Trouble shooting TD5 Perfromance MAF problems

[@WildBushGrit]

I'm blown away by the quality of your content. We all have lot to learn from you, and not just mechanic, but teaching and delivery of information with clarity. Fantastic channel!

[@herbertmasing]

As always, wonderful delivery of information for a beginner like myself and a great production value:))

[@D3Sshooter]

txs for the comment, my pleasure

[@julienchahine7601]

Thank you for the presentation and Greetings from Paris ! I have a defender TD5 year 2003. If I up-shift quickly with high RPM from 1st to 2d, or 2d to 3d, I feel a crunch/grind in my hand (not so loud to hear it in the vehicle, I can just feel it with my hand). If I leave the RPM/rev normal, and leave a 1 second pause on Neutral between these gears, all is fine. No crunch when downshifting. The gearbox runs with new MTF94 oil. Is this a normal behavior for a R380 ? Are we supposed to UP shift slowly with these gearboxes, losing momentum ? Losing momentum is not an issue on flat road, but annoying climbing a slope. Many thanks for your help and feedback ! Julien

[@alexwilliamson1441]

This is great - thanks for putting this up!

[@D3Sshooter]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@garviere]

FYI Everyone. If you have come across this video when trying to solve a lack of power in a Discovery 2 with a TD5 engine. The same test of disconnecting the MAF power connection may result in a noticeable improved performance at around town speeds though still lacking power on the motorway - struggling to get over 70mph on the flat and “bogging out” when going up hill. This is still a clear indication that your MAF sensor is faulty and giving misinformation to the ECU. The same may be true on Defenders in some cases as it might depend on which of the two sensors is faulty or how dirty they are or something. Not really sure, but just don’t be confused if when you disconnect the power supply performance improves rather than stays the same. Hope this helps. Guy

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@jjt1093]

Great Video Time to test mine, had some performance issues very lazy at around 90km/hr seems balless after that. Keep getting air flow circuit fault

[@jjt1093]

Mine is also reading with only ignition on 11.90, is that ok or wiring issue?

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, you might want to measure it at both the MAF sensor but also at the ECU entry point.... many ECU's suffer from Oil creeping up the cable tree ( coming from the injection harness) and entering the ECU... result lots of wrong readings

[@rodillo]

Thanks for your video, very well explained, I congratulate you. My problem is that I have an on-board computer in my defender td5 to obtain data from the vehicle in real time. I always thought that this car since I bought it was that rough and slow. Since I saw that the MAF reading was 0 on my on-board computer, I began to suspect that it was broken. The fact is that the heating wires for some strange reason have melted. Thanks to your video I have been able to diagnose it and I have already bought one on Aliexpress for € 14. by the way, do you know any Nanocom alternative to be able to read the faults of my ECU? Thanks a lot!!.

[@D3Sshooter]

My pleasure, besides the nanacom, any pro OBD2 reader with an LR dbase on it might work , but expensive

[@martijnvanbeek1686]

Nice video, how do I know that what the data logger shows is the correct value or is the simple fact that there is a signal enough. The problem I have is that the MAF sensor seems to behave normal. Stationairy 1.9V rising to about 3.5V. But the car has no performance at low RPM. But the car preforms very good with the MAF disconnected. Rgds, Martijn

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments, you might have an issue with cabling into the ECU

[@michaelbirchall2247]

This helped, thank you!

[@jeroensmurf]

Thanks! I'm a happy new owner of a 2005 defender TD5 and just begun to log data from the nano com. I have a few things that I find a bit strange after seeing your data :- Max turbo is 202 KPA. Should be 220? - Max Air flow is 350-400 @ 3000rpm. Should be max 600? - EGR data is sometimes 0.0 at some rides. Sometimes I do see data. Suspicious?

[@D3Sshooter]

That is indeed a bit odd, are you sure you have no logged events/errors...that keeps the ecu occupied.. Note that the read-out is a low priority for the ecu...for the Nano.com... Other events take priority

[@jeroensmurf]

@@D3Sshooter Thanks for your help. Only logged errors on ABS/AIRCO (not fitted) and MIL lamp & Glow plug.Clear them and try again? Engine runs very smooth at times and very rough at times. Rough especially when warm after 30 min. drive. Coolant temp 90-93.

[@D3Sshooter]

@@jeroensmurf don't worry about the airco/// Mil lamp is not good and glow plug, of course those can be old. Just clear and see if they come back. You might have a fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump issue.... does you fuel pump makes a wining noise ? The fuel pressure regulator sits at the left at the end of the engine block and gets a lot of heat.( when standing in the front). You might want to check the ECU connectors , and see if there is no oil on the cable/connector as that is a common problem , oil creeps through the cabling if you have a poor /leaking injector harness and that causes all kind of wrong readings on sensors for the ECU. If its to late then the ECU has oil inside and then its replacing the ECU. But you are not that far yet.....

[@jeroensmurf]

@@D3Sshooter Faults cleared and not coming back :-) The Fuel pump is buzzing but only slightly, I know how a (really) bad one sounds. Only buzzing when glow plugs are warming up. When the engine / fuel is warm I hardly hear it at all at restarting the engine. ECU clean. Fuel temp seems OK at 70 degrees (?). Did another drive and same experience. EGR modulator% and inlet % give readings. But on the way back after a little pause and restarting the engine with a warm engine they both stayed at 0.0. Less power too and more turbo lag. EGR stuck? Or not enough air intake as my airflow won't go over 400.

[@D3Sshooter]

It is possible that EGR valve is stuck or the solenoid acts up that controls the vacuum to the EGR vale. Check the vacuum hoses for the EGR , another approach is to block the vacuum hose to the EGR valve so that it stays close.

[@ScorpioxA1]

My defender td5 sender i baught with the plug pluged out will test if it still work it dont want to go above 80km/h

[@eugene6554]

if the plug is disconnected from the sensor will the vehicle switch off

[@D3Sshooter]

eugene ripepi not on mine. Try it

[@eugene6554]

I disconnected while it was idling .and it has not switched off.

[@jjt1093]

No it will not ! yoy can drive the vehicle without it for a long time, only thing is it goes to a stock map mode so fuel consumption is up but can stil drive no problem, I had an issue in poland before I figured out what it was so I got a tip unplugged it and drove many thousands km's before I was able to get the new one.

[@12kerryman]

Great vid

[@eugene6554]

12 kerryman okay.i tried it it did not switch off

[@VietnamMotorbikeTours]

great info cheers

[@D3Sshooter]

No problem 👍

[@cdchantler]

I had a remap done from storm tuning which bypasses the maf sensor. The guy gets the info from elsewhere (he says it is more reliable)

[@D3Sshooter]

Thanks for the comments

[@daganzdaandere]

a bad start on td5 is the maf damage?

[@D3Sshooter]

I doubt it, most likely a fuel pressure problem... or a worn fuel pump.

[@eugene6554]

The vehicle rides but sluggish.i then switch it off and then on again while driving then i get the speed.when i release the excellerator and step on it again it goes back to sluggish again.The revs are there but speed slowly increases to about 6o mph

[@D3Sshooter]

eugene ripepi best is to measure the voltage on the middle pin MAF. It should never be 0 or 5 volts with an idle running engine. Throthle down and voltage should change. Nirmally sround 3 volts

[@kundanrana1217]

Rpm nidle doesn't stand in 3000 while we press accelater any idea sir.