4 Years Later - Whole House Water Filters Update

[@DaveWirth]

Bulk Filters: amzn.to/3wk9Wxq and amzn.to/3UBO0Ho Install Video from 4 years ago ....... kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpCpkKuLgK2qeLM iSpring Filter Video .......................... kzbin.info/www/bejne/fIDPfYeIbrOFr5I Culligan Filter Video ........................ kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIaclJKGqbqHo7M List of all the materials & tools i bought: ($400 total) Water Filters: CULLIGAN WH-HD200-C Filter .......... amzn.to/2utRPSo (alt) DuPont WFPF13003B Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEm7KD Culligan RFC-BBSA Premium Filter .......... amzn.to/2urSzY7 iSpring WSP-50 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEiEfh iSpring WSP-100 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2JDEqS7 PEX Pipe Material & Tools: Crimping Wrench .......... amzn.to/2X7l4Xc 3/4" PEX Pipe .......... amzn.to/2Xa7NNL PEX Cinch Rings .......... amzn.to/2GdeLLb 90 deg Elbow .......... amzn.to/2UzkIM8 Butterfly Valve .......... amzn.to/2P42oF0 3/4" Tee .......... amzn.to/2UeRq0v PEX to Threaded .......... amzn.to/2VE7Bpy PEX to Threaded 2 .......... amzn.to/2P7eNYI PEX/PVC Pipe Cutter .......... amzn.to/2X0uLGW Pressure Gauge .......... amzn.to/2IspLH7 Depth Gauge .......... amzn.to/2GdfoV3 PTFE Tape .......... amzn.to/2IfBDgk 1/2"Male to 1/4" Female .......... amzn.to/2Igi0EX SharkBite 90 Elbow .......... amzn.to/2X40gQs 3/4" to 3/4" Male ..........amzn.to/2KzcajS

[@twbrkfd1733]

i have a pleated filter to remove larger chunks and then a charcoal filter to remove chlorine. Charcoal filter lasts a lot longer with the pleated pre-filter. Hang the filter wrench on the wall next to the filter.

[@jaandel1]

@DaveWirth what about chlorine in your water or scale... we know this will may damage your pex pipe over the years. about copper my home 100 yrs several repair here and there. pinholes no water system filter yet. i am planning to replumbing whole house... bc of a bathroom renovation so i am looking to use pex . copper $$$

[@GeeScottJay]

Thank you for making a concise, clear, structured video, without any filler or unnecessary time wasting. That was exactly the right length, without missing or extra info. Great work.

[@Jinkins100]

WOW!!! Thank you so much for the 4-year update video. I don't think I have ever seen anyone do an update video on projects that I am researching. Much appreciated. I was not planning on installing a pressure gauge but I will be installing at least one now. I figured it would be a good way to see if I have any leaks that I cannot see downstream.

[@i_know_youre_right_but]

I did “NAZI” that coming!!!!!!!!!

[@chuckburton2974]

I am a retired water system installer/operator with 30 years experience working on small systems for the National Park Service. Most people are not as fastidious as you are about monitoring their water systems. I’d like to compliment you on the system that you designed and installed yourself, and for sharing your experience with others through your video. I have a couple of comments for your consideration: You installed clear sumps on your system which allows a quick visual assessment of the filter media. Much nicer than the solid color units that give the system operator no clue about what’s going on inside. Even so, a filter that looks dirty on the outside may still be functioning well and not be clogged to the point where it needs to be cleaned or replaced. The two gauges (one upstream of the filter set, and one downstream) are the most reliable way to assess the efficiency and throughput of your system. You have four sets of filter media that the water is passing through. Even with a full set of brand new filter media, when water is flowing through the system, you should be seeing 2 to 3 psi higher pressure on the upstream gauge, than the pressure shown on the downstream gauge. If you are seeing not that differential pressure between the upstream and downstream gauges, there is a problem. Given the amount of iron in your water, it is highly likely that your upstream gauge has become fouled with sediment. Other causes could be damaged/improperly seated filter cartridges, or a leak in that bypass value you have there between the incoming and outgoing water lines. These pressure gauges, when operating properly, give a very good indication of the true condition of the filter media. When the pressure differential hits 5 or 6 psi, it's time to check and clean the filters or replace them if they are not the cleanable type. The iron filter system you have constructed is excellent for filtering out "ferric" (oxidized) iron. The other type of iron in water that may have to be addressed is "ferrous" (clear water) iron. This is iron that exists in a liquid state. It can pass right through your filter media and cause you problems at the point-of-use. When ferrous iron is present, it will oxidize when exposed to air. A great place to check for this problem without expensive water testing, is to inspect your toilet tank. If you have a conventional toilet tank, the incoming water is exposed to air when it is sprayed into the tank during refill. If you see a thin film of red or blackish oxide on the inside walls of the toilet tank, that is the result of ferrous iron being converted to ferric iron, due to exposure to the air. If you have ferric iron in your water and are pumping directly from a water well into your system, it is highly likely that ferrous iron is also present in your water. If you pump to a storage tank first, allow the water to remain in detention for 30 minutes or so, then pump from the storage tank to your house plumbing, the oxidation will usually occur in the storage tank, rather than your toilet tank. There are also other filtration systems designed to remove ferrous iron from your water.

[@DaveWirth]

I agree that sometimes when a filter looked dirty, and i changed it, the inner core was still clean and had more life left in it. I agree, the pressure gauges are useless and i would not install them, knowing what i know now. I agree, our toilet tanks are terrible and rusty. And I recently installed an air iron filter kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnLPpYmml7yEpJI

[@pnorton75]

Definitely use pressure gauges. You just need to know when to read them. That is the absolute best way to know when you need to change your filters. You should also notice a difference in the pressure when you're showering or using water in your house.

[@bondarenkodf]

Wonderful job! To observe a pressure difference, you need to install an output valve after the second gauge, which can release water into a bucket or the sewage system. Simply open it and monitor the pressure difference as water flows. By relying on pressure difference rather than a fixed interval for changing filters, you may have the opportunity to save some money.

[@Fatfett]

This was my exact thought when hearing he was changing the filters monthly. Could probably get by changing them much less often. Generally mechanical filters (filters with a fine filtration media as opposed to activated carbon) continue doing their job for a very long time, they just get clogged which reduces water flow. One other tip is to pipe the inlet and outlet together and put in ball valves. Put a gauge in that header pipe instead of 2 separate gauges in the inlet and outlet. This way you can measure inlet pressure, outlet pressure, or difference in pressure just by manipulating the valves, all with a single gauge. Measuring a pressure differential with 2 different gauge could introduce a ton of error if each gauge is not well calibrated.

[@BenjaminHansen]

​@@Fatfett I cannot picture this in my head. Maybe I'll come across a diagram during research.

[@Halabalooza]

I live in Russia and use 3 step filter: 5micron, 0.8 micron and 0.1 micron. All they cost about 60$. Change them once a year or after 10 months

[@09boydie]

I used your original video to install the same exact system in my house. I've been using it for 3 years now and no problems at all. You designed a great system - thank you!

[@Freely_Accepted]

I work in Water Filtration. Installing whole home filters, reverse osmosis. Treating everything from city water to well water. Industrial and residential. Sir, you did an excellent job. Very clean fits. Pressure gauges will let you know if a filter is clogged, but since you use housings that you can see. And you check on your stuff (you would not believe how many people do not do that). You did a great job explaining the use purpose, and the frequency of servicing. Good video! Cheers!

[@pete.donohue]

Amen to that Mr.Bear!

[@JanColdwater]

Reverse osmosis cleans out fluoride and chlorine too?

[@Freely_Accepted]

@@JanColdwater Yes. It also greatly lowers bacteria contaminates. If you flush the membrane for 5 minutes every two weeks, (some come with flush valves for the membranes), it helps maintain the membranes life, keeping it free of clogging up with contamination. I’ve changed some membranes that people did not flush, and they were covered in slime, gunk, and had a “beer” odor. I’ve changed others where they DID backwash them, but the membrane needed to be replaced, but it was not clogged (still clogged) as bad as the ones whom did not flush them.

[@JanColdwater]

@@Freely_Accepted Thank you so much. Could you please recommend one that you like best?

[@Freely_Accepted]

@@JanColdwater 5 stage Proline Plus. Are you in the US?

[@jamesortolano3983]

As someone who has put in quite a few filter systems ,I'd say this is a great job ! You should show people the bi-pass you put in ,or discuss how you work it nd why . I've put in magnetic ,nd ultra violet piping as well. What ever you want to pay for . I still use a 3 stage omni system for my home . Filters go by different names now . Much appreciation For your time ,editing, nd posts

[@craigmiller8902]

Thanks!

[@kasha5839]

I can appreciate everything you've done here and especially the update. Perfect for a home lived in year round. ❤

[@tealkerberus748]

The only issue with the pressure gauges is that you do need to be looking at them while something is using water. Washing machine, dishwasher, or running a bath all take a fair amount of water flow. It's kind of obvious that when no water is being used, the pressure on the downstream side of the filters will creep up to equalise with the pressure on the upstream side.

[@gr8dvd]

👍 Or as another posted just a flush valve into a bucket to observe pressure differential, if any.

[@tshaw1886]

So impressive! I love the thought that you put into every detail of this system!! Storage, whiteboard, notes, everything!! You are amazing 🤩

[@gaddur1]

Hi Nice to meet you via this way where can l. Buy this systeem

[@PRR1954]

This is similar to what I put in 9 years ago for iron-rich well water. One personal choice: I took a tap after the spindown and before the pleated filters for the outside faucets--- a little dirt won't hurt outside waters but I was getting teeny gravel which jammed the faucets. This also simplifies the winter shut-down: I can close that side-tap and drain the outside faucets with less running around. More than justifies the extra 40' of PEX to have the outside faucets on dedicated lines.

[@bd9494]

thanks for putting this together. It was super helpful. One addition you could consider is adding a reverse loop to your spindown filters. That would let you backflush into the clear hose and probably reduce the interval you need to take the screens out and clean completely.

[@DaveWirth]

Didn't know you could do that. That's a good idea.

[@DilettanteDon]

This is an excellent idea. I just removed 2 ispring filters from my system because the flushing mechanism really wasn't good enough.

[@freddysflyz]

Hi - Would somebody please explain the "reverse loop" in this scenario. I'm going to install new sediment filtration and this sounds like a popular idea! Thanks in advance!

[@urbanturbine]

@@freddysflyz you add piping around the filter to reverse the flow through the filter.

[@scottb5975]

@@freddysflyz Did you ever figure out what this was?

[@keithsams4301]

i have the culligan filters too..and they have been great..i love them..but a couple days ago one of the tanks got a fracture in it and started seeping water...culligan does not offer parts for these..and of course the by-pass on the filter is stuck..and i didnt plumb in a by-pass...so i ordered a new filter and the plan is to just use the tank from the new filter when it gets here and put it on the old head...but if i have to change out anything i will replumb and build a by-pass, so i can work on these things and still have water...also, it would be a good idea to have unions on both sides of the filters to take them compleatly out of the system if need be...to replace the filter housings them selves...just thoughts im learning now that i have done it..and re-thinking the plan

[@geoh7349]

I put an iron and magnesium big blue filter in and it helps a good bit

[@twbrkfd1733]

A charcoal filter is needed to remove City water chlorine which deteriorates the phosphate scale inhibitor used at the input to a tankless water heater. No spin down needed with City water; except when hydrants are flushed, so not worth the added work of maintenance.

[@ahrens07]

Have you had any luck removing chlorine from city water? I’m not having any luck with a whole house chlorine filter similar to this video. Thank you 🙏

[@lex8561]

Thank you for this update. I am in the process of installing a new whole house water filtration system and I'm following your install video to a T. I am only installing the culligan filters, no ispring. Im skipping the pressure gauges now after watching this video.

[@WillieStubbs]

I like the pressure gages that have a garden hose connector on them and when I need to check the pressure I just put them on the end of the spigot. Then I can leave them on the shelf until I need them and I can use the spigot to drain the system or run water from a hose. For my new home I'm planning on having a parallel system with a Sediment filter and a Charcoal Filter on each leg so the incoming water will split into two legs with 2 filters each so the water pressure won't diminish much. I have 1" pex going to my filters at the well so the entire system will only have filtered water going to it.

[@brentjohnson6654]

Very nice update. I am on a pump in Texas and I have terrible sediment issues. The filters I have tried in the past have reduced our pressure from 60psi to almost a dribble in the shower (not sure on psi at the house). I am interested in the spin down filters for removing some of that before I filter it - I like how you put this in. I am considering going with pet also as you did. All of my previous pipe out in the pump house have been PVC. That froze a couple of years ago when we had rolling blackouts here in Texas. It was even -6F! I grew up in Northern Minnesota so I have seen cold weather in the past, but we never had the power go out in a blizzard like that. Haha. Thanks for your videos. I have added your list to a Amazon list for me as I consider what to do. I am getting the water tested again to see a before and after. Along with this whole house filter I plan on putting a under the cabinet filter in the kitchen. Thanks again for your videos. They have been instructive and give me ideas on what to do.

[@BenjaminHansen]

I'm in central MN, not happy with the rust in my well.

[@brentjohnson6654]

@@BenjaminHansen my grandparents used to farm in the Cambridge/Mora area. I lived on the Iron Range until college.

[@martyvanord984]

It is really difficult to find accurate and reliable information. Water filtration is 100% unregulated and no laws protect us from scam artists. I have a few tips. MOST IMPORTANT is to use only pleaded filters to get maximum filtering capacity for your filters. This can be the difference between months of use and weeks. I find US WATER is reasonable and sells very good filters. SECOND, a big blue 4.5-diameter filter housing is the way to go. A 20-inch long BB will have half of the pressure drop of a 10-inch housing and double the service duration. I have got a year and a half of service from a previous system that plugged in days. The drawback is the 20-inch BB housing full of water is very heavy to handle when changing filters! Hope this helps.

[@patnewman3896]

I think you could use an automatic flushing spin down filter. They could be flushed every day. That is a lot of stuff being caught. Appears to be overflowing through the filters. I have been working on my water system for 3 years but I have gotten it to where my 3rd filter stays clear and I’m on a well.

[@veoteveo1]

Add a flowmeter and change filters per totalizer every to months or more depending on the usage

[@veoteveo1]

I would also remove the uv and place it recirculating the water in the tank continuously so that you get about one circulation of the volume of the tank per day

[@jaythefit8817]

I think it's a good idea to have gauges upstream and downstream. It will most definitely indicate your delta P if the water is flowing. Turn on water outlet then take a look at the difference in pressure. It will definitely give an indication for the Delta P across the filter unit. One thing must have, nonetheless, is high quality gauges that are between 0 - 100 psi. Glycerin filled gauges are the the most stable of gauges.

[@freddysflyz]

Thanks for the great video... I'm lacking space to go off the rails but like the idea of the spin down (50 micron) and the 5 micron sediment filter. That should take care of us here. Thanks for sharing your system!

[@patnewman3896]

I think you could use an automatic flushing spin down filter. They could be flushed every day. That is a lot of stuff being caught. Appears to be overflowing through the filters.

[@jamessullivan6985]

First time viewer……..well done, keep up the good work….

[@manxman8008]

Hmm if only the water company would do this. Good job!

[@tealkerberus748]

Except a surprising amount of water gets used for things like watering lawns and gardens or flushing toilets where the water really doesn't need to be filtered to premium drinking quality. Separating that out from actual drinking water would mean two parallel sets of pipes to every house in their service region, with all the cost hikes implied. Also, one of the things people are most interested in removing from their town water supply is chlorine, and the supplier has to add that to stop pathogens growing inside their pipes. All up, it's more efficient if the water provider quality standard is set at "not dangerous to drink this" and households control their own equipment to raise the standard to "actually attractive to drink."

[@stargazer7644]

I did the same thing, but I just used one culligan filter and I use the 5 micron activated carbon filter. It takes care of nearly all the iron in the water. I also put in two pressure gauges, and I agree they're useless. Even when the water is flowing and the filter is completely end of life they don't show a pressure difference.

[@lobdsk]

I followed your advice and my water is wayyyyy better

[@peternguyen4907]

Thanks for sharing. I have mine outside the house. I hardly monitor the system. It about time to modify.

[@rafterwhomestead]

Nice, I'm building a filter system for our home. We have well water and every so often our shower pressure drops off a bit. I'm suspecting some debris/particulate matter is getting caught up in the needle valve of the shower to adjust the flow, once I slightly adjust those valves closed and back open, the pressure is back to normal. I'm going with the two pre-filters that you've placed with a 100 and a 50 micron. Rather than two smaller culligan filters, I've opted for a single large 5 micron 3M AP904 filter as we have scale issues that I'm hoping this will also address. Its a pricey filter to replace so I'm hoping the two pre-filters will help extend the life of it. Our water quality is not too bad, the primary issue is the hard water/scale. With the well and our sandy soil conditions, I suspect some fine sand and particulate matter does make its way through our water system. Will know for sure after these filters!

[@KarasCyborg]

I ran 2 sets of home filters in parallel so that there wouldn't be a pressure drop and to extend when I would have to change them. The first stage was charcoal, second stage was 5 micron. Seems to work well, although the plumber I hired was a Maroon in the way he tied them together. Plus the Whirpool stickers fell off with all the changes and it's impossible to know which way is bypass / off / filter. I wish I could go back and time and re-do the whole setup correctly myself. So I too feel your pain.

[@Jspifferman]

You'd be doing it wrong if you put charcoal first and your filters should be tied together one into the next then out to your house.

[@hj8607]

Check your city line pressure first and if over 80PSI a pressure regulator will help your plumbing SO AT LEAST one pressure gauge should be in line after regulator . And a pressure gauge after one or each filter WIIL help you to not replace filters until really needed. (replace a carbon filter per manufacturer's recommendation regardless of no or little pressure drop) (kinda like having no gas gauge in your car)

[@jaycahow4667]

Most people do not realize the water company can pump at what ever pressure is required for their system. Depending on how far water has to be pumped and where you are located there can be drastic changes in pressure from one location to another and it can change at any time without notice. The water pressure coming into my house is over 90 psi and I lower it to 70 psi which is still on the high end. The higher the pressure the more likely something is going to burst over time in your plumbing system. That is why every house owner should know their incoming water pressure and better yet have a water pressure control valve in their line to limit the maximum pressure. For those with inline water filters be aware that these filter containers are all rated to a certain pressure and if you exceed it you run the risks of them failing over time. This is especially important on the clear filter containers as they tend to have a lower maximum pressure that the opaque ones.

[@gutrali]

One pressure gauge may still be a good idea.... Especially if you don't have one anywhere else on your water system. I installed a drinking water RO system in a new house, and I do monitor the output pressure because it can tell me the membrane health. I noticed pretty quickly that my pressures would spike above 120 PSI after a shower..... Which immediately told me my pressure expansion tank was broken. Replaced it easily and inexpensively, my pressure then never raised above city pressure (70psi), and i likely saved myself exploding pipes or damaged valves in the future. If i hadnt out in that pressure gauge i never would have seen the problem until something finally failed and caused a flood. I also think my mostly PEX piping saved the disaster from happening because it can def expand to some degree.. unlike copper.

[@craigmiller8902]

Outstanding video. I did a fairly similar system in Florida. It works.

[@RubenKelevra]

Why not put digital pressure gauges there which can send the data to Home Assistant? So if they differ by x amount for a couple of seconds, you can push a notification to your phone reminding you to clean the filters? :) You could also add motorized valves to flush the two pre-filters regularly, based on the water consumption (just add a water meter to the output to automate it).

[@pearseobyrne]

Thank you so much, you've made everything perfectly clear to me. Cheers, Pearse

[@TDHofstetter]

I buy the skinny filter cartridges for less than a dollar each, and they last a long time. And... you can still get 25-micron. And... their surface area isn't much smaller than those big bulky filter cartridges.

[@bratecyo]

thanks Dave, you've confirmed my thoughts on filtering.

[@mohammadaarifkhan737]

Can't thank you enough for the video ❣

[@ryancolebourn3060]

Great system and update, thank you for sharing!

[@patklemmensen1694]

if your dissolved iron is high, add a 10"x54" tank into your plumbing, ahead of all your filters... pump compressed air into this tank with your incoming water stream, and allow the oxidized - particulate, in other words - to settle in the bottom... you might have to drain & flush this 'settling tank' once or twice a year, but that might be better than changing filters every month...

[@gpleeser5832]

Thank you on a different level for the update man!!!

[@lovewenwin]

Thank you for the updates

[@bobshanery5152]

After the studies of PEX coming out with possibly contaminating the water supply.. I remove that first. Granted it does say you can use if filtered and you flush the system frequently.

[@motodude23]

You could get a backwashing carbon filter that would be maintenance free essentially and a 5 micron sediment after and only change that 1 time a year.

[@mikejoyce3782]

3:09 The Clear filters have a lower PSI rating than the Blue filters. Also, the Clear should be replaced every five years.

[@DIYKAI]

Excellent we did a similar 5 stage down to .5 micron

[@woodzyfox4735]

After the filters water softner. this keep the chunks out of the softner that you may not be able to remove..

[@MAGAMAN]

I might have missed it, but I didn't see any water test results that show this system even does anything. Every full house water filter system I have ever seen professionally installed is much, much bigger.

[@siecieh]

great setup

[@Tratios]

I am amazed your water coming in needs that much filtering and you burn filters so fast; I will have to go back to look to see what the problem is.

[@BenjaminHansen]

A lot of wells in the Midwest have iron in them. Have you heard of the Iron Range in Minnesota? I use Morton Rust remover Softener salt in my softener and I still have mild iron stains.

[@tealkerberus748]

@@BenjaminHansen It stumps me that so many people in the US drink water out of the ground that needs so much filtration to make it clean, when good fresh rainwater literally falls out of the sky. I have a nice clean metal roof and a decent size storage tank, and my drinking water looks and tastes great.

[@bigdfig6083]

If we could ALL be so lucky... Lotsa area in the US not fortunate enough to get consistent precipitation w semi-arid and arid regions being just two examples. Where I live the average annual rainfall is less than seven inches. At some level I'm sure it makes sense to set up a catchment system, but many aren't anywhere near that amount.

[@tealkerberus748]

@@bigdfig6083 if there isn't enough rainfall for agriculture, people shouldn't be living there. If you're managing to farm on 178mm of rainfall, then you're creative enough that running a house on that shouldn't be hard either.

[@booifojoe]

@@tealkerberus748 Any other criteria you wish to impose for where people should and shouldn't live? I eagerly await you decision.

[@zacharywhite8230]

If you had a properly working water softener and it was set up right it should pull iron out of the water. If not you need an iron machine ahead of it to remove the rest. Many different types of equipment for the many types of iron. Your water in the house should be clear and clean after the system.

[@FillUps007]

Great job. I’m duplicating your 4 filter setup, except I’m going with two Culligan WH-S200-C filter systems

[@EasyLiving8]

Thank You Sir to taking the time to do this video and share your experience with us.

[@cageordie]

After watching your first video I decided to use a 20" filter. I don't have space for too many. The water softener also came with a 10" filter, so I fitted that but I think it restricts the flow. During the fast rinse on the water softener I see 15psi drop across the two filters. I have a 200 micron spin down, then 20 micron 20" then the 10" carbon filter that came with the water softener. I used 1" PEX-B and the crimps are much harder to make. I checked the gauges while my wife or daughter was in the shower to see what pressure drop I am getting too. That was less, more like 5psi, because the showers have flow restrictors.

[@ShrimpCracka]

have you tried not putting in a filter for the last carbon filter to see if you are still getting a psi drop? I'm debating atm whether to use 20"x4.5" or 10"x4.5" filters as I don't want a significant drop in pressure.

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

Thanks, COOP ...

[@typewriteryt]

Awesome info. Thank you for the follow up.

[@SomeThingsToHelpYou]

Hi Dave. Thanks for taking the time to give us the update on your Water Filter System. I have a few specific questions for you on the Culligan Water Filter Housing Valve on top. If I don't have water shut-off valves before or after the Housing, can I simply turn the Blue Valve to the Off Position or Bypass Position and change my filter? Will water keep running through my water lines if the Blue Valve is in the Bypass Position. Also, will water come back out of the outflow sided of the Housing Head if I turn the Blue Valve into the Off Position and then change my filter? Looking forward to your response. Thanks again.

[@DaveWirth]

I think you can turn the blue valve on top, but when i tried it, mine didn't rotate. I didn't want to break it, so i didn't force it too much. There was someone in the comments below that said the same thing, theirs seemed stuck and didn't want to break the plastic. But yes, the top should act as a bypass valve and you can change the filter....at least that's what i understood.

[@reidcrosby6241]

Don't depend on the housing filter always being functional. They can and do sometimes lock up.

[@mtdchallengeoffamilytime5750]

Thank you Sir awesome video

[@petersherrouse33]

It would be a good idea to add a dump valve that allows you to run water through the system so you can see the pressure drop.

[@DaveWirth]

Ya that would have been a good idea

[@dwightrivera3281]

Awesome video!!

[@Suchnsuchhomesteadja]

Good video my bro ... hailing from jamaica 🇯🇲

[@micmike]

Hi thanks, for this topic. Very interesting. Question, what does your wife say about the washing machine and the change the filter system made to the laundry?

[@DaveWirth]

We used to get rust stains on white clothes. Haven't had that issue since Also no rust stains on the bath tub and sinks

[@alejandrahugues493]

THIS HELPS SOOOOO MUCH, THAKS!!!!

[@jarnevanbec2886]

Just a curious question: why no rain water? What is the yearly precipitation/m2 and roof area? (filtration still needed off course, but no iron problems etc)

[@Nidkidful]

The rain water would have issues with sediment, would need a large cistern, and a pump, plus something to manage bacteria growth. It can also be illegal in different states and cities.

[@tealkerberus748]

You'll find in rural parts of Australia, most households don't have filtration on our rainwater unless a family member has a very fragile immune system. Yes there's probably things growing in our tanks, but even as a disabled person who catches colds and stuff pretty easily, I've never got sick from my rainwater tank. I'm drinking that water every day and my immune system knows what to expect and how to deal with it. As a general principle, if your location has enough precipitation to support agriculture, it has enough precipitation to support households using rainwater tanks. If you need more water than you're getting, you either use less water, or build another shed. There is no such thing as too many sheds on a farm!

[@dalerardon1687]

Great Video! Thank you!

[@jimbodee4043]

Interesting update.

[@MiguelFerrer-jc2wx]

THANKS, GREAT INSTRUCTION,

[@dc5duben96]

great update👍🏽

[@ialso]

Yes very interesting, but did this system address the iron in the water? I would really like to know or was iron not an issue

[@RoyRivas.]

Hi there, thanks you for the educational video, question is this system will take care the white residue from calcium and magnesium, my wife only cares about that , we are a happy bottle drinkers water …. Thanks in advance

[@DaveWirth]

I think so. The house always had a softener, but since installing these filters, the calcium on the showers was a lot less. Still not completely gone, but maybe like 85% gone? Again, you can probably get away with just 1 of the small and 1 of the large filters.

[@anjabankien2527]

Great video

[@skozzy1968]

Cant imagine having water come out of a tap that is not clean, we are lucky here it seems.

[@Nitrobucket]

Where do you live? I don't think any water in America is considered clean anymore

[@judyb4288]

Thanks for the update, and what brand are the larger filters, the five & the one?

[@DaveWirth]

I've bought these before: amzn.to/3wk9Wxq And these: amzn.to/3UBO0Ho

[@shate74662000]

Question: does the whole house water filter make water soft? If it does, then we don't need to install water softener, am I correct?

[@DaveWirth]

No, the filters don't soften the water, just filter out particles. I still have a water softener after these filters.

[@AgentOffice]

I'm trying 3M Aqua-Pure

[@DAMG00D]

Is it possible that the rust is either from a galvanized pipe? Or from the inside of your pressure tank (i saw you're on a well)? For some dumb reason, the plumber who did the install for this house 30 years ago used a short chunk of galvanized pipe. Well after years of perpetual use, it started to dissolve (rust) and would wreak havoc downstream on everything. The only reason I even discovered that was because I installed a whole house water filter. I replaced/added everything that was exposed from the wall to the well tank(s) & included "main shut off". Which is apparently a no no for a well.

[@alejandrourizar3814]

Thanks, this is great information. I do have a question, which I was hoping you may answer. Is it better to have a larger spin down 50 micron like the "iSpring WSP50ARJ Spin-Down" or its better to combine 2 spin down filters , one 100 micron and the other 50 micron. In my current setup, my 50 micron is clogging in 5 days, so not sure if adding a 100 micron or just getting a larger 50 micron filter.

[@DaveWirth]

sounds like for your situation a 100 micron filter would help. they would "spread the load" and hopefully not clog as easily. for me, the 100 was not really needed, not even sure if the 50 was needed. The iron/rust in my water was smaller than that in size

[@MrCoffeeMrRadar]

great job and video, one question. you said that you would have gone with 1 of each for your house. how many people live in your home? I always wonder if more filters should be added depending on people living in the home.

[@DaveWirth]

3 people nothing to do with the people in the house. Just that after a month, the filter was clogged with rust and it started showing up in the tub, toilets. maybe if there were more people it would mean more water usage and more filter changing

[@MrCoffeeMrRadar]

@@DaveWirth thank you.

[@primewatch7432]

It would be good if you could separate the lawn sprinklers and toilet water from the facet and shower water. As to not wear out your filters for things that don't need it.

[@DaveWirth]

The lawn sprinklers and outside spigots are separated, but not the toilets. You can see "spigots" labeled at 0:21 of the video

[@ronnyfenrich]

Hey, I actually installed an iSpring 50 two years ago after seeing this video but I'm still not happy with the overall results. Still see rust deposits in the toilets and the water smells "funny" when you take a shower. I have the iSpring first and then a 1micron filter (similar to the culligan but smaller diameter) that shouldn't let anything through. I change and clean every two weeks but I'm still unhappy with the results. I'll look into some other filter solution this year to completely get rid of any rust.

[@DaveWirth]

I change that 5 micron filter every month. Still get a little bit of rust on the shower tile, but it's way better then it was before installing the filters. But ya, some iron/rust gets through mine also, but not a lot.

[@Sylvan_dB]

There can be three different types of rust in water. Iron bacteria (reddish slime in your toilet tank), dissolved iron, and iron/rust particles. These filters will only filter rust particles bigger than whatever micron size of the filter. Iron bacteria need to be killed (i.e. sanitizing the well and plumbing - not usually a problem with city water). The other kind of rust is dissolved in the water and being dissolved, it passes right thru the filter. Later when exposed to air this dissolved rust oxidizes and then settles out of the water. If there is less than 2 or maybe 3 ppm iron in the water then a water softener can remove it. Another alternative are special filters that can oxidize the iron (perhaps some KDF media, greensand or birm or ???) and then it can be caught by one of your 1 micron sediment filters. For small amounts of iron you can find them in a cartridge like for the housings you have. Larger amounts of iron are handled by a tank filled with that special media and which can be backwashed on a timer to dispose of the collected iron. And if you have a lot of iron then the water is filled into an atmospheric pressure tank where it can be treated for a longer time to oxidize and then pumped thru filters back into your home system.

[@martyvanord984]

it might be worth a look at Ray builds cool stuff--he has a video of his 19 year old rain water collection system---he also has kept a chart on the wall--he uses pressure drop across the filters to determine filter change times--he has documented much less pressure drop and much longer filter life after going to 20 inch long 4.5 dia filters. He feels the extra cost is well worth it to him. His video is unique to his system and IMO well worth the watch.

[@Giovani1718]

So this only works for catching rust? Does it do anything for Hard water ?

[@urbanturbine]

thank you for this follow up video! I am going to build the same. I noticed they have spin down filters with automatic wash down... expensive but pretty cool. Quick question: What type of material did you choose for the wood board and what kind of paint is it?

[@DaveWirth]

just a piece of plywood i had lying around and whatever paint i use for walls ( i didn't buy anything, just used what i had in the garage)

[@deepakshinde7997]

You are amazing

[@fabiancanada8876]

Thanks for your video and the good information. We have great water but some sediment issues (sandy/cloudy). We are currently using a small water filter (5 micron) and it works good. However, I have to change the filter at least once a month (the filter is not much, I think it is 5$ or so). Did you see that the Culligan Filter cost like 70 CAD?! wouldn't want to have to replace that filter every month!

[@pleskbruce]

I don't know if Culligan parts use standardized sizes and fittings or not, but any time one uses proprietary systems you're usually stuck using "their" replacement parts or risking low quality substitutes. Think "printer ink"..... :)

[@haiping0918]

thank you!

[@AgentOffice]

I saw your photos in reviews haha

[@CarolineAkwi]

Thanks

[@davidh3774]

1:36 he soft flexes his prison uniform hanging there where he’s been the 4 years between updates 😂

[@2112user]

Considering a property on well water, so may very well do this if I get it. The question I had was you said you dropped the RO system.... Why did you decide to drop that?

[@DaveWirth]

We have 2 reverse osmosis systems. The "under the counter" ones that are like $400 on amazon Under kitchen and bathroom sinks In hindsight - should have done a whole house one

[@ryanspence7239]

I cant get over all the use of pex...i get its widely accepted and used but I think one day were gonna learn some real issues with plastic pipes if we havent already

[@Spinal2111]

Changing the filters every month seems like a lot. What happens with the old filter - do you just throw it out?

[@ShrimpCracka]

thank you for the update video! I'm in the process of building a filtration system, so your videos have been very helpful. If you're running 2 showers at the same time and lets say a washing machine as well of a total of 7gpm, would you say that getting a 20"x4.5" filter housing would help with the pressure and gpm? what is the psi drop you get when running a shower? or bathtub faucet?

[@DaveWirth]

Not really sure. Maybe at most we would have a washing machine and shower going at the same time, didn't really see a drop in pressure. Although i recently installed a large iron filter (size of a softener) and that caused a drop in pressure, but did get rid of the rust

[@ShrimpCracka]

@@DaveWirth i dont remember if you said in your video, but if you have a pressure reducing valve, you can adjust and up the pressure to make up for the loss correct? or would that introduce some new problems? Thanks again for your response, really appreciate you taking the time to produce the videos

[@DaveWirth]

@@ShrimpCracka I don't have a pressure reducing valve. We have a well and want all the pressure we can get. I even took off the restrictors on our shower heads to get more pressure: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5zGq3qpitumbK8

[@ShrimpCracka]

@@DaveWirth thanks man !

[@josemorales9249]

After adding all those filter how did the texture of the water change . Like when are you’re taking a shower . And you rings the soap and still feel like the soap is in your skin .

[@DaveWirth]

Not sure about the texture. We also have a water softener that's after the filters. The softener was at the house when we bought it, i added the filters to remove the rust. So if you have hard water, i don't think these would fix that.

[@cheaptick]

Do you have a water softener? I am on city water but sometimes it is discolored. I put a particulate filter after my water softener figuring the that the beads and gravel in the softener would flush out particulates greater than 10 micron allowing the filter to focus on smaller crud.

[@DaveWirth]

Yes. I just changed the softener resin last year: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGOYaoSQYpmYd7M

[@bladepenstrings]

What would be a good replacement for the dupont filter since it's apparently no longer available?

[@DaveWirth]

The ones i use are good: CULLIGAN WH-HD200-C Filter .......... amzn.to/2utRPSo

[@BlueRice]

Instead trying to change it everyone every month. Try it 3 months. Curious if it would still work good

[@DaveWirth]

I have since installed an iron filter and now only have to change them every 3 or 4 months. Before if we went longer than a month, rust would start showing up in the toilets and shower. And our reverse osmosis filter would clog sooner.