Dado using a Stanley No.45

How to cut a dado using a Stanley No.45 combination plane. So easy, quick, virtually dust free, and no motor noise - why would you use a table saw?!
I'll guide you through all you need to know to make standard width dados using a combination plane (I'll be using the Stanley No.45).
My Stanley No.45 Playlist:
• Living with a Stanley ...
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[@snort455]

Well organized tutorial. Presentation style is much appreciated. No obnoxious bumper music. No wasted time.

[@keithkitchin9482]

I wish I could give two likes! So many useful tips for the 45 especially about dragging the plane backwards so the spurs cut first. Thank you so much for this video

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks Keith, glad you found it useful

[@rogerprice4504]

I've just found a Record 405 on Ebay and bought it "just because" I thought it would be fun to try it out. I knew about the simple rabbit from using a Stanley 78 but this series is absolutely the dog's whatsits for explaining so much about a combination plane and all the associated bits of the hand tool/machine. Many thanks

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Roger, have fun with your 405

[@robertbrunston5406]

I ordered a Stanley 45 on eBay! Its just the standard model without the micro adjustable dense, thanks for the demo Mitch.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Hope you enjoy getting to use it

[@GuysShop]

As always Mitch, nice demo. That's the first time I have seen the #45 in use, and the knickers explained. As for your question of using a table saw...

[@mitchwoodwork]

GuysWoodshop Cheers Guy ;)

[@mmd1957]

Useful and informative video, thanks.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Mike

[@jerrytrueblue]

Thanks Mitch..... Knine Minute Knowlwedge! Cheers Jerry Everett Ontario Canada

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Jerry

[@BobMcPike]

Really enjoying this series! Some nice little factoids as well, such as why the kit included a slitting cutter (mentioned in the slitting video). I have a Record 405, sans nickers (end screws) but haven't had any joy in finding a source of spares

[@mitchwoodwork]

BobMcPike Thanks Bob. I believe the spurs (nickers) are the same as for the Stanley 45, 78, etc. They do crop up on eBay, etc. quite often, but Stanley may well still sell them.

[@arnold7156]

nice tool, beautyfuly done , again I learn thans again mitch,

[@mitchwoodwork]

+Arnold Espenberg Cheers Arnold!

[@andyvan5692]

great video, good explanations , esp. for people who don't know about these sort of planes. as a tip using a "shop vac" to clear chips as made; and using a close up on the 'knife' when cutting as well as the shots you did; would illustrate the action of the plane very well - so as to make it clear to us how the plane cuts, as well as the action of the guides/fence.

[@mitchwoodwork]

andy van Cheers Andy, appreciated.

[@smike230966]

Thanks Mitch. Do keep your eye out for one. I see on ebay they are shooting up in value. With regards to the comments of starting your cuts at the far end with small shallow passes it is very true. Just speed up without taking much material and slowly bring the passes towards yourself. Its a bit like a push saw. You don't start at the near side with full length strokes. You will be startled at how little elbow grease it takes. Regards. Mike

[@mitchwoodwork]

+smike230966 It's good to find the technique that works best for you, and makes using the plane more of a pleasure. I'm pretty sure the force distribution and sole alignment employed by different users determines which technique comes easier, and that there really isn't a universal best way.

[@smike230966]

+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD Point taken, and once again thanks for all the encouragement you are giving to many people like myself.Mike

[@LessTalkMoreDelicious]

Wow! You seem more talented than Paul Sellers! 😄 Btw… what’s that wood fence/jig you’re using with that file/rasp? Have a video of it? I’m trying to figure out something similar for my Shinto rasp… to use to square/plum endgrain instead of using a shooting board. Because I’m cheap and work mostly with cheap softwoods and construction-grade 2x4s and Douglas-fir, etc. (and planes aren’t great on softwoods). The Shinto is nice on softwood endgrains tho! ✨

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks. The fence is just a straight piece of mdf (just happens to have a veneer on the face) to guide the plane initially. If you watch my video on saw sharpening you'll see a jig for a file that holds it at ninety degrees to an edge, which might suit your purpose. Watch from about 1m55s kzbin.info/www/bejne/hma8mmB5pNOaj9U

[@LessTalkMoreDelicious]

​@@mitchwoodwork Yeah! I think that's the one! My comment was really made for this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6HLqn16pbOda7c (file fence @ 1:52 of video) Dunno why my comment posted here, might've been confusing. I think I was typing it after I finished that firewood video/series, and it autoplayed into your 'Dado Stanley 45' video and accidentally posted my comment there. Anyways... I love those kinda original ideas! ...like your file/rasp fence, and also your new video on a saw guide using 2 pieces of scrap sandwiched together. Please make more of those kinda vids. I'm trying to figure out some jigs myself... since I work with softwoods and/or am cheap and on a shoestring budget (can't afford miter nor table saws nor belt sanders). I figured out square/plum jigs, and also 45º regular miter jigs... for the Shinto. (using the jig with a try square... kinda like shooting). But, been trying to make a Shinto jig for 45º carcass bevels. That one got me puzzled and is tricky. I'd need a long 45º triangle block, made of wood or metal, in order to clamp the Shinto onto.

[@RGRGJKK]

Pura vida Thanks for sharing how tot use that Stanley 45 plane

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers

[@blmeflmm66]

Nice video once again. You "should" find that if the spurs(he said knickers haha! sorry elementary humor and too many years around soldiers) are nice and sharp, after your initial spur setting drag pulls, lighter, much faster cuts starting with piston like short strokes at the far end and progressing back toward you will produce faster, smoother results. Takes some practice, just like all operations with the 45, but once properly set, you don't have to adjust anything and you can cut beautiful dados very quickly and accurately one after another. I grind one of the spurs on each side a little shorter so I don't have to remove them and so that they are just barely below my blade. That took a while to get right, but makes a world of difference. To me the 45 is a jack of all trades and master of none, but will get the job done. They ARE fun to use though, if challenging. The two most important word when working with 45s: SHARP CUTTERS. REALLY sharp. Oh and two more: SHARP CUTTERS. etc. etc. etc. A semi sharp/factory sharp cutter will make you think the 45 is junk. And is probably why so many are available in like-new condition.

[@mitchwoodwork]

blmeflmm66 Thanks for all the comments on the 45 series. Much appreciated. Some sound advice and tips to try out. Cheers, Mitch

[@blmeflmm66]

Sorry for the redundancy, I've gotten behind and I'm watching them all at once.

[@rickgatewood6442]

Nice series! I haven't used my 45 very much. I was going to use it for a dado this summer and I managed to drop both of the nicker screws. They really bounce and quickly disappear! I haven't tried to get more screws, yet. Knowing Stanley, they are probably a non-standard thread!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Rick Gatewood I've been there, on hands and knees in the sawdust! There seem to be plenty of spurs and screws up for grabs on eBay though. My 45 was missing the adjustable fence locking screw. I went through a big box of odd machine screws with no luck. Then the lightbulb moment - the depth stop screws on the tongue cutters look about the right size. And they were :)Happy woodworking Rick, Mitch

[@rickgatewood6442]

WOmadeOD - Made in Wood with Mitch Peacock I finally solved the spur screw problem. I bought a couple of brass no. 8 screws and ground them down until they fit. Now to try again! Get well!

[@mitchwoodwork]

Good stuff, and thank you

[@fridunanti]

Hi Mitch, I´m keen to see that video about sharping the spurrs. I was looking for it, didn´t find it.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Hi, I hope I can help then kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3LLkn2jq7Z2nLM should see you right 😉

[@MultiWarrior63]

Nice job Mitch

[@mitchwoodwork]

Ken Haygarth Thanks Ken

[@kevinblair2882]

Hi Mitch, this is a wonderful series. I have a Record 050 combination plane which seems close enough to the Stanley 45. I haven't used it much, but I am learning a lot from watching this series and can now see all kinds of possibilities for it. I know that you are going to cover the sharpening of the spurs, but I am curious as to when they should and should not be used? As for the slitting cutter; on the whole, I think the table saw would be my choice. Although, I can picture someone out on a job site with only a few tools; a lot easier to carry the combination plane and with the fence perhaps easier and more accurate than an electric circular saw or a hand rip saw.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Kevin Blair Cheers Kevin. The 050 is similar enough, so keep watching. There are several more videos I can do on the 45, and hopefully I'll pick up some of the optional cutters and soles to cover all the possibilities of the plane.

[@betzaleldaniel]

Nice videos on the 45. Please make a playlist. I didn't find the video you mentioned where you cover sharpening the spurs, only the cutters. Tks

[@mitchwoodwork]

betzaleldaniel Thanks. I though there was one, called Living with a Stanley No.45. I'll check that out, and try and find the spur sharpening. Meantime, only hone the bevelled side of the spurs, to prevent the 'cut' line shifting. Happy woodworking, Mitch

[@betzaleldaniel]

sorry, I do see the playlist now…but didn't notice the video about the spurs… Not sure what you mean about cut line shifting, but I guess you mean not to strengthen the back of the spur?

[@mitchwoodwork]

betzaleldaniel The spurs should score a line that is in line with the outside of the skate. The spurs are the correct thickness to achieve this, but if you keep honing the flat side then they become thinner, and consequently score inside of where they should. By only honing the bevel, they stay the same thickness. Not sure where that video went, if I can find a copy I'll post it up. If not, I'll make a new one.

[@wovada]

А не пора ли станок слелать, а не инструмент менять? Станок для ручной обработки торцов досок - это имеется ввиду!

[@arnold7156]

nice tool, if I could find one not to ex I will buy one . thanks for the demo mitch. pensive

[@mitchwoodwork]

Cheers Arnold, they are a lot of fun to get used to.

[@lionrnnow6030]

great video!!! i was wondering do you find it easier to use the dado plane than a routerplane for dados???

[@mitchwoodwork]

Thanks Lion. I do when the work is more than a few inches long.

[@smike230966]

Hi Mitch, I am very new to your videos and value them tremendously. Bought myself a no45 18 months ago. Totally agree with comment below re sharp cutters. Mine were dull and Considered relisting back on ebay. Tickled up 2 cutters and unbelievable difference. Some cutters were broken ( at the groove for the adjusting collar ) smaller blades especially as they are inherently weaker. Some cutters were missing. Looked on ebay and found a replacement set of both boxes for £30. Bargain! but a little rusty. My tutor showed me his no55 Stanley and I was surprised at how much more versatile it is. twice as many cutting irons. Have you any experience working with one? Any info would be really useful as I found a reasonable one for myself. Not mint collectible, but worn and complete and probably loved in its day.Regards. Mike

[@mitchwoodwork]

Hi Mike, Glad you're enjoying the channel. I don't have any experience of the 55 sadly. I keep my eye out for one, but with no luck yet. I don't have much call for it's additional functions, but admire the engineering of it. You can be sure that if I do lay hands on one then a new series will be born. Cheers, Mitch

[@briangoodwin5986]

I was wondering how to fit the 1/4 inch cutter has it has not got any locating notch like the others have.

[@mitchwoodwork]

It doesn't have a notch as it wouldn't be strong enough. You need to retract the depth adjuster pin so it is above the cutter. You can use the adjuster to advance the cutter normally, but when retracting you invert the plane so that gravity helps the cutter follow the pin, or just push it. Hope that helps.

[@briangoodwin5986]

@@mitchwoodwork thank you so much , i thought there had to be a way or the cutter would be useless, I'll give it a go tomorrow. I prefer to use the plane rather than a router, especially on a thin piece of timber, once again thanks

[@mitchwoodwork]

@@briangoodwin5986 Anytime. I'm with you on not using the router if possible.

[@jalendvenn7990]

Pretty new to hand planes, so this might be a dumb question. But can you cut a dado in any direction in regards to the grain of the wood? Can you go diagonal? Thank you! Very informative video 😁

[@mitchwoodwork]

Great question. Depending on where you are, dados, grooves, or trenches can be run in any directing, however where they are not parallel to straight grain it is useful to engage the spurs or nickers to slice the fibres for a cleaner cut. If using a plough plane without these, then the edges of the groove can be knifed in first.

[@paulhook6894]

I know it’s been a while since I did my CGLI&BICC apprenticeships and the world of Joinery has moved on, but I would have set a depth stop on the outboard side and started at the toe of the dado and cut back to depth with multiple passes. Is there a reason you cut full length from the start?? I know I am just a Joiner and not a designer woodworker so I would like to improve my technique and I love to learn from an expert. Unfortunately I had to earn a living from my hand skill and never managed to impart the level of knowledge found on the internet to the 57 apprentices I have mentored .. poor lads had to put up with me.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Hi Paul. I have no formal woodworking qualifications, being self taught, so you're in a better place to know the taught procedure. As it happens, I soon converted to starting at the toe end after more experience with combination and moulding planes. I started very much using a router for all these tasks, and gradually moved more and more unplugged. Designer woodworker is simply saying that I design my own pieces rather than build from others' plans. No more, no less. I certainly have more to learn than time to learn it 😆

[@thomashanson6607]

There really is a use besides boat anchor? I've been trying to cut a dado for 5 years, no luck yet. I'll try your technique. I think I've been using too much fence.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Sharp cutters really help too. good luck

[@jessjulian9458]

Don't understand why you clear chips after each pass.

[@mitchwoodwork]

Don't worry, you don't have to. Sometimes you'll find they don't clear themselves and pack tight, which can be harder to clear than tackling it more often.