DA SA Revolver Disassembly and Trigger Job (Small Frame Taurus)

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Күн бұрын

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@EngineersArmory Ай бұрын

I am aware the removal method of the side plate I showed at 03:50 is objectively incorrect. I know better now. Here is a video that I believe concisely shows the correct method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJm4eYmZi8eSjJI

@MrPatrick7777 4 ай бұрын

Wow! Thanks. This covered everything I was curious about. Also extra gratitude for not blasting me with music. Haha.

@Paul_Whaley 2 ай бұрын

So, a fun thing that I found out. The 856 and Roscoe (update of the Model 85 with a lot of 856 guts) uses an entirely different style of mechanism for the rebound spring assembly. Rather than the contained sliding bar with the spring inside, it uses a strut, much like the hammer strut. It has a ball joint that recesses into the back of the trigger, and a circular bracket that acts as a retainer for the strut and spring, and uses a hole in the frame to lock into place. It is a f*cking nightmare to work on. I did trigger work on the two Taurus guns that I've got, and that assembly was a mess. Doesn't help that you also have to shorten Wolff rebound springs to work on the newer-style assembly. I think that Taurus went to this different style as it doesn't require a permanent pin in the frame to keep the rebound spring captive, and can be pulled out. It does make it more of a pain for the end-user to work on the gun though. The rebound assembly in your gun is straight outta the S&W J-Frame, which (in my experiences of doing a lot of work on them), is a much easier gun to work on than the modern Taurus guns. It's an older upload that I'm commenting on, but as always, I appreciate the content.

@EngineersArmory 2 ай бұрын

You have a lot of obscure firearms knowledge and I love hearing it ahaha

@Paul_Whaley 2 ай бұрын

@@EngineersArmory I'm become a reservoir of esoteric gun knowledge. It pays off sometimes, hahaha

@joedoakes8778 7 ай бұрын

Nice video, thank you. Back in the very early '80s, I did essentially the same thing with my Charter Arms Undercover .38. I very gently deburred and lightly polished internal mating surfaces. That’s it, no power tools were used, only fine, hard, India stones. Another thing I did was to dry-fire the heck out of it, several hundred trigger pulls per day for a few weeks (drove the wife nuts). As well, when I was finished, I stored it cocked, thus compressing the hammer and return springs. Hey, an ounce lighter here and there all adds up. Oh, I did smooth the face and gently round the edges of the trigger. In the end, it was still no S&W, but was a heck of a lot smoother and, judging from feel alone, a bit lighter of a trigger pull. A noticeable improvement at the range as well.

@EngineersArmory 7 ай бұрын

Thanks for sharing your experience! It's amazing what some elbow grease and some basic tools can do for a firearms action!

@richerich853 10 ай бұрын

BTW S&W now also uses MIM internals.

@EngineersArmory 10 ай бұрын

Dang, I would expect billet for the prices they charge. MIM internals will work fine and last for the life of the revolver for most people's use cases, but still disappointing on $800-1000+ revolvers.

@richerich853 10 ай бұрын

@@EngineersArmory that's the big outrage from old school S&W fans. The MIM parts have been used by all of the manufacturers for years it's not new tech.. The key is if the parts are properly heat treated, if so MIM parts are fine.. as far as prices everything has gotten more expensive, using MIM helps keep the price down. If they use Billet the price would be even higher.. change can be good or bad, it's up to the manufacturer to make good parts, some do some don't. The ones that don't is the reason MIM parts are frowned upon..

@EngineersArmory 10 ай бұрын

@@richerich853Totally agree, Properly manufactured MIM parts will be just fine.

@peterb8383 6 ай бұрын

Can you give specific details on what tools and techniques are needed when you say “polish”?

@EngineersArmory 6 ай бұрын

When I do work like this I use the following tools: A fine file set, small needle files of varying shape. Otis makes a nice one specific to gunsmithing that has files of the correct angles for dovetail cuts and such. A nice single cut bastard file, #2 is my preference. Some coarse, medium and fine stones. A high quality very fine ceramic stone (somewhere around 3000 grit equivalent). It also has to have very sharp edged for polishing hammer hooks. I got a nice one from Brownell's. A selection of sandpaper - I use 400 to 2000 grit. A dremel tool with cotton buffing wheels and coarse, medium, and fine polishing compounds. Without a dremel tool some cotton polishing cloths and polising compound will work time, just requires some extra effort and elbow grease. In terms of technique, pretty much start coarse and work your way to fine. Depending on the existing finish of the parts you may start with a file or sandpaper or stone. It just depends and that kind of comes with experience. In general coarse to fine I follow the order: files or coarse sand paper (400 or 600 grit) Then coarse and medium stones and medium sand paper (8000-1200 grit) Fine stones and fine sandpaper (1500 grit and finer) Then polishing from there, coarse, medium, and fine compounds all with cotton buffing wheels. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@ChristianGrest 10 ай бұрын

Great video! I think someone else mentioned, bt just tap the handle with a mallet to pop the plate off without the need to pry it. Will minimize chances of a slip and gouge in the finish/metal. Considering picking up one of these just to mess with to see how nice I can make it. Even most your modern Smiths need some help to smooth them out. Definitely will refer back to this video when it comes time to take one of these down. Verysimilar to a smith, but obviously some differences as well.

@EngineersArmory 10 ай бұрын

Yeah I also have a set of nice plastic prying tools that would have been better to take the side plate off with. It's been a while since I've been into a Smith, would be interesting to take them apart side by side and see the similarity and differences. Maybe "exactly the same" wasnt the right choice of words haha. But I am pretty sure Taurus copied smith then went from there? Thanks for watching and commenting!

@ChristianGrest 10 ай бұрын

@@EngineersArmory oh for sure Taurus got their inspiration from Smith! They are very similar for sure. Especially on the outside

@derekrobinson2366 8 ай бұрын

Do I need to take off the entire side plate and grip to remove the cylinder? Or can I just remove that one screw and the entire cylinder itself will come out without needing to disassemble anything else.

@EngineersArmory 8 ай бұрын

I would think you can just take out the one screw that has that little spring and detent. Cylinder crane should come out the front then.

@UnusualHat7 6 ай бұрын

How did you find the quality of the internals overall? Is there a lot of cast parts?

@EngineersArmory 6 ай бұрын

They're fine. Cleaned up decently well. They all appear to be MIM, which if done right and properly post treated should be rodubst enough for most applications.

@randymccalla9995 29 күн бұрын

Your "interface" is called the sear, your " ledges" are called bevels, and your trigger spring "housing" is called the rebound slide.

@EngineersArmory 28 күн бұрын

Cool thanks.

@jmichna1 Жыл бұрын

Dlts, I have the 942M UL and just recently picked up the Model 327... also small frame, but in 327 Federal Magnum... Do you know if there is a suitable hammer spring & trigger return spring for this model? I have searched but without success.

@EngineersArmory Жыл бұрын

I would start here: gallowayprecision.com/reduced-power-spring-kit-for-taurus-856-revolvers This is the spring kit for the 856 which is the 38spl small frame. The hammer spring is too light for rim fire (tried it in mine and got tons of light strikes) but will likely be fine for the 327 center fire. Of course test it will after installation. Hope this helps!

@d.mansfield6315 Жыл бұрын

Trick for removing the side plate, works on S&W everytime. Take out the screws, put side-plate down on a non-mar surface and rap oppostie side a couple of times witha non-marring mallet hammer. No slipping and scarring up the surface or otherwise damaging the parts.

@EngineersArmory Жыл бұрын

That's a good tip thanks for sharing! I did try that on this gun but the side plate was in there too tight so I just pried it out. I would recommend plastic prying tools if going this route. But on a $350 revolver it didn't matter to me.

@d.mansfield6315 Жыл бұрын

You do have a point about price wise and also good advice on using non-metal prying tools. @@EngineersArmory

@gunguy2023-qt2cb Жыл бұрын

I always just hit the grip frame on the same side of the gun that the side plate comes out of with the end of my screwdriver. Works great. May need a bit of thumb pressure when the side plate is close to coming out of the frame so that it doesn’t scratch the frame when it breaks loose.

@d.mansfield6315 Жыл бұрын

I do have to admit that I ran across a few Model 10s that were so gummed up that even with a liberl dose of solvent I had to use a bit of prying. But after it had been off one time the sideplate popped off with a rap to the opposite side.@@gunguy2023-qt2cb

@chrissarno7556 11 ай бұрын

Standard procedure is to remove screws (carefully) and then slightly cant the revolver in your hand to your left, then with wooden dowel, rap upon grip frame until side plate dislodges from frame. To reattach it, you carefully insert the top tab at the top of side plate into its little slot at top of frame, then gently tap again around circumference with same wooden dowel/rubber/plastic hammer until it is properly reseated!

@MikeEnglund-ih1zh Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Great video, This is the only one I've found that shows the captured trigger return spring. Very helpful.

@EngineersArmory Жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.

@GiorgosC-rp5ms Жыл бұрын

pretty cool i thought about doing the same but i waited to put more rounds throught it and after 950 rounds my da trigger is 8.1 pounds and single is at 3 pounds

@EngineersArmory Жыл бұрын

Yeah what I did is just what would happen with more rounds through the gun. Surfaces would essentially polish themselves with use. The reduced power trigger spring made a nice difference though. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@GiorgosC-rp5ms Жыл бұрын

@@EngineersArmory no light strikes with that spring?

@EngineersArmory Жыл бұрын

@@GiorgosC-rp5ms nope. Hammer spring is the only thing that controls the force the primer is hit and I left the hammer spring factory.

@flaco5581 4 ай бұрын

Thanks good video.

@BattleRifles Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video. The current generation of Smiths use MIM as well.

@EngineersArmory Жыл бұрын

Thanks! and thanks for the info. Shame they aren't using billet - but MIM will last just fine in most applications. I assume they must be doing a good deal of fitting to justify the price they charge - if not, that's just simply paying for a name. Their finishes are nicer as well.

@bkcatalog 5 ай бұрын

I just got one of these in and am having consistent light strikes. took it apart and it was dry as a bone inside. Firing pin indents look a touch weak too. Im debating on shimming rhe main spring or trying to adjust firing pin protrusion. Any ideas?

@EngineersArmory 5 ай бұрын

Hmm that's odd. I would make sure it's well lubricated and also make sure the MIM parts don't have and sharp edges or flashing that is hanging up or causing excess friction as they move in the frame. Check the firing pin, transfer bar, and firing pin channel for roughness. Shimming the mainspring should be a last resort. The factory firing pin spring in mine is plenty stiff for all the ammo I have ever shot thru it.

@patrickaherne3598 9 ай бұрын

Using a screwdriver to pop the sideplate off is a great way to spring the sideplate and damage it. A better way is to strike the grip frame against a block of wood and use inertia to pop the sideplate off.

@EngineersArmory 9 ай бұрын

Many people have pointed that out to me in the comments haha. Some more kindly than others. I still don't think prying it off is that bad, but I should have used a plastic prying tool. Nexxt time I take a revolver apart i'll for sure try giving the grip a whack.

@patrickaherne3598 9 ай бұрын

@@EngineersArmory Yeah, I didn't read all of the comments before posting, but it will surely damage S&W J-frames, especially the aluminum ones. It's one of the first things the old S&W armorers would tell us back in the covered wagon days when cops were issued revolvers.

@EngineersArmory 9 ай бұрын

@@patrickaherne3598 It makes sense, especially on an aluminum frame! I wouldn't have pryed it out if it was an aluminum side plate. Good information and now I know!

@gunnshotts9892 Ай бұрын

@@EngineersArmory isn't just the aluminum and its about way more than scratching the finish, if you look at the relation of the side plate to the frame at the top there is a little nubbin that slips into place on the frame. (that's why it only goes back on correctly if you slide the top of the plate in first) if the nubbin gets boogered up (easy to do even on steel) the plate will not fit correctly. this is a hard and fast very old gunsmithing rule on these type of revolvers. its not a choice. just do it the right way.

@My-Nickel 3 ай бұрын

Thank you sir 🙏

@Noneyurbusiness 7 ай бұрын

Yeah I was gonna attempt to do the job on my 605 until I saw the internals. No thank you I’ll destroy the gun

@EngineersArmory 7 ай бұрын

Yeah there are quite a few small parts in there that all need to work together in a specific way. Interesting mechanism for sure!

@gunnshotts9892 Ай бұрын

Dear god man...NEVER ever NEVER pry the side plate with a screwdriver. Tap gently on the frame where the top of the grip rides and it will pop right up and can be removed. prying can damage the side plate and/or frame. Huge no-no.

@EngineersArmory Ай бұрын

You're late to the party man. So many comments on this video telling me this. I know the way I showed in this video is incorrect now. I'm gonna pin a comment and try to add an annotation to the video to fend these off in the future.