DEFINING WHAT "VINTAGE” REALLY MEANS: How Can You Tell When Old Sewing Machines Are Heirloom Quality

[@TheCynedd]

I like your description of "Heirloom vs Vintage" sewing machines. I have a 1956 Singer model 319 and it runs like a champ and pretty much sews anything I put under the presser foot. My "depression era" Singer treadle (inherited from my grandmother) works fantastic and once saved my neighbour's wedding by me finishing the dress on it when the power went out during a blizzard in Michigan. However, as much as I love my vintage and heirloom machines, I love my computerized Brothers and Pfaffs.

[@elijahjadiel1524]

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[@terranceoakley8259]

@Elijah Jadiel Flixportal :)

[@elijahjadiel1524]

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[@terranceoakley8259]

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[@tinamcnalley2575]

My first machine was a 1974 Singer Golden Touch 'n' Sew with a plastic gear that caused its demise in '89/'90. I replaced it with a Janome made Kenmore. Built in buttonhole, zigzag, stretch stitches, built in carry handle. Approximately 2/3 of outer casing is plastic along with control knobs. It has never been professionally serviced. Just oiled and sporadically cleaned. Three years ago it suddenly just would not do anything but straight stitch. My heart sank just knowing a plastic gear had died. Decided to open it up on my own - obviously not breaking any warranty. Inside was 100% metal gearing - in dire need of some fresh lithium grease. Has run awesome ever since. Asking price on ebay for most of this line is currently what they sold for back then. $250-$300. I agree the machine isn't heirloom, but I'd spend $200 for repairs on one before I'd waste $200-$300 on a current "plastic fantastic" computerized model. Have to wonder if there are other Hybrids with all metal guts.

[@pettylove86]

Is your Kenmore a 385 model? I bought one that was a trade-in at our local sewing center and had been checked out and cleaned. Based on some research I believe it is circa late 80s or early 90s and was most likely built by Janome. I really like that machine, simple to use and the weight of it tells me it has metal parts. I have thought about buying another one as a backup. Thanks for the info in your post. I never heard of lithium grease.

[@tinamcnalley2575]

@@pettylove86 Yes, it is the Janome 385, 24 Stitch model. Both the 24 and 30 stitch models came with an additional buttonholer. The machines are an almond color with a medium gray background color on the front of the column with orange lettering. Very odd color combo. I'm also looking for a donor. They usually sell for $35 to $40, I've passed up at least 3 in the last few years and could kick myself in the behind. I'm getting ready to go into the column again to re-grease the gears, but this time I will use Triflow Grease instead of lithium. I seemed to have used my machine just often enough to prevent the lithium from separating, but it's so old, I'd like to avoid having to disassemble the gear stack to clean out that old grease. I'm hoping new Triflow grease will prevent that by breaking down the old lithium. Triflow oil is wonderful for sewing machines and I'm finally reading similar results on the Triflow grease.

[@victoriablocker9118]

I love your videos. Thank you so much for the information.

[@MickeyLu09]

I love this video. I have several vintage machines and several heirloom machines. My youngest machine is an early 80’s Elna super and my oldest is a Singer 128.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

That is awesome!

[@alphanerd1355]

I have a black Necchi BU no.142600 with the accessories and manuals included.

[@jeanbeaupierre6779]

thanks for the info i have a vintage singer from the 1960s and its all steel. it sews very well.

[@ronalddaub9740]

I love my minesota. Flying shuttle machine. And 1969 Riccar 1950 Singer 66 . Beautiful green 💚 straight stitch Kenmore. I also collect old toy chain stitchers and they can be very interesting

[@tammyrhyne8869]

I was just given my grandma's sewing machine that was her mom's before her. It is a kenmore model 148.293 model #29 and it has a cabinet. Just had my husband's grandpa look at it and we oiled it and works beautifully and I am very blessed to have a cherished item from them and my goal is to past it to my daughter one day. What a blessing to have many generations working on a great machine.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

That is awesome!

[@pettylove86]

Your machine sounds nice. I have a Kenmore 148.210, model # 21. It's pretty and sews beautifully; I even like the sound of it sewing. Before I got back to sewing I got rid of my mother's White machine from the 60s and regret it to this day.

[@HumanFellaPerson]

I've got my Grandmother's Viking from 1960, and I love it. Pretty sure it's got some plastic bits on the inside though. Much better than my modern Singer "Heavy-duty" though!

[@PoisonTheOgres]

Wow I literally 'inherited' ( not officially, since luckily noone died) a 1914 Haid und Neu sewing machine from my grandma on the day you uploaded this. It used to belong to my great grandma, so it's literally an heirloom! Still works like a dream, with a handcrank, which may not be super practical, but I love it so much

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Thank you for sharing your story with us. So wonderful for you to be trusted as the machine's next caretaker. I love heirlooms and especially mechanical ones!

[@sharondavidson7072]

I agree with what you're saying.I fortunately had a Kenmore that had all steel construction which I bought in 1976 new.I gave it to my sister so she could learn to sew.

[@melanie_luv2_sew]

I thoroughly enjoyed your video very informative I have a Kenmore 158 manufacture code 1802 model number and I didn't know it was as amazing a machine as you describe the difference between vintage and heirloom-quality thank you

[@susanmazzanti5643]

My first sewing machine is a late 50s Singer. It still sews very well. In fact it will top stitch better than my new one and sew through a lot heavier material. It will stitch over crossed seams of jeans. I need a shem but it sews. I found out the hard way that it will sew a finger. I learned to sew on my grandmother's treadle machine but I love my Singer.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Thanks for sharing Susan. Almost all machines made before the mid 1960's are known to be Heirloom quality. Most new machines are not as strong as vintage models. Any new machine that can sew heavy material will costs many thousands of dollars and its lifespan is short by design given the software many of them require. I have had many clients who use newer machines for some of their conveniences, but they also consider it a must to have at least one if not more vintage models for projects that require consistent power, but without moving up to an industrial machine.

[@terimallott6365]

I have a model 75 White Rotary In a cherry wood waterfall cabinet. When I got it it was locked up and I meticulously cleaned every part and now it hums like a dream. She is a beast. Is she a vintage or an Heirloom vintage???

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Teri and thanks for writing. I'm happy to say that you very much have an Heirloom quality machine. It was made circa late 1930's and a version of it was shown at the 1939 World's Fair. They even sold commemorative versions of it that sometimes will have a little emblem of the fair along with the White logo. Stay tuned for a video I will make soon on how to service/maintenance the motors on these. They literally just don't make home sewing machines like they used to. Congrats on your model.

[@tracywilson6091]

Thank you for all your information I have a kenmore heavy duty all metal machine 1968 -71 super happy to know that it’s a good one😊

[@johncolvin2561]

The problem with plastic was a lot of the owners would oil the plastic repeatedly when the plastic was not compatible with petroleum based lubricants. Plastic parts were only used in low stress areas of the machine.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Yes, you are right John. And yes, at first, they used plastic in low stress areas, but eventually, they sold out completely and went to plastic in areas that cause stress fracturing in the plastic over time.

[@charlottehorsfield3249]

I have a 1963 Singer sewing machine in a cabinet. I would love to see a video on that. It's a beautiful machine and in great shape. This machine has all of the original parts like the pleater, corder, and all others for this model. When I had it cleaned years ago told me not to ever sell it as it has all brass parts where needed. Does anybody have one?

[@hyderhode]

I just started sewing last summer at the age of 63, and have been learning essentially on KZbin. I bought an inexpensive Janome JN508DX, and purposely chose that model because I did not want one with computerized parts. I have been happy with it so far, but recently my mother-in-law died and left her sewing machine behind, which nobody else wants. It is a very heavy Janome 366, with some external plastic but most of the body is steel. (We live in Japan, by the way,) I contacted the Janome company and they told me that this model was sold between 1966 and 1970. Do you know if this model has plastic gears? I am hoping to get it serviced and try working with it. I am looking forward to the next video!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Gwendolyn. First, congratulations on venturing into sewing!! As for the Janome 366 model, it was made during a time when machine makers were still producing all metal machines, but had new models introduced with some plastic. Based on the image I found of your machine model, I would wager that yours is all metal. You can check underneath or remove the lid which I believe is removable on your model. I made a video on a "Federal" department store branded machine that was made by Janome as a private label machine. If you look closely at the side door, you will see a resemblance to the one on your Janome 366. The machine I show is a ZigZag model and I believe yours is a dedicated straight stitch but they were engineered with the same quality. Here is the video I made which shows my past Janome (posing as a "Federal")! I suspect that your Janome is definitely worth having serviced. It likely has a very strong motor like mine did. Here is the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZrPon96o86Hh7M

[@hyderhode]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you so much for replying, and for your informative videos! In fact your video on the Federal machine was the first of your productions that I viewed. I found it while googling both in Japanese and in English to get more information about my mother-in-law's machine. I confess part of my desire to keep it was plain old scentimentality, but partly because I thought it would be stronger than my present machine. As you suggested, it has no zigzag. It is now in transit to my home, and a kind lady at a local fabric shop has put me in touch with "their" special machine guy. I'm excited; thank you for your help!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Thats great news that you have a lead on a repair person for your Janome Gwendolyn. And don't underestimate the importance of being sentimental. If it were not for that, many old machines would not have been kept by people who do not sew, but held onto the machines out of their connections to the prior owners who were important to them. I made a video on "Provenance" and the heritage of old machines and how they are forms of Time Capsules!! So I surely do appreciate nostalgia and sentimentality for the past. Good luck with your Janome!

[@matthewdegraffenried2771]

Great information! Information is very helpful!

[@ronalddaub9740]

I'm collecting, repairing, sewing 🧵 this is good. Most of the machines that I come across just need to be cleaned up and oiled , I know I'm going to get on one of these days and I already have that has a blown up plastic gear the singer 347 and 348 robin egg blue had a mixture of bronze metal and or plastic on some very interesting

[@owenprince4823]

At one time I had about 25 sewing machines. Mostly I collect singer but a few were machines that were too good of deal to say no to. I have given away a lot of them. I still have 8 machines. I have a treadle singer 201 from 1936 that I got from my mother who got it from her mother. It has been in the family from when it was new. It is in a treadle and works as good today as when it was new. I use a rubber belt and not the leather belt drive. I have two singer 237 that I have put in a treadle base so they work with a motor or treadle. I have a singer 217 that I put in a treadle and it is both motor driven and treadle driven. The others are not in very good condition and will just use for parts. I had to empty a storage bin so took a few machines made in 1910 to the dump. I kept what I could for parts.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Owen. Very cool to hear that you salvaged what you could in parts from those you could not keep since vintage parts are sometimes of superior quality to newer reproductions.

[@ionuthera2598]

Hy,i want to know about an old sewing machine Victoria model 364 ,i want to buy one and i know if it a good machine!Do you help me with some informations?Best regards!

[@anthonyiron4635]

Do you have a "full restoration" series of videos? I would like to see how you undertake a full overhaul on an heirloom machine. I would like to see a the full take down and restoration of one model from beginning to end as opposed to a light overhaul. As part of your overhaul do you check timing? Thank you

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Anthony. I made a series on the Singer 115 where I showed various restoration techniques. I have added new tripods to my video gear and so I'm thinking of making a new series where you can follow along one machine from start to finish. Watch for further updates as I want to select a machine that is more common to what I normally find than the Kenmore Free Arm which is an extreme case of overhauling with its frozen issues.

[@anthonyiron4635]

I would love to see a one machine from start to finish video. I would also like to thank you for your videos. Brought the 301 home from my mothers today and had to trouble shoot it. I pulled the hook because it was full of threads. But while the hook was out I noticed that there was a "sticky" spot. So taking my time and using sewing machine oil I loosened up the sticky take up lever linkage (wd not needed). I then took covers off and oiled the entire machine. Now she hums. Thanks

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Yes Anthony, the Singer 301 and also the Singer Featherweights tend to be more prone to "catch" loose threads. I have been able to remove those without removing the hook, but your method might be more practical. I will try it the next time I find one with a "nest" of thread.

[@kayshakespear7979]

I have a Ken ore #15817921 witch I loved but could not find a replacement for the bobbin hook. The hook had worn and was causing skipped stitches. Should I hold on to it?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Kay and thank you for your question. Although I think you might still be able to get a hook for your model, it was made after they started using plastic gears. If the machine is running otherwise or you can get a hook inexpensively, then you could continue keeping it in operation.

[@kayshakespear7979]

Thanks for getting back to me with good advice.

[@rehaniqbal3790]

What name black machine I have it too good work

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Singer 15. One of the toughest home sewing machines ever made!!

[@matthewdegraffenried2771]

Question... I have a Singer 500a that I have been using for a couple months. Have it stitching really well after smoothing out some burrs on the hook. However, it seems to be a little weak when sewing through just 3-4 layers of fabric. I just wonder how much I can bring that back by cleaning/replacing the brushes and commutator on the motor? Thoughts?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hey there Matthew. If your machine is oiled well which I assume it is and their are not loose threads slowing down the bobbin area or bobbin winder area, then its possible that your motor could benefit from a servicing. Funny you should ask about this since I am planning a "Motor Series" where I will show how to maintenance a variety of vintage motor types. Note this would be for motors that are sound since maintenance and rebuilding are two different things. Good news is that the motor in all of Singer's Slant-O-Matic series including the 301, 400 series, 500 series, and even the 600 series are relatively simple to access unlike some motor designs. Stay tuned as I hope to launch this series over the summer.

[@kenroyjames5822]

Do you do the Viscount brand label

[@larrysdustyattic7110]

as usual fantastic and informative video can not wait for the next one because my problem is I like them all. Maybe you will touch the next time on how to restrain from purchasing when it is such a good deal. I sew and my wife can not understand why I need so many I can only use one at a time. Thanks

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Larry. Yes, its tough to resist rescuing these machines when many go unappreciated. Maybe you can find new homes for them after you have had time to enjoy them (Which as you might imagine will allow room at your place to then bring in more!!)

[@Essetheartist]

My machine that I bought last month looks alot like the black one but it says "Royal" and it's a teal one that has a brittle wire and bad motor. I took it to a shop near me and they said i paid too much for it. Its about 90 years old and was advertised as a working machine. It was not. But it seems to have potential. I recieved a refund for it but Im contwmplating ridding of it or trying to restore it. The motor has a loud roar and sparks when i connect rhe plug to an outlet. Everything else seems decent about it.

[@janetflint8202]

Great info....can you tell me about a machine my mother bought for the cottage at least 55 years ago, I'm sure it was used when she bought it. It's blue and in scrolled gold letters like the truck, it says FORD, on the motor it's says made in Toronto Canada, just off hand I don't recall the name of the company that made the motor. I'm at home so I can't look, it's still at the cottage. It weighs a ton. It looks to belong in a cabinet but its not. Thanks so much.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Janet. I can't tell for sure without seeing yours, but I suspect its very likely that your machine is a private label brand made in Japan for a North American retailers or distributor. It has no connection to Ford Motor Company, but might have been for store chain or brand name that used Ford. Many of those machines often use the term "Deluxe" on them as I suspect some marketer thought that would help increase sales. Most of these imported machines would have to be fitted with motors and cords etc. that were made in US or Canada in order to comply with our electrical standards which vary from those in other parts of the world. Most machines like yours have dimensions that allow the to fit into Singer cabinets. They were trying to use Singer specs in order to make selling a "new brand" easier for the consumer that likely had either a Singer or White branded cabinet. So, broadly speaking, I'm going to guess that your machine falls into a large group of Class 15 Clone machines whether its a Straight Stitch only or ZigZag capable machine. It uses Class 15 bobbins and bobbin cases. I hope that's helpful.

[@janetflint8202]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage thanks for the info that answer why the motor was made in Canada. The ford scroll must have been copied from Ford it's that same scroll. Lol

[@MICHAELPAFFENROTH]

Do you consider the Singer 503a an heirloom vintage? Have you restored one of the 500 series?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Michael and thank you for writing. To your quest, yes, I have overhauled this series of machine. The 500 models are (almost) identical to the 400 series that came just a few years before them. They did move the bobbin winder and they changed how the top lid opened. But these machines are all metal inside and their motors are legendary for ease of service. When I overhaul one of these for a client, I always remind them that these Slant-O-Matic generation of Singers are very well made, but they do not like to sit for long periods without use. They are also, like many European machines from this period, VERY vulnerable to getting stuck if stored in an attic or garage. Of course, they can be unstuck with lots of time and patience but they are more fussy about sitting dormant than other machines that have simpler mechanicals. All machines should be stored in climate controlled spaces. If you store your machine indoors and use it periodically, I would say that it can definitely be handed down for future generations to use!

[@Balkongodlaren]

I agree that some vintage machines makes more sense restoring then others, but I don't think that a machine automatically is worth restoring just because it has all metal parts while a machine with some plastic parts don't. There are many different metals used in sewing machines and metals can be wrought, cast, sintered, pressed, etc... (Counting steel and iron even though they are not metals.) There are also many different kinds of plastics. Some of them are very tough and wear resistant, some are not, and some plastics that were commonly used in knobs and covers in the 60:s and early 70:s have deteriorated with age and may render a machine useless even if the mechanics inside are still OK. Some low quality metal parts are more prone to failure than high quality plastic parts, even though metal parts usually last longer, but in the long run all mechanical elements wear, regardless of material, and they will all wear out eventually and has to be replaced sooner or later. I would probably not spend time restoring the 1970:s Kenmore you are talking about, because they are rare where I live and spare parts are hard to get. I would however restore a late 70:s Husqvarna since they are plenty around here, and even though only the most common spare parts are available a donor machine would be easy to find if something breaks or goes to far out of tolerance! But, if your criteria for restoration is that the 60 years old machine you restore now should be able to go on for another 60 years, then you need to take into consideration spare parts availability in the future, or rather spare parts makeability if you are realistic! In that case I think your criteria should not be the original material but be how easy the parts would be for someone to make! How complicated are they, and how much precision in the parts does the design of the machine require?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

I share your approach to parts availability. My criteria apply to the US and Canada. And you mention that where you live, Kenmores are rare and Husqvarnas are common. In North America where I am located, just the opposite is true which is why most European brands of sewing machines are more of a challenge to service here. As far as metal based machines go, all of the machines I consider "Heirloom Quality" could be expected to last many more decades depending on how many hours they were used in the past. Steel and Iron have proven their worth over literally generations. Most domestic grade machines were not used for nearly as long (hours) as industrials have been and so given how strong the domestics were made, I have only rarely ever found a vintage machine that was worn out. Most often, they are "asleep" as they have sat dormant for long periods. So yes, you are very correct about taking parts into consideration. The machines I restored typically have great parts availability either original or reproduction parts. If I overhaul a rare machine with scarce parts, I make it clear to the buyer that they are receiving a collectable machine and that future parts access is not to be assumed as far as we can practically predict into the future. (A good example of this would be the Bernina 117 models I have restored. I cannot say for other parts of the world, but in North America, parts for those are almost nil. Thank you for sharing your info.

[@Balkongodlaren]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Well, I repair other things also. Some of them have seen heavy use over time, some have not. I have a decent workshop and I'm used to making spare parts for machines that's had no spare parts available for over 100 years or so... but I've also come across many sewing machines with all steel transmission, only 50 years old, that's been heavily used and needs replacement of all gears, bearings and other parts as well, due to wear! As I said, all mechanical parts will wear out eventually, even if they are made of the finest steel, as long as they've been used. That statement was entirely out of my own experience, not out of spite! Of course, if you take an old machine that hasn't been used much and give it a simple cleanup you can claim that it's been "restored", but if you have an actual old machine that has been used and worn over the years, you have to replace bearings and gears to get it back to its original tolerances. If you don't do that, you may have given it a good "CLA", but you haven´t restored it. Which one are you, the serious repairman that replaces metal gears and bearings to restore the original tolerances of the machine, or the common "fixer" who gives it a quick Clean-Lube-Adjust, with a bit of heavier lube where the gears are worn, and pretends that's the same as a "restoration"? Of course neither is bad, as long as you're clear about it and the customer agrees with the solution, and (of course) you don´t present it on KZbin as a restoration if you only cleaned and lubed it as many do!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

I wish more consumers asked the same great questions that you do. A restoration or full overhaul of a vintage domestic sewing machine should, in just my opinion, be fully vetted with every system inspected and tested to ensure that the machine is back to its factory specs. When my machines are listed, I have a comprehensive list of items that I have checked, repaired, serviced, or otherwise replaced. A good example of this is motor bearings. Many vintage motors will continue to run even without making noise but they most always require an inspection of the bearings due to lack of service. I lubricate the bearings to ensure that the motor will last as long as possible. When restoring the Singer 201, the entire shuttle, hook, and race are removed for inspection/cleaning/lubrication. Some American Singer models with direct gear drives will require significant extra labor to bring those motors back to sound condition. While many of these procedures may go unnoticed or unappreciated by many people who simply want to sew on the machines, I want the machines to last as long as possible into the future and this is why I believe the hours should be invested to bring a machine back to full operating condition. For items such as gears, I have not had a machine (yet) that had drivetrain components that were so worn that the machine performed out of spec. (This does not count for timing adjustments). If that were the case, then a decision would have to be made by the customer as to whether they wish to invest in the substantially increased labor required for me to disassemble and replace those components. Most will not and so I will suggest another machine as a candidate for overhaul and the worn machine is saved for salvage parts. Fortunately, almost all of the machines that have crossed my work bench require a full restoration due to going very long periods without use. (Again, this is based on machines in North America). In whatever area you live, there may be a different level of use for home machines post WWII. Getting a long dormant machine to "wake up" requires a substantial investment in time and attention. This also applies to motor commutators which will still run, but poorly due to buildup of carbon/brush wear. I am glad you raised your question because some people will offer machines that they claim have had "Tune Ups" which means they might have cleaned off the feed dog area and or added sewing machine oil and called the machine fully gone thru, which as you know is not the case. As you know, even if a machine can form a proper stitch, it still can have underlying issues that can appear later if not addressed during the time of overhauling. Given the vast numbers of vintage domestic machines in the US and Canada, there is no business case here for replacing steel gears in a machine unless it is a very rare/collectible machine. The vast majority of machines I touch are not rare. If you have access and capacity for retooling or machining, that is fantastic. It would be curious to learn how much cost is a factor when you are deciding on whether to replace mechanical parts. And yes, I share your view on 1970's machines. There is a limit to how far you want to go with those models. I do appreciate your sharing of your own knowledge and experience. Thank you

[@Balkongodlaren]

It seems like you do quality restorations, and that you have an understanding and attention to detail beyond most people that claims to restore sewing machines! Do you find that you can charge enough per machine to cover the time that goes into restoring it so you get a decent pay out of this? And do you get many customers that are actually willing to buy a restored machine or pay for the time it takes to have their own machine properly restored? Here in Sweden it would be very rare to get someone to pay for a professional restoration, even if it's their beloved grandmothers machine that they learned to sew on, and so on... Making a living out of that kind of work would be nearly impossible! What you can charge for a restoration seems to depend heavily on what's on the market, and the second hand market is overflowing with old machines. Husqvarna CB (original Singer 15 clone) and older Singer 66 or 15 are hard to sell at any price. CB-N and model 12 (upgraded Singer 15 clones, comparable to the Japanese "HA-1" ones, but in general with better quality motors) usually goes for around 300 SEK. A later Singer 15, 201, 301 or even early zig-zag machines usually fetches a little bit more, but not much. Many machines are in good condition and would be lovely machines if restored, but they are in such low demand that you can't sell a restored one and get paid for the work. You would get paid for a quick fix of someones machine, but not for a decent restoration. Machines with all metal gears have almost no monetary value. If you're going to see any upside at all you need to go to the later Husqvarna 6000 chassis top models 6440, 6450, 6460 or 6570. You can get one of those nonworking for around 400 SEK, get one of the two plastic parts that usually break for 500 SEK, soften the dried up oil with a hair dryer, oil it up and sell it for 2500 SEK. If you work fast your figures can add up, but that's not a restoration. Doing a full restoration, which even those machines actually deserve, will sadly not pay. Not because of the other plastic parts in them, but they are more than a handful and takes a large amount of time to work on. Well known Singers, Pfaff, Bernina and Elna models with comparable capabilities are somewhat comparable in price, but less known brands are in almost no demand at all, regardless of how good they are! People want things that they are familiar with, or at least recognize, that's why advertising works. Little known sewing machines, even from well known brands, are almost impossible to sell, regardless of how good they objectively are! You get just over 9 SEK for 1 USD with today's exchange rate, by the way. Industrial and/or specialized sewing machines are of course on another market where condition is given a real value. I've repaired sewing machines since I was a kid, but I've never done it for a living. I "fix" things in my spare time as a hobby. A big part of that is collecting and restoring tools for my own use, and using those tools to restore other things that I collect, which usually happens to be more tools... I also collect other things, but I need tools to fix them too. The fixing is the interesting part, not really the collecting. Sewing machines are both nice things to collect and tools that I need. I prefer my tools to be of high quality, which is a good reason to buy old ones. They should have a nice feel to them. Machines should be able to run late at night without disturbing my neighbours or disrupting my own thoughts. Being in the workshop should be zen-like experience after a stressful day at work. Machine parts balanced to not cause vibration, tolerances on bearings and gears matching the thickness of the preferred lubricant to run smooth... My tools are not museum exhibits. If I need to exchange a plastic part for a metal one for durability I will, If I need to put a plastic gear in, instead of a metal one, to keep the machine quiet, I'm perfectly willing to do so too! If I can easily put a 3-phase motor and a VFD on a machine for soft start, smooth running and precise control, why wouldn't I do that? I usually wait for an opportunity to get cheap parts, preferably second hand. I have no hurry! That way cost is usually not a big factor when deciding to replace, for instance, a gear. Also, stock gears of good quality can be found and modified to fit any machine if you have a decent lathe. From time to time I do some volunteer work for historical associations where I'm a member, and I fix things for family and good friends. I've also done a bit of commission work, but it´s been rare and far between. In all those instances the one that foots the spare parts bill gets to decide what gets replaced, of course!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Wow. These are all great comments and you share my situation since I also do this work as a hobby and I find it very relaxing (and rewarding) when I am able to bring a vintage machine back from a long dormant state or when it is malfunctioning. And just as with you, I could not make a living doing this work. For many years, vintage machines here in North America did not garner much interest either. I started some years ago overhauling machines for their original owners some of whom were in their 90's !!!! They recalled how expensive their machines were when new and they understood the concept of maintenance which has sadly gone away over time with succeeding generations. So no, this is not my full time vocation. For one customer in particular, she had a Kenmore Rotary (White Made for Private Label Kenmore sold at retailer Sears) and it needed rewiring amongst other procedures. (Since she had the machine in continuous use since new, its overhaul was not as problematic as for machines that have sat dormant). For some reason, the power cord from the Knee control lever was built into the cabinet!!! Parts of the cabinet were permanently secured, but I noted some cabinet wood pieces had small tap nails that were designed to come out if needed. I ended up disassembling this portion of the cabinet to access the old cord and replace with new since she preferred to keep using the Kneel controller. This overhaul took much longer than originally planned and my fees did not cover the cost but I was determined to get the machine redone for her. When all was finished, she received the machine back and was sewing away and quite happy. She was just over 90 years old and had purchased the machine in the late 1940's just after the war. I felt that if she was so blessed to be able to see and sew at that age, she should have the machine that she loved back in a state where she could keep using it and not have to try out new machines which I consider inferior to the vintage models anyway. Your point about people's hesitancy to pay for restoration is also true here in North America, but the trends are showing a positive change/shift. Young people in their 20's and 30's are beginning (slowly) to reject modern disposable consumer items in favor of vintage ones. Some of this may be an interest in style, but I must say that I have had a number of these customers tell me they want quality. Not only do they want well made sewing machines (they are taking up the trend of "Maker Culture"), but they also want vintage home appliances like toasters and bicycles and others. (Even pots and pans!!) While this is a small subset of consumers, I have noted that the trend is gradually increasing. I have not worked on many Swedish machines because during the vintage years, Husqvarna was a smaller brand in the US and Canada. But they found a following here and its a much larger brand now. One of the challenges we have here with the Husqvarnas (Labeled "Viking" in the US) is that like most European imports, these machines were coated with some special lubricant to prevent oxidation from salt air on their voyage across the Atlantic. This protected them yes, but it creates an awfully strong glue to try to dissolve when taking them apart for work. I replaced a gear set in a Bernina 730 Record and never forgot what an arduous task it was. Replacing the gears was only a 45 minute procedure and not that much work. What made this so unpleasant and a financial loss for me time-wise was that it took 3 weeks of slow coaxing with heat and solvents to loosen the cemented (from the transport lubricant) parts in order to get access to the gears. I was very aware that using too much force too quickly could damage the machine's other mechanisms and so this may explain in part why I have a strong preference for steel components and a bias against plastic. Oh, there is one other group in North America that helps support this hobby and they range from hobbyist sewers such as boating enthusiasts who want something to repair/mend their sales/marine covers. They are wanting to do this because boat maintenance and marine sewing service here is outrageously priced. The other even more important group are quilters. People here who quilt are VERY devoted to their sewing rooms and most have multiple machines ranging from newer quilting arms to vintage favorites such as the Singer 221, Singer 301, and Singer 201 which are largely coveted for their Rotary shuttle. A fully restored Singer model such as these will sell in the range of $250-$550. My first customers were quilters and they taught me a lot of what a well formed stitch should look like. Your comments bring up some very good points about the semantics of what is tuning vs. restoration vs overhauling. The trend in autos here is to restore but with a lighter touch on some areas to preserve the history of use (patina) of the machine while restoring its mechanical function. It could be that the term reconditioning might be more appropriate so I'm glad you have got me thinking about the term. And I do hope that these new trends in young people wanting well made tools/machines increases and finds its way to Sweden and other places. Since we have fewer vintage Swedish machines here, I have overhauled less of them than other brands. But I have one favorite in particular that I gave a full overhaul to and it included its original (Beech Wood?) table which had an early 1960's Scandinavian Mod design. A lady purchased this from me after searching for one just like she had learned to sew on as a young girl. It was the Husqvarna "Viking" C1 Type 21 A with a 1.5 amp motor. It I understand correctly, the main head of the machine (not including its free arm) was one Monocoque piece of cast aluminum. As sewing machine industrial design goes, it was one of the most beautiful machines I have ever seen (aesthetics are purely subjective of course). And it sewed remarkable and very balanced decorative stitches as well. Husqvarna claimed that its bobbin case design made the machine "Thread jam proof". Do you know if that is true? Maybe it is. That machine is also less commonly found here because machines that are Convertible/Free Arm types were slow to become popular in North America back then and it was one of the few options for Free Arm machines here. Other choices were Elna, Bernina etc. but that Emerald Green C1 A was my favorite. I also restored the table for her and she was quite pleased with finding a machine that reminded her of her youth.

[@luanneedwards8846]

I have a older model that I can't find any info on...its still working..I think it's a 1940 machine it has a lite in front

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello luanne. What brand of machine do you have?

[@xopheoscarmike9458]

Hey, is there a typo in this part of the video description: "Kenmore 1977 Production continued with all steel components until 1976 which represented the last machines built before plastic substitutions"? Something else. You might want to tweak the category. It's currently 'Film & Animation'. I have no idea how KZbin ranks videos, but animation lovers might click 'not interested' which could downrate this one or even your channel. And since I'm already commenting, again... I'd love to hear your insights on how to estimate the condition and then negociate the price of a sewing machine with its seller. Any video of yours?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello and thank you for catching the typos. I will remedy that ASAP. As for the KZbin Category, I don't classify the videos like that, but I will need to check to see how/when KZbin categorizes them.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Your question on estimating machine condition is also very timely as I am working on a video for this for what I call "Hybrid Vintage Machines". But I should also make one for "Heirloom Quality" models as well. Thank you for the suggestion!

[@sharonpost8927]

Would a 1970-71 Bernina 730 be considered hybrid?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Sharon. Yes, it would be classified as Hybrid since by the mid 1960's at least and perhaps even earlier, Bernina started replacing SOME of their components with plastic. That does not mean those Berninas are not great machines, but I can speak as someone who has performed a gear replacement on a Bernina, the very high labor required makes this a very costly overhaul especially when the parts that must be removed for the actual gear replacing can be quite difficult to remove without causing damage. It only took me approx 45 min do make the actual gear swap. But getting things disassembled and unfrozen to get access to the broken gear made for a very labor intensive project. Also, because this is a European branded machine, when you can find the parts for it, they cost more. I believe I sold that Bernina for $450 and after all was complete, I lost money on the project given the vast hours it took. I'm not sure if I would ever take on another of those gear replacements, but if I did, my quote would be much higher given what I now know about the challenges involved. My customer was and is very happy with their machine. No wonder I love working on most Singers. They are a restorer's dream for ease of access to parts and logical service procedures (for most models).

[@Sewingmachineworkshop1]

🙂👍👍👍

[@whizartscustom5230]

Great explanation, and I would agree with you! I’m restoring my 1st heirloom vintage machine, and it has been a great deal more fun than I would have ever thought! It’s a Necchi BF Nova early 50’s. I won at an auction for $10! I do leather work, and will be using it for that. Thanks for all you great videos!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Congrats on the Necchi. They are incredible tools for sewing. With leather tipped needles, you should be able to sew garment weight leathers fine.

[@Ho1yhe11]

Why not replace plastic covers and such with aluminium mold castings and plastic gears with steel ones (should be easy to get a machinist to make them for you based off originals)

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

That would be wonderful if only it were that easy. Keep in mind that machining metal parts would be prohibitively expensive. Plastic can be made via 3D printing, but even that would cost more than most people are willing to pay. The gears are most crucial to get in metal. Your idea might take off if all metal "Heirloom Quality" machines were rare. But they are not in short supply. I will make a video soon on how to maintain machines like the Brother model in this video. "Waste Not, Want Not" as they say.

[@Ho1yhe11]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I'm just saying if they want it made heirloom quality it can be done fairly readily but yes it can be pricey depending on what the gear type is If it is just small triangular spur gears you could likely convert an old sewing machine to make them Cycloidal or involute spur gears could be more complex but still possible in a home shop with fly cutters (or D-bits) if necessary Helical gears would get too complicated for a lot of people who are not machinists though Casting on the other hand can be done very easily with little more than a box of oil sand (or some other media like clay or silicon), the original part, a bunch of aluminium cans, a propane torch, and a crucible.

[@zeusincoming282]

I love Sewing Machines made between 1958 and 1985. Machines made before that all looked alike. If you seen one old chunk of metal Singer, youve seen them all!

[@robertbee9776]

Plastic means crap and you will have to flush your money down the crapper.