Some tips on fitting an outrigger and radius arm on a Defender

/ britrest
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If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line! Maybe I can help!
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[@frankjones5526]

Super good information I have to do some out rigger work on my series 2A and all this information transfers directly thanks again ciao

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad to help

[@SimpsonsClassics]

Great video this very helpful.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Glad it was helpful!

[@roestalker1117]

Glade you fetched this subject up Mike as have one possible both of mine to do in the next few weeks hopefully now I've replaced the back ones

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Lost count how meany I have done - shame the design was not like the series Defenders are built in rust traps Mike

[@philthorpe4549]

Excellent timing Mike! I'm going to be doing a patch at the base of an outrigger this week and was wondering how much of a nightmare the re-alignment of the radius arm would be if I made life easier by whipping it off first. Mind set to rest, thanks very much. (And yes, I know, patches are just wrong!)

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Follow the tips about re installing horizontal and dinging out the wings on the axle and it will be a dream! Plenty of anti seize on those bolts! Mike

[@badcopshow]

Thanks Mike very educational, saved for future reference.... Missing the raccoon... J. Scotland

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks - I really need to tell people that I am trying to build a catalogue of tricks, repairs and knowledge which you can search on the home page Mike PS - yes, I miss him too...

[@ScR-jb7th]

Thanks for the video and the top tips. Today I managed to get a few hours work on my Landy, the bulkhead bolt as with the radius arm bolts undid easily, I have cut away most of the old outrigger, but my chassis is not good. Looking through the outrigger sized hole, I can see the inside of my chassis is good, so good the paint is still intact and there is no debris. Unfortunately my outrigger ripped off by hand, leaving just the old welds, also the top of my chassis is holed. So your cheaty way is not going to work for me, not on this side anyway. I am not about to take the lump out, but I have removed the floor and discovered that the bottom of the bulkhead, the area below the pedals that the floor screws onto, has rotted away, this make access easier, but I am going to remove some more of the lower bulkhead to allow access to the inside weld on the outrigger, and the top of the chassis. I have the front of my Landy on 10" ramps, with all the wheels still on, so refitting the radius arm shouldn't be a problem.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Hmm, I think I have been here before! If you plate the hole, you will have good metal to work with, but remember to fit the bulkhead bolt in before welding AND if your bulkhead is a bit thin, tack the corners of the outrigger and make sure the door shuts correctly, before attacking with the welder - you may have to jack up the door pillar to compensate for the bulkhead drop. I have had to do a bit of corrective work on these in the past where owners had a go, but didn't realize a couple of mm drop can equal 10mm of gap in the door Mike

[@ScR-jb7th]

Some more good tips Mike, thanks. I think my bulkhead is solid enough, nothing appeared to move when I removed the bulkhead bolt, I did pay special attention to that after watching your video about adjusting door gaps. Happily my sill is solid, it may not look it but it is good. I have been renovating a full set of doors and plan to fit them once the welding is done, so I will be able to fettle them into place. My Landy is a 28 year old 110, two years ago I had to replace the rear quarter of the chassis, and last week I replaced the body member that sits on top of the chassis under the middle row of seats with the tub still in place. Neither of these jobs are for the faint hearted or total novices, but even as an experienced mechanic I find your tips very handy, as this is the first Defender that I have had to work on the chassis, keep up the good work.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Aye lad - it's not easy - but it is rewarding knowing you do it yourself I really want to get other guys into something more adventurous than filling the tank or changing the oil But we have to start somewhere! I used to weld chassis with gas and rod many years ago - swore by it The I got a MIG - and the I got a bigger 230 amp MIG! That rattles off jobs, providing you have something to weld to I cannot understand why some people patch outriggers - if you catch them early instead of patching, bang a new one on In that way, you can have a chance the metal behind it on the chassis is weldable, and once waxed its good for a long time I am supposed to have a licence here for welding chassis, but after 30 years I may have got the hang of it now! LOL!Mike

[@ScR-jb7th]

I also have about 30 years of welding experience, I have gas-less Mig and a stick welder, unfortunately I don't have a garage, so I have to weld outside. I live in the north of Scotland which makes welding a challenge outside. I have a plan forming, I am going to cut the outside and top of the chassis just a bit wider than the welds for old outrigger, the steel is good there. I will make a patch for the side and top of the chassis, in one piece and tack it in with the smallest Mig tack that I can, so that it is secure. Then bolt the outrigger in place, remembering the spacers, once the outrigger is fettled into place, (it is an aftermarket one, so we both know it wont fit well to start with) I can tack it in place, on the new patch. I can then break the original tacks and take the patch with the outrigger into my shed and stick weld the two together, making sure that I don,t warp it too much. That way I only have to do two vertical welds, (which I hate) instead of four. It might work, time will tell. The consolation is, that the next journey my Landy will make, will be to the MoT station, so it will all get examined before it goes on the road. Steve. P.S. Have you heard that the UK is meant to be bringing in a law that make vehicles over 40 years old, not require an MoT, what are your thoughts on that?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Well, I used to live in a terraced house and welded in the street outside - in the North East, so I sympathise with your working conditions and climate!I tried gas-less MIG once and never again! Covered in showers of sparksNow I know gas-less is supposed to be stronger but it never looked rightAfter experimenting with MIG I found the best was an Argon CO2 mix - I think 80% argonNot cheap but fantastic industrial types welds - and no splatter so no clean up, so vertical welds were easy going top to bottom - just gotta play with the MIG settingsI was never any good at thin stick welding - bigger stuff ok, but I see your pointI found that with thin stick start at the top and do an inch then stop and do a bit at the bottom and work back and fourth, giving the metal time to coolLooked a bit shonky but was strongI heard about the MoT for old carsTo be honest I am not avers to the the test - just to keep your car in safe shape, but it has become so anal that it is a wonder any car passesI have been out of the UK over 25 years now - still come back now and again, but I don't think I would have patience for the MoT now Best system I saw was in New Zealandnzta.govt.nz/vehicles/warrants-and-certificates/warrant-of-fitness/Very fair, cheap and quick I drove over a big pit on long ramps and mechanics were at different posts checking stuff - done in 15 mins If there was an issue that was minor - eg low tyre tread it was noted and you had to get it fixed for the next test (every 6 months for old cars) In Quebec we don't even have an annual test - let alone emissions!, but man, are there some dangerous cars out there!

[@nickybanks1191]

Hi there very interesting video thank you so much I may need your advice very soon im working on something you will love im just waiting on the patient on something new not what you are talking about so don't worry my friend it's something very different,will be in touch soon all the best banks'e in spain.

[@dobcross]

I'm doing my front outriggers on my td5 90 how do you weld the top of the outrigger do you take the footwells out.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Better with the floor out

[@hyepridethug]

Hello Mike. I installed some new Radius Arms and they seem to be almost touching the chassis on the lower weld point. Is this normal or do I need to cut that lower piece off? Thank You!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Send me a picture - [e-mail]

[@fionanokelly]

I wish I could take my engine out.It's so much easier to get the clutch done.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I usually do clutches like that - 300Tdi are a dream Mike