Cutting Metal With Water! HHO Torch Success - ElementalMaker

[@blzahz7633]

I love how careless you are, it's entertaining because nothing really happens.

[@michaeltempsch5282]

A conductor doesn't really care whether it's AC at mains frequency or DC (for higher frequencies, see Skin Effect), but the straightener's 800W at 110V is less than 8A while the power supply's 300W at 5V is 60A.

[@sourmash5715]

for someone to grab a steel cup that had just held a torch to,shows there true intellect.

[@LondonRednek]

You mean "their"? Sure showing yours, jackass! 😂

[@williammorris1763]

Yes, steel. How stupid of me to think an aluminum can was made from aluminum.

[@amiaf]

How are you still alive dude?! In 4 minutes you burned yourself, your table, almost pointed the flame on the canister... Be carefull man, hydrogen is no joke

[@ElementalMaker]

Pure skill man. That's how

[@ahmdabdallah5811]

God has said in the Quran: { O mankind, worship your Lord, who created you and those before you, that you may become righteous - ( 2:21 ) [He] who made for you the earth a bed [spread out] and the sky a ceiling and sent down from the sky, rain and brought forth thereby fruits as provision for you. So do not attribute to Allah equals while you know [that there is nothing similar to Him]. ( 2:22 ) And if you are in doubt about what We have sent down upon Our Servant [Muhammad], then produce a surah the like thereof and call upon your witnesses other than Allah, if you should be truthful. ( 2:23 ) But if you do not - and you will never be able to - then fear the Fire, whose fuel is men and stones, prepared for the disbelievers.( 2:24 ) And give good tidings to those who believe and do righteous deeds that they will have gardens [in Paradise] beneath which rivers flow. Whenever they are provided with a provision of fruit therefrom, they will say, "This is what we were provided with before." And it is given to them in likeness. And they will have therein purified spouses, and they will abide therein eternally. ( 2:25 ) Quran

[@DirtmopAZ]

This project is turning out to be one of those “bit off more you can chew” types hahaha. But you’re handling it like a champ! Plus, it’s creating excellent content for the channel! I love all the problems that get created after you fix a previous problem. Excited to see what the next problem will be after the heat sinks are installed haha.

[@ElementalMaker]

LOL im sure another one will yet pop out after I fix the electrode connection. Love these kinds of projects, as they always keep you thinking. Glad your enjoying!

[@tako1257]

If something is getting hot like the terminal posts, USE A HEATSINK! Also as an electrician i must tell you to isolate the open wires, its not much work but can prevent alot of things

[@ppcgnamda]

AvEs identical twin separated at birth and brought to America.

[@danielstrobel3832]

this guy MUST BE IvE!

[@rob3125]

And his name is dAvE 😂😂😂😂😂

[@LuisLopez2]

I keep thinking both of them run their voices through pitch changer

[@hyperhektor7733]

well finally a very quiet method of cutting sheet metal, i will try that

[@drphu]

Are the copper lugs just screwed down to the plastic lid with out nuts or washers on both sides of the lugs? if so that is causing a lot more heat if the thread was longer sticking out so you can have a washer on both sides of the copper, exceeding the size of the copper lugs and make that very Tight pinch of the copper lugs, that will help the heat. VERY COOL and DANGEROUS TOY LIGHTER! AWESOME!

[@dannyanderson6472]

it is the amount of current being drawn by the cell, it is more than the copper conductor can handle so it gets hot. he needs to reduce the saturation of his electrolyte solution in order to make the solution less conductive and therefore draw less current

[@drphu]

@@dannyanderson6472 Well it's Both reasons. I deal in power high power for a living and would not consider tightening a conductor down with only a conductor on one side.

[@azurplex]

For the 60A that your supply can deliver plus a 10% margin, you'll need #4 AWG wire! It also looks like you could use a baffle to keep electrolyte splash out of the tube. Like others mentioned, some "neutral" plates will cut down some of that waste heat, in other words, increased efficiency. Divide your supply voltage by 2.1V to find the number of plate gaps between your +V and -V terminals.

[@agentrfr1]

You can solder the bolt where the copper bar, screw and bolt meet. That'll decrease the local resistance and should prevent that melting of the PVC

[@TomokosEnterprize]

WOOHOO ON YOU BUD ! I made a tumbler barrel the same as you have here and it works great. Thanks fella !

[@thomasesr]

You can use longer threaded rods and wrap the copper conductor directly into the rod and brace/clamp it with some thicker solid copper wire wrapped around it, the direct contact with the rod should allow more current without over heating and by using longer rods you can keep some distance to allow any heat to dissipate more.

[@SA601154]

That laugh really makes me wanting to watch your videos again ahaha. Really nice work :)

[@ElementalMaker]

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed 👍

[@dalihbt]

"Gasier than me on Taco Tuesday"...Lol hilarious. Cool HHO build!

[@MrKclo42112]

congrats ,that what I'd call success. that will come in real handy for micro welding electrical contacts

[@ElementalMaker]

Thanks Tony!

[@survivalbert7017]

Nice! Combine your HHO- torch with a CNC, and you could cut some pretty cool metal items.

[@patrickrooney8225]

I would recommend that you extend the stainless rods enough that you can use 2 nuts to complete the connection to the lug. This will insure constant compression and reduce the heating because of melting thatch reduces the contact pressure for the connection.

[@moonolyth]

I'm a wire bender now for dental service. Very precise work! We do lots of silver soldering on stainless wire These are cool tools I want one. I also solder my own band saw blades I'll bet it works well for this type of stuff.

[@ethanmye-rs]

Just so you know, current capacity of a wire is a function of cross sectional wire, a material constant, and length. Power has nothing to do with wire size- a hair thin piece of copper can carry 1000W no problem if the voltage is crazy high or it is a very short wire. Also, the Verneuil process was commonly used to make ruby/sapphire/etc all the way back in the 1800s. Should be very doable with your torch. Consider buying al2o3 - the verneuil process is going to require fairly high purities.

[@insAneTunA]

300 watt is way to much for the cell that you have, since your cell doesn't have a lot of plate surface you should use a less strong electrolyte solution in order to make it work safely and reliable. Also ad a neutral plate instead of just one anode and cathode. Your voltage is too high as well, and that also results in heat production. By adding an extra neutral plate you will bring down the voltage per plate but the HHO production will increase a little because of the extra surface area. You are taking a lot of risk with melting the plastic, I have seen a few examples of exploding cells. You can melt sand into glass, you can carve names or random words into rocks, you can cut steel if you had more gas production, you can braze copper pipe with it, you can make jewelry, you can melt glass with it, you can refine gold with it. It has many applications. It's a very clean and extremely hot flame so you will have very little contamination. Also make sure that your steel wool is stainless, regular steel wool will burn and make things even worse in case a back flash occurs, but stainless steel wool doesn't burn. It's easy to check with a 9 volt battery. Short the battery with some steel wool (outside the house) and when the steel wool burns it is not stainless and not usable as a flame arrestor.

[@fss1704]

insAneTunA try cigarrette filters, but don't abuse them....

[@Draakdarkmaster6]

i managed to make an HHO generator work cleanly and without excess heat just splicing apart an old laptop adapter, it put out 18 volts so i added neutral plates to bring the total of plates (including anode and cathode) to 9 to bring the voltage per plate down to around 2 volts and my HHO production was pretty good for the unit size and surface area of the plates, the rule of thumb i heard (and based on my testing seems to ring true) is that you want half as many plates as you have volts, and you want to optimally aim for 12 volts so that each plate gets 2 volts for optimal HHO production without wasting energy and producing heat. but i'll admit i'm a novice at this and thats essentially all i got.

[@ab_ab_c]

Here are a few ideas that might be worth your time: 1. Install a controller between the power supply & the reactor. It will allow you to set the optimal power level for your reactor (which should help to reduce the heat that is generated at your hot terminal). 2. Attach a tightly fitting copper flange plate around your hottest terminal. Install an aluminum heat sink to the copper flange plate with heat conductive compound & then use a blow dryer fan to force cooler room air over the heat sink to dissipate the heat that is generated. If done properly, the copper flange plate should help to significantly increase the heat flow away from the stainless steel post--PVC junction to minimize the chance the PVC will melt. Thanks for sharing!

[@ElementalMaker]

Both solid ideas! I am fabricating up a heat sink for it as we speak with essentially the exact design you describe

[@ab_ab_c]

Super. I hope it works well for your design & look forward to seeing if it will do the job well enough.

[@Flederratte]

Cool upgrade. I am very excited when you melt Al2O3. It will be interesting to see if it is easy to melt and how it will behave when molten. Maybe it is castable and stays in one piece so you can really make a piece of synthethic ruby.

[@kleetus92]

That's not the production method... you need to fuse a fine powder onto a seed crystal or 'boule' to start from.

[@hunterloren2323]

I love this project! HHO torches seem to catch a lot of shit for some reason, this looks like a lot of fun, practical uses aside, splitting molecules in the garage to produce an extremely hot flame sounds like a good time to me!

[@ElementalMaker]

I think anything HHO gets a bad rap due to the potato brains trying to power their car and create overunity devices with HHO cells. It's definitely been an awesome project though, and the result has been great. Thanks for dropping a comment!

[@hunterloren2323]

I heard that! I am hoping to try this soon, first I am still playing with a vacuum cannon i made from an old A/C compressor a neighbor gave me. Can only draw about 27.5"Hg so not sure if i can get the vacuum strong enough. Once i break the sound barrier in the shop with a ping pong ball I am hoping to try a few projects dealing with electricity. I saw someone produce Iron Oxide (III) using rail road ties, an electrolyte solution, and a 12v supply, seems like this would be cheaper to produce this way at home instead of purchasing the ingredients for thermite reactions.

[@eyescreamcake]

That's because there's no such thing as HHO. "HHO" is a scam created by an Italian dude to sell bullshit products. This is actually called a "water torch", and the gas is just a stoichiometric mixture of hydrogen and oxygen, called "oxyhydrogen", not "HHO".

[@BigHonkinGoose]

EVERY video I come to, I see some comment mentioning AVE at the top. Rest assured, this content is much more enjoyable.

[@st0n3p0ny]

Awesome. But, pro tip: Don't point your cutting torch at the oxy-hydro bomb that's sitting in front of your face.

[@ElementalMaker]

That's a very fair tip!

[@RyeOnHam]

Will adding oxygen to the stream allow you to burn through metal more efficiently?

[@_P0tat07_]

You need one like the rhnb guy. He’s got a really killer torch. Cars and water I think is the channel.

[@ericgillespie2812]

Glad to see you got it working!

[@TobiasKornmayer]

Maybe try welding stainless with argon shielding via a bigger needle over/around the hho one.

[@chasingcapsaicin]

Braze your contacts with 95 silver, or 15% is what I had to use last week on a small compressor. Going from Cu to steel sucks but is possible, not easy, and takes a shitload of temp and flux(black) that seems to burn off but helps. Got a wine fridge from the trash heap now that holds 3 cases of beer. Woot

[@Orbis92]

In addition to some heat sinks, you could try to make a connection block out of some material like Teflon or some kitchen table sample blocks which should be heat resistant (don't ask, my dad uses them for all kinds of stuff, like knife handles...)

[@OverTaxed42Long]

Where do you get sample blocks of Teflon? I have a small sheet I salvaged from a lazy Susan I now use for various things like glide bearings in my dryer. Don't bother buying them off Amazon, they're crap from China and last about a month. Same with the drum rollers. Get oem.

[@CarcharothQuijadasdelased]

If the connectors of the cell get too hot you can try to weld the parts, just with regular solder, you may can use the flame of the cell it self to weld it, if the flame is hot enough to heat a spot before the PVC melts. Other option is use the TTL feature of the cell "Tiny Thermal Lance" ;) to melt the problematic parts together (just a few spots) that should melt steel and copper without heating up the PVC.

[@thenighthaunter6342]

Great deal to pain may be so bold as to add to your build? Try running that through a radiator submerged in another tank of nice cold water with ice in it you should up your used time for it greatly and you won't run the risk of melting anything

[@thenighthaunter6342]

And it most certainly wouldn't hurt instead of using water use dry ice and rubbing alcohol then you damn near got yourself some cryo fluid and it should have been indefinitely for quite some time

[@1NRG24Seven]

I have the cure for this amperage draw problem. I finally discovered what Stan Meyers was doing even if he did not totally understand it or not. I have been experimenting with this technology since 1987 and first discovered that pure Nickel produces the most production but its real expensive stuff and well Stan was using 304L SS cause it has the highest content of Nickel. Anyway my research discovery led me to what I am calling the Holy Grail because it eliminates the need to use all of Stan's circuits and his type cells it works on "ALL" HHO cells because its a conditioned Pure water that Stan's electronics and various other devices like the HHO spark plug was doing. The key is what Stan said that he "preconditioned" the water and that is what his circuits did to set up a way that water could be split with little or no current and run cool in the process. Well this is what I am now making the precondition "HOLY GRAIL" that can be added to this existing device and bring your amps down to around point 5 amps instead of 30-40 amps and still get the same or greater production. I know it sounds to good to be true but I am blown away myself as I sort of stumbled on the information by accident and it confirmed what I wrote about over 10 years ago and that was that Stan was mimicking nature in thunderstorms. In particular high voltage plasma like in a lightning bolt and that was his UV lasers in the plug. But first the water had to be pre-conditioned to split with much less energy so once the intense UV lasers hit the water mist it charged it up to a high degree for the ultimate water splitting dump and KABOOM comes the thunder. Well the Holy Grail is all you will need to get the same effect which is an added feature so as to not need a thousand dollars worth of electronic wizardry to do it. And nobody has been able to figure that part out until now. So I would like to send you a sample for free so you can do a live test whatever would like you to also confirm it does what I believe it will do for everyone. Its not good enough that its working on my own build I need others to help validate this stuff cause it changes everything. You should be able to go from the 200 watts your drawing now which is 40 amps times 5 volts equals 200 watts to 70 times less current. So think of the implications, that means you can run 70 of these same HHO cells you built here and run all 70 for the same 200 watts and then be increasing your gas yield to run your car completely free from any other fuel just using the alternator or build enough cells to produce enough gas to make a much larger flame to do some real cutting like cutting through 6" of armor plate like butter or run your entire home off it by feeding a genset whatever the sky is the limit. I am now building a monster 220 plate system that will produce hopefully and this is a low estimate 60lpm. Call me or message me here or call @ 503 895 5909 and if I am not here just leave your number cause many times I am up in my shop and no cell service here or phone up there. But I am excited as hell over this its been almost 40 years and I now know why the water took so much current to split all the pieces of the puzzle came together and will release the information soon as I can get some more feedbackfrom guys like you doing some basic builds. Thanx man and never give up the world is about to change to a better place. Regards Mike in Heppner Oregon...we can do this!!!! BTW your the first on KZbin I have even said this much to. Good day.

[@davidduquenne516]

Nice torch I think if you look on the web though you'll find a paper by the Air Force. Creating HHO with DC pairs the hydrogens up and they have to be broken apart in the burning process to create water. If you use 2 volts ac the hydrogen's will not pair up. And you'll find the properties of the gas will heat anything to its melting point.

[@ElementalMaker]

Hydrogen is a diatomic element, so one hydrogen atom will always pair with another unless some very, very rare conditions are met.I hate to burst your HHO bubble, but whomever made that claim to you is selling snake oil.

[@IanDarley]

It might be worth considering putting the generator inside another containment or under your bench, just in case you get an internal spark from one of the electrodes. A face full of hot sodium hydroxide would be really really bad. Keep on keeping on with the experiments.

[@ElementalMaker]

The generator itself is nearly filled to the brim, so there is very little room for the gas to explode even if it were to make it past the flashback arrestors. The solution is also quite weak, being less than 1% NaOH.

[@MegaStalker11]

Hey just a tip from another experimenter. try to make as pure of Al2O3 as possible. Sodium is a problem with synthetic ruby and will make them white. I found the best way to make Al2O3 ( and funnest ) was to powderize aluminum then light it on fire all by it's self then with a blower adding oxygen to it to make sure it has all burnt. Also If you want to get into it I know the reagents needed to make flux rubies.

[@ElementalMaker]

Very good to know, i didn't realize Na contamination would affect it so drastically. I plan to use some aluminum obtained from melting cans, which are quite pure from my understanding, then I was going to dissolve in Reagent grade HCl, and react with Na2CO3, i would have though it would be easy to remove the sodium ions, as they will be highly soluble in water, whereas the Aluminum hydroxide is insoluble. After a few rinses with DI water I would imagine the purity to be above 99.9. I may end up trying both ways to see the best result.

[@MegaStalker11]

@@ElementalMaker It would be awesome to see it both ways. I initially used the bayer process to make my alumina, unfortunately I didn't have the equipment to melt it. So I will look forward to your video!

[@andrewlorona7360]

I believe aluminum cans have some magnesium in the lids. So I would use just the bodies or some thick aluminum wire which should also be very pure.

[@insAneTunA]

Inside the microwave ovens there are some nice ring magnets as well. Inside the ring magnets there is a ceramic like part, be sure not to touch, scratch or break that part since it is a very unhealthy material. I collected the parts from two microwave ovens a few months ago. I've seen the king of random video with the arc forge. He also made a nice spot welder from a microwave transformer. That might come in handy for making metal casings or housings for other stuff.

[@PYROBOY724]

Looks good, maybe try incorporating a radiator to cool the water in the PVC down, could help with your heating issue

[@ElementalMaker]

Very solid idea! If I have to do any long runs that will be a great solution for cooling the cell.

[@tomconner5067]

You also need a one way low resistance check valve right before the syringe tube so any flash back is prevented from traveling past the (brass wool) arrestor.

[@bloodhound8000]

Nice project ! Try putting the torch head in a cnc to cut parts or possibly etching materials.

[@AtlasReburdened]

Uses? Learn to work glass. That's a skill worth having and I'm pretty sure you can dabble with jointery and small art even with the steam filled HHO that cell is putting out.

[@ElementalMaker]

Didn't even think of doing some glass work with it, great idea!

[@BRP42]

I work with glass, and it would be fun to experiment with this!

[@theSFCchannel]

For more performance simply use a Mid-to high end COMPUTER power supply. if you take the voltage from the PCIE-RAIL those can output at 12volts and 25 AMPS and more

[@rtonce]

Congrats on the successful cutting - nice. A next possible direction might be to produce hydrogen gas by chemically reacting sodium hydroxide and aluminum, and using the gas pressure to regulate the NaOH level, so regulating the reaction to produce as needed hydrogen gas? If done right, no need to store too much gas, but just produce it OTF. Uses= producing hydrogen to power a regular gasoline engine from scrap aluminum.

[@fenderblues1744]

You could put some clip on heat-sinks on the top of those contact posts keep them cooler longer.

[@ElementalMaker]

If you see the more recent video that's actually just any what I did. Worked perfectly!

[@ergohack]

I think that what you need to do to solve the heating problem would be to increase the conductivity of your electrode busbars. Stainless has ~43.5 times the resistivity of copper, so you'd need something around 3/4" allthread to have similar conductivity to 10AWG copper wire. Since that is a bit bulky for your current set-up, it might be better to try and make some threaded rods out of copper, and have them chrome-plated. Another thing you could try would be to use stainless tubing, put both an external and internal thread on it, and then give it a copper core by threading in a piece of copper bar.

[@ElementalMaker]

I would love to use copper all thread, but it will rapidly deteriorate in the HHO cell, at least on the anode side. I have a few ideas to get it working better though!

[@ergohack]

That's why I suggested getting it chrome plated.

[@greglaletin]

Just as said before the power running through the cable isn’t what heats it, it’s the currant. The thin cable has a small resistance, that resistance X current tells you what voltage is lost in the cable. That voltage X current again tells you the power that is wasted as heat in the cable, so in your cable the power used to heat the cable increases exponentially as you increase the current. Also buy cables from hobby shops, it’s silicon coated so won’t burn and the copper is very fine strand that is silver coated, great for 100+ amps in 10awg.

[@ElementalMaker]

Yeah I had a brainfart while filming and realize how poorly of an engineer I must sound LOL

[@OverTaxed42Long]

Taco Tuesday! "Tacos rule man". Love Tex Mex. I'll watch to see all you do with it now. Excellent video.

[@mystamo]

EM nice job on keeping with the DIY theme and going with the needle. The blunt tips did the trick. As for something to try...Fill a balloon and blow it up stat!.. Wasn't that the first thing you were supposed to do?

[@norbist2]

If you change the polarity the other electrode will be hot. Direction of curent flow matters copper to inox, or inox to copper. One heating up, another cooling down (but at high amps not cooling down just not as hot like another electrode), like peltier plate.

[@landroveraddict2457]

Dude i laughed when you picked up the cup, sorry but it's just the kind of thing I would do and I was happy to see someone else make the mistake. One thing you need to be aware of is arc eye sun burn on your eyes is not fun. Be careful when heating to white hot use dark UV safety shades.

[@ElementalMaker]

Yeah for much of this I did have my welding goggles on, just didn't show it. The first time I played with it burning stainless without proper eye protection I had a couple purple spots in my vision for a few hours

[@Freizeitflugsphaere]

Well I am using a very similiar power supply which looks pretty much the same. The only difference is that it produces 12 volts and 60 amps. The problem is that my old one got damaged a few weeks ago. The new one I ordered sadly has some kind of protection against too much current. So I need some kind of device which regulates how much current is drawn by my hydrogen cell. Has someone an idea how I could possible do that? Great video also! I still recommend you building a dry cell. You can't imagine what 3 liters per minute are able to do😂😅 Your cell is still very nice to start with to collect experiences, before you are getting to the real stuff😂👍🏼

[@AtlasReburdened]

You can try reducing the concentration of the electrolyte.

[@ElementalMaker]

You could use a current limiting resistor or some sort, or a circuit dedicated to act as a linear current limiter.

[@Freizeitflugsphaere]

@@AtlasReburdened Well i don't want to loose a whole lot of hho production. 3 lpm are kinda nice😅

[@Freizeitflugsphaere]

@@ElementalMaker Well that's a better option, I am just not quite the best at that electronical stuff... Thanks I need to search for some kind of similiar solution👍🏼

[@AtlasReburdened]

Well, then you'll probably have to go with a big honking low ohm resistor like EM suggested, or a few big ol' transistors with big ol' heatsinks as a variable resistor. Your only real options past that are to scketchily modify the supply and hope that the lower bounds of the voltage it can produce is within your needed range, or fork out for a buck converter with the same ratings as your supply. You can buy big resistors or just pull them out of scrapped high end exercise bikes.

[@quertize]

Won't steel wool be bad? It is flammable.

[@hamhawk4027]

Making synthetic ruby sounds amazing

You need old school fibre washers on your electrical connections to stop the heat melting the plastic.

[@ElementalMaker]

Need to find some! That would be perfect!

[@tako1257]

Is the flame bright enough to damage your eyes? Are welding goggles required?

[@tako1257]

@Tudu TDM Which one are you awnsering? Why are you even awnsering 4 months later? Im so confused

[@WestCoastPicks]

A Bit of silicone tube around the bolts would insulate the PVC from the heat.

[@ElementalMaker]

If you check out my more recent videos I was able to get the issue sorted with a couple heatsinks. Silicone tube definitely would have been a nice touch though! Great idea right there

[@kreynolds1123]

If you get a second cell and wire the two cells in series youll drop about 2.5v volts across each cell For more efficent electrolisys. Alternately, you could wire two cells in parallel with one set of 10 gauge to one cell and another set of 10 guage wires to the other cell

[@james10739]

I was thinking about building one maybe getting some aluminum allthread for the penetration then go to the stainless to mitigate heat in the pvc cap

[@Lumbeelegend]

My ass is clinching this whole video. I hate youtube safety officers, but HOLY SHIT, lmao.

[@eemonster]

I got a hho welder and it came with a "booster" bubbler that it says to fill with methyl alcohol in order to make the flame bigger and less oxidizing

[@ElementalMaker]

Pretty cool! Although I'd imagine the added methanol combustion would lower the flame temp a bit.

Maybe oversizing the terminal holes and filling it with epoxy would insulate the PVC enough for it to run a decent amount of time.

[@billwoehl7043]

Need a pulse width modulator to keep YOU HHO cell from having runaway amperes.

[@jrlstables]

bill woehl i was scanning through the comments section to see if anyone else suggested this before i said anything. 👍👍

[@lancemenke2728]

pwm yup and add sonification if you want lots and lots of production. Sonification increases nucleation rate and this leads to less recombining that makes it heat up and waists energy. nobody knows this trick some have tuned there mech shape and driven the pwm frequency to resonance not knowing they were causing the increase with ultrasound from the combination at resonance the gain and very low heating losses should have made it obvious.

[@sunnywest6468]

and a backflow arrestor please

[@lancemenke2728]

@@sunnywest6468 and some "wool" in a tube is a fail . how many times people have advised same info. I can only hope he reads and takes a momento to consider, then picks those minimum necessary items so the results are not with so much risk. melts cap says don't wanna make another. really ok

[@fss1704]

Lance Menke lol i used cigarrete filters, 3 rows of them before a bubbler, they're not perfect but they work.

[@Krawacik3d]

I think you'll need much more power for melting things. Cheap way to get powerful PSU is to buy PC power supply($60 for 1200W). And you will need to have separate oxygen and hydrogen line to be more flexible. Sometimes you'll have to have more reducing flame and sometimes more oxidising one.

[@dahuskey81]

Hey bud, I love what you do! As I do a lot of tinkering and coming up with crazy stuff as well. The issue that I saw you running into to with this video is that your copper electrode is over heating due to the amount of resistance that is passing through that node. Do you know the exact current you are looking for? Do you need it at the max 50 Amps? One of my suggestions to possible try is adding a heat sink, by either adding a resistor between the two nodes say around 10k Ohms (To act as your heat sink) and then letting 49.5 Amps running to your circuit. That in theory should eliminate part of the over heating part. My calculations was that 5 V / 50 A = 100 ohms of resistance in your main non split reaction. By taking the Current and splitting it up with a 10 K resistor in parral with the 100 ohm resistance of your main circuit, you can leak 0.5 A; I2 = (10k / 10.1k ) * 50 => 49.5 and use that energy as coolant. May give you more time running before you PVC pipe says "Done". Shoot you could even put on a variable resistor to adjust the current depending on how much gas you need. Damn it man now I am going through a rabbit hole!! Just keep it up bud you are an inspiration :)

[@ElementalMaker]

If you check out the more recent videos you will see I got the terminal overheating issue sorted using heatsinks. Working great thus far!

[@jasonsmith1415]

Isn't H H O self oxidizing? Why isn't the flame going back up the line?

[@ElementalMaker]

HHO is a stoichiometric mix of Hydrogen and Oxygen, so it will react quite violently once initiated. To prevent flashback (which is when the flame propagates up the tube back to the source), I utilize a flashback arrestor.

[@joajaimemarti4556]

Try using heat resistant kit that should do the trick

[@christopher-tipstrumleslie6307]

THAT, is a hot torch. Can it cut rolled steel? With a cutting interface that thing could save a lot of labor and time and fuel. The men in black are on their way!

[@joeestes8114]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing!

[@nathanlewis5682]

An idea for the top cap where the electrodes go in. Instead of pvc, make it from high temperature graphite ceramic like how crucibles are made.

[@quantumlab9130]

You should make a dry cell, it will be much better. It runs much cooler and draws much less current and produces way more gas.

[@AtlasReburdened]

Plus the output won't be so full of steam and toxic side reaction gases.

[@Orbis92]

Which toxic side reaction gases are you talking about, except the melting pvc pipe? I am no expert, but shouldn't there be just H², O² and steam...

[@OverTaxed42Long]

@@Orbis92 stuff being cut, burned, melted, welded. Those gases.

[@ElementalMaker]

@@AtlasReburdened there aren't any toxic fumes from the hho generator. Just hho and some steam.

[@AtlasReburdened]

ElementalMaker That depends on the electrolyte, the maximum voltage between any two points in solution, and the distance between them.

[@evilcanofdrpepper]

You could setup something to hold the gas like NightHawkInLight's water bucket system but have the buckets held in place so if something goes boom it just dissipates the energy into the body water instead of your body...

[@ElementalMaker]

That's a great idea! I definitely want to try something like that

[@lancemenke2728]

smooth tip and enough gas flow to get a gap between tip and flame always works best anytime O2 is in the mix. Adjust the power supply down to get optimum current. there is a adj pot on the supply. To high of cell voltage will overheat everything cell terminals ect ect also the power to high on cell causes O3.....4..5 as the temp goes up so does this factor and as number increases the flash point goes down rapidly!. hho has very low density a atm and burns extremely fast the low density makes the bang from the reduction of volume after the wee bit of heat so producing even greater reactivity of the O increases burn rate dangerously. @2.5 volts the separation is at minimum reduce voltage by 1/2 a volt should help for operation of few minutes. Thermal and fluid level fail safes save from have to pick pvc bits out of your body. I have built these out of soda pop bottles but they always failed because plastic loses strength at low temps. Repurpose stainless steel thermos cup or something stronger never use glass for HHO and add basic fail safes if you don't feel explaining to the ER nurse how you ended up with such a large chunk embedded into your ...... and the number of times you will be ask now how did .... not fun justasayen

[@lancemenke2728]

p.s. back flow/flash is very important !. good ones that actually function some stainless wool stuffed in a tube is a fail to sum it up

[@GUNVALKERIE]

Have you tried micro'torching IRON or STEEL about one inch thick? TUNGSTEN seems to be a more resistant metal... ALSO you could jerry-rig multiple micro'torches at a single point for maximum results... no different than the "archimedes invention" of putting multiple beams of light onto a single point

[@noahhastings6145]

"The Home of the Sombrero Showdown" demolished "The Homeless Despot" You and AvE should make babies. Babies made of metal.

[@bobgrant-beer3020]

Great stuff mate. Could you use Brass or Copper nuts,bolts and washers on the terminals on the reaction vessel? To lower the resistance maybe. Replace the top cap with Tufnell ( it might be called by a different name U.S) it's got good thermal and electrical insulation properties. Just a thought. Take Care Mate.

[@BRP42]

“It’s gassier than me on taco Tuesday!” Best line of the week! ❤️❤️❤️

[@ElementalMaker]

Glad to provide a good chuckle!

[@Mr.Unacceptable]

Could you add a one way check valve after the arrester and feed it into a thick balloon to create pressure? Or is this dangerous in a way I'm not seeing?

[@ElementalMaker]

I know pressuring hho gas cab be quite dangerous, but the pressure to fill a balloon should be no issue. I'll give it a go for sure!

[@Z-Ack]

Wonder how good of a brazing torch that would make.. But in regards to the pvc melting if you take apart a hair drier you can use that "x" mylar coated non conductive insulator as a gasket between the contacts and pvc...

[@Enjoymentboy]

Looks like the threaded rod should be much longer...like 2" longer and bent outwards away from each other at a 90° angle. Use a larger\thicker copper connection with double nuts to clamp to the threaded rod. The bulk of the heat will usually be at the connection point and keeping that point further away from the plastic cap will help prevent it from melting. Minimising any additional resistance at this point will help. I'd suggest brazing a thick copper bar to the threaded rod. A hole drilled into the end of the copper bar will give you a solid point to use a heavy gauge bolt and ring terminal to connect the heavy gauge wire from the power supply. At 60 amps I'd go at least 8AWG. When you're thinking about connecting the power supply to the threaded rods think along the terms of a car battery to the battery cables. Heavy gauge wire and thick terminals...lots of mass to absorb and then dissipate heat.

[@ElementalMaker]

Yeah I need to get longer all thread, but this was all the local hardware store had in stock when I was building the unit. I am going to try making a copper heatsink similar to how you described.

[@Enjoymentboy]

If it's all possible I would even go as far as increasing the diameter of the all thread by at least 1/8". Again...mass is your friend here. A piece of 1/2" copper pipe hammered flat would make a decent bar. Obviously something solid would be better but 1/2" copper pipe has a lot of mass and it can handle a helleva lot of current. I assure you. ;)

[@sickstringbender1364]

Must use materials that have low impedance like copper or lead. Probably should solder the connections also.

[@franktedder1236]

So instead of PVC, what else could you use to build the generator body?

[@ElementalMaker]

Anything that holds liquid and is air tight. I wouldn't recommend glass though for obvious reasons.

[@fss1704]

hey, i have some pretty suggestion, why don't you put some 4 or 5 neutral plates between electrodes and use 12v? isolating the sides of the plates to increase efficiency, you just need 1.4v to make hydrogen. The efficiency of the 0.7v dropout diode on the 5v power supply sucks and the current sucks too, running them with neutral plates on 12v gives a lot of performance.

[@fss1704]

also you can solvd the connection problem by taking a high current reposition energy plug and put the metal leads trough the lid, fixate everything with epoxy and screwing your wire trough the reposition plug, you know the kind you can buy to substitute for a cut power cable that have small metal pins with a screw you can put your cable in.... or a power switch with the same connector...

[@CSGATI]

Double connection on the PVC 2 wire ends clean all oxidation off use grease to keep oxygen off.

[@jeetenzhurlollz8387]

do sapphire..it does not need chromium...iron titanium aluminium oxide some copper sulphate or copper oxide?

[@Sport--willow]

In order to get the production up to where you want, you will need to increase voltage up to 30 to 50 thousand volts without the amperage. With higher voltage and lower amperage you'll be able to run straight water along with eliminating your overheating problem.

[@azurplex]

Sorry, no, that's not how it works. Think of Volts as potential, the Amperage does the work. Higher Volts will just push more Amps through. Just a hundred Volts would make that melt and explode quite fast with a spray of caustic flesh dissolving solution everywhere.

[@Sport--willow]

@@azurplex I definitely hear ya and agree with you that amps is what does the work. Without it nothing electrical would work, but here's the part that blew my mind when a person, who I will never and can never identify, showed me how volts minus amps dislodged the oxygen and hydrogen molecules of water at a very controllable rate. The contraption he called a fuel cell had low DC voltage fed to a coil and distributor from a chevy v8 motor that was mounted on a stand. From the distributor had contected some kind of wiring setup to the container with tubing inside of tubing. When he turned the thing on you could watch as the bubbles came out of each of the sets of tubes. The more volts from 6vdc up to 12vdc and the more rpms he added to the distributor rotation drive the more gases were released and faster. (I myself am still trying to wrap my thoughts and understanding around it) He said he only turned it up to about half power and speed but from what I seen, the entire container of straight rain water he had turned from clear to white. He said that he can run anything on his property with it. No! I wouldn't quite believe it myself, but I watched him turn that thing on and seen watch it does and still can hardly believe it.

[@WineScrounger]

For a meatier power supply and AC, how about a welding transformer?

[@Kizmox]

Simple fix for melting terminal posts: Do not clamp your cable lug connections on plastic! Make a feed through metal bushing to carry the clamping force through the plastic. Your current setup will fail every time the plastic gets even warm-ish.

[@ElementalMaker]

I believe that's what I will end up doing. Very good idea

[@stumask]

you need to use a PWM pulse width modulator

[@matermangros]

Use it for soldering and brazing...everything from silver and gold to brass platinum etc....Rio Grande sells these torch units for 3-8 k...last time I checked...manufacturing these for$500-700 ea. would be a tidy profit also....😏

[@TheGregstorm]

Where'd you find that cool mat?

[@Gaslightingnarcissist]

you need to design a cell using neutral plates to bring your amperage and heat down. the most hho is generated with 1.2v per plate with your amperage being measured in mA.

[@ChristmasEve777]

Low voltage / high current isn't a good idea. It's best to make several electrolytic cells and stack them in series. So instead of 45A, for example, 3 cells in series could draw 15A at 15V instead of 45A at 5V and they both produce the same amount of hydrogen. You wouldn't have any of the heat issues. I know, I know... It would be a more complex setup and believe me, I know that sucks.

[@Tallisman1000]

I’d like to see if you can make carbon obtain ferrous properties after heating it with HHO gases... I heard it is attracted to a magnet afterwards!!!

[@JasonVladimir]

Cool stuff!

[@romangal3693]

Would using a 12v car battery be to much

[@AtlasReburdened]

I believe "fuel stock" is the phrase you're looking for. Water is your fuel stock.

[@ElementalMaker]

Well said. Had a brain fart there

[@AtlasReburdened]

No worries, I'm one of "those" people, but I try to be helpful with my curse. lol

[@mrbrian1969]

It's more like a working medium as far as I can see

[@AtlasReburdened]

Mrbrian1969 Water is the working medium in vapor blasting, water jet cutting, water filled heat pipes, etc. etc. In those cases the water is water throughout the process. In this case, it's broken down into a mixture of two elemental gases, one of which becomes the fuel, thusly water is the stock from which the fuel is derived, the so called fuel stock. I believe the working medium here is electrochemical potential.

[@mrbrian1969]

Okay yeah, hard to argue with that logic

[@rhenway]

You can get that plug in brass, and with some Teflon plugs you should have your problems solved.

[@landroveraddict2457]

Here's an idea I've been mulling, could this be used as a water desalination system. The by product of the burn is H2o so if the heat was used to turn a turbine that generated the electricity which was then used to mitigate some of the power drawn from the PSU. Could it generate enough power to make it more efficient than conventional desalination system of a similar size. You do the math I'll run the kickstarter campaign. On a separate note straight HHO will produce an oxidising flame which should be considered when heating compounds.

[@WineScrounger]

Land Rover Addict some of the commercial ones have a bubbler to entrain acetone or alcohol, it drops the flame temp and offsets the oxidising tendency of the HHO flame.