3D printing silk filament| how to get silk 3D prints to look the best | 3D printing tips & tricks

[@bronxjamaican8750]

Thank you so much for this. It has turned my printer from a paperweight to a true hobby now. the possibilities seem endless as to what I can do, All thanks to you.

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks for watching!

[@phishmasta]

I got my first 3d printer at the beginning of December and I got some rainbow silk pla so that I could print out some things for my daughter over a month later after so many failed prints I found this video and now I have successfully printed not just the original things for her I have added a bunch of new things to the list THANK YOU SO MUCH! I am forever thankful for you and your video.

[@Darkwingdad]

Wow, so thankful for the great comments! I know when I started 3D printing there were a lot of videos that were almost too over the top for a newb. My goal is to try and help everyone but not try to over complicate things & im really happy to see this video helping. I’m trying to do more & more videos like these & with feedback like this it’s definitely a motivator. So happy it’s helping! Feel free to email pics of your work so I can showcase them & enter you in my subscriber of the month! Happy printing & thank you for the feedback!

[@AndrewAHayes]

Teaching Tech is starting a CAD course, maybe you would like to learn to design your own parts? kzbin.info/www/bejne/jnndgK2ueLZqg7c

[@Supasilvakilla]

What brand is it? I'm using the ttyt 3d and cant get it to stick to my glass bed. I have tried everything

[@Bluntedco.]

what did you do different? did you just buy a filament dehydrater/drybox?

[@phishmasta]

@@Bluntedco. I fiddled with the settings. I started by mirroring DW's setting he gave, then adjusted them up and down until I saw better results.

[@NicRadcliffe]

Just wanted to say thank you. I had gone through 1-2 rolls without a single successful print, determined to figure it out myself. I watched this video and it gave me a starting point for retraction speed and distance. It made an immediate difference. Thank you!!

[@Darkwingdad]

@@NicRadcliffe glad I could help!

[@OmegaSimPilot]

I know this is an older video but I needed to see this! Just started 3D printing about 4 months ago and was printing with normal PLA all day long. Now I am printing with some Giant Arm silk silver and have been having alot of issues you mentioned. Clogging non stop, seeing infill through the walls, stippling on the surface from extrusion issues. Took your settings and basically split them down the middle to create a base profile in Cura that I can tweak. Printing something now with those settings to see how it goes! Thank you!

[@Darkwingdad]

@@OmegaSimPilot make sure to check out part 2 & 3 of my silk videos too!

[@OmegaSimPilot]

@@DarkwingdadThanks! I will watch those too! I didn’t listed to step one about printing towers and paid the price lol I just want for some settings changes and let her go..got back home and filament got stuck in the Bowden on the hot end side and filament spaghettified out the side of my extruder lol this Giant Arm stuff seems to work better I found at no less than 215 on the nozzle. Was trying it around 205-210 and on a new nozzle, it will print 1-2 jobs, then part way through the third it just stops up completely

[@Darkwingdad]

@@OmegaSimPilot do a retraction tower too sometimes you can lessen the distance and still limit stringing and blobs

[@OmegaSimPilot]

@@Darkwingdad Thanks! Learned quite a bit in Part 2 and 3, especially the combing feature in Cura. I have been getting those end blobs when the printer goes to print a new layer which was annoying. Especially since the parts were sort of thin, half curves for the Space X Starship that need tight tolerances to fit together. One side was perfect, then the other side was a mess. So far my retraction distance of 4mm at 45mm/s, 215 on the nozzle is working okay on this print that's going. Its a 15 hours print so we will see how it goes!

[@jardane]

Finally some good answers on silk, I have not seen anyone explain it as well or explain it at all.

[@Darkwingdad]

I’ve got another video on the way that will help even more!

[@mtayseer82]

I keep returning to this video to enhance my prints with silk filament. Thank you for making it.

[@Darkwingdad]

Anytime!

[@Tennasaur]

I had to come back to find your video, but your 3 part series on silk literally saved me from throwing my ankermake into the trash - it was suddenly randomly clogging and I wasted half a roll of silk pla trying to figure out what i was doing wrong. Thank you thank you THANK YOU!

[@Darkwingdad]

Really glad they helped you!

[@misskrissdee]

I got my first printer about 6 months ago. I am a hobbiest, crafter, seller, you name it. I have been wanting a 3d printer for soooo long. Finally dove in. I've got most of the basics down and pretty well dialed in.. But... I was struggling with my first roll of silk. So I put it aside and forgot about it. This video is exactly what I needed, all the fine tuning. Thank you so much for this! 😍

[@Darkwingdad]

Glad it helped! Welcome to 3D printing!

[@Valintone]

Where's this video been my whole 3D printing life?!

[@Darkwingdad]

Lol just wait for part 2, I’ll dig into some advanced settings for both cura & prusa slicer!

[@Valintone]

@@Darkwingdad yes please! Everyone in 3D printing acts annoyed when noobs like myself don't know what every single setting does and yet there's no definitive guides to learn both the parts of the printer, how to adjust/change them, or the same with settings in slicers.

[@DanielECulbertson]

Moly Moses, this video was EXACTLY what I needed! I'm new to 3D printing and was feeling pretty overwhelmed and intimidated by all the print settings in Cura. Even the settings have sub-settings of their own! It's insane! But this video went a long, long way to cutting through that feeling of overwhelm and making me feel like I *can* do this! Your demeanor and presentation of all that information really sets you apart from most of the other 3D printing channels I've seen so far on KZbin. You have a relaxed and friendly vibe, making it feel like I was over at a buddy's house, just hanging out while we talked about this cool new hobby I'm getting myself into. Thanks for everything that you do here! 🙂👍

[@Darkwingdad]

I really thank you for taking the time to watch,absorb & follow up with me on the video. My videos aren’t short which draws people away but the goal is to teach not to just get subs & likes and miss the point of the video. Much more to come & if you ever have a question just ask! Feel free to join my discord for additional support!

[@-AT-WALKER]

7 months later - using one of Cheps profiles?

[@jrobs100]

Man o man. Happened to stumble upon this vid today as i load up silk pla for the first time (first time printer 3 days ago). Print came out flawless. Great info and learned a hella lot.

[@Darkwingdad]

Great to hear! Check out part 2 & part 3 for advanced settings & tips!

[@Woodwinked82]

I am massively new to 3D printing but was keen to masker printing with Silk PLA and this video and your recommendations were so very helpful! thank you

[@MichaelRodriguez-vi3hw]

New to the 3D craft, only been printing for a few weeks, and have been printing with mostly silk. Now that I've found your videos, thanks Arlyn, I can totally up my game. Thank you for your time.

[@Darkwingdad]

Great to hear! Glad this helped!

[@UncleJessy]

Fantastic video! I typically print my silk prints at 60mm/s or 50mm/s but might try dropping it down further. Great info on how to get some really smooth looking prints. Will be trying some of that out

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks jessy! I really think it depends on your machine. On dual z axis or printers like the ender 5 you can bump the speed up due to better stability on the x & y gantry but I always say do what works for you! I know you have plenty of machines to test on! I sent you a message a few weeks back, I’m going to be in NY & wanted to give you some plastic metal to try, let me know! Thanks as always!!

[@messyfishing6536]

got my first roll of silk yesterday. one good print, one bad print. now here I am figuring out I need different settings for silk. Ill be doing some adjustments on a silk profile in cura. Cheers!

[@Darkwingdad]

Good luck, let me know how you make out!

[@bruceyoung1343]

Thank you for the Silk video. I just recieved my first roll of silk filament and your video will help out immensely Thank You Again

[@tsiege15]

Thank you for this video. Struggling with silk and going to print a temp tower now!

[@GeddyRC]

Thanks a lot for making this video. I am only 1 week into 3D printing but I accidentally ordered a case of 6 silk filaments, not realizing that the "silk" part was more than just the shiny finish... I've had nothing but bad luck trying to print anything with it. I just watched this entire video, dialed in my settings in Cura, and am currently printing a temp tower (even set up the G-code manually for the first time) to see how it works. I'm 2-3 layers in and already it looks leagues better. My biggest issue was that the first layer was adhering perfectly - zero issues there. But then it would string like crazy, looking like a silky spider web on subsequent layers, and it was a big hairy looking mess by layer 5-6. From my understanding it seems that the retraction speed as well as the overall print speed are the two single biggest factors to dial in regarding silk filament. It just tends to string into a disaster if you print it too fast. Thank you again for making this video, I'm going to save it and rewatch it when I need a refresher!

[@Darkwingdad]

Yea silk, for quality definitely go slower: if you’re still having minor stringing issues enable coasting (I explain that in my part 2 video) & very soon I’ll have part 3 up that will be the trifecta for quality silk printing. I appreciate the feedback & thanks for watching!

[@sketchers75]

I just did my first print with your suggestions from this video. Thank you so so much this print is so awesome I'm going to finally start to print some toys tonight so glad I found your Channel

[@Darkwingdad]

So great to hear! I’ve got a few more videos that will definitely help both silk & standard pla prints. Glad to have you as a subscriber!

[@Spirited282]

Very great tips and informative video. So many great silk filaments out there. I love Hello 3D personally.

[@Darkwingdad]

Hello is a great brand! There color changing silks are amazing!

[@d3w4yn3]

GLORIOUS!!! You just solved so many problems I've been having!!! So glad I found this video!!!

[@Darkwingdad]

Part 2 will have some indepth settings that will help even more!

[@rickhunter5316]

I’m about to start printing with silk to create Mandalorian armour. Your video was amazing. I use Cura and Ender 3V2. Out helped so much. Just subscribed as it was so detailed. Keep up the amazing channel.

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks rick! Good luck with the armor! If anything comes up drop me a comment . I’m working on a support video now that should also help & I’ll cover support printing both with silk & standard pla . Happy printing!

[@magrum21]

This is incredibly helpful…thank you! Subscribed and saved this!

[@Darkwingdad]

@@magrum21 thanks! Glad to help!

[@magrum21]

@@Darkwingdad - I had taken a hiatus from printing due to a busy work schedule and a bit of frustration with my Ender 3 v2, but I’m slowly learning more and more and getting things dialed in. Videos like yours which are straight forward, clear, no hype or showmanship are perfect to learn from. I appreciate how you explain things. Great job sir! Have a good evening!

[@Darkwingdad]

@@magrum21 I’ve got a nicely modded ender 3 neo, doing some videos soon on it, if you need any help just ask! I have 2 other videos parts in silk be sure to check them out as they have more in-depth settings for even better quality!

[@magrum21]

@@Darkwingdad will do! I’m building a collection of helpful 3D Printing videos to reference as I have time. My main issue with my v2 is the back left corner of the bed, and the way that cable tray sits and makes it hard to adjust the spring where I need it. It’s just incredibly tight.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@magrum21 look into silicone bed mounts. Set em once and you never have to touch em again!

[@mnr3d]

extremely informative video ! now i know why i ran into all the problems you've mentioned ..latterly all of them xD thanks a lot man

[@Darkwingdad]

Glad I could help! I plan on doing more with placement, cooling & additional wipe settings so a more in-depth video is in the works!

[@whitefamily2512]

Loved the video, just what I needed to help with my first silk print. Keep them coming :)

[@Darkwingdad]

Love to hear this! Happy printing!

[@Vlakoo88]

Hey man , wanna say thanks for tips in video. Today i printed for the first time with silk PLA on my K1 printer, and it turned out great, combined your tips with settings for K1 on silk (only higher speed) and everythings fine, though it was just a whistle model, but wanted to test it on something smaller to have some starting point.

[@Darkwingdad]

Yea you can definitely tweak the speeds with the K1 but very happy to hear this helped!

[@3DSweatshop]

Awesome video man thank you. Been loosing sleep over this issue and it’s fixed.

[@Darkwingdad]

That’s great to hear! Glad I could help!

[@idiotluggage]

Thanks for this information. I am just starting into 3D printing and have found this very helpful.

[@Darkwingdad]

Silk printing part 3 will be up soon & will help even more!

[@jedispidey]

Found this video late but I feel this will help me in my journey using silk.

[@Darkwingdad]

I have two other segments that will help too!

[@TheOctabreaker]

i've had zero problems with regular filament and nothing but problems with my multicolored silk filament. TEMP TOWERS?! Thank you so much, I've got to fix my clogged nozzle because I jacked the heat up and got some heat creep and blocked my nozzle. This is amazing. thank you.

[@Darkwingdad]

That’s what I’m here for! Thanks for watching!

[@davidgagnon1961]

Found your video and am going to try your settings. I am using a Ender 3 S1 Pro. This may give me a really good starting point for dial in. I am using Creality Print currently but have Cura 5.6 installed. Going to follow the advice. I have been pulling my hair out trying to get this Shiny Red Silk PLA to print correctly.

[@Darkwingdad]

With a direct drive try 1.0mm @ 40 mm/s for retraction

[@davidgagnon1961]

@@Darkwingdad thanks will try.

[@Lurker1222]

Wow! What a fantastic video! This is. So much awesome information and I can't wait to try it out!

[@Darkwingdad]

Let me know how you make out!

[@WarionexSabisaka]

thank you so much... this hellp me so much... i being having issues with settings.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@WarionexSabisaka no problem! Make sure to check out parts 2 & 3!

[@1911doc]

Dude, thanks for the setting tips. Had 2 days of terrible prints and after watching this, printing silk pla like a boss. No more warps at the edges, perfect prints.

[@Darkwingdad]

That’s why I made this video! So glad it helped! I’ll be doing an advanced video as well soon! Be on the look out and let me know what you think! Thanks for watching!

[@1911doc]

@@Darkwingdad Nice, will do! Hopping also soon for some TPU setting video :D

[@Darkwingdad]

@@1911doc tpu is another I’m working on

[@1911doc]

@@Darkwingdad Nice!

[@kenhaupt1865]

Wow, that was incredibly informative. Thanks for the work!

[@robertames4055]

I used your settings on a elegoo neptune 3 pro and it worked excellent! Thanks man for the great info!

[@Darkwingdad]

Great to hear Robert thank you!

[@aaandis]

Thank you so much for sharing. How do these settings apply to Creality K1max, that can print at much higher speeds?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@aaandis I’m working on a silk with klipper video, let’s just say you can’t print as fast as you want to but still faster than a marlin printer

[@aaandis]

@@Darkwingdad thank you so much for almost immediate response ❤ I am experiencing streaks on the flat parts of my curved surface. Thinking of acceleration to be blamed. You gave very good tips I now need to go back and explore.

[@Darkwingdad]

@ this is on your k1 max?

[@aaandis]

@@Darkwingdad Yes. Actully your tips helped a great deal. I lowered the speed to 125 mm/s, temp to 195, and it works! Really good quality prints. Thank you !!!

[@SadieP]

Thanks so much for this video! And for sharing your experience. 👏

[@timmyreeves4546]

Awesome, thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@daddylubarsky3049]

Thanks for sharing your experience! Very useful and down to point advice.

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks for watching, happy new year!

[@firetrac3r07]

I started using overture when I first got my printers. Absolutely loved them. Been using them ever since. I still will branch out and try other brands but I'll always come back and use overture

[@Darkwingdad]

They were one of the first filaments I used, they are definitely up there on my list

[@danilsobolev7625]

Thank you for such a detailed info!

[@Newplantbabyaustralia]

Thank you so much. Used your settings to print the sexiest little benchy. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge to help us beginners out. 👍

[@Darkwingdad]

No problem! In part 3 I have downloadable profiles as well!

[@brianwaterman8185]

Thanks for this video. Silks have been driving me crazy lately. Gonna try tweaking my settings to see what works best for me.

[@Darkwingdad]

Good luck! I have 2 other videos with advanced tips & settings, be sure to check em out!

[@brianwaterman8185]

@Darkwingdad I just saw! Gonna watch them today on lunch. I think I am going to try working with a different slicer. The anycubic one that is meant for my printer seems to be limited in my settings options. But it has a great interface. Tried the cura, but they don't have my printer in their library. Concerned it'll lead to more problems. So I gotta do some research there too.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@brianwaterman8185 doesn’t matter if the printer isn’t in there, the ender 3 neo isn’t in the latest cura & I just used the ender 3 v2 & it works fine. Just make sure it’s the right bed size etc & marlin will retain abl & bl touch & things of that nature

[@brianwaterman8185]

​@Darkwingdad oh awesome! I did go through and set the print size based on my kobra 2 neo. Gonna have to play with it more to get comfortable with it. Thanks again! Just getting into it for hobby, not financial gain. But it's something I want to get good at since I have decades of experience modeling in ACAD. So cool seeing your creations come to life.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@brianwaterman8185 small learning curve but you’ll be fine! Lots of helpful channels like mine to that help people on all skill levels!

[@greggbowers1947]

Thank you SO much! This was exactly the info I was seeking!!

[@Darkwingdad]

More to come! Thanks for watching!

[@chrisrathburn2712]

Hello! I am just now getting into 3d printing and my wife and I love the silk filaments… I’ve been struggling with getting better than good prints, and out of all the videos out there, this video was an absolute game changer and has given us absolutely fantastic prints! Thank you soooo much!!!

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks Chris, that’s the reason I do these videos! You’ll be happy to know I am making a part 3 with even more settings & tips I didn’t cover in my first to videos to help your prints even more!

[@chrisrathburn2712]

@@Darkwingdad Yay! I can't wait! You're awesome!!!

[@bigounce3180]

this video is freaking awesome do you anything about fan speed or should i keep that at 100%

[@Darkwingdad]

Check out my silk printing part 3 it covers cooling & positioning kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3vFo5RtpdGrlacsi=VnuwZgT1URB6FkvC

[@hafabrain9173]

Super helpful for silk printing thank you

[@Darkwingdad]

I also have part 2 & 3 for advanced settings! Check ‘em out!

[@jack0cat]

New sub here I totally agree on the temps 200 is my main printing temp and when ever I try a new brand the first thing I print is a temp tower.

[@Darkwingdad]

Thank you for the input! High temps are not always needed, temp towers for sure!

[@cristianjosadec]

Very good Information I like how smooth and shine the silk pla look , Thanks

[@Darkwingdad]

Thank you!

[@cristianjosadec]

@@Darkwingdad keep up 👍, new Subscriber here.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@cristianjosadec much appreciated, if you ever have questions or need input let me know!

[@cristianjosadec]

@@Darkwingdad Hello, I would like to know if I can use your settings with different things, because your example here is with helmets. I understand that the infill would have to be different in my case that I want to print articulated figures (transformers, 80's super robot etc) with this type of filament for a smooth finish, the designer recommended 20% infill and these other settings ( Layer: 0.15 mm (0.1 for the head) , Speed: 40/s , Skin/top/bottom: 0.8mm) for regular PLA , and also I have a direct extruder that the retraction would be different. I hope you can give me your recommendations

[@Darkwingdad]

@@cristianjosadec I actually have a video up for printing busts which would be ideal I can link it to you if you’d like

[@millsinkmill2146]

Thanks bro! I was ripping my hair out with silk! With you help now it’s printing flawless! Thank you so much keep the videos coming

[@Darkwingdad]

Great to hear! Thank you so much for the support!

[@fr3sh468]

thx for the temp tower tip

[@Darkwingdad]

No problem!

[@Blueye555]

Really appreciate your video! I really am surprised why there is not more content about this material. I initially printed some stuff with PLA with next to no issue even as a beginner - but that really does not apply to Silk filament! I will try what you recommend and hope results will improve - at least as far as it can get with that "Bresser Silk Copper" filament I bought for cheap and which is still making some pop sounds here and there even after hours of drying. Wish me luck! =D

[@Darkwingdad]

Soooo how’d ya make out??

[@Blueye555]

@@Darkwingdad I did a print of "Buddha The Rock" with that filament over night and it came out pretty decent (besides some gaps which are related to filament quality I think and some slightly annyoying z-seams where support was)! I watched a couple more of your videos but not sure if after or before that print. I sometimes do too much input and then forget things... :P But I am pretty sure, that your content helped me to get to that printing result. Thanks for that! Though I am not sure, if I will be able to recall that for future prints. I made a profile for it in Cura though. But actually I'd like to change to Orca slicer... I guess I have to go a bit slower to not change to much at once ^^

[@roncarroll4531]

Realyy liked the video. I have a question. Have you done any printing with the Creality K1c? And if so have you done a video with it using the silk filament?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@roncarroll4531 I have a k1 max, I recently released a video with my or a slicer profiles for printing great quality with pla & plan to do one on silk, but I can tell you if you use those profiles & set the print speed to 50% they print fantastic! I can link you the video if you’d like

[@JJbm4233]

Yours is clearly been the best video I’ve seen on KZbin for printing with silk filament. I use an Ender 3 S1. Using your settings printing became much easier with silk, but then suddenly failed and I couldn’t print anything with silk. Had to get a new glass bed from Creality. At least I can still use the old bed regular filament.

[@Darkwingdad]

What issues did you have when they started to fail?

[@do_do420]

Thank you so much I been getting blobs and being new to the 3d printing I wanted to give up but stumbled across your video it seems to be doing better but I’m getting spacing between each line

[@Darkwingdad]

Like a gap?

[@do_do420]

@@Darkwingdad yes sorry i didnt even think you would comment

[@Darkwingdad]

@@do_do420 is it consistent or random? Early in the print or throughout?

[@do_do420]

@@Darkwingdadthrough out the whole print

[@Darkwingdad]

@@do_do420 blobs could be your seat setting, overextrusion or if you have power loss restore enabled it can cause blobs. The seperation could be temp too low & speed too high

[@l.w.c.2519]

After a couple years of 3D printing, About to start printing with Silk PLA for the first time for an airplane engine model (to get a metal look). Very helpful video, I took lots of notes. Thanks for your help!

[@tombeardy4833]

support settings for silk would be gr8 :)

[@Darkwingdad]

I’m filming a part 3 now, supports will be included :)

[@CYellowan]

This surely explains why my default settings prints went a lot further than the crap amolen lists for their own silk types. Very VERY missleading of them. Wasted many days trying to make some masks myself here. Very frustrating failing 70% in. I hope they instruct better and change their manual. Let's see how far attempt 4 will go before things fail 😂

[@Darkwingdad]

Definitely takes time to get everything set in, silk can be finicky, happy to help :)

[@hankmast9940]

Ender 3 v3 se with the ceramic unicorn hotend, getting little clogs that jack up the layer, do you recommend a .6mm nozzle?

[@Darkwingdad]

Have you done a pid tune & esteps?

[@hankmast9940]

No I’ll try those thanks!

[@vazza69]

Good stuff! Been having a hard time with this esun silk pla. Think i'm there now with some of your tips 👌

[@Darkwingdad]

Awesome to hear!!

[@tjones3825]

Awesome info DW!! I'm going to give silk a shot here soon. Those Doom masks look absolutely flawless!!

[@Darkwingdad]

Go for it my dude!

[@CYellowan]

Btw as a youtuber myself, very very nice guide. Really covered anything and everything 👍👏

[@happenedfir8642]

Just picked up my first roll of silk pla been printing for a year now but just with normal pla thanks for the advice and some starting numbers to put into my profile hopefully my prints turn out as great as yours do thank you for making this video happy printing

[@Darkwingdad]

Let me know how you make out! Thanks for watching!

[@MyBlocksStrongestMan]

I'm brand new to 3D printing, using an UP Mini 2 that I recently won at work. Of course the white ABS that came with the machine printed beautifully on all default settings, but I'm trying to print multicolor Silk PLA now to make some little stocking stuffers, and having all kinds of issues. I'm also a KZbin creator so I appreciate how well laid out and informative this video was. Thanks! I'll make some of these changes and let you know how it goes.

[@MyBlocksStrongestMan]

Still getting just glops and a stringy mess. Maybe my printer just can't print Silk PLA.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@MyBlocksStrongestMan you’ll definitely need to print a temp test tower and retraction test however, most silk will print nicely with a temp of 200-205 and try retraction setting of 6.0mm @ 30/35mms that should help the stringing, set the fan to 85% and print at 50mm/s

[@powersprouter]

Wonderful video! Thank you!!!!

[@jiuston]

Great video, thank you very, very much.

[@kita1993]

What size nozel do you print with please? I currently have w 0.6 on my machine but based on your video, im wondering if thats too big?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@kita1993 .4, you’ll print faster with a .6 but detail will be a bit less precise

[@raccoon5150]

I’m going to try your settings out as I have a ender 3 max with duel z and a spider 3.0 hot end. I will have a couple successful Silk prints then it won’t print properly or it will clog. So I will see what these settings will do thanks for the video

[@boboscurse4130]

I'm waiting for my Bambu P1S to arrive so I've been getting familiar with Bambu Studio slicer. All of their filament profiles are the same: Temp 200C regardless of the PLA type. So we have to create all our own profiles?

[@Darkwingdad]

Yes, I have profiles created in my part 3 video you can download

[@boboscurse4130]

@@DarkwingdadOh, you rock! Heading there now.

[@boboscurse4130]

@@Darkwingdad So frustrated. I got my P1S today. Did a test print using their included PLA. Ran perfectly. Have been trying to print silk for hours and they fail after about 5-10 layers. I'm going slow...30 mm/sec initial layer and 60 after that. 208C tool and 35C bed.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@boboscurse4130 35 is way too low for the bed temp. I assume they are popping off?

[@boboscurse4130]

@@Darkwingdad Yes! I don't even know where I got that number. I checked your profile again and it's 56C. I'm printing it now.

[@aaronosb7787]

What size nozzle are you using for those nice art pieces i have an anycubic kobra neo in tuning for silk and I changed all my settings to match what you should in the video b4 I printed the temp tower and the temp tower came out great and do u use the Z hop up setting on ur prints

[@Darkwingdad]

I’m running a .4 nozzle & yes z hop is an essential setting to have enabled!

[@aaronosb7787]

I did the print in place sloth and it still didn't work right im getting a gaps in the layer lines in random spots and it's driving me nuts trying to figure out what is causing this to happen

[@Darkwingdad]

@@aaronosb7787 little knibs or bumps?

[@aaronosb7787]

@@Darkwingdad there is a little bit of bumps but mostly looks like missing outer wall lines in a bunch of spots can I email you a picture of it

[@Darkwingdad]

@@aaronosb7787 sounds like either A) your overextryding- esteps & flow need calibration B) you have a clog and are underextruding- could be a clog or improper esteps or moisture in the filament

[@ericdesjardins4537]

I have an anycubic kobra 2 neo I have tried everything possible fir my eryone silk pla what should I do I'm using the anycubic slicer I did many things with pla glow in the dark but not so much with silk yet

[@Darkwingdad]

Have you adjusted your settings to what I use?

[@Policebeuponhim247]

Any advice on dual color silk

[@Darkwingdad]

Check out my silk printing part 3

[@ProjectDefi]

great video. i just bought a bunch of silk and might keep doing so after this video. i also just bought another 3d printer. my gateway was a bambu a1 mini. just bought qidi max3 but wont get it for a month or so. shipping is a pain

[@Darkwingdad]

@@ProjectDefi I have additional tips & more in-depth settings in my vol 2 & volume 3 videos. If you need the links let me know!

[@ProjectDefi]

@@Darkwingdad I'll check them our brother. I'm a newbie and need all the help I can get

[@Darkwingdad]

@@ProjectDefi let me know if you need help with anything!

[@learningwithlynda3562]

As someone very new to 3D Printing, this video is so informative! You have answered so many questions I had regarding Cura and Silk PLA. Thanks so much! I can't wait to try some tests with your Cura settings!

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks for tuning in. I will have the part 2 video up in a few days which will provide additional settings & explain what they do. Thanks for watching & happy printing!

[@learningwithlynda3562]

@@Darkwingdad Thanks your video was so good, I already subscribed. Thanks again.

[@martymcfly4038]

This vid was amazing!

[@Darkwingdad]

Thank you!!

[@Cheekiegaming]

Hi Darkwing, stumbled on your channel over last couple of weeks and quickly subscribed,I got my son what I call a beginner's printer a monoprice mini unfortunately our print bed is small (secretly been wanting a printer myself for a few yrs but convincing the Mrs hasn't been a breeze). Anyhow we both are learning together. Just had to say how much your channel has inspired us more with 3D printing and crafting and luving the tech stuff to boot. Our first filament we are using is eSun with no issues but just now learning about dry box's so we both now doing a DIY box 😁 creative inspiration. 👊 UK

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks for the sub my friend! With the recent increase in price of dry boxes I was thinking about doing a video on how to make one, might be a good idea since others are doing it too. Much more to come on the channel, thanks for coming along for the ride!

[@Cheekiegaming]

@@Darkwingdad Wish found your channel sooner 😎 DIY dry box vid would be good idea at some point 👍 also have you thought about making own filament for another vid ? As the expense of filament is I'm looking for cheaper alternative at the moment 🤔

[@Darkwingdad]

@@Cheekiegaming filament production is a lengthy process. I have a few sponsors that I get rolls around $10-$12 so for me I’m good with that lol

[@Cheekiegaming]

@@Darkwingdad ah that's a result 👍😎

[@paulreeder5241]

I just found this video and you have a new subscriber! I love the way you presented everything so concisely. I am getting a new Anycubic Kobra today, Sunday, 29th May 2022. I will be using this info for sure. Would an enclosure help or not?

[@Darkwingdad]

Enclosure DEFINITELY help keep ambient temps stable. One video I am working on next is positioning of prints with stock fans. The temp can fluctuate based on where it’s generated causing print imperfections. But an enclosure can help nullify that

[@paulreeder5241]

@@Darkwingdad Thank you so much for the fast response. I am glad to hear that the enclosure I built wasn't for nothing. lol

[@paulreeder5241]

@@Darkwingdad The temp tower and retraction test are the first 2 things I will be printing.I also have, no wait! It's all here yaaay. I just got my printer, filament and dry box/dehumidifier! I have another question, is this direct drive extruder going to help? Sorry, one more question, I have some gold silk PLA, but it has been sitting out in the open in my garage for about a year, maybe a little longer, is this filament still useable if I use the dryer for say like 2 hours?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@paulreeder5241 I would dehydrate it for at least 4 hours before printing. Also with direct drive your retraction distance and speed will be different. Start the distance at 1.0mm/s and move up in incriments of .5 but don’t exceed 2.5. As far as speed start at 30mm/s & increase 5 mm/s in your test. Make sure the filament stays in the dehydrator while printing

[@visionofcomplexity]

Really Good video thank you

[@Darkwingdad]

Thank you! Thanks for watching!

[@AndrewAHayes]

I also use Ziro filament, I love the quality windings and the Mylar type sealable bag and they are the only company I know of that give you the nozzle cleaning filament, I also like that they give you a sample of some of their more exotic filaments and the fact that there is a noticable difference in the quality of my prints makes it a no brainer. Some of my silk PLA rolls have to be printed with a higher temperature or they delaminate, the Ziro silk PLA doesent though.

[@Darkwingdad]

Ziro is imo one of the best if not THE best!

[@JDMRaw]

watched a half dozen of your videos, all solid. Im new to the game and learning alot. thank you. can you go over your thinking and methods on supports for your masks, helmets, and figures?

[@Darkwingdad]

Of course! I’m actually printing 4 helmets now bc I’m adding the flip up faceplate, I’ll start working on something for ya!

[@JDMRaw]

@@Darkwingdad sweet dude. Thanks. I just returned my CR10s because it blew up in the back when I turned it on. I’m thinking about getting the cr10v3. Do you think that’s a good buy or?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@JDMRaw I would go cr10 v2 and upgrade the Bowden & hot end I’m doing that upgrade on mine now

[@Guhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh]

I keep my silk pla in a plastic box with desiccant packets in it, will that do for dehydration?

[@Darkwingdad]

That will only prevent new moisture from getting in, but those packets don’t last forever and need replacing over a few months. They will not help pull much moisture if any out of the filament

[@JIMPENREVIEWS]

Hi! Awesome! What type of filament did you use on the helmet? What Brand?

[@Darkwingdad]

Ziro silk pla, links in description

[@Tunedawg23]

Where did get the stl for the gladiator mask?

[@Darkwingdad]

I modeled it

[@colinmsmall]

Which filament have you used that you think gave you the closest finish to a chrome like Mandalorian beskar sort of result? I’d like to try printing a couple of armor pieces with silk.

[@Darkwingdad]

amzn.to/44zZn5s Ziro silver black is great for beskar

[@sergetheijspartner2005]

I used Sunlu's rainbow filament, it printed fine for a lot of stuff except when I tried to print an articulated shark, it kept breaking at the hinges, I also noticed at the end of the filament that those prints where shinier at 210°C (Ender 3 Pro with a Swissmicro direct drive and full metal hotend, the full metal requires a 5 to 10°C higher than you would usually print with), I do not know what went wrong with the hinges but I definitely did not dry my filament, Figured it wouldn't be so bad since it came right out of the plastic vacuum sealing.

[@Darkwingdad]

Silk filaments are a bit more frail than traditional pla. Don’t be afraid to bump your infill up a tad on articulated pieces. Also, moisture may have caused that issue too.

[@jasonortiz9203]

i was about to give up on silk till i saw your video thank you for talking the time to help up noobs

[@Darkwingdad]

@@jasonortiz9203 that’s what I’m here for!

[@jasonortiz9203]

@@Darkwingdad not going to lie tho 2 out of 10 prints completed maybe its just this roll of silk

[@NaF_Art_Studio]

started using silk n clogged my extruder twice, and the clog was on ironing phase, any recommedndation for ironing settings on the silk ? great content, thanks.

[@Darkwingdad]

Do you have esteps and flow calibrated? What is your ironing flow % at? Also have you done a temp tower?

[@Jezza364]

Thanks for your tips. I use loads of Eryone Silk silver pla. Generally have good results but sometimes i can run into some print issues which i cant seem to work out. After watching this and the other video im now going to play around with my cura settings as you have pointed out a couple settings which i have not adjusted.

[@GalacticYeeter]

i must ask did you use a direct drive printer or a bowdan printer?

[@Darkwingdad]

These were all Bowden set up

[@GalacticYeeter]

@@Darkwingdad so what did you do for the new (z hop when retracted) settings have you tested those in the new cura? also you should know my dad and myself consider eryone to be a trash filament i personally used a reel of cc3d silk gold to print the dragon claw from skyrim with a bit of advice from you. my latest attempt despite some scuffed settings turned out good needed some cleaning but good at least compared to the three failures before one of which i repaired with epoxy due to bad infill settings.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@GalacticYeeter I’ll touch on those settings in part 3. I used eryone cooper & green for my pumpkin bombs & goblin mask & had nothing but great results. Every filament is different. I recently tried some color shift silk from string hero & it was not that great. Even after running it through my dehydrator, tweeking & reprinting & sent it back because for $33 a roll it simply printed significantly poorly than ziro

[@GalacticYeeter]

@@Darkwingdad btw never did say thanks i tested these settings on a direct drive printer im quite happy with the results im getting they work great at least on the robo 3d r2. in return allow me to provide some general advice my own dad gave me on support structures you may or may not find useful. basically what i did for my last print is i set my support for a different infill style then the main. so ie my main infill is lines but my support infill is cross. then following further advice from my dad. i set the support z distance to about 0.2mm which doing these two things makes removing supports alot easier and reduces the likely hood of damage occurred when removing but i wont omit that the flipside to this is that you loose a bit of adhesiveness doing this so if you ever need to use a printer that you cant afford to put glue on because of the way it is there you go.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@GalacticYeeter great to hear that! Yes support infill is always significantly less that the print infill. I usually run 4% on supports with zigzag. Line distance between 13-14 & I like running the z distance at .24 but if I need more support I’ll run a 2. I dropped a few shorts on how easy they pop off

[@micheleb9501]

I’m struggling with my first roll of silk, can’t get it to adhere to my magnetic bed at all. I’m going to use your settings and do some testing to see if I can finally get it to work. Thanks for the video!

[@Darkwingdad]

This vid will help get you started, drop me a follow up if you need help

[@nomdefamille4807]

Many thanks for the hints, I can print silk on my old machine but the new one (with direct drive) seems to clog up every time. I have wondered whether a servo drive on the extruder would have helped. What I would have liked is if you had listed your cura settings in the heading text (alongside the video timing)

[@Darkwingdad]

Direct drive is going to have a lower retraction distance (1.5-2) speed can be adjusted too but a retraction test will prove which is best for you

[@nomdefamille4807]

@@Darkwingdad Wow, I had not expected a rapid response. Using your tips I have now managed a "barely acceptable" silk print from the direct-drive. The strange thing is that my old CR10-5s manages that same spool on my default pla settings, it works at 50mm/sec, 200 degrees (if the thermistor is reporting correctly) and the nozzle does not even have a silicon boot. My take is that the Rosa silk I have will print decently if it can actually be forced out of the extruder. The direct drive extruder keeps on clicking (a partial advance then return, not a "skip"), even on the new recommended settings though not as bad as before. The cr10 has a much larger extruder motor (but no reduction gear) but, perhaps more importantly, half a metre or so of bowden. I'm guessing that this acts as as a pressure reservoir, it lets the stepper advance to the proper position even if there is a lot of back-pressure and the filament has a chance to extrude before the next "step". For the direct drive, when the the stepper kicks back and fails to advance (because the silk pla does not extrude fast enough or at all) then that volume is simply lost. By applying additional manual force to the pla input I think that I have proved this to myself. Would that the direct drive stepper was either a hybrid or servo, or that I could fit one of those rubber "quietening adapters" between the motor and extruder. I note that the first few layers generally proceed without clicking, which suggests a further experiment. For the time wasted a better quality filament would have been worth it.

[@boboscurse4130]

I can't wait for you to re-do these videos in Bambu-speak. LOL! Regarding jerk, I don't see this in Bambu. Could it be that their vibration compensation takes care of this? I have the P1S, no LIDAR. The numbers are just so wildly different. When you say travel speed of 100, Bambu's default is 500! Bambu's default infill overlap is 15%. I'm looking forward to seeing the difference when I lower that.

[@Darkwingdad]

Bambu is the exception, it’s built totally different I plan on getting one & doing a whole video for the bambu & k1 line

[@Shinjitsu_84]

Thanks this video has helped quite a bit!

[@Darkwingdad]

Great to here! More videos like this coming soon!

[@matrix3dprinting812]

Great video what size nozzle do you use please? IV been told y of u can't print silk on a 0.4 and to use a 0.6?

[@Darkwingdad]

I use .4 on everything currently, I’ll be experimenting with .6 very soon!

[@luisfmoralesjr5221]

Very helpful. Thanks.

[@Darkwingdad]

Thank you for watching!

[@masterduelistaero]

Hi great videos! I have recently been struggling with a Sunlu silk pla+ filament. Even with all these extra settings, I cannot seem to get a perfect print. More than anything they continue to be stringy and have some rough edges, even with retraction and lower heat settings.(200-205) Have you tried this product?

[@Darkwingdad]

I have used sunlu, enable coasting to help reduce stringing. Have you calibrated your esteps & flow?

[@masterduelistaero]

@@Darkwingdad I am currently using IdeaMaker with my Longer LK5 and it seems I do have coasting on with .2mm. As far as esteps and flow, I'm afraid I don't know much about it. I am very new to this and I am trying my best to learn but it has been a lot of information. Is there any possibility of sharing pictures of settings to get feedback?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@masterduelistaero you can email pics of your settings so I can see what’s going on but esteps & flow are an important part of getting quality prints

[@masterduelistaero]

@@Darkwingdad sent settings to email in your profile.

[@Matthew-zo3bv]

What size nozzle are you running?

[@Darkwingdad]

.4

[@boboscurse4130]

I'm revisiting this video as I learn more and print more. I'm trying to get my silk the best it can be. I was reading that a temp tower is useless for the Bambu because it's so fast. Do you disagree?

[@Darkwingdad]

That’s false, temperature 100% plays a role in numerous areas. I had a subscriber who’s prints kept failing on a bambu, the stock setting for the bed was 45* & print temp was 185. Changed to my settings with no issues.

[@boboscurse4130]

@@Darkwingdad Thanks. Your silk stuff looks amazing. I want to get good at this.

[@kuman64]

this video helps a lot. now there is a little random holes/gaps in few layers, what could be the reson. i print it with sunlu sil plan with my big machine 3dcubic india. and prusa slicer. please reply.

[@Darkwingdad]

Sounds like under extrusion. Have you calibrated esteps & flow? Also are you using a filament dehydrator & how old is the machine? Is your extruder gear worn or slipping?

[@kuman64]

@@Darkwingdad thanks to reply. My machine is new. Can you tell me how to calibrate ?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@kuman64 I have a video on doing esteps on the v3. Do you need help with the retraction & temp tower?

[@kuman64]

@@Darkwingdad yes please