Datsun 120Y | Points and condenser.

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

Drove a 1975 120Y 4 speed manual 4 door saloon for 200,000km (28k to 228k km). The bore was deglazed with a hone at 180k. (That cross hatching was still good just like this car in the vid).. New Japanese piston rings on the old pistons; clutch replaced then as a precaution (Preventative Maintainance) as it was as 2/3 worn.... Valve stem seals needed replacing at every 80k km (large puff of smoke on acceleration after decelerating especially long down hills) Sold it to a family after 11 years of faithful service... 100 mile commute at beginning and end of every week kept the oil in good condition..... brakes lasted 60k km (used right pedal lots more than middle pedal ) Tyres good for 60k km (155 size fabric radials swapped out for 175 steelbelts) Cruising 100kmh @4,000 rpm....I used to cruise @5k revs after warming the engine for 10km coming out of the city/town..... I had two 100watt Cibie rally lights out front for 1 km visibility at night..... the alternator coped no problem with them plus the two 75 watt 7 inch headlights I swapped in..... The small hose connencting the rear of the block to the heater core broke one day....replace that as PM as it costs little but can wreck your water pump when it blows...head did not warp though. Neat car now worth a mint as an example of "Old Skool" car.....

[@cliveprocter3698]

Setting the contacts points dwell angle is much more accurate than just setting the gap. I'm sure you already have a dwell meter function on one of your multimeters and it only takes a few mins to check. Keep up the good work, enjoying watching your videos.

[@SeasideGarage]

Yes! I have a dwell gauge but I only use it on old points normally :)

[@bencem.1862]

True, just for the record: as long as nothing is worn out of shape, the 2 things correlate, so if you set the gap, the angle should be within spec too. They basically give you a proxy to the angle with the gap, so the average Joe can set it with basic tools. Of course with an old car, it's definitely a good idea to check both :)

[@christophermarshall5765]

I’m pretty much an expert on this and never had a problem with the dwell angle using feelers to set the gap. After I set the points using feeler gauges, I check the dwell angle with a meter, and the angle is usually dead on.

[@eggy1962]

I had the pleasure of driving a 120y back in 79, just the one occasion,compared to the vauxhall chevette and morris marina it was night and day ahead in driving pleasure being light and precise.

[@steverandall5814]

Points, plugs and condenser...the yearly old-school tune-up every 12K miles. This brought back a lot of memories, like using the cover of a matchbook to set the points gap on the side of the road when the positioning screws backed off. Other than a little grime, probably from a leaky 44-year-old valve cover gasket, that car is in beautiful condition!

[@barryphillips7327]

Nowadays cheap easy fix reliable too Electronic Ignition, set and Forget!!!!

[@steverandall5814]

@@barryphillips7327 Better in every possible way! I just put a CDI ignition in a 1978 moped because I hate messing around with points.

[@SeasideGarage]

Its one of the fun thing about old cars IMO... the tinkering along the way... If course in daily use it can be a bit tiresome.. ;)

[@alancourtenay2475]

Personal experience with running a Saab 99GL: I used a feeler gauge to set the initial contact gap, but then used Dwell measurement to get it exact. Despite using Bosch condensers I experienced a high failure rate (symptom: the car would start to misfire, cured instantly with a new condenser). Misfire would also occur when the coil temperature got too high, this was a result of just one HT lead with very high resistance (mega-ohms). Since then I have always checked the resistance of HT leads, even if they appear good on the outside.

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

I used to make my own copper wire cored leads for everything... but they had a suppressor spark plug cap.... otherwise the radio "hash" interference would overwhelm the radio reception... Ditto a capacitor on the output of the alternator... whine whine whine if that went out..

[@alancourtenay2475]

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq Although none of my cars have a radio, I still use conventional leads.

[@peterjones2845]

I owned one these coupes many years ago ,loved it

[@ShaunMurray63]

Nice fix there Seppo , points condensers and coils , pain in the @rse , merry christmas and a happy new year and all the best for your channel in 2023.

[@marcinbujok7388]

Great fix! I like the look of the valve cover on these engines. The sound when reving is quite pleasing😄

[@SeasideGarage]

Its a lovely sounding engine/exhaust!

[@iamthefatstig]

Another great video. Vrolijk Kerstfeest to you and your family.

[@harryharker9564]

I had one of these in about 1975 it was second hand and rusty as heck ,I had to put new wings on but it ran absolutely perfect I had never had a car so smooth and the brakes were phenomenal.

[@dandandan389]

I think you are fast becoming my favourite KZbin channel!

[@SeasideGarage]

:D now that's a great compliment to start my Christmas day! Thanks !

[@ianchristie7292]

Really enjoy your videos. I have recently become a patreon a d looking forward to seeing my name on the list at the end of your new videos and of course look forward to seeing all your videos from the past and in the future. Merry xmas and a good 2023 when it comes. I live in Edinburgh Scotland.

[@SeasideGarage]

Hi Ian! You are not registered on patronen. Are you sure you become one? You can contact me on [e-mail] and I can try to guide you :)

[@ianchristie7292]

@@SeasideGarage Hi thanks. I'll try again. My phone has a mind of it's own sometimes! Ian

[@SeasideGarage]

@@ianchristie7292 follow the link under the video to go to the Patreon page :)

[@broomad]

Merry Christmas !!!! Thanks for all the great videos !!!

[@SeasideGarage]

Thanks for watching and supporting ! :)

[@metalman4141]

Brilliant, merry Christmas to you

[@timhancock6626]

Ah, the days when you didn't have to dismantle half the car to get at things. I used to find Sparkrite electronic ignition units in cars in scrapyards and pay £1 for them. They took the current away from the points and just made them a switch, and boosted the spark. They did work after a fashion. Whether they did any good I don't know, but for £1 I didn't care 😆

[@ianchristie7292]

Thanks

[@SeasideGarage]

Thank you Ian. But this is not Patreon but a direkt donation via KZbin. Follow this link for Patreon www.patreon.com/SeasideGarage I will refund you there :)

[@ianchristie7292]

Confused the link says I already have a patreon account. Is that referring to the one I used in error. Help!!!

[@SeasideGarage]

@@ianchristie7292 on that page you should be able to become a member af seaside garage with your Patreon account :) It's some complicated stuff! ;) Happy holidays by the way!

[@makerepairbin]

The ignition circuit has a resistor in it . on start up it is bypassed to give 12v to the coil after start it feeds the coil with 6-9 v if this resistor has a problem the points will burn and get hot. Check the voltage to the coil with the engine running if it 12v there is a problem.

[@SeasideGarage]

Good point! I will check :)

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

@@SeasideGarage Also check that the coil itself is an 8 volt coil..... when the dropping resistor is bypassed when the starting circuit is activated, even with the starter mortor turning over a cold engine... the 12 volt battery supplies at least 10VDC to the 8 VDC coil... thus 120% of the "normal" running voltage..... which is why Datsuns start instantly no matter what..... so the ballast resistor is feeding the 8 volt coil at all times other than when starting....

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

Also check that the coil itself is an 8 volt coil..... when the dropping resistor is bypassed when the starting circuit is activated, even with the starter motor turning over a cold engine... the 12 volt battery supplies at least 10VDC to the 8 VDC coil... thus 120% of the "normal" running voltage..... which is why Datsuns start instantly no matter what..... so the ballast resistor is feeding the 8 volt coil at all times other than when starting....and there needs to be a diode in the line from the starter circuit to the ballast coil to stop constant12VDC being back fed to the ballast coil under normal running conditions....

[@SeasideGarage]

Great info! thanks!

[@christophermarshall5765]

When the condenser fails, the sign is excessive arcing at the points, & the contacts often turn blue. Another thing to remember is points ignition are negatively switched, meaning the negative coil terminal is to the distributor. Best way to rectify is replace both. Provided you have a set of accurate feeler gauges, you can set the dwell very close by setting the points gap. Most common is 0.012"-0.016". Set at 0.014", and you should be very close to specs. Trust me on this, as it is a job I've done more times than I care to remember. Before installing points, clean the contact faces with brake cleaner, or other solvent, as the contacts have a protective coating on them. Once installed, smear the distributor cam with high melting point grease. If this is not done, it will squeal.

[@SeasideGarage]

thanks for the input! :) Helps a lot!

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

Set the points gap on new points slightly looser (edit). as the fibre heel which rides on the cam will wear down over time...even if you put lots of grease on it. Legend has it that a jeweller got sick of points wearing electrically from spark erosion so he made a solid silver set of contacts and fitted them to the rest of the contacts springs etc.. End of problem....😁

[@christophermarshall5765]

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq wrong. You set new points slightly looser. As the heel of the points wears down, the gap gets smaller, not wider. I used to set the points in my car that had them at 0.014”. I then reset them after a few thousand miles. The car I drive now has no points in the ignition system.

[@christophermarshall5765]

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq wrong. You set new points slightly looser. As the heel of the points wears down, the gap gets smaller, not wider. I used to set the points in my car that had them at 0.014”. I then reset them after a few thousand miles. The car I drive now has no points in the ignition system.

[@Mads_Villebro]

En tidlig julegave fra Garagen ved havet! 👍🙏

[@topspoke]

Nice work. My dad had one of these back in the 70s. It was an estate in bright orange. Unfortunately, I customised the glove box lid with the cigarette lighter, inspired by the Olympics logo. He was not happy! He chopped it in for a 180B (Bluebird) in the late 70s.

[@SeasideGarage]

Haha ! I can imaging the proud child showing his creation.... And the not so proud dad...

[@topspoke]

@@SeasideGarage yeah, he still reminds me about it even to this day!😂

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

@@topspoke Buy him an Audi glovebox lid...with the rings on it...for his birthday????

[@topspoke]

@@JohnSmith-yv6eq 🤣

[@martincrocker7154]

Happy Christmas

[@eggy1962]

Back in those days it was always wise to carry a spare set of points and condenser in the glovebox,that way you could fix within ten minutes at roadside….without assistance, it was a frequent thing on British cars, my minis metros and princess had appetite for them.

[@mikeymike3240]

That’s a healthy sounding engine man, a few more tweaks and she will be sweet.

[@paulbennell3313]

It might need a new diaphragm in the accelerator pump and then once the mixture and timing are adjusted correctly I reckon it'll run like new. It's a Datsun, those engines are unstoppable!

[@SeasideGarage]

No diaphragm in these... but a plunger system... I think I have a gasket issue between to to halves actually.. :)

[@paulbennell3313]

@@SeasideGarage Even more simple!

[@garethdavies7326]

Have you got a spark plug thread chaser? Might just sort it if the damage is minor.

[@freashtoast1684]

kinda looks like the oil or grease that was on the points may have cause the discolouration? im learning too but its some food for thought

[@TheStobb50]

That’s something about old cars I haven’t missed points and rotor arm excetera, me with the help a friend completely dismantled a mini engine to get to the root of the problem the engine was surging and pausing surging and pausing and stalling it took us days to work out it was the condenser it was very annoying. Also the Datsun engine was originally based on the A serious engine from Austin Morris and some of the parts are interchangeable

[@SeasideGarage]

I understands point and ignition pretty well now.... But condenser is still a bit of a mystery...

[@lettuceman3848]

Kommer det fler moped videoer? Jeg vet at ikke alle er så interesserte i moped, men jeg hadde likt å sett en video med hele moped samlingen

[@SeasideGarage]

ok så.... det kommer en NU! ;)

[@lettuceman3848]

@@SeasideGarage 😁😁

[@ruaraidhmcdonald-walker9524]

Did you fit a new rotor arm too? Leads can still leak even if they’re still working, they can weaken the spark. PS your English is superb so I don’t want to criticise but it’s “distributor” not distribRAYtor 😉

[@SeasideGarage]

Yes ! New one is fitted.... Yea new wires would have been ideal... But the work! Haha yes.. it's one of those words I have a hard time changing how to pronounce...

[@ruaraidhmcdonald-walker9524]

@@SeasideGarage Hehe cool. It certainly fired up a treat. Try disTRIB utor. That might help.

[@steverandall5814]

@@SeasideGarage Being a typical American, I only speak English (with a California accent) ...and not very well according to spell and grammar check. I regret never learning a foreign language, other than a little Spanish. Your English is 99.9% perfect, so don't be too hard on yourself. There are many variations between British, American and Australian English in both spelling and pronunciation too. When I visited London in 1989, I tried having a conversation with a Scotsman, but our different accents were so thick we could barely understand each other...yet we were both speaking English.

[@barryphillips7327]

Silicon HT have a limited lifespan IF they are silicon and more than 5 years old BIN them!! Points and condensor used to be Cheap years ago Now they are quite expensive here anyway ( few dollars 80s 90s, now $20+++ ) Good spark plugs and good battery etc, in the long run SAVES you money and FAR more reliable!! NGK are GOOD!!!! These early Datsun engines were basically a copy of Austin/Morris A series ie Mini etc, except Datsun IMPROVED the breed better breathing etc. They went pretty well in their day!! Some in rallying light weight rear drive perky engine!!

[@SeasideGarage]

I had a Morris Minor next to it in the garage... so similar those engines.... We were actually tempted to engine swap the little thing! ;)

[@JohnSmith-yv6eq]

@@SeasideGarage Do it...and the gearbox as well..... Then you'll have a genuine 60hp in the Morry...not 20hp....

[@mucniif]

Did you check timing with a strobe?

[@SeasideGarage]

Nope... my strobe gun would not work.... Need to fix or replace it.

[@christophersmith7714]

What engine is in that 120? Looks like the J15 in my Datsun 620 truck.

[@rustino666]

Distribulator. 🙂 Thought I was watching Derek from VGG for a minute there.

[@user-generalnazi]

Where I can get the catalogue for this car can you give me the site ❤️❤️

[@cotiti2]

un,dos,tres,cuatro, jaja muy bueno, Merry Christmas

[@SeasideGarage]

Feliz navidad!

[@RCoster47]

Somehow this video is missing from your 'Datsun 120Y' playlist.

[@SeasideGarage]

not anymore! thanks..

[@danchristiansen8419]

Hejsa . lige et godt råd, du bliver nød til at stille tænding, når du har justeret på platinerne.

[@danhornechristiansen8755]

bare lige et lille råd, husk altid at stille tændingen når du justerer /skifter platiner

[@SeasideGarage]

Tak. De er sat statisk i denne omgang da min tændingspistol er død.... Men det skal gøres! :)

[@chris-tf8ud]

Simplicity, changed clutch in car park

[@freashtoast1684]

you more than likely already know but if you want to clean the engine try oven cleaner :) or try toilet bowl cleaner also

[@SeasideGarage]

Aluminum is discolored by oven cleaner... but still effective stuff!

[@douglasnothstein5606]

Maybe a Boeing worker put that valve cover on?

[@twocvbloke]

Certainly has that fun "farty" sound to it that modern cars just cannot replicate, and no, chavvy ricers don't count, they sound awful... :P