Dent Repair, Metal Bumping & Shrinking with a Wolfes Metal Fabrication "Easy Shrink"™ Shrinking Disc

[@williamjarman7466]

Most people think that KZbin videos need to be released short but this type of video benefits from being a little or a lot longer thank you

[@Foryourinfo369]

My buddy owns a very successful hot rod shop and I'm sick of him trash talking my sheetmetal work. Your video is helping me immensely! Lol

[@golowdodge]

It's hard to make a decent dent repair video but you smashed it! Thank you for your knowledge.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

You are right and it takes a lot more time than a person would think to put it together especially when making videos is not one of my strong suits. Thanks for the kind comments I greatly appreciate it.

[@peterrivney552]

Doing a great job not many masters left anymore... Myself I started in the mid. '70's working with a master ... Teaching me how to paddle lead and pick & file with hammer & dolly... The guide coat really helps showing the lows on the Camara as well...

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Yes, that is why i did it. It is hard to show in a video what you actually see and feel in person.

[@VanishingNomad]

On the "On dolly" method, it only stretches if you hit hard. Very light tapps walk the highs down sooth and easy. Over all, however, you did a really good job with a successful method.

[@jimbolee72]

Best video I've seen on metal working! And I've watched a bunch. Thanks for all the detail and talking it out. Like the location of the dolly and difference in hammer on and off dolly. NONE of the guys in other videos tell the location of the dolly and the reason why. Thanks, you just taught me a lot!

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Thank you very much, i appreciate your kind comments! Your very welcome, it took me quite awhile to put it all together, because i wanted to make sure i was covering as much as possible and not missing any important parts. Some of the simplest tips are the greatest help and time savers. Brian Wolfe

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Your welcome! I was trying to display as much as I could as they are all important aspects and some may not know or don't think about mentioning things.

[@josindee91]

Great job nice explanation

[@relevantnoise25]

thanks! this is a great video! love my wolfes shrinking disc. i replaced an entire 1/4 on a 36 ford, and i was having a hard time sorting out the high and low spots.the off-dolly info is priceless!

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

You are very welcome! I am glad you learned some tricks from the video. Thanks for taking the time to share, as customers feedback and success is much more meaningful for others new to the tool than taking my word for it. Brian Wolfe

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Excellent! I am glad you like it, it is a very Useful tool. You're very welcome the on and off dolly information does not always get shared but is very valuable. :-)

[@mdogg1604]

Very informative! Love the way you show the transformation from damaged metal to straightened metal at the end of the vid!

[@nickfree46]

That is true craftsman ship the old way, today a couple of bangs, run over with the grinder. It was a pleasure to watch and classics for sure is youre forte dont waste your talent.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Thank you very much I appreciate your kind words. I do enjoy working on them allot, although sanding tends to get old sometimes. It is nice when somebody sees the value in this type of work as not everybody understands that and is willing to pay for the time that it takes to do it the right way, how I like to do it.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Since making this video, I have also added a smaller 3 inch disc that is very handy for tight areas and the backside of hoods, trunklids, etc that have had sandblasting stretch damage in between the bracing. So currently our main kits are the SD3Kit, SD4Kit and SD9Kit.

[@jordanscheiner7400]

I recently received your product. It worked great. I did notice that it began to burr even after the first hour or so of use. Is normal? Am I doing something wrong?

[@Lugnutz65]

I'm impressed! Excellent walkthrough of how effective it really is. Great!

[@jwo388]

Thanks for taking the time to make this. I now have a much clearer idea of how the method of shrinking works. I have tried various methods but missed the theory behind it.

[@xXavikingXx]

I am working on a 1965 mustang fastback and welded in a new rear quarter panel and have some heat distortion. I jumped around on the panel only stitch welding a max of 5 to 6 welds at a time and still got some distortion. This video has helped me understand the concept of shrinking and stretching metal. While I don't expect to get as good as a result as you do I am hopeful I can go from a warped panel to a good enough panel that doesn't need a gallon of bondo to fix. Thanks for the great video.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

When welding, even if you are careful, you will get distortion, it just depends how much, because the heat affected zone heats and cools, it shrinks unavoidably. If it is possible to hammer and dolly your weld zone to re stretch it and then use the shrinking disc to fine tune and blend it in, you can get an almost invisible seam if you had good panel fit up.

[@wilecatrexy]

You are a true Craftsman.

[@tomappleby370]

Great video...it's good to see there are still true craftsman around in the body repair business. Bondo has replaced patience, technique and the hammer and dolly.

[@danielb2145]

That's a big thumbs up, thanks you're a master, I don't like using too much body filler, and this is perfect.

[@TheRoguelement]

Brian ...Back when I started in the Auto-body repair business you could certainly shrink high spots down or take the warp out of welded panels . but sadly those day's have been long gone for many years ..today's body panel you simply replace . just touching one with a mig welder blow's hole's right thru aside from being a much lighter gauge of body metal the quality of today's Sub frame material is also crap . I so love having the opportunity to work on anything from the early 70s back . Your blessed to have a car like the 41 to work on ..

[@markman63]

Michael Laverty On the upside today’s thinner metals on cars allow the pdr guys do some nice work with manipulating metal

[@nitrosavy]

Really enjoyed watching your vid, very informative, very well explained steps resulting in a great job, thanks for posting.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Your very welcome!

[@kensendelofski3761]

excellent. explained everything. really helps a beginner like me. hope to see more videos. Thanks

[@thebrisbanebennetts]

Great video mate. Really impressed with the detail shown, thanks so much for sharing. Tim.

[@midnighttutor]

Great presentation. Do you think that a shrinking disk could help with a butt weld that got uneven with no backside access to the panel? Thank you

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Yes it could. Backside access always helps, but the shrinking disc will help regardless.

[@Big-Foot-Randy]

Just ordered your 9” disc and backer - what RPM is best for this disc? I appreciate your videos!

[@migueltabares7912]

This video just open my eyes,. THANK YOU....

[@06131942]

There are a lot of videos on here on body work , but you sir are a CRAFTSMAN Frank T

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Thank you very much!

[@nitro914]

HaHa did you drive your snowmobile? Thanks for the great metal work. I could never do that kind of work.

[@guillermonieri4203]

Great lesson. Thank you.

[@tmaretzki]

Found your video off the Eastwood site because I googled ‘shrinking disc’. Thanks so much for posting this and taking the time to record it. I just ordered the ‘Keys to Bumping Metal’ book and curious if the methods you use here are similar? Obviously not the shrinking disc, but your dolly work. Also, I’ve got a ‘67 Beetle the owner I purchased from took an axe to, so the dents are pretty severe. At what point do you cut and patch vs banging it out? The metal is good, just really creased. I have a donor ‘64 shell.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

I am not sure, as i have not read that book. Patching vs smoothing it out depends on your confidence and abilities. Whichever you think you can end up with a better end result would be the method i would choose.

[@speedy_pit_stop]

Not cutting corners here for sure.

[@deweydodo6691]

What do you do if no dolly can be used in back of sheet metal while on the vehicle ?

[@peterrivney552]

Try a spoon or pry bar with a whale tail on the end or sometimes might have to open our the back and re weld again extra work but do the thinking first... Take more time one way or more time the other way... That is a very good question ...👍 I like watching other masters as well becouse in the bodyman / painters trade you are never to old to learn a new trick...

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Thank you for jumping in and helping!

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

peter had a good response, it isn't always easy, and you have to weigh your options.

[@TheRaulr151]

so I wonder. Is it easier to do this or just cut it out and replace from a panel section you can get and butt weld? after so many passes and still not "perfect" thinking cutting out might be better.

[@leoestrada5624]

Good Man👍👍👍

[@guillermonieri4203]

Great lesson!

[@brkooduh66]

i have a door skin that is stretched from a crease i removed. i used a torch method to shrink it back but i can't quite get it all the way there. i can see how this disc may help, i am considering it. thanks for video.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Your very welcome! Yes, i think the shrinking discs will help you fix your problem. They work so much better than the torch in the majority of situations.

[@moon-lit-rider987]

Again great craftsmanship, thanks for your time & effort on this video ✨👍

[@ronjohnson2693]

Dear Brian, Hi I have a 1995 buick century and I have put 1999 Cadillac door handles on it . When I did it , the panels warped up to 1/4 inch. This was my first project so I have learned alot since I did it . Now I want to correct the warp and get it within 1/8 or less. Do you have any advise to help me correct these door panels?

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Ron Johnson well it would be easier if I could see at least some pictures but what you probably need to do is get access to the back side and use your hammer on Dolly and restretch your weld Zone because that is where it shrank and once you get that stretched back out then you could use the shrinking disc to fine-tune level and smooth it out.

[@ronjohnson2693]

Hi I have bondoed it already and I do not have access to the back side of the doors very easly. I want to remove the bondo and fix it that is why i am asking your advise. i am also looking into getting new to me doors and putting the door handles in them instead. I would however like to keep the original doors on the car

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Ron Johnson well that is probably the best advice I can give you without seeing it or doing it myself. :-)

[@dougthomas7622]

Great video. thanks for the tips!

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Thanks! Your very welcome!

[@andrewwilson8317]

Have you done a video of using disc on an alloy panel? Getting more and more alloy bodies cars with damage coming into shop.

[@andrewwilson8317]

Guess no then...... does not work on alloy. Alloy fuses to the disc and it tears the surface up. Disc best kept to steel only.

[@markaraujo06]

you can hammer inside out too you know.not just outside in all the time. do both sides.that makes it easy & more perfect. i have done it.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Yes of course you can, if you have good backside access.

[@mtngoat58]

great info -----thanks I can do this now

[@motoputz3201]

nice job man ...thanks

[@badad0166]

How do you know when you are done? (smiley face) Others mention a glove or something magnifies sensation of imperfections.

[@peterrivney552]

Myself I got used to had feeling rag or glove for beginners helps them but doing it enough hand I'd best same for taking off a car I use the rag on paper etc. Then was hands a blow off with air from paint gun and clean hand before I paint. Also wrap chain on axel to ground to kill static electricity that will collect dust on car.. I just do odd job now of days getting old is not much fun but the work is. Mostly the end result...

[@KILLERWATT13]

Would this work for panels warped from fire damage? Some people are telling me that the "memory" of them metal is gone and can't be bumped or shrunk.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

You can stretch and shrink it, its just a matter of how bad is the damage and are you willing to put in the time. On a normal repair, you only have 1 damaged section that you have to read, act, re read and adjust your repair. On extensive fire damage, you do not have any good metal that is wanting to keep its shape (memory some may call it) to help in getting the rest of it back. It could prove difficult for an experienced metalworker, but not impossible. Just depends how bad it is and if its worth it to you, or if its a hobby, and you have nothing better to do. If you have pictures, you can send me some via email, and I can do my best to give you recommendations. If some of the larger low crown panels (roof, hood, doors, quarter panels, etc) would be fairly easy to make and you have the ability or know someone who does, or are available as reproductions or used parts, you could possible look at that as another option, as those will be the toughest to repair. The more crowned or multibend panels, like say firewall, or highly curved fenders, cowl, rear valance, etc have bends or crown to help hold the shape as you work them. I think the term memory gets used too much sometimes without a better explanation of why its called that. It is difficult to explain, and my response is already to long, so enough for now. :)

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Depends on how bad the damage is as you may have more heat in some areas and less in others making it very difficult as it might not have any original shape and tension left in it. Not saying that it cannot be done, but it may be fairly difficult depending on the extent of the damage.

[@kiefferdavis3784]

Metal-work is a " ART " IMHO.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Yes, when done right it sure can be.

[@deputydodge5083]

So what was the actual time spent on this section of the panel. thanx

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

If I recall correctly, I think it took about 2 - 2 1/2 hours including some time spent on the filming.

[@deputydodge5083]

thanks

[@MrMurph111]

Wolfesmetalfab 2.5 hours??? That's nothing compared to the time spent trying to fill that whole area with body filler and fanning it back into the rest of the panel. NICE JOB!!! I really like the idea of fixing the metal as much as possible, then using as little body filler to really finish it off.

[@deputydodge5083]

MrMurph111 Thanks for the response ,I agree with you if it can be worked out as much as possible the results are worth the work . They say a 1/4'' of filler is acceptable I say more patience with the hammer (or) disc in this case the better the result . Great work and video. thanks again

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

MrMurph111 Thank You! That is how i like to do it if at all possible. Depending on the extent of the repairs or damage sometimes it does take awhile, but as you mention, it does take a decent amount of time and material as well if you have to use alot of filler. It makes for a much better, longer lasting repair the less you have to use in my opinion.

[@tomthompson7400]

this could be the definitive metal shrinking disk video ,,, in real life how long would that whole repair have taken

[@rubenvela3530]

Great information thanks. Love the Christian music

[@serchmarc]

hello!! whats the name of the blue paint or a product variation to use here in latinamerica

[@jeffo881]

Dykem is the blue dye that he used.

[@jeffo881]

and I'm so glad that he did use it, it made it much easier to see what was going on, I'm gonna try this

[@serchmarc]

@@jeffo881 ii dont think is a simple marker....

[@MisterFuturtastic]

Did you say you used body filler in one section of the panel and led in another?

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

No, I do not think so. We do not use lead. If I recall correctly, I was probably talking about some of the lead that I was removing and that there will be some filler used by the seam and top lip.

[@MisterFuturtastic]

Why don't you guys use lead? I got the impression it was better than using body filler from another expert.

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

MisterFuturtastic Every Expert will have their own right and wrong way opinions. I am not an expert by any means, I continue to learn everyday, but I can tell you what I think. In my opinion, right or wrong, Lead can have much more of an impact on you, health wise, and be difficult and costly (in time and material) to apply and shape as you have to be careful as well when introducing heat to a panel to prevent unwanted warpage while melting the lead in, although I have minimal experience working with it. Good quality modern body fillers of today are much improved in composition then old or low quality fillers and are quick and easy to work with, and have shown to survive the tests of time if used within the recommended thicknesses, which should be used as minimally as possible anyways, as even if you aren't "Metal Finishing" it, you should be able to get it pretty close. If you can get a panel pretty close to begin with the polyester high build primers will fill small imperfections and sand just like primer being another and possibly even better option as well. I am not against using it if you or the "Expert" thinks that it is better. There is more than 1 right way to do it.

[@MisterFuturtastic]

Wolfesmetalfab Thanks for the response. I didn't mean to imply you weren't an expert too. I just meant someone else who seemed knowledgeable as well. This person said when you use lead you would never want to use a body filler again but I know how opinions can vary. I just wanted to hear different viewpoints so thanks.

[@peterrivney552]

@@Wolfesmetalfab I agree with you 100% on the lead working I did my share as well still have a few bars in the garage and two paddles haven't touched them for years last thing I leaded was a bike tank didn't need much but not healthy ...

[@AC-tr9tt]

Спасибо за видео.!! из чего этот диск

[@johnpowell7222]

where do you pick up shrining discs at?

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

You can get them on our website. www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com

[@craiglacour8887]

all metal body filler is faster but like the guy said if you like doing lead every body is different but most guys use all metal now days

[@bogiewheelman71]

Its not that easy though if the panels are double walled ( back of cabs )

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

That will make it more difficult. You can always cut out the inner structure, and then weld it back in place when done.

[@carmac1652]

My Friend pete Says you are doing it Rong . you need bondo 😁

[@3goallead]

Looks like Darth Vader

[@vitaliyiegorov615]

Great job. See my video , your opinion matters for me.

[@realistmw]

Slap some bondo and call it a day

[@fatasdat]

and for the record. you arent using this properly or for its intended use... its meant to take down highspots when your panel starts oil canning.. not take out highspots that were left due to poor quality workmanship. lol

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

Were did you learn its intended use from? Our "Easy Shrink" shrinking discs are capable of much more than just that one purpose. Have you used a shrinking disc before or tried using it for other repairs besides oil canning? It does not have to be used only for oil canning, that would be wasteful as it is a wonderful tool that can be used for much more than that. It can be used for shrinking overstretched areas from initial damage or overworking from previous repairs, blending, smoothing, removing sandblasting stretch warpage, reducing excessive crown and also along with a hammer and dolly when welding in a patch panel to make an almost invisible patch, as well as much more. If you have or want to make a video showing your "proper method" and share it with some of your finished results, we would love to see it.

[@MField-mq9oq]

Fatasdat- You are a typical armchair Troll. I'm glad you made such a stupid comment for the world to read. It shows how little you know about fabrication, and proves how little intelligence you as person possess. And yes, please bless us with a your own video showcasing your extensive knowledge. Post it up here in the comments so we don't miss it. We'll be waiting.

[@fatasdat]

who taught you how to "repair" leaves alot to be desired.. lol

[@Wolfesmetalfab]

I am self taught. If you have something positive to add for the benefit of the rest of the audience, feel free to share.