DANA 44 Disc Brake Conversion Part 1

[@BlindDude]

I miss this guy. The Less Stroud of Bleepin Jeep

[@kevinhornbuckle]

Your little helper really steals the show. My son is now 17 and when he was young as yours is I slowed down and showed him things and honored his desire to help. It really has paid off. He is not going to be a mechanic, but he is competent with tools and has a good work ethic and creative problem solving skills. You are a good dad for keeping your son engaged. Also, I know you know this already, and I don't mean sound bossy: keep that wire wheel out of the reach of your son. It could kill him if he decided to give it a whirl.

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

If you look real close, you'll see the airline was disconnected from the wire wheel. Just promise not to tell my boy that :)

[@UnitCrane514]

Good to see you have your boy involved! He's laughing at the impact wrench so I think you already have him hooked! 😎

[@xmo552]

I love how you built this. I do things exactly the same way. People never believe or they ridicule that I use washers, spacers, and whatever is around to do exactly what I need. And everything's works out A-👌😉 You don't need CAD, CNC, plasma and waterjeting to make something fast, capable, and SAFE. Just make sure your reasoning is right on.

[@Fubbjubbler]

I like the build and I think this will be my new rear brake setup for my mj. if you require a park brake you can use a line lock to hold the pressure into the rear brakes, will hold stronger and never go out of adjustment.

[@ivanku7445]

Hydraulic e-brake kits like the ones used for drifting would allow you to add an e-brake handle right into your rear brake lines and use the calipers themselves as the e-brake.

[@bagelbytes69420]

this is a great idea!

[@cooders71]

A inline micro brake like they used in old bucket trucks. Push the brake down, flip a lever,bang, brakes locked

[@AndrewBrowner]

im not much for safety myself and i dont think E brakes ever get used for their "emergency" purpose much more commonly used for convenience, parking, offroad or wrenching purposes ect but wouldnt having that type of E brake going through the same lines to the same caliper defeat the whole emergency use.. being as most brake issues would be in the line or caliper/ rotor and pads if not maintained at all

[@Wooskii1]

+Andrew Browner I think both are good ideas considering the point most likely is just to pass inspection. Im gonna have to look into the drift e-brake thing as I don't know how practical it would be (I have rear stock drums, but room is really tight for the stock lines). I knew someone that rigged a spring loaded lever, like a foot parking brake, that just held down the brake pedal, and they left him alone for inspection... not sure of the true legality tho.

[@mochar26]

the baby face at 7:29 is priceless! It says "wtf you doing to my jeep!"

[@coachd6100]

Agreed! What a cute kid.

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+Happy Jeeper Thanks! He's a good little helper

[@keithw372]

they sell brackets for dirt track guys from chevy big car calipers, but same idea you are doing , awesome work and idea

[@bearfarmer]

you are going to have a great little helper there! Good info and problem solving!

[@blueelectricfusion]

for a handbrake or ebrake... yes a good idea in hilly country... there is a hydraulic handbrake that can be added inline to current brakes... mist of the ones I have seen are from drift racing crowd but would function the same as the old cable type. thanks for dis vid btw... was gonna do same on my silverado cuz drums wear too fast for me.

[@davedavid8256]

Great video, well thought out and articulated. Maybe consider a manually adjustable proportioning valve and cutter style hand break (hudraulic) to cover the over braking and parking brake issues. Both easily aquired for cheap in the ricer section on ebay.

[@TDONLEY91]

using Ford explorer 95-01 rear brakes with Rubicon spacers are ideal. Grand Cherokee e brake cables bolt on. and you just need a Dremel or an air rotary tool to make the bolt pattern for the bracket line up. the inside of rotor needs to be clearanced also to fit over axle spindle also

[@stankrieger3598]

Just in time I am needing brakes bad. I will be using your info. thanks again

[@thescreenmonkeycorp]

I used 06 f150 rear calipers. made my own brackets, whoa stops like a sports car! I have 87 grand wagoneer.

[@Dino30ish]

You can use a small ball valve setup inline with your rear brake line (mounted in the cab) .. When you depress the pedal , turn the valve to hold the fluid in the rear part of the lines .. Essentially a hydraulic e-brake (this is how mine is set up ) .. Or use something like a line lock (drag racers use them on the front for burn outs ) just apply it to the rear instead ................ Or get a Hydraulic E-brake lever (off ebay , used for drifting ) and plum it inline with your calipers .

[@mackebest1995]

there is calliper that is just e breake that you can get. but they are mostly fully hydro ment for drift cars but you could posibly get one of those on there. so you would have 2 callipers on each side one for e breake and the regular one

[@KU4PC]

Nice vid. Are you putting in longer wheel studs! Mike

[@jesscneal]

Nice out of the box thinking Tyler. You may want to be wary of the master cylinder though. The volume difference from the drum cylinder to the big caliper may give you a really soft pedal. Good vid!

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+Jess Neal When I swapped the 9" into my YJ a few years ago, it already had ford disc brakes on it. I had to drill out my proportioning valve, but the reservoir was big enough to make the rear calipers work fine, and they are BIG ford calipers. I think I'll be alright, but if not, I'll have to figure something out. That's half the fun!

[@workshop_from_nothing]

stick a disc brake and caliper on the transfer case output its only gotta be a small size due to the final drive ratio reducing the force required vs force after the fd gears might need to sort some kind of hydrollic meganical lever to make it work

[@macsogandares8383]

great pair of boots, I've had the same pair forever

[@joshblick]

correct me if I'm wrong but wasn't that a miter box trim blade he was using to cut the steel back of the brake drums? One twitch and pieces are flying lol

[@ashzander2279]

If you had gotten brakes off a 96-98 v8 (5.2 or 5.9L) it should have had a d44 hd aluminum centersection housing and would probably have bolted up. Or did you do that? I'm imagining it came off a d35 zj.

[@sodster68]

Your helper is just the best! :-)

[@Se7enAte]

Is there a trick to putting those anti-rattle clips/springs/retainers for the front calipers? I cannot figure out how to get them on without them coming out of place after I go over a speed bump. Every time they come off I have a super loud clicking noise coming from the brakes. Super annoying, driving me crazy.

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+Se7enAte hmmmm. Not sure what the problem may be. Mine are a pain to get in initially, but seem to stay put. Have you replaced them with new ones or are you reusing the old ones? If you're using the old ones, they may have lost their spring tension and could be slipping out. Also, are you sure you've installed them correctly? Not upside down or anything?

[@Se7enAte]

Tyler Bleepinjeep I'm pretty sure they're on correctly. I did them the way you did in video for Project Tenanus' brake rebuild. They are new and have all their spring tension. They were super difficult so maybe I got the orientation wrong

[@HBRacing13]

When you first stated that you were going to be adding disc to the 44, I was thinking that you would be using the crown vic set up instead since it's more commonly used, using the rubicon retaining plates. What made you decide to go this route instead of using what is readily available will little fab?

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+HBRacing13 "Readily available" is a relative term my friend. I think I posted above, but am an hour and a half from a decent wrecking yard and I had all these other components already on hand. A bolt-up solution would be ideal, but I really want to see if I can make this work with the parts I've already got. This may not be the ideal solution, but I hope it turns out to be A solution. It may be a colossal failure but if so, you guys can learn from my mistakes. :)

[@HBRacing13]

+Tyler Bleepinjeep I had just read your previous post. Yes having a decent junkyard is a key in being able to use parts for fabrication that will or will not work, without paying the permium price. I'm not hating your set up either, in theory is perfect beside the fact you don't have ebrake but most of the time, doing something as this set up, it mostly for one ton axles where everything is overkill built.

[@jenb7681]

they make rear calipers w ebrake cable conection

[@Luckde10]

Tyler sorry if I missed it in an earlier post, but any chance I could get a pattern of that bracket? :)

[@tk429]

Any chance you'd post the cad file for the bracket?

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+Tim Fox Maybe we can offer it as a download from Bleepinjeep.com? Would you be willing to pay a small fee for the file to help Matt with the site?

[@tk429]

+Tyler Bleepinjeep I'd throw a $10 for good clean file i could take to a fab shop.

[@marcussangedal940]

+Tyler Bleepinjeep I'd also be happy to pay a fee for a good file :)

[@blownaway4371]

I'm in need of a copy of that bracket file also! I know it's been a few years, but are you selling just a file or bracket itself too? I'm using a 44 from a 87 Comanche in my 96 Cherokee. But doing a spring UNDER (don't hate) to lower it.. And how bout a review on these since it's been so long.?

[@Braymond141]

You could look into a hydro e brake from eBay or wherever. I know most of them lock into place so you could have a functioning parking brake

[@HellFighter55]

Anyways to do some fabrication on a 1966 Ford Dana 44 High Pinion that has Drum Brakes?

[@quandale8505]

So for my 95 YJ crawler, what rear axle would be better? Stock 35 w/ chromollys or d44? Or some other axle ?

[@RDCards]

Almost a year to date. great vid

[@erichalstead9650]

you could use linelock for a parking break.

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+Eric Halstead I've been researching line locks as well. They're a simple solution, but some states wont pass line locks during inspection either... I'll keep you guys posted as I work it out, but line locks are on the table as a possible solution to my e-brake problem.

[@grndragon2443]

did you want it to be all jeep? if not you could have went out a got a chevy s10 blazer rear disc brakes, they have ebrake setup on them. plus there are thousands of them around. I have pictures if needed.

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+grn dragon No dragon, I'm not hung up on it being ALL Jeep parts, I just have mostly Jeep parts on hand. Are you sure the S10 has the correct flange bolt pattern for the Dana 44? If so, what years of S10? I'd be glad to get bolt on parts if I can find them!

[@grndragon2443]

Tyler Bleepinjeep the '98+ s10 blazer (10 bolt rear. 4 bolt flange) (you can weld, fill the bolt holes that don't match). dics brakes don't always come on the trucks. 2.5inch axle tube. all you really need is 3 bolts to anchor the flange. use a ebrake clevis from a corvette to use your stock cables. simply shorten the stock cable springs to make it work.

[@grndragon2443]

+Tyler Bleepinjeep bolt-on dics brakes. '03+ Sahara, 93+ Izuzu Rodeo, 95+ Explorers also work with pretty minimal modification. or the '80's Crown Vic which needs the bracket setup like you started doing. hope that helps, Brian

[@kuyamojetd]

Hi! I am planning to convert my rear diff drum brakes to a rear disc brakes for my mazda b2200 pickup, any suggestions for the size of the axle shaft?

[@rathf150]

He smiled when he said DEEZ nuts. LOL

[@CrucesNomad1]

You want more brake capacity in the rear to keep the jeep from dipping during a hard braking scenario. Long as it isnt a daily driver you'll be ok. Need a splash plate on there.

[@alexisfranciscogodoygodoy9289]

Gracias amigo 💯

[@aaleexsaalaazaar]

did you try both ZJs ? c clip and non c clip? i think they have different disc mounts and maybe the non c clip are WJs not sure

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+Alex Salazar Did ZJ's ever come with Non C-Clip? ZJ's came out in 93 and I think the Non C-Clip dana 35 was phased out in 1990. I know ZJ's disks should swap right over to C-Clip Dana 35s without issue.

[@aaleexsaalaazaar]

+NickInTimeFilms i know thats what i did on my TJ, non c clip ZJs were the ones with a V8 and towing package and it was a 44.

[@NickInTimeFilms]

+Alex Salazar Ahhhh, hard to come by then. I'll have to look into that, thanks.

[@aaleexsaalaazaar]

Yeah definitely, but definitely WJs have non c clips and maybe it'll fit and those you should be able to find in the junk yard

[@tomd1939]

+NickInTimeFilms You got some good videos too. You'd be a great addition to this channel. But instead of steady videos using a tripod, they could be supplemented with a crap load of cursing. hahaha. it's gotta be hard doing all that work with one hand while holding the camera. but good videos too nick

[@dennisstraight]

some of the zj's have D44 rear diff's. did you check that?

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+Dennis Straight They do, but they don't use standard D44 parts. Jeep had them built a little differently than your everyday 44. That being said, the flange bolt pattern may be the same. I have really limited selection to wrecking yards around here and they don't let you pull your own parts. Really sucks. I have to drive about an hour and a half to get to a decent yard that will let me pull my own parts so I am really trying to make what I already have on hand work.

[@dennisstraight]

That sucks, we have wrecking yards every where there are at least 5 within 15 miles. I own and drive a 98 5.9 ZJ with a D44A the aluminum center section. 4 wheel disk brakes. good luck with the build.

[@v8magnumram]

5:08. DEEZ NUTS. Lol.

[@zainenewcomb754]

do you have to do the floorpan in tetanus? if so please make a video, i need a good way to do myne in a tracker

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+Mega Trick Yes I do have to do the pan. Mines in REALLY bad shape. It'll be down the road a bit, but I have to replace the driver and passenger side completely. Stay tuned because I'll do videos on the whole process.

[@zainenewcomb754]

Sweet i have a 1991 geo tracker i have to do driver pretty much the whole thing

[@mackebest1995]

very nice video

[@samm4048]

My jeep is making a popping noise when I brake at low speeds. Any ideas?

[@Julian-do7bv]

the only bad part about having to much braking power in the back is the rear tires might lock up because the rear end is so light

[@markw365]

Your brake bias is going to be way off. Ford Explorer 8.8 rear disk backing plates with a spacer from JKS with the original retaining plate will give you ebrake and proper biasing. Use ZJ rear rotors. You will have to elongate the backing plate holes towards the center by 1/16-1/8 of an inch, ie a couple minutes with a die grinder. Use the spring out of a 4 wheel disc zj prop valve. There's a write up I did on naxja about 5 years ago, works great.

[@jasonfunderburg4461]

Do a line lock for the rear, should work as an E brake.

[@MrJTime]

Too much braking in the rear of a pickup can be dangerous. You should definitely use a proportioning valve and make sure it's set up right.

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+MrJTime absolutely. See the post above, but I will certainly need to tune the proportioning to get it right.

[@WeBleedGreen1]

could adapt an internal drum behind the rotor but that might be too much of a hassle.

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+daily_wheeler major hassle because you have to use a backing plate with drum brakes. The chances of finding one that would work are pretty slim. I also really hate drum brakes so reinstalling one even for the e-brake just rubs me the wrong way.

[@newsnowtwincities9331]

Just a fyi... since '03, TJs could be had with factory rear disc brakes.

[@pperry814]

you could use a hydraulic line lock for an emergency brake.

[@chefdan87]

Man i couldnt help but worry seeing your child near the grinder, in the back of head i kept saying dont touch it dont touch it. Then at 5:20 i can see that you probably noticed it and detached the air line.

[@alex_ottomano]

I think more brake then you need could definitely be a problem especially with an mj since they're so light in the rear, you don't want to be fish tailing everywhere

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+Alex Ottomano I guess "more brake than I need" was probably a misnomer. I'll have STRONGER brakes than I need, but as long as I get the proportioning correct, I should have no problems with the rear locking up. It will definitely require some tuning, but I'm confident I can get it dialed in. I'll keep you guys posted as the build goes along.

[@alex_ottomano]

+Tyler Bleepinjeep thats true the proportioning valve should do it's job to prevent that

[@TEDDAV64]

Suggestion for parking brake could be a line lock.just my 2 cents

[@tylerbourne2769]

I just got to ask are you veteran

[@fisherman2359]

I really want a project xj. Found a 99 90,xxx for only $2500

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+Fisher Man buy it!

[@27dcx]

You're going to need an adjustable proportioning valve or you'll have way too much braking force in the rear

[@tylerbleepinjeep606]

+27dcx I grabbed the proportioning valve out of the donor ZJ that I think will work. If not, I'll have to source an adjustable one.

[@Le_Comte_de_Monte_Felin]

+Tyler Bleepinjeep Jegs or Summit - can't recall which one I bought mine from. I think I got my e-brake clips from them as well which allows you to use YJ brake cables. (Or was it TJ.... either way, there is a frankenstein method of doing it). On behalf of everyone with crappy ol' Jeep drums.... THANK YOU for this EXCELLENT video subject!

[@rheidtech]

+Dwayne amen to that.

[@1fordguy1]

Why not put a line lock in the brake line or lines. It is easy, cheap and you can lock up as many calipers as you want. You just push brake peddle and pull lock.I did this on my son 8.8 Ranger conversion,

[@jerryjones2215]

I'm getting ready to put a D44 (which is supposedly out of an older Grand Wagoneer) under my XJ and want to do this disc conversion. So you used the FRONT brakes (calipers and rotors) off of an '87 Cherokee/Comanche, correct? I'm a pretty good fabricator, so I feel confident that I can handle the rest.....but it sure would be great if your buddy had the program to cut some more of those brackets for me.....hahaha

[@lelandeggleston1041]

Why not just locate a Dana 44 from an LJ or rubicon?

[@bleepinjeep]

+das hasguns Because I already had this one on hand.

[@TheGilbertsonfamily]

Way more expensive. A lot of TJ guys run those xj 44s because they are more affordable. Even after brackets. I still run the drums too.

[@TDONLEY91]

das hasguns Rubicon axles are shit. the tubes are super thin. I have Ford explorer brakes on my xj Dana 44 which btw is leaf spring unlike a TJ or LJ which is what you need for an xj or MJ

[@GolfWangTweaks]

could just tap into the rear brake lines and put a hydraulic e-brake

[@bleepinjeep]

indeed you could but this would not be an e-brake as if you were to cut a line you would still have no brakes at all.

[@diggindude1]

a caddilac caliper had an e brake

[@richterman3962]

Mine came with disc from the factory

[@xmo552]

On an MJ?

[@MRLIPANBOIKUSTOMS]

Lol that how my son is ....

[@robbievick5203]

i used brakes off a 2000 mustang

[@chriss.3476]

On your YJ? What year? Direct fit? Info please

[@robwilliams9157]

509 haaaa godeem

[@alanack67]

Don't know why anyone would do this, Disk brakes suck, especially in the rear

[@crkerriklein]

many reasons: disc retains axle if you break the axle, mud can clog drums, ease of repair, and less weight on some applications

[@alanack67]

+crkerriklein the brake caliper isn't going to do a very good job holding the wheel on. my axles are full floaters so the axle shaft is bolted in if it breaks

[@crkerriklein]

+Alan Ackaway on full floaters you don't need it for that reason, also on the Dana 44 it has a retaining plate to hold the axle in but on the Dana 35 there is nothing to retain the axle when the c-clipped splined portion breaks off inside differential, still many other reasons to use discs on the rear, usually done for ease of maintenance, no more rusted-up Springs, clips and many other problems inside of a drum, and they cool down much more efficiently as well