Darkroom Printing Pt5 - Split Toning 101

In today's video I look at basic split toning 101 and specifically toning the print with sepia and selenium.
I talk about the do's and don'ts of split toning with sepia and selenium and see how to make our own sepia toners.
Darkroom Printing Part 1: • Darkroom Printing Part...
Darkroom Printing Part 2: • Darkroom Printing Pt2 ...
Darkroom Printing Part 3: • Darkroom Printing Part...
Darkroom Printing Part 4: • Darkroom Printing Pt4 ...
Darkroom Printing Part 5: • Darkroom Printing Pt5 ...
John
www.pictorialplanet.com

[@larboland5361]

Excellent

[@ChristopherKovacsw0anm]

I love the look of split toning. Have you ever used copper toner to spit tone using selenium or sepia? I also want to thank you for all of your videos. I have made several of your film developers as well as the Fixers you've outline in your videos. It's brought a new life and enjoyment to the photography process.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Thank you for your kind words, Christopher. Interesting idea to do more toning videos.

[@andrewfindlayphoto]

This video brings me back when I used to tone my prints with the selenium. I used to work as a Graphic Reproduction Artist and I used to use ferricyanide everyday, bleaching halftone dots down to remover colour casts in the Repro process. No one told us to use gloves 😲

[@PictorialPlanet]

Ha! I know what you mean!

[@jph364]

Dear John, would you consider making an episode on how to deal with the chemicals after use. Most of them will be harmful to go through the sink, in the old days you could bring some to your photoshop for silver recovery but guess this is no longer the case. It is holding me back to restart developing my own film again (as a start, I have not been in a darkroom in 25 years)

[@PictorialPlanet]

There's a lot of strong opinions on this matter. Let me tell you what I do. I have a sceptic tank. It's a very powerful reducer, so powerful that I can use Sodium hydroxide to unblock drains and cleaning bleach and it doesn't kill the tank, not at all. So all my chemistry goes down into the sceptic and is broken down in there, all except fixer. I store spent fixer until I have a few gallons and then take it to the council waste chemical disposal people. They deal with it professionally.

[@brad6399]

Greetings John, from NW Wisconsin, USA. I just received Tim Rudman's book which I purchased on eBay. Thankyou for your recommendation. I am impressed with this book. Cheers.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Thanks for the note Brad. Yes, very good book!

[@bluzizalright]

A lengthy process to be sure but absolutely worthwhile.

[@PictorialPlanet]

Thank you!

[@jacopotassinari]

This is really a great class, I've been looking for it for a long time, thank you very much. The results are amazing, I'm going to try as soon as my darkroom will be ready. Really amazing!

[@PictorialPlanet]

That's great! Thank you, Jacopo! Good luck with your darkroom.

[@TheCrimsonFlash]

What I find most interesting is how the split grade print looks "meh" compared to the split toned one, yet it looked fantastic compared to the first one with no adjustments. Seems post processing is probably more important than whatever happens in the camera to begin with. Would be interested to see how extensive post processing could potentially save a poorly shot or composed negative.

[@PictorialPlanet]

A poorly shot or composed negative will never make a good print.

[@gabrielresendes8277]

Once again I have learned something new from you. I have never considered spit toning before. On another note: Have you done much work with paper negative? Maybe it could be a future subject. Thanks

[@PictorialPlanet]

Interesting idea for paper negatives. Mmmmmm

[@peterkingsman]

Hi, very much enjoy your videos. They are becoming a go-to in this area for me. Just a question about your video which I couldn't easily find the answer to on Google - what is cooking a print? Thank you,

[@PictorialPlanet]

Thanks for your comment, Peter. Cooking refers to over-developing.

[@klickanalog]

Very interesting; thanks for sharing ! Just wondering if this will work as well with RC Papers ?

[@PictorialPlanet]

Yes, it works with RC paper. Much faster washing times too making it easy to experiment with.

[@grampadoug100]

Hey John, This explains to me how to get more detail in the shadows without seriously effecting the highlights. Very Interesting and an excellent job of explaining. So, do I have this right? One can push the shoulder of the curve out with this technique and chop off the foot by "Flashing", resulting in a shortened curve, increasing detail in the highlites and a toning to flatten the shadow part of the curve. Does that make any sense to you? Glad to see you healthy!!!

[@PictorialPlanet]

Hi Doug! Yes, you have it. Also, using a higher paper grade increases shadow tonality. So, lots of tools for that amazing print! Thank you for being such a gracious supporter of my work 🙏

[@scotthanberg]

Do you ned to fix after sepia? I did a test with selenium first, then sepia. When I tried to fix, the paper got really dark and yellow and dingy, with spots appearing across the print. I did not do as thorough washing as you did. Any idea what happened?

[@PictorialPlanet]

No idea but wash well then do sepia before selenium. Sepia and selenium are archival so no need to fix.

[@spencerelias9946]

How long does the working sepia solution last?

[@PictorialPlanet]

I use for a short time only, about half an hour. It might last longer but I like to freshen it up after that time.

[@johnberry1839]

Hi John thanks for your Chanel very informative, Bath A Metol 6.5g Sodium sulphite 80g Water to 1 liter Bath B Sodium metaborate 12g Water to 1 liter (To make the metaborate use 8.4g borax and 1.8g sodium hydroxide l have liquid Pyro how can you convert the above measurements to liquid Pyro many thanks

[@PictorialPlanet]

Hello John! I don't understand your question. What is liquid pyro and why are you wanting to convert a Thornton's metol 2-bath formula?