CV joint axle rebuild AAR3300i. Audi/VW

[@forgive-po2tu]

brilliant how to video! very clear instructions and very helpful! thank you! 🖒

[@pnswg01]

Thanks...

[@cjstubejackofalltrade1551]

My mechanic did not clean the old grease. He put the new one on top. Top video. Thanks man.

[@pnswg01]

Thanks for watching. All joint kit come with new grease. If the joint or protective boot was damage, the grease is no good and should be changed. Prevent is better than cure (phrase or figure of speech)

[@porceder]

Crazy not to clean out before new grease. Grease wears out & becomes contaminated. Also, different grease brands may not be chemically compatible. Saved 15 minutes - not worth the risk to high precision joints & balls. Another good reason to do in correctly yourself.

[@DevineDigital]

This video is three years old, but the best proper way I’ve seen to remove a CV joint without seeing someone cut it off for no reason.

[@innocentoriri4761]

I have particularly watched lots of videos on KZbin and your video stands out. It was well illustrated and detailed. well done

[@pnswg01]

Thanks for watching...

[@ardvark84]

Just came back from the mechanic, had the CV joints replaced complete with the axels so I thought let's see how it's build. Couldn't find any easy or obvious way to get it all apart so I went medieval on it with the grinder. I felt really stupid after that when I realized all it needed was a punch... I feel really stupid right now wathing your video. But this makes me think about how reliable are our cars. I mean if you want a testimony of the precision and the quality of the materials just find yourself an old CV joint and look what's inside. I replaced mine after 300 k kilometers, that's quite a lenghty trip for such a small parts made up from a few balls and bearings and this is all that takes all your clutch violence. Every time you trying to join the traffic quickly with your front wheels turned those little joints work at their best to propell you and when they start to make that noise after a couple hundred tousand kilometers you say what kind of a shitty design is that? It's a amazing design!

[@leffe9941]

Excellent video! Since I scrolled through certain parts of the video I don´t know if you mentioned how important it is to keep the parts clean when assembling them, but watching you do this I think it is fairly obvious to all! Well done Sir!

[@pnswg01]

Thanks

[@Iaapwm]

Very helpful tutorial. A great overview of what is involved. Much appreciated from Lismore NSW Australia

[@pnswg01]

Thanks for watching. I never saw this comment. One year later.

[@gplusgplus2286]

I never had a problem using SKF replacement parts, its a good brand.

[@ylepierre9452]

Cool content man! yesterday i bought the inner axial kit. this is a treasure for me :D

[@pnswg01]

Thanks for watching.

[@Charles_Mulberry_7977]

Excellent explanation. My 2003 Passat Wagon 1.8T is very similar.

[@pnswg01]

Thanks for you honest opinion and thanks for watching.

[@SuperEthel]

fantastic how to video and good demonstration and explanation .thank you very helpful

[@pnswg01]

Thank you for watching.

[@charlesdavis5803]

Did that cute baby help you? lol, adorable! I will add this to my how to library, Mr. Neil. Thank you.

[@pnswg01]

LOL. She always wanna be outside with me.

[@mattmatt591]

Thanks Audi!!! What a pain in the ass!?!?!?! Wtf? Thanks for the tutorial though guy.

[@pnswg01]

Thanks for watching. Rebuilding rear brake caliper video coming soon...

[@armanosman216]

Great video very comprehensive. Thank you!

[@snoke2007]

good job.. damn vw, they have special tools for everything.

[@pnswg01]

Yep. Some of them you can make at home.

[@davidgruen7423]

Thanks pal, I was about to give the crap up until I saw your video, that press on the bolt through the hole where the axle bolt goes part is just brilliant, I used brass hammer, dead blow, brass drift with sledgehammer, none of them worked, I don’t understand why the repair manual says using plastic hammer, there is no way it will come out.

[@pnswg01]

David Gruen Yeah that work too. Thanks for watching!

[@davidgruen7423]

Patrick Neil but it didn’t in this case, I guess some of the shaft but mine in particular is just not gonna happen, the dead blow’s face is completely gone and the joint is still on the shaft, I was about to quit until I saw your video.

[@davidgruen7423]

Patrick Neil say i wonder, what is you turn the axle bolt all the way in and still keep turning, will that push the joint out too?

[@pnswg01]

According to the service manual "that is what you suppose to do". I tried that and it didn't work. All it did was damage the threads in my good reusable joint. I guess if your joint is already damage and cannot be salvage, then you can try that. There is a tool that can be use to pop the outer joint off while the axle is still in the car. I will make a video using it some day. I have this tool but never get a chance to use it since I only work on my own cars...and none of them currently need any axle service.

For solid drive shafts, place a 1/4 10mm socket into the outer cv joint bolt hole. Secure the shaft, then screw in the cv bolt. This will force off the joint off the drive shaft clip. So easy, quick and works every time. For hollow shaft use a solid bolt shaft just smaller than the cv bolt hole. Then screw in cv bolt and repeat. You can do this with the shaft still in the car.

[@markduquette9335]

Excellent video. Quick question that I hope you can help with. I replaced the outer CV boot on my 2015 A4. To get it out I removed the two inner bolts on the upper control arms. Living in the Northeast there was no way I was going to get the single outer bolt out without causing major damage. Now at final assembly I am two inches away from the bolt holes on the upper control arms. Is it possible that the inner cv joint disengaged from the tripod? I hope you can help.

[@landyrover4]

To remove the tripod bearing from housing use a dremel with a burr tool to remove material at the top where the manufacturer crimped the ends slightly. It then just pops out.

[@pnswg01]

The axle in this video is AAR3300i. It has a sealed housing. There is no way to get the tripple roller out other than pulling. VW make a tool for that purpose. The tool work like a slide hammer to pull it out. No other way. The tripple roller axle you are talking about is the one with the open housing.

[@SelyoDz]

Great video 👍

[@ClintCompton1]

Excellent video Patrick.

[@pnswg01]

Clint Compton Thanks.

[@ninjak2647]

Hey @Patrick Neal, at 20:40 in the video. The cir-clip you are putting on the outer end of the shaft; my stock Audi axle doesn’t have a groove for it. Just the metal lip where that part stops but, no groove. Is that normal? Should I just push the clip all the way to the edge?

[@pnswg01]

I am not sure what model axle you have but, the first cir-clip prevent the joint from moving inwards and the outer one prevent it from popping off. You don't want it move in either direction. Make sure it is a genuine VAG axle. If the inner area has a flat area similar to a built on cir clip, then I guess that would be ok, as long as the joint cannot move inwards, or outwards. THIS IS JUST AN OPINION, I WILL NOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT OCCUR... The axle shown in the video is model AAR3300i. I don't do like other channels on KZbin that come with vague title. They list their videos with title such as "How to change clutch on your car", then show you a Toyota Corolla with lots of space in the engine bay. The steps will not be the same for every car. If the axle model is the same as shown here and does not have the inner cir-clip, then it is not genuine and possible not authorize by Audi. Note that the model number will not be listed on the axle anywhere, only Audi part number.

[@ninjak2647]

Patrick Neil Thanks for the detailed response. I did find that my axle has a large enough lip to hold it and no cir-clip is used. I’ve already completed the job as of last night and it’s running smooth again!

[@mosamalatji3815]

You're video is excellent and helpfull. I have a question my CV Joint shaft comes out of the out CV even after I put it back to the wheel again. What could be the problem?

[@pnswg01]

The circlip that suppose to lock the joint to the shaft maybe damage or you didn't press it far enough so it lands into the groove.

[@porceder]

Best practice to replace with a new clip. Normally comes in the better kits.

[@mikaeltulloch-reid7065]

outstanding

[@pnswg01]

Thanks for watching.

[@davidgruen7423]

Say question, despite that Myler freaked up the tightness part that circlip should still hold the joint in place right?

[@JBattler]

Pretty good, but no info about which way the out joint cage goes back in. when I took it apart it was covered in grease and I didn't notice which way it was in. One side has a bevel and one doesn't. I think the bevel goes to the inside (towards centre of car), but not 100% sure and can't find that info anywhere. Anyone know? I have a 2005 TDI wagon. Thanks

[@pnswg01]

I upload a video for you. Check it out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qojImYmorsZpi80

[@avinaashjagan9302]

What is the articulation angle of this cv joint? What cars use cv joints of articulation angle greater than 40 degrees?

[@pnswg01]

Not sure of the angle. The c5 A6 Allroad uses this axle. The ride height is adjustable so it need to flex far

[@nilus1955]

What would you do if the outer CV just won't come off? I have applied up to 2 tons of hydraulic pressure so far, but nothing happens. What do I do, just continue pressing until something happens...?

[@pnswg01]

I cannot say what to do (in case you get hurt or something). Make sure that the bolt is pushing on the shaft. Some of them can be touch. I had one like that before. Actually more than one. I basically just get the hearing protection headphone and press-on while watching the pin that is holding the press cross members developing a belly. It separate with a big bang!

[@omercoolbuddy]

What grease to use for triple roller ?

[@davidgruen7423]

I just noticed the pre tensioning that you meant and what I meant were not the same, I meant the use a regular plier to tighten the clamp, when you meant setting up the clamp.

[@pnswg01]

David Gruen If the tool do both pre-tentioning and final compression (crushing the ear) then I'll definitely get one. (That would make the whole process easier)

[@nunocabrita9]

Hi Patrick, you said at the end of the video that are some inner joints that don’t need to be pressed. How can I know that in advance? My car is a 2011 Vw sharan 2.0 dsg.Do you know if that’s the case? Thanks

[@pnswg01]

The Sharan does not come to the US so I am not familar with it. The axle model AAR3300i is normally use in the Audi Allroad. It is design to stretch up and down due to the variable ride height of the suspension.

[@scrapsteenlifeintheforks1943]

Do you need a press to reinstall the triple roller? Is there another way?

[@pnswg01]

Sorry I did not see this comment until now. 2 months later. NO you don't need a press, just hammer is back in.

[@x-man4702]

Great video! Thanks for posting.

[@christianbjorklund8431]

King👌 video

[@ДмитрийХацкевич-ф3ш]

do not need to complicate things! just screw the bolt to the stop with a little effort. and it will be removed without a jack

[@neilg3364]

You can just gun the old bolt back in, that'll force it past the circlip

[@pnswg01]

I know. That is the repair manual method, they even have a tool for it. For hard to remove axles, this sometime strip the threads and make the joint useless. (Happen to me) It took 12 tons of force to remove that joint. You can also hammer it off. I just use the method that work all the time with no damage. Thanks for watching.

[@nzrestoration9486]

Really good video, thank you.

[@pnswg01]

Thanks for watching.

[@glenbjack]

touche' fellow youtuber, touche'!!

[@markhahn107]

Well done video.

[@TheRebuilt1]

respect

[@keepthinking2666]

I have the same issue the after market is no where close to being as good

[@porceder]

Brand of parts is important. VW original is most often Lobro / GKN; supplier to VW / Porsche since about 1966. Precision joints & excellent boots. Cheap brands too high risk to save so few $'s for a dirty job to redo.

[@larrypearce3607]

bit long winded way of doing it. couple of good taps on back of the joint with a hammer and it pops right off

[@Ivan-hx7cc]

Hey man where did you buy the boots?

[@pnswg01]

FCP Euro

[@nick_santini]

What is the name of the pliers used to 19:07?

[@pnswg01]

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SREPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517194123&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ear+clamp+pliers

[@scrapsteenlifeintheforks1943]

I already fixed it and sold the car

[@BeeShopcs]

what you did for the inner joint totally wrong

[@pnswg01]

If you gonna say what I did was wrong without any explanation then your way is wrong.

[@BeeShopcs]

@@pnswg01 Thank you for your reply, To remove the inner joint no need to press, because has little stopper at the end, Remove the boot, push the housing joint back, then remove the 3 Bearings , then you can pull out the housing, then remove the clip, with puller you can pull out the 3 joint. From the axle, that is alll no need to press because you have damage the little notch.

[@pnswg01]

@@BeeShopcs The axle in the video is AAR3300i. There is no way to get the tripple roller out of the housing other than pulling. That is why VW make a special tool to remove it. It look similar to a slide hammer. The housing is sealed. You cannot gain access to the rollers. You must be talking about the model used in the Passat. In the VW group there are 3 types of axels, 2 of them use tripple rollers in the inner joint. One open, one sealed. This is the sealed model. I did not press it out, I pull it out. The hydraulic cylinder attached to the shop press, pull, NOT push. The outter joint was separated by pushing on the shaft. The inner joint was separated by pulling on the shaft.

[@BeeShopcs]

@@pnswg01 it’s sealed from back, yes no way to remove, my bad and you are correct. In this case. Thank you for your feedback.