Cutting Boards : 5 things you didn't know

Making a wooden cutting board? Before you get caught up in cutting board designs, let Andrew show you 5 things you didn't know about making cutting boards that will last and be food safe. Follow along to the next video to learn about a perfect food safe finish for your cutting board. • Cutting Board Finish
Visit anamericanartisan.com to view Andrew Teixeira's portfolio.
Products used:
Titebond 3, Titebond III, General Finishes Butcher Block Oil, Mineral Oil, Beeswax, Carnauba Wax,

[@trollnapf1670]

Besides the food safe glue mix up, I appreciate the more in depth explanation about wood type, grain, etc. which the last half a dozen videos I watched do not touch on.

[@MrHighflyingclive]

This is probably the most useful and informative cutting board video on KZbin! Thank you!

[@arandajr]

This is one of my favorite videos on this subject, thank you and keep up the good work.

[@timconnell4570]

Short. Sharpe. Intelligent. Great tips. This is a rare vid. Thnx

[@g.fortin3228]

thank you for sharing this good knowledge.. some things I did not know there .. and will be paying attention to in the future to make the end results easier to acheive !!

[@timothyball3144]

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with those that don't know and do know. The only negative comment I have is that you talk faster than I can absorb. But that's what replay is for. Not being a woodworker, I'm still trying to wrap my head around the jointing/planning/ripping. Edit: OK, fourth time through and I think I got it. Joint one side and the top. This gets them smooth and square to each other. Joint the other side to get it smooth, parallel to the other side and to thickness. Rip the other side to get it to thickness. Hope that's right.

[@thomaslotito380]

Good precise video. No time wasted. Thank you for the tips.

[@captainkittles]

There was actually some really good information in that video. Thanks!

[@KOTEC525]

thanks for the tips...didn't know that about the grains and the cupping

[@thesilly11]

Thank you for the spring joint part. Was wondering how to deal with my tiny bit of bowing in the board!

[@richleavitt73]

Very helpful tip about the spring joint, thank you!

[@AotearoaChef]

Would have been good if he explained what that actually means though, Been trying to find the right channel, unfortunately, I don't have a joiner, planer table saw etc so I'll keep looking. He certainly presents well though!

[@devriescustomleather1109]

Good job young man! Made a maple , black walnut 38 years ago for my wife, when it gets rough I just plane it, clean with salt and lemon or lime with hot water. No finish as it never stays long if you use daily as we do. Not sure what glue I used but that is good to think about.

[@howardsmith5474]

Just found your channel, you do a great job editing and have a well put together video. I see the KZbinrs have drank their haterade as they tactlessly and mercilessly point out every potential error. Don’t let it bug you, keep up the good work.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Howard, Thank you so much. I Actually like responding to the comments, even when they are a bit aggressive. It keeps me honest. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. Thanks for making my day. -Andrew

[@IsaKocoglu]

Thank you for your helpful tips

[@philliphill4763]

Great presentation!!!

[@infamouspbd]

Thats the kind of video I like to learn from,, thank you

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Sam, Thanks so much! It was a fun video to make. Cutting boards are fun and useful. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com . There are some free downloads there too! Thanks for watching. Subscribe for more. -Andrew

[@ladykenja2700]

- Thanx for the info. VERY helpful.

[@wakelywanderer12]

Lots of good information here. Thank you. Just subscribed.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Wakely Wanderer, So glad you liked the video. Thanks for subscribing. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. -Andrew

[@thegrimjeeper3427]

Good job very detailed

[@blackhorse2947]

Great video and information……… Thank you

[@abstractbybrian]

Thank you so much for this: It's nice to see this all in one spot instead of trying to chase this everywhere all over the internet. I'm just beginning and I've got an extra challenge - I'll be doing all this by hand. I'm starting to have my doubts. I'm probably better off getting a decent jig saw and set up a guide so I can rip boards then hand plane them smooth for glue up.

[@johnwisniewski8712]

Great information and a great video!

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi John, Thanks so much. Good luck with your cutting board! -Andrew

[@gracenjuguna7292]

Amazing info!

[@TheTravelVlogger]

Awesome tips! all the other cutting board videos only discuss design and efficiency.

[@BronkBuilt]

Great tips, thanks for sharing.

[@caseylattimer2223]

TB II is absolutely food safe

[@joshtardiff3402]

Casey Lattimer that’s what I use. And I have also use red and white oak

[@ericmesser1]

Good video......thanks for the tips......👍🇦🇺

[@NewYorkMetalDetecting]

Great video with great information. Thank you for sharing. New subscriber here.

[@BrianThorstad]

Good info, subscribed.

[@andrewcostilla8014]

Hi, I just started wood making so I have the basic power tools. If I don’t have a board planer what other substitute can I use?

[@MondoRockable]

Are the spring joints really a necessity these days with glues that result in a joint stronger than the actual material? I see lots of videos with people joining boards and none even discuss spring joints. Are the woods being used expanding and contracting significantly enough that delamination results?

[@mattg6262]

Nice pace of the video. This is the first video that actually helped the definition of a spring joint click in my mind.

[@campmodewithrussell]

Great info, thanks

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi J and R Thanks for watching and commenting. You can find more info and free downloads on my website anamericanartisan.com -Andrew

[@yobudge]

Great video. Glueing a 1/4 inch board on the end grain will add to the durrablility as it prevents the endgrain from soaking and drying the board. Fun added detail Perpendicular grain is "vertical grain" Parallel grain is "flat grain" Diagonal or changing grain is "mixed grain"

[@emostorm7]

Neat thanks!

[@pukicat]

Hi there Sean , not really a good idea to glue a 1/4 inch board (stick) on the end grain. Bear in mind that end grain timber will move at a different rate. What one can do is to dove tail or slot ( tongue & groove ) the end grain and match the stick to it , slide it through and put a thin dowel rigth in the middle of the stick in to the end grain thus allowing for the board timber to move freely and still be fastened to the end grain. One can do it on larger stuff as well. Cheers mate!

[@Atoyota25]

Great video! Thank you for taking the time to make it. The tip about the cupping will help me out in future projects! I may have missed it but, what is(are) the reason(s) for having the end grain perpendicular or diagonal to the surface? I glue woods together like this in my projects but, they are not for use with foods. So, I'm curious if the grain direction has to do with getting a proper food safe seal or if it has to do with stability of the glue joint.

[@shaneknerr4014]

The direction of the grain has to do With whether or not it will cup,twist , bow whatever. They way he ran his grain will pretty much eliminate that from happening.

[@carlossmith6474]

Can i use tite bond 2 thats all i have for cutting board

[@R_an_D]

I accepted the challenge and made a cutting board out of some white oak scraps. (Quercus Albus). Porosity on all edges ((and ends)) is not an issue. The stuff is as hard and dense as bamboo! I used Gorilla polyurethane glue with success but it makes more mess than Titebond II, my normal glue. I agree that red oak would be a poor choice. You can clearly see it's open grain. If you can get your hands on white oak, it will make the longest lasting board.

[@TeamProsperity]

Ok cool with the cup but what if your strips doesn’t have any cupping?

[@g.fortin3228]

TB2 is ok for food, just not waterproof ;-) I use 3 for that reason, but no danger with 2.

[@deborahcinfio5729]

Do you think that resin is a safe finish for cutting boards?

[@EMWoodworking]

If you’re ripping your material into strips you can use the face grain side. You’re not using a full peace of 1x12 as the entire surface. If you flip every other strip you eliminate cupping. ie grain up grain down ...

[@hankjeffries2596]

Your selecion of wood to make a board no mention of koa wood??

[@wayneholmes4207]

Why not end grain up as another option?

[@billlarson]

A lo of Carnuba Wax available, what is your preference?

[@joshl90]

All three titebond products are actually food safe. Most glues and finishes when fully cured are food safe

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Josh, Thanks. Maybe it's just how it is marketed but Titebond III was the only one that said it explicitly. Thanks for your input! -Andrew

[@tn8141]

Didn't know making a cutting board was so scientific

[@anamericanartisan9846]

+T N Crazy, right? I hope these few tips will help people make cutting boards that last. Really, they are some fundamental principles that I have used for years. You can check out my portfolio at anamericanartisan.com I used the same glue up principle in every one of those projects. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Andrew

[@musicbymark]

Almost every wood finish is also food safe once cured acc. to Michael Dresdner, national finishing expert/author. As pointed out, Titebond 3 will resist water the best though, and Titebond orig. least. Not sure how much a problem it would be if you never soak your board or pour boiling water on it, but for that much labor, I think I'll go w/ Titebond 3 in the future.

[@Kameron-The-Crafter]

@@musicbymark wrong because a lot of fisishes are actualy extremely toxic.

[@phil150266]

your wax mixture was bang on ....loved it . I already use beeswax mineral oil but why dont you make end grain boards???

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Phil, I am so glad you like the wax mixture! I haven't done anything end grain video yet. There are so many good ones that I want to make sure mine makes a valuable contribution to the subject. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too! -Andrew

[@ErikRocha_cnvr]

With out a planer, how can I achieve a true flat surface?

[@garriv777]

I'm curious as to why you say not to use white oak? Red oak is very porous but I've always been told that white oak is closed grained ( which is why it's used for outdoor applications ). Seems like white oak would be a fine choice actually, dunno now though.

[@rcairflr]

Where is the best place to buy Purpleheart wood from?

[@cudazi]

Great tips! Is there a name for the technique of cutting cheaper flat/plain sawn lumber into nicer rift or quarter sawn boards? Just wondering if there are do's and don'ts to this, but it's hard to search without knowing what it's called.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Curt, Great question! This process is much like making a long grain Butcher Block top or a traditional bench top. You may find more info searching with those keywords. The reason for aligning the grain this way isthe seasonal expansion of the wood . On average, you can expect wood to expand and contract with changes in heat and humidity 1/16th of an inch for every foot of width on a plain saw peice. By ripping plainsawn lumber into more narrow peices and turning them on edge we are directing the expansion along the thickness of the glued up cutting board. This will make the cutting board more dimensionally stable and less likely to warp. You will notice that both sides of my cutting board from home have knife marks in them (check out the cutting board finish video if you haven't already) that's because it has stayed so flat since I made it a year ago that it doesn't tip or rock on either side. Thanks for watching. You can always contact we with questions through my website, anamericanartisan.com -Andrew

[@kle2217]

Does oil content in wood matter?

[@mikehoncho6109]

Some good information. A little confusing at times. You were confusing on thickness and width tho.

[@cgpimp1]

Should I not use white oak

[@davidmoore220]

Great video, Do you every worry about moisture content before you start cutting, & making these boards? Thanks

[@shaneknerr4014]

There is no need to worry about that. If your concerned then dry your wood out more once you buy it.

[@jeremiahsingularo7340]

i like german solution: 50 shadows of ash/oak oiled by cooked walnut oil.. our cat loved it so much that we made her own cutting board where she enjoys to sleep and to lick on..

[@pencraftsmanship]

I don't have a thickness planer so would a electric hand planer also work?

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Bobby, Yes , you could do that. Just count your cuts to keep the thickness even. you will want to secure the board to your table to keep it from sliding. regular clamps would get in the way. clamp it between bench dogs if you have a traditional Workbench or sandwich it between to sacrificial boards that are screwed down to your work table. Good luck on your project. subscribe for more. Check out my portfolio and free downloads on my website anamericanartisan.com -Andrew

[@ry58cha29]

Great video. Good lighting, picture, and sound quality. Lovely gentle background music as well. Very informative content in many details. I'm your new subscriber.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Barnabas, Thanks for the compliments and thanks for subscribing! Have fun making cutting boards. You can check out a portfolio of my work on my website, anamericanartisan.com . You can also get some free downloads there and contact me with questions. Thanks, -Andrew

[@xxumadbroxxxxgaming5457]

Where do I buy the wood for cutting boards? All these lumber yards I go to only have typical treated/untreated pine.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi, Odds are that there is a local hardwood supplier near you. Some lumberyards only deal in softwoods. Search for retail hardwood lumber near your location to find local sources. The retail part is important. Many lumberyards only sell to the trades and require a tax ID to purchase wood. If that doesn't work you uh can get good stock from woodcraft but the price is higher. Here's a ljnk: www.woodcraft.com/search?q=Wood&button=search Thanks for watching and commenting. You can find a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There ar ed sone free downloads there too. -Andrew

[@lukethompson5227]

Did you wipe down the purpleheart with thinners or acetone to remove any surface oils before gluing up, a step that's pretty important when using exotic hardwoods?

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Luke, I did not. I haven't had that problem with purple heart. However, I have had that issue when glueing some Ipe for an exterior table. I am glad you brought it up. People reading through the comments will be well served by your tip. Thanks for watching and commenting. you can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. -Andrew

[@LeCharles07]

@@anamericanartisan9846 Pin Luke's comment, it's a good point.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

+LeCharles07 , Thanks. Will do. -Andrew

[@shaneknerr4014]

That's why I commented that you should use a resoursenal two part glue for cutting boards ESP. WHEN USING EXOTIC WOODS. BUT WHAT DO I KNOW I ONLY HAVE 30 PLUS YEARS EXP.

[@jarodmorris611]

@@shaneknerr4014 It's possible for people to do something wrong for 30 years. I've met contractors who have been in business decades but didn't keep up with code changes and new guys who knew it inside and out. Experience is good but does not guarantee competence.

[@freddieslaughter1107]

How about ash and hickory?

[@gideonrettich7754]

TB II is food safe. TB III is not "waterproof". It's water resistant. You can't soak a board and expect it to stay together.

[@emostorm7]

Absolutely true

[@supernat1978]

Thank goodness, I just spent hours making an end grain board with TB 2 based on a different youtube suggestion, and came across this, 😅

[@tonybarracuda3505]

Tb 3 IS waterproof,,,,, if you don’t believe me look at the label on the bottle says it right there

[@captainkittles]

Is it really ok running through the planar after only 1.5 hours??

[@jarodmorris611]

There are other channels who do 1 hour even

[@ebereduardogarciasirit621]

Where can I find hardwood easily? I have gone to local lowes and home depot and found only softwoods. I want to make some gifts cutting boards for family member

[@EMWoodworking]

Eber Eduardo Garcia Sirit look for an exotic wood dealer. The big box stores don’t carry what you want for cutting boards.

[@nhojcam]

ummm.... i have heard that the best cutting boards are end-grain facing up, which better protects the knife's sharp edge. this also requires two glue-ups. do you have a vid on end-grain cutting boards?

[@gcoca7450]

JohnMac yes end grain is better. Just look up end grain cutting board tips.

[@williamalbright5883]

Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is the first one-part, water cleanup wood glue ever offered that is proven waterproof. The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature. Titebond III is non-toxic, solvent free and cleans up with water - safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards). The ultimate in wood glues - ideal for both interior and exterior applications.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi William, Thanks for the technical info. It's good stuff. -Andrew

[@TheIronMoose]

Isn't purple heart poisonous?

[@emostorm7]

Then why does Titebond 2 list cutting boards on the back if the bottle as a recommended use? Mis-information

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Doug, Titebond II is water resistant, Titebond III is waterproof. I prefer to recommend III in the event that someone submerged the cutting board in the process of washing it. Also, III has a filler in it that reduces the amount that it shrinks back as it dries. This allows it to fill small voids along the glue line. This reduces the potential for black mold growing on the cutting board. Blackmold and bacteria can grow in any void in a cutting board. Looking back, I regret that I didn't site these reasons for my preference for Titebond III in the video. I am grateful that you left your comment so I could clarify the point. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com. -Andrew

[@emostorm7]

As other commenters have stated, Titebond II is absolutely food safe. as I mentioned, it lists cutting boards as a recommended use.

[@emostorm7]

Titebond III being waterproof and titebond II being water resistant is a misnomer. They both have about the same water resistance. But I take your point about TB3 having fillers, I don't know about that.

[@bobabbott2134]

@@emostorm7 However, 3 dries hard and brittle, 2 dries soft and flexible. If you want the board to last for many years, you use 2.

[@samrowe2889]

What about paducah, African mahogany and snake wood I just made my first board out of hard maple purple heart and paducah it's in the glue up phase now lol your going to break my heart if u tell me paducah wont work I have not made the other boards with the other woods yet I dont have enuff clamps lol that's on my to do list man I made a huge mistake in my board then I dont have a clue as to how I glued the gains together I just know I cross cut then turned them up so the grain is up but I didnt look at the orientation so. I may have just wasted 50 bucks in exotic and indigenous wood

[@anniekate76]

Soooooo what if you already made a cutting board using Original Titebond before seeing this? Is it going to fall apart?

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Anniekaye76, Don"t panic. Your cutting board should be fine if you take the following precautions: -avoid submerging the cutting board when washing it -Do not put in the dishwasher -Use the wax mixture shown the the cutting board finishes video that follows this video. The wax will help keep water from penetrating the surface and softening the glue. If you read through the comments you will find an amazon link for the wax. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too, -Andrew

[@anniekate76]

An American Artisan thanks!!!

[@tombeck2792]

the most imporant thing is SAFETY, use the guard, splitter and anti-kick on your TS

[@jarodmorris611]

Safety Third! Is it was truly the must important thing then we wouldn't even be in the shop.

[@valentintorres5745]

Can you use pine?

[@brewsterly2927]

No.

[@JensWoodworkingThings]

Question: I've been trying and trying to figure out why the current fad is to make endgrain cutting boards and bowls when the endgrain is the most open cell part of any wood, and therefore likely to harbor bacteria. Can you please tell me why everyone seems to be doing this?

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Stringsandblings, I agree that end grain cutting boards are in fashion. Like you,I worry about bacteria growing in the open pores of the wood. I have actually been doing samples to try to find a good solution. in the meantime, I am recommending long grain cutting boards. Thanks for watching and commenting. you can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too - Andrew

[@JensWoodworkingThings]

@@anamericanartisan9846 thanks for the quick reply. I was wondering if a food safe resin/self leveling epoxy would solve the porosity issue?

[@rikroberts]

@@JensWoodworkingThings I think many people do end grain because it is considered to be the best configuration for the knives. Also, any knife marks seem to be lessened by the grain.

[@dontmakemeadult8386]

Endgrain cutting boards are the best orientation of the wood for your knife. Think of a paint brush, when laid horizontally and a knife drawn across the bristles, the bristles will cut and damage the brush. Now take the paint brush and lay it vertically with the bristles facing up. Run the knife across the bristles they spread apart and comb back together with little to no damage to the brush. The bristles in this scenario are the fibers of the wood. Long grain boards take damage over time and wear on your knife edge, whereas the endgrain boards are somewhat self healing and knife edge friendly. The concern about bacteria forming on wood is a non-issue. Please see the science report from the University of Wisconsin: www.kitchensource.com/kitchen-islands/pdf/woodvsplastic.pdf where they have tested different boards and found that wood is actually the safest product to use. It is safe to assume that this is why many professional Chefs, Like Ramsay, use them. Hope this helps :-)

[@mrkoolio8494]

Easiest on knives and bacteria dies in the wood. Do you know of anyone who ever got sick from a cutting board? No you do not.

[@simoncroatia]

Isn't beech the cleanest wood to use with food?

[@edwinghysebrechts9377]

simoncroatia exactly. Beech also has natural antibacterial properties which among other advantages (overall thoughness, no splintering,..) make it the best wood for cutting boards. The grain is less pretty than oak or walnut for ex., so you don't see it a lot on youtube which is a shame. Also, have you ever tried handplaning purplewood? Terrible!

[@AnonYmous-qg4ph]

@@edwinghysebrechts9377 you need to sharpen your planes. You know if the back of the blade isn't dressed properly when you first get it you'll never get it sharp?

[@gnarthdarkanen7464]

@@AnonYmous-qg4ph ACTUALLY, you will get it sharp... dressed or not. The plane iron doesn't JUST need to be sharp though... To work properly, a handplane's iron (blade) has to be ABSOLUTELY flat and straight, so that it "beds" with the plane's frame or frog mechanism. "Bedding" the iron properly means that metal touches metal in every location, so that the chip-breaker and cap-iron can be positioned to hold it down TIGHT... If there's even a tiny bit of gap anywhere, difficult cuts of wood and "inconsistent" grain will cause "chatter". Plane "Chatter" involves the iron warping slightly as the edge digs into some place in the wood-grain, then releases as the grain "tears out" leaving splintering and "hairry" effects. You can hear the difference between a properly tuned plane (with a well bedded iron) "singing" as it strips very neat flakes out of the surface, and the "Chattering" sound of a poorly bedded iron digging chips and chunks and leaving behind a horrible "red hot mess"... It's worth note, that knowing which direction of the grain is the "growth direction" will also improve your finished product. Cutting from the base toward the top (or from the "big end to the little end") of wood-grain will consistently leave a finer finished surface than the other way, because trees grow in "cones" from the inside ring to the outermost and then the "sap grains" between the "established wood" and the bark of the tree... Throughout the season of growth, the current "cones" are still growing toward the top of the tree, meaning that their fibers are somewhere "incomplete" along it's length. When you cut the tree into boards, no matter how you calculate or how precise the instrument, there are irregular unfinished grains that just "end" somewhere along the surface layers... and running any blade "down" the tree is pressing against those grains toward their source, causing them to "rise up" like hairy little splinters. Cutting "upward" in the same direction as growth, will "smooth" them down, pressing them into the wood below, and avoiding "hairy splinters" and even some tear-out. You DO have a valid point about planes being sharpened and being sharpened PROPERLY, so I'm not posting to argue. I just thought you'd be interested in the actual WHY part, as precisely as I can offer it. I found it in the segment from "The Cabinetmaker's Workshop" from "The Home Cabinetmaker" by Burch, published by Harper and Row... and my copy was from 1982. (just in case you want a good physical copy/reference). ;o)

[@friendsonearth]

I have been question myself, many years Titebond II is food safe or not, I read many stories is OK and food safe. maybe is a big company. One time I accidentally talk to my lawyers friend who specialize commercial told me if manufacture not deny or deny is better believe is not food safe. especially this case why Titebond III is explicitly food safe not II. something not telling us

[@jarodmorris611]

Titebond II s explicitly food safe

[@carmonacrafts1972]

I just made a cutting board for my mother out of Ash and red oak but I do notice how the Grain on the oak might cause a little bit of problems turned out beautiful I applied about for coats of mineral oil I was wondering how long do you wait until you actually use it and do you have to hand wash it before you use it

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Gerado, You don't have to wash it before the first use but you should wash it after each use. Watch out for black mold growing in the coarse grain of the oak and ash. -Andrew

[@carmonacrafts1972]

An American Artisan thank you very much

[@cnotemilbourn]

What about using mahogany for a cutting board?

[@bobabbott2134]

it's rather soft so durability would be an issue. As an accent off to the edge it may be a good choice.

[@howardliptrot2092]

Would you mind replying to the questions posted please

[@bobabbott2134]

Pretty sure he's noped right off of KZbin. It's fairly simple to edit/update the video with a subtitle explaining Titebond 2 is food safe and purpleheart is not a good wood in cutting boards.

[@TeighMart]

Why do you want the boards to be quarter sawn or rift sawn?

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Wood expands and contracts at average of 1/16" per foot of width on plain sand wood. By turning the grain on edge and making the plain sawn stop quarter sawn, we minimize the expansion and get a much more stable and flat cutting board. Good luck with your project. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Andrew

[@AnonYmous-qg4ph]

White oak would actually be a decent choice. I mean they use it in ships and barrels. Your sealing it with oil and wax. Think about it, a cutting board that's been used much is marred to hell by knife blades, why are you worrying about bacteria getting into "pores"(it's not as porous as you think). Everyone I know scrubs their cutting board with soap and water after every use.

[@DanielDunlap]

It says right on the Titebond website that Titebond 2 is safe for cutting boards. www.titebond.com/product.aspx?id=2ef3e95d-48d2-43bc-8e1b-217a38930fa2

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Daniel, Thanks. -Andrew

[@crimsonking5788]

At my school we use a planer to flatten it so tip:6 don’t stand behind the planer because my cutting board shot at me and I shifted my bladder so DONT DO IT!

[@ryansantaana]

My brother just made me two beautiful cutting boards,but they're red oak with one strip of maple. Should I not use them? I'm on my second application of mineral oil on both.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Ryan, I would be concerned about black mold growing in the deep pores of the red oak. You could finish them and use them for display or as a trivet but I don't recommend preparing food on them. -Andrew

[@iamwhoiam4410]

@ Ryan Santa Ana...Not to worry, nothing wrong with using red oak in a board, especially if it was kiln dried. As all boards, keep them clean, and when they start feeling dry, clean the board and re oil it. Should last many years.

[@garthn2561]

Oak is one of the best woods at killing bacteria. The only real concern is that some people are allergic to oak. If you aren't - then the boards are fine. Seal the wood by using a proper cutting board finish, not just mineral oil. Red oak contains tannic acid, which kills bacteria effectively. The pores are not a factor as long as the board is sealed

[@musicbymark]

I didn't follow how you establish hollows in the middle - just that you put straightest board in the middle; ideally most if not all would be pretty straight after jointing and planing. Are you hand planing some material from the mid sections to creation the hollow/concavedness?

[@cirkach08]

О чем видео как склеить щит?????

[@galendirks1580]

White oak is a closed grain wood and not at all like red oak. White oak is used in whiskey barrels and does not absorb much moisture. I us white oak in my cutting boards.

[@anthonydtobias]

White Oak and Red Oak are not the same, Red Oak is an open pores species and is not a very good choice for cutting boards as you said. But White Oak is a closed grain wood, making it ideal for outdoor projects and cutting boards. It's the closed pores that keep out water, making it more resist to rot and a lot of bacteria (plus bacteria dies within a few days or so because of the wood). It's strange how there are a lot of answers saying yes and no to this question...

[@shaneknerr4014]

Ill save you time on the next video. For CUTTING BOARDS USE A FOOD SAFE CUTTING BOARD MINERAL OIL. APPLYING MULTIPLE COATS. BEST TO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CONTAINER OF THE MINERAL OIL.

[@terrymcnutt4951]

Have you thought about making a video on this subject

[@EMWoodworking]

All caps does not help.

[@vernoncrown]

@@EMWoodworking So, you're saying you cannot read caps?

[@EMWoodworking]

@@vernoncrown Did I say that? If you want to add to the conversation ok. But if you’re just here to annoy people. Well you’re blocked.

[@stephenyandell7240]

The blue one is also foodsafe according to the label.

[@stephenyandell7240]

*food safe

[@christinayutzy7389]

you should have more subscribers

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Nick, Thanks so much! Feel free to share the channel with friends. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com. -Andrew

[@christinayutzy7389]

An American Artisan I will do that

[@allobove7798]

White oak is porous? Why is it used for barrels? Red oak is porous, not white oak. It was the preferred wood for ships back on the day.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Jeffries, My concern with white oak is the deep texture of the grain. I worry that bacteria or black mold could collect there. You are right, my referring to it as porous, makes one think of it likelihood to absorb water. I am not concerned about that because the mineral oil and wax mixture shown in the following video will repel water. Thanks for watching and commenting! You can view a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too! -Andrew

[@allobove7798]

@@anamericanartisan9846 Actually shocked you replied, lol. Thanks. I don't use white oak in my cutting boards but I've thought about. This saves me the time.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Jeffries, Glad I could save you some time. Good luck with your next cutting board. -Andrew -Andrew

[@garthn2561]

I haven't used oak, maple is first choice - but my guess is the normal beeswax/mineral oil finish would seal the pores anyway. Wood kills bacteria...stainless steel and plastic don't. Mtmwood has a graph showing bacteria extermination rates. Oak is actually by far the best for that

[@chartnett0627]

Not only is Titebond II food safe, it has 3 times fewer VOCs than Titebond III. You should probably make that correction. You literally just have to look at their website......www.titebond.com/community/the-big-three

[@charlieodom9107]

No white oak? That is contrary to any other opinion I have found.

[@parkwayconcepts8758]

Titebond 3 is the least of the food safe glues that Titebond offers.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Parkway Concepts, Thanks for your input. If you read through the comments you will see if give a more nuanced explanation for my preference for Titebond 3. Technically, all three versions are food safe. Titebond I is not water proof and Titebond II is only water resistant. I prefer Titebond III because it is waterproof. I like to wash my cutting boards regularly so this feature is helpful. Also, Titebond III has a small amount of a filling agent in it so the glue doesn't sink back as much into any small voids that may occur if a joint isn't fully closed. This is important because any void is an invitation for bacteria or black mold to collect. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too! -Andrew

[@williamstanton6710]

Use TB 2 Been making cutting boards for years This guy is to tense

[@shaneknerr4014]

Sorry to disagree with you champ. But a resoursenal two part glue is the best for cutting boards.

[@joshmaier18]

Don’t take long but you still have to wait a day or 2 for the glue to dry

[@ChiefMoonChunks]

45 minutes before running through a planer? more like 4-5 hours.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi, Yes, it sounds funny, but that amount of time works fine. If it's cold out add some time. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. -Andrew

[@TheAsylum100]

Spring joints and the end grain direction irrelevant if you are batching out. You wont make money because of the labour. Great video though

[@murraytrimmer228]

some really good tips but......"this professional wood worker"? Where is your riving knife?

[@davexb6595]

You start with the assumption that Titebond is the only PVA glue in the world. Where is the evidence that Titebond is any better than white PVA that sets clear? Or that it is so much better that there is no need to even mention other brands? Also you are misinformed about what is food safe. The point about the grain direction was helpful.

[@anamericanartisan9846]

Hi Dave, Thanks for taking the time to comment. I recommend Titebond III for two reasons. It is waterproof not just water resistant. The his helps your cutting board last if it is submerged when washed or accidentally run through the dishwasher. It also has a bit of a filler in it. Most PVA adhesives sink back into small voids as they dry. Titebond III is much less likely to do so because of the filler. This is important because any small void in the grain of the cutting board is a place where bacteria can gather or mold can grow. Thanks for watching and commenting. you can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. -Andrew