David Brown 990 valve chest strip down #24

[@marklloyd4536]

Many thanks for these videos. I recently bought an 885, first main jobs are hydraulics and brakes. Have removed the pto housing and hydraulic pump, will be removing the valve chest tomorrow. So far i have discovered handfuls of sand/grit and a severed pto oil feed pipe. Your videos are a tremendous help, thank you.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Mark, only to pleased to help, I'm pleased you find the video's useful. Sounds normal for an old tractor, just make sure you wash everything thoughly as hydraulics and sand really don't like each other. You'll find , when you take your valve chest to bits, the tolerences inside are microns and what ever you do, do not use abraasive paper or paste to clean the spools and inserts, use only metal polish and newspaper. enjoy many thanks Barry

[@ChatlesHall]

Great video Barry, my TCU valve is missing the ball and spring didn’t know until I watched your video Thanks, enjoyed it very much.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Chatles, only to pleased to have been able to help you, Those little bits are very important and can be bought easy enough, as said previosly there are loads of manuals on my Gdrive feel free to down load any that are of use. many thanks Barry

[@tombruce6398]

Barry just wanted to drop you your note of appreciation for your and Shane’s vid on valve chest thanks to you fine lads I now fixed my lift on my D. B. 880 selectamatic thanks again tom

[@manfromthemist1958]

Thats brilliant Tom I'm so pleased you got it sorted. many thanks Barry

[@kentkent537]

Tack Barry för att man får titta in i det allra heligaste i Selectamatic.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Tack för kommentarerna Kent J det var lite skrämmande, men hey ho det är bara muttrar och bultar i slutet av dagen

[@RobertHolland-q5e]

Very helpful

[@manfromthemist1958]

Thank you Robert, I pleased it was of use to you. thanks for watching Barry

[@phillipcleaver7063]

Barry , thanks very much for doing these videos , both a mate & me have an old D.B. each , both have hydraulic problems , albeit opposite ones ! , his spool valve was stuck in hold , centre position , therefore linkage couldn't be lifted up , mine the spool valve doesn't travel far enough up , therefore linkage does lower but only very slowly . According to the only workshop manual I could get , the spool valve is marked on it,s bottom button with a number , if you can see it for all the work the lever operating it has done , this number is the amount of travel in thousandths of an inch that individual valve has to be set to from being pushed right up to the very top of it's travel in the block , ( full crashing linkage drop ) outwards to the point where you stop it,s travel by setting the 2 little plain locknuts on the threaded top of the spool centre , it is extremely sensitive , & should only be set with the whole block at room temperature , it is acceptable to set this to no more that 1 thou extra travel on the spool than the number stamped on the spool bottom , but absolutely no less ! It is done with an imperial graduated dial gauge mag mounted on a vice , with the block held firmly in the same vice , the dial gauge stylus in contact perfectly squarely with the bottom button on the spool valve , yes , it,s a fiddle , but there,s a video on here at youtube of the guy I saw doing them in the factory at Meltham , I stood next to him & watched him do one , it was in a temperature controlled room , as everything expands & contracts with temperature changes . Sorry to drone on but it looks a bit like there,s only me around this neck of our woods who has found out how to do it , although I,m sure you would know , I,m way down country from you , but there,s still a few D.B.s around here I have to take all the hydraulic back end off mine to fully service & reset it, so I,ll gratefully watch your videos for knowledge , it looks like somebody has put black oil in the back end of the D.B. you're working on , one of our college tutors once taught us how to clean oiled up fouled spark plugs by taking the alloy contact off the top , then immersing them in household brown malt vinegar , it works powerfully , it fetches all the carbon straight out in 3 days max , but will dissolve alloy straight away , I don't know what it would do to brass , so proceed with care . It would be useful to find out just which part , land or void between them , was measured on the D.B. selectamatic valve spool valves , to establish the valve,s operating setting , as I think the number would soon get worn off , one actuating lever working all functions from up to 3 different selectable sensing systems . Great , informative videos mate , please carry on !

[@manfromthemist1958]

Phillip, thank you very much for this comment, I have cut and paisted it to a word doc and saved it in my DB files for use when I start putting the hydro back together and I'm sure a lot of people out there will find it exteremely useful because as you say good info is getting hard to find and we're loosing the vital knowledge as people leave us. I have been reading up on the valve chest and it's close tollerence settings, I've seen a vid on youtube from the factory where the tech is assembling the valves, very interesting. Those skils are now few and far between. many thanks for watching and good helpfull comments Barry

[@phillipcleaver7063]

@@manfromthemist1958 It,s a pleasure mate , as you say , once this info is lost , the guys who have it are getting few & far between , strangely , some of those that have it won,t tell you , I think they believe they have earned the opportunity for an income boost for hanging on to this knowledge , this does not further the cause of us classic tractor blokes , in my book , if someone wants to know , tell 'em , as one day it will be me that wants to know . Respect to the original designers of these systems , as they did this one in the early 1960,s , drawing boards & experienced people , no computers , that,s worth thinking about . Best Regs mate .

[@ChatlesHall]

Barry, do you know the diameter of the holes in the 3 hole washer in the hold valve?

[@manfromthemist1958]

Sorry Chatles I don't, if you email Stuart at Barclay Williams he may know.

[@samuelbygrave]

Hello, I’ve got one with a stuck lowering valve, any ideas how to get it out ? It’s well in there

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hio Sam go to this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/ammaYXeMotx8qJY and it shows how to grind up a pair of pointy nose pliers so you can grab the little nipple on the end then us a screw driver or pinch bar to lever it out, if that doen't get it I would send it to Stuart at Barcley Williams as you may damage the casting beyond repair if you go at it to hard. lets know how you get on. many thanks Barry

[@MarshallSmart]

High Barry have you got a photo of the little silver disc that was on top?

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Marshal, yes i have, if you go to my homepage on YT, click the commuity tab and scroll down till you see a plessy pump and DB intermediate axle plate, click on the image and scroll through the images, there is a picture of the ball retainer for the dump valve(one with three holes in it) and a picture of the single holed plate (gauze retainer)for the bypass valve. hopefully this helps, Many thanks Barry

[@MarshallSmart]

Had a look, is that the one for the hold valve? As it's slightly different from the manual. It shows 3 small holes round outside.

[@manfromthemist1958]

@@MarshallSmart The small one with single hole goes on top of the gauze filter in the bypass valve and the three holed one goes on top of the 1/8" dia ball under the spring for the hold valve, at least thats mine in the 990 yours may have an upgrade with it being a later tractor.

[@MarshallSmart]

@@manfromthemist1958 Well the 7mm ball i have in there will be to big then lol. 3.18mm May have to make a new plate to suit the smaller ball. I now have working hydraulics but not sure what power I have on the tipping pipe yet. I like lathe work so it's no problem to make an other one.What was stopping the arms moving was the pins at the top of the leveling box and the other side were rusted solid. Have remanufactured them today. Be on a up and coming video. M 😀

[@MarshallSmart]

@@manfromthemist1958 Have 1/8" ball bearings ordered just incase. 1974 my tractor if I remember right M

[@golhabaki]

I Barry Nice vídeo again as usual very interesting my dB 990 is working very well now thanks to your help with the tips you Gave me that being said my hidraulics can lift any cargo but not with the right lever on the right side i have to lift them with the left lever that as 4 positions but the biggest problem is that the hidraulics dont lower for that i have to turn the tractor off i think that the spool valve is broken i have to see that

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Andre, thanks for the kind words it's very good of you, have a look at D3SShooter he has a very good video explaining the workings of the DB 990 hydraulics, I found it very interesting Many thanks Barry

[@golhabaki]

@@manfromthemist1958 thank you once more and dont forget to keep throwing us more vídeos

[@ianforgie4448]

Hi, where did you get the drawing print out from please? Ian.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Ian, I got it from the service manual page 12 drive.google.com/file/d/1btmOrHfXx6Yz5iL5JT0KKHmzjawBQiYa/view?usp=drive_link go to my g drive and download the manual many thanks Barry

[@ianforgie4448]

I dont have a printer, how do I go about buying a guage from you? Ian.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Ian, just sent you an email with address on

[@ianforgie4448]

@@manfromthemist1958 Did you get my email asking for your bank details so I can send the money?

[@ianforgie4448]

@@manfromthemist1958 Did you get my email asking for your bank details so I can pay you?

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Ian setting gauge on it's way many thanks Barry

[@janiceanthony4370]

Did you ever find out where to get the parts you needed for the 990 chest valve?

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Janice, Yes Barcley Wiiliams in the UK has most of the parts and will refurbish your valve chest for you. thanks for watching barry

[@WilliamNooney]

We're can I find adjusting tool

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi if you have access to a 3D printer, go to drive.google.com/file/d/1DiIhY03Nd1_HTc7tk0BIk0c9viQhs2iV/view?usp=drive_link and bown load the stl file and print one off, don't forget you'll need to ream the two holes to .375" if you haven't, drop another comment and we'll work it out Cheers Barry

[@nernabachoco6769]

What problem hydraulic not working

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Nerna hydraulics were not working at all, valve chest completely siezed. many thanks Barry

[@David.Monkhouse]

Hi Barry - I wouldn't waste your time on that valve chest. I say this for a number of reasons, 1) even if you get all the parts out and clean them, you'll still have a worn valve chest as you can't buy replacement valves 2) even if you know what parts are missing it will be almost impossible to replace them 3) the spool valve needs to be set up to within a few thou and you need special DB tools to do that. The risk is that you put the tractor all back together again and fill it with oil, start the engine and the hydraulics don't work. Then in order to work on the valve chest or replace it you'll have to take the ramshaft out again which requires the top link sensing unit, quadrant, control housing and dump valve all being removed. Either take a risk on a replacement valve chest from a breakers or pay a bit and get a refurbished unit from Barclay Williams. Given the time and effort you are spending on the tractor and that it will be immaculate when you're done, it deserves a new valve chest.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Cheers David, yes I'm giving it very serious thought, as I don't want to cause more damage again deliberately just through trying to save a couple of quid Barry

[@shanebush9226]

@@manfromthemist1958 Definitely give Barkley Williams a call. While the valves themselves are match ground and are not replaceable individually, the parts inside the valves should be. For instance in your bypass valve there should be a nylon screen, a disc with a 20 thousandths hole in the center, the brass screw you found and a spring up to the valve cap screw. There's some variation depending on the year of the tractor though. I'm not sure if these parts are available but Barkley Williams would be able to tell you and give advice on what to do. As for the hold valve plunger, the advise given on the forums by ollek and several others is to drive a wooden dowel that's tight to the valve plunger bore down into it. Once the dowel is driven in, you might be able to get a grip on it and extract the valve plunger. I can attest to this working as my hold valve was stuck a few years ago when I was first getting my tractor back into service and this method worked for me. I've seen another video of a guy using a concrete anchor bolt and making a sort of make shift slide hammer to get it out. Will email you that video link.

[@manfromthemist1958]

@@shanebush9226 cheers Shane, I've also seen the vid with the anchor bolt, got nothing to loose

[@bryanburrows7239]

B S

[@أحمدالبقار-ض7ذ]

نرجو تعريب محتوى هذا الفيديو

[@manfromthemist1958]

مرحبًا أحمد ، يرجى مشاهدة الغزل الخاص بي صباح الأحد ، آمل أن يشرح كيف يمكنك تشغيل الترجمة العربية في كل مقطع فيديو. شكرا جزيلا لمشاهدة باري