Breakers vs. Fuses in the Heat // DC-DC Charging System Update

[@ourtimetorv3151]

Thx Scott. I just got done with the 3000w Multiplus, BMV712 and MPPT 100/30 install to go along with the 412ahr Lithium batteries. Now I'm getting ready for the next phase which is the DC-DC. I remembered this video and had to go back and check it out. Good stuff. Hope all is well.

[@Stonyboot]

That sounds like a great setup!!! I’m dreaming of a Victron setup and it might be coming soon. Our DC-DC charging system is still working very well. I’ve been driving in 100f temps, running the ac in the camper while also running the DC-DC system to reduce battery drain. Working well Good luck with your build!

[@robbyota5598]

To disconnect power all you need is a Anderson connector and you can just unplug the battery cable. Also I believe you installed the connectors backwards for your trailer. I believe the plugs should be installed on the truck somewhere and then the cable should come out of your camper. what you did was make a suicide cord.

[@Stonyboot]

I disconnect the cable when needed. And the plug is installed backwards, that was a compromise that I needed to make.

[@duanebooher564]

Great video. I had same problem with my DC2DC breaker tripping in engine compartment, so I switched to ANL. I’m getting ready for my first road trip with the new DC2DC.

[@standingmannequin7911]

Thank you so much! I'm getting ready to install my wire harness to my truck so I really appreciate this shared knowledge and tool tips.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for the comment. My hope was to help someone figure out the best method on their first attempt. Now I have some extra breakers that I’m not sure if I trust!!

[@JohnCarrFitness]

Answered all my questions on the pros and cons of fuse vs breaker. Thanks for sharing

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for checking it out and leaving a comment!!!

[@americansafarico]

You’re awesome man. Thanks for tracking down that link for the socket wrench

[@ranig2848]

You should probably add a battery disconnect switch before the fuse block. There’s a lot of power going through those wires and they can cause a lot of damage or even fire (even with the fuses). You should really disconnect from battery before pulling those unprotected plugs. They’re just next to the truck bed and you can easily touch the truck bed (ground) when pulling them out or just resting them for a moment.

[@ranig2848]

BTW, great video! (Sorry I didn’t mention it in the original comment)

[@Stonyboot]

I completely agree, this project is a work in progress. I’ll be adding some kind of disconnect, it just wasn’t in the cards for this part of the build. Shipping delays make it hard to get what you need when you need it! I’ll probably do another video soon once I have it figured out.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

[@raystanton238]

If you can find a non conductive rubber-plastic cover for that male cable end, it could help.

[@ailo4x4]

I have the same marine circuit breaker under the bonnet of my Land Rover Defender that I use in the Sahara. It works great and I love it for the same reason you did; instant on-off switch. It makes it so easy to simply cut off all the power so you can do work. I've used the truck in extremely hard going with 120+ F temps and the breaker has never tripped due to heat. It might just be that big old lump of diesel engine you have under there ;-) Cheers from over here!

[@1vsme]

My wrangler jl v6 keeps tripping a 90a breaker, charging a 60a dc dc charger. Soooooo annoying

[@LCKxReCKLeSS]

You just introduced me to exactly what I needed

[@Stonyboot]

Awesome! Glad this was helpful!

[@carykern6079]

Excellent, just the ideas I needed. Thank you!

[@TheRoadTaken]

I contemplated hard conduit like you had used - glad to see it can be done. :)

[@jameskim62]

GREAT TIPS !!!! I will use your idea on my 2019 Serenity RV. Thank you very video on DC to DC for charging. I could use it on my RV/car/van on lead-acid and lithium battery

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching. The breakers are great in low temperature areas, but they just didn’t hold up to the heat. I also keep reading about reliability problems with them, sometimes they disconnect and don’t even show as tripped. For this setup, going with tried and true fuses means there is less to worry about. Good luck with your build, I’d love to hear how it goes.

[@design8366]

Very good information, thank you for sharing.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching 👍

[@gregchadwick8428]

I used Blue Sea terminal blocks to clean up my battery compartment in my truck camper which houses two 6V batteries in series. Was such a pain to take the batteries out to check the water so now with the terminal blocks I don't have to disconnect any of the multiple load cables, just one + and - cable on each battery. I agree they make excellent products. I like your system except for those 2 exposed male connectors. I wouldn't trust myself to remember to tape them up especially if I was in a hurry.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for sharing. They do make great stuff. I had to remember to turn the breakers off for the male plugs, I’ll just find a rubber cap for them. We only unload a few times a year, so it’s not a big deal.

[@srira7910]

@6:16 into the video, the scored nut supplied by blue sea, in our experience, will loosen over time from vibration. You don't want that. We suggest replacing them with a nut and separate copper lock washer. Seen too many of these on boats come loose. Blue Sea needs to up their game... Glad you went with MRBF's. Good protection with high AIC.

[@kev4241]

had my blue sea safety hub upside down, attached to a panel while I did some trims with a jigsaw. All the large nuts on the blue sea vibrated all the way off, falling off the bolt. the threads are a little too good

[@thetravelingmyfundsarelow1693]

Look into a wireless relay switch, fairly cheap to add to your dc to dc chargers. Then you can shut them off with a remote any time you want . They sell them with 2 -12v relay on 1 remote. Anyway good vid I learned some stuff about terminal fuses I didn’t know. Safe travels, bob and Deb

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for watching. I have my chargers hooked up to the upfitter switches in the truck. I can turn them on and off using those switches. But, I’ve never heard of wireless relays, I’ll have to take a look. Thanks for the tip!

[@danduda8417]

Just wondering about the shelf you put above your battery. How is that mounted in It's a great idea for mounting terminal and grounding blocks! Love it!

[@kev4241]

good info. I should have realized the breakers are difficult in the engine bay. There is a specification curve showing the trip current changes a lot with temperature. Guess I'll try moving the breaker towards the front grille. Or change to fuses as shown

[@stevehericks5764]

Scott, Some engineering comments: 1) fuse selection - When fuse protecting a circuit the capacity of the fuse should be 133% (4/3rds) of the max circuit amperage. Said another way, the circuit should not exceed 75% (3/4) of the fuse capacity. The reason is, the fuse activates by melting just above its rating. It has an exponential temperature relationship with current. If you run the circuit near the activation point, the fuse will run VERY HOT. The heat generated will follow the most direct thermally conductive path, which is down the highly thermally conductive copper wire. Wire insulation other than silicone or braided fiberglas cannot tolerate the level of heat the fuse can create (even 105C rated welding cable) and will decompose and possibly outright char. 2) Fuse capacity (in amps) and wire capacity (in amps) are related but not the same. Wire is rated for the full circuit capacity. A fuse rated at a higher capacity than the wire will still protect it. For the fuse to function, the wire will exceed its design capacity but the fuse will function before the wire fails or for that matter, before it is damaged but not before the designed voltage drop limit is exceeded. 3) Proper wire for an engine bay: Most common primary wire is classified as General Purpose, Thermoplastic or GPT. It has PVC insulation rated for rated up to 185F. This is not adequate for engine compartments. They require a higher temperature rated insulation that is 'crosslinked' called GXL (General, cross Linked) with a temperature rating of 257F. They look and feel almost the same. 'Battery cable' is acceptable as is 'welding cable' but not GPT or anything that is commonly found in residential or commercial building. 4) You already realize that you have used your plug/socket connector 'backwards'. The design imperative is that ONLY sockets provide energy so the contacts can be protected when energized. Plugs ONLY receive energy so that the exposed contacts will never be energized when uncoupled. While your awareness of this situation is obvious and hopefully adequate for your safety, the exposed contacts on the plug should have some method of being de-energized before and any time they are uncoupled for both your safety and that of your equipment. I suggest installing a battery cutoff switch on your main distribution cable before your fuse block.

[@Stonyboot]

Steve, Thank you so much for the detailed information. I apologize for the delay in responding, but I wanted to make sure I had enough time to respond fully. 1) I had read somewhere that 80% was the goal, but never understood the heat transfer issue. Your explanation is awesome! I have tested everything that you mentioned in your comments and it all looks good. However, I understand now that I can use a fuse of a higher rating than the wire/plugs because they are fast acting where the wire/plugs would take a while to heat/melt. I did lookup the different types of wire and can see what you are talking about. With the new I have many hours with the new fuses without any heat issues, however, I'll probably order the next size up now that I understand the metrics on how to chose them. I assumed a 70amp plug should use a 70 amp fuse, live and learn. 2) Perfect explanation, simple and easy to understand. Thanks. 3) I did lookup the insulation on the main battery cable I used and it is PVC with a 185F rating. We had some crazy 100F days here in NH, I was running the truck, A/C and charging system. That area was around 175-195F (as read with a infrared thermometer) and I could tell the insulation was pretty soft. The welding cable seemed to be cooler and still very firm. I don't have anything residential in there that I'm aware of, did I miss something? 4) I 100% understand this flaw. I spent months looking for a 3 prong solution for this setup and this was the best I could come up with reversing the plug/socket was a trade off I was ok with since its plugged in 98% of the time and I had the breakers to disconnect them. I will be adding a disconnect, but probably downstream of the engine bay. Thank you for all of the information. Would it be ok to cover these details in a future video, this is gold and I don't think too many people will read it. I'd like to highlight your corrections when I make the changes. --scott

[@stevehericks5764]

@@Stonyboot 1) Fuses are made of aluminum alloyed with (can't remember), specifically to create an exponential 'thermal runaway'. Copper wire has a 'linear' relationship with current/temperature so although an overloaded wire gets hotter, it doesn't get as hot as fast as a fuse does. Most automotive fuses are 'slow blow'. There is a specific type of 'fast acting' fuse for electronics application that blows at less than 110% to protect electronics but that is typically not desirable in circuits that can experience starting surges as part of normal operation. 3) Your use of GPT in the sizes and amperages with underhood temperatures of a diesel is asking for trouble (eventually). Its not that the insulation melts off. That would only happen with the additional heat of a fuse running lear the limit. The failure mode is; The stiff wire (esp with big cable) bears against surfaces with some pressure (curving through and around) and the pressure on the wire causes the soft plastic to slowly flow away from the point of pressure, leaving only thin or possibly no insulation. It usually just thins and then vibration causes the thin part to wear through. Things like nylon cable ties bundling cable tightly can sink well into it too. Bundled wire presses insulation closely together and will actually fuse them together like a box of crayons in the sun. The biggest problem is the cable running over a square metal edge which produces high point pressure, causing the very warm plastic to just move away till the wire meets the metal. This type of failure can occur in weeks or months, while others may take years (depends on how often it endures sustained, high underhood temps). Hopefully, you get the idea.

[@immrnoidall]

Thanks for your valuable insight. It only takes ONE bad wire to ruin everything or worse. I think his "plug" isn't actually backwards but worse, he can have power on both plug and socket . Something needs to be configured differently there. I'm not sure what kind of answer for that but he does need to put a switch of some sort, back in place near and visible by the plug .

[@WizzRacing]

You over rate it by 125% As NEC code book allows.. As you have inductive loads with high inrush start up amps..Like AC Units, Drills, etc...This is why ANL fuses are useful as they are slow blow...They will allow a high load for a short time. I still don't like ANL fuses. It's not like you have them things laying around. Best to use a thermal breaker. You can just reset it once it cools off. If you have continuous loads of 4hrs or more. You have to follow the 80% rule for wire sizing. Not Fused\Breaker sizing..

[@dondeyo7908]

Wrapping black electrical tape over those connectors that plug into the camper can be an issue. Even the good 3M black tape makes black sticky slime on those male pins ( brake cleaner to remove slime ). Any other other color doesn't seem to do that. I like to use the 3M temflex 35 grey or white electrical tape during builds or wrapping up temporary connections. I know everybody's a critic these days, just thought that might help you avoid issues in the future. I like to use Industry Standard ANL fuses. If one blows they are easier to find and Amazon has tons of holders and fuses to choose from. Blue sea stuff is pretty awesome, wow is it spendy.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for the advice! I appreciate your input. I'll definitely keep that in mind and consider using 3M temflex 35 grey or white electrical tape for my builds and temporary connections. Also, using Industry Standard ANL fuses sounds like a good idea for easier replacement options. Thanks again for sharing your insights!

[@stevekelly1288]

I have tried to find a general layout and diagram of your electrical setup. I have Arctic Fox 1140 and using 2 AGM batteries. I want to add a DC to DC charger and an inverter. I am thinking a Renogy 2000W PSW inverter and a Renogy 60A DC to DC charger. Recommendations? DO you have a diagram of your system? I have dual alternators on my 2017 F350 Dually. Not sure of their rating.

[@Stonyboot]

I don't have a diagram and would suggest looking at Explorist.life since that's kind of his speciality. There are a lot of variables with these systems and it takes a lot of reading and figuring to get it dialed in. You can always email me at [e-mail] if you want to discuss more.

[@stevehericks5764]

I forgot. Amp rating for alternators is their one time peak at 6,000 alternator (not engine) RPM. The continuous duty capacity of an alternator is less than half its peak capacity and is even lower when air and under hood temperatures rise. The design capacity of your stock alternator is meant to provide for the vehicle and little else. Hopefully you have increased your alternator capacity to accommodate your chargers. I run a primary 12V/135A alternator for vehicle systems and a secondary 24V/220A alternator for my camper (with 1166Ah of Leaf LMO). Alternators have NO PROTECTION FROM OVERLOADING. I have current, voltage and temperature monitoring on both alternators and an adjustable regulator on the latter to trim my charging amperage to keep it under 250F. Depending on air temperature and how hilly the driving, I can usually only get between 60-110A charging (from a 220A rated alternator) at about 240F. While I'm doing this, my 12V alternator runs from ~30-60A at 170-190F. I would highly recommend you put some kind of temperature monitor on your alternator at a minimum (~$20).

[@Stonyboot]

Steve, Again, great comment, thank you! This is something that I tested throughly! The truck has dual 220 alternators as part of a plow prep package. They are a 3.22:1 ratio since it's diesel, so while driving or using the high idle at 1k RPM, it gives me plenty of amperage and cooling (I never idle except for testing). Pulling 100-110 amps, spread evenly across both alternators hasn't been an issue, and I keep a close eye on the temps. Even on 100f days with constant charging, even while high idling for 10-15 minutes, the alternators stay between 190-215. The passenger side alternator runs about 10f hotter due to less air flow and its proximity to the EGR and exhaust/turbo. I sized things to stay within the safe range with the alternators. A remote temperature monitor would be great, do you have any suggestions? I check everything with an infrared thermometer, especially after long hills and on hot days, It has never been hot enough to be of concern. Excellent information and something I'd like to include in a future video if you're ok with it. Thanks again!

[@stevehericks5764]

@@Stonyboot Sounds like you do have a good handle on the generation side. You have to be careful with some of those IR thermometers when measuring something with high airflow, that is not flat or black. They can be off more than a bit (or more ---voice of experience). I use a super cheap thermostat (

[@stevehericks5764]

@@Stonyboot This is the form factor I have. They are small enough to put anywhere but are intended to be in a panel. This unit has 2 thermometers in the same houshing with each a different color. Might be just right for your two alternators. www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Waterproof-Temperature-Fahrenheit-Refrigerator/dp/B07WS11X45/ref=sr_1_25?dchild=1&keywords=thermometer+12v&qid=1625374148&sr=8-25 These sensors are 3890 NTC 10k Thermistors. Don't use the 'bead type' a comes with this dual display. Also, avoid those that use thermocouples as they cannot readily be extended even though the higher temperature range seems appealing. www.amazon.com/DROK-Temperature-Sensitive-Stainless-Thermistor/dp/B01MZ6Y336/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=NTC+sensor+3m&qid=1625374472&sr=8-3 3M is the longest standard length commonly available but they can easily be extended with any small (22-24) gauge twin wire (solder and heat shrink connections). Mounting can be done by crimping the sensor in an appropriately sized copper cable lug. Be very careful not to crush the sensor, just crimp enough to grip it. Attaching it to the case near the stator housing is best and will require drilling and tapping a hole to do it. If you want something simpler, there is usually a tapped hole for a ground cable on the back of the backside of the case.

[@stevehericks5764]

@@Stonyboot I forgot to mention, alternators use small diameter, internal centrifugal fans (with an exponential speed vs flow relationship) that cool very little at less than about 4500RPM, (~12-1400 engine RPM is typically the low end of operating speed so it is logical for automotive designers to target that speed). The air channels through the alternator are so small, it requires a lot of static pressure to move air and the centrifugal fan needs a lot of speed to do that. You are far more likely to overheat at high idle than anywhere else because the alternator is spinning fast enough to generate but not enough to cool properly. Because I have been having solar charge controller problems, I just had to do some fast idle charging (a week ago) and discovered my 220A alternator would only operate at about 60A continuous duty at 1200 engine RPM, in cool (60F) morning air (with the hood open). On the road on a warm day, with the heat of the engine compartment, it will do 100A. That is the difference in cooling air circulation.

[@wideawaketotruth5301]

Well said!

[@Lapeerphoto]

Sometimes, (like this!) Ya just gotta work HOT. If you have a short piece of tube, it gives a little better protection than electrical tape. When I use the tube, I also use tape to secure it from slipping of. Also, a piece of innertube is handy for covering over terminals in close quarters.

[@Stonyboot]

Excellent idea!!! Electrical tape is easy to cut and damage. A tube would be perfect. I have some various materials kicking around, I’ll see what I can come up with for the next video. I can’t justify spending the money on composite tools, I just pay attention to where my metal parts are.

[@stevehericks5764]

@@Stonyboot The best material for adding protection to wiring in an engine bay is either 'split loom tubing' (search for that term on Amazon). The automotive industry uses it widely and it is readily available in a wide variety of sizes. A big-sized, short piece is effective for terminal blocks. It has an inherent capacity to remain around the cable where using tape in a hot engine bay will not last reliably. The other material you should look for is called 'spiral wrap'. It is a flat, thick PE band (like super thick, stiff electrical tape) that is non-adhesive, helical, and stays that way. You wrap it around the wires and it provides a really good mechanical barrier with high-temperature resistance. Search 'Spiral wrap for wire' on Amazon.

[@Scrambler85]

Check the temperature of your alternator when charging at idle. When I installed a 60 amp dc to dc charger it was running about 248-255 deg. F. at idle. And about 180-200 F with just the headlights and AC running.

[@Stonyboot]

I covered that in the first video. Even at idle, they stay around 200-205f. They are each only serving up about 50 amps, which is less than 25% of their capacity. In my research, it seems that they only have trouble when you are pulling closer to 50% with a constant duty cycle. So far, no issues and they run nice and cool (well 200f isn’t very cool 😎)

[@WorkingOnExploring]

I have put together a thermal switch to mount on the alternator case to shut off the charger at 120C/224F and switch it back on again at 100C/212F. I will be putting a video out on it shortly. See my website by the same name as my KZbin. On the 'TechDocs' page is a summary of the thermal safety.

[@terrylarkin690]

I Retired from my Mac Tools in 2015 you would be great at tool sales.

[@Stonyboot]

I love tools, but only have a few left. Do you have a nice collection from your Mac Tool days?

[@collettsonthemove7497]

Great info! Electrical stuff really intimidates me. You make it seem not so scary! ~carol

[@Stonyboot]

That’s nice to hear. 12v systems are pretty simple and easy to work on. There are so many resources on KZbin and Facebook that you can learn nearly anything. Do you have any particular electrical projects that you want to tackle?

[@collettsonthemove7497]

@@Stonyboot we are full tome in our small travel trailer, but this fall will be downsizing to a truck cap with a hard shell roof top tent. I want to put a 100 watt solar panel on the RTT and I want to be able to charge while we’re driving. We’ll likely go with a 200 ah lithium battery-not 100% sure yet. Maybe just buy one of the new 2000 watt Jackery power stations. We don’t need a lot of power-mostly to recharge things. We’re Boondocking right now and running Daniel’s cpap from our Jackery 500. We have Jackery solar panels to recharge it.

[@Stonyboot]

It sounds like you’ve got a good system. Those battery packs sure to make life easy!

[@terrylarkin690]

That's funny Prefabulated Emulite kinda like checking the spark on your diesel plugs. Mine work most of the time. Don't forget to Modulate the Calibrater.

[@Stonyboot]

Haha, I like your “modulate the calibrater”. Thanks for the laugh!

[@heligeorge]

Thank You. I have the same one and was wondering if I should cut the tabs so as for the wires to “ fit in “.

[@Stonyboot]

As long as your not cutting the conductor, it’s probably fine. Sometimes you just gotta find a way to make it work.

[@Steveski70]

Do you have a secondary alternator? Can you post hand sketched schematic with cable sizes of your system. Great educational video ! Thx for sharing

[@Stonyboot]

I did a full video about the setup. It’s called charging without solar. That goes through the whole setup and mentioned the gauges of wire and other connections. I don’t have a schematic, but if that first video doesn’t give you the info you need, I’d be happy to make a diagram. I should probably diagram my system anyway.

[@timothylinn]

This is such helpful information. Thank you. I'm curious if, since the time you originally installed your DC-DC chargers, you've found a better connector than the one you used with your Cirrus 920.

[@brentmcmahon8188]

I put switches on mine because to let altanator warm and to let charge up start battery first and the I flip my charger on and I have a lited so I won’t for get to turn it off switch and has worked flawless .

[@DanBurgaud]

MRBF! nice! i need one!

[@Stonyboot]

They have been awesome. Wish I did that the first time round, but then I wouldn’t have learned the valuable lesson.

[@LTVoyager]

That is why the hot side of a connector should always be the side with sockets. The load should be on the side with pins.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for the tip!

[@danielgjb]

Forgot to mention you could add a manual battery disconnect switch between your fuse block and battery under the hood for safety to disconnect all power to your terminal fuse block.

[@Stonyboot]

I'll be doing something like that, as soon as I find the right switch!

[@peterj5751]

It’s interesting that you are having this problem because I’ve run 40 and 50 amp fuses in the engine bay of my turbo diesel Landcruiser for 3 years in Australia and never had one trip. I have been warned of the risk of them tripping but it’s never happened to me. It probably will now that I’ve cursed myself.

[@maxyourjourney]

Looks good 👍

[@Stonyboot]

Thank you! :)

[@Chayim55]

Did you check the Amp with a clamp meter that is flowing through that line? The circuit breaker might be inadequate for the load and needs a higher Amp breaker. Guess work means $$$$.

[@Stonyboot]

Yes, everything is checked with a clamp meter. I could have gone larger on the fuses, but they were backordered. Hundreds of hours of runtime later, it's still going strong. I've also checked the fuse temperatures many, many times and they are not warmer than the surrounding surfaces.

[@stuh2]

I have the same problem, but I'm gonna order a "Buss" company breaker. Yes they're more expensive but I think the quality will hold up and I should be able to pump the 50 amps That I want through the 80 breaker. I just prefer breakers for the ability to turn it off and on like a switch. Also, I bought one of those cheap amp meters (400 amp) And put the sensor on the cable directly from the alternator , and then mounted the display in the truck . This way I can see exactly how many amps the alternator Is putting out. I only have one alternator and it's a 150 amps. Most of the time, on a normal drive, it's putting out maybe 30 amps. I just want to make sure I don't overtax the alternator.

[@corydriver7634]

You should be able to find some rubber caps for those threaded studs (they use them on playground equipment) in the hardware department at Lowe’s or HD then you won’t need to worry about making accidental contact with your wrench.

[@Stonyboot]

Agreed, another commenter had some good ideas that I’ll investigate too. Ideally, I want a shut off.

[@sjf67gto]

What size cable are you using to run back to the camper?

[@Stonyboot]

4 gauge.

[@research903]

You could have some 3D print a protective for your camper power plug for use when the camper is dismounted.

[@timharris3203]

You could put on some heat shrink on your ratchet handle if your still worried about arcing it

[@brentmcmahon8188]

I got one from Northern Tool but mine is about twice as big but watch out for rubber covering on the Handel it can off and can go flying, just ask me how I know .

[@EastofSomewhere]

Thumbs up because Leatherman

[@wingnutbert9685]

Maybe a short bit of elect. conduit and a pipe cap that's slightly smaller then your plug end for a safety cap. Heat the conduit so it's soft and push it over the plug and let cool so it's a snug fit. Maybe you could flow in some CA glue into those female plug sockets to keep them from coming out.

[@Stonyboot]

That's a good idea! I think I'm just going to install a switch, it's the most logical thing to do. I'm just going to do it somewhere besides the engine bay. I've thought about using glue for the sockets, but they are like that to aid in assembly and disassembly. It really isn't a problem, I just push them back in when needed. If I used them on a regular basis, that would be a different story, but the camper stays on for months at a time. Thanks for the thoughts!

[@trevorchichester8550]

Can someone explain the correlation between heat and amperage? Specifically, why does increase in heat cause breakers or fuses to trip? I understand that increase in heat is an increase in resistance... But what does that have to do with amperage? For example, a 200a fuse doesn't trip when cold, but then you add heat to the circuit and then it does? Why?

[@SuperClown1979]

You could 3d print a female adaptor cover or dummy... to protect the live wires of the camper.

[@Stonyboot]

That’s a good idea. I know a guy that can do that. But I have a new system coming.

[@wideawaketotruth5301]

Only thought I had, is if you would have increased the length of the cables from the generator battery under the hood to where you could move the breakers outside from under the hood. Why didn't you consider that an option?

[@grant209]

I'd add Simple On/Off Isolation Switch be between your battery and your Fuse Block. That way when you take your camper off, there is no power still going through your cables . . . like with your 70amp circuit breaker you said you turned it off when taking the cables out of your camper for extra safety .

[@Stonyboot]

I just disconnect the cable. The camper is rarely off, but in the last 6 months, we’ve had it off for extended periods because of fuel costs. So disconnecting the cable completely solved the issues.

[@grant209]

@@Stonyboot Yep . . . give the day of the week, it's anywhere from $1.90 - $2.20 per litter for Diesel have . . . has put the brakes on weekend 4WDing get a ways a bit.

[@terrylarkin690]

I'll make a suggestion use pop rivets on the Asdale. They work great for that type of application.

[@Stonyboot]

That’s an excellent idea, my only question would be how to remove them in the future? I assume just cut them and put new ones in? I have to service those plugs from time to time.

[@stevehericks5764]

There are only two types of 'blind rivets' that you should use with non-metallic materials. Riveting soft materials with a typical 'swelling' rivet may appear successful but it is not. An 'exploding' rivet works by the mandrel splitting the rivet body into 4 strips and rolling them up, removing the hoop stress from the hole. The other is a 'tri-fold' that works just like a moly-bolt wall anchor. Neither are waterproof and for that reason, are inadvisable to be use on an exterior wall. (I am a former Safari Motor Coach manufacturing engineer where we built class A's with aluminum riveted skins on aluminum tube frames). One possible exception to the above is to used a 'sealed' rivet (again, there are 2 types and neither are common) with a washer on the back side. This works well but obviously removes the 'blind' nature of the rivet.

[@stevehericks5764]

Scott, Rivets are very easily removed by using the same drill bit as the original hole required (important to use the same size so as not to enlarge the hole for the replacement) and drilling just enough to remove the head, then pushing the body inside, where it remains.

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks!

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks for all the information. Since I have access to both sides and wanted to be able to remove it easily, a stainless machine screw and nylock nut worked well. However, there are some sheet metal projects that I’d like to do in the future and rivets would be excellent!

[@alaska-bornfloridaman]

Do you use the + from one starter battery, and the - from the other for this? Or both from one..

[@Stonyboot]

Both from the drivers side. I did some testing to determine if I needed to split them up. The cables that come with the truck and join both alternators and batteries is pretty thick. When I measured the amperage draw and voltage on both sides of the truck they were equal, even though I was connected to one side. There might be a 1% differential, but not enough to worry about.

[@midnightrider3318]

I had the same problem with (this type of) breakers annoyingly popping. The breakers are bi-metal switch devices and not really accurate rated amp tripping circuit breaker devices. No matter where this type of breakers are located (engine compartment or elsewhere), they pop well below their rated current. There were three breakers in my system and all opened during max load (below breaker rating). Replaced with inline fuses. Agree the ability to disconnect power via the breaker is convenient but it has to work. Sadly these breakers did not work.

[@Stonyboot]

Similar issues here. But I’ve also had them melt instead of pop. Household AC breakers are great, DC breakers seem problematic.

[@Volsman5150]

WOW!! No video of Sasha coming home? Come On Man!! Show your Wife some Love Bro!! I think you like being on camera too much…LOL

[@Stonyboot]

She came home in the last episode of Wifeless Wanderings. Sasha has a 3 part series of her time in Russia. So take your pick. 3 episodes of me, 3 episodes of Sasha.

[@andufuse640]

good

[@Stonyboot]

Thanks!

[@anthonymarino4260]

well done

[@anthonymarino4260]

blue sea the best

[@brentmcmahon8188]

I think it would have been putting a small computer fan on them first before I changed it all out. Just a thought may work may not . Would be worth a try .

[@danielgjb]

I have never had any luck with the manual reset dc circuit breakers for what they are rated. Tried different brands they are all junk. The only accurate ones are the automatic reset breakers, but have only found then rated up to 50 amps.

[@Stonyboot]

I agree, I had high hopes, but they just don't last.

[@nikolatesla5553]

Did you buy extra fuses?

[@Stonyboot]

As Sasha and I sit here and reply to comments, we couldn’t help smile at how cool your name is!!!! I did indeed get extra fuses!

[@nikolatesla5553]

@@Stonyboot Thanks! Those fuses are expensive. But it's unlikely you'll need to replace them often if at all.

[@WizzRacing]

You need to reverse them plugs to the proper types...As you might know it. But someone else might not and they grab them ends.

[@Stonyboot]

I disconnect them when not in use. I agree, but it was the best I could come up with without a custom design.

[@WizzRacing]

@@Stonyboot I get why you did it. As 100amp Shore Power Plugs are $400.00+ Each. Which is $800.00 per connection Male\Female... I would still come up with a Custom design. Just to reverse them..It may not look pretty. But it bets being dead. As I been hit by a setup like that when I was an Electrician. It damn near killed me..

[@Stonyboot]

Educate me. I was pretty sure 12v isn’t going to really hurt me. High amperage and will arc but I’ve touched plenty of 12v connections without as much as a tingle. What am I missing.

[@WizzRacing]

@@Stonyboot It's not just the voltage that will kill you. It's the amount of Current Flowing through the Circuit..You happen to get between it and grounded.. It will make your day. As they still teach it as Electrical Theory 400 years later for a reason. Why a Taser only uses 9 volt battery. But produces 100k volts. But only using 2ma of current. You ramp that current up to 30ma...that taser is now a deadly weapon. Why GFCI are rated at 25ma trip curve K... Why the NFPA 70 is full of rules. They learned by someone else getting killed. So maybe mount a Disconnect between the Trailer and the truck. That way you can isolate the connection when detaching it. That or buy the proper Shore power Connections. As I just looked up Hubble Shore Power Plugs rated for 100amps. I was right. $890.00 for a pair Male\Female...As they are not cheap...

[@Stonyboot]

When I disconnect it, I remove the power from the truck. I never have it powered while unplugged. Luckily, that entire setup will be gone soon :) Thanks for the feedback!

[@djexotic07]

are these great for solar on a battery bank to the inverter

[@Stonyboot]

Absolutely! The more I read about breakers, the less I want to use them.

[@djexotic07]

@@Stonyboot i wanna used these for my battery bank before it go to my inverter. i am going to used a breaker for my solar panels from midnight solar to protect my mppt for over current. i just had a hard time trying to find the right fuse or breaker set up for battery bank setup since i am useding lithium then acid lead.

[@Stonyboot]

I use these on my battery bank. I love them.

[@wocookie2277]

Breakers with a heat sink mounted high on the firewall with a 12 volt pc fan?

[@Stonyboot]

Or.... fuses..

[@-PORK-CHOP-]

Those circuit breakers are notoriously unreliable, in Australia we have a lot of corrugated dirt roads that punish anything on the car, those circuit breakers don't last on these types of roads, either MRBF as you found out or Megafuses are the go 👍👍

[@minam9120]

What size your new tire and rim?

[@Stonyboot]

235/80R17 which is the factory size.

[@andufuse]

We are also selling this product, which is great.

[@billcoleman7316]

What would be nice is a battery disconnect switch so the end of your cable would not be live.

[@ogaddcb]

I agree with you 100% on Blue seas products. I’ve been using www.bluesea.com/products/9001e/e-Series_Selector_Battery_Switch for years on my Casita and now my Nash 17K and it has worked lawlessly. I had two of them one for truck to trailer so I can turn OFF the DC/DC charger and the second on my battery banks between bank A and B

[@Stonyboot]

I’ve become a fan, there are usually cheaper alternatives, but I’d rather buy something that will last. Blue Sea has a great reputation. I’ve tried some cheaper battery switches and have not been impressed. I’ll have to take a look at the ones you shared for a future project. Thanks for sharing?

[@JamesCummings-i3x]

Seems like plug ends should be reversed so when plugging in power side would be female plugs on camper male , unless when one side is plugged into camper is other plug now also live

[@ttass4394]

I imagine you've heard this before but those 2 plugs on your camper body are incorrect, not code and very dangerous. The way you have wired them, with live pins exposed at the plug is called a "dead man's plug", for the reason you actually stated. Go in Home Depot and buy the correct male and female plug components (exactly opposite of the ones you have now) and swap them out before you, your partner and some random child pulls that plug and dies.

[@GRiznitDShiznit]

People forget about human error. Just because there’s an off switch doesn’t mean you’ll remember to use it and you wont forget there’s still power at the live exposed plugs.

[@dunderclumpin]

Ive had a breaker under my hood for 3 years, never once has it tripped. Maybe you need to buy better quality breakers.

[@konakcc]

One Victron Lynx Distributor replaced all that rats nest.

[@Sharpened_Spoon]

Thermal breakers trip in heat.... really?

[@Stonyboot]

Who’da thunk it!

[@mikewilson8594]

Run back into the store and buy the largest fire extinguisher that they carry.

[@garylanders1470]

I can't understand why you wouldn't have Male prong plug receptacles mounted to your camper instead of the Female? 🤯 Talk about being "bassackwards" !

[@mikewilson8594]

Master NIASE Auto tech for 40 years. No. No. No. And just no. And no.

[@1vsme]

Why?