Hide 3D print layer lines with Baby Powder and UV resin

[@DaveRigDesign]

If you want to see the this process used on a helmet and then painted with automotive paint, check out this video I just uploaded kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYGud4CnZa2co5o

[@dekopuma]

I am impressed by your dedication to that glove.

[@marshalltucker9690]

the little glove that could

[@geauxracerx]

This comment became more and more epic the longer I watched. Bravo.gif

[@OdiumTV]

we'va all been there...

[@DaveRigDesign]

When the glove started to rip I was going to replace it, but then though it would be funny to let it progressively deteriorate through the video and see if anyone noticed :)

[@roymitchell1721]

Hmmm, on the other hand..

[@Cgoon009]

No click bait title - Check. Straight to the main topic, no drawn out intro - Check. Badass 80's vaporwave soundtrack - Check. This video is a certified banger.

[@GreenFox1505]

Yeah, it's just baby powder and resin. And sanding. and paint. and clear coat. and more sanding and more coat, just for good measure. not click bait at all!

[@DaveRigDesign]

well, after the the 1st 3 coats and sanding you could probably stop there depending on the surface finish you are going for. If it's a matte finish that will be weathered that's all the work needed. If you want a super smooth high gloss finish, you need to put in the work.

[@WorldWide3133]

Humanity agrees, but The Algorithm will have none of this!!!

[@bryanteger]

Yeah bro the synthwave hooked me right in for the ride!

[@Acheiropoietos]

I was going to whinge about the soundtrack, but you convinced me otherwise 😊

[@vinanderson2535]

Tbh if you put a little time into sanding the print before using the resin, there's no need to use baby powder at all. This is the exact process I use for making pokeballs..print, sand, paint on resin, sand again. It takes no more than a couple thin coats of resin to get the print completely smooth - with no b powder - smooth enough infact to be able to then chrome paint the pokeball to a mirror finish that can resemble electroplating.

[@DaveRigDesign]

ya, normally I would sand the print 1st but wanted to test a worst case. Thickening the resin seemed to make it easier to spread and run less then straight resin. I probably could have stopped after 3 coats but was trying to use up the remaining resin.

[@KucykoManiak]

What paint brand are you using for that chrome effect and do you have any examples?

[@DaveRigDesign]

I mixed metallic silver paint with the blue to get the effect. I added amazon links to the paint I used in the description

[@robertfousch2703]

I’ll add one more thing you can do….use card scrapers or heavy utility blades to scrape the print shaving it. It’s a serious game changer. I use the sand, scrape, resin, repeat and get an incredibly smooth print. One last thing…that resin likes to pool in corners or lines, so have a clean sponge or qtips ready to clear any that collects in the lines and corners.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Scraping could be tough on a curved surface but would be good on flats. Spot on with it pooling in corners, Qtips is a good idea. Would have worked better then the toothpick I was using.

[@billverine765]

Great idea. I have used corn starch to thicken resin for filling seams between printed parts but never thought of using it with the 3D resin. For a smoother paint finish try using a guide coat of either black or red primer over the grey. Just a light dusting of the 2nd color, don't need to cover. Any low spots will stay the guide coat color as you sand, and stick out like a sore thumb. High spots will burn through the guide color on the first pass. It is an old body shop trick that has been around for years.

[@pospc2]

Excellent suggestion. I do this when doing body work or larger projects. I like to use something high contrast from what I'm working on. Last time I used it on a black car I used neon green, it was what I had near by and stood out extremely well.

[@MetalheadAndNerd]

Doesn't corn starch make the coating sensitive to moisture? Wouldn't talcum work better?

[@DaveRigDesign]

It’s encases in resin and then painted so shouldn’t be a issue

[@ImmortalReaver]

You do a very thin coat of the second color immediately after the first color is dry?

[@jakefriesenjake]

​@@ImmortalReaverthere are many ways to do "guide coats". What you use depends on the project, but the most common is to use a grey "high fill, filler" primer (little thicker build than regular primer, and is made to be easy sanding and to be applied thicker) over the whole project, in 2 or 3 heavy coats. Then apply the cheapest flat black paint you can find. Then just mist it all over the project (doesn't have to have complete coverage, just speckled). Let that dry really well, then start sanding (with a block) till all the black specks are gone. If you are sanding to long in one place, but the black speckled aren't being touched, the you have a low spot. If you think that not to low, you might be able to do 2 or 3 more coats of the high fill primer in just that spot. If it's really low, add more resin or bondo or whatever. Then do the high fill primer over that and then the black speckles. Sand it again till all the black speckles are gone. If you didn't burn through all of layers of primer that you layed down, and everything is 1 color, then you can apply your top coat of paint, 2 or 3 coats. If you get good coverage, then add 2 coats of clear coat. Bingo! Other forms of guide coat is a very fine black powder made by 3m or other companies. It works great too, but is more expensive.

[@Jim-fe2xz]

In the 70's we would cover our RC airplanes with silk. We would find unscented baby powder & mix it with butyrate dope (basically a plasticized lacquer) to make a primer sealer that hid the silk weave. Worked great! Talc is often the filler in plastic body filler too.

[@JeffreyWheeless1]

i need you to have videos of this

[@shimarlie1]

The important thing was that I had an onion on my belt, which was the style at the time. They didn't have any white onions, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big yellow ones...

[@ToddElkins88]

You're not gonna mention how you FINESSED that male/female connection point. That slow-mo hookup had me deadddd. hahaha. Thanks for the video brother, very informative.

[@Rouverius]

Stopped by for 3D tips and tricks Stayed for the blacklight-rave-spinning-mushroom montages 😁 Seriously, the final results are amazing!

[@mixttime]

Interesting, basically the same idea as the filler primer but for deeper fills. I think it would probably work best to alternate sanding and filling going progressively finer grit and thinner coats respectively. Also for the detail work you want to preserve, I think filling it with some putty would be worth a try. Though then you need to be careful not to encase it in your filler coats

[@28Hobbes]

That one glove by the end 😂 "I'm tired boss."

[@DaveRigDesign]

ya... Once the glove started tearing I was going to replace it but then though I would be funny to just keep in on and let it fall apart and see if anyone notice it deteriorating as the video went on :)

[@SchwettyBawls]

Great video that shows the process perfectly. Thanks for taking the time. The painting needs a little bit of practice with proper techniques and you'll be set! Some tips I've learned from auto-body pro friends that help prevent runs and get a smoother finish: -Always start and stop your sprays off on the object -Never use the "wiggly" method to coat the part -Move in a straight line with smooth consistent speed (remembering to start and stop each line OFF of the part) Watch a couple videos on how cars are painted and you'll see what I mean.

[@russelthomson5065]

Looks really good. As mentioned in other comments, there are a few different processes that can achieve the same result. The filling method does have limitations when it comes to fine detail such a textures on a figurine for example whete it will smooth out the detail. Best to just go the slow, finer print method in this case. One other small thing. I like the idea behind the paint shaker but paint needs agitation to mix, not a centrifuge which actually separates the solids from the liquid. Great idea but needs tweak somehow. Keep up the great content!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Because the paint shaker isn't perfectly balanced its not just rotational mixing but also vibration. I saw the idea on Tested with Adam Savage where he was showing off a similar product you can buy on amazon kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYSrYp2JbquAmbM

[@Finn_Anwarunya]

He states right in the video that this would be good for large flat surfaces like helmets.

[@emrage]

one that moves as a piston and rotating slowly?

[@The_RC_Guru]

@@emrageI have a sawzall attachment for mixing can spray paint. Super effective.

[@KimmoJaskari]

Turned out great. The "proper" finishing process for clear coating is to coat, sand, coat, sand until happy - and then bring the paint back up with a polishing compound from the sanded state, not apply another layer and letting it sit. Granted, this turned out great but a polishing compound on the sanded-matte clear coat works wonders. Between the final wetsanding and then the polishing compound you get basically zero "orange peel". In fact going over the final result here with some compound and a polisher would probably still make it better.

[@falxonPSN]

Great info here. I had not heard about the last step of polishing directly from matte. A lot of the DIY videos were doing a final clear layer, THEN polishing. What you said makes a lot more sense.

[@artiem5262]

Thanks for the ideas, and a process! So far I've been doing (for years) practicals, where the second or third prototype meets the design goal and gets put into use. But it's a different story for things that are also supposed to be "pretty." More to learn, and you've helped! And thanks for wearing gloves when working with resin!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks. Most of my prints are functional. I only do pretty now and then or I would end up with too many projects cluttering my house. :)

[@erfquake1]

I've got a old, languishing PLA project that this would be a perfect application for. Thank you!

[@JB-NZ]

Was the UV resin and powder really necessary with how much sanding you did, and then filler primer... ? Could you not have just sanded and fillter primer instead? Surely you sanded off most of what you added resin wise anyway... seems like an unnecessary step.

[@Doile911]

Its entirely up to you how much overkill you want to do with afterwork. I personally only sand, and use UV resin, most of my paints are opaque, so no filler/primer is used, because they are not needed. The micro abrasions that are left after sanding make the paint stick much much nicer, so i never felt the need for primer. I also recommend using UV resin as a clear coat instead of actual clear coat if you don't have any or don't want to buy any.

[@Lady_Hiccups]

I just did a project with only sanding and filler primer, and I'd say it took a lot more work (more sanding and more primer) to try and fill in some layer lines. I also had a ton of sanding scratch marks show through my paint. I want to try this method next.

[@DaveRigDesign]

@Lady_Hiccups paint isn’t really meant to fill deep gaps. It’s intended to just fill the small scratches from sanding.

[@JB-NZ]

@@DaveRigDesign yeah exactly, and with the amount of sanding you did, what did the powder and resin even achieve, most if not all of it came off, leaving only sanding marks

[@DaveRigDesign]

If it wasn’t necessary, then I would not have done it :) Yes you could just sand the PLA until it is smooth and then use the primer to fill in the rest, but that would take 3-5 more time and effort. What looks like a lot of work is far less than if you just tried to sand the PLA alone.

[@derekalexander4030]

I understand that you wanted a rough surface to see how this works and I thank you for sharing the steps you used. So many haters, it’s crazy. You sure got a wonderful surface when you finished.

[@levih9791]

This is incredible! Definitely going to use these techniques. If you wanted to preserve the detail, you could fill in the grooves with tape, and then apply the primer/paint after taking the tape out

[@digimaks]

Hahaha, riight! You will spend whole day doing this. That's just not practical.

[@WorldWide3133]

The smoothing process was great to see! The acrylic ink solution for painting is the icing on the cake. Great not having to deal with enamel and thinner fumes to get that rich metallic finish

[@janeblogs324]

The fumes from acrylic spray cans are far worse than enamel

[@WorldWide3133]

@@janeblogs324 Who said anything about spray cans? Did you watch the video? He's spraying acrylic ink through an airbrush. What you're talking about is the propellent in what are referred to as 'rattle cans.'

[@janeblogs324]

@@WorldWide3133 the propellant isn't a concern, the thinner is. You can thin acrylic with water but decent paint aka automotive acrylic uses petroleum based thinners which are even harsher than acetone

[@WorldWide3133]

@@janeblogs324 "automotive acrylic," which also is not being used. Have fun out there!

[@drakocarrion]

You could probably avoid the detail lines getting filled by prefilling them with latex or some other masking medium prior to painting on the resin.

[@SUPERMAR10312]

The issue with that though is avoiding sealing it under the resin when you paint over it

[@drakocarrion]

@@SUPERMAR10312 An exacto will cut through resin easily if you're silly enough to cure it before removing it pre UV curing.

[@AndrossUT]

​@@SUPERMAR10312 you would have to use something that hardens and can be removed before going into the cure chamber

[@TheBlackBrickStudios]

The surface finish is gorgeous, and best of all, it's dirt cheap and easy, I love it. Not too fond of how it handles details, though, but this is going to make some projects a lot easier.

[@B0M0A0K]

That was very interesting. I have used nail varnish UV cured resin in the past with very nice results (it's way cheaper), but I never thought to add a "bulker" like baby powder. Another thing I will try out at some point. Nice work.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks :)

[@splatter_proto]

man I don't care about 3d printing but that was an absolute joy to watch, great job!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thank you very much :)

[@M1ckyMack]

I’ve seen the acetone and bondo method method many times but after it melted my plastic cup I used I was like this isn’t gonna be something I can do consistently or easily lol This right here! This is amazing! One of the best smoothing print methods I’ve seen! Thank you! Definitely gonna be trying this out thank you! ❤

[@DaveRigDesign]

Ya, not a fan of working with acetone for those reasons. Too aggressive :)

[@M1ckyMack]

@@DaveRigDesign now I’m looking into building a curing box lol seriously though this is gonna change everything! Super excited about getting super smooth finishes! Would a small Cue-tip be fine when working with smaller projects? I make keychains with my printer and I’ve never been happy with my surface quality

[@DaveRigDesign]

Qtip should be fine. Once you get the resin on the print it will try to level out.

[@M1ckyMack]

@@DaveRigDesign thanks!

[@Kyocus]

I feel refreshed and relaxed after watching this! I love the finish!

[@MrBIG4D]

Great vid. Next time try Micro Balloons instead of baby powder. Sands much easier. If you like the color of the plastic, the resin can be sanded and buffed just like car paint. I've been coating my FDM prints for a while now, just to make them water proof.

[@phenomenalfx2965]

I had never heard of micro balloons until this post. So cool!

[@Anguardia]

Just did this today after watching your video, it worked excellently! Huge thanks, I've been fussing with how to best print something, but have a solution now.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Awesome! Glad I could help :)

[@jacobthomassen5261]

Just a reminder to everyone regarding safety - use proper mask when dry sanding UV resin👍🏼👍🏼

[@gatling216]

Was hoping someone would say it. UV resin is not something to take lightly.

[@ry7hym]

👍

[@rylanyoung2018]

But take the mask off as soon as you're done? Wouldn't UV resin particles still be all over your work station unless you're literally in a clean room?

[@lilblkrose]

​@rylanyoung2018 When working with resin or any craft, even with mask, the room should be well ventilated. Also, just don't remove the mask right away until everything (work table) is cleaned up? That's usually how it works.

[@jacobthomassen5261]

@@rylanyoung2018 I strongly recommend you do your “dry” sanding outside, garage or like..

[@stevenjacobs6608]

Your 3d printed resin cure station is top notch

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks. I have a video on my channel where I build a bigger one for curing helmets and such.

[@iDoPew]

Thanks for sharing that technique! I'd definitely suggest a respirator for this.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Yup, if your in a confined space or doing a big project should defiantly wear a respirator.

[@autodidact7127]

Thank you for recommending.

[@autodidact7127]

​@@DaveRigDesignI too defiantly wear respirators 🫂

[@theBoomerDoomer]

I've seen something similar where instead of baby powder and resin, they used acetone and wood filler. Obviously, acetone isn't good for all materials, but on PLA it had the same effect. Since I haven't ventured into resin printing and don't have a UV cure setup, I'll stick my crude finishing methods. Excellent video, BTW.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks. I just posted a video about using acetone and glazing putty kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYvWhouPlLarrdE

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I’m too lazy to do this, but that looks amazing!

[@minisnmore]

Thank you so much for this. What a great solution. I use baby powder and paint for stcco and frosting in miniature, but would have never thought to use it in resin.

[@tsepash]

Great technique! For the recessed, relief areas, the hexes could be printed separately and then glued in later to preserve the detail. I understand that this is just a demonstration piece, but the method could be applied to other things. Just something to add to this method for finer detail that would not be possible otherwise.

[@drakocarrion]

Or you could just fill them with latex or some other masking medium prior to painting on the resin & scrape it out after.

[@MrDuranis]

​@@drakocarrionI had that thought too but then if you cure the resin you will probably seal it in and if you don't cure the resin it's going to be a big mess. It might be possible on some parts and maybe half curing the resin and doing it might work but I think it's going to depend a lot on the details of the peice.

[@drakocarrion]

@@MrDuranis A masking material would be visible under the resin, cured or not. You'd just need an exacto to scrape it out with.

[@Mr.Tiger.2013]

Great job! The glove is what breaks my heart, you're so attached to it.

[@knowyourjoe8826]

Was really hoping this was a brush on and cure solution that would not require sanding. That being said the outcome was nice and I suppose it may have been less sanding than would be needed otherwise. Thanks for sharing.

[@zombieno1]

if it doesn't have any details like the hexagons, you might be able warm up the resin and pour it over. Exposing it after it settles could give you a very smooth finish with no sanding.

[@DanteNava]

Looks great man, I used the same method on some Mandalorian armor I made for my son for Halloween. You can sand PLA straight, but the resin feels like it sands so much easier and smoother. For big stuff like that you can cure it in the sun as well.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks. Sanding resin is so much easier then sanding pla :)

[@justinlee810]

So I did some research: talcum powder is around 26 microns for median particle size. Corn starch is around 2mm. I understand the health concerns around talcum powder, so I thought: what's a similar, but easy to obtain powder that's around that size? Apparently arrowroot powder is around 27 microns, but it's almost twice the cost of cornstarch. I mean cornstarch is cheap, so it's not like break-the-bank more expensive, but it would be interesting to see if a finer particle size would be better or worse. As for everyone saying "just sand" the point of the video is to smooth a print without sanding. We definitely need fewer microplastics in the world, although I realize a hobby like 3D printing is at odds with that statement. Still, it's a cool solution and I would love to see more like it!

[@DaveRigDesign]

The powder is already pretty fine, don't think going any finer would give noticeable results. Possibly the thicker you make the mix the more it will matter. I wondered if just getting bulk cornstarch from a baking store would also work, it should, but not sure if it would be as fine or if the cost would be more/less since it is good grade. The bottle of baby powder was $4 I think, by far the cheapest component in the process :)

[@tbren6707]

I've never tried this, but I'd imagine going smaller may not give much more noticeable results. Seems like its purpose is too thicken the resin a bit so it can hold inside of the gaps you're trying to fill, rather than just pouring out. Also, corn starch particle size is definitely not 2mm lol. I'd guess its not far off from talcum, but not sure.

[@GRBtutorials]

Where did you get those numbers from? 2mm would be huge, like a rice grain! According to Wikipedia, corn starch is 2 to 55 microns, so in the same ballpark.

[@Sembazuru]

@@GRBtutorials the "mm" was probably a typo. justinlee probably meant 2µm (or micron), and your Wiki search seems to confirm the scale.

[@jasonkay42]

Hmmm, industrial-grade diamond powder is available in particular sizes down to 0.1 micron - and it's not as expensive as you might think. 🤔 Hmm… probably not a good idea, regardless. 😅

[@AskformeJohnT]

Just realized how mich work prep is. If this makes it any faster I'll try it

[@pixelpuppy]

nice work! If you add leveling thinner to your paint, it won't dry as fast, giving it time to level out, and you also won't need to spray as much paint. You'll get a much thinner, more even coat all around with less imperfections.

[@drauc]

I appreciate you showing it at multiple angles at every step

[@DaveRigDesign]

filming is the hardest part of the process :)

[@MrMikevida]

That UV box is cool.

[@LambchopBuilds]

That blue looks fantastic...I'm going to have to experiment with inks...thanks for the idea to get rid of layer lines.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Glad you liked the video. Adding in the metallic silver really made the Blue pop.

[@branchcovidian2001]

We need that _TOTALY TUBULAR 80s SOUNDTRACK!_

[@ry7hym]

fr

[@chudgoo]

This was great. That UV chamber was something else!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks. I made a video where I build a large scale one. Build a Huge Collapsible UV Resin Curing Box and Turntable for Cheap kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaTZgIibaZWto80

[@archangeloliver]

If you're going to be using filler primer and wet sanding and all this post processing anyways, how is this better than just using spot putty on the rough parts to begin with?

[@DaveRigDesign]

Speed mostly, and the speed scales with the surface area you are covering. I have a video here doing the same thing with putty kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqnHm3mIeq-jgdU It works well also but takes longer to apply and you have to wait hrs for it to dry between coats. But putty would be better on smaller areas and around details you want to preserve.

[@piratekingjosh]

This video was extremely helpful for getting back into cosplay. No more fiberglass resin and trying to vent it out of a basement! You did a really good job of explaining but not overexplaining to death on the details, plus who doesn't appreciate some 80's synth music?

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks 🙏 should be great for big stuff like cosplay items. I just made a video using this on a Helmet.

[@ohheyitspaul]

Can you do a drop test on this from say 4-5ft? Just curious how the resin will hold up in a drop if it'll spider crack on the surface of the print or be relatively durable

[@dirkpitt2624]

Absolutely incredible. I love how many ideas this video gave me. Not only smoothing the surface but also your diy UV curing chamber and the absolute dedication, down to the last bit of the glove. I do the same. Well done!

[@2degucitas]

That music had me expecting a lady in legwarmers to come in dancing.

[@meadmaker4525]

Looks like this beats the heck out of tens of hours of constant sanding and Bondo trying to achieve the same result. The latter certainly works, but this looks like the "smarter, not harder" way to do it.

[@DaveRigDesign]

That was my thoughts. You get to the same results but it’s easier to apply, infinite working time and then cures instantly when hit with he light. Only reason I see bondo being better is if you have deep gaps you want to fill in, but that’s a bad idea with bondo also as it will most likely crack.

[@lesgobrandon9826]

Might want to be careful with the first from the resin. I'm sure some types are bad if inhaled. Wet sanding should minimise the risk from the dust.

[@soacker25]

If the resin is fully cured its not more harmfuld than wooddust isnt it?

[@lesgobrandon9826]

@@soacker25 not sure how bad wood dust is, but resin dust isn't good in the lungs.

[@DaveRigDesign]

No dust is “good” for your lungs, but the dust kicked into the air had sanding is negligible unless you throw it around and resin is inert once cured. If you want bad try cutting MDF on a table saw :)

[@tiladx]

If I hadn't watched the whole process, I would swear that was made with polyurethane like a bowling ball. Great work!

[@yamlcase230]

Thank you for giving me the excuse to never print < 0.2mm again

[@thehudsonforge71]

Nice! I've tried just raw resin coating but never considered adding a thickener! Will certainly be trying this.

[@aware2action]

Or just print it in ABS with an adaptive layer height followed by acetone vapor polish for a few mins. Done right, no resolution lost, while getting a glossy finish, that also strengthens the layer adhesion. No worries of UV degradation(UV resin degrades over time) either. Much cheaper than UV resin. Just some 💭

[@DaveRigDesign]

Could, but if you are printing big you need a big heated chamber to print ABS reliably. Also once painted Resin degradation isn't a issue as its protected. PLA is the much easier option to use. Vapor smoothing get more difficult the bigger the print also. This process is definitely better for large scale prints and less optimal for small scale things. I don't think I would try it of anything smaller than the print I tested with.

[@aware2action]

@@DaveRigDesign Yes, you are spot on. Printing ABS without a heated chamber is tough, but with printers like Qidi X Max3, should not be an issue. Also the Acetone chamber needs to be custom designed(simple paper towel dip will not work well, apart from taking too much time). For smaller parts, Sanding or Sand blasting, followed by UV resin coat(clear 2 part epoxy? might work as well), is the way to go, except for the effort involved.

[@jonathandavis3754]

Any tips on ABS vapor smoothing chamber design?

[@DaveRigDesign]

I haven't tried it as I don't do much work with ABS, but it seems @aware2action may have some suggestions :)

[@aware2action]

@@jonathandavis3754 All you need to know is the boiling point of Acetone. Ensure the vessel is made of conductive material and temperature controlled precisely. Have the lid to be isolated from the vessel, but have a lot of specific heat capacity, so that it keeps cooling vapor to maintain concentration. Also have some risers not to let part float in Acetone. Dose a tiny amount few ml, time it, tune accordingly. The idea is to build enough concentration, but not too much, otherwise too much softening and loss of detail. Duration is also critical. Making a recyclable chamber is possible, but advanced. Also use PPE while using the setup, and no open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Better be safe than sorry. That said, it should be fairly easy to modify some off the shelf cookware to achieve the results😉, if not dealing with large objects.

[@JohnDoe-el5ir]

Didn’t know your method. You can also adjust final layers height to some extent, BL has such option. It gives some improvement as well.

[@michalpbielawski]

Nice video, great explanation of the process. Turn the music down, though. It's way too loud compared to your speech.

[@julialewis8794]

The nicest thing about this process is that even tho i don't have the fancy set up that you have i can purchase a 3d print from someone else and add the cornstarch and resin mixture myself after the fact to clean it up

[@Bartetmedia]

I think you can avoid all that sanding at the end if the print is sanded a bit before adding the resin.

[@DaveRigDesign]

After priming the amount of sanding depends on the paint finish you want. If you are using a matte finish you don't need to same as much or after sanding the 1st primer coat. But if you want a high gloss mirror finish it is required. I didn't even take it far enough as you can see the orange peeling in the clear coat still. More wet sanding and clear coats then buffing after the final sanding is needed for a smooth mirror finish

[@Antassium]

After having sanded PLA as well as sanding resin... I can confidently say sanding PLA is ass. I'll never so so again if I can avoid it.🥴

[@vivienlynn2585]

Really interesting! Makes me wonder what the result would be if the resin or resin-powder mix was sprayed directly on the printed object. Spray, cure, repeat

[@lunkwill336]

Reminder: Epoxy resin is toxic and allergenic. ALWAYS use gloves when handling it, on both hands. A prime example of why would be in this video when mixing it (without gloves) and some of the resin spilled. Cool result though.

[@DaveRigDesign]

yup, you don't want to get it on yourself, it can be messy. I've heard both arguments though. Wear gloves so you don't contact it, but then you can get it on your hands and not realize it and spread it around, or don't wear gloves and you know as soon as you contact it and you can wash it off.

[@xiar5546]

I work with food where gloves are optional due to the fact you can touch something and not realize it with gloves on. I work the same way with resin. Large amounts of resin gloves are required. Smaller amounts of resin. Gloves if I wanna or just ensure I wash my hands afterwards.

[@DaveRigDesign]

right, some common sense also needs to be applied. If you work with resin in large volumes every day you should take all the necessary precautions. If you use it once and are careful not to slop it everywhere you will be fine. Amount of exposure needs to be factored in

[@CookieTube]

This can't be stated enough, ESPECIALLY in the 3D printing community! It baffles me how people are so casual about it. That is, it is understandable in a way though... it is simple lack of knowledge and the sheer amount of BAD examples on KZbin, even from reputable channels!! Out of the hundreds of videos I've seen about working with resin, 3D printing related, only a tiny handful state the health dangers and proper protection every time. In all other videos it is 'free for all' (because they just copy what the see on other channels). And then you get people like that one comment above who suggest airbrushing resin... I mean.... WTF! Common sense isn't common.

[@TheMiniJunkie]

A lot of steps but the result is undeniably great!

[@PricklyMe]

Your airbrush technique needs refining. You should start spraying away from the piece and at steady speed sweep across the piece. Starting the spray directly on the piece risks throwing globs of paint on the initial burst. To get better lacker finishes its worth doing a mist coat wait a moment until tacky and then applying a wet coat. The mist coat will provide something for the wet coat to adhere and will assist in avoiding runs. Keep the wet cut fairly thin, again wait briefly and apply a second. Done right you wont need any sanding.

[@NiGHTSaturn]

Once we have the best solution to recycle plastic waste in prints and redo filament for not too expensive, this method and final paint sounds like such a great solution to reuse waste!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Update: New video comparing Resin to Resin with Baby Powder added here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i3e1k4edaJyHmpo Some people asked for still images to get a better look at the surface finish so I put a few image over on the community page www.youtube.com/@DaveRigDesign/community I also put some pictures of the red dome from the glazing putty video so you can compare the difference. To take a look and comment back here :)

[@startide]

Thanks for the straightforward video ! That's great to watch :) PS : airbrushing with a smartwatch, you sir are confident in your skills I see !

[@vahnta]

@DaveRigDesign So is the corn starch just a thickener for the resin, so it can be painted on and not run off?

[@DaveRigDesign]

Exactly

[@vahnta]

@@DaveRigDesign thanks. Makes me wonder what other thickeners would work.

[@DaveRigDesign]

It seems there are products made for this. Glass Microspheres or glass bubbles seems to be a product used to thicken resin in boat building.

[@justinhill9915]

With all of the time it takes to post process this it just makes more sense to print at a higher resolution to minimize the layer lines and not have to do nearly as much post processing.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Ya, most people think that cuz they are just looking at the dome test object. What happened when you print a helmet or other large cosplay pieces where decreasing the layer height adds days of print time and you still need to post process after that.

[@takliu4518]

Great Idea! Only one suggestion when you spray never start and end spraying on the model. This is to stop the bits accumulating on your spray can nozzles speckling your model. (a tip from a pro).

[@GoergeSkiller]

Well thats a ton of work to get rid of layer lines, also expensive. Most people are not gonna want to do that, layer lines are a flaw of 3D printing. One day layer lines will be invisible....please don't personally attack me becayse of my opinion. I will wait until 3D printing techs work out the bugs.

[@DaveRigDesign]

How expensive is it?

[@uncmonky0]

Fantastic idea! Has anyone else pointed out that Bondo itself is basically 2-part epoxy thickened with talc?

[@GoergeSkiller]

This is the opinion of most people I know, ** Layer lines suck. I will wait until they are gone, I never liked 3D printed products because the layer lines make them look cheap and low quality. Also the plastic is a world killer. People are not gonna pay high prices for 3d printed stuff unless its utilitarian.

[@awes_designs]

Love the video, only criticism would be your spray can technique, I'd go for longer strokes from further away, these normally give a nicer coat with more even finish. Additionally with the airbrushing coat, you can use broader strokes. Love the video overall though, unique and helpful technique!!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks, glad you liked it. I’ll keep your suggestion in mind for my next painting project.

[@DavZell]

Interesting video, but 457% too much music. Thanks for posting this!

[@fattmoleyTv]

Would have loved to seen it painted directly after a light sanding from the resin application. I know filler paint and wet sanding alone can get to the smooth level shown but really was invested in seeing where the resin alone got us as a community.

[@ShakeyLimbs]

This channel tries to censor your opinion by making personal insults. 3D printing still sucks, its not there yet....maybe in 10 years it will be perfect. I'm not spending hours and $$$ to get rid of layer lines !!!!! That's my opinion. 3D houses are not mainstream

[@DaveRigDesign]

Hahahahhahaha If I wanted to censer your comments I would have just deleted it instead of pointing out you’re mistaken.

[@ShakeyLimbs]

​​@@DaveRigDesignyou trying to make profit from 3D printing on patreon, Twitter, youtube, etc etc. Thats your gig. You are biased and too sensitive. Stop attacking people's comments because you don't like them. That's bad business!!!!!

[@MauroDiaz-gu3zn]

Average ender 3 user

[@Lethalmuffin87]

That airbrush slowmo was downright ZESTY lol Excellent work brother, and excellent soundtrack 👌

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks, can’t have a 80’s themed soundtrack without a slomo sequence :)

[@ShakeyLimbs]

3D printing still sucks

[@DaveRigDesign]

Cool story :)

[@ShakeyLimbs]

@@DaveRigDesign facts. Layer lines. Wasted pla dumps. Long print times. Failure rates. Cost per print. Its a fantasy right now, maybe in 10 years it will work....just like solar panels suck.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Were you dropped on your head as a child? People are 3D printing houses, boats, rocket engines. But ya, it’s never going to catch on, just like the internet is a fad… lol

[@ShakeyLimbs]

@@DaveRigDesign wow, personal insults because of my opinion. I just think it still sucks, and I stated why. So, you go off and insinuate that I'm stupid, or brain damaged and then lie about my comments saying I think its a fad.....just wow.

[@ShakeyLimbs]

@@DaveRigDesign guess I will just report your channel.

[@markumoeder]

Really usefull way for 3d printed plastic car part's ,motorcycle part's or any other plastic parts that need to thicken up,modify or fill up rough plastic surfaces.

[@Muteris]

From designing the test model to completion, I would guesstimate a long afternoon, maybe four to five hours? That’s significantly faster than what I have tried in the past. Nice work.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Once you have your model printed, and if you aren’t trying to film the process, you could go from plain print to final paint in probably 3 hrs or so. Not much sanding is needed between layers so it goes fast

[@AmanoJack]

I did this to a rough little rock I found and it is super smooth and glossy now! 😁

[@saucyfpv8928]

Hell yeah dude! love the UV curing chamber. looks like you made the whole thing.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks, Ya made it a while back. Top is just foam core with a tin foil lining. Base is simple wood box and motor to turn the platform. Then UV LED light strips

[@TanyaHakala]

Thanks for sharing this technique! I’d love to see how you would modify it for a detailed 28mm figure.

[@DonCarlione973]

Holy cow! That's a neat little trick, It came out damn near perfect 👌🏻

[@metalmaniac7821]

I just watched this and have to say great idea for filling the layer lines etc, I like that you explained everything you did well in the video as sometimes some people don’t and I find myself with questions but not this time lol I do have a suggestion for you to help with painting your prints especially dome objects like the in the video and that’s a simple lazy Susan. It really does make spaying domes, tanks and spheres so much easier when you can just spin the item around smoothly, I find holding some round objects annoying when trying to lay paint smooth

[@breabnyan]

that's amazing! And for details you just 3d print filler with sticking out handle that allows to remove it after applying resin or filling it up with clay, foam whatever.

[@jpratt8676]

Would have been great to see a control print that got the same painting for comparison, but the result is breath taking!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thought about it but I really hate sanding PLA :)

[@jpratt8676]

@@DaveRigDesign ah, the beauty of my suggestion is to not sand the control ;) Thanks for the video btw, great content and I'm keen to use your techniques some time (though I mostly make functional stuff which isn't too pretty)

[@DaveRigDesign]

I did this follow up video comparing using resin with and without powder added if that helps. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i3e1k4edaJyHmpo

[@jpratt8676]

@@DaveRigDesign so much! Thank you!!!

[@jack0cat]

Awesome paint job there man. I keep telling my people on a 3D printing page on Facebook about this technique everyone seems to think you can’t use 3D printing resin. It’s the same stuff. I have been a little leery of the clear coat attacking the base color I’ve had a few that wrinkled up my killer paintwork like grammas but. 🤣 Great video anyway.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks. Just have to make sure the clear coat is compatible with the paint your using.

[@carlosdelolmo3d]

Thanks for sharing , looks incredible results.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks, glad you liked the video. 🙏

[@andyb7754]

Very interesting video, I like it! One thing I'd do differnt is I'd wear 2 gloves and NOT touch the print because no matter how clean your hands are they still have body oils on them. Very good layer line removal tip for my first view of your channel, subscribed!

[@shawnhicks619]

One thing I’ve been doing lately o. Helmets is slicing the top of the dome off where the layer lines start to get bad and key the parts to fit together then re-orienting the top portion so that it so doesn’t have huge steps to fill in. Yeah it takes a bit longer to print and you have a seam to deal with but post processing is much faster, by a lot. And that seam is t a big deal considering I use weld-on to melt the pla together and for good measure heat weld the seam on the inside for added strength. For extra insurance you can make your own plastic staples but I rarely need to do that with both weld-on and plastic welding.

[@Asgeir_Arnevik]

That print sure got a lot of love, great job!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks, the more love it gets the shinier it is :)

[@aquadarkskull3248]

I was thinking of making a helmet at one point but wasn’t sure how to hide those 3D print lines. Glad I found this.

[@DaveRigDesign]

I’m working on a helmet for my next video so tune in if you want to see how it turns out :)

[@2150dalek]

Exactly what I need to do on my 3D print. Thanks for the presentation.

[@Hazdazos]

Interesting technique. I've used bondo in the past and it turned out great, but I think using resin would be faster and require less sanding. Have to remember this one. Even though I don't have a resin printer, I might have to pick up some resin to try this out. Thanks.

[@loganjorgensen]

Pretty good results, viscosity of it seems like an artform unto itself.🙂 Been interested in what can smooth 3D prints, cool how print models can trade globally, but the time it takes to print multiple copies..... I think efforts like this will help towards better silicone mold resin casting methods that can produce more units faster and cheaper.

[@robertmartin2936]

I'm late to this party, but if you have a thin recess detail (particularly if you don't need fill in it at all) an easy way to mask it out is using a brushable silicone paint mask with a small tip brush. Fill in the recess, then do whatever you need over the surface, and peel it out before paint and clear coat.

[@bopedersen89]

Got a sub for not just this but your library of content! Cheers!!

[@ChristopherFehrenbacher]

It makes sense that a technique that I have used countless times in my career in aviation for structural repair finishing would have made its way into the 3d printing space. The materials are very similar in use but obviously distinctly different in nature of strength and resilience. We would use Hysol 9396 and microscopic glass beads to achieve a perfectly smooth finish on some repairs or to fill small non-structural dents and holes. Granted, that stuff is WAY more hazardous to your health. Microscopic glass beads are NOT your friend and fly through the air like talcum powder. I was always so conscious of it even when wearing a shop aron, gloves, and respirator.

[@geekyarn]

After printing transparent resin items I sand back slightly and apply a coat of resin and use an air compressor to blow off any excess resin to ensure all the detail remains. I cure with out cleaning or wiping of any kind and get a glass like finish. It takes longer to cure but the finish is worth it!

[@pepperonidrawing-]

Saved me 3+ hours of sanding. Can’t say how grateful I am!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Glad I could help :)