Ford Crown Victoria Front Shock Replacement 1998-2002

[@Michael_Lorenson]

Dan's installation guide is spot-on. A 1/4" wrench fits the top of the shock shaft, but you still might need vice grips for more leverage. On one side, I actually had to clamp vice-grips on the threaded shaft itself to get the bottom nut all the way off the top, meaning the threads were ruined. Not a big deal, unless you want to reuse the old shocks. Read on for a thorough explanation of Panther shocks. In my 2001 Lincoln Town Car, I installed a set of four new KYB Gas-a-Just shocks. These were KG5572 (front) and KG5521 (rear), which are the standard-replacement part numbers. While I've been very happy using these affordable KYB monotube, high-pressure Bilstein competitors in a variety of cars over the past ~30 years, in this case the fronts felt very under-damped, and pretty much indistinguishable from the OE shocks. That also happens with Bilstein's standard-valve monotube shocks, BTW. Often, they are just too soft. These days, I don't bother with Bilsteins for my street cars -- I just buy KYBs, which offer comparable valving and performance (IMO) for a fraction of the price. The Bilsteins are rebuildable and more durable for really extreme duty, but I can buy FOUR KYBs for the price of ONE Bilstein. What I didn't realize is that KYB doesn't list their other Panther option -- P71/Taxi replacements -- for the Town Car. But, after my disappointment I dug deeper, and found that they do list KG5458 as the front P71/Taxi replacement for Crown Vic and Grand Marquis. These are directly comparable to Bilstein HDs. For the rear, the P71/Taxi gets the regular KG5572. So I bought a set of KG5458 fronts ($41.68 each from Amazon), and I've just installed them. EVERYTHING else is fresh OEM. So I have all-new front springs, steering components, front/rear control arms, rear air bags (on their highest/firmest setting), and all bushings and joints throughout. I'm using the stock front and rear swaybars. With the P71 KYBs, it's a different car. The front end is firm, planted, well-damped, and well-matched to the rear. Suddenly, I have a Town Car 'Sport'. When I say firm, I do mean sports sedan firm. It's also far better controlled over railroad tracks and potholes, because the tighter damping doesn't allow nearly as much chaotic wheel and tire motion. However, there is a price for all that. In my area, we have have a lot of lumpy-bumpy roads, and the P71 shocks cause a lot more vertical and side-to-side jostling. So, pick your path; extremely soft or very firm. For something in between, adjustable dampers will be required -- at fabulous expense. I'll stick with the P71-spec KYBs, as the advantages outweigh the downsides for me.

[@carmenelmo8650]

Thanks for posting.👍👍 I just put a pair of Gabriel 43140 in the rear of my 01 GM. I may try the taxi shocks for the front

[@Michael_Lorenson]

Great 'How-To', thanks. A note about shock installations: For OE shocks, just screw the bottom nut down until it stops at the bottom of the threads. It's designed as a fool-proof system that results in the correct amount of OE bushing compression. If the thread on the replacement shock goes a lot deeper, stop tightening when the bushing expands to the edge of the washer. If your replacement shocks happen to come with bushings and/or washers that are substantially different from the originals, you can probably re-use the OE washers and install fresh OE bushings. Don't skip the fresh bushings, they make a difference.

[@apalile]

Just replaced my front shocks in my 2001 Lincoln Town Car with the guidance from your video. Using the jack to push shock up was a tremendous help. Thank you!!!

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Glad it helped, thanks for watching

[@ike___love]

@@SirFixAlotAutos@3:43 is there a torque spec for those or just tight as possible with hand strength?

[@ericj7165]

Thank you for the awesome video. This was pretty much dead on for my 01 Grand Marquis. The only thing to note is that the top nut is extremely difficult to take off. In my case I loosened it with the method shown in the video until I could lock a pair vice grips onto the rod under the top washer at which point I switched to a 9/16 short socket.

[@HOTRODRICO]

impact with a bump the first time u go to take it off.... mine came off pretty easy

[@TopGunMan]

I cut the top off with Grinder cutoff wheel

[@hondostone9046]

The nut on top was so rusted ( after 14 years ...it's a 2001 CV ) that it was like being welded on. I used Liquid Wrench spray rust penetrating oil and let it set overnight but still could not get it to budge so I had to use the trusty ol' hack saw. With so little room, I could'nt use the complete hacksaw but had to use just the blade and even then, the room to saw was so minimal, I had to break the blade in 2 so that I could have more room to saw the piston that the nut was rusted on to. It took me 45 minutes for each side. WHEW! If you're determined enough, you can do just about anything I suppose Thanks for the video!

[@Nowen97]

Awesome! Getting ready to install Bilsteins on my 01 Grand Marquis

[@kustomhooligans]

Dan Tsuchiya+ I used my cut off wheel and zipped right through the old top shock bolt. You mentioned not over-torquing the 1/2" lower bolts and you said the exposed thread on top went from 1/2" to 3/4" after torquing the nuts but you never mentioned the torque spec. I'm sure thats why a lot of people come to this video, that's why I'm here. If you have it, maybe add it to the description when you get a chance. Thanks for the video.

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

37 lb-ft is typical for the top center nut torque spec.

[@TopGunMan]

I don't think the rubber should be compressed to 37ftlbs. The locking upper nut might have a torque value like that but I really don't think the lower nut does.

[@Food4Thought66]

So loosen the BOTTOM bolts first, THEN the top bolts? You clamp on to the top of the shock to remove the top bolts right?

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

@VaRaven92 You have to remove the rear wheels and look in from the side, when you have the car jacked up from the rear, you will see the top of the shock when looking in form the side inside the wheel well. It will be located just over the top of the frame rail. You have to reach in with two wrenches to release the locking nut on top and then remove the lower support bolt, the shock will drop out.

[@slipknot5567]

How do you do the springs on these?

[@Mykford1]

I just used my saws-all and cut the nut off. Took 5 minutes each side. Mine were super rusted.

[@hondostone9046]

Myk Ford See my post above....sure wished that I could have fitted a saws-all in there on my 2001 Crown Vic.

[@sysphotography]

Looks like this will be my route. I've been on this all day and the nut just spins in the vise grip.

[@adamcrownvictoriacarrepair7105]

I just put that comment in there also. No matter what I did everything just spun. Total pita... Cut it guys!!!

[@carl15151]

The reality is that the too nut won't unscrew. Especially if it's original Ford shocks. Remove the tire..get a sawsall and cut it off. Chances are the bottom two bolts will but threaded holes end up stripped out. Get 5/16x1-1/2 18 bolts and nuts.

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Yes, others have mentioned the Sawzall or Dremel route especially if you're in a rust-prone area. Thanks for the specs on the bolts.

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Hi slipknot5567, on the front there is a spindle (part that holds the wheel hub) which connects to the lower control arm. You will need to place a jack under the control arm while you separate the spindle from the lower control arm with a pickle fork...then lower the jack and if the shock has already been removed the spring will fall out. Note that this is one of the more dangerous procedures of working on your car, so wear eye protection and gloves or take it to a pro. Good Luck.

[@seanflynn6451]

i have a 2002 Grand Marquis, i really think it could use some shocks it just sways a bit but i figure its a 21 year old car with 128k .so go with the Monroe's ?And i see there is different grades like Heavy Duty and the like? when i try to push down on the fenders both front and rear i dont get the bounce like an old car used to but could i be wrong think it should bounce up n down?

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

If you push down on the fenders and the car comes back up but doesn't bounce afterward (by itself) your shocks are working as they should. When the shocks are bad, the car will continue to bounce (no dampening) after you push down and let it go.

[@TheLolgee]

Why did you need vice grips to remove the bolt on the top? Does it spin with the bolt? And can you remove the nuts with a power tool?

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Yes, it spins with the bolt, just holding it in place, if yours are square you can use a box end or crescent wrench. You can try a power tool like an impact gun which is fast.

[@TheLolgee]

@@SirFixAlotAutos thank you for the info. I'll use this video to replace my front end shocks.

[@al-mubdizahir8704]

When I replaced the shocks on my 2000 p71 I didn't have my jack atanda under my a arms. It was under the car. So that means my shocks are not as compressed as they should be???

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

They can be installed at full extension as well, sounds like you were successful in replacing your shocks.

[@molarguy]

Solid instructions. A+

[@wrathofscorpias]

Does this work the same for MGM ?

[@BigGroovyOg]

Do they have spacers to make your shock a little longer

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Not that I know of....

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Hi Eric, Glad it worked out.

[@carriecrackrock1221]

If I'm changing my lower control arms i can just undo the bottom of the shock and let the spring decompress slowly without fully removing the shock?

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Yeah, that should work

[@jonathanmusser7109]

Thank you! Very helpful

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Glad it helped!

[@SalandFindles]

So like, when I put some locking pliers on my shock stud, it worked for a few turns, then started horribly rounding off. How do I fix this? It's really not wanting to come off there. I fear I've rounded it off too much. I even tried filing it flat as best as I could and using and adjustable wrench.

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Sorry to hear, if you can't lock it into place (larger vice grips) then you might have to resort to sawing or using a Dremel tool to cut it off, obviously a new shock would be in order. Good Luck

[@SalandFindles]

@@SirFixAlotAutos I actually went and bought an angle grinder and some cut-off wheels. Gonna get nasty with it.

[@aera6413]

thanks for the vid. looking forward to putting kyb gas a justs at all 4 corners

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

The spring assembly can stay in the car/suspension, it does not need to be removed. Good Luck

[@tippman2k01]

did you have to take the spring assembly off as well or were you able to just pull the strut out?

[@clydeanddodo1]

It just drops down. No removing anything. Two bolts on the bottom and then the two nuts on top and it falls out.

[@crashgear08]

Dan not sure if you'll see this, my sons 94 Marqui the Locals who had it cut the springs to make it a Low Rider and it finally snapped the Ball Joint. I got that replaced and have new springs BUT I do not seem to be able to compress them ENOUGH. Should I removed the entire swing arm and then Jack it up slowly to compress them? I mean the Car if not going to move with that weight and I could use the floor Jack to compress them allot easier than what I am fighting right now.. This thing has been a NIGHTMARE even with the right tools. The Ball on the Passenger side Burst out in the Lower and it hit the Ground fortunately they were not on the road when it happened. Please advise Thanks,

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

No problem, you must use an internal spring compressor to get that spring out to reinstall it. Don't try and use a jack, as it's unsafe the way you describe it. Try local parts houses like AutoZone or others, they may have one you can rent. They look like this: www.cvpi.org/archives/p71interceptor/suspension/springs/autozone/coilspring/compressor/wsdindex.html Good Luck, Dan

[@crashgear08]

Yes I finally got it to work, the issue was the spring rod was hitting the top mount and stopping it so I had to move it further down.. Cars their NOT a Job their an Adventure LOL..

[@noproofdrifting8443]

Does anyone know what size those bottoms bolts are? I have to get replacements as i bought the car mid replacement and the size i found online was incorrect

[@adamcrownvictoriacarrepair7105]

Cant you just cut the top nut if they are rusted together? When I spin my nut, the whole thing turns....went and got the oscillating 🔧

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

That is a way to go, however, if the bottom nut is also rusted on, there's nothing to hold it from above. If going the Dremel route, you may need to cut below both. Good Luck

[@adamcrownvictoriacarrepair7105]

@@SirFixAlotAutos Agreed, therefore anyone reading this, should make sure your bottom nuts will come loose with ratchet first. 👍

[@DTownsJokr]

Got a link for the shocks? are there rear shocks that match?

[@promisemissippimasschior]

My bottom bolts aren't tighten help

[@adrianspain885]

What size are thr nuts at the bottom of the shocks

[@absolutez3ro295]

What is the best brand recommended for crown Vic shocks ?

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

I've heard KYB's are great, Monroe also works well, gave my car a nice ride before selling it.

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

It's best that you do so, just to make sure it doesn't back out. Another way is to put Loctite on the threads.

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Found them on eBay, look for the yellow body Severe or Heavy Duty. Put in your year, Crown Victoria, Monroe and you will see them. eBay sellers like "wizardautoparts" and "autopartsexp" are reputable.

[@tylermanzella5901]

So what about the spring?

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

You'll have to find some other video on that, fortunately, you can change the shock without changing the spring.

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Vic - my 1999 did not have a rear leveling system and it was a P71 Police Interceptor. It's quite possible that those Crown Vics with a tow package or comfort ride system will have air shocks and you would need to depressurize the system and unhook an air fitting before removing the shocks. Normally, there would be a bleeder within the system where you can depressurize, likely at the main compressor. Sorry, could not be of more help but am unfamiliar with that system.

[@TheMrgabe361]

This is the same process for a 99 town car ?

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Should be similar, you just have to look under the hood, if the shock tower is the same, then it should be similar.

[@kruzelc77]

Great video, thank you.

[@brianhambrick9023]

What size are the bottom bolts?

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

It's been awhile but I used a 1/2" socket to attach the bolts.

[@sherbyturner4601]

did u have to remove the front tires?

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

for this procedure, I was able to leave the wheels and tires on.

[@sherbyturner4601]

Ok thanks everything worked out great...

[@princemarcel]

Great vid. Thank you sir

[@xvrit]

You put that bottom bushing on backwards.

[@matthewdevinb1]

How did the other one come out..... that's literally all I cared about and you skipped it..

[@SirFixAlotAutos]

Matthew Brown The bottom was easy to remove, just two bolts. If you are talking about the right side front, that came out without any issues.

[@indskab]

What's name of the song in the beginning?

[@Newter597]

I'll be missing you , Puff Daddy Version. Originally by the Police, Every breath you take.

[@NOPOSFINEST]

Anyone have the torque spec?

[@dreteyete7305]

Could’ve said the torque specs

[@clydeanddodo1]

If you can comment on youtube then you can look it up on google.