Delta 36-725 Table Saw Zero Clearance Insert

This is a detailed step by step video on making a custom zero clearance insert for a Delta 36-725 Table Saw.
This process can be done for any table saw in most cases, just adjust for your setup and plate fit.
If you have any questions, please leave a comment or message me directly.
Overview of the base, outfeed table and dust collection here: • Delta 36-725 Mobile Ba...

[@williamwasp2550]

Hi John, I have been trolling the woodworking videos til I found this video. I refurbished a rusted, missing parts Delta 36-600 table saw recently. I got it for $100 and it now looks great. However, when I started to try and make a 0 clearance insert for it, the recess around the entire edge had me stuck until now. Watching this video showed me the way. Thank you so very much!

[@MISTdesigns88]

Great video. Been needing to make a few myself now I actually have the motivation to go tackle it 😂

[@mhflm]

Fantastic job. This has encouraged me to follow your directions and build my own insert plate for my Delta. I think I will add at least one more plate for the dado blades. Thanks.

[@RBWWoodworking]

Glad it helped. This saw has a unique plate design, makes it different than most other saws I have seen

[@MJCPeters]

Thanks for this. When deciding which saw to buy, the one thing I didn't like about the Delta was the Thin Insert. I bought the saw anyway (best saw for my budget) and planned to make my own inserts. I appreciate you showing me how to go about it. I'd like to share a tip from Stumpy Nubs Workshop for leveling it without the screws, (or electrical tape) He put dabs of Hot Glue on the bottom of the insert, pressed it into place and held it till the glue set. After removing it you have little rubbery feet that are the exact height to level the insert. Thanks again

[@RBWWoodworking]

Yah, i like the Hot Glue option and will likely do that.. I probably watched the same video and thought about that too. The tape was all i had at the time. I would recommend the hot glue method over a few layers of tape.

[@johnslaughter5475]

I have the same saw and made my insert roughly the same way using 1/2" baltic birch. However, it doesn't have a splitter. I watched the same Stumpy Nubs video mentioned below and I agree with James - put a splitter in. It's not that much more work for the extra safety it gives. Thanks for the idea on the forstner bits. I need to make more for dado blade setups and for bevel cuts.

[@bobheatwole804]

I have a Dayton 4kxd1 with a very similar insert configuration and one improvement I made was to add two #6 flat head screws. One in the back on the radiused area and one dead center in the front and I slowly back then out until I get that gentle "snap in" feel. I found no matter how close I make the fit it allways loosens a little. Moisture, temperature or a little wear. With the screws all I have to do is back them out a hair and its snapped back in.

[@chriswells1741]

Steve, if I understand correctly, you are worried about the scale being off on your fence measurement when you change blades. You know that you can adjust the sight glass on the fence to re-zero when you change blades. I do it all the time. All you need is a spacer or a known width.

[@RobinDavis1222]

Would like to see more of your out feed table. I have the same saw

[@RBWWoodworking]

Yah, I can record some footage of it this weekend and get one together. I'll try to find the comment and respond when it is done.

[@RBWWoodworking]

Robin, for you and a few others. Here is a new video that I just uploaded that goes through the mobile base, outfeed table and dust collection to date ( needs some work still ) kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJXNk6yZaMl0brs

[@SilentDeath002]

at 9:17 on your video timer you can see the zero insert shift to your left. just something i noticed and you might want to check it out.

[@sdspivey]

I bought my saw on the same day you posted, total coincidence. I will be doing this ASAP. So far, the only thing I don't like about this saw is the huge gap on the one side of the blade and the fact that with any dado or other thicker blades, I can't use the ruler measure with the fence on the right (longer fence rail side).

[@RBWWoodworking]

Yah, i had the same concerns, but I rarely use dado blades. I stick with a thin kerf ( original size it comes with ), or full kerf. for dados that I rarely do, I use a full kerf flat tooth blade... which I use for my box joints with my box joint jig ( might do a video on that if I get time... which is limited )

[@jimd714]

Do you lengthen the slot for the riving knife? I think that's a necessary safety device.

[@daviddove2532]

Good video. I did mine almost the exact way. I made a template out of MDF when I got the fit I wanted. Now I can take a flush trim bit and make a blank. I am curious how you mounted your out feed table?

[@RBWWoodworking]

Hey David, here yah go as requested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJXNk6yZaMl0brs , overview of the base, outfeed table and dust collection. close up on the mounting of the table that should help you. see description for link to Laney's detailed video series on the build of the folding table.

[@MrSjf5068]

Can you do a video on your table/base for the saw? I've got the same saw, been debating whether or not to remove the rolling base and making a cabinet for it. I've already replaced the right wing with a router table extension

[@RBWWoodworking]

Yah, I can record some footage of it this weekend and get one together. I'll try to find the comment and respond when it is done.

[@MrSjf5068]

@@RBWWoodworking awesome thanks man!

[@RBWWoodworking]

Steve, as requested: Here is a new video that I just uploaded that goes through the mobile base, outfeed table and dust collection to date ( needs some work still ) kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJXNk6yZaMl0brs

[@jameshorrocks2939]

Nice work

[@TheNATE8599]

I have the same tablesaw and just made another several inserts one with a built in splitter / riving knife, enjoyed your video, will be posting one soon on how I increased the dust collection on mine as I tried several different things over the last few years, what do you do for collection on your tablesaw.

[@RBWWoodworking]

I had issues with dust collection too and tried a few things. what I do now is still use the factory dust port ( blue thing ), attached a 2" hose direct to that, then to a 4" port that I connect my dust collector directly to. I still get dust on top, but the best I can get. I used to use a shop vac on the dust port ( with a small thein baffle ) which worked well too.

[@RBWWoodworking]

Hey Kilts... here is a new video that I just uploaded that goes through the mobile base, outfeed table and dust collection to date ( needs some work still ) kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJXNk6yZaMl0brs

[@talltimberswoodshop7552]

If your zero clearance insert has seen better days, tape off the top of the insert and pour epoxy onto the underside, filling the slot completely. Recut the slot and it's as good as new.

[@metro6028]

should make them available for sale :)

[@miguelangel19801000]

Hi, I just bought this saw, but when cutting 3-inch wood, the engine lacks power, is that normal? Or is it the type of cutting disc?

[@RBWWoodworking]

I am able to cut through 3 inch hard maple and the end grain cutting boards easily, cross cut and rip... but I have a new or newly sharpened blade. and I do go slow. it barely bogs down and cuts normal. i would try a new blade first. Ripping blade or combination / cross cut blade makes a BIG difference as well. I honestly use a combination freud blade most of the time for both cross cut and rip cuts. and... very sharp. i have 6 that i swap often and have re-sharpened. It is only a 120v - 13amp motor and not a 220v saw. cutting full height on the blade hardware is at the limit, so go slow. I have not had any issues with sharp blades.

[@superchile9640]

Why didn't you just make the same holes to adjust the set screws in the new plates?

[@RBWWoodworking]

I had thought of that, but the thickness would have to be close to or less than 1/8 of an inch. I didn't think it would hold up if it was wood only. Once you have it adjusted, it works very well.

[@jasonoshita4441]

Hey man, awesome work. Could I buy one or two off ya?

[@RBWWoodworking]

Thanks. I might make some to sell when I get some time, but it might be a while. I am working on a big batch of cutting boards and coasters. send me an email through the about section on my channel and I will email you first when I get time to make some.

[@jeffoldham3466]

how do you get the lip to work,,its not but 10 thousands,,,very easy to break

[@RBWWoodworking]

it's about 1/8 of an inch or so, I don't use the screws, it that is the lip you are referring to.

[@jimfeaster4837]

Is this saw belt drive ?

[@RBWWoodworking]

Yes, it is a belt drive, but it's a really small one. it's basically a hybrid where you have a small drive belt and the motor is mounted below the arbor and compacted within the cabinet. I have not attempted servicing it yet, getting to the belt looks like a lot of work IMHO

[@shermanjones1417]

somebody needs a jigsaw...

[@LordPadriac]

The problem with this design is that you cannot use the riving knife making this unsafe. There are no good solutions for a zero clearance insert for this saw. The "blade guard" is a ludicrous thing that I've never bothered installing on mine but the riving knife is critical to preventing kickback and other binding issues. The problem with any zero clearance insert for this saw is that there isn't one from the manufacturer. Because there isn't one from the manufacturer we are forced to try and make one. That leads to one of two types: 1) The unsafe version like this or 2) A weaker version where you extend the saw kerf to the back with a jig saw or band saw or whatever to the back edge of the kerf which tends to leave the back edge a little hinky.

[@RBWWoodworking]

yes, i agree with everything you say. there is no good solution. kick back is always a concern... if there is a chance, i do switch back to stock insert and install the riving knife. depends on the cut, wood and situation. for this insert, i am going to look at the kreg splitter... maybe in a video, when i have the time,

[@busared06]

Wanna sell a couple? Just bought my 36-725

[@workshopetech]

Same here! I have a CNC router so may try to get it to do the hard work.

[@RBWWoodworking]

Actually.... I will have extra. I am working on making about 20 more of them with a template ( and a new video too ). I am working on a new kitchen table as well, so give me a few weeks at least and I'll get back to you.

[@busared06]

@@RBWWoodworking Amazing!!! I pick it up tomorrow. Got it for only $300! And it's in incredible shape.

[@misfit4777]

What bit is the black one you used in the makeshift router table?

[@iteach0121]

Contrary to the tool reviews the Delta 35-725T2 is junk. The motor is garbage and the capacitors don't work. Out if the box if didn't work so I had to take it to a service center to be repaired. Would not recommended purchasing the saw unless you plan on having it in the shop for repairs. Out of the box it didn't work.

[@RBWWoodworking]

It definitely is not the best saw. I did go through 2 of them. Out of box and within a few months . Motor blew. However, this one is now 4 years in and good so far. For the price, it’s ok. If you want a better saw, spend more is all.