Defender mid crossmember replacement - the way I did it...

[@stephenlyttleton9032]

The mallet: Land Rover Special Tool #001. Nice work Will.

[@lrworkshop]

hehe It's a life saver

[@valentinlours6698]

Hi ! Awesome video and tuto . Where did you find this parts without seat braquet weld on ? Thanks

[@10beerman]

A dremel is your friend here, nibbling away the nuts.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Epic job, well done. The chassis of my 30 year old 90 receives numerous anti-rust treatments (every 5 years) and I hope it will never get to that condition.

[@lrworkshop]

Cheers! Fingers crossed for many more years for your chassis

[@machiningbasics1729]

Nice work ! We should all just move to Australia we’d never even have to touch the chassis

[@jamesbarker4808]

Thanks I now realise what is the side locker chassis bracket on the military 110 is also used to hold the mid crossmember on the station wagon so always fitted.

[@lrworkshop]

Glad it was of help James

[@josephkerr6955]

Hi, I have emailed you pics of my attempt, I did not open up the bolt reinforcement enclosure, I just cut through with a 125 mm disc, took 2 per side mind.

[@derekwright2388]

For cutting the nuts an oscillating saw (sometimes known as a multitool) would work well

[@lrworkshop]

Cheers. Yet another tool for the list!

[@chrismitchell45]

Every project I’ve tackled involving the chassis has resulted in a 5# can of rusted nuts and bolts. I think they’re breeding 😂 YRM has a 2 piece replacement kit for the 90 crossmember. Replace and then weld the center together…. Yeah right. Fortunately, that specific crossmember is in surprisingly good condition on my 1989. I have every intention of selling mine once I’ve finished my current projects. I’ll let the next owner deal with crossmember rot when it rears its ugly head. Great video!

[@lrworkshop]

They do breed, like rabbits. Cheers Chris

[@josephkerr6955]

Am thinking of inserting my x member from the side, as i am about to do my C Pillar and Sills

[@Defender110SLO]

Stil waiting to do this. But first is the rear cros member then doors then.... Its a Defender thing. Cheers 🍻

[@lrworkshop]

Yeah that endless journey. I went through the rear crossmember 7 years ago. Doors in the next few years, bulkhead next...

[@RoverAddis]

Man I feel sad for you guys leaving in those conditions and be a classic car lover...the only thing that doesn't get damaged over here is the chassis...I even got the factory paint on my 90

[@lrworkshop]

Our atmosphere is like a salty bath 🤮

[@RoverAddis]

@@lrworkshop am sure you have seen the more nice ones here in Africa...the body panels here tho are pretty much damaged including mine

I hope mine never gets to that point... But I know it will some day...

[@carltonr3417]

Oxy acetylene with a cutting head. Would chomp through it like nothing. If you’re careful you can melt the bolt heads or nuts off without damaging the part it passes through, especially if it has a washer. Although I wouldn’t do it to any bolts that go through aluminium.

[@lrworkshop]

Sounds like I need another toy for the garage!

[@rustandoil]

Mine was just as rotten but came out easier, but only because I had to remove the heel board, top of floor, the angled sections of the tub, underfloor braces and seatbelt brackets due to extensive corrosion..... Slowly going back together 😉

[@sstoneman5020]

Mine was easy as. I'd already stripped the floor out to replace the floor supports😁 Will, any reason you didn't fill up those mud traps with waxoil or something first while you had easy access?

[@lrworkshop]

In my head this is a temporary fix. It might be a few years but i'm interested to see how the bare galv holds up

[@mudpanther6079]

The usual way of doing it is chopping it all out with the floor in place , cutting the new one in half fitting it then welding it back up can send photos to explain abit better , that's what's been done with mine , currently replacing all the tub supports aframe crossmember etc due to the bloody mud traps in the aframe member has then rotted out the top of the chassis so had to do all that aswell :/

[@lrworkshop]

I've seen it done that way but didn't really want to cut a new part, or to weld galv. The boltable seat brackets make it a lot easier to fit than years ago

[@mudpanther6079]

@@lrworkshop quick on having trouble sourcing the layered pad that goes behind the b post that you mentioned on another video , ive checked what i think is most of the lr workshop diagrams etc cant seem to source it any help at all would be much appreciated :)

[@lrworkshop]

@@mudpanther6079 Do you mean the bit of foam that fills the gap where it meets the seatbox?

[@mudpanther6079]

@@lrworkshop exactly that cant seem to find part number or dimensions to order it so can just do one side in a day rather than taking it apart then waiting for parts , ordering new bolts, door hinges etc incase I've got to grind/ drill them all out

[@lrworkshop]

@@mudpanther6079 I used some 12mm thick neoprene and cut it to size

[@gshort4707]

Another vote for a dremel here.

[@lrworkshop]

I'd destroyed my dremel doing the B/C posts!

[@gshort4707]

@@lrworkshopI've heard others say that dremels don't last. I only use mine for rusted nuts and small cuts where I can't get a grinder in. There are cheap copies available now, so becoming more of a disposable tool.

[@Rob-cz7lg]

I dealt with it by buying a 90 instead🤣

[@lrworkshop]

Lol good plan