DC-DC Charger Wire Installation

This video is short and sweet. I show the installation of new cable to connect the starter battery in front to a 30A DC-DC charger in the rear and reveal a few tips on the process. The vehicle is a Toyota Sienna and the cable is an 8 gauge pure copper welding cable. The actual process took a couple of hours. Each step is somewhat time-consuming if you are trying to be careful to make sure the wire is protected and the vehicle is undamaged in the end.
I have a separate video with details on the specific DC-DC charger I installed so this video is pretty generic. I hope you find it it useful if you are taking on the same kind of project.
Please check out my channel for awesome videos on MiniCamperVans :D

[@frankt604]

This works exactly according to your KZbin. Thank you for this. I see other KZbinrs using a drill in places which is what I don’t want to do.

[@BruceParks]

I’m glad this was useful for you.

[@ran6110]

Nicely done, I liked that you showed how to follow the existing wire path instead of just laying it down with a tape cover!

[@BruceParks]

Yup, clean and hidden.

[@a.w.thompson4001]

Thanks for showing us how to do this, and without making holes in the car! Love it.

[@BruceParks]

Glad it was helpful!

[@holowatyco.5437]

Hi, Bruce, of all the van builds I've watched, I like your design the best. I'll be trying to copy it in my build of my caravan.. Thanks for sharing

[@BruceParks]

I'm glad you like my design. Feel free to ask questions during your build.

[@frankt604]

Where is the alternator connection please? I got the non isolated Orion 12/12/30. 2019 Toyota Sienna. I’m running the wire like you did and your video was great. I’m assuming you went through the firewall where the bundled wires come through.

[@BruceParks]

Hey Frank, I connected the lead to the positive terminal on the starter battery. Since the alternator output cable is connected directly to the battery positive terminal you can connect to either location.

[@nustar1]

Excellent!

[@BruceParks]

Many thanks!

[@gabrielzheng2268]

Thanks for the video. So where did you connect your negative wire from the battery to the Van.

[@BruceParks]

I attached the negative directly to the chassis using a big sheetmetal screw in the rear well. I had hoped to use one of the mounting studs for the 3rd row seats but the electrical continuity wasn't good enough.

[@jonb719]

@@BruceParks Follow-up question - Did you move it back to the mounting stud? The one seen @ 1:25 in your video "power system gets moved to the basement".

[@BruceParks]

@jonb719 Good eye. I found the ground continuity to be good at the 3rd row seat mounting stud on the right side so I went with it. I can’t explain why the left side wasn’t good enough the last time I tried it.

[@nomad9615]

EXCELLENT JOB BRUCE ! LOVE YOUR ENGINEERING ! I've watched all the videos. Trying to replicate on my Kia Sedona.

[@BruceParks]

Hoping your Sedona build goes well

[@bobw9297]

what did you get for a charger and did you use the day time running lights for your auto on/off

[@BruceParks]

I got the Renogy DC-DC w/MPPT charger. It’s got an integrated auto on/off.

[@lalitarora6722]

Hi Bruce thanks for your inspiring videos. I've borrowed your side cubbies for my build. I have one question and I hope you can help. You show the positive of your starter battery connected to renogy mppt. What about the negative? Is connecting only positive enough? Can you explain what to do to complete the circuit? I connected -ve from my starter battery to my -ve bus bar and positive to mppt and there is no alternator charging. Should I remove -ve?

[@BruceParks]

First, all of the negatives need to be connected together, either at the same point like a negative bus bar or through chassis ground. For example, in mine the starter battery neg is connected to chassis ground (as manufactured), the house battery neg is connected to the negative bus bar, all of the load negs go to the neg bus bar, the Renogy DC-DC charger neg is connected to the neg bus bar, and the neg bus bar is connected to chassis ground in the rear well. I show the connection in this video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/javCoZKgnJh_ndk) and the electrical diagram here (bit.ly/3Pkc7WL). Second, you mention using a Renogy MPPT. Is this their DC-DC MPPT or basic MPPT for solar charging? It needs to be the DC-DC MPPT for alternator charging. Hope this was clear. Please reply if not. I want your build to be safe.

[@blancoschmidt1]

Well done!

[@BruceParks]

Thank you!

[@Followmyleash]

Hi Bruce, thank you for sharing! How can I tell what size of the circuit breaker should I use?

[@BruceParks]

The circuit breaker (CB) size to use will depend on which charger you want to use. In my case, the Renogy DCC30 is a 30 amp charger and they specify using a 45 amp fuse (or CB) on the input wire and a 40 amp fuse on the output wire. For the input wire (from the car battery to the input of the charger, as I showed in the video) I couldn’t find a 45 amp CB I liked so I went with a 50 amp CB, rated for wet conditions since I mounted it under the hood.

[@TuanPham-kq2pm]

Just wondering where u buy red positive cover on ur breaker ?

[@BruceParks]

Originally got them here but it looks like they might not stock them any more. solarseller.com/battery_terminal_cable_lug_covers_and_protectors.htm

[@frankchimento2080]

Hi Bruce, how did you get the wire through the firewall? I can't find any openings. I see a rubber grommet in the engine bay that feeds wires through the firewall, did you make a hole in the grommet to follow that path? Appreciate any info, thanks!

[@BruceParks]

Hi Frank, yes, the big grommet is the key. There’s one on the driver side and one on the passenger side. In the video, I pull the new wire through the driver side grommet. A year later, I redid everything and pulled it through the passenger side instead. Either way, it helps to precut a hole that’s just smaller than the wire in order for the wire pulling process to go okay. Too small a hole causes a lot of frustration. Lube (like WD-40) helps the process.

[@frankchimento2080]

@@BruceParks Thank you Bruce! Seems like a difficult job, but there's no turning back now. I really appreciate the additional tips. I just found the grommet on the passenger side in the engine bay. Since you've done both sides now, and fed it to the basement, would you recommend one side over the other? Also, it seems from the video that you pushed it up into the engine bay from under the driver's seat, or did i get that backwards?

[@frankchimento2080]

Thank you for all the tips, I pushed it up through the passenger side, and it was actually quite easy, and the lubrication helped as well!

[@dickspade7045]

Great info, thanks.

[@BruceParks]

You’re very welcome

[@arunakalu]

So you only have to wire the positive from the battery to the DC2DC? Where do you get the negative from? I want to do this for my RAV4 so to power my camping trailer. Thank You kindly.

[@BruceParks]

I connected the negative to the frame/body directly. You can see it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/javCoZKgnJh_ndk

[@arunakalu]

@@BruceParks Thank You so much. This will help me a great deal. Good luck to you in your adventures!!

[@leolongo9178]

I have two questions: 1) What do you use for heat when the engine is not running? (Those really cold nights on the road) 2) Do you think your roof rack (used to mount the solar panel) would support a carrier, like a Thule? Thank you, Leo

[@BruceParks]

1) Shared bodily warmth 🙂. When traveling alone, I add a comforter. We’ve only gone down to 25° together and we were warm enough though there was ice on the inside of the windshield. 2) Hard to say. It’s pretty strong but added a big load might overstress the hose clamps. I imagine doubling up on the hose clamps would help a lot. I haven’t tried anything beyond the solar panel though.

[@BSerrell4]

@@BruceParks Unfortunately I read that the Sienna roof rack is only rated for something around 100lb. You have to be thrifty with your added weight on this car.

[@BruceParks]

I see pictures of people putting heavy loads up there. Would be great to hear about their experiences. My solar panel is a little under 20 lbs so very little risk.

[@BSerrell4]

I trolled around on line and found that the OEM crossbars are rated at 150lb static weight. (The owners manual for our 2012 does not state a weight limit.) You have room to grow beyond your solar panel, but I would not put a rooftop tent on one of these vehicles. Because a roof box like a Thule would add weight of its own, I have not spent the money on something that will have to be use-restricted to bulky lightweight items like small tents, pop-up shower shelter, and sleeping bags, OK, but not food, water jugs, large gazebos, propane tanks, etc.

[@autumndawn5531]

Thanks for sharing Bruce! What did you use to mount the circuit breaker? Thanks

[@BruceParks]

It’s velcro’ed to a piece of PVC trim (the kind of boards used for exterior house trim).

[@autumndawn5531]

That's smart! Thanks @@BruceParks

[@rambaldis]

@@BruceParks What did you use to attach the velcro to the plastic filter cover? Thx

[@BruceParks]

Velcro strips are available with adhesive on the back.

[@rambaldis]

@@BruceParks Thanks!

[@CalFunInSun]

Where is your “separate video with details on specific DC to DC Charger? I sorted your uploads by date and don’t see anything with a title that might include that... ?

[@a.w.thompson4001]

He named the charger model in his response to a comment below. It's a Renogy.

[@BruceParks]

My apologies, I haven’t uploaded that video yet. I’m just wrapping up the editing and should have it up this weekend. Thanks for asking!

[@BruceParks]

@CalFunInSun The video with the DC-DC charger details is here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e2GpfZyladB7i6c