Descaling Internal Corrosion to Reveal the Hull Damage Ep 03

[@SavingBlueSteel]

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[@ianlangley987]

My advice would be to remove the tanks totalyn and get them out of the way. You need to have acess to the whole of the hull bottom to do you cleaning and thickness testing/repairs. I also think the tanks are passed their use by dates. Cheers and good luck. Ian

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Good tip!

[@ianelwell8000]

Glad she’s getting some love, it’ll be a labour of love for sure, Milford skyline will look strange without her when she’s eventually launched!

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Yes indeed - it will be strange to not see her from the top road, but hopefully she'll look proud once again when in the marina.

[@janw8964]

I was actually relieved to see that the electric installation does look tidy and not even too bad - apart from that broken dc-dc converter of course. Thanks for that episode and please keep them coming! 😊

[@SavingBlueSteel]

There are lots of positives with the boat that we will share in future episodes. The electrical/electronic system is one of them. Thanks for watching ❤.

[@jameslandi4688]

There are reliable flexible bag tanks made to replace metal tanks. I have two 25 gallon flexible tanks that I purchased in 1996 for my old power boat. They expand and conform to the space provided. They're very durable. The boat lives in Maine, and I use non toxic antifreeze in them every winter .

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Thank you - that’s another great idea.

[@paulwalker9423]

Great video been looking forward to it , such a shame you cannot get the boat home to work on save all the travelling 😊

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Tell me about it

[@mikebrunner1577]

I sure would not mind longer videos. Really enjoy the progress.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Hi - we've been discussing this. We weren't sure if people would enjoy longer videos. We'll make the next one longer as we try to get into the habit of doing more videoing. Thanks for watching 👍

[@rossdixon1646]

Cut up the tanks and get rid of them. Replace with smaller removable plastic tanks once the hull is repaired

[@SavingBlueSteel]

We're warming to that idea 👍

[@martinwarmerdam1746]

Wow what a work, but I love the Valk😊 I Will follow your work💪

[@philipdevonald1273]

You have taken on a massive project, something I would not dream of. But good luck and keep up with the content.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Thanks, will do!

[@davidlyon2690]

the item you cannot identify is a float switch, it might feed a gauge or just a a light to tell you the tank is full

[@johnfeeney4636]

From what we can see the electrical cabling looks in pretty good shape. I doubt it needs much rewiring, perhaps the cables that were left submerged. PVC insulation is very tough. Ps the Duvac II (Sure Power) unit is essentially a potential divider that provides isolation between the 2 12v outputs. It has smoothing electronics (your expoded capacitor) that deal with EMF spikes. Had a quick look online and you can get one for $65. They are discontinued but there are obviously some still around. You can also get a direct replacement if needed.

[@carllockpick6179]

Can you not put, smaller plastic water tanks in, instead ?

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Thank you - that’s a really good idea - we’ll give that some thought.

[@garyphillips7993]

Came here to say the same. Cut those old tanks up while in place & replace them. It’d give you piece of mind as well as getting round a couple of big problems 😉

[@StephenPenney-e5x]

I’d really really hate to give you more work….honest ! But if you find the hull is a bit thin in that area around the tanks. Wouldn’t it just be simpler to just cut a hole in the hull, remove both tanks. Stand on the ground outside to renovate the whole of that internal area, then replace the hole with new steel sheet. Then flexible plastic bladder tanks for grey and fresh water ?

[@stevethompson6867]

i have a steel boat and was put onto a Tercoo blaster for rust removal. It is a rubber disc with tungsten carbide teeth that you put into a drill. They come in singles doubles or triples. They scrape away the rust and are much quicker than the needling and leave a bright surface that can be primed. The yard that showed me this say at least five years with no return of rust if 3 coats of 2 pack undercoat are painted on very soon after the rust removal

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Thank you for the tip - I’ll give one of those a try 👍

[@DarylSaunders737]

I reckon you might be better off cutting some strategic holes along the hull at its weakest points to remove and repair the services and rust....🤔👍Good luck mate !!!...👍

[@SavingBlueSteel]

We’re hoping some of the corroded areas (which will need to be cut out) might provided some strategic access to difficult areas 👍

[@lendevries7687]

I like your adventure😊

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Thank you. 👍

[@hardwaydave6636]

That Capacitor looks like it took a lightening strike. the 24 to 12V inverter your looking at is very common and shouldn't be hard to replace. your output at 12V is 30 amps. not to bad, again depends on what your going to do with it. In todays age of electronics LED lighting and inductive cook tops along with a host of everyday appliances are offered in 12V. That invertor would most likely handle the entire boat for interior lighting if you rework everything into LEDs (Not the exterior lighting spot lights and whatever else you are going to use). From what we've seen since you started I would think 80 to 90 percent of the electrical will need to be rewired. Just my guess. Good luck! and we'll be watching as you move forward with your revival!

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Thank you for the advice, and for watching 👍

[@DanielJonesParamotor]

Almost ready for a boat party

[@SavingBlueSteel]

@@DanielJonesParamotor Now there’s a plan!

[@lilianecasner3336]

If it were me I would cut the bottom of the hull from the out side more or less the full lenght and replate the I've seen it done before, what you are doing you will never get to everything, I can see it's to thin your fighting against it, working from the outside is far better and more straight forward,I wish you well.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Indeed - we are leaning towards cutting out mercilessly, but we want to inspect as much of the steelwork as possible first before we make any irreversible decisions.

[@mechanick1000]

i know you want to clean under the tanks but everything you need to do to the hull can be done on the outside

[@MrCrabbing]

I have three 24v to 12v droppers on my boat one of them just does the VHF radio, the other two do car radio some other 12 volt stuff I have.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Do you know what amperage each is rated at?

[@ГайсинАбдулла]

Желаю вам удачи в восстановлении

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Thank you

[@williamestep4103]

Absolutely, cut the tanks up and get something better and to your dimensions and the time and money you save in the lonnnggg run.

[@GlenJS]

For your information the vacuum is called both a shop vac and a wet and dry vac in the states. I was wondering how you were going to get the rust off and then you showed that you have a descaling tool (needle gun). Maces it a lot easier. There is also another tool that fits in the hand and has three pistons that is used for heavier scale or rust. It works quicker and makes more noise also. Still well worth its cost. Is that tank a grey water or is it a CHT holding tank? From what you showed it looks more like a CHT tank.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Hi. Thanks for the advice. It's listed on the plans as a grey water tank. I think if you switch over a couple of valves it is possible to re-route black waste to it so could be used as a CHT tank. Currently all grey water goes directly into it. The galley sink is the only grey water that can go either into the tank or directly overboard. I think we will look into the virtues of having a separate black water tank as we're considering all new plastics tanks.

[@Oneonetwotwos]

Victron Orion IP67 24/12-100 (1200W) plenty of capacity and a good IP rating

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Thanks for the tip 👍

[@kevinmartin3859]

Good luck

[@robertparrish5542]

if you cant go top side with it the go out the bottom it will weld back and looks like your going to have to replace metal anyway on the hull, better to do it right the first time , than spend more time and double the money if you have to redo it mate

[@SavingBlueSteel]

@@robertparrish5542 We will be doing this on all areas we can’t access from inside - thanks for the tip 👍🙏🏻

[@GeorgeWMays]

Absolutely super. I love your channel. illegitimi non carborundum (don't let the bastards grind you down).

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Semper in excremento sumus, solum altitudo variat. (Always in the sh^t, only the depth varies. 😉) - thanks for following.

[@richardgabel33]

I was first to post today but it is not showing in the comments. Early comment started with letting you know about the laser device sold on Amazon that welds, cuts, and strips/cleans surfaces and does a great job. I asked if that was not in the budget as the time it will save might shorten this project to the point you will live long enough to enjoy your boat. I also stated patch hull holes with larger plates to avoid patchwork of using small pieces. As stated in an earlier video, this is not a small project and progress is so slow you might not live long enough to take it into open waters. You need to bring on a reasonable group to assist. Have fun and stay safe.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

We intend to live forever, or die trying! Indeed - the advice of cutting out bigger panels is advice we've heard before. Thanks for your input even though the original seems to have vanished.

[@richardgabel33]

I can speak from experience. If you don’t have help, the overall project gets daunting quickly. If you don’t explore the laser, you will be wasting a lot of time with results far inferior. Larger patch panels should be a given if you have done any restorations in the past. Keep in mind your weld points should be as thick as possible. Also if you have interior tanks that need removed cut away the hull and repair using new steel. You won’t be disappointed in the results. Have fun as time is passing. Stay safe.

[@johnwilkinson4399]

I don’t get it. From the little I see the hull is breached in numerous areas, the rudder is corroded away. The there is propulsion, electronics and corrosion topside. Good luck.

[@yorkieboy239]

Hi morning pal you could do with the other 😎10 men that probably share your dream have the same issues , all share the massive list of jobs that need doing and at least you would get the forgotten beauty on the wave yes you would have to share her but imagine the speed she would be brought back

[@easydriver100]

Hi i am from the netherlands my advice cuth both thanks your work better that way then You can repair the hull then put rust converter from ranex they are also on KZbin after that you can paint the inside the hull when finishte put plactic thanks inside good luck de whit your boat

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Cool, thanks

[@Chr.U.Cas1622]

Dear SBS couple I would really like to watch the restoration of a steel yacht. But this vessel seems too far gone already. Please kindly allow me to suggest something: This long term and in the end expensive project is not suitable for you. Simply because of the fact, that you two are old already. Therefore the most reasonable thing to do would be: Gutt the boat completely out and sell as much as you can. Then sell the hull metal to a scrapyard. 2) Why still having this way too loud and therefore annoying and distracting "music"? Please turn down the volume and use it as a background music (if any). Best regards, luck, health and wisdom.

[@felixfeleus510]

Why you didn't put your vacuumcleaner on the floor when emptying the grey water tank? When pumping liquids you should always keep height difference as minimal as possible in order to have maximum suction power available. And besides you should have kept the rubbish away from your galley.

[@johnacky]

I love a project, but that is very far gone. Good luck, some task ahead

[@aldertjeful]

Get rid of the steel tanks, and use blatters, you can get them in various sizes 😅 even for fuel i believe, but I'm not quite sure of that.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Yes, we're warming to the idea of swapping the tanks for plastic ones.

[@barrymunro9932]

cut tanks up renew with flexie plastic baz

[@SavingBlueSteel]

We're looking into this now - thanks for the tip

[@tomedian]

..ok 3 episodes in...no shame in cutting your losses and find a more suitable project..most would concur. Gluck.

[@evilla7579]

The lower hull plates are too thin. Cut the bottom hole plates next to the centerline, probably over the whole length of the ship and replate. That is the only way to do it right. Or else you will be patching for decades.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

We are quite likely to do as you recommend, but first we wanted to clean and inspect as much of the hull as possible before we make a final and irreversible decision.

[@steveward60]

Cut those old rusty tanks and pipes and get new plastic ones for health reasons

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Check out the next video 😉

[@margauxfelix]

il faut découper ces réservoirs et les remplacer par des réservoirs plastique

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Merci, c'est une bonne idée.

[@RachaelSA]

That little orange welding machine is not really going to work for this project, I had one and its air cooled and overheats and shuts off. You should invest in a good welding machine and probably a plasma cutter to make life easier.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Yes, that’s my small portable stick unit that I actually quite like. I’ve got a larger MIG set too.

[@seanellis1324]

I love your optimism, but please don't try and salvage those galvanised tanks. Take the floor up, get them out, and replace them with lightweight plastic. Are you sure it's a grey water tank? If you were emptying the vac into the sink, surely it would've just refilled a grey water tank. I think that float switch being at the bottom of the tank would've been a low-level alarm, which makes me think it's not a grey water tank. Good luck, I think you're gonna need it.

[@SavingBlueSteel]

Thank you for your advice. The tanks are stainless steel but I think your advice regarding cutting them out is good. The water from the sink can go into the tank or overboard depending on how you position the tap. The transducer turned out to be the high level alarm which also triggered automatic emptying if at sea. Thanks for watching 👍

[@roystone9932]

Sorry mate but this boat is a mess . How about completely stripping her out top to bottom , chuck everything in skips and start again .

[@marcellebaudry5786]

miseria

[@jakeoreilly9627]

if you got that kind of money buy something thats seaworthy your wasting time on that derelict

[@scottsorby7966]

personally Id cut those tanks up and get them out, possibly to replaced with a bolt together polymer tank you found one leak in that tank guaranteed its not going to be the only one and you're gonna be playing whack a mole with the welder