How Do You Make a Model Look Faded? - Painting & Weathering: Rust Bucket Boxcar Part 1

[@RFMCabooseNP1713]

Nice work.

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!

[@The_SP_Modeler]

Looking great Dan! Cool to see you trying some new techniques, we modelers always have something new to try and it helps the most learning from each other!

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you like it so far. I hope you enjoy the upcoming episodes, too. Thanks for watching!

[@davestrains6816]

Looks awesome!

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you like it so far. Thanks for watching!

[@richallan8664]

Love it, really reminds me of the TSG days & vids

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you like this new program. Thanks for watching!

[@pacset2]

Nice work Dan

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you like it. Thanks for watching!

[@jnv4392]

Thanks! Looks great!!

[@DanielCortopassi]

Thanks so much! I really appreciate the support!

[@Grainexpress]

Thanks for making the video Daniel. Always good to look at various techniques. I’m learning a few things and looking forward to the next video. Take care!

[@DanielCortopassi]

You're welcome. I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@justn2trains]

Nice video! It is turning out great!

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you like it so far. Thanks for watching!

[@paulkirkmanMYTRAINS]

Very well done !!!

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching!

[@MessyMason5904]

Blue box carz come out great weathered, ty for sharing

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you like it. Thanks for watching!

[@davidl.miller8168]

Dan, I look forward to watching this series and models you choose. Keep up the great work

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you like it so far. Thanks for watching!

[@Mildcat743]

Very excited to see this from you, Dan. I've been using your TSG series of detailing and modernizing a Blue Box SD40-2 as reference for my own set of C&NW units. I actually fumbled one very slightly and snapped the conductor's side sill. Lacking styrene at hand because I'm a novice, and a foolish one at that, I cut a thin strip of cardboard and CAed it in behind the sill (which I also rejoined with styrene cement) and so far it's holding strong, and even stronger with the Cannon cab bases installed.

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you're enjoying the video so far. I'm glad those old videos have been helpful with your diesel projects. Thanks for watching!

[@struck2soon]

Great stuff Dan, I am a big fan of Pan Pastels as. Over the years I have found I can use them to create even very small weathering effects, such as really thin streaks using one of those silicone brushes. A very versatile product!

[@DanielCortopassi]

I really like them too. They are pretty easy to use, come in a ton of colors, and can be used for some very subtle effects. They seem to stay put pretty well, too, and don't disappear when clear coated. I'm still experimenting with them, but I'm happy with how they worked on this car. Thanks for watching!

[@struck2soon]

@ 💪

[@bigwoz78]

I like your techniques, Dan I’m gonna have to give some of those a try. thank you

[@DanielCortopassi]

You're welcome. I hope the techniques work as well for you. Thanks for watching!

[@lucgagnon5241]

Thanks for sharing Dan. I like the way you've sanded the lettering. Glad I learned that there is a sanding tool that exist. For my part, I usually put masking tape on edges or parts I don't want to be sanded when I do it like this. Testors... That's the cheapest you used. I never airbrushing it because of fumes and mostly the smell. But there are interesting colors I'm brushing like steel, rubber or dark red. Think it's no longer available. Wet on wet... didn't know that too... thanks ! Pan pastel is another interesting product. Can't wait to see next part. Thanks again for sharing !

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you liked the video and found it helpful. The sanding sticks I got (from Micro Mark I think) are useful in many situations. I really like working with the Pan Pastels. Thanks for watching!

[@lucgagnon5241]

@DanielCortopassi Hey Dan. Many thanks for answering back. As I wrote in previous mail... Can't wait to see part 2 of the weathering process. I will add that Testors paint is most of the time my last choice. But the Model Master serie works great. Especially the acrylic line. Sad they stopped making it. I used to airbrush much of pale green, camo grey and boxcar red they were making. Once dried, it has a solid and smooth surface finish. Thanks for sharing you're work with us.

[@nyemt601]

Love the video as always, I been trying hard to fad myself so this video helps a lot. To get the lettering off next time maybe try an air brush easer with some fine media in the hopper. It may work well

[@DanielCortopassi]

I'm glad you liked the video. Removing lettering can be tricky. I may try the air eraser sometime. On this car the factory paint is super thin so it comes off really easily, unfortunately often before the lettering does. Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!

[@johnmalley4355]

Neato Dan, I like the ways you work on your models. I was wondering how to change the numbers on a caboose without stripping the paint job, thanks. And yes Boomer has a great channel, but in a different way than yours. You both bring great ideas to do things, and I appreciate you both. Thanks Again Dan…

[@DanielCortopassi]

You're welcome. I'm glad you liked the video and found it helpful. Good luck with your caboose! Thanks for watching!

[@davidballoid2118]

It's too nice Danny, you may need to add some kick-up from the wheels. Maybe in part 2 along with wheels and truck detail kinda blending the top and bottom together. The ghost fade looks good though.

[@DanielCortopassi]

This is still the beginning part. I ended up shooting way more video on this than I thought and it was getting really long, so I decided to make it into a 3 part series. Each episode deals with different techniques. Thanks for watching!

[@averageguy7136]

A lot of people are doing the weathered and grafitti rolling stock treatments, it definitely adds realism. But ,I prefer to keep mine looking like the original prototype. With regards to grafitti on cars, just tell people you are modelling the 80-90's when most cars didin't have any (now, almost all do) and you are good to go.

[@DanielCortopassi]

One of the reasons I like the early to mid-1990s time period for modeling is because there was far less graffiti. I am not going to do any on this car. Thanks for watching!

[@shipbuilding1000]

Thanks for sharing this. I’m curious, have you ever tried to reproduce one of the sun-beaten faded looks that many of the GRIP SD45R and some tunnel motors got by the mid-late 90s? And if so could you share any tips on that? I used to see quite a few around here that had a chalky, smeary sort of fade along with some rust spots happening but I’ve not successfully reproduced the look myself. Perhaps use some very light gray chalks rather than white which I did last time, in combo with airbrushing?Keep the vids coming! Matt

[@DanielCortopassi]

I do have a few weathered tunnel motors that I did with weathering powders and airbrushing. I've got a lot of those to do, so I'd be tempted to try Pan Pastels, maybe a lighter gray than the gray on the model. Some people use diluted white in an airbrush for fading, too. Maybe I'll do a tunnel motor at some point as the subject of this program. Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!

[@shipbuilding1000]

@ thanks Dan. Indeed it would make a fun video for us SP fans!

You can also hit the area around the masking tap with a clear coat, that stops the bleed under

[@DanielCortopassi]

Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!

[@plunkervillerr1529]

When the plow truck salts my street, I lineup my Lionel near the mail box. SHOEE!

[@DanielCortopassi]

That's an interesting method. Thanks for watching!

[@dexecuter18]

How to make a Boxcar look faded? -Give it a blunt and a few minutes.

[@DanielCortopassi]

Haha... Thanks for watching!