Defroster cable tab repair for Jeep Wrangler (OEM Solder Method) Jk/JL

Turns out its actually best not to sand the area first, I believe doing so might remove the micro texture needed for the solder to stick. Also if it's cold out you may need to hold the soldering gun for longer to get the solder layer against the glass to melt too.

[@rowinguy]

Turns out its actually best not to sand the area first I believe doing so might remove the micro texture needed for the solder to stick. Also if it's cold out you may need to hold the soldering gun for longer to get the solder layer against the glass to melt too.

[@AdventuresofGraywolf]

Best way to get solder to stick is to use solder flux on both the glass and the button. Makes it super easy and you don't risk having a cold solder joint as long as you keep it perfectly still until it solidifies completely

[@CharlesMartel676]

Just fixed my 2011 JKU after watching this video. THANK YOU!!!!! The only suggestion I might add is to use a little flux on the window before soldering. The whole repair took about 10 minutes!

[@buzz25]

Thank you. Once I popped the button out of the holder, the rest was easy. I cleaned both sides with a little flux. Then I tinned the defogger contact. With double sided tape I attached the button to the end of a chopstick. Put a dab of solder on the button and let it cool. Then I pressed it in place with the chopstick touched the iron to the side of the button.

[@robertbone7024]

Worked like a charm

[@andrukat]

This helped me out a lot, thanks for sharing.

[@rowinguy]

No problem! Have you done it yet? Turns out its actually best not to sand the area first I believe doing so might remove the micro texture needed for the solder to stick. Also if it's cold out you may need to hold the soldering gun for longer to get the solder against the glass to melt too.

[@mehsha20]

Best method. Thanks

[@MichaelLove83]

This is what I need to do to mine. A good amount of flux is your friend when doing this. It will help bond and flow the solder. Permatex is hard to get in the UK without paying a lot of dollars.

[@TechNWRO]

I went through that drop, drop thing several times when I soldered mine back on

[@EarlBalentine]

Good job.

[@genepoon8905]

Might work on a Jeep or other Chrysler and I was successful doing this on an earlier Mercury wagon; but on my current Ford, the surface to which I was trying to solder was so thin and fragile that the heat from the soldering iron evaporated it.

[@dylanmaki2482]

Best not to use a big multi tool to hold the button while soldering, it took longer because you’re heating up both the multi tool and the button enough to melt the solder. Great video though, thanks for the info.

[@rowinguy]

Thanks for the tip

[@noaht5191]

So um what to hold the button up with?

[@zendell37]

​@@noaht5191Something insulative. So a couple chopsticks with rubber bands to hold it in place...a scrap piece of wood...some pliers with silicone jaw covers.

[@richardmiller3808]

Good video. However my jeep is under warranty and with my luck if I try to solder it myself I’d end up breaking the back glass so off to the dealership it goes 😁

[@horment]

😁👍 works

[@miken9484]

The exact same thing happened to my JL. I need to do this.

[@rowinguy]

Depending how old it is you might be able to get it replaced at the dealer for free.

[@sQriLLah]

Doing the same right now on my JL right side

[@SuspectBeatle65]

I was trying to do the same thing and the tab seemed to never heat up.

[@TheGreatBrownBoy]

i didnt need any extra solder. Also i didnt sand the area i just simply soldered it back into place zero issues. With some needle nose tweezers and a simple solder gun i melted the back solder and stuck it on there and heated it up for 20 seconds and let go and its stong as before.

[@rowinguy]

Glad to hear it worked well for you.

[@robertoromero1392]

What type of solder did you use? Tried 3 types of solder and still doesn't stay on the window. Could it be the window material is to thin because of the sanding?

[@rowinguy]

I used silver solder. Some flux may help too. I was using a 260 watt soldering gun. If yours is weaker you may need more time for the solder to properly melt into the layer on the glass. Also see my pinned comment regarding the sanding.

[@jaysgood10]

Using a Leatherman ehh? Anyway holding that button with anything metal is going to suck the heat away and cause a poor solder joint.

[@adotsloan]

Suggestion for alternative handling?

[@eegg6954]

The tip of a pointy awl. Or the end of an unfolded paper clip if it doesn't get too hot. You don't want to suck the heat away with anything to massive or you won't heat it fast enough. @@adotsloan

[@Left0verCuRry]

should have just used permatex defogger adhesive

[@rowinguy]

Thought about it. Read alot about that stuff not holding well, especially if it's cold out.

[@thomasmcguire2562]

Even after kneading for 5 minutes the permeated didn’t conduct electricity to the defroster! Have 12v on back of tabs & defroster has continuity of electricity

[@mauropiccininni6251]

One word “flux”

[@rowinguy]

Yes I've heard that!

[@mikethompson2007]

"Thermal shock" Its tempered glass...

[@TomcatJones]

Tell that to my Jeeps windshield that broke from defrosting lol

[@mikethompson2007]

@@TomcatJones there was a chip or crack first....

[@TomcatJones]

@@mikethompson2007 you think this guys rear windshield is perfect from any? Of course not. so telling people to be mindful of not putting to much heat in one spot to stop the glass from breaking is a great mindful thing to say.

[@mikethompson2007]

What is " perfect from any"???🤔🤔

[@TomcatJones]

@@mikethompson2007 perfect from any chips or cracks.