No heating? Check the motorised valve.

[@smithleon]

NEVER think that these videos are boring. They are massively useful! Great job.

[@dereton33]

Thanks Leon.

[@theoddjobcentre6686]

​@@dereton33our radiators get absolutely scalding hot when on domestic hot water heating but not as hot on heating

[@johnroberts8]

Really useful. The early part explaining how to manually open with the lever has kept us warm whilst the new motor was getting delivered. Thank you.

[@dereton33]

You're welcome!

[@nick4985]

Thanks for this - you saved me more than a few pennies ! Nice and clear explanation and easy to follow. Thankyou for taking the trouble for taking the trouble from the trouble !

[@dereton33]

You're very welcome! Thanks Nick.

[@ryantaylor6702]

Thank you so much for this video it has been extremely helpful I've been living in a new flat and struggling with the central heating running all summer just to get hot water. I complained to the letting agent, who promptly told me that I was incorrect saying it was the motorised valve, and told me to use the immersion heating rather. Got hit with a 600 euro bill this month. But now I know I am correct and am going to stick the bill right to the letting agent and tell them to get a plumber in here asap.

[@dereton33]

You got this!

[@mac7608]

From the start of your video I knew I would get my heating to work, you have that look of wisdom about you. July gone I had a Google Nest installed heating was working fine when tested but hadn't used it since then - called the tech that installed the unit, he did mention the valve might be stuck closed but failed to mention there was a manual override on the bottom, I couldn't see that part as it's in the boiler cupboard back to front hidden by pipework….not sure how they installed it! after a few burns to my hands and arms I managed find it and got the valve to stay open manually, there is resistance on the lever so I'm hoping I don't have to change it when it's back to auto mode, right now though I need to heat the house as its an ice box. You possibly saved me £200 quoted from the tech, as it seems an easy fix, can't thank you enough maybe I can buy an ice cold beer for you one day!🍻👍

[@dereton33]

Great you have your heating back, well if I ever bump into you in a pub in Dawlish mines a John Smiths, ha ha.

[@markjones2326]

I was about to change the pump until I saw this video. You've saved me a lot of time and money. New valve head fitted and everything ticking over perfectly again. Thank you.

[@dereton33]

Great to hear!

[@brianjohnson217]

Thank you very much for explaining how to check the motorised valve on a CH system. I knew roughly how the system works BUT didn't know that you can remove the motor from the valve to check to see if the motor is working.

[@dereton33]

No problem.

[@wtc175]

Thanks SO much for taking the time to pass your knowledge to us homeowners. Really useful!!

[@dereton33]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Panpan1568]

I'm a relatively experienced DIY plumber and found this very helpful, thank you.

[@dereton33]

Very welcome

[@pb9926]

Great video Al 👍 Just a note to folks : the older Honeywell valves you can't remove the head completely - otherwise you'll get very wet. You can tell which one you have as the older one has four inner screws to remove and no dimples on the top cover, the newer version has two screws and dimples in the top cover 👍

[@dereton33]

Thanks for the info PB.

[@NickBrown22230]

@@dereton33 Hi Al I have an issue where as soon as the boiler is powered up (ON-OFF Switch) the pump strikes up on the circuit, basically permanently on. Have you got any idea why this could be? HW is working fine, both activating and deactivating on timed control.

[@peterhicks]

Thank you sooo much, absolutely perfect 👍 So clear, so precise, no worries at this end at all now. 👍

[@dereton33]

You're very welcome!

[@martinwarner1178]

Always great tuition, thank you professor of plumbing. Peace be unto you.

[@dereton33]

Thanks martin.

[@stevek3036]

God Bless you Sir - the stat called for heat but no pump running or boiler so I manually pushed the override lever and Boom! pump and boiler runs. The micro switch was not latching - this is the third time I will be replacing the micro switch with the proper rated switch from RS Components - it might be due to sludge in the valve making it sticky but I have flushed my system twice over the years

[@dereton33]

Excellent! You may just have a sticky motor. Now might be the time to renew the complete valve.

[@komar80]

Thanks. I started unscrewing box and then something snapped and duddenly valve is closing and opening again. Hope is not temporary. But if problems apears again thanks to you i will know what to do. Your explanation is straight forward and English easy to understand. Thank you.

[@dereton33]

No problem.

[@paul_my_plumbs_uk]

Always a pleasure watching your videos Al 📺📺💯💯💯💯

[@dereton33]

Thanks Paul. All the best.

[@paul_my_plumbs_uk]

@@dereton33 🍻🍻🍻🍻

[@hakonsoreide]

Very useful, especially since all gas engineers are fully booked this time of year and now that I know how to check out the valve, I just have to wait for the system to cool down a bit. I'll probably have a closer look tomorrow.

[@dereton33]

Great.

[@alpachino468]

Amazing video. In my house I have 2 zones - one upstairs, and one downstairs. Downstairs only heats up if I tell it to, but upstairs now has started heating downstairs as well as upstairs. Trying to find the cause...

[@dereton33]

Jammed valve stuck on.

[@alpachino468]

@@dereton33 Oh I see. Is this a job for a plumber, or can anyone remedy this? If it is a plumber's job, any idea roughly what's involved and how much it'd cost?

[@davidcoleman6032]

Many thanks for this video, I have this problem so will investigate,thanks to your instruction I don't feel quite so perturbed.❤👍

[@dereton33]

You are welcome!

[@carouser]

Most helpful, thank you so much for this. Currently neck deep in all of this! Heating failed, but water and heating come on when set to manual. Based on your video and knowledge, I suspected the actuator has failed - more specifically, the motor has burnt out. So, going for the cheapest options first, I have opted for the syncromotor. The original appeared to be locked solid and there were some signs of burning/shorting from the exit side of the motor cables. One question I do have, however, is that you mention the valve itself should move freely... Hmm...mine appears a little tight but will move from 2 o'clock to 7 o'clock with some light pressure. Pilers helped with the persuasion but I could manipulate by finger and thumb. My concerns are that the valve my not be moving as freely as it should, which make have caused the synromotor failure. The new motor will move freely and spring back, but the old one was solid in the end. Could it be my valve has siezed which has caused the motor to burn out? Dreading this if so. I am able to plumb and deal with electrics accordingly but the set up is soooooooo poor with extremely limited access without specialist tools and removing heaps of stuff I really do not want to if I need to replace the entire valve and actuator assembly as one! Any advice you are able to offer, I'd welcome. Again, thank you so much, Scott

[@dereton33]

Hi Scott remove the motor and keep giving the valve body a turn with a small spanner until you can move it around with your fingers. Motor burn out is usually caused by the body section with the paddle seizing up as crud blocks it`s movement.

[@carouser]

@@dereton33 many thanks for the prompt response! I have just re-watched your video to try to glean how free the valve should be moving although would I be thinking that there might be a little more resistance with water inside the valve? I'm also about to watch your other 3 port motorised valve video too... So just a bit of an update from me. I can move the valve with my fingers (approximately 30 degrees which does feel like the full extent of its movement) but it doesn't appear to move as readily as the one you demonstrated in your video. That said, I did swap out the syncromotor with a new one and test the actuator with it it off the valve based on your advice. I did achieve some initial success as by calling the boiler for heat, everything powered up nicely and the motor and actuator moved correctly to engage the relays - something that didn't happen before which lead to my initial symptoms and a very cold house. Then all of a sudden there was a series of 'clicks' and I then realised that I had lost about 5 teeth from the end of the actuator 'arm'. Further inspection of the old syncromotor showed evidence of burn out. This makes me now wonder whether the valve has seized somewhat hence why the teeth have sheared off and the motor failed. As such, I have purchased an entire assembly but was going to attempt to replace the head only and see what happens, however I have concerns that even if not immediately the same thing is going to happen again in a very short time. I'm gutted as while I am proficient enough to be able to replace the entire assembly, I'll need to drain down the entire system and space is extremely limited for me to get the necessary tools in to deal with the 22m pipework and compression joints. Seems I may have to bite the bullet and get the professionals in... The other question I have is in what position should the valve be set should I decide to try simply replace the head? I'm am also worried that it might not be sent in the correct position and cause further problems before I've even started! I read that I should have set the old actuator to 'manual' prior to removing it so that everything aligned when I fixed the new one... Your videos and guidance are both brilliant. Thanks so much again, Scott

[@tombyrne777]

Nice One young man, you got me out of trouble with this video

[@dereton33]

Glad I could help

[@AnthonyFrancisJones]

Great - I have had problems with a number of zone valves where the tap itself has got a bit stiff and this has caused the place where the zone valve keys into it (invariably made of plastic) to 'round out' and not be a tight fit - then you get all sorts of intermittent problems. Probably down to hard water jamming up the actual tap valve. One to look out for!

[@dereton33]

Thanks for the info

[@hgd7]

This has saved me calling out a repair!

[@dereton33]

That`s great.

[@Razcfr]

Very helpful to understand how it works and very clear explanation, thank you!

[@dereton33]

You're very welcome!

[@Faz2113]

Just watched - confirmed what I suspected - great video, thank you.

[@dereton33]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@VanNessa-Blurton]

Thank you! Your videos are so helpful....this helped me find the issue with my system!! 👍

[@dereton33]

You're welcome!

[@paharnett]

Good video Al and the new camera is so sharp!!!

[@dereton33]

Thanks Paul.

[@itsrubes9779]

Thank you for this video, a real insight into the valve! 👌🏻🙌🏻

[@dereton33]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@passbysimon3095]

Thanks for uploading. My boiler is a Vaillant ecoTEC plus 624 system boiler. Heating works (can see the valve open) while hot water not. Turning to hot water, nothing happens. I manually open the valve, the boiler does not start.

[@dereton33]

The microswitch in the valve is broken.

[@stevetravers8195]

Thanks Al for the easy to follow video.

[@dereton33]

Glad it was helpful!

[@stuartlockwood9645]

Hi Al, and Jen, thanks for the video, one of my friends has a problem whith the 3way valve, I'll pass the details on , hoping your both ok , just heard were going into tier 3 from Monday, so I'll be looking for more diy jobs to do, even some plumbing,lol, keep the videos coming Al, it's the first place I look when I've a problem, cheers, stay safe , best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart.uk.

[@dereton33]

Thanks Stewart. All the best to you and your family. Keep safe.

[@patrickruttle3041]

Hiya, I have a similar issue,HW not coming on but rads working fine. Today I held the manual button on and it worked fine but won't work in auto. Can I assume it's the Detach valve that needs to be replaced. Thanks for the video, very informative.

[@dereton33]

Yes it is the 3 way valve.

[@bobandnen]

For the last 10 years or so, I have had issues with the Honeywell 3 Port Diverter valve, in that I have suddenly only had Hot Water and No Heating. On one or two occasions I replaced the top-plate of the diverter valve because the ball-valve swivel had become stiff, but on all other occasions I have replaced the Actuator Head to restore Central Heating. On one occasion more recently, I successfully replaced just the motor in the actuator head (which was a lot less expensive). However, last week I woke up to find that we had Central Heating upstairs only, and the downstairs radiators remaining cold. Naturally I feared that the circulation pump had finally failed after 25 years of loyal service; but as a first step, I removed the actuator head from the diverter valve to visually check that it was OK and that the ball-valve swivel worked freely. I re-assembled and switched on the boiler, but the same symptoms prevailed. Therefore, with the boiler still switched on and in Central Heating only mode, I checked the voltage on the circulation pump - ZERO!! - so the fault is somewhere else! With the supply to the burner disconnected (so that I could lift the control panel & it’s box of tricks out of the way) I removed the cover from the Diverter Valve Actuator Head, hoping to see how it worked when switching between C/H & H/W - it seemed to OK, but still no voltage at the circulation pump. With the intention of changing the Actuator Head yet again, I started to slacken the two screws securing the Actuator Head to the Valve Body, when I heard the Circulation Pump start, and yes! - 240 Volts at the pump!! Evidently the limit switch inside the actuator head was not being activated, but worked fine with the actuator head securing screws backed-off by about one turn. Leaving all as it now is, I put everything else back in place and reconnected the burner, and It’s now bee working normally for the past 6 days without the need to replace anything - just slacken 2 screws a bit! Long may it last!! Hope this might be of help to someone, but be VERY careful when working on the boiler with the power ON!! 19/02/23

[@dereton33]

Thanks for the tip.

[@borntodoit8744]

While whole post was abit complicated loved the final conclusion & suggestion

[@gazzcat4849]

Excellent video. I will definitely give this a go. Many thanks in advance.

[@dereton33]

Please do!

[@sman53]

Great video , I have 2x two way motorized vales with hot pipes either side but like warm water in taps ?

[@dereton33]

Open the valve to manual that feeds the flow into the cylinder if the water gets hot then the valve is broken.

[@DJ-qb1qh]

heya mate, these videos have been very helpful to me. i have an issue that you could probably solve. i have an eph controls v228p 2 port motorised valve zoning HW fron CH. This week the water was struggling to get hot(38 degrees after hours) CH working fine. i moved valve lever to make sure it was working and opened the balancing valve a bit. this seemed to solve it. The issue is now the HW is heating when the radiators should only be on. Its joined to an evohome system.

[@dereton33]

Turn the balancing valve back to where it was.

[@ro63rto]

No motorised valves in my old system. Old ideal e type 80n boiler. Pump not getting voltage for some reason 😢

[@dereton33]

Thermostat faulty not switching power.

[@christophermason7735]

Thanks. My valve is failing intermittently. Put a new one on 7 years ago. Fails about once a week always when I’m at work and my wife is freezing calling me in the office. Hoping it’s just the motor as it was only 4 months ago I had to drain it down and replace the water pump.

[@dereton33]

There are a constant pain.

[@BanditoUK]

Thanks for this. Really helped me fix my issue.

[@dereton33]

Great to hear!

[@dereton33]

Great to hear!

[@isaid5098]

Brilliantly explained, thank you for sharing 🙏

[@dereton33]

No problem.

[@johnfox6151]

I've changed a few heads on these valves in the last 30 or so years. It used to be the motor burning out that was the weakness but now it appears to be the mechanism that operates the microswitch. I suspect the geared drive has worn and jumped and the arm no longer touches the microswitch. The last one I replaced had done this and the same today on a valve head fitted less than three years ago. Is this a known weakness, otherwise known as built-in obsolescence?!

[@dereton33]

Could be John.

[@Toetagman]

If I set it to manual, will my thermostat be able to control how hot my floors get?

[@dereton33]

Yes.

[@Toetagman]

@@dereton33 so I don't need to change or repair the valve zone motor? I can just leave it on manual for the rest of winter?

[@markd8931]

Is it safe to leave the heating on with the lever left on manual? Thanks

[@johnanthony6214]

My heating wii not switch on until i turn the hot water on then its ok .i have to have both ontogether will this be the same fault brilliant video very much appreciated thanks If you take a photo of the wiring that will help to remember correct replacment

[@dereton33]

The fault will be the valve, a good idea taking a picture of the wiring before disconnecting.

[@lilyhoyer1351]

Hi, nice video. Thanks for sharing. I have a Schneider poptop two way valve installed on the inlet of the fan coil. I noticed that the lever moves freely when thermostat is not calling heat and both side of the valve is hot. This indicates the valve is open. I the motor broken? 2 days ago, the inlet to the fan coil was cold and air blowing out was cold when call heat. Called a contractor in, he purged the air out of the auto vent which was stuck. Then the expansion tank filled water from 1/3 to 2/3 of the tank, and I got heat. But after he left, I noticed the inlet pipe to the fan coil had been hot all the time. So was wondering if the valve got damaged during the air purge. Or would it be possible the pipe diverter was broken? BTW, This is a new valve installed 2W ago.

[@dereton33]

Could be the diverter broken. The valve lever should be stiff and closed when the stat is not calling for heat. The valve may well have got damaged. Take the head off the valve and see if the motor turns when calling for heat.

[@lewisbrooke393]

Should the motorised valve be “returning” when both central heating and hot water are turned off? It only seems to return when I turn the power off.

[@dereton33]

Yes they should.

[@jahidk123]

Thanks, saved me a massive headache

[@dereton33]

No problem.

[@amyjuniper5917]

Hi Derek I have home emergency cover and this happens to me every year. The heating engineer just changes the 3 port valve but I wondered what the underlying cause could be? They never change the brass valve and wondered if this could be making the 3 port valve fail each year?

[@dereton33]

You have hit it on the nail. Make sure they change the complete valve when they come next time if you can.

[@amyjuniper5917]

Thanks Derek. The heating engineer came today and changed the whole thing. The old brass valve was filled with brown sludge inside. Thanks for your reply and Happy Christmas.

[@chrisball3634]

Hi Al...you use to be able to buy just the ball and oparating arm on the mounting plate at a fraction of the cost of a new complete valve assy...do you know if and where you can buy them..great video..thanks.

[@dereton33]

I would think best to check with the manufacturer.

[@tonytony6031]

Just to add that I have a tempest solar system with two 2 way valves. One is tempest the other Drayton. When turning on the water the boiler does not come on unless I move the arm on the 2 way valve to manual, however the spring does not allow me to place the arm in the little groove. On having both central heating and water switched on, the central heating is fine, any thoughts please

[@dereton33]

One motorised valve microswitch not working.

[@SuporexTV]

so I have 2 zones. ground floor and first floor both controlled by thermostat. Heating is constantly on and when temp is not the desired one it will send signal and boiler kicks in and starts heating the zone it needs. First floor heating stopped working and I did move this lever to manual and it was giving proper resistance when moving. Now the first floor heating works when ground floor heating kicks in. Now my question is: Is it still faulty valve? why boiler does not start? I can't find diagram that would tell me what is giving signal to start what, I thought thermostat -> control unit -> boiler -> valve. but no idea...

[@dereton33]

Once you have two zones the wiring starts to get complicated. You upstairs zone valve is faulty and although you have set it to manual will not kick in until the downstairs valve calls for heat.

[@SuporexTV]

@@dereton33 thank you

[@SuporexTV]

@@dereton33 so i got new valve and replaced. Straight forward as honeywell as well, same wires. But boiler does not start still. Dont know what to do now.

[@TonyFromarty]

I have a Banico ZVD 3 way, port A goes to heating and port B to the hot water cylinder. Wiring is Neutral to blue, earth to green/yellow and live to white. In this configuration it appears the valve is always powered on which doesnt seem right? The configuration I think I need is normally powered off so port A is default, and power on to activate port B while hot water cylinder is being heated. Any idea how this can be done?

[@dereton33]

Sorry no, you will need a sparks to sort that one out.

[@telsauk]

When I move the valve after the head is off a tiny amount of water comes out. Does that mean the valve is faulty?

[@dereton33]

Yes replace it .

[@00Highlanda00]

Very informative video, thank you so much, one question. How do i know if i have a 2 or 3 port valve actuator. I have printed on my old one honeywell f5 9308? Thanks in advance Mick

[@dereton33]

The two port has two pipes going into it , the three port has three pipes going into it.

[@graemerobertson5160]

If the 3 port valve has wear or crud blockage , could it result in some hot water for rads leaking into the hot water pipe and heating the water in the immersion cylinder?

[@dereton33]

Yes could do.

[@trampc9826]

Can I ask a question please - Now I set the valve to the manual mode and set the heating temperature at 45C. I only turn the heating on for 10h a day. Will there be any concerns or I better get the valve replaced asap? Much obliged👍

[@dereton33]

No, it is just that the hot water will also be on.

[@trampc9826]

@@dereton33 Thanks. Then I'll live with that

[@chantalubaka6696]

Mine is making a whirring sound, the heating will not turn off unless I turn off the radiators. Please advise

[@dereton33]

Motorised valve jammed on full heat.

[@chantalubaka6696]

@ do you have a video of how to fix it please and thank you

[@zoemitchell9666]

I had one of these whole motors fitted today as I’ve had hot water but no heating for the past two weeks, finally got heating today for about an hour then it decided it was going to stop working again. Bit confused about what to try next. Only had this problem since my new programmer got put in so all I can think it’s something to do with that?

[@dereton33]

Have the wiring looked at.

[@katieball7522]

Hi, I have put a new Danfos on but the boiler still doesn’t fire up, so I did what you said I took the Danfos on and the lever moves slowly, so it’s obviously the screw that works it, but it’s not sticky it’s quite loose, do I need to buy one or can they be cleaned etc.

[@dereton33]

You will need a complete unit with the body as well as the old unit is sticking or broken.

[@katieball7522]

@@dereton33 thank you so much, I’m a women but I like to give things a go and you have explained it so well I think I will be okay, the pressure is just over 1 bar and the hot water is fine, the silver lever in the DANFOS moves when it’s turned on and off but once connected to that screw you can hear it doesn’t move, but when you turn the boiler off it moves?

[@byronhall5145]

When that lever is moved over and the heating comes on, do you have to move the leaver back over again to turn the heating off again?

[@dereton33]

No .

[@byronhall5145]

@dereton33 cheers, it didn't work for me anyway. The heating didn't come on and the boiler didn't come on. It's strange as the boiler comes on to heat the hot water and the boiler pressure is reading 1.5bar so haven't got a clue why the heating isn't working.

[@ellengillies393]

Do you find alot of problems with the motorized valves. Have bought 3 of them and they all seem faulty before even fitting them!

[@dereton33]

They are a constant problem.

[@charliejeffers9778]

Thanks for the tips When I put the heating on it works fine but won’t switch off, Well I mean the pump won’t stop, do you think it’s a bad motorised valve ?

[@dereton33]

Certainly.

[@markcampbell9584]

After locking the valve switch in manual position, my valve comes out of manual mode by itself after about 15 mins? Can the boiler or timer cancel the manual mode by sending a signal? Or is the valve just closing itself

[@dereton33]

It is just closing itself, wedge a matchstick in it.

[@benlupton1457]

Thank you so much for making these videos! Quick question if you don’t mind… my heating downstairs has stopped working, but heating upstairs and hot water throughout the house is fine. I have a combi boiler and two of these 2 way motorised valves in my airing cupboard - one of the valves (upstairs I assume) feels warm to touch as it’s been running for the heating this morning, the other (downstairs?) is stone cold. What would you suggest in this case?

[@dereton33]

The motorised valve is broken. Switch it to manual for now until you get a replacement.

[@benlupton1457]

Thanks for the reply. Is switching it to manual ok to do with a combi boiler? Did try this last night but the heating downstairs still didn’t kick in

[@savilledarren]

Hi my central heating is coming on but my water is not heating up when i put it on .is this a valve problem to. Thanks

[@dereton33]

Sure is.

[@steomalley-w5g]

Hi mate. I have this valve and radiators come on when only hot water is on. If I lower the switch it goes back to the top when I turn hot water on. Switch does nothing when I turn just heating on. Any ideas?

[@dereton33]

New motorised valve required.

[@cptmainwaring]

At 2.50 you say what if the lever is floppy and you dont say more about it, If yje lever is floppy is it likely to be a burnt out motor?

[@dereton33]

Yes, flopy is not good.

[@neiloliver7950]

Changed my three way valve but problem persists. Here it is… if the heating is already on, then when the hot water is commanded the hot water does not come on. But if I turn the heating off and then turn the water on, the value moves and the water gets hot.

[@dereton33]

Check the microswitch on the valve . Also the hot tank thermostat.

[@davidrother6972]

I have the same Honeywell diverter valve and set it to Manual and it worked (for about 20 minutes. After that the radiators went cold again. Aside from this, is there something I should also be doing or is the valve faulty. I recently moved into my house and the heating had been off. What are the red taps? I have three and one is directly above the '1,2,3" pump which is connected to the diverter valve. Any help is appreciated.

[@dereton33]

Dont touch any of the red taps. Your diverter valve is faulty and will need renewing.

[@davidrother6972]

Thank you

[@rahaldewan4803]

Hi, my heating and hot water is controlled through Heatmiser thermostats. When I turn on heating, I can hear the motor opening etc, but is the lever at the top supposed to move across physically to manual or does it remain in auto and just a motorised sound comes through? Help will be appreciated. To confirm, both are working fine but just want to know what visual is supposed to look like.

[@dereton33]

It just remains in auto. You know it's working because the leaver is free to move in it's open position.

[@mattgreen5351]

Hey Al, thanks for the great videos. If I put the actuator in manual position and that does not cause the boiler and pump to start, is it likely a problem with the microswitches instead of the motor? My symptoms are hot water working but suddenly no heating. The valve is open in the manual position because if I put hot water demand on by turning up the cylinder stat, the boiler and pump start up and water flows to the rads. However, even though there is heating demand, as soon as hot water is satisfied, the boiler and pump stop.

[@dereton33]

Yes microswitch in the valve.

[@209porker]

Do you ever see any problems with the microswitches in valve head? I have a new head to go on my system (S plan so a 2 way honeywell valve) and am hoping that is the issue. Standard F+E system and the boiler cycles with the heating but heat never gets to the rads (HW no problem). I am guessing it is a valve issue. Also hoping its the head as I don't fancy changing the valve body. Had a problem with the HW about 12 months ago and it was the head in that case.

[@dereton33]

Very rare to get a microswitch problem. How ever that is why changing the head is better than just changing the motor.

[@209porker]

@@dereton33 - Thanks. Great videos.

[@jdh3515]

My myson power extra 2 port valve works 1st off then shortly after the heating stops then I have to push the side over to make the boiler fire up?

[@dereton33]

Micro switch in the valve is broken.

[@jdh3515]

@@dereton33 I’ll put a new head on it, cheers

[@davidgillyon5863]

I used this video to fit a new valve in December 2022 and it was a huge help, but now it appears to have failed because there is no resistance in the spring, and the heating is not coming on as regularly as it should.A few days ago I used a peg to hold the lever in the manual position but it has not done much good. The valve I purchased was from Amazon and is a 'Team Controls' valve and cost about £31.00. Despite messaging them they have not responded. Do you think I have bought too cheap? I am trying to get a refund through my credit card company. Can you recommend a replacement please that is 'mid range' regarding cost?

[@dereton33]

Still best to stick with a Honewell the same make as your valve. Those remake models all come from China.

[@showingthelies8296]

What about no heating and the boilers pump not running neither. Programmers on for heating and theromstat turned up/

[@dereton33]

Faulty pump, or the motorised valve micro switch broken which means the pump will not turn on.

[@showingthelies8296]

@@dereton33 Pump runs for hot water on 3 port mid position valve. I expect the 3 port is at fault. I'll let you know.

[@KevinPashley]

Brilliant video!

[@dereton33]

Many thanks!

[@KevinPashley]

@@dereton33 Hi - just one quick question. When I slide the manual lever over on the valve it has no resistance - is that ok?

[@davelinkson1]

Good vid Al, I have the 3 way valve, which is about 12 years old. I've been having a problem with the heating not coming on when timer comes on but hot water comes on, which when I turn off the heating heats up, it's intermittent, being that sometimes it all comes on and heats up or only one or the other heats up, so am having to manage it. Would this be a fault with the motor electronics, I've taken the motor off and checked the spindle and that's nice and free.. I'm also wondering if a very old mechanical room thermostat can cause the problem, it doesn't seem all that accurate with the clicking on and off, but will be replacing that anyway with a digital stat soon. Thanks Dave.

[@dereton33]

Yes Dave replace the valve head.

[@schoolprint]

Hi, we have the ST9400C next to the boiler and in our house the CM927 thermostat. The water heating seems to work fine … the heating this year we are having a slight issue. The heating comes on at the right time and the radiators all warm up - but when the thermostat reaches the correct temperature the radiators do not switch off. I have checked the pairing between the CM927 and the little box (HC60NG Relay Box) on the wall beneath the ST9400C and they seem to be paired OK. The flame does go off of the main thermostat (CM927) when the heat reaches the desired temperature and also the green light on the small unit goes off (HC60NG Relay Box) . But the radiators seem to just stay on … where as before the radiators used to switch off at the desired heat. Also when the rooms reach the desired temperature - the boiler just stays on. Do you think there may be an issue with the Honeywell Home V4043H 1056 zone valve, we seem to have 2 of them. We can use it as it is - just turning on and off by the boiler as and when - but would ideally like the thermostat to work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[@dereton33]

The micro switch is gone in the heating zone valve.

[@schoolprint]

@@dereton33 OK Thank you - is this replaceable ? Do you have a link to the product ?

[@damianainscough]

Can I temporarily remove the valve motor and manually open the valve and leave it so that heating is always on?

[@damianainscough]

Pipe above the valve is hot and that below is a tiny bit warm. Radiators are cold. Valve lever is fully loose. It's a hot water or hot water and radiators only system. Thank you anyone!

[@dereton33]

Yes take the motor off and leave the valve in the open position.

[@andrewpanrucker]

I've got a two way valve that's playing up sometimes it's working and sometimes it's not. Could it be it just need some WD-40?

[@dereton33]

No a new head motor.

[@dannywooly1]

Is it possible for the valve arm to still move properly when disconnected but electrically the motor is dead?

[@dereton33]

Yes.

[@dannywooly1]

@@dereton33 thanks my heating engineer just ripped it out it’s all working now but got a hefty £142 for his 15 mins of labour 😆

[@mohammedtahir2349]

Hi I've got a question Al I've had a Worcester Bosch combi boiler fitted three days ago and my flue pipe is dripping lots of water on the outside floor is this normal thanks

[@dereton33]

Yes it is the condensation due to the cold damp air.

[@AndrewHubbardBadger]

Please help, the lever on mine is stuck and will not allow me to put it into manual mode. I’m getting loads of hot water and no central heating. Thanks so much for the video and a swift reply would be very gratefully received :) my dad is 90 years old

[@dereton33]

It may not be a Honeywell model. Not all of them pull back to manual. The motor may also be burnt out in hot water only mode. Do though try giving the lever a hard pull perhaps with gloves or something pushed over the lever, also a light tap with a hammer, you have nothing to loose.

[@AndrewHubbardBadger]

@@dereton33 thank you for your reply, It says Honeywell on the side, but it only has a T junction connected to it. One pipe goes into the hot water tank. Another pipe goes from or returns from the pump. And the third pipe disappears into the floor and has a vent on it

[@davidlaverty7234]

How would I know if I have a 3 way valve?

[@dereton33]

It would be in your airing cupboard and only found on F and E systems.

[@davidlaverty7234]

@@dereton33 OK, I don't have one then. What could my problem be? Heating works upstairs but not downstairs. Brand new circulation pump fitted. Radiators bled. Can hear gargling from pipes at times. Many thanks

[@georgeforde3662]

Hi, I replaced the motorised valve with a new one as it was clicking and not staying on. It worked at first. However it stopped working. I took it off to take a look and now it seems that the little lever is not moving the switch/spring on the inside. It seems like i broke this new part :-( Any idea what i did wrong? Would the best thing to do be the buy another one and attempt it again? Thanks👍

[@dereton33]

Hi George, I would buy the complete valve as the body, is sticking maybe on some sludge and causing the motor to burn out.

[@georgeforde3662]

Thanks for your advice. 👍👍👍👍

[@daveymilitariaandvintageto6937]

My 3 port honeywell valve hums even when the hot water and heating is not required. Is this normal? Its not loud. Thanks in advance..

[@dereton33]

No, the motor must be overheating.

[@daveymilitariaandvintageto6937]

Thank you, I'll get it changed before it becomes a bigger problem..

[@chrise7058]

Hi, I have the opposite issue. The heating stays on when the thermostat turned well down and the timer switches set to OFF. Is this likely to be a valve issue or a faulty timer?

[@dereton33]

If the timer is set to off I would check that first.

[@gill834]

very informative,thanks Al

[@dereton33]

Cheers

[@chrisfinn1162]

Thanks for sharing. 👍

[@dereton33]

No problem.

[@TheClembo]

I have had this valve malfunction twice on me in the past having to call out an engineer. It has been fixed on both occasions but I wonder what the engineer actually did to get it working again. I've switched on and off and on again at the controller with no luck, so does the valve just stick or the motor not function? I'm interested to find out to save calling an engineer and wait for his arrival if I can rectify the situation myself. They do seem prone to malfunctioning! Cheers.

[@dereton33]

He probably took the motor off to check it was working then turned the valve head with a spanner to loosen it few times, it as it has more than likely been sticking. Usually after the summer.when the heating as not been on.

[@mda5003]

In my old house I remember having to turn the valve with a pair of plyers to get hot water to the taps - it was virtually seized solid and the motorised plastic insert had broken so no longer worked, well it was really old anyway. The problem then though was the valve then dribbled only stopping when the water going through got hot and I'd turned it back off again. Happy days......

[@ImedFerjani-v4p]

Thank you you are a live saver

[@dereton33]

No problem 😊

[@tonytony6031]

Hi if you could help I would be very grateful. I have a telford copper cylinder 2 way valve 230v art 60521623. When buying a new 2 way valve i noticed the back plate fitting is different with the turning valve not able to fit. Do you know of any like for like replacements please.

[@dereton33]

No it would be best to renew with a complete valve, I know you will have to drain the system to fit it. Getting the correct head for that model will be difficult.

[@tonytony6031]

@@dereton33 Thank you, first which 2 way valve do you recommend? Honeywell? Second, do you have a video on how to drain the system, I do notice further down from the valve at the bottom of the pipe a nozzle for a small hose and small square turning screw, I presume this is for draining, does it drain the whole system including radiators?

[@tonytony6031]

Just to add that I took a chance and bought the motorised part, when fitting it was quite easy to do, and now the hot water comes on without me having to turn the 2 way valve to manual. Thank you very much for the response. Not having to drain the system down was a blessing

[@Ian-zb3rp]

Very useful mate ta 👍

[@dereton33]

Thanks 👍

[@mrskinflint99]

Hi - I just replaced my Banico valve about 4 weeks ago. The heating worked perfectly but the push connector has now come apart and doesn’t want to stay together. Very strange ! Have you come across this previously ? Many thanks for your videos. Much appreciated 👍😉

[@dereton33]

No, sorry. All the best though Paul.

[@ediijay9897]

Very helpful. Thanks.

[@dereton33]

You're welcome!

[@RK-ww6ee]

Thanks

[@dereton33]

No problem

[@TCSC47]

Good one! Thanks!

[@dereton33]

You're welcome!

[@An.Individual]

is "mid position valve" the correct name?

[@dereton33]

Yes. But I call them !!!!!!

[@anthonyhardman9121]

hi al, i have a y plan system and every-time i tur the heating on, downstairs in the front room theres a very noticeable clicking /tapping noise in the wall where im guessing my copper pipes are going to the rads. is there anything that you could suggest to stop the noises from happening, TIA 👍👍

[@anthonyhardman9121]

turn*

[@dereton33]

The pipes are more than likely expanding on the joists or touching floorboards. You can lift the boards, cut larger noggins and lag the pipes.

[@RailsandSky]

I'm sure you realize that you are showing close up items out of focus. You need to hold them back a little from the lens.

[@dereton33]

That's me told.

[@jonnysegway7866]

You never explained what a loose lever would mean 😢

[@dereton33]

Sorry about that it means the valve head is broken.

[@Endpoint101]

Thanks for the video; I recorded me changing my valve & it's been working great ever since! kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJXGdqyQq8maqs0

[@dereton33]

Good stuff. Thanks.