3D printing with silk filaments part 2 | advanced tips with silk pla with 3D printed green goblin

[@Lurker1222]

It's so refreshing to find a channel with good info that isn't someone yelling at the screen trying to be cool or hip for the algorithm. You have some of the best prints I've ever seen and you're just giving away your secrets to all of us. It is VERY appreciated. Lol. Please keep up the good work.

[@Darkwingdad]

The goal of this channel is to be specific but not over the top with “techy” information. There are some great channels out there but not everyone speaks the lingo if that makes sense. I’m trying to redirect things to where even beginners can grasp the info & get better. Much more to come my friend 👊🏻

[@Don-xy8cy]

Ive spent half a day trying to get my silver Silk PLA to print properly with no consistent results until - I watched your video and copied your settings into my print profile. Instantly Im getting infinitely better results!!! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I cant believe how a few obscure settings can make such a big difference. Thanks again.

[@Darkwingdad]

That’s fantastic to hear don! I appreciate your feedback & view! I am working on some advanced settings for part 3 & hoping to do a video soon for prusa slicer users! Great to hear you got everything working!

[@melissamoore6733]

Is there away to get a file with your cura setting?

[@jaydelaney2131]

I was able to skip the entire process of learning to do this on my own through trial and error because of you. There were a few bumps in the road, but my prints keep getting better and better, all thanks to your videos. So thank you.

[@Darkwingdad]

It’s comments like this that let me know this channel is worth while, so glad to hear this!

[@agriperma]

I just ordered two spools of silk, with your videos I have gotten the courage to give silk a try.

[@Darkwingdad]

You’ll do awesome! Just do your filament calibration and tweak some settings as stated and you’ll be golden!

[@agriperma]

@@Darkwingdad printed one of those spiral vases, and it came out great, I printed another to give away as a gift, thanks for the tips.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@agriperma great to hear! For vases search “vase mode” or “spiralize outer contour” it will create a seamless print!

[@aberodriguez4149]

Lol and here I was thinking 10 hours was a long print. Thank you for this insight view it places my mind to understand this hobby is serious commitment if one wants awesome results like yours. Keep up the great job.

[@Darkwingdad]

You definitely have to go outside of your comfort zone to learn & adapt. Although not everyone will use my methods or do things differently but I can tell you I don’t sugar coat ANYTHING. So if you want no BS upfront facts, I’ll give ‘em to ya!

[@ProjectDefi]

finally got to watch part 2. Love what you are doing bro

[@Darkwingdad]

@@ProjectDefi I appreciate it my man!

[@seanbranney5486]

Just printed a TIE fighter pilot helmet using the settings you went over here. By far the best looking thing I've printed. Thank you very much for these tips.

[@Darkwingdad]

Sean, I love hearing success stories like this! Glad this video helped, be sure to email me a pic when it’s complete! Happy new year!

[@Enjoymentboy]

I really like that you actively explained why slowing down can be good. Other than printing TPU I find most people just want to blast it prints as quickly as possible and rarely do I find they focus on quality. It's almost like a competition with them. "I can print at 300mms". "Oh yeah? I print at 500mms". Frankly i would much rather a print that takes twice as long but looks fantastic and didn't fail than rocketing one out just so i can boast that I did it in 3 hours less than the next guy.

[@Darkwingdad]

Unless you have a machine built for speed conventional printers aren’t going to give quality when you exceed 80mm & up. I’d rather tune & print slower & have a stunning print than a row of so so helmets that only look good from 6 feet away

[@pirobot668beta]

@@Darkwingdad Even with purpose built 'speed demons' like my X1 Carbon, slowing down to suit what the filament 'wants' is always the best answer! Silk and TPU don't like being pushed around... Yes, I can print really, really fast...but that makes Silk become a 'metallic matte' finish. 30-40 outer wall...Silk be happy!

[@Darkwingdad]

@@pirobot668beta I have several klipper based printers now & even with them tuned silk doesn’t like being done faster, if you want quality slow & steady

[@sekhmet9808]

Ive only been printing for 2 weeks and I just started using silk PLA today, and this was extremely helpful! Thank you so much!

[@Darkwingdad]

So glad it helped! Thanks for viewing!

[@Maleboligia]

Thank you very much for the 2 videos, I have been using silk PLA for the last few rolls and I think I will stick with it. Goblin looks amazing!

[@rayturp6742]

I liked the duel color on the mask.

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks! Didn’t mean for it to happen, still bummed personally but you can’t even tell mounted up on the wall lol

[@obviousphantom]

This video helped me solve most of the issues with the silk pla I use and the settings Darkwing Dad uses have been awesome. Also, this is one of the few in depth videos I've found for silk pla. Appreciate you and the time you've given to us first time 3D printers.

[@Darkwingdad]

You just made my night Chris! I really appreciate your feedback! I plan on doing one more video just to explain some additional options with silk but I’m glad this video is helping! Working on more videos as we speak! Have a great new year my friend!

[@franchesco6797]

That goblin mask turned out looking so freaking great! Wow!! Thanks a lot for the two videos. I'm new to printing with silk filament, these videos and the cura settings have helped a lot! I have been able to print great looking models thanks to you.

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks so much! Great to hear glad they got you on track!

[@franchesco6797]

@@Darkwingdad And also thanks for recommending a dehydrator, you are right, that thing is a must! Where I live the humidity is very high so I bought one too.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@franchesco6797 absolutely, I live in FL and even if I keep them in bags with silica packets the silk especially gets brittle and cracks & obviously clogs. I usually run the dehydrator for 4 hours and than keep it in while printing, no issues at all. Only problem is too many printers not enough dehydrators lol

[@franchesco6797]

@@Darkwingdad lol! I might have to do the same as you, I live in PR. I also keep the dehydrator on while printing to make sure the filament stays dry.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@franchesco6797 here’s a safe hurricane season to you my friend! I share your pain this time of year!

[@adrianstealth340]

I’m after as perfect as possible your vid is very helpful , just ordered a dry box massive thanks , subbed & will recommend to pals etc

[@drakeiidavid8314]

Thanks for sharing!

[@JulysHobbyWorkship]

Thank for all this information, easy to follow. Would you be able to share your Cura profiles to download? Thanks!

[@Darkwingdad]

Yes I’m making part 3 my profile will be on the Google drive

[@JulysHobbyWorkship]

@@Darkwingdad thank you!

[@JulysHobbyWorkship]

@@Darkwingdad thank you! How do we get access to the google drive?

[@tjones3825]

A long print but well worth it!! Definite quality show piece. AMAZING!!

[@VadelGame]

Your channel is a hidden gem. Keep it up. Hopefully I get back into cosplay along with a new 3D printer haha.

[@Darkwingdad]

Really appreciate the kind words, thanks for watching!

[@AndrewAHayes]

Wow that Green Goblin is amazing, I cant wait to see your improvements!

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks! One day I’ll do a painted version but I’m pretty happy with the overall outcome with this one!

[@busyjambes]

Hey I have been following your advice and have cleared up a lot of issues quickly

[@Darkwingdad]

Great to hear!

[@Cheekiegaming]

Subscribe a couple of months ago but going through your content and found this on tips for silk which was good timing as me and my son are experimenting with silk at the moment. Taking your tips and will be giving them a try 😎

[@Darkwingdad]

Let me know how it goes!

[@Cheekiegaming]

@@Darkwingdad ah I cursed it 5hrs in I noticed the filament got stuck on the spool I thought I caught it in time but unfortunately printer carried on without the filament 🤦we are still learning Cura and realized that we missed a few settings jerk was one of them. We are trying to print the goblin bomb as it's the only thing you print that fits our bed 120x120x120 it's small 😁. I had real trouble getting silk orange at a reasonable price but had to settled on flashforge, have you had any experience with this filament?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@Cheekiegaming I use primarily ziro but I’ve used overture,jay o & tecbears & all worked well.

[@Cheekiegaming]

@@Darkwingdad On our 3rd attempt with more supports this silk is challenging us at the moment ☹️ keep on changing things to dial this in 🤞. How do you start big prints ie to start small print or just a temp tower ? or you have all the settings homed in now ? Have you experienced changes between different filament manufacturers just thinking when setting up profiles in Cura sorry for so many questions.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@Cheekiegaming watch my silk printing part 1. It will answer & guide you through getting everything set up including settings

[@cos2mes]

Your videos are a God send!!!

[@Darkwingdad]

I appreciate the kind words!

[@Mikey-bm1eh]

Please please keep uploading you will be so popular so soon you are very good at what you do and explaining things I made a green goblin bomb just like yours Thankyou so much for making these videos!

[@Darkwingdad]

Great to hear! Feel free to email me pics of your work to [e-mail] as I’m going to start having creators of the month that receive free products!

[@Mikey-bm1eh]

@@Darkwingdad will do

[@magnificent0078]

Keep up the great videos man. I'm learning a lot.

[@Darkwingdad]

That’s what it’s all about, so glad to hear!

[@pennakira]

Thank you for the videos, what hair spray do you recommend on glass for bed adhesion?

[@Darkwingdad]

Aqua net is great & inexpensive

[@pennakira]

@@Darkwingdad Thank you

[@chrisg7663]

Love your channel man, keep it up!

[@hc6979]

Hello, thanks for your videos. I'm new to 3d printing and have been learning alot from them. By any chance, do you have any videos on the settings in Orca Slicer? I'm using a Bambu A1 and I can't find a direct equal in Orca. Thanks again!

[@Darkwingdad]

@@hc6979 I sure do, I have profiles loaded from my last video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/d3rCgmuaYtF0rJosi=tBdcSq_yk5WJHpQ8 And for detailed explanation check out the Deadpool video at the end screen of that video!

[@hc6979]

@@Darkwingdad Thank you! Truly appreciate it!

[@Darkwingdad]

@@hc6979 no problem!

[@Tony_3d_]

Good information but how do you hide the seam and no support marks

[@Darkwingdad]

Smart hide setting for the seam & top Z distance set properly for supports. It also helps to have the model positioned so the supports are on the inside instead of exposed on the outside

[@paparomeoproductions5956]

These are some solid tips! Thanks man!

[@cos2mes]

160 hour print??!! Holy cow. I don’t know what to say. You’re a print Jedi!

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks man!

[@pirobot668beta]

This is why I have a large-capacity UPS unit with my printer as the only 'customer'! My apartment is at the tail-end of a large distribution network...a Steel Mill is 'upstream' of us. We get drop-outs lasting 3-5 seconds and brown-outs lasting for minutes. It's so bad, the Managers of the Apartment mention the crappy power-service to prospective renters!

[@EngineeredKaos]

Great videos on printing silk! What retraction setting would you use for a direct drive setup?

[@Darkwingdad]

Do a test but start at 1.0mm @ 30mm/s I’ve seen .5-1.5 is ideal & I rarely exceeded 35 mm/s

[@EngineeredKaos]

@@Darkwingdad awesome, thanks for the fast reply! I’m constantly sharing your videos on Facebook 3D printing groups when I see people struggling with silk.

[@JohnBlaze505]

Do you reccomend this same profile recipe for the DOOM mask? Ill just be using regular PLA, maybe do another in silky silver later.

[@Darkwingdad]

90 % of these settings can be used for pla too so your good to go. Temp,retraction will be different but just do temp/retraction towers and tweak as needed.

[@christianbureau6732]

Any recomandation for printing with Silk and Input Shaper with Prusa? They rise the temps by about 10 degrees to compensate for speed.

[@Darkwingdad]

I guess that depends what speed your printing at. I don’t recommend going over 65 mm/s to retain quality

[@Printerguy360]

Amazing

[@WhiteSparkie]

Good info. Thanks! The only thing i don't understand is that combing can prevent clogs and heat creep. Could you explain that please?

[@Darkwingdad]

You are reducing the number of retractions, especially if you have a high retraction rate this could potentially swell the Bowden tube aka heat creep

[@Printerguy360]

I have been getting line breaks in several silk prints. Do you have a video that could help? How many silk runs did you do to figure all of this out? Thank you for your investment in the skill.

[@Darkwingdad]

By breaks do you mean the silk is seperating or you’re getting layer shifts?

[@Printerguy360]

@Darkwingdad no shifting but when the has parts that come off straight across. Like it doesn't stick together. Been gluing back on but it would be cooler if I didnt.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@Printerguy360 likely a temperature or skin/infill overlap issue

[@JarrinStokes]

So talented!

[@Darkwingdad]

Thanks my man, how are you doing?

[@terryjeffries4815]

Awesome videos!! I just started 3d printing a month ago and kinda had a hard time. I started watching your videos and I have improved alot. I am looking into doing the space shuttle and the saturn 5 rockets and was wondering if some of these setting would work? I have an ender 3 v2 and use ultimaker cura 5.2.1. I will keep watching and learning!! Thanks a million!!!!

[@Darkwingdad]

These settings will definitely work for pla. Temp & retraction will be different based on your calibration tests. Infill can be different too but over all these settings are 90% transferable to standard pla

[@ridzwanirawan_]

Whoa thats super cool

[@idiotluggage]

Thanks for sharing this. Not sure if you have done the wearable Goblin mask yet, but magnets are the way to go. I know the Star Wars Clone Trooper helmets use magnets to hold the bottom back piece in. My friend even has straps attaching the piece to the helmet so he doesn't have to worry about it accidentally coming off and falling. The straps are on the inside of the helmet at the top of the back plate that is removable.

[@Darkwingdad]

This is just display but I’ve done several with magnets & they are life savers!

[@falkonfpv]

great job!!! looks perfect

[@PiXeLParadiseUSA]

You seem to be the Silk PLA master! I usually print PETG on my Prusa and have that super dialed in for years! - But now for christmas I switched one machine over to a .4 nozzle and want to do some fun silk PLA prints for the kiddos. The main issue I am having printing a crystal dragon is all of the the overhangs seem to want to lift up and warp. So eventually the print fails because these warped tips collide with the nozzle and then create havoc. Adhesion is good. This is just an issue with heat or retraction settings is my guess - using ERYONE silk PLA. Any obvious pointers would be good. Thanks in advance!

[@Darkwingdad]

I would look toward your temp & fan, if it’s curling up it may be cooling too fast, usually if it’s too hot/not enough cooling it sags

[@PiXeLParadiseUSA]

@@Darkwingdad I actually disabled my print fan entirely on my last print to allow it to cool naturally (slower). My print bed is 60 but I've heard lowering that might help but worried about adhesion issues then. Nozzle temp was 210/205. I plugged in your retraction settings and also slowed the print speeds down and want to try that now, but curious if those temps sound right or need adjustment.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@PiXeLParadiseUSA 205 is a good temp, it may be too hot than with no fan on. Do you notice oozing at all?

[@PiXeLParadiseUSA]

@@Darkwingdad Didn't notice oozing per se, but maybe that's whats building up on the overhangs, not curling? I'll keep the heat at 205 and I'll make sure the fan turns on at layer 3 and give it a whirl. Thanks!

[@Darkwingdad]

@@PiXeLParadiseUSA yea if it’s too hot it can curl but that could also be retraction related, I would definitely introduce some cooling & I think it’ll solve your issue

[@KevNic88]

hi there. Only thing im not seeing in your setting for cura is what settings to have for the ironing function in cura. are yours stock settings?

[@Darkwingdad]

Pretty much stock, I turned ironing flow down a tad just bc I was getting some sagging on overhangs on certain models but for the most part when you adjust things like speed & acceleration ironing should all stay the same

[@cos2mes]

Hollooo, these settings are for the .4 nozzle, right? Not .6?

[@Darkwingdad]

The only setting that will differ for .6 is your wall thickness & wall line count.

[@boboscurse4130]

Are the slower speeds for silk only for the outer walls and top layers? The internals can still print at default fast settings?

[@Darkwingdad]

Infill speed can be faster (50-55) walls should be around 30 Bambu can be much faster though (close to double)

[@NaF_Art_Studio]

answers my previous question, thaanks.

[@busyjambes]

I am finding an issue where my bridging is terrible with a tricolor silk pla. How to send you a photo of a temperature bridge failed on every bridge

[@Darkwingdad]

[e-mail]

[@vincenttuttle3643]

wow got to thank you for this video i can now print with silk pla and i never thought my printer could print so good it worked so nice i tried it with plain pla and it work just as good have you done a video on supports im new to 3d printing and cant seem to get the right setting??

[@Darkwingdad]

No supports video yet but planning on making one!

[@Kr0niXa]

Hi, I'm new to 3d printing. I recently bought a FLSun SR with Silk PLA by SUNLU and as I ran out of the PLA that came with the 3d printer 2 days ago it was time to load that silk PLA in. Unfortunately, I've spent a part of my Saturday and my whole Sunday on trying to print a temp tower. The first layer and brim look good and seem well sticked to the hot bed then a few layers higher the model's right corners start to unstick from the bed and eventually lose all adhesion and screw the print. With the regular PLA I managed to print a pretty clean medium size Gangar/Venom without going through any testing prints after running into a few fails. I wanted to take the extra steps this time with the silk PLA but I can't even print a temp tower it's frustrating.

[@Darkwingdad]

Is it a glass bed on your printer?

[@Kr0niXa]

@@Darkwingdad It's the bed that came with the FLSun Super Racer which looks like a glass bed with some sort of carbon sticker covering it.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@Kr0niXa have you tried using brim for adhesion & what’s your bed temp at?

[@Kr0niXa]

My tests started with 0.2mm height and my last few tests were on 0.15mm height.

[@Kr0niXa]

@@Darkwingdad My reply to your question didn't go through. I use brim, even went up to 16mm brim with concentric bottom layer. I've tried from 60 to 50 hot bed. My fan speed starts at 0% and goes up to 40% after a few layers.

[@peebs2424]

Can a lot of these setting adjustments be used for PLA+ or is this specific to silk?

[@Darkwingdad]

100% these can be used for pla & pla+ just run temp & retraction tests for your pla+

[@peebs2424]

@@Darkwingdad when would prefer to use silk vs PLA/PLA+ or vice versa. I noticed you swap for different builds.

[@Darkwingdad]

@@peebs2424 silk is great for items you don’t plan on sanding & painting, of course you can but if I want to build something that has a great finish with minimal visible pla lines ill go silk. I like use pla/pla+ if I’m sanding bc it’s more durable in the sanding process & ultimately cheaper. From a cost pov it’s silly to use silk to sand & paint bc you’ll need more infill as it’s a more delicate thermoplastic & your painting over that beautiful shine AND silk is $4-$8 more per roll than standard pla

[@peebs2424]

@@Darkwingdad awesome, thanks the detailed explanation. So a couple examples: Mandalorian armour could be purely done in silk because it’s one color (metallic finish) vs iron man Armour which requires multiple colours. Is that a good way to think about it? Once again I’m brand new. Just bought my first printer (cr10s pro v2). Still dialing in the settings

[@peebs2424]

Also for cosplay is PLA+ preferred for durability and silk is more for show pieces?

[@SurPlusHD]

So when I start printing it works for about 10 minutes then it clogs my machine what should I do to fix it my nozzle is at 210 should I just increase the print speed or something else because I followed everything to the letter

[@Darkwingdad]

What type of printer? Direct drive or Bowden?

[@SurPlusHD]

i have an elagoo neptune 3 plus if that means anything @@Darkwingdad

[@Darkwingdad]

@@SurPlusHD change your retraction to 1.5/1.0 mm/s @ 40mm/s it’s clogging bc it’s a direct drive & the retraction I have is for Bowden in the video

[@SurPlusHD]

it wont let let me edit my retraction speed from 35-40 at all idk why @@Darkwingdad

[@Darkwingdad]

@@SurPlusHD what’s your distance

[@breannabui]

To be sure, I have a copper nozzle right now. Would I need a different nozzle to print with silk PLA?

[@Darkwingdad]

No, no problems there

[@breannabui]

@@Darkwingdad okay, thanks!

[@powersprouter]

Another great video! I'm using prusaslicer - some differences and no combing. Worth it to switch to cura? My printer is prusa mk3s+ (direct drive & other key differences) so I guess I can't simply replicate your settings anyway. So far my silk prints have been so-so, so I'm really looking forward to seeing if your suggestions work. Gosh your Green Goblin looks AMAZING! Anyway, thank you. Very helpful & I learned a lot.

[@Darkwingdad]

Only thing with direct drive is retraction. .5-2.0mm for distance speed should be 20-35mm/s just do a calibration test to verify.

[@powersprouter]

@@Darkwingdad Seeing the quality shine and smoothness you achieved with Gobby blew my mind - it is causing me to rethink what is possible! Thanks for all the tips, looking forward to seeing where this channel goes. Greatness already :)

[@peebs2424]

Is there a silk filament to give a shiny metal appearance? Example: Mandalorian helmet. Or can this only be achieved through paint

[@Darkwingdad]

Yes! Ziro black silk, here’s the link! amzn.to/3elf8b8 I did my sons helmet in it

[@peebs2424]

@@Darkwingdad I was gearing up for PLA+ for my first build but these videos make me want to swap to silk!

[@lauraolivos9800]

You saved 4 rolls of Silk material I was almost done with it

[@Darkwingdad]

Glad the video helped!

[@lsg1Entertainment]

I printed a half Vader mask in p e t g it's a little too big for me can I heat it and shape it to my face? I'm thinking of doing a Vader Sub-Zero crossover.

[@Darkwingdad]

You definitely can!

[@lsg1Entertainment]

@@Darkwingdad with a blow dryer?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@lsg1Entertainment yes heat gun will work too

[@agrigor1]

Are you sure enabling "Z Hop when Retracted" will not create stringing ? I believe in most Ender printers it will.

[@Darkwingdad]

Not if your retraction is on point, doesn’t matter what machine it is, if your retraction isn’t in proper you’ll get stringing,that’s why we do retraction towers.

[@agrigor1]

Another fellow has a video claiming that Z Hop can actually ruin the prints. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqnclqmYetF6f7c In this video he shows that Z hop doesn't seem to help in preventing parts from being hit by the nozzle My experience on a well calibrated ender 3 is that enabling Z Hop causes too much stringing dropping the quality of the print. Have you experienced a quality improvement with silk filaments (compared to the same print with the setting disabled) or actually helping the nozzle not hitting the parts or the supports when silk filament is involved ?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@agrigor1 z hop is essential especially for flat surfaces getting not only smooth but uniformed. If not it will drag across the surface & works best with combing not in skin. I’ve done hundreds of silk prints, never once had an issue when using z hop when retracted in silk or non silk

[@jaredpack2400]

Hey man, great work. But I do have a question...how did you get the other color on the top of the helmet? You mentioned it was different. I really like that color and would like my helmet to have the the same color all over as the top of yours. Any info is appreciated

[@Darkwingdad]

It was eyone emerald green silk. No clue why the shade of green was different, I guess the second roll was dyed different. The filament I used is in the description

[@SamuraiAdler]

Hello, great videos, I'm still getting a slight failure, I used your recommended settings and I can see two issues: 1.-I seem to get more material on each layer than needed: I printed the benchy and the bottom letters are super thin like if the material was pushed outwards of its line. My e-steps are correct. 2.-On the overhang areas specially the front tip of the ship, the very corner curls up with each layer, which later gets hit by the nozzle and brakes the print in some areas. Any tips on how to avoid these? Thank you very much!

[@Darkwingdad]

What combing are you using? Enable zhop when retracted with a distance of .2 to .28 Did you do a temp tower? What are your nozzle wipe settings set at?

[@fullstoplx5574]

Is it possible to paint over silk prints and they still look smooth?

[@Darkwingdad]

You can but you’ll need to sand still, a lot of silk looking so smooth is the reflectiveness. Layer lines are still there just ledss noticeable

[@fullstoplx5574]

I thought it might have been, thank you for confirming though

[@devilik3692]

i have issue with overhangs with silk pla ... tried slower more fan less temp it got better but still... wasted plenty of it and seems mostly with silver

[@Darkwingdad]

What’s the issue you’re having?

[@devilik3692]

@@Darkwingdad its warping on some edges or corners ,have 5015 fan that i ran at 40-50% with pla+ but silk silver is warping with it at 100% still, also 220 maybe a bit hot though lowering it didnt seem to improve much, i also normally print at 80mm/s had to drop it to 40 on outer and inner walls and got some improvement maybe less of all, but that print already taking 2 days lol although i wasted more time and filament with warping failures

[@Darkwingdad]

@@devilik3692 have you tried changing the support top distance? If it’s too close that’s a sign. Also what is your infill and top layers at? Too thin or not enough will warp

[@devilik3692]

@@Darkwingdad yea i did , lowered it and still same places somehow lift up and then either duct or probe will get it , think certain places get less cooling due to specific pattern head follows, just from watching it. ill try dropping temp with that lowered speed will try on tower with overhangs , thought maybe cutting model and rotating a bit , though wanted as one piece since cant see layers unless it warps, its 0.12 height, solid bottom at 3 and top 4, ideamaker slicer, 2 walls 0.4, its mostly on rounded shape, printing t800 skull

[@Darkwingdad]

@@devilik3692 if using a .4 nozzle your wall should be 1.2 @ 3

[@TheBrodalorian]

This video has been really helpful! Especially loved the explanation on combing. I'm curious, what settings might be significantly different if printing PLA+ versus Silk?

[@Darkwingdad]

Honestly 90% of what I covered can be applied to pla & pla+ especially with temperatures. Temp/retraction tests are so important. Many people don’t find justice in the extra print time that combing, coasting, jerk/acc control offer because they are just going to sand and prep, which I totally get, so that is really your call. Things like ironing aren’t really needed but even in my raw prints I use combing within infill or not in skin, I’ve seen a significant reduction in zits,underextrusion and imperfections that saves me time using body fillers,puttys and repeat sanding. So happy to hear these are helping, the only thing you’ll lose out on using these for pla is it’ll take longer to print but less time to prep! Happy printing & thanks for watching!

[@bojanilic4705]

What model of 3D printer did you use?

[@Darkwingdad]

Cr10 mini & ender 5 plus

[@Kaos10101001]

Do u have a better look at ironing settings I just turned it on didn't see a temp setting

[@Darkwingdad]

I’ll be covering ironing more in part 3, there is no temp change, it operates at what temp your printing at

[@Kaos10101001]

@Darkwingdad awesome and thanks was confused on that 👍

[@Darkwingdad]

@@Kaos10101001 flow,jerk,acceleration & a few other settings can be enabled I’ll cover more in the next video

[@Kaos10101001]

@@Darkwingdad awesome thanks

[@54wannabeangel]

As a "Mature" woman who gets confused by all the bells and whistles, but loves to make 3D things on her printers, I would love it if someone could put all these tips and settings into a Cura profile that I could just upload into Cura. I tried to find everything, but I couldn't.

[@Darkwingdad]

I will have a Google drive link for this profile up soon

[@54wannabeangel]

@@Darkwingdad I soooooooo appreciate this!!

[@Darkwingdad]

Christmas might have come early, see if this works, i didnt want to keep ya hanging drive.google.com/drive/u/1/my-drive

[@54wannabeangel]

@@Darkwingdad, I opened this and nothing is there?

[@Darkwingdad]

try it now

[@1937Brett]

Retraction for direct drive? Still 6mm

[@Darkwingdad]

1/1.5 @40

[@Novacasa88]

I tried using ironing and the print had holes and clogged the junction between the direct drive feeder and the nozzle every time until I increased the retraction speed but still had really bad quality issues. Any tips?

[@Darkwingdad]

These retraction settings are for Bowden, with direct drive it’s different. You’ll definitely want to do a calibration test, direct drive retraction distance is typically 0.5-2.0mm speed 25-35mm/s but do a retraction test to verify. The reason it’s clogging is 6.0mm is far too high of a retraction for the gear drive and it cannot retract it down fast enough. Lower the retraction distance and you should be ok

[@cos2mes]

What about cooling?!

[@Darkwingdad]

I am doing part 3 editing now. The main focus on that will be supports,infill density tips of supports,positioning/cooling the model, touch a bit on nozzle settings & size & new settings in cura!

[@daynafost]

where is part 3?

[@Darkwingdad]

In progress

[@daynafost]

@Darkwingdad could you possibly do a video on polycarbonate filament. I am having a bitch of a time. Also I am returning the silky four color filament because it is from 2.03 to 1.67 thickness, could you tell me if there is a 3 or 4 filament that is a good quality and won't clog and ruin my nozzle?

[@Darkwingdad]

@@daynafost what colors you looking for just a general color gradient chsnge?

[@daynafost]

@@Darkwingdad i found a silk that was 4 colors throughout

[@Darkwingdad]

@@daynafost any colors in particular?

[@asulliv1954]

Why is there no subscribe to this page I want to see lights,sound,action!!Too Kool For You Tube call Disney!!

[@Darkwingdad]

Lol 😂

[@1937Brett]

Not sure if its the camera carnt even see the the layer lines lol

[@bojanilic4705]

Dimensions?

[@chrishalstead8893]

SUBBED I am ....

[@fernandofernando6229]

parece um COSPLAY não uma réplica DO FILME

[@UP209D]

man, you dont really need to have the mask look like green goblin, you are green goblin yourselves

[@Darkwingdad]

Ummm lol

[@ironmanironman6727]

Art Attack Vicente Van Coco

[@fernandofernando6229]

os olhos ficaram muito feio , e essa coisa na boca que não tem nada a ver ,