DAMP PROOFING MEMBRANE (TROWEL TALK TUTORIAL)

[@Skott-c2w]

Going for a job Interview at a Damp and rot specialist soon. Been plastering 5 years and haven’t really learnt anything about damp. This video has helped a lot mate cheers 👍

[@Owenpoo]

Great video - I was going to pay someone to do it, but I know how to bond and skim, so Im gonna do it myself. The only extra thing seems to screw the membrane in first.

[@ExtremeShez]

I hope it went well, bud.

[@user-ti9gy5yq1p]

Been dabbing on them for years, never had a problem. Dot goes were fixing is.

[@asim9738]

Great video ! Thank you for sharing this valuable information 👍

[@troweltalk2719]

No problem thanks for watching 👍

[@wicked-witch-of-the-west]

I have chimney salts, ive been advised instead of membrane, to just hack off the render, spray with TG500 then just use SIKA 1 in the mix

[@completepreservation]

Looks like you got a decent finish on it all 👍 The suppliers of membranes state that if a membrane is being used, it has to be installed to a minimum height of 1.5m if no dpc is being installed. Normally if rising damp is an issue still, it will rise higher as there is no evaporation, as a membrane will stop evaporation.

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi Ross, the ground levels were high around the perimeter of the property the alcoves were suffering with penetrating damp caused from a leaking downpipe , the customer had these issues rectified a few months before we came in & the membrane was used just to stop any residual dampness from bleeding through the new plaster I agree about the evaporation although compared to sand & cement systems the membrane at least offers a pocket of air between the new plaster & the brick which is vented to a degree from the bottom . If the membrane were to be used in a tanking situation then a drainage system would be required to remove moisture build up behind the membrane

[@SC-hk6ui]

Hi Ross. I have seen all of your videos too. I think you have a very good point. I need a system like this, and ultimately there is going to be a trade-off. But it is something I can live with, even if it means problems down the line - the sacrifice is probably worth it.

[@bradpower4069]

Helped me alot thanks mate

[@CrazeUK121]

you dont like using gyspum dab adhesive as its holds moisture yet you will bond it out which is effectively a sponge for moisture

[@troweltalk2719]

The bonding coat sits infront of the membrane the drywall adhesive sits behind it in direct contact with the damp brick

[@CrazeUK121]

@@troweltalk2719 dot and dab on the membrane quicker and easier than bonding if you have the depth on the plaster your matching to ofc in most cases we just remove the bottom 300 thats in contact with the floor then membrabe the wall full height and dot and dab full height quicker easier and better finish then feathering in

[@troweltalk2719]

@@CrazeUK121 Good shout that mate thanks this one we were working to the existing plaster some of which down to 6mm but I agree dabbing would be ideal

[@christyb271]

My neighbours house is higher by 0.5m on terraced house party wall looking to find the right system.

[@Solosolokenya]

Just awesome video.

[@weedfreer]

What are the products used here? I have a chimney breast with (we suspect) salts issues towards the base…there are a few issues up top but they’ll be dealt with soon. Thing is, we’ve been quoted £2,400 to have the entire breast and alcove wall to the left tanked and plasterboarded over…for context, that’s slightly less than the cost to have my entire house sprayed for wood worm and a number of joists replaced! £2,400 seems well out of line to me…particularly as the house is already basically stripped back and ready to go. I feel the removal of existing plasterboard and fitting of the membrane would be within my grasp. I would just need to understand the tools and products that’ld be best to use

[@troweltalk2719]

Thanks for watching the product is called PLATON PB2 Damp Proof Membrane 👍

[@weedfreer]

@@troweltalk2719 what are the bolts used to secure to the wall? Also, if I were fitting this myself, what type of drill/bit would I use and would I need to fit the membrane across the wall (rather than using verticle 'stipes' of the sheeting) making sure that the lower layer overlaps the bottom edge of the higher up layer?

[@Gandalf4137]

Excellent video, you have a knack for teaching. Well done. Is it possible to use a liquid waterproofing membrane as a substitute? Thank you.

[@troweltalk2719]

Thank you for your kind words. Unfortunately unlike the membrane the liquid membranes that i am familiar with will not allow any residual damp remaining in the base of the wall to escape so like cement render it becomes trapped inside the wall with risk of it being forced out over time

[@kennetholiver1528]

Hi , brilliant video, I’m not a professional plasterer but need to deal with a damp wall in an old cottage property ( no cavity ) it looks pretty straight forward but I don’t feel confident enough yet , one question is do I have to remove damp plaster and render before applying damp proof membrane or can I fix it straight to the wall ? I’m planning on dot and dab boarding the wall afterwards as I’m not really confident about rendering and plastering ! Would appreciate some clear advice and guidance please ? Thanks for help. 2:27 2:28

[@nannasfeet]

so if it has air pockets behind or a very small cavity , it’s still trapping damp air as the perimeter is sealed and there is no air movement and could possibly cause black mould . Just my thought .

[@troweltalk2719]

The source of damp has to be fixed / eliminated before reinstating any system unless you are tanking a basement for example in which case a drainage system should be installed to carry away moisture build up. Once damp plaster has been stripped the brickwork begins to dry & over a few days you can see it drying. The idea of the membrane is to prevent any residual dampness & salts contained in the base of the wall from reaching the new plaster finish. We do advise to leave the skirting boards/ floor finishes off for a few weeks this allows air to pass under the membrane

[@davidsmith141]

Great video, can I ask what tool do u use to get that plaster off? Thanks.

[@ExtremeShez]

Subscribed, great and useful vid.

[@brimplas1]

Its a comon mis conception that sand and cement traps moisture but it doesnt.... You render a wall, let it dry them spray it with water and it will soak it.......

[@troweltalk2719]

The cement render systems used in traditional dampproofing contain waterproofing chemicals this mixture is what blocks the damp from reaching the plasterwork on the interior

[@HSilver341]

Good info it be great To see into the future if this membrane actually works doesn’t the fixings trap areas again though n u could end up with a series of moisture dots everywhere ?

[@troweltalk2719]

The fixings have a sealing cup also the membrane has a raised bed as shown in the vid essentially the membrane sits off the brickwork. It's important to mention that the source of damp is eliminated.

[@HullOneNineTwo]

Hi mate. Is this sheeting used instead of drilling and injecting dpc cream or as well as? Cheers.

[@wardy2002]

We are having this done to our street house. My question.. Can you drill the membrane so i can fix radiator brackets when job is finished.

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi Pat, Thanks for watching. Yes you can drill into brick. Ensure you seal around the membrane once the screws are in

[@davidjohn3413]

Good video 👍🏼 any idea on how to use this when trying to insulate solid walls? Can this go behind the insulation/batten - won't it squash it? Or use this between battens and put DPC behind battens? Cheers

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi David the most practical way to insulate solid walls & ensure a vapour barrier at the same time is to bond PIR insulated plasterboard to the walls using polyurethane foam adhesive. The foam us moisture impermeable as is the foil back on the boards & so no real need to install a damproof membrane.

[@comewithmetoghana4969]

Can it be use on concrete wall and if yes how do you plaster it ?

[@none-qq9lg]

Which would be better, wet plaster finish as per your video? or dot and bab with plasterboard?

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi, it just depends how much you need to build out the wall, sometimes dabbing means it would come out too far in which case we would wet plaster. Hope this helps

[@SC-hk6ui]

Can these membranes be concrete rendered? I am thinking of white cement with silica sand. Does it need scratch coat?

[@troweltalk2719]

Ive never applied render over the membrane, I imagine if you were to apply a slurry coat over the membrane then apply a scratch coat it should be fine 👍

[@M0SSUP]

Do you still fix every 200mm for dot and dab?

[@bojackplasterman7938]

Hi Stu, just rewatched the video due to a customer complaint, I've always dot and dabbed (20+ times ish) and never had a problem. Last Friday I did a 1 sqm damp area and used bonding on top of the membrane, plenty of plugs, customer sent photos today, its not drying at all? Any ideas? I'm thinking maybe condensation, it's in a corner of a converted cellar

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi Andrew, it's been less than a week applied depending on the thickness of the bonding coat it will take a while to dry because there's no suction. Your relying on good airflow in the room to carry away any moisture in the plaster & a cellar likely doesn't have that much air movement. I would suggest large fan next to the wall on oscillate mode for a couple of days Hope this helps 👍

[@shaunfisher9292]

Just saying, bonding was called carlite bonding once, and was totally unsuitable around any moisture. It does seem strange,but I do love the membrane. Anyway just being positive,great work.

[@garethfraser5211]

What happens to the membrane at floor level, does it get buried in the concrete or just left loose?

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi Gareth it is left loose at the base of the wall

[@garethfraser5211]

@@troweltalk2719 thanks for the reply, could you cut a groove into the floor and fill with cement with sbr mixed in? It's a concrete floor. Then tank around the edgr of the floor

[@craigneilson3964]

Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't you supposed to use renovating plaster on this?

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi Craig renovating plaster would be used direct to brick, since the membrane essentially creates an air gap between the substrate & the plaster there is no need to use a renovating plaster. Hope that helps

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi Craig renovating plaster would be used direct to brick, since the membrane essentially creates an air gap between the substrate & the plaster there is no need to use a renovating plaster. Hope that helps

[@craigneilson3964]

@@troweltalk2719 Thanks, so thistle bonding coat for a scratch and multi finish once dry

[@ThePlasterer]

Great video bruv, I think I'm just too lazy to do the fixings😅

[@troweltalk2719]

😁 We definitely spend more time fixing the thing on the wall than plastering onto it that's for sure Eric! 😩

[@ThePlasterer]

@@troweltalk2719 😅

[@patterdalezipsuzilil]

There doing this next door at moment omg the noise 😆😆😆😆😆

[@joeyjoejoejr.shabadoo6216]

Hey Stu, were can I get me some stilts like yours 🤔

[@troweltalk2719]

Hi Joey, You can order the worktall boots here 👍 www.worktall.co.uk

[@joeyjoejoejr.shabadoo6216]

@@troweltalk2719 thank you Stuart, I'll order them today

[@MrJayceproductions]

Can u use limelight on this.?

[@troweltalk2719]

You can. Although unnecessary unless purely for cosmetic reasons..? limelight is a renovation plaster usually intended to be used as part of a breathable system? I would advise embedding fibreglass mesh into the scratch coat to ensure the material is well bonded onto the membrane.

[@MrJayceproductions]

@@troweltalk2719 It dosen't make sense does it. The whole point of lime plaster is it breaths and let's water out.🤣 🤣 building surveyor at our place has said we have to do it. I can't understand why for the life in me? Its a fairly modern building so not for aesthetics. Mad i can't see anything other than bonding sticking well to that membrane. 🤣 Should be good fun.

[@SC-hk6ui]

@@MrJayceproductions If you allow moisture to penetrate inwards then you will have to put up with the humidity that results.