Mamiya RB67 Video Manual 2 of 2: Operation, Mount Lens, Load Film, Flash Use, & Double Exposures

[@ernestslenss6405]

Thank You very much for the tutorial! Every other video is a hipster talking about their photoshoots and how heavy it is.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you. I do try to fill the void of detailed tutorials.

[@Being_Joe]

This made me laugh. True, there is a lot of misinformation out there.

[@jonathanclarke5763]

@@DavidHancock I would just like to know, do these mamiya lenses for the rb/z67 having an apeture ring or is the focusing all done with the bellows. Im told that the mamiya lenses for the rz67 pro ii lens do not have any moving glass parts. Is this the case for the rb67 pro sd C K/L lenses as well? I cant find any information at all on this anywhere. Its not clearly stated.

[@DavidHancock]

@@jonathanclarke5763 The lenses do have an aperture ring and focusing is controlled by the bellows, both are correct. Also, the RB series does not have a floating elements like the RZ cameras have.The RB pro lenses (C/K/L) will work on the RB67, but no RZ lenses will work. Just make sure that you buy an RB-mount lens not an RZ mount lens.

[@jonathanclarke5763]

@@DavidHancock Thank you. Just to be clear what is a floating element and what does that mean?

[@sharonleibel]

Finally someone gives a good explanation on the graphical compensation scale for the RB and RZ. It drove me nuts!

[@DavidHancock]

It's really confusing. A year ago I could not have explained how to use it.

[@ThaShooterFiles]

This was the greatest education video for how to use something I’ve ever seen. Seriously thank you

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@sy_chev]

so far the best Mamiya RB67 guide I ever watched

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@guillaumejousset9469]

These videos are absolute reference for the RB67 Pro, thanks a lot! 👌

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@jamesallen5591]

Great video. I just bought my first RB67 today, and am just waiting for it to arrive. This is very educational for me.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@SirPreston913]

Same here, hope it's everything you were expecting!

[@nandoshinken]

So much things i didn't knew ! These cameras are so old and sometimes tricky when we buy them, that we already have to make a lot of cleaning, changing lightseals, repairing bellows, etc... so thank you so much for that huge review of tips and appropriate use !

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@muratkahya]

in the beginning, I thought that it's really slow and boring but now I watched all of them in the end really useful and knowledgeable. Congrats!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! These start out slow and go from basic operation to more complex. So my hope is always that people get something out of them.

[@TimDobbs]

Excellent pair of videos ... I recently bought an RB67 and this info is far easier to understand than just reading the manual ... thank you :-)

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@aristoioannidis7490]

Thanks David. I have a much better understanding of the depth of field and exposure settings using the RB67 lenses. Your 2 videos are a great reference point and no doubt will be used by many users, especially the newbies. Thanks again for taking the time to create this series.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@andrewlawrence1]

I was recently gifted this camera and your 2 videos answered just about every question that I had. thank you for making a to the point tutorial.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@ipodtouch1107]

15:30 the expose compensation is very very helpful. Thank you so much.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@monsieurgolem3392]

So this is only if the lens is racked out completely?

[@glennhunt4945]

I would like to add an update to this great video. Many digital photographers are moving to use film and this video shows how to use one of the best cameras available, a medium format camera, the Mamiya RB67. A mechanical beast from the 1970s that still takes great photos. There are many quirks in this system that make the camera hard to use, at first. But once you get use to this system, it is well worth the 'bother'. As others have mention buyer beware as there are cameras out there that break down or unusable. You can buy an RZ that works, for awhile but once it is broken; that is it, you cannot fix it. In addition, you need to fix on going problems like camera leaks and lens problems. But the results are worth it. This is not the only medium format camera you should consider, the 6x6 and other formats are worthwhile. Once bitten you will want more gear and a darkroom of your own.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you and I concur!

[@bschoon12]

Have been looking for the perfect tutorial for YEARS for my Mamiya. Thank you David for taking the time to break it down for us!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@jenrickmielke6030]

THANK YOU!!! Those are the only words i have for this. SO helpful!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@JohnTobison]

Thanks!

[@DavidHancock]

@@JohnTobison thank you!

[@jaycho1029]

Best video for new RB users period.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@jimcook3882]

David, a super XLNT video on the RB. Mine is arriving any minute from Japan and I now have confidence in getting the BEAST working properly. Thanks again!!

[@DavidHancock]

Nice and thank you!

[@jcaldrey1039]

Outstanding video, the two part series is like a 6 in 2 videos... super clean and helpful. Congratulations and thanks.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@minkymott]

Excellent video. I learned how to store my lenses. Had no idea.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@minkymott]

@@DavidHancock I like your video, because it gets right to it. I don't have to sit through you telling me about your dog and what you ate that morning.

[@DavidHancock]

@@minkymott You're welcome. I have that stuff for the comments anyway. Steinbeck is a 42-pound German Shorthaired Pointer, all brown, who hates rabbits with a passion. For breakfast I made two eggs and had iced coffee because I didn't have time to brew hot coffee.

[@JimSollows]

This is the BEST RB67 video I’ve seen .. and as a new RB67 owner I’ve seen a lot! Unfortunately the link to video 1 is broken? I would love to see that video!!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you and I'll fix it tonight when I get to a computer. You can check out my channel videos on the meantime and video 1 should be at the top.

[@DavidHancock]

Oh interesting. Video 1 didn't go live. I must have set the schedule date to the wrong time. I can't fix that from my phone. Thank you I'll get in that shortly.

[@dcchong8102]

Thanks for putting in all the effort to make such informative video, thank you so much.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@Suburude]

Awesome video 🤩

[@qozeemlawal5169]

You are a gift to humanity

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@philmtx3fr]

Wonderful video David. I learnt all I needed to use my « new » RB67 in 30mins and thx for that. I am eager to test it on the field now, but what a big camera !!!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! These are super capable cameras. Have fun!

[@rt83021]

Tonight we bought two of these cameras from a friend. One has the 90mm lens one has the 180mm lens. Both bodies look to be in great shape. We got two 120 backs and one 220 back. As I was watching these two videos I had one of them on my desk, and followed along. The only issue I might have is teh slides that lock teh backs onone doesn't seem to slide as far as the other one, but I don't know how far they are supposed to slide. In the mid 80s I used a RZ67 as a second shooter on a livestock show gig. So having these cameras is like a trip down memory lane for me..I can't wait to shoot with them...Thankd for the videos, I am sure I will have to watch them a few times to get the whole concept.

[@DavidHancock]

Oh nice! The 180 is an especially fantastic lens. These take a while to start to really make sense, but once they do they make a lot of sense.

[@rt83021]

@@DavidHancock As I was looking at them, I found the pro viewfinder does in fact have a magnifier, just under the cover, there is a release on the cover that you slide and it pops up when you slide the release. The magnifier is actually attached to the cover. Just an FYI.

[@karmatopden3417]

You are the best! Very clear and direct explanation 🎉

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@Rikco.337]

Very good video, thanks a lot for explaining the details of the RB67, I love this camera !

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@andyvan5692]

thankyou for a tutorial on the motorised back, only one I have found, so great to see one (as not as common as the 645 back, or the standard pro\pro-s backs).

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! Yeah, the motor back is uncommon.

[@jimwlouavl]

Great explanation of the focal distance/bellows factor graph. That was a brilliant piece of design as is the EV calculator. This is just an amazing camera.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you and I agree completely about the design.

[@karmatopden3417]

Thank you so much, I finally u distant the focusing scale and compensating!

[@DavidHancock]

Nice!

[@barbaralopes540]

Thank you very much for the tutorial David!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you, Barbara!

[@pelinantoine5811]

David, you are a legend!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@J.ortegadesign]

Thank you so much for this video!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@TheMrMKultra]

Hey David, thank you for making this series! It's really helpful. I'm glad I subscribed to your channel many months ago

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you and I'm glad you subscribers, too!

[@dmytrochaika7570]

Thank you, David!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@franzscaramelli2651]

Thank you. Best camera video I have seen.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@TheWriterforhire]

Great video! I was on the fence about a motor drive till I watched your excellent description of it! Thank you, I subscribed.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@Robin-mq4bp]

This video is excellent. I am buying one of these cameras off someone one Sunday and I am confident on what to check for before I buy. Great video and good job for the in-depth knowledge of camera functions and set up. Thank you

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@ulrikchristiansen]

That was an excellent walkthrough of the camera, which I just bought :). Thank you very much indeed!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@JerzyRugby]

I just bought this camera today and can`t wait to shoot some photos. Although I read the original manual it`s very useful to see all these functions live and in motion. Great video for a great camera! Thank you :)

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you and enjoy! These are fun cameras to use.

[@tirsogonzalez199]

Perfect video, your relay know your RB. Great

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@kickstart9853]

Great tour and explanation of every single feature. Nice to get right to it and move through the list quickly. A+. Keep them coming.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@thewildgoose7467]

Great video spread over the two parts and very informative. I actually shot with an RB67 many years ago and this was very helpful in refreshing the memory now that I'm returning to film photography. You also taught me some things I didn't even know when using it the first time around!!. Excellent job and thanks for putting out these videos.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@sarajcory7425]

Thank you for your detailed instruction videos I have a new to me RB 67 and I thought something was wrong with the film carriage when it stopped advancing at 10 pictures; duh. 🤣. Reloaded and often running again

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you and lol.

[@shinichihayakawa7619]

19:06 To read exposure compensation values, you need to ignore the sloping lines altogether and focus on the row of bricks for your lens' focal length. So in this case, you can find the correct exposure compensation value of +0.5 (but close to +1) by checking the row #3 for 180mm.

[@DavidHancock]

That's not exactly correct. The sloping lines are used to make it easier to identify which exposure compensation amount to use. It is correct that the brick identify the amount of compensation, yes.

[@shinichihayakawa7619]

@@DavidHancock Please see pages 24 and 25 (actual paper pages) of Mamiya RB67 Instructions here: www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_rb67_professional.pdf

[@DavidHancock]

So the manual seems to agree with my description, especially the photo on the left, which shows a cross-reference of the distance scale (curved line) with the subway tile bricks to identify the needed compensation.

[@shinichihayakawa7619]

@@DavidHancock Hi David, I'm not sure what you mean by "a coss-reference". Only one curved line is highlighted in red in this photo, and there is NO mention of exposure compensation in this section titled "Distance Scale". Is there any chance you are confusing "distance graduation" with the subway tile bricks (=exposure compensation scale)? "Distance graduation"--as you can see on p.6--is the vertical scale in meter and feet affixed to the front end of the camera's main body. It's not the bricks. Also, supposing your description is correct, when the scale shows the pattern shown in the 2nd photo on p.24, you cannot determine the compensation value because the slope for 127mm lens is truncated before it reaches the distance graduation!

[@jpcgordon]

Great video! Just got my RB67 Pro SD in the post today.

[@DavidHancock]

Nice! They're really fantastic cameras.

[@jpcgordon]

@@DavidHancock I just shot and developed my first roll of HP5 with it and the negatives look great. I'll be scanning them in later today.

[@urionandon]

amazing explanations

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@giuseppecrescitelli4505]

Great David! Tank you. 🤗📸🍀✌️

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@alanread6596]

Another exellent video very informative like the first one

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@markglore7196]

Very informative! Thank you!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you, Mark!

[@chrisallen5548]

Thanks, handy tips - shame you don't have any in stock.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! Yeah, I just sold the one in this video a few weeks ago, too.

[@MsAndrewpearson]

Awesome videos! Thank You so much !!!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@HuyNguyen-lu3zj]

I think at 28:37 you mean to say that the shutter speed at 1/125 is "twice" as fast as at 1/60 (not half as fast). Twice as fast = half the light. Thanks for this very helpful video!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! You're correct. I goofed on that.

[@ivaa7777JAWA]

Great information

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@waypastbedtime]

Thanks! Very Helpful. I just got gifted one of these and am working it out....

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@tygsward4237]

Amazing video

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@luissalazar2021]

Very nice, thanks for sharing, I want to see some pictures please, thanks

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! I'm still working on the review. It was derailed first by the camera having to go in for repairs (which too many months) and then by me running out of 120 film and spending a big chunk of this year unemployed and not able to restock. I'm planning to finish with this camera next year as early as I can.

[@paultaylorphotography9499]

Outstanding info mate wish I’d watched this before diving in 😂thanks loads 📷❤️📷

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@paultaylorphotography9499]

@@DavidHancock my pleasure mate

[@fernandoescubos5388]

Thank you far that really helpful video. I only have one doubt: first you press the body shutter with the cable release and then you press the lens shutter with a second cable release, and that´s all, then you can try another photo?. Because I have seen other confusing videos where is told that you need to change from position T to 1 second in order to stop taking of the photo. Thanks

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! It's been years since I made this video and sold the camera, so I'm a bit rusty on the process. For what you're asking, the best advice I have is to try it without film. Run through the process you're attempting before you do it with film. I recall the shutter in the camera only being present to prevent light from reaching the film and then shutter in the lens being the one that controls the exposure timing.

[@dougelick8397]

Great video. A few points though. On some lenses, the front control isn't just a DoF calculator, but it actually adjusts a floating element for greater sharpness. Also, you don't really need 2 shutter releases to use MLU. You can just press the shutter button with your finger, then use a release for the lens.

[@DavidHancock]

I know that the RZ67 had a floating element. I didn't think the RB did. On one of my lenses at least the scale was just a metal disc within a housing and it had no connection to anything.

[@dougelick8397]

The RB67 50 and 65mm C lenses (and maybe older) have a floating element. I think the 90mm KL does to.

[@DavidHancock]

@@dougelick8397 oh got it. I haven't used those lenses. Thank you!

[@davidpesnell770]

Super tutorial. Much appreciated

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@fredmckellar3017]

Most excellent info/presentation, thanks!!! Have you made one on through and through cleaning and or restoration, seals etc.? (I’m looking through your channel for them)😀

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! I do have a video uploaded on replacing light seals with yarn (demonstrated on a 35mm SLR) and I did do that repair on this camera. It's a lot more work and time to clean it (I used more than 100 cotton swabs when I cleaned mine) but the process is basically the same.

[@brineb58]

GREAT info, thanks!!!.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@larrywilliams5708]

Thanks for in depth review of the RB. I recently purchased a ProSD with a 90mm 3.5 and love it. I would like to add a 65mm to my kit but wondering if the K/L version is worth the extra price optically compared to the Sekor C? Your thoughts are appreciated.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! I like the C lenses. I've not used the K/L lenses but am told they can be too sharp. I think the question ultimately comes down to use and cost-benefit analysis. Is the added cost worth the money for the way you'll use the photos? If so, go for it. If not, the C lenses are excellent.

[@zakalomari9894]

great video!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@andyvan5692]

good video, one other reason for loading the reel that way, like this camera, the Linhof 56x72 magasines for their tecknika cameras uses the numbering system backwards, ie you see the numbering from the non-lens side, an oval slot cut out of the supporting surface that makes up the pressure plate face on the other side, this shows the 'counter', it isn't one though, just a "tapemeasure" on the film backing paper itself, showing position in real time of where the film is.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! I didn't know that about the Linhof magazines.

[@andyvan5692]

@@DavidHancock yes, and early Hasselblads were the same too, the one with the asa disk on the back, you lift up the disk, and there is a 'red window' sight glass for doing this same thing, to see the paper numbering.

[@marksummers5504]

Great job as usual! I’m looking forward to seeing you review the RZ67 (Pro i & ii) at some point.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! They're on the list for the batch after the ones I'm currently working on. (Right now I'm early in a batch of about 30 cameras, so it will be a while.)

[@Nat.ImagesLarge.F.Photographer]

Ok David,answer not necessary,problem solved,I find the adapter, thanks have a great weekend!

[@DavidHancock]

Fantastic!

[@sailinghooponopono2457]

Very good and intructive video. Just noe minor thing; you do not nede a cabel release for the mirror lockup, you just nede noe for the shutter. Theoreticly if you have everything set, focused and composed, you can release the mirror with your finger on the normal shutter release button. You don't release the shutter until using cable release on the lens...

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@Nightwatch1986]

Great tutorial! Do you think you can do a video with the K/l floating lens system?

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! At some point I would like to visit the RZ67. I don't have an RZ to use, however.

[@retromograph3893]

Great vids, many thanks!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@jodyperalta8924]

On the top of the camera by the film advance lever the red dot is supposed to be visible.right I ordered a rb67 from Japan and sent it back because I didn't know how to use it.i got another and realized that I feel bad i didn't know how to cock the lever on the side and top.thought it was broken

[@DavidHancock]

It has been a few years since I sold this camera, but I think that yes you are correct. Don't feel too badly about sending it back. The seller will sell it to someone else. I ran an online camera store for about six years and cameras came back from people who didn't understand how to use them from time to time. It's fine and the cost of return shipping is built into the profit margin. Accepting returns is part of retail.

[@atl_mx5]

thanks for this, very useful. just got my first rb67. quick question, my dark slide won't stay in, it always protrudes a couple mm. any easy fix for that?

[@DavidHancock]

Does the dark slide fully cover the negative when the film back is removed?

[@atl_mx5]

@@DavidHancock yep! When the film back is removed, it’s locked and covers the whole back. When I have it attached the dark slide doesn’t want to stay in, it’s slips out a couple millimeters. 🤷‍♂️

[@atl_mx5]

@@DavidHancock I found the issue. The tiny screws holding the plate that sandwiches the dark slide in the film back were loose

[@geoffc1862]

Great couple of videos, thanks. When one loads film into the back, does the arrow on the film have anything raised to feel? I'm trying to get my head around how to correctly load film, such as infrared, using a dark changing bag.

[@DavidHancock]

Nope, no different feel to it. If you load your film indoors, especially in a room without windows, even IR film should be okay to load outside of a dark bag. I've also loaded IR film into cameras outside in the shade of a tree and it's been okay. 120 backing paper is pretty resilient.

[@geoffc1862]

@@DavidHancock Thanks David.

[@edinburghtumuran916]

Just got my Mamiya RB67. That tutorial is wonderful! Keep it coming! But I have a query. In multi-exposure, is there a need to move the lever beside the cocking lever of the film for the red dot to be exposed before the film can be exposed twice? Thanks in advannce!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! For double exposures, don't advance the film, simply ignore the red dot, re-arm the shutter on the camera, and fire away. Advance once you're done with the multiple-exposure image.

[@sailinghooponopono2457]

Remember also if you have a lens with floating front elements, you need to adjust focus on front part of the lens, according to initial focus readout on the side.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@torben_sc]

Just got my Mamiya today and my first step was watching your both Videos. They are fantastic, thank you very much! I hope it will keep my Mamiya and many more alive longer. Just one last bigger question for storing the camera. When you disarm your camera body and lens. Do you protect the camera body which is now open or do you just keep it likes this, because there isn't much to get damaged? And when you protect it, like a digital camera also needs to, how do you do it?

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! If you have only one lens, then just trip the camera's shutter before storing and leave the lens on. If you have two lenses then trip the one that's not on the camera's body and repeat the process earlier for the camera and lens. That's the easiest way. That said if you need to store them separately for space then there are lens front and rear caps that you can get. they're not new so they tend to be expensive, however.

[@btrdangerdan2010]

Great content as always.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you, Dan!

[@D_L_J_83]

Thank you! Is there such a motorised 645 back for the RB67 as well?

[@DavidHancock]

Not to my knowledge, but there are a lot of accessories for these that I'm not familiar with.

[@mamiyapress]

Thanks again David for your continued excellent series on film cameras and film. I have just one question that I am unclear on. When using the two cable release system, do I not lock up the mirror first on the lens, then trip the shutter on the body, it looks the opposite in the video, thanks in advance.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! When you trigger the camera release, the lens leaf shutter closes before the mirror pops up. Then the release on the lens opens and closes the lens shutter.

[@mamiyapress]

@@DavidHancock Got it, thanks.

[@ZommBleed]

mamiyapress He said it backwards. At least he didn't drop this camera or expensive, delicate lens.

[@DavidHancock]

Not this time.

[@silekiernanphotography]

Thank you David! All the detail is much appreciated, very helpful. Who did you use to repair your camera?

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you, Sile! I sent it to Phototronic in Topeka, Kansas.

[@silekiernanphotography]

@@DavidHancock Thank you David! I have an RZ67 and you have been a great help!

[@josefinaerosa7356]

Great video! I have a question. If I have the dark slide on the camera, even thought I trigger my shutter I wont be taking a photo, right? I will only waste my film and take a photo just if I take the dark slide off.?

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you and correct, but I don't think that the shutter will fire if the dark slide is in place.

[@josefinaerosa7356]

@@DavidHancock Thanks!!

[@myfavoritethings1967]

Hey, I can’t rotate my focus ring all the time, sometimes it locks up. Any suggestions ??! thanks

[@DavidHancock]

I'd run that past the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows more about Mamiyas than anyone on KZbin and repaired the one in this video. He'll know if it's an easy fix.

[@tedtuel]

Hello-great video! My motor drive doesn’t advance when I use the shutter. I have to hit a switch on the back and then it advances. Am I doing something wrong? It is not set to MULTI. Thanks

[@DavidHancock]

Hmm. I feel like there's a switch on the back for that, but I sold my RB67 kit about a year ago and I don't recall for sure.

[@gabrysgabriukas]

Thank you for the video . But still I am not sure how to use time mode for long exposures. when you cock the shutter it will close shutter but still you will shake the camera by hand. Cable is worthless in time mode for closing. I really would like bulb mode instead of time.

[@DavidHancock]

Time mode is the same as bulb mode, but with time you can walk away from the camera and you don't need a locking cable to do that. With time, use it like bulb but with two button presses instead of one long one, which is where the cable comes in handy because you can use that to absorb the shock of triggering the shutter. Using two cables you can first trigger the mirror inside the camera and then wait for some seconds until the camera stops shaking before triggering the second cable to open the leaf shutter.

[@gabrysgabriukas]

@@DavidHancock I tried already time mode with two cables and mirror lock up. Still when I want to close leaf shutter I can't. I press cable (which is conected to the lens) second time and it does not close leaf shutter. Maybe its some problem inside the lens mechanics. Also what I found in the internet " So, unfortunately, the only way to close the shutter in T mode is to either turn the shutter speed ring, or by advancing the cocking lever on the side of the body. This is regardless of whether you are or are not using two cable releases. If you're afraid of moving the camera doing this, I recommend covering the lens with a lens cap to prevent any motion blur from you touching the camera."

[@mattgoff2722]

so incredibly helpful. thank you so much. a question: why is the distance-gauge on the RB67 Pro-S so different from the gauge on the RB67-Pro?

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! The Pro S was released with or after some lenses that didn't exist when this came out, so they added those lenses to that camera's distance gauge.

[@elevenseventeen6293]

Second question. After you load your film and you got to #1 , do you need to have your shutter cocked before hand or cocked after it reaches one.

[@DavidHancock]

Whenever. The lens shutter arming mechanism isn't linked to the film advance so they can be operated independently.

[@elevenseventeen6293]

Ok so this is actually what is happening right now, I am at one and my shutter was cocked already. I’m I good to go for my first shot?

[@elevenseventeen6293]

@@DavidHancock I think I understood your answer now!

[@rileyplays8188]

Thank you so much for this video - it's super informative! Totally gave me a much better grasp of the inner-workings of my camera. I've shot a couple rolls through my RB67 - and I have no problem using light meters or the sunny 16 rule - and I follow the photo, re-arm shutter, advance film steps, but the last roll I got back was all blank but one photo - and the previous one before that I only got three exposures from it. In my most recent roll, the photo that turned out - seconds after that photo I had snapped off another one before the lighting/conditions/anything changed, I didn't have to change any settings, but that photo that I remember taking came out blank on the roll. Is it something to do with how I am advancing the film, or...? My back has the little release lever underneath the advance film cock that I need to push to the left in order to let me advance the film - and I only have to do that when I have film loaded. When I'm going through the motions without film in there, I can advance the film as much as I'd like without pushing the release lever to the side. Can anyone shed some light on what the ffff I'm doing wrong haha, thanks guys!

[@DavidHancock]

Check your lens shutter as that's the most likely culprit. On my 90mm lens, it works if I hold the camera parallel to the ground when I arm it. BUT, if I hold the camera with the lens toward the sky when I arm the lens, the lens shutter will not fire. So you have a second lens that you can use for a roll or two to see if they come out? You can also test fire the lens a number of times with the film back off and look through the lens to see if you can see light through it when the shutter is fired. Keep the lens wide open for that test.

[@rileyplays8188]

@@DavidHancock You are a blessing! I don't have a second lens to test out - but your comment made me fiddle a little bit more than I had previously - I didn't really think it could be the lens that was the problem! At fast shutter speeds I hadn't taken any notice at all to the lack of "buzz" but when I try and take a one second exposure - there is huuuge delay between going through the motions up until firing the shutter, and then when the shutter finally opens to let the light in. It's like a solid... twenty second delay. Basically, enough delay to the point that when I've been shooting I've probably already put the lens cap back on. I've seen a few repair videos in which dirt and grease has caused a similar problem and they've had like... two second delays, so I wonder how dirty the threads in my lens are! haha, I'll definitely take it to a shop to get it repaired, or pick up a couple new lenses! Thank you so much for helping me pinpoint (i hope!) the problem!

[@rileyplays8188]

@@AppleGameification yoooo k! I ended up taking it to a guy at a camera shop who pretty much confirmed our suspicions here - it ended up being a pretty sticky lens on the inside and it was causing a delay in the shutter pretty much every time! I bought a new lens (on ebay again, haha oops) and swapped that out and it worked a treat, no more delayed photos! I started to get some light leaks in some of my photos, I think the light seals on the 120 back it came with were pretty worn - but I also just bought a new back to replace after I finish the roll I already loaded in... But for how cheap I got the camera on ebay, and even then despite the replacements, its still working out cheaper than had I bought it from a shop or something! And I'm sure you'll have a couple less problems than mine haha!!!

[@abbasashourlou888]

I´ve watched few videos about rb but these videos are gold and quite helpful, a question:i don’t have a lightmeter and i use mobile program for calculating,on your opinion sunny 16 is more better than application?

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! It depends on the app you use. Some are great others not, and that varies by your phone. I'd test its readings against another camera if you have one and if it's accurate in a few settings, go with the app.

[@johntyler2335]

Hi great video. Would have liked to see better lighting and more close ups but otherwise very informative. Thanks

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@richardcollins586]

Hi David, thanks for these informative videos. I have a Pro SD body and the Focusing steps are: 50, 65, 75, 90, 110, 127, 140, 150, 180, 210, 250, 360. Do you know why I have 12 steps and you have 7 steps? Thanks

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you, Richard. I'm going to guess that you have more steps solely because the SD was a newer camera made when more lenses had been released.

[@Feraltog]

So for MLU. After you fire the initial shutter. When you fire the leaf shutter you just hold it down for the duration of your shot then release. Or do you fire the main shutter again to end the exposure?

[@DavidHancock]

With MLU you trigger the camera's mirror and then the shutter. If you're shooting an exposure with a fixed time the lens does it automatically. If you're in bulb then you hold down the cable release button or lock it down for the exposure duration.

[@andyvan5692]

m setting is a 60 MS delay, before the shutter is triggered, aka advanced, so that the cheMicals can reach the required white balance, as they 'warm up' during this time; the Xenon bulbs (effectively fluorescent tubes- just a different gas inside), however get to WB instantly, so no need for this time delay.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@ivanradoslovic8229]

Hello, thank you for this informative video. Just one question about cable release. Why exactly is better 2 cables then original mamiya 2 in 1. Because when you half press mamiya one it acctivste shutter button on camera and swhen you press it ful it acctivates leaf shutter?

[@DavidHancock]

Good question. The Mamiya cable is a fixed timing interval. Two cables is more user control. Also, the two in one cables tend to be a lot more expensive.

[@ivanradoslovic8229]

@@DavidHancock they are very expensive yes. But, you can wait when you half press for as much as you want?

[@DavidHancock]

@@ivanradoslovic8229 I don't recall that on mine, but if the double release works better there's no reason not to go that route

[@ivanradoslovic8229]

@@DavidHancock okay. thank you very much for answering. Just another quesion, for long exposure. Is there any way to do it, when you want to close shutter, to do that without touching the camera (so there isnt any shake to camera)?

[@DavidHancock]

@@ivanradoslovic8229 Yes there is. With B, simply lock the release cables when the shutter is open. Unlock it when you're done with the exposure.

[@raymundolunalopez638]

Thank you, I want to ask how to take long exposures with this.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! Simply use the bulb (B) shutter speed on the shutter dial and use a locking shutter release cable to hold it open.

[@vasiliscaravitis1706]

Thanks very much, David for the presentation. I have the same camera (RB67 Professional) with 220 and 120 backs. The 220 back properly displays a red dot when the shot is taken but the 120 back does not; so I need to do guesswork as regards the exposure status of each frame. Would you think that this is something I could fix myself if I dismantle the back upper part? Also, I'd like to know whether 120 backs from other RB67 versions are compatible with mine. I would appreciate you response.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! I have a 120 back with that fault and have not bothered to fix it. What I did was get into a routine of advancing as soon as the photo is taken unless I have a reason not to, then I don't worry about the frames overlapping. As for the repair, check with the Fix Old Cameras channel. He knows more about Mamiyas than anyone on KZbin having been a Mamiya repair tech for many, many years.

[@AgnostosGnostos]

With sunny f/16 the shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of the ISO. Snow and sand reflect the sun rays and can be blinding with sunny weather. The amount of light that reaches the sensor or film is higher than a typical area with sunny weather. In that case with f/22, the shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of the ISO. With shady f/8 rule the shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of the ISO too. However what is shady or overcast weather isn't very specific. Another rule is the shooting of moon with Looney f/11 rule. The shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of the ISO. Finally in the case of a sunny day is easy to change apertures and predict the proper shutter speed. With f/16 the shutter speed will be the reciprocal value of that ISO. With f/11 the shutter speed should be one stop faster of the reciprocal value of ISO. With f/8 the shutter speed two stops faster of the reciprocal value of ISO. For example with fixed ISO 100 during a sunny day. f/16 and 1/100th sec f/11 and 1/200th sec f/8 and 1/400th sec The manual selection of shutter speed isn't so difficult after all and with the use of hyperfocal distance or zone focusing the manual mode is easy with film or digital cameras. I use manual focus lenses with mirrorless cameras and this rules and methods are very helpful. A good convenient way for film cameras without photometer is to use an iPhone app as a light meter.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@alzathoth]

so when using the time exposure, the shutter stays open until you recock it. but won't you get camera shake when you recock the lever? thank you so much for this video. i have been considering the RB for many years for my new jump to medium format.

[@DavidHancock]

I'm trying to recall. I thought there was a way to close it without rearming the shutter. You can always put the lens cap back on before ending the time exposure, too.

[@adeaeae]

Thanks so much. You rule man.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@adeaeae]

@@DavidHancock curious, what's your favorite 120 film to shoot?

[@DavidHancock]

@@adeaeae hmm. That's a hard one. Horses for courses, really. I like different films in different settings. There are very, very few films now that disappoint with any regularity because the engineering it so good. If I had to pick some that I like, Ektar, Velvia 50, Delta 100, and HP5+ all come to mind. What kind of subjects do you shoot? I might be able to suggest some others.

[@adeaeae]

@@DavidHancock I just purchased some Ektar 100 and Fuji Pro 400h from my local camera shop (they didn't have much else) and I want to photograph a series of neon shop signs with "magic hour' natural lighting. Do you have any suggestions?

[@DavidHancock]

@@adeaeae 400H has a green tint. To my eyes, it's strong. So avoid shops with fluorescent lights if possible as that will really come out strongly in the 400H. You can always shoot a roll of that and if you find the green too strong get a purple fluorescent correction filter if you want to reduce the green. Ektar might be a bit slow, but if you use longer exposures, which could be a great look, too, as you'd blur any moving thefts in the shots, then you might get great results.

[@matttwomey3326]

Hi David, I have a RB 67 which I purchased several years ago, in a moment of alcoholic bliss which I have never used. I have the time now and I am looking forward to having a go. I have ordered a full set of seals and I am awaiting delivery. I am a seasoned Mamiya TLR user delivering excellent results for a number of years. I absolutely love the TLR but I want a bit more. Problem: The back of the RB is set in Portrait Mode and will not transfer to Landscape Mode. What can I do? Thanks, Kind Regards, Matt Twomey.

[@DavidHancock]

Hmm. Curious. Is the rotation lock release depressing or stuck?