DC drive controller suitable for a treadmill motor conversion to a lathe or mill

Here's a close up look and overview of connecting and using a DC drive controller for a lathe or mill motor conversion to variable speed (VSD).
The controllers are KB Electronics KBIC-240 models.
The model data sheets can be viewed here:
www.kbelectroni...

[@Loopyengineeringco]

Great, thank you for the video. Just purchased a KBIC-240 and a 180v 1hp motor for a DIY spindle. Fingers crossed!

[@Xynudu]

The controller can handle the amperage OK. You would have to adjust the DC output trim pot to 130 Volts maximum. You connect the same way as explained in the video. The only question would be a suitable HP resistor for the unit. You would have to contact KB Electronics or Baldor to determine the correct OHMs in relation to the motor HP. Rob

[@Xynudu]

Hi Keith. Yes this model will do what you want. I suggest you visit the KB Electronics web site and view the data sheets. I have include the data sheet link in the video description. The AC to DC inverters are available with 110 and/or 240 AC input to DC output.

[@Xynudu]

Further to the last answer, the output DC would be set to no more than 130V DC, and should be less than 70% of the rating to prevent motor overheating. Rob

[@NathanNostaw]

Thanks for the tutorial, good sound info.

[@farhozz]

hello sir, my KBWM-240 only outputs 50vdc, what component is damaged?

[@Xynudu]

Hi Fajar. It could be a number of possibilities. A bad main ballast resistor, output voltage potentiometer, or blade rectifier could cause it. A fault with any other component on the board will also have an effect. Quite often these units get damaged by voltage spikes, so a clean power supply is essential. Look for any obvious burn marks on the board and it's components as a clue to what failed and where the problem lies. Cheers Rob

[@farhozz]

@@Xynudu thank sir, i will check it

[@Xynudu]

The user manual for this unit can be read online. It shows the correct settings : www.manualsdir.com/manuals/350815/kb-electronics-kbwm-240-kbwm-120.html?page=5

[@one4stevo]

Hey Rob great video i would like to building a belt grinder out of a 2hp treadmill motor i have, with this controller i was thinking of building a sealed alloy box to put it in so no junk gets in, is that possible or does the controller need air to cool itself

[@Xynudu]

Provided you use the case as a heat sink it should be quite OK. These inverters don't actually get very hot, even though they specify an additional heat sink for high load applications. I still have a couple of these inverters and a largish treadmill motor laying about that I should put to good use one day. No real need at the moment but always handy for linishers etc. Using them on a lathe is not really all that successful as the DC motor cooling is insufficient under low speed/ high load operation that an AC motor would tolerate quite happily.. Cheers Rob

[@djpaulk]

Hey Rob, whats the go with the HP ratings on these treadmill motors and what is yours?and what HP resistor do you have in it? I have 2 x 180vdc brushed, both physically the same size and one says 1.5hp 4amp and the other says 3hp 6.5 amp.. Somehow this doesn't sound right.. Im upgrading the motor on my 7x12" mini lathe and was scared off the kbic controls cause of these motors HP ratings and the need for a plug in resistor of correct value. Would have been nice and easy and cheaper to put a new controller board in the old control housing on the lathe. Any ways, I bit the bullet and bought a kbpc-225d with its own, larger control box, no need for the resistor @ 1/4-3HP out of the box. Im also changing to xl series timing pulleys and changing the ratio.. Nothing is going to stall my mini lathe now ! Well except for maybe a crowbar :D It seems had I seen this video beforehand, I could have got away with a kbic and saved a few clams and a little work. Finally, how do you find the KB electronics stuff? Paul

[@Xynudu]

Hi Paul. I've played around with various motors on the basic KBIC boards and only ever had one problem, with a salvage 2 HP motor that wouldn't fire up - the motor looked OK, but may have been a dud. If you match the HP to the resistor listing it should/has always worked for me. The DC treadmill motors come in many sizes and ratings. Currently I have a heavy duty 1.5 HP motor (Japanese) I want to fit and it is a longer casing than the previous 1.5 HP I had on and cooked. The HD motor has an epoxy coated armature. The motors tend to be a similar diameter, but bigger HP generally means more magnets and a longer armature. The biggest issue is keeping things cool at low RPM. As it drops, so does the fan speed, and so does the cooling. Things get very hot, very quickly. Still looking into a solution for that before I fit the new motor. Cheers Rob

[@djpaulk]

xynudu . Well Rob, let me know how you go with the cooling, it seems to be an issue. I have noticed these motors are generally externally cooled, and have their fans attached to the flywheel or on their shaft.. So yeah, I have been pondering cooling solution that will work with our application and the low speeds (low cooling) and the current draw (heat) associated with say parting or large diameter hogging cuts. Have to also consider reversing spindle direction and its effects on an improved cooling setups airflow direction.. Food for thought. Thought of a pc fan, but dunno... Id like something better

[@Xynudu]

I had dual large PC case fans driving in tandem on my previous motor and it worked sorta OK, but after 12 months the magic smoke came out the motor :( Low revs was the problem at the time. Then I bought that $20 blower fan in another video I have, which I now use for metal casting. It was plenty good enough for the DC motor, but too damn noisy. So I'm thinking maybe 12v DC car dash blower unit, or old style hair dryer unit. Bilge blowers are no good as they are only for intermittent use. It has to be cheap and good :) Lucky I'm not in a hurry. Cheers Rob

[@mrbreezeet1]

Are you saying I need to turn off the power to the AC hot line before switching direction, or just let the motor come to a stop. I will be using a DPDT switch in my motor wires to reverse direction.

[@Xynudu]

anthony diodati Let the motor come to a stop is OK. Just so long as the armature is not generating any DC (backwash) when you make the direction change. You also can turn off the power before switch change. Either way, the armature must be stationary at the change point. Rob

[@mrbreezeet1]

xynudu OK, I see, Thanks

[@china2092]

hi! excuse me can you tell me what is the red component the onse tha is in front of the blue one in the first circuit, and what is its capacity please?

[@Xynudu]

Leslie García You need to be more specific. What sort of component are you talking about?

[@elrandyt]

Hi mate. I'm in need of one of these controllers to power a treadmill motor to make a pitching machine for a local baseball team. (Non profit) Can you point me in the right direction of where to buy one from for the price you mentioned on the video as the ones I've seen cost close to $300 and that's not in my budget. I live in Brisbane. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers. Randy

[@Xynudu]

elrandyt Which specific unit are you after ? Rob

[@Xynudu]

xynudu Ebay is the only place to look for secondhand, as these units are expensive new. I have a spare 180v unit that will do up to 2 HP that I could do, but anything for a larger HP will be Ebay only and harder to come by. Rob

[@ShowersNeiked]

How would I go about connecting this to a 130vDC 18amp motor?

[@elrandyt]

My motor is 2.5 hp 180V at 4700rpm but i dont need to rev it that much. Would your spare one work for it? What's your price?

[@Xynudu]

elrandyt It's unlikely to work. I put a larger motor on one once (the rating was incorrectly stated), and it refused to run. You need the correct rated controller for the HP rating. So it's a case of waiting for the correct unit to come up on Ebay (KBIC-225), or get a smaller motor suitable for a more readily available controller. Generally Ebay controllers come in from the USA or Singapore/Vietnam regions. The ones I have were shipped ex USA. Rob

[@dantheman1998]

Any Idea on how to make these work with a PWM signal to change speed?

[@Xynudu]

+dantheman1998 PWM is for AC. These boards are for DC motors. DC current does not have modulation. You can get PWM for AC from simple to expensive, but cogging and lack of torque will be issues. Rob.

[@Xynudu]

+dantheman1998 If you mean to replace the speed change potentiometer with a PWM signal, I have no idea if that is possible. I don't see any point in even attempting such a thing. Rob

[@dantheman1998]

+xynudu Yeah that's what I mean. I have a mach 3 lpt breakout board and it only outputs pwm to control spindle. So looking for solution to this

[@robertklara6375]

My controller board JYMC-220B-1 Deyd yesterday. Aim looking for an alternative....

[@Xynudu]

Hi Robert, I have read that these are a clone of the KBIC board. The specifications look similar. The KBIC board is readily available secondhand off Ebay. So long as the connection points are the same layout you should be OK. Cheers Rob

[@tradersalt]

would the KBWT be better ? It is PWM.

[@Xynudu]

Yes, that's a far better controller, more modern design, but more expensive. Rob

[@akkisingh2736]

how to buy this pcb board, please give me a link. help me

[@Xynudu]

Look on Ebay for it.

[@akkisingh2736]

thanks

[@akkisingh2736]

i want to buy same board, which is visible in your video, can you give me a link please

[@Xynudu]

Search Ebay for KBIC-240. I just had a look and there are plenty there. They will nearly all be ex USA and the postage is expensive.

[@akkisingh2736]

thank u sir

[@johnzarollin2749]

I really see no difference between the KB 212D controller and its variations to the standard controllers that come with the DC treadmill motors. My only interest in the KB controllers was whether or not they can stop the motor quickly. you never addressed that as far as I can tell. The waving pen/pencil is a real distraction trying to focus on what components you're talking about, a little slower and to the point would be a great help. No criticizing just giving feedback.

[@grahamhall2662]

It's EMF not EMC