longer blade than that guy but he’s got an excellent saw.

[@andycapp8843]

@@MrWhoevr Your explanation has credibility admitted, that said, theory can also be applied to a straight forward cut from the top, once the bar has travelled a sufficient distance to permit the use of wedges, this would prevent pinching also. Both methods at this juncture are theory, nothing more and real life scenarios apply the use of on the job judgements to get the job done as quickly and safely as is practically possible. Far better to watch a video where theory is put into practice where you actually see the work in progress and the availability to witness log movement etc. Length of saw blade is a personal preference of course and again dependant on the numerous and variety of tasks ahead. I am frequently mocked mercilessly when I take out from the truck my four year old Hyundai chainsaw, leaving the Stihl saws behind. For me the balance is perfect when cutting on the ground. Absolutely faultless, worked it to death and not done anything to it at all. I have three now with different bar lengths but generally stick with 20” I’m amazed sometimes as to why the fence hasn’t collapsed with the multitude of folk sitting on the top rail unnecessarily criticising others. This guy had planned the job well and it was done relatively swiftly, without harm to himself, others and the surrounding habitat. Yours is a valid point, an undercut may have prevented pinching but in this situation it wasn’t necessary. Give the guy credit, he constantly had his eye on the ball (or log in this case) and it went well. I’m sure he learned a great deal from the experience and no doubt even more from the comments that followed.

[@MrWhoevr]

@@andycapp8843 I didn’t say he did a bad job and I think the 2045 has a 16” blade. Most people learn how to fall trees from others. It’s not the best way. There is industrial fallers course on KZbin. I think it’s 17 parts. It’s called the BC Fallers Standard course. I would recommend it to anyone who uses a chainsaw. Check it out. You will not be disappointed. By the way I’d watch it for the entertainment value even if I didn’t have a saw. It’s that good. 👍

[@09rja]

Me too. This really isn't the way to do it. For the first cuts, you'd notch it on the top (maybe a third of the way through) and start to finish it on the bottom.......but at some point the script will get switched (i.e. the top side will open up and the bottom will become the pinch side as it starts to go back in the hole). It's hard to know when that will happen....so I use some wedges to help the saw from getting pinched. Always have a standby saw/bar for this kind of work.....'cause it's hard to be right. The switch will vary from tree to tree.