REVIEW: Everything Wrong With A 4.2 Toyota 1HD-FTE Diesel Engine

[@cheekyrick9529]

Once the aussies tune in to the episode, they gonna tell you everything you need to do to that engine. The no start issue is most probably a poor earth to the spill control valve, very common.

[@TheRealMrCods]

Although I'm Australian and your comment is spot on, I know nothing about Toyota engines 🤣

[@surewhynot6259]

Isn't bypassing the spill valve one of the first things he tried?

[@ReubenHorner]

​@@surewhynot6259he thought it was a fuel shutoff valve but it's actually not. He applied power to one side where he should already have +12 to one side (via the spill relay and fuse) and the ecu applies a quickly switching earth to the other side

[@wobblysauce]

And looking at it seemed to be chopped already.

[@a9503128]

Yep Aussie here, first thing you do is sell it and buy one with the 1VD-FTV (32v 4.5 V8) 200bhp and 317 lb⋅ft or if you find the twin turbo version 360bhp and 450 lb - ft STANDARD. Then you start modifying 😂 bigger turbo, clutch and you’ll be good for +125 bhp and +230 lb - ft.

[@Beng177]

1HD-FTE owner here - love these motors - always makes me smile driving my 70 series with one. The injection pumps on these are very reliable typically. Unless it has over 600,000kms on it, it should only really get a bit of rev hang. I could not hear the spill valve clicking in the video (which is loud) so that means likely there is some signal loss etc in the electronics. Very common that the spill controller gets a bad earth - that being a conversion it could have been anything. Other common (but not so common) failures are 1. The rev hang due to injector pump wear. this can range from a simple recalibration or injector pump replacement. Still driveable, but annoying. could last another 200,000+kms when it develops this. Seems to be more of an ECU programming problem rather than the pump itself. 2. the idler bolt on the timing belt will break if not looked after when replacing the timing belt properly. Some people either forget the small washer that goes behind the bolt or forget to replace it when worn. People have had good luck just replacing the alloy bridges to get the engine running again. also - i'm not sure where you are getting your pricing from but you guys are getting ripped off!! genuine parts for these motors are cheaper in my experience compared to non-genuine. Keep in mind that following the service manual you are not supposed to replace entire assemblies but rather rebuild them. I rebuilt all 6 injectors with genuine parts with a diesel shop and it cost me less than $1200 AUD, fitted myself. and i'm no mechanic!

[@wobblysauce]

Yep, just need to replace the worn item and put it back together, when going bush keep a few space rings and such for that issue.

[@alittlehusky5]

@@Beng177 imo it's the last of the true landcruiser motors. I have a 3F fj62 and it's the same story, replace the broken item or rebuild it if possible and they just keep going.

[@bucketheadrox]

He most likely can only import parts. Thats why we cummins swap foreign diesel vehicles. It's got parts in north American warehouses all over.

[@lNOFXlCronier]

Canadian underground mechanic here, this needs to be given to miners as a test mule and not to supervisors, engineers or geotechs for adequate testing. Doing that will guarantee you that you’ll see its weak points… as in that absolutely will break it! 😂

[@causticsdoorremovalservice1893]

Aussie here, I have a 96 troopy with the 1HZ , greatest Toyota motor ever, slow as hell ,but they are deadset reliable. It’s why they’re still being made. Great show.

[@Hillbillyhasashotgun]

Greetings from down under Rich. On the 1HD-Ts, the pistons are actually quite good and aren't usually the point of failure in those engines. There's lots of folks here in Australia playing around with 80 Series Cruisers (which had the HD-T as an option) and the most common problems are lifting the head, cracking the head, or more often cracking the block between cylinders 5 and 6. Frequently the crack in the block occurs below the piston crown and above the rings at bottom dead centre, where you'll never see the crack unless you pull the pistons out altogether. The 1HD-T was problematic from the start, with Toyota issuing a recall for the big end bearings, which were failing with low kilometers, and the bearings Toyota fitted under the recall weren't great either. On the FTE, they're pretty well understood over here, and there's not all that much that goes wrong with them. The 100 series (full size wagon) and the 70 series (utes and troop carriers) had different variations of the FTE, with the 100 series version being fitted with the intercooler and an immobiliser. They both had different throttle pedals and different Engine Control Units, but I'm fairly sure the Engine Drive Unit (often called the spill driver or spill control driver) are the same. The biggest problems FTEs have over here are caused by the EDU/spill driver playing up, which results in the exact problems you were having, cranking but absolutely no fuel. It can be anything from a bad earth, corroded plug to the circuit board in the EDU being fried. I've had hells own trouble with an EDU that didn't have a good enough ground connection from the aluminium backing plate of the EDU. The other major problem FTEs have is they bend rods at 1000 newton meters of torque. The rest of the motor and injector pump are capable of far more, but the rods aren't good enough. Lastly, on the subject of their "woeful" power and torque figures, that was entirely intentional on Toyota's end. Even the 1VD-FTV, the 4.5 litre V8 that Toyota brought to the Australian market in 07 to replace the FTE makes a similar level of power stock. Toyota did this so they wouldn't have to put in major work upgrading the clutch, gearbox, transfer case and diffs of the 70 series. A handful of folks over here chasing big torque from an FTE usually end up putting slightly modified rods from a Nissan ZD30CRD (used in the Patrol, Navara and some light trucks and busses) as well as oversized injectors. That's it, that's all they need. They're a fantastic engine, and considering we didn't get the Cummins 6BT family of engines over here in huge numbers of road going vehicles, they're among the best diesel engines we have over here. And that's coming from a Nissan guy.

[@bubbleobill267]

Aussie here….G Turbo in Perth needs the credit for the mad Patrol at the start. My 100 series Sahara has a 1hdfte in it. Best motor ever, period.

[@MakingMoneyyy857]

Dc turbos. Gturbo are dog shit

[@leftardtroller]

The 15bft is better

[@leftardtroller]

​@@MakingMoneyyy857i agree gturbo are garbage overpriced trash. Paying for a label

[@MakingMoneyyy857]

@@leftardtroller yup have enough content creators on the payroll and you can sell shit for gold

[@acdm5145]

Hey mate, just on the stuff you were saying about the 1HD-T Everything you mentioned about the piston crowns cracking once turbod is all related to the early model 1HZ, being they didn't have oil squirters and were indirect injection. The 1HD-T is the direct injection factory turbo engine which has piston oil squirters to keep them cooled, haven't seen many 1HD-Ts with cracked pistons. The engine block is the same between all 4 of the engines compared, slightly upgraded on the late 1HZ apparently, keeping Inline with the FT and Fte. The 1HZ ran from the beginning in Australia , 1990 all the way to the last FTE in 2007 Although there is no comparison to the 1HD-FTE or the 1HD-FT, the 1HD-T is able to hold it's own The main downside of the 1HZ and 1HD-T reliability is the position of the fuel bowl on the top of the piston, in a 1HZ and 1HD-T the fuel is injected offset to the side of the piston, which is fine, but commonly causes increased wear in the rod bearings (you'll commonly see people replacing the rod bearings on a 1HD-T every 150-200000kms) The biggest improvement to the 1HD-FT and FTE was the injection of fuel was in the middle of the piston crown, and the fuel bowl being in the middle, meaning the motor is getting combustion on top the piston dead center. The motor runs perfectly smooth, no kicking or messing around, you'll see people putting a 50cent Australian coin on its side and showing it doesn't move while running. As for the 1HD-FT to FTE improvement, unfortunately you lose the reliable mechanical injection, replaced with electronic injection, although still a mechanical fuel pump, not a sucky common rail. The biggest upgrade though on the FTE is the rounded shape at the bottom of the fuel bowl in the piston crown, this greatly improved the dispersion of the fuel in the bowl, meaning less centred heat on the piston. If you ever need any help with these cruiser motors, I've owned over 40 of these, worked and lived in one for years travelling and have many contacts in the industry here in Australia so feel free to hit me up :)

[@tw4093]

Although the 1hd-fte didn't run, as a diehard landcruiser nut who moved to Canada from Australia, this is my favorite episode!

[@markroycroft8203]

You’ll be right, eventually you’ll click onto the fact the Nissan Patrol it a better vehicle 😁

[@j.d.8593]

@@markroycroft8203 Nobody likes boiling kettles! 🤣

[@markroycroft8203]

@@j.d.8593 or splintering driveline components 😜

[@taylorlivingston5963]

@@markroycroft8203 Makes a great lawn ornament after the TD has exploded.

[@TheInspiringKhan]

We own a small hybrid vehicle repair shop in scarborough and two of my guys have worked over a decade on 1HZ and 1HD. All version of it. We are happy to help.

[@peterstraub7175]

I am another Long time Land Cruiser enthusiast... To be pedantic.... you missed the predecessor engines in the 'H' series... the 2H and 12H-T. Both from the 80's. Gear driven pushrods, so no OHC. All mechanical injection, 12V. the 2H is NA and ID, the 12H-T is DI and Turbo'd. I got a 12H-T in an HJ61 wagon imported form Japan. THIS engine is the true analog to the 12V Cummins. It sounds exactly like a little baby cummins. Just did a 8,000km road trip from Calgary to Texas this year. So satisfying to drive. Excellent video, thanks!

[@jackelracer593]

1vd-ftv is best toyota diesel

[@peterstraub7175]

@@jackelracer593 Maybe. I would love to drive one for 35 years to confirm your assertion. ;)

[@V.T.F.W]

​@@jackelracer593 after 1HZ😉

[@Clynikal]

12HT. The only way it fails is to turn off.

[@corley2893]

​@@peterstraub7175dont get me wrong, the 12H-T is probably the best diesel that toyota has made, but in saying that, I've had my VJD79 with the 1VD for about 8 years and done roughly 400,000km and never had an issue. It was tuned about 300,000km ago and it is starting to get tired now, but thats expected when its pushing 100hp more than factory settings. I've seen the 1VD's do close to a million km in Western Australia with regular maintenance completed.

[@boostbogan]

Australians about to mob the comment section 😂 The FTE is Gods motor, as close to perfection as you will ever get

[@lukelahnstein]

strange seeing an FTE in a "new look" 70 FTE vs VDJ is where the real drama is at

[@james-lm9kx]

@@boostbogan fuckin oath🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘

[@jasonswift7098]

@@lukelahnstein its not a new look cruiser they just put new headlights in it.

[@assininecomment1630]

(goes back to look again...) Oh, yeah! 😅 Good point,​@@jasonswift7098.

[@jonmartin28]

@@lukelahnstein not the original engine

[@edwardpeters4700]

Being a middle east truck, the 79 you got a hold of probably came with a 1GR-FE V6 gas engine. None of the 4-door 79's ever came factory with an 1HD-FTE (though a lot of Africa spec units would have had the 1HZ). Someone must have converted it. You won't have any difficulty selling the 1HD-FTE. So long as it's in decent condition, there'll be a line-up of Land Cruiser nerds interested.

[@LuaiADV]

Correct

[@alittlehusky5]

@@edwardpeters4700 we got 1hd-fte 79's here in Australia from 2000-2007

[@scottallpress3818]

Correct , when he opened the bonnet I thought it wasn’t right

[@edwardpeters4700]

@alittlehusky5 yes, but weren't those all single cabs? I thought the first 4 doors outside of things like JDM fire trucks got the VDJ?

[@jimjames6558]

​@@alittlehusky5the HDJ79 you're talking about wasn't a 4 door.

[@philb386]

Hey mate, another great video. I have had Toyota Landcruisers all of my 4x4ing life, mostly FJ40's. My currant cruiser is a '05 HDJ100, its got the 1HD-FTE motor and its done nearly 600,000 ks, doesn’t burn a drop of oil and on trips averages around 10lit / 100 k's. Cheers from NZ.

[@MickBurns-ev1nn]

Had that problem with one of them. Turned out to be the spill valve driver. (Little black box). Changed that and now I’m at about 500,000klms and still running like a new one.

[@reubs91]

Aussie here, this is one of the best engines ever made. Read up on the build process at Toyota, it makes sense why these last. Huge power gains to be made with minor mods.

[@jacksonfranzmeier1920]

This project will be a real success and game changer for Aussie and Africa Toyota fan boys… Keep us posted on the solid axles front and rear, kinda same platform for the 80’s series Toyota LC and the 105 series, and definitely the 70’s Salute!

[@jordandude6541]

Land Cruisers and patrols for aussies are the American and Canadian powerstoke/cummins

[@harrywalker968]

your dreaming.. theres no comparison.. toyotas are stuk in 1940.. ausie. u.s. 4x4 driver. never touch a toyota, they have inherant problems.like. DONT TOUCH THEM LEAVE IT STD.only good thing about the 80. is the coil susp.. toyota lost the plot after that..

[@rakotoarivelohasina5768]

1HD-FTE owner not Aussie but from Madagascar :D , one morning mine didn't want to start anymore so I changed to a mechanical pump with 12MM head, and had to tweak a little bit for the VNT turbo, but boy, it feels the same, if not more power, those engines are the best

[@tim.sorensen5862]

We have elec landcrusiers like that in Australia in the mining industry a company called Murray’s engineering does them

[@byronburns1]

GB auto

[@juiceofsapho]

Just one note about the egr valve. Exhaust gases are not re-burned, they function as inert gases to reduce ratio of oxygen in intake air. Lower oxygen ratio means lower peak combustion temperatures which results in lower NOx gases production during combustion phase (when peak power is not required).

[@anthonybaiocchi3028]

Is it my imagination or do you think there is some truth in this, but I blanked of my egr valve in my 1HZ and I thought I felt a slight drop in power. Is this possible?

[@NavyCuda]

@@anthonybaiocchi3028 yes, because the egr gases retard the combustion process. So if you remove them, it leaves the timing grossly over advanced.

[@anthonybaiocchi3028]

@@NavyCuda cheers!

[@ReubenHorner]

The injection timing is very retarded anyway as high peak pressure (ie decent injection timing) causes nox emissions. If it's a true mechanical setup (without ecu) then you can adjust the injection timing by clocking the pump

[@matt45540]

You can also take off and clean the EGR occasionally

[@Dadcandoit007Kevin]

Over here in Australia, the FTE is every Landcruiser owner’s wet dream, personally I have a 1HZ. The bottom end if the same as the FTE with the same forged crank and strong single bottom girdle main cap rather the individual caps. The 1HZs are slow as anything from factory but take turbos very well, especially due to the insanely strong bottom end. I turboed mine asoon as I bought it at 400,000kms since it was unbearable to drive but now it actually goes very well.

[@willmcc05]

Everyone I've known that's turboed a 1hz how had dramas in under 40,000ks

[@CruiserBrah]

Not mine, quite happy with my 200 series…..

[@bugulugs7169]

There's a difference between the early and late 1HZs The crank in the late 1HZs is the upgraded stronger crank you find in the FT and FTE As well as block improvements and the main improvement, piston oil squirters The discrepancies you see with people talking about the 1HZ blowing up once you add a turbo usually comes from people with late Hzj78/9+HZJ105s having no issues, and the early HZJ80 and Hzj75 engines getting too hot pistons and egts and cracking

[@jakematters1616]

@@willmcc05 most expect to much to do it right needs intercool and 1hz-t pistons old mans turbo 1hz lasted 10 years but eventualy kicked a rod after piston failed and is now a 1hdft way better

[@fredfred4086]

I have a 1992 80 series Landcruiser GXL with a factory 1HDT engine in it, with about 485,000 km's. I previously had a 1997 80 series Landcruiser DX with a 1HZ engine in it. They both had twin tanks - 95 litres and 50 litres. The 1HZ had better mileage, but was gutless on hills. On extremely steep hills it was reduced to 1st or 2nd gear at about 10-20 km/h. On the 6 km long hill climbing out of Adelaide towards Melbourne, I could only go a max of 80 km/h. The 1HDT, with a factory turbo, is more powerful, and flies up all hills. I get about 1,050 km's from 130 litres of diesel, just driving to and from work in the suburbs. The 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE engines are recognised in Australia as the ducks guts of Landcruiser engines. Serious 4wders, and farmers and miners in Australia buy Toyota Landcruisers. The Nissan Patrol GX and GU from the 90's and 2000's, with the well respected TD42 engine, were great, and their drivelines are unkillable - stronger than Landcruiser's. Landrovers and Jeeps are used as mall crawlers. 'If you want to go out 4wding, use a Landrover. If you want to get back home, use a Landcruiser.'

[@GTL77]

I’m just a shade tree mechanic i got nothing to offer but i love watching the videos so i can try and learn something new!! Looking forward to this build !!

[@Daequil]

I might be biased as I own an 80 Series with one but the 1HD-FT was the king of these engines; all the updated internals of the FTE without the E pump of the FTE. Nice little fact also is that the later FTE turbos as found in the 2003-onwards 100 series were VNT and are quite capable little units once upgraded.

[@patawic]

FTE has a harder block and crank different pistons, slightly higher compression ratio, different camshaft profile lot more differences than just the pump.

[@alittlehusky5]

Massively capable. I'm marine config iirc they were good for 315hp

[@harrywalker968]

UPGRADED.. there sht std. all of them..only good thing about an 80, is the coil susp.. other than that, THERE GARBAGE..i have a 4.2 mwm. no computer no glow plugs, 700nm.. 240 hp.. tows 4.5t. & i use 5th. towing, up hill.. toyota suk. 1940 bs..

[@markroycroft8203]

@@harrywalker968did someone piss in your cereal this morning? 🤣

[@MattBlack6]

1HD-FT owner here too. It's a legend.

[@bangsandrew666]

As an underground mechanic, you are correct by saying they are abused. I never seen anything like it. Locked in second gear and to the floor all the time. Just screaming

[@havingfun8192]

I am also an underground mechanic and I completely agree. It’s unreal how much abuse those trucks take.

[@ivorscruton5121]

The 12HT was the best engine, in my opinion, everything mechanical, inline injection pump and gear driven camshaft. Outdated but bulletproof.

[@byrongilbert3720]

your knowledge and expertise never ceases to astound me. i truly belive that you deserve to have your own manufactoring company for main stream daily drivers. the engine reviews are some of my favorite videos that you do even though half of what you say is way over my head lol.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Thanks!

[@ColtSalyer]

the, 4.2 12v 1HZ is very easy to work on (saying from experience) they are awesome!!!

[@freeride202]

As others have stated, that solenoid is not the standard shutoff solenoid you normally see. This solenoid is commanded for every injection event. It would be similar to a 6.5L DS pump or a VP44 in this way.

[@Jschultzy21]

We have a 92 1hz 75 series, absolute bullet proof, and just 2 years ago we brought a new 79 with the v8 motor before they stopped making them and it came with the dpf emissions and crap and got it taken out instantly. Not legal at all but much safer for farm use like the mining industry. Not good to do a burn which defeats the purpose of a dpf anyway… in a stubble paddock during harvest at average 40 degree Celsius weather and then paddock catch on fire…

[@peterryan7340]

My father in law has a 100 Series Cruiser with that same motor. 100% bulletproof

[@TAI-lr5vr]

Happy to see you guys doing these. I've owned a land cruiser 100 series with one of these for over a decade and it's been good

[@knownotno]

Some people in the Mitsubishi Delica 4x4 Van world did a Cummins 2.8 engine swap. Love the channel & can’t wait to see how this project turns out as a hybrid/Diesel-generator. Diesel Rotary would also be an interesting build if a spec’d engine were diesel & able to match or surpass project req’s. 🤙🏼

[@danielcassone4556]

Something to note is about the hollow cast cranks. They are known to flex and will wear out the crank bearings between cyl 3 and 4. Some guys do a bearing roll when the cam belt is due especially if you have it making a bit more power. My 1hd did me 460 000 km and i live in little nz

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Thanks for the info!

[@shanebrbich5698]

1HD???? T, maybe!

[@danielcassone4556]

@@shanebrbich5698 just refering to the motors in general

[@danielcassone4556]

@@shanebrbich5698 FT in a 80 series

[@harrywalker968]

@@DEBOSSGARAGE everythingwrong.. it doesnt have gas struts or hinge springs.. 1940.. the gearbox is weak as piss. 1940.. the engine is gutless. 1940.. there cramped pogo stix. 1940..there noisy. 1940.. the front diff is weak. 1940. it has cv joints. 1940..THERE ALL GARBAGE..

[@Lsimmarine]

Mate of mine has a FTE in a 100 series cruiser. With a "uni chip" and tune through a auto make around 300hp on 35's. Anyway his timing belt broke and it broke every single rocker arm and bent the main rocker shaft. We replaced the broken bits, lashed the valves and it started with no sign of a dead hole. He went on to finish his holiday and 10,000km later it's still going! kissed on the waahoo is a understatement. I was 100% convinced it would have needed a rebuild

[@kk280sl]

Had a similar problem, 3 rocker arms broken each within 1000km in between. The specialist I then found thought that the official Toyota dealer who did the timing belt change screwed it up likely all rocker arms would be effected. he suggested that we change all rocker arms to be on the safe side,. The Shaft SUB-ASSYM (13901-17010) was also broken each time. I insisted on a compression test as I could not believe after the pistons hit the valve the rest would be still ok. Well the compression test came out fine and 9000km after the repair the engine runs like a beast. I should mention that we did change also the injectors as they are recommended to be replaced every 200,000km. This is really a solid engine.

[@om617yota7]

Some of those timing belts are stupid easy to replace, I did the timing belt on my 1KZ in 45 minutes in my sister-in-law's driveway immediately after buying it. 25 of those minutes were from dropping a socket and having to pull the belly pan to find it. Also keep in mind that timing belts have to be replaced on a schedule too no matter how many miles they've done because rubber parts age even when sitting there unused. If your timing belt is old, replace it, even if the miles aren't there yet. Too much at risk.

[@christopherhinkel8274]

I just did the timing belt on my 1kz, easy with the exception of compressing the tensioner.

[@ganjafarmer1572]

True true

[@79series]

Oh yes! I own a one of these with the 1VD ,TD V8. My previous 79 series had the 1hdfte. Single cab. By far the best motor made was the fte. The HDJ79 & HDJ78 (1HDFTE) was only sold in Australia. If you need tech tips let me know. The 100 series fte has a more powerful output than the fte in the 78, 79 series You will pull a reliable 800nm from these all day long. That gearbox, if you put a post 2016 with the longer 2nd and 5th gear much nicer driving manners. H150 h151 are the early box the gearbox you want is the H152. Same strength,better gearing

[@beugy8546]

Aussie fte owner here also. 700k kilometers on the clock without a rebuilld. Best motor ever made.

[@SmoothCanoes]

Got a 92' 80 with a 1HDT and over 620xxxkms. Glad i did the timing belt when i did, had a crack on the cam gear going from the bolt almost all the way out to the teeth! Still pulls like a train and never misses a beat Eats the modern v8 models any day..

[@MarcSacco-xh9un]

Mate you have a unicorn the greatest Toyota diesel ever built and in a 79 series dual cab! We didn’t even get that option in aus on in Dubai. Good maintainance that thing will outlast your grand kids

[@shapracing3676]

Unless the bonnet has been changed probably find thats a vdj model that came with the 1vdftv 4.5L v8 diesel that has a large top mount intercooler to suit that bonnet. 1hdfte is common swap in patrols and that one didnt sound like td or the like so most likely why its featured at the beginning for those wondering. Being a mechanical DI injector your everyday injection shop would be able to rebuild the injectors resonable price, here in oz last time i got some was in the region of $100ea. Gen toyota prices for stuff like that are crazy anywere. Regular and preventative maintatance and servicing like anything. We have one we service original long block / turbo / fuel pump well over 750,000km . Love to see what you do with it. You'll fond they have a plastic water pump impeller but have never seen a genuine one fail. Awesome engine.

[@tannyshim3074]

Malaysia here, I have no hate on that engine. They are good for what it is. But it is common to see such electrical Issues.

[@hanselgretel8563]

You should travel to Thailand. Get your hands on the Isuzu 4J engine series. Thais are extracting amazing power levels both from the mechanical and electronic versions of these engines.

[@mr.slaphappy3794]

Yeah and then they strap them to their tiny "longtail" boats and go down tiny canals at 150 km/h 🤣🤣

[@zane8507]

Aussie here. Can get parts from mining vehicle suppliers because they still make that vehicle with mechanical fuel pump for underground. As I was typing he said exactly what I was saying 😂

[@gr7788]

Funny how all the bullet proof Toyota owners know all the issues, yet ironically they never have any. 😂 That will fire them up haha. Great videos !

[@rickjames9477]

Real Toyota diesels have timing gears not a belt and no electronics 1 wire run. 3B,13BT,2H,12HT FTW

[@teaganmacdonald8238]

Have a 1hdfte 100 series , ufi 23l turbo , +70 injectors , pdi intercooler 4 inch snorkel and intake box,3 inch exhaust . Makes 350hp 1100 nm .reliable as hell. These are gods motor

[@havingfun8192]

We run those trucks with 1HZ in underground mining they are incredibly tough units. I’ve driven thousands of kms in those trucks in 4 low with my foot in the throttle body all day long they are caked in mud and run forever.

[@richardrogers7339]

I have a 2003 1HD-FTE First thing I did was fit Filter technology filters used in the mining industry. Two external stainless steel cartridges holding two 2micron filters for fuel and oil . Have kept the oil upto 30,000 klms sent sample away for testing, came back with a big green tick ✅ The important soot level was fantastic at 0.4 ppm .maximum recommended ppm 2.0 Fuel filters go in white after about 30,000 klms their black and thats in Australia 🇦🇺 where our fuel is good . Factory filters haven’t changed color . Remember factory filters only 10 microns.

[@danwerkman]

Makes total sense what your doing. Look forward to the updates

[@joevaagen6170]

Holy shot, 1 minute from upload and numerous views!! DEBOSS IS THE BOSS!!!

[@matthewhaywood7411]

I have the 1hz in my landcruiser, sure she's slow, but she's got half a million on the clock and still untouched

[@ganjafarmer1572]

I own a 1hz daily driver, bought third hand 20 years ago. Is it a race car up a hill ? No, 1hdT will run away from me on a hill. No sensors, no ECU. Change oil, filter, timing belt and tensioner at specified intervals, and good to go. I also own a Nissan TD 27, which is even better - no timing belt, all gears. I love tham both.

[@tosil]

Hey Boss…. Access mining (whom I used to work for) sells and leases these Toyotas for underground mining. They can get anything you may need. Miller in Sudbury does the same thing.

[@johanankarback6821]

The 1HZ is the one you want if you´re going on a safari in Africa. It might not be the most powerful engine but it always get you were you´re going :) I had a Landcruiser HJ60 with the 2H engine which is the predecessot to the 1HZ. 4 liter diesel with 100hp and 5000km oil change intervals. It runs forever if you maintain it properly but not very fast...

[@danielthornton3277]

I think the major dramas with the 1hdfte was the big end bearing recall....as far as i know its the only big problem. I have a mate with one as a work car, its been flogged for years and the gearbox finally let go after 500,000km.... after pulling a 3t trailer for 10 years...

[@matthewclements4932]

Yep the black box spill valve controller is what I’m thinking. It has to be grounded the black box does. I had on that was loose on a battery box so tightened it and added a ground to the battery. Fixed the no start issue.

[@PhilThomas-pm7eu]

Hi Matthew, I have similar problem with my 100 series - crank but no start. Can you confirm where you ran the additional ground wires? I have already replaced the black box (EDU) which made no difference so then I added ground wires from the EDU heat sink back to the battery negative and this still did not sort the issue.

[@matthewclements4932]

Hi mate, you have done it right. The other part I had play up latter was one of the plugs on the fuel pump was not connecting properly. It was the speed sensor in the fuel pump not getting signal. I just tweaked the connectors and that fixed it. Is yours a factory 100? Or have you converted it into another car? Because the 100’s have the immobilizer that can be an issue with swaps.

[@PhilThomas-pm7eu]

@@matthewclements4932 Yes it is the standard factory setup - the small key icon on the dash goes out as soon as I insert the key so think the immobilizer is ok. I have checked the resistances for all sensors/actuators and they check out ok with specs in the workshop manual. This made me think that the pump itself was stuffed, however everyone I speak to says the pumps do not fail in this way ie one day running spot on, next no start. I did try dabbing 12v on the spool valve while cranking the engine and managed to get a random firing and lots of black smoke so would suggest that the EDU is not firing. Strange one really - I will be having another go at it when I get chance. I need to see what is happening at the EDU - is it being told to fire and is it producing the correct signal to the spill valve. Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

[@jamesreardon8585]

I have 2003 Landcruiser Ute with the 1HD-FTE and I love it, done 330,000 km with blocked EGR and 3 inch straight exhaust, it will see me out! Very capable and ultra reliable, only issue I've had is the plastic tanks on the radiator cracked, replaced with ally Terrain Tamer unit.

[@harrywalker968]

there still gutless noisy, cramped expensive non fuel efficient crap.. my 2002 4.2tdi. has 700nm. 240 hp. no computer, no polution bs. ohc. 3 valve, 3'' system std.. tows 4t up hill in 5th, yes, i use 5th.gets 14 lt 100. weighs 4t empty... its not cramped. or NOISY, did i say that. 330,000 is nothing.. a 7.3 s/duty will do 1 million miles, at least..

[@jamesreardon8585]

@@harrywalker968 see you in 20 years ...

[@brocksinclair66]

​@@harrywalker968td42 is a worse kess efficient engine in every compared to a FTE in every metric

[@Billithenaturer]

My all time favorite engine Toyota 4k and 1HD-FTE ❤❤❤

[@obs_nick8948]

The Landcruisers we used underground here in 🇨🇦were the N/A variant, and honestly they were VERY RELIABLE. So per regulations these trucks were locked to 1st and 2nd only (5 speed) and 4 Low. So naturally these would be on red line ALL day every day, 24/7, 365. They used to get so wore out that once you shut them off, boiling hot or ice cold it would never start, the only thing that would get them going again would be Rust Check “Red” spray lube, anything else they’d knock and not start. Being one of a dozen mechanics there I’ve only had to change 2 engines due to other unrelated issues like the harmonic balancer sheering off. The front ends are like glass, from differentials, cv axles, wheel bearings, the list goes on. Good times.

[@Sah-o5m]

Love the knowledgeable comments and perspectives. I enjoy all Deboss content but I super enjoy any progress on the Edison project, so this video is a pleasant unexpected surprise. :)

[@james-lm9kx]

never thaught i'd see the day, best Toyota engine ever!

[@STRUTZKOFF]

i have one in my boat .. yanmar 6LP fantastic engine. 350 hp i have heard the on the road ones had head cracking issues between the valves the video of the yamaha engine in your video is literally the one in my maxum boat now !

[@MRCtouring]

What is interesting is that this shape with the hood scoop only came with the 1VD in Australia.

[@victorbitter583]

Might be a hottie from Aus. Apparently our stolen Cruisers end up in the Middle East.

[@harrywalker968]

whats a 1vd. sex germ??. why do toyota have alphabet noodles names, instead of what it is..the 79 series 4.5tdi are crap. my 4.2 tdi with no computer, no glow plugs, has more nm..700nm.. single turbo.. 3 valve . ohc. 3'' system std..

[@bugulugs7169]

He said in the video that it has a V6 petrol originally, it's been swapped in with an FTE

[@victorbitter583]

@@bugulugs7169 Was that confirmed or assumed? It may have had a bonnet/hood swap.

[@chrisbackhouse5730]

​@victorbitter583 you can see the headlights and front end match the bonnet, so it's not a bonnet swap. It's probably a specific model for the middle east that wasn't available in straya

[@ultrafarmer3069]

Also a fuel knocking issue on the earlier hdj79s. Fixed by fitting an inline filter to the return from the injection pump. Otherwise great motors we have 2 with over 450k kms.

[@Techno0908]

Worth mentioning its not all bad with the electronic pump, they are certainly a big step up over the mechanical pump for refined driving and slightly better economy. As much as these where a rugged diesel they where also refined enough to go into Toyota's LC100 'kind of luxury' wagon. A lot of tuners here in Australia like the electronic pump also as it gives absolute control over timing and fuel delivery for having the nicest possible driving car even at 300+ HP builds. Also really cool to see this is a Variable Geometry turbo on this one, I believe we only ever got wastegated turbos in Australia with our slightly less difficult emissions. The gt2359V seems a good OEM size for the 1hd, but is defiantly too small on the later 4.5 v8 engines.

[@DieselAddiction]

If you remove the heater grid and the butterfly plate air flow improves. Oil change intervals critical for these engines otherwise the valvetrain will wear out prematurely, needle rollers in the roller rockers $$$, and the oil pumps need replacing approximately 300k, or they are know for big end bearing delamination. Here in Australia it is a very popular engine to modify, but if you don't check oil pressure and big end bearings before dialing the boost up on a aftermarket turbo your asking for big trouble.. Toyota cultists will Denie any issues with this engine but if you want high performance from it you must do high maintenance and preventative modifications. Head studs, ACL race bearings, premium oil, FASS fuel system, large intercooler, valve clearances every major service, high performance balancer and keyway, etc etc.

[@aaronhogan2371]

Aussie HDJ80 series /1hdt owner here. Strongly recommended to replace the con rod bearings. I've had one let go at 416,000km and a rod out the side with no warning signs on a religiously serviced engine. Off topic, I also have a FJ80 with a dead 3fe and was contemplating using the R2.8 and ZF8HP but have now decided to run BMW M57 ZF6. If 1hdfte wasn't so expensive I'd just stick with Toyota motors but the M57 is gaining popularity in Straya.

[@DarrelJones-fh2wx]

The R2.8 is a pile of crap, I did dozens of swaps when it was first released years ago and had numerous catastrophic engine failures, so I haven't done one since. It's made in China Cummins. The Isuzu 4JJ1 is a much better choice for a diesel swap.

[@aaronhogan2371]

@DarrelJones-fh2wx yep came to the same conclusions. Also looked at the Isuzu but I think the BMW X5 donor is a better total package in terms of being a 6 cylinder and already having a great gearbox attached. Fitting to an 80 series is relatively straightforward, or so it seems.

[@DarrelJones-fh2wx]

@aaronhogan2371 6 cylinders is the way to go, 4 cylinder engines have terrible inherent balance.

[@AlexSlowen]

we have many 1hd-t , FT & FTEs in stock & a yanmar 6lp high power mechanical pump if you want to convert it to mechanical 1hd-t from 1993 had revised pistons, injectors, pump, etc - very reliable still worth upgrading big end bearings on all variants if going for power

[@bunning63]

Over here in New Zealand there be some that reckon the most reliable Toyota diesel is the one converted to a V8, petrol...

[@Prisonmike89]

My brother just got a 98' LC with the 1HD-FTE in the states. It's pretty sweet so far, sounds like a tractor lol.

[@2pintsofcremedementh]

Bear in mind, if you plan on sticking one of these in a Defender, that you are adding a significant amount of weight over any factory Rover engine, and that is going to compromise the off-road performance that Defender is legendary for (see Ineos Grenadier off-road reviews, its Achilles heel is the ~700kg weight penalty it pays over a TD5 110SW). The only way you can achieve anywhere near tolerable (and still highly compromised) dynamics is by mounting the engine far back with the sump behind the front diff, which will necessitate cutting the firewall and further compromising the already limited interior space. If you go over the diff, you'll need to modify the sump and still increase bump stop height, compromising clearance and axle articulation, as well as centre of gravity.

[@DTGTDetectingTheGoldenTriangle]

I prefer the 1hdt as it has no electric components. Thats why i swapped out the 1hz in my 75 series ute with a 1hdt with a tdo6 sl2 18g and intercooler running around 300hp. No issues for 300,000kms so far 🍻

[@chasp_0784]

Not a lot went wrong for us, but we’ve got good fuel. The injection system would leak slowly as the vehicle would age and diesel would migrate up the loom and into the vehicle interior and ecu (100 series land cruiser) 😂 On the timing belt, it’s a 30 minute job. Fan belts are a worse to do job on these.

[@whiskeyinthejar24]

That's ironic after Rich talking about defenders, one of the land rover engines was known to do that with engine oil.

[@hwi7114]

As cool as the 1HD-FTE is, my favorite Toyota engines are actually the 2UZ-FE and 1GR-FE. They are extremely reliable with far more (and cheaper) availability where I live.

[@deepbludude4697]

Well done been following the e axle build. Ive got a 79 troopy 2H w Denco turbo and a 5 speed. Just recently revived it been a welcome addition to my work force.

[@alittlehusky5]

79s never came with 2H's?

[@deepbludude4697]

@@alittlehusky5 Your correct, my buddy put it in.

[@alittlehusky5]

@@deepbludude4697 ah, mint

[@yorkchris10]

My Canadian BJ60 came with a 3.4 l Hino all mechanical diesel. Indirect injection, gear-driven camshaft and some analog gizmo that was repairable and didn't make a no-start. It had the same power as my MGB. Power, comfort and emissions would make me move ahead twenty years, but the size of the wagon was perfect.

[@wysoft]

I love these trucks but I wasn't expecting to be more interested in what you're doing with it. For the longest time I've never understood why hybrid vehicles aren't utilizing the system you described - run a small diesel at a fixed high efficiency RPM, driving a generator to charge a battery pack, and drive the vehicle with motors. No mechanical linkage from the diesel engine. It's literally the same system utilized in diesel-electric locomotives, but for some reason the automotive world is hesitant to try this system in a passenger or utility vehicle.

[@Sah-o5m]

Thumbs up gif :)

[@motorbikesafari9029]

that can be just the injector pump rotor( all my cars are running those engine and i might be wrong)

[@Carbonneutraldrop]

Ever try a CO2 extinguisher for a runaway diesel?better than plugging air intake. If she’s old and leaky it can pull air in from another source. CO2 is like an off switch!

[@jarrod1687]

Best diesel motor ever made for overlanding.

[@flexjay87]

I know very little about diesel engines, never owned one, but you gotta love DeBoss garage :)

[@tdotw77]

Once you get into one you'll be hooked. The torque is absolutely insane in them, especially these newer ones with +1000lb' tq & 450-500hp

[@ReubenHorner]

​@@tdotw77very different to this one though

[@lachlanroberts1520]

Toyota still builds the FTE to this day for Yanmar who uses them as a marine engine which they are rated at 315HP.

[@martinburton9709]

Me

[@ColtSalyer]

those engines are one of the most reliable engines ever made

[@rayjon237]

These are an amazing motor, smooth, good power and very fuel efficent, of you maintain them properly they are crazy reliable. Most of the problems are poor maintenance or poor modifications by the owner. Look at the markets these were sold in a 1hdft or 1hdfte land cruiser in nice shape are hard to find and when you do they sell fast and bring good money..

[@91rss]

Diesels were sold in Canada and mines used them, The bodies were removed and set outside and sat for decades especially in British Colombia my friend says.

[@marshallhunter9446]

The 1HDFTE, gods own motor, in a dual cab 79 series Cruiser? I think that I am truly deeply in love.

[@maxherz478]

I think about building an elecric land cruiser as well. But I would highly recomend a 200 series. The frame is wider and the front axle has independent suspension, so it is possible to fit a Tesla driveunit plug and play in the front. I am very concerned about the "un-springed" masses with the motor fittet directly to a solid axle.

[@niklas4042]

Can we get an update on the milwaukee tool box that you bought some years ago, just to hear if it is holding up to your expectations or would you recommend something else. Thanks, Really enjoy the videos, is missing videos with farm equipment repairs with Kevin, but I know that you are a busy guy, do love these engine videos, keep up the good work.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Its not made by Milwaukee. I'm sure the same box is out there with a different color cheaper. Its holding up fine, but I don't like the layout much, but that is just personal preference

[@jimssawsnstuff8903]

This would be a good one for the Cummins propane, I believe running propane in confined spaces isn’t as bad as the diesel would be. I know lots of warehouses and shops that run propane forklifts. That way if you do have to run the generator to power up, you’re still good for underground 😉👍

[@avit24]

The fuel solenoid actually stops the fuel going out of the fuel pump to the injectors not getting into the fuel injection pump.

[@DieselAddiction]

The FTE pumps are very susceptible to the black death, I have replaced several for this reason. As you know factory filtration is not adequate.

[@Skiridr22]

I find the most close to perfect engine is the one you build yourself 😊

[@Danger_mouse]

0:30 Fast Nissan Patrol there... but what's it doing in a Toyota video? 🤔 1:14 The perfect engine is the 1HZ... I'm a Nissan fan, but can say hand on heart, there's nothing wrong with the 1HZ. We use them in Underground mining, if you keep oil and coolant in them they will run forever (130,000km underground in one car, locked in low range from day one - driven until the vehicle chassis broke in half under the cab)! Another one was pressure washed clean during a big rebuild of a vehicle, the block was only sealed by the mud on the outside and started leaking after cleaning - The corrosion hole was sealed with Devcon and it outlasted the vehicle 🙂👍 The 1HDTE has big end issues and Toyota had to recommend the dealers replace the big ends every 100k service.

[@ferremit]

That patrol is run by the guys at Gturbo and has an absolute MONSTER of an FTE race engine in it- 400+hp, 1000+ Nm and relentlessly thrashed on. 1HD-T had the big end bearing issues- was sort of rectified in the later models with a change to injection timing and injector nozzle seat height to reduce the brutality of the combustion event on the big ends. Wasnt an issue from the 1HD-FT onwards- The FT's had issues with them spitting out the valve spring keepers due to issues getting the bridge clearances correct (people ended up twisting the bridges and valve stems trying to tightent the adjuster and made them spit valve collets and drop valves) the FTE reaaaaaallly doesn't have any major factory flaws outside of the EGR for emissions clogging the intakes up with black goo, which is a problem that affects all turbo diesels with EGR's, but the reputation for being overbuilt is somewhat understated- the factory head gasket and bolts only start to have a fit and lift a head at around 50psi of boost, I dont think anyones found the upper limit of that injector pump yet- its all limited by the injector being able to flow enough and the limiting feature for most people is either the factory auto trans eating itself from the torque or getting a clutch that will hold on without slipping!

[@JakeG895]

1HDTE not the same as the FTE, no comparison in reliability

[@jgscs61]

My friend in my country have a 3 those Lan Cruiser ,1991,1996,2006 and a New 1 cab 2024,him never touch nothing on those engines, amazing engines 💪🏿the 1991 have a 350.000 kilometers and still original except the fuel pump, they rebuild 2 times but just that 😉

[@Justin-88-obi]

Im pretty sure the Landcruiser is on the Australian coat of arms.

[@Mr.Engineer.]

Seems you maybe were a little incorrect on your diagnostic of the engine. I have an engine workshop manual as well as EFI system detailed explanation for this engine if you want. First off, it looks like you have a late model 1HD-FTE with both EGR cooler, VNT turbo and intake flutter valves out of a HDJ100. Though this engines mostly were for the European marked, but clearly wrong there. This means that your automatic transmission control is built into your ECU and your ECU also requires an external immobilizer signal from the original key and immobilizer ECU. So many things can go wrong here for no start. The spill valve is also electronically controlled with timing to inject the right amount at the correct time, so simply applying 12v to it wont work, but you touched on this in the video. The valve is supposed to see 100 or 150 volts from the electronic drive unit (EDU), the high voltage mainly to make sure the valve is fast enough to open and close and do a pre injection. Not sure of minimum voltage for the valve to close the spillway and give you 100% pumped diesel to the injectors. Also there is something like 5-6 different ECU's for this engine, so looking at wiring diagrams you must make sure to look at the correct one as they are all wired up a little bit different. After a certain hours the connection rod bearings will wear out and needs replacement, so do these before catastrophic failure. The engine can easily be converted to mechanical injection using the 1HD-T, 1HD-FT, 1HZ or Yanmar 6LPA pump, but you also need to change out the oil pump cover and gear train connecting the pump and crankshaft together. You also loose the 1HD-FTE pumps advantage of 1350 bars injection pressure. My experiences with the 1HD-FTE and electronically fuel injection shenanigans: It started, but timing were off and it smoked a lot. Timing valve measured okay, but was leaking so replaced it. Turned out my that the timing valve output on my ECU was fried, a couple of resistors inside the ECU was burned. Replaced the ECU, but the problem was still there, ended up being my fuel filter housing letting in air and thus making the not having enough diesel in the casing to be able to adjust timing. Have since removed the original ECU completely and installed a 3rd party stand alone ECU. Now I can use whatever timing I want, what ever torque demand and so on. The EFI system when it lets go can be a pain and with limited diagnostics as well on these old engines I totally recommend a stand alone ECU. I used Baldur DID1 with great results. Have it on both my 1HD-FTE and 1KD-FTV. 500.000km on salty roads wreak havoc to the old wires and EFI system, but now I can easily identify the problem if I have a wire break :D

[@PhilThomas-pm7eu]

Hello, very interested to hear you are using one of Baldur's ECU's on the 1HD-FTE. Did you wire it yourself or use a ready made conversion loom? I have an '01 100 series with the crank no start issue and am suspecting the factory ECU has failed (everything else seems to check out ok).I also have a DID1 that I will be using on a Merc OM648 (not yet running).

[@cvytnioy56dvfuj4g7]

Solid engine. Have owned a couple of cruiser utes with that combo. Delete the egr. High flow dump pipe and 3" exhaust and a tune. That easy. Love from Australia Edit. Our last 1HDFTE was in 2007 when it was replaced by the VDJ 4.5 V8 We never got the twin cab with the 6cyl. The 1HDFTE in commercial vehicles didn't have an intercooler either. Only the 100/105 series wagon got that.

[@geoffmoore1478]

Someone has probably mentioned this, but I'd guess the reason the bonnet scoop has a 6 on it (missing a V) is because it's a bonnet from a V8 diesel 70.

[@mj_aussie_coaster_travels8310]

We have a 1hd-t in our coaster bus, total weight about 6300kg and the 1hd just works. Will siton the open road speed limit all-day, altnough fuel consumption is much better around 90.

[@jackellis2494]

I put the 1hdt engine in my old defender 110. Was the best thing I ever done to it